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INDIANA HISTORICAL COLLECTIONS 

INDIANA AS SEEN BY 
EARLY TRAVELERS 



A Collection of Reprints from Books of 

Travel, Letters and Diaries 

Prior to 1 830 



SELECTED AND EDITED BY 

HARLOW LINDLEY 

Director Department of Indiana History and Archives 

Indiana State Library 

Secretary Indiana Historical Commission 



□ 



PUBLISHED BY THE 

INDIANA HISTORICAL COMMISSION 

INDIANAPOLIS 

1916 



1.3S37 



Copyright Nineteen Hundred and Sixteen 
by The Indiana Historical Commission 



FEB -5 1917 

©CI.A4 575328 



Indiana Historical Collections 



INTRODUCTION 

Many of the first books relating to Indiana were written by 
travelers whose aim was to tell the Old World what the New World 
was like. During the first half century following the Revolutionary 
War many travelers came from Europe to visit the New Republic 
and to explore the frontiers of America, and during the early de- 
cades of the nineteenth century many travelers from the Atlantic 
Coast states made trips into the interior to learn of the possibili- 
ties in the newer regions. 

After a lapse of a century these descriptions are of much in- 
terest from an historical point of view. Personal estimates of the 
region vary and opinions were obviously warped in many cases 
but these descriptions reflect conditions about which we could 
today secure information in no other way. These books are now 
out of print and are not available for most people. Because of 
the growing demand for this material it has been deemed wise to 
issue a volume reprinting the material which concerns Indiana pre- 
vious to 1830, in as near the original form as possible. Spelling, 
punctuation and capitalization have been followed. In some in- 
stances repetitions will be noticed, but it seemed best in most cases 
to give the full account as originally prepared by the author. 
Practically all of David Thomas' Travels through the Western 
Country in the Summer of 1816, with his additional notices, has been 
reprinted, since this Diary was written just one hundred years ago, 
portraying conditions here just as Indiana became a State, and 
also because of the particular value of this individual journal. 

The object of this volume has been to make available to the 
people of the State and others interested in Indiana history, ma- 
terial which could not be procured easily otherwise. The original 
editions can be found in the Indiana State Library. 

Included in the volume are four contributions which never before 
have appeared in print — the Journal of Thomas Scattergood 
Teas, Letters of William Pelham, Personal Reminiscences of 
Charles F. Coffin, and Diary and Recollections of Victor Colin 
Duclos. The Pelham letters have been made possible by Miss 

(3) 



4 Introduction. 

Caroline Creese Pelham, of New Harmony, Indiana, a great grand- 
daughter of William Pelham. 

The Editor wishes to acknowledge the assistance given him by- 
Miss Esther U. McNitt, Dr. John W. Oliver and Mr. Henry S. 
Miller, of the Department of Indiana History and Archives, 
Indiana State Library, and Dr. Walter C. Woodward, Director 
of the Indiana Historical Commission. 

Harlow Lindley. 
Earlham College, 
October 9, 1916. 



CONTENTS 



Page 

Introduction 3 

Hutchins, Thomas A Topographical Description of Virginia, 

Pennsylvania and North Carolina, 1778 . 7 

Imlay, George A Topographical Description of the West- 
tern Territory of North America, 1793 . 9 

Volney, C. F A View of the Soil and Climate of the 

United States of America, 1804 17 

Ashe, Thomas Travels in America Performed in 1806. . . 25 

Melish, John Travels in the United States of America, 

in the Years 1806, and 1807, and 1809, 
1810, and 1811.. 29 

Bradbury, John Travels in the Interior of America in the 

Years 1809, 1810, and 1811 35 

Cutler, Jervasse A Topographical Description of the In- 
diana Territory, 1812 37 

Thomas, David Travels Through the Western Country 

in the Summer of 1816 42 

Brown, Samuel R The Western Gazetteer, or Emigrant's 

Directory, 1817 136 

Birkbeck, Morris Notes on a Journey in America from the 

Coast of Virginia to the Territory of 
Illinois, 1817 171 

Darby, William The Emigrant's Guide to the Western and 

Southwestern States and Territories, 
1818 191 

Dana, E Geographical Sketches on the Western 

Country Designed for Emigrants and 
Settlers, 1819 197 

Warden, D. B A Statistical, Political and Historical 

Account of North America, 1819 216 

Mason, Richard Lee Narrative of Richard Lee Mason in the 

Pioneer West, 1819 235 

Indiana Gazette, Corydon.. Letters of February 16, 1819 and Novem- 
ber 24, 1819 239 

Mackenzie, E An Historical, Topographical, and De- 
scriptive View of the United States of 
America, 1820 244 

Teas, Thomas S Journal of a Tour to Fort Wayne and the 

Adjacent Country in the Year 1821 .... 246 

Forster, William Journal of William Forster, 1821-1822. . . 250 

M elish, John A Geographical Description of the United 

States, 1822 269 

(5) 



6 Contents 

Page 

Blaney, Capt An Excursion Through the United States 

and Canada, 1822-23 276 

Faux, W Memorable Days in America: Being a 

Journal of a Tour to the United States, 
1823 291 

Hebert, William A Visit to the Colony of Harmony in In- 
diana, 1825 327 

Pelham, William •. . .Letters of William Pelham Written in 

1825 and 1826 360 

Bernhard, Karl 

(Duke of Saxe-Weimer) Travels Through North America, Dur- 
ing the Years 1825 and 1826 418 

Flint, Timothy Recollections of the Last Ten Years, 

Passed in Occasional Residences and 
Journeyings in the Valley of the Mis- 
sissippi, 1826. 438 

Flint, Timothy A Condensed Geography and History 

of the Western States, or the Missis- 
sippi Valley, 1828 443 

Reed, Isaac The Christian Traveller, 1828 463 

Hall, Captain Basil Travels in North America in the' Years 

1827 and 1828 506 

Cobbett, William A Year's Residence in the United States of 

America, 1828 508 

Postel, Karl The Americans as They Are; Described 

in a Tour Through the Valley of the 
Mississippi, 1828 522 

Atwater, Caleb Remarks Made on a Tour to Prairie du 

Chien, 1829 530 

Coffin, Charles F Personal Recollections of Charles F. Cof- 
fin of Wayne County, Indiana, From 
1824 to 1833 532 

Duclos, Victor Colin Diary and Recollections of Victor Colin 

Duclos, 1825-1833 536 



From A Topographical Description of Virginia, Penn- 
sylvania, Maryland, and North Carolina, by Thomas 
Hutchins [1778], pp. 26-30. 

Hutchins, Thomas. 

The first and only civil geographer of the United States and the origin- 
ator of the land platting survey system was Thomas Hutchins. He was 
born in New Jersey in 1730, and after spending several years in the military 
service, he became interested in exploring the interior of the United States. 
The intimate knowledge gained, fitted him for laying out roads and making 
such topographical surveys as Congress desired. Hence in 1782 he was ap- 
pointed official Geographer of the United States. For the next fifteen years 
he was busy surveying new lands, locating boundaries between states and col- 
lecting such scientific data as requested by the United States government. 
He was recognized as one of the foremost scientific men in the country, and 
his geographical works formed the basis for that famous American Geo- 
graphy of Jedidiah Morse. 

The Wabash, is a beautiful River, with high and upright 
banks, less subject to overflow, than any other River (the Ohio 
excepted) in this part of America. It discharges itself into the 
Ohio, one ,housand and wenty-two miles below Fort Pitt, in 
latitude 37° 41'. — At its mouth, it is 270 yards wide; Is navigable 
to Ouiatanon (412 miles) in the Spring, Summer, and Autumn, with 
Battoes or Barges, drawing about chree feet water. From thence, 
on account of a rocky bottom, and shoal water, large canoes are 
chiefly employed, except when the River is swelled with Rains, at 
which time, it may be ascended with boats, such as I have just de- 
scribed, (197 miles further) to the Miami carrying-place, which is 
nine miles from the Miami village, 1 and this is situated on a River 
of the same name, 2 that runs into the south-south-west part of 
Lake Erie. — The Stream of the Wabash, is generally gentle to Fort 
Ouiatanon, and no where obstructed with Falls, but is by several 
Rapids, both above and below that Fort, some of which are pretty 
considerable. There is also a part of the River for about three 
miles, and 30 miles from the carrying-place, where the Channel is 
so narrow, that it is necessary to make use of setting poles, in- 
stead of oars. The land on bhis River is remarkably fertile, and 
several parts of it are natural meadows, of great extent, covered 
with fine long grass. — The timber is large, and high, and in such 
variety, that almost all the different kinds growing upon the 
Ohio, and it s branches (buc with a greater proportion of black and 

1. Later Fort Wayne* 

2. Maumee River. (7) 



8 Early Travels in Indiana. 

white mulberry-trees) may be found here. — A silver mine has been 
discovered about 28 miles above Ouiatanon, on the northern side of 
the Wabash, and probably others may be found hereafter. The 
Wabash abounds with Salt Springs, and any quantity of salt may 
be made from them, in the manner now done at the Saline in the 
Illinois country: — the hills are replenished with the best coal, and 
there is plenty of Lime and Free Stone, Blue, Yellow and White 
Clay, for Glass Works and Pottery. Two French settlements are es- 
tablished on the Wabash, called Post Vincient and Ouiatanon; 
the first is 150 miles, and the other 262 miles from its mouth. 
The former is on the eastern side of the River, and consists of 60 
settlers and their families. They raise Indian Corn, — Wheat; and 
Tobacco of an extraordinary good quality; — superior, it is said, to 
that produced in Virginia. They have a fine breed of horses 
(brought originally by the Indians from the Spanish settlements on 
the western side of the River Missisippi) and large stocks of Swine, 
and Black Cattle. The settlers deal with the natives for Furrs and 
Deer skins, to the amount of about 5000 I. annually. Hemp of a 
good texture grows spontaneously in the low lands of the Wabash, 
as do Grapes in the greatest abundance, having a black, thin 
skin, and of which the inhabitants in the Autumn, make a suffi- 
cient quantity (for their own consumption) of well-tasted Red- 
Wine. Hops large and good, are found in many places, and the 
lands are particularly adapted to the culture of Rice. All Euro- 
pean fruits: — Apples, Peaches, Pears, Cherrys, Currants, Goos- 
berrys, Melons, & thrive well, both here, and in the country bor- 
dering on the River Ohio. 

Ouiatanon is a small stockaded fort on the western side of the 
Wabash, in which about a dozen families reside. The neighbour- 
ing Indians are the Kickapoos, Musquitons, Pyankishaws, and a 
principle part of the Ouiatanons. The whole of these tribes con- 
sists, it is supposed, of about one thousand warriors. The fer- 
tility of soil, and diversity of timber in this country, are the 
same as in the vicinity of Post Vincient. The annual amount of 
Skins and Furrs, obtained at Ouiatanon is about 8000 I. By the 
River Wabash, the inhabitants of Detroit move to the southern 
parts of Ohio, and the Illinois country. Their rout is by the 
Miami River to a carrying-place, which, as before stated, is nine 
miles to the Wabash, when this River is raised with Freshes; but 
at other seasons, the distance is from 18 to 30 miles including the 
portage. The whole of the latter is through a level country. 
Carts are usually employed in transporting boats and merchandise, 
from the Miami to the W abash River. 



From A Topographical Description of the Western Terri- 
tory of North America, by George Imlay [1793], 
pp. 66-67, 81, 93-97, 113, 137-38, 402-13, 427. 

Imlay, George. 

George Imlay was a captain in the American army during the Revolu- 
tionary war, and later appointed commissioner for laying out lands in the 
"Back Settlements." Taking advantage of the opportunity, he spent consid- 
erable time in making a topographical study of the region. He describes with 
considerable interest the soil, climate, natural history, population, agri- 
culture, manners and customs of the people. By supplying a few maps and a 
table of distances he presented a very readable and somewhat valuable book 
for that day — 1793. 

Immediately in the fork 1 the land is flat, and liable to over- 
flow; but as you advance on either river the banks rise, and the 
country expanding, displays a luxuriant soil for a long distance 
above the Wabash on the Ohio side, and quite to the Illinois on 
the Mississippi side, which is about two hundred and thirty 
miles above its junction with the Ohio, and twenty above the 
mouth of Missouri. This country lies nearly in the same parallel 
of latitude of Kentucky. From the mouth of the Wabash* the 
bottoms on the Ohio are extensive and extremely fertile, as is the 
country from thence to Post St. Vincent; but towards the rapids 
of the Ohio, and beyond the bottoms of this river, the country is 
considerably broken, and the soil in some places light and indiffer- 
ent. After leaving Post St. Vincent, in the route to the Illinois 
country, you soon fall into those extensive plains which have been 
described in such glowing colours by Hutchins. . 

The country lying between the Miami, Wabash, the Ohio, and 
the same hills, I would put into another State; and the country 
lying between the Wabash, Ohio, Mississippi, and Illinois rivers, 
I would establish into a fifth State. . . . 

Here is found all the variety of soil and climate necessary 
to the culture of every kind of grain, fibrous plants, cotton, 
fruits, vegetables, and all sorts of provisions. The upper settle- 

*The Wabash is nearly 300 yards wide at its mouth, and except some inconsider- 
able rapids, it is navigable upwards of 400 miles. 

1. Formed by the Ohio and Mississippi Rivers. 
(9) 



10 Early Travels in Indiana. 

ments on the Ohio produce chiefly wheat, oats, barley, rye, In- 
dian corn or maze, hemp and flax. The fruits are apples, pears, 
cherries, peaches, plums, strawberries, rasberries, currants, 
gooseberries, and grapes; of culinary plants and vegetables, there 
are turnips, potatoes, carrots, parsnips, cymbiline or squash, 
cucumbers, pease, beans, asparagus, cabbages, brocoli, celery and 
sallads; besides which there are melons and herbs of every sort. 
The provision consists of beef, pork, mutton, veal, and a variety 
of poultry, such as ducks, Muscovy ducks, turkeys, geese, dung- 
hill fowls, and pigeons. The superfluous provisions are sold to the 
emigrants, who are continually passing through those settlements, 
in their route to the different districts of country, and which I 
have enumerated. Some considerable quantities of spirits dis- 
tilled from rye, and likewise cyder, are sent down the river to a 
market, in those infant settlements where the inhabitants have 
not had time to bring orchards to any perfection, or have 
not a superfluity of grain to distil into spirits. The beef, pork, 
and flour are disposed of in the same way. The flax and hemp are 
packed on horses and sent across the mountain to the inland towns 
of Pennsylvania and Maryland, and (as I hinted in a former letter) 
in a few years, when grazing forms the principal object of those 
settlers, they will always find a market for their cattle at Phila- 
delphia, Baltimore, and Alexandria. 

These settlements might produce a considerable quantity of 
sugar, but hitherto what they have made has served for little 
more than home consumption, as every part of the back country 
from lat. 42° to 36° and upon the Mississippi, as far north as lat. 
45°, produces an abundance of the sugar maple-tree as would be 
equal to furnish sugar for the inhabitants of the whole earth; and 
to send it to any of the market towns on the Atlantic is too far 
to be profitable, until the canals of the Potowmac shall have 
been finished. That country produces also all the pot-herbs which 
are common in Europe : several kinds of nuts grow in the forests, 
such as chestnuts, hickory, and black walnuts. The mountains, 
hills, and uninhabited parts abound in deer, wild turkeys, and a 
species of grouse, called by the Americans promiscuously part- 
ridge or pheasant. There is an abundance of wild fowl, as indeed 
is the case in every part of the western country: to enumerate 
these could prove for you neither amusement or instruction. 

Linen and woolen cloths, leather, and hats, for home consump- 
tion, are manufactured with considerable success. The two first 



George Imlay. 11 

articles are only made in families for their own use; but the latter 
are made by men of profession in that business, and are of a quality 
that would not disgrace the mechanics of Europe. Blacksmiths' 
work of all sorts, even to making fire arms, is done there; as is 
also cabinet work, wheel-wright, mill-wright, house carpentry, 
joinery, shoe-making, etc., etc., in short, all the trades, immedi- 
ately necessary to the promotion of the comforts of new settle- 
ments, are to be found here. 

After passing to the southward of lat. 40 deg. the climate becomes 
favourable to the culture of tobacco. It will, no doubt, grow farther 
to the north; but neither its flavour is so aromatic, or the crop so 
certain or productive. Indeed, the farther south tobacco grows, 
generally the finer its quality; hence it is, that the saegars of Cuba 
are so much admired for their peculiar scent, and the Oroonookoo 
for its mildness. However, this is of little consequence to any 
country, as it is certain no cultivation is so pernicious to the 
soil, and of so little real advantage to the cultivator. It contin- 
ually impoverishes the land; and every additional season, 
instead of producing riches to an estate, tends to beggar it : every 
vestige of its growth is misery and devastation, and no soil, but 
one as prolific as that of the Nile, would be capable of producing 
it for any length of time, according to the system which has been 
pursued in Virginia and Maryland. However, the whole of the 
Ohio and Mississippi country below lat. 40 deg. is perhaps better 
adapted to produce tobacco in quantity than any other country 
upon the face of the globe. 

There are also portages into the waters of Lake Erie from the 
Wabash, Great Miami, Muskingum, and Allegany, from 2 to 16 
miles.* 

Copper mines have been discovered in several places, but the 
mine on the Wabash is, perhaps, the richest vein of native copper 
in the bowels of the whole earth; and no doubt will render all 
the others of little or no value. Sulphur is found in several places 
in abundance; and nitre is made from earth which is collected 
from caves and other places to which the wet has not penetrated. 
The making this salt, in this country, is so common, that many of 
the settlers manufacture their own gunpowder. 

Extract from a letter written by a member of the expedition against 
the Indians in 1791: 

"General Scott, at the head of 800 Kentucky Volunteers, 
marched from opposite the mouth of the Kentucky River, about the 

♦Some of these have been noticed in a note in a preceding part of this work. 



12 Early Travels in Indiana. 

beginning of June, the course he steered was about north 20° 
west, and in about fifteen days he struck and surprized the lower 
Weaucteneau towns on the Wabash River, and the pararie adjoin- 
ing; but unfortunately the river at that time was not fordable, or 
the Kickapoo Town on the north-west side, with the Indians who 
escaped in their canoes from the Weau Town on the south, must 
have fallen completely into our hands; however, about 20 war- 
riors were killed in the Weau villages, and in the river crossing the 
Wabash, and 47 of their Squaws and children taken prisoners. 

"Immediately after the engagement, a council of war was 
called, when it was determined, that Wilkinson should cross the 
Wabash under cover of the night, with a detachment of four 
hundred men, and endeavour to surprise the town of Kathtip- 
pacamunck, which was situated upon the north side of that 
river, at the mouth of Rippacanoe creek, and about twenty miles 
above the Lower Weau towns. This expedition was conducted 
with so much caution and celerity, that Wilkinson arrived at the 
margin of the pararie, within a mile, and to the west of the town, 
about an hour before the break of day; whilst a detachment was 
taking a circuit through the pararie to co-operate with the main 
body on a given signal; day appeared, and the volunteers rushed 
into the town with an impetuosity not to be resisted. The 
detachment in advance reached the Rippacanoe Creek the very 
moment the last of the Indians were crossing, when a very brisk 
fire took place between the detachment and the Indians on the 
opposite side, in which several of their warriors were killed, and 
two of our men wounded. 

"This town, which contained about 120 houses, 80 of which 
were shingle roofed, was immediately burnt and levelled with the 
ground; the best houses belonged to French traders, whose gardens 
and improvements round the town were truly delightful, and, 
every thing considered, not a little wonderful; there was a tavern, 
with cellars, bar, public, and private rooms; and the whole marked 
a considerable share of order, and no small degree of civilization. 

"Wilkinson returned with his detachment, after destroying 
the town, and joined the main army about seven in the evening; 
and the day following our little army were put in motion with 
their prisoners; and steering about south, in twelve days reached 
the Rapids of the Ohio, with the loss only of two men, who unfortu- 
nately were drowned in crossing Main White River. 

"The success of this expedition encouraged Government to set 
another on foot, under the command of General Wilkinson; 



George Imlay. 13 

which was destined to operate against the same tribes of Indians; 
whose main town, near the mouth of Ell River, on the Wabash, 
had not been attacked in the first excursion; and accordingly, on 
the first of August following, the general, at the head of 500 
mounted volunteers, marched from Fort Washington, north 
16° west, steering, as it were, for the Manmic villages on the 
Picaway Fork of the Manmic (or Miami of the lake) and St. 
Mary's River — This movement was intended as a feint, and the 
Indians, who afterwards fell upon our trail, were completely 
deceived; nor did we change our course, until by the capture of a 
Delaware Indian, we ascertained that we were within 30 miles 
of the principal of the Manmic villages, and having marched down 
our northing, at the very time we received the information, shifted 
our course to due west, and at the distance of 180 miles from Fort 
Washington we struck the Wabash within two miles and a half of 
Longuille, or, as the Indians call it, Kenapacomaqua — It was 
about 4 P. M. when we reached that river, and crossing it immedi- 
ately, we marched in four columns across the neck of land, formed 
by the junction of the Wabash and Ell Rivers: passing several 
Indian war posts that had been fresh painted, we arrived com- 
pletely concealed on the south bank of Ell River, and directly 
opposite the town of Kenapacomaqua. 

"The surprize of this town was so very complete, that before 
we received orders to cross the river and rush upon the town, we 
observed several children playing on the tops of the houses, and 
could distinguish the hilarity and merriment that seemed to crown 
the festivity of the villagers, for it was in the season of the green 
corn dance. 

"The want of day-light, and a morass, that nearly encircled 
the town, prevented us from suddenly attacking, which enabled 
several of the Indians to escape; and in some measure obscured 
the brilliancy of the enterprize, by limiting the number of warriors 
killed to eleven; and capturing forty Squaws and their children, 
after burning all the houses, and destroying about 200 acres of 
corn; which was then in the milk, and in that stage when the 
Indians prepare it for Zossomanony. This success was atchieved 
with the loss of two men, who were killed. 

"About four o'clock in the afternoon we mounted our prisoners, 
and took a west and by north course toward the Little Kickapoo 
Town, which the general hoped to surprize on his way to the Great 
Kickapoo Town, in the pararie, on the waters of the Illinois 
River; but the difficulties we encountered in this march, through 

T— 2 



14 Early Travels in Indiana. 

these almost boundless pararies, were such, that upon our arrival 
at the Little Kickapoo Town, we found one half the horses in the 
army non-effective, and unlikely to reach the Ohio, by the near- 
est course we could take; which consideration induced the gen- 
eral to relinquish the enterprize against the Great Kickapoo 
Town; and, accordingly, after destroying about 200 acres of corn 
at Kathtippacanunck, Kickapoo, and the lower Weauctenau 
towns, we gained General Scot's return tract, and on the 21st of 
August, after a circuitous march of 486 miles, arrived with our 
prisoners at Louisville. 

"In the course of this march, I had an opportunity of observ- 
ing the general face of the country through which we passed. — 
Between Fort Washington, at the crossing of the Great Miami, 
where at present there is a considerable settlement under the pro- 
tection of Fort Hamilton, a fine body of land is found, but which 
is very indifferently watered. The situation of Fort Hamilton is 
well chosen, as advantageous for defence, as pleasing to the eye; 
it stands on a narrow neck of land, commanding the Miami on 
N.W. and a pararie and sheet of water on the N.E. about a mile 
wide, and two miles and a half long; from this pararie an abundant 
supply of forage may be got for the use of the army by repeated mov- 
ings [mowings] of a very fine natural grass, from the month of June 
till the end of September. After passing the Miami River hills, on 
the west side, the country in places is broken, though, generally 
speaking, from thence to the limits of our march, toward the 
Manmic villages the face of it is agreeably varied with hills and 
dales; well watered, and the timber mostly such as indicates a 
strong and durable soil. Between the Manmic trace and our west 
line of march toward Kenapacomaqua, there are a number of 
beech swamps, which will require draining before they will admit 
of settlements being formed — there are however delightfully 
pleasant and fertile situations on the Balemut and Salamine 
Rivers, which are only inferior to the woody plains of Kentucky 
in extent and climate. The pararie, in which was situated Ken- 
apacomaqua, on the north bank of Ell River, is chiefly a morass, 
and produces little else, other than hazel, sallow, a species of 
dwarf poplar, and a very coarse, but luxuriant grass; the latter of 
which covers mostly the whole surface of the earth. — The same 
kind of pararie extends, with little alteration, until you approach 
Kathtippacanunck, when the whole country gradually assumes a 
more pleasing and valuable appearance. 



George Imlay. 15 

"On our line of march from Kenapacomaqua to Kathtippa- 
canunck (the distance of which from the traverses we were obliged 
to make to avoid impassable morasses, was sixty miles), in several 
places, the prospect was only bounded by the natural horizon, 
the uniformity of which was here and there broken by the dis- 
tant looming of a grove on the edge of the plane, which strongly 
resembled the projecting points of a coach clothed with wood, 
and seen by mariners at a distance from the shore. 

"The situation of the late town of Kathtippacanunck was well 
chosen for beauty and convenience; it stood in the bosom of a 
delightful surrounding country on a very rich bottom, extend- 
ing east and west, on the Wabash River about two miles; the bot- 
tom about half a mile wide, bounded on the east by Tippacanoe, 
and westward by a beautiful rising ground, skirted and clothed 
with thin woods- — from the upper bank you command a view of 
the Wabash River, which is terminated by a towering growth of 
wood to the south, and Tippacanoe Creek to the East — the coun- 
try in the rear from the upper bank spreads into a level pararie 
of firm, strong land, of an excellent quality, interspersed with 
copses, naked groves of trees, and high mounds of earth of a regular 
and conical form, all of which conspire to relieve the eye, and cheer 
the scene with a most agreeable variety. The top of this bank, 
which is level with the plane of the pararie, and about two hundred 
feet perpendicular from the bottom in which the town stood, 
forms an angle about 60°, and about midway there issues from its 
side two living fountains, which have hitherto constantly supplied 
the town with water. 

"The country between Kathtippacanunck and the Little 
Kickapoo town is beautiful beyond description. The numerous 
breaks, and intermixture of woodland and plains, give the whole 
an air of the most perfect taste; for nature here, in a propitious 
hour and in a benignant mood, seems to have designed to prove, in 
beautifying, how far she excels our utmost efforts, and the most 
laboured improvements of art. 

"Between the Little Kickapoo town and the lower Weauste- 
neau towns, the land is of the first-rate quality — at the edge of the 
wood lands, and before you descend into the river bottoms, one 
of the most charming prospects the imagination can form, dis- 
plays itself in all the variegated pride of the most captivating 
beauty. From this place, through the glades and vistas of the 
groves in the bottom, you catch a view of the meandering river, 



16 Early Travels in Indiana. 

which silently steals through this smiling country, as if pregnant 
with its charms, and, as if it was hurrying to communicate its 
joys to less happy streams. The bottoms of the Wabash on the 
opposite side are confined by a bluff bank nearly two hundred feet, 
which interrupts the prospect, and runs parrallel with the river — 
from the top of this bank a plain is seen stretching out to the east 
and west as far as the eye can reach, without tree or bush, covered 
with a most luxuriant herbage, and in every respect assuming the 
appearance of a highly improved and cultivated meadow. The 
plain is terminated on the south by a distant prospect of the rising 
woodlands, which, with a misty bloom, and in all that azure beauty, 
so peculiar to these fair regions, here appears in all its setherial 
lustre; and seems finally lost in combining with the clouds. 

"The Briares extend about twenty-five miles south of the 
Wabash, from thence the country gradually breaks into hills and 
valleys, and until we reached the waters of White River, we found 
the soil tolerably good. There it is very much broken, the bot- 
toms of the rivers are narrow, and subject to frequent and violent 
inundations. 

"There is some tolerable good land on Rocky River, but as we 
approached the waters of the Blue River, the country again opens 
into plains, in which are interspersed clumps of scrubby oak, 
dwarf laurel, plumb, and hazel, that extend to Indian Creek, when 
the country again improves, and though it is rather broken, it 
continued to improve until we reached the Rapids of the Ohio." 
. . .The country within the Wabash, the Indian line before 
described, the Pennsylvania line, and the Ohio, contains, on a 
loose estimate, about 55,000 square miles, or 35 millions of acres. 

During the British government, great numbers of persons had 
formed themselves into companies under different names, such as 
the Ohio, the Wabache, the Illinois, the Mississippi, or Vandalia 
companies, and had covered, with their applications, a great part 
of this territory. Some of them had obtained orders on certain 
conditions, which, having never been fulfilled, their titles were 
never completed by grants. Others were only in a state of negocia- 
tion, when the British authority was discontinued. 



From A view of the soil and climate of the United States of 
America, by C. F. Volney [1804], pp. 24-25, 70-71, 
121, 124, 331-37, 352-55. 

Volney, Constantin Francois Chasseboenf. 

C. F. Volney was a Frenchman who first gained distinction by publish- 
ing an account of his travels in Syria and Egypt. In 1796 he came to America 
and made a study chiefly of its physical conditions, its surface and climate. 
A few remarks were added upon the character of the aboriginal tribes. The 
writer was somewhat prejudiced and his descriptions smack strongly of 
conceit. Yet, unassisted as he was, he presents as nearly a scientific review 
of conditions as was possible for any one observer. 

... I traversed one hundred and twenty miles of this forest, from 
Louisville, near the rapids of Ohio, to Vincennes, on the Wabash, 
without lighting on a hut, and, what surprised me still more, with- 
out hearing the voice of a bird, though in the month of July. This 
forest ends just before you reach the Wabash, and from thence 
to the Mississippi, a distance of eighty miles, all is prairie or 
meadow. Here commences the American Tartary, bearing, in 
all respects, a strong resemblance to the Asiatic. Though warm 
and sultry in the southern quarter, the air becomes chill, and the 
soil unkindly, as you go northward. Beyond the 48th degree 
of north latitude, the waters are frozen six months in the year, 
the ground is overshadowed by deep woods, or drowned in swamps, 
and intersected by rivers, which, in a course of three thousand 
miles have not fifty miles of interruption or portages. In all 
these features, we recognize a likeness to the ancient Tartary, 
which would be entire and complete, could we see its natives 
metamorphosed into horsemen. This transformation has, within 
the last twenty-five or thirty years, taken place, in some degree, 
among the Nehesawey or Noudowessey Indians, who are mounted 
upon Spanish horses, stolen in the plains north of Mexico. In half 
a century, these New Tartars will probably become formidable 
neighbours to the people of the United States, and the settlers 
beyond the Mississippi will encounter difficulties totally unknown 
to their ancestors. 

... On my return from Vincennes, on the Wabash, I was first 
struck by the position of a ridge of hills, situated below Silver 
Creek, about five miles from the rapids. This ridge, vaguely 
denominated, by the Canadians, the Banks, stretches from north 
to south, across the basin of the Ohio. It compels the stream to 
change its course from east to west, in search of an outlet, which 

(17) 



18 Early Travels in Indiana. 

presents itself at its conflux with the Salt River. It may be said 
to require the accession of that river, in order to force a way 
through the rampart before it. The rapid but smooth declivity 
of these banks may be descended in a quarter of an hour. Com- 
pared with other heights, their elevation may be stated at 400 
feet. The summit is too thickly studded with trees to permit us to 
trace the lateral course of this chain with the eye. We may dis- 
cover, however, that it stretches far to the north and south, and 
that it shuts up the entire basin of the Ohio. 

Viewed from this summit, the general appearance of this vale 
tended strongly to confirm all my previous opinions respecting 
the existence of an ancient lake. Other circumstances likewise 
lent their aid to this conclusion; for from this ridge to the White 
River, eight miles from Vincennes, the whole surface is roughened 
by hills, frequently steep and lofty. They are high and precip- 
itous near the Blue River, and on both sides of the White River. 
They take a course, in general, transverse to the Ohio. 
. . .Wheat is not grown at Vincennes. The products chiefly 
attended to are maize, tobacco, and cotton, all which have been 
deemed congenial to a hot climate. 

. . .The Wabash is usually frozen in winter, but only for five, ten, 
or fifteen days. In Kentucky, and throughout the vale of the 
Ohio, the snow remains from three days to ten, and even in Jan- 
uary they experience hot sultry days, when the mercury rises to 
66 and 72, with the wind at south or south-west, and a clear sky. 
The spring is ushered in with showers, blown from the north- 
east and north-west, and the heats become great and permanent 
within forty days after the equinox. For sixty or seventy days 
ensuing the summer solstice, they prevail with the greatest inten- 
sity, the thermometer ranging between 90 and 95. This period is 
tempestuous, storms almost daily occurring on the Ohio, and these 
storms rather aggravate than moderate the heat. Rain is some- 
times brought by the south and south-west winds, and sometimes is 
formed by the vapours rising copiously from the river and the 
immense forest that overshadows all the country. The rain, 
which descends in torrents, gives only momentary relief to the 
parched soil, and the heat of the ensuing day obliging it to reas- 
cend, it forms heavy morning mists, which afterwards become 
clouds, and thus continually renews the electrical process. The 
river water is at the temperature of 64 or 66. After a night of 
dead calm, a breeze is called up from the west or south-west, 



CONSTANTIN FRANCOIS ChASSEBOENF VoLNEY. 19 

between eight and ten in the morning, which dies away about four 
in the afternoon. 

. . .Louisville (Kentucky) has about a hundred houses, and is two 
miles above the falls, more properly the rapids, of the Ohio, which 
I passed over in a boat. I waited here eight hours, till a caravan 
was collected of four or five horsemen, necessary to travel upwards 
of 100 miles of woods and meadows, so desart as not to contain a 
solitary hut. 

After a hasty march of three days, we reached (August 2, 
1796) Vincennes, on the Wabash. The eye is at first presented 
with an irregular savannah, eight miles in length by three in 
breadth, skirted by eternal forests, and sprinkled with a few 
trees, and abundance of umbelliferous plants, three or four feet 
high. Maize, tobacco, wheat, barley, squashes, and even cotton, 
grow in the fields around the village, which contains about fifty 
houses, whose cheerful white relieves the eye, after the tedious 
dusk and green of the woods. 

These houses are placed along the left bank of the Wabash, 
here about two hundred feet wide, and falling, when the waters 
are low, twenty feet below the scite of the town. The bank of the 
river is sloping towards the savannah, which is a few feet lower: 
this slope is occasioned by the periodical floods. Each house, as is 
customary in Canada, stands alone, and is surrounded by a court 
and garden, fenced with poles. I was delighted by the sight of 
peach trees loaded with fruit, but was sorry to notice the thorn 
apple, which is found in all the cultivated places from beyond 
Gallipolis. Adjoining the village and river is a space, enclosed by 
a ditch eight feet wide, and by sharp stakes six feet high. This is 
called the fort, and is a sufficient safeguard against surprises from 
Indians. 

I had letters to a principal man of the place, by birth a Dutch- 
man, but who spoke good French. I was accommodated at 
his house, in the kindest and most hospitable manner, for ten 
days. The day after my arrival a court was held, to which I 
repaired, to make my remarks on the scene. On entering, I was 
surprised to observe the audience divided into races of men, in 
persons and feature widely differing from each other. The fair 
or light brown hair, ruddy complexion-, round face, and plump 
body, indicative of health and ease, of one set, were forcibly 
contrasted with the emaciated frame, and meagre tawny visage of 
the other: the dress, likewise, of the latter denoted their indigence. 
I soon discovered that the former were new settlers from the 



20 Early Travels in Indiana. 

neighbouring states, whose lands had been reclaimed five or six 
years before, while the latter were French, of sixty years standing 
in the district. The latter, three or four excepted, knew nothing of 
English, while the former were almost as ignorant of French. I 
had acquired, in the course of a year, a sufficient knowledge of 
English to converse with them, and was thus enabled to hear the 
tales of both parties. 

The French, in a querulous tone recounted the losses and hard- 
ships they had suffered, especially since the last Indian war, in 
1788. Between that period and the peace of 1763, when Eng- 
land obtained Canada, and Spain Louisiana, they enjoyed 
tranquillity and happiness, under the protection of Spain. Unmo- 
lested and sequestered in the heart of the wilderness, fifty leagues 
from the nearest post on the Mississippi, without taxes, and in 
friendship with the Indians, they passed their lives in hunting, 
fishing, trading in furs, and raising a few esculents and a little 
corn for their families. Many of them had inter-married with the 
Indians, whose amity was by these ties secured and strengthened, 
and their numbers amounted to three hundred persons. 

During the revolutionary war, their remote situation exempted 
them from all its evils, till, in 1782, they were visited by a detach- 
ment from Kentucky, who plundered and insulted them, and killed 
or drove off the cattle which formed their chief wealth. 

The peace of 1783 gave them to the United States, under whose 
benign government they began to breathe again; but unluckily an 
Indian war commenced in 1788, and siding with the whites, as 
duty and discretion enjoined, they were annoyed by the savages, 
whose animosity was embittered by the remembrance of their 
ancient friendship and alliance. Their cattle were killed, their 
village closely beset, and, for several years, they could not carry 
the plough or hoe a musket shot from their huts. 

Military service was added to their other hardships; but, in 
1792, the compassion of the federal government gave four hundred 
acres of land to every one who paid the capitation, and a hundred 
more to every one who served in the militia. This domain, so 
ample to a diligent husbandman, was of little value to the hunting 
Frenchmen, who soon bartered away their invaluable ground for 
about 30 cents an acre, which was paid to them in goods, on which 
an exorbitant profit was charged. This land was of the best qual- 
ity; it sold as early as 1796, at two dollars an acre, and I may 
venture to say is now worth at least ten. Thus, for the most part, 
reduced again to their gardens, or the little homestead which was 



CONSTANTIN FRANCOIS ChASSEBOENF VoLNEY. 21 

indispensable to their subsistence, they had nothing to live on 
but their fruit, potatoes, maize, and now and then a little game; 
and, on this fare, no wonder they became as lean as Arabs.* 

They complain that they were cheated and robbed, and, 
especially that their rights were continually violated by the 
courts, in which two judges only out of five were Frenchmen, who 
knew little of the laws or language of the English. Their igno- 
rance, indeed, was profound. Nobody ever opened a school 
among them, till it was done by the abbe R. a polite, well educated, 
and liberal minded missionary, banished hither by the French 
revolution. Out of nine of the French, scarcely six could read or 
write, whereas nine-tenths of the Americans, or emigrants from 
the east, could do both. Their dialect is by no means, as I had 
been previously assured, a vulgar or provincial brogue, but pretty 
good French, intermixed with many military terms and phrases, 
all these settlements having been originally made by soldiers. 
The primitive stock of Canada was the regiment of Carignon. 
I could not fix with accuracy the date of the first settlement of 
Vincennes; and, notwithstanding the homage paid by some learned 
men to tradition, I could trace out but few events of the war of 
1757, though some of the old men lived before that period. I 
was only able to form a conjecture that it was planted about 1735. 

These statements were confirmed, for the most part, by the new 
settlers. They only placed the same facts in a different point of 
view. They told me that the Canadians, for by that name the 
French of the western colonies are known among them, had only 
themselves to blame for all the hardships they complained of. 
We must allow, say they, that they are a kind, hospitable, soci- 
able set, but then for idleness and ignorance, they beat the Indians 
themselves. They know nothing at all of civil or domestic affairs: 
their women neither sow, nor spin, nor make butter, but pass their 
time in gossipping and tattle, while all at home is dirt and dis- 
order. The men take to nothing but hunting, fishing, roaming in 
the woods, and loitering in the sun. They do not lay up, as we do, 
for winter, or provide for a rainy day. They cannot cure pork or 
venison, make sour crout or spruce beer, or distil spirits from 
apples or rye, all needful arts to the farmer. If they trade, they 
try by exorbitant charges to make much out of a little; for little 

*This implies that hunger or spare diet makes them lean, but this is evidently- 
absurd. They cannot want plenty of the best food, and are probably greater eaters 
than their sleek and jolly neighbors. Their thinness must be owing to their con- 
stitution or their activity. — Trans. 



22 Early Travels in Indiana. 

is generally their all, and what they get they throw away upon the 
Indian girls, in toys and baubles. Their time is wasted too in 
trifling stories of their insignificant adventures, and journies to 
town to see their friends.* 

When the peace of 1793 incorporated them with the United 
States, their first demand was a commanding officer, and hard it 
was to make them comprehend the nature of elective or municipal 
government. — Even now they have nobody fit to govern the rest. 
They will not learn English, and it is not worth while for us to 
learn the language of eighty or ninety people, who may leave us 
to-morrow for Louisiana. Indeed they would be wise in doing so. 
for their indolence will never be a match for our industry. 
. . . My stay at Vincennes afforded me some knowledge of the 
Indians, who were there assembled to barter away the produce of 
their red hunt. There were four or five hundred of them, men, 
women, and children, of various tribes, as the Weeaws, Payories, 
Sawkies, Pyankishaws, and Miamis, all living near the head of the 
Wabash. This was the first opportunity I had of observing, at 
my leisure, a people who have already become rare east of the 
Allegheny. It was, .to me, a new and most whimsical sight. Bodies 
almost naked, tanned by the sun and air, shining with grease and 
soot; head uncovered; hair coarse, black, and straight; a face 
smeared with red, blue, and black paint, in patches of all forms 
and sizes; one nostril bored to admit a ring of silver or copper; 
ear-rings, with three rows of drops, down to the shoulders, and 
passing through holes that would admit a finger; a little square 
apron before, and another behind, fastened by the same string; 
the legs and thighs sometimes bare, and sometimes covered 
with cloth hose; socks of smoke-dried leather; sometimes a shirt, 
with short loose sleeves, and flowing loosely on the thighs, of 
variegated or striped cloth; over this a blanket, or a square piece 
of cloth, drawn over one shoulder, and fastened under the other, or 
under the chin. On solemn occasions, or for war, their hair is 
braided with flowers, feathers, or bones. The warriors have their 
wrists adorned with broad metal rings, like our dog collars, and a 
circle round their heads, of buckles or beads. They carry in their 
hand a pipe, knife or tomahawk, and a little looking-glass, which 
they examine with as much attention and complacency as any 
European coquet. The females are a little more covered about the 
loins. They carry one or two children behind them in a sort of 

♦Thus they speak of New Orleans, as if it were a walk of half an hour, though it is 
fifteen hundred miles down the river. 



Constantin Francois Chasseboenf Volney. 23 

bag, the ends of which are tied upon their forehead. In this 
respect they have a strong resemblance to our gypsies. 

The men and women roamed all day about the town, merely 
to get rum, for which they eagerly exchanged their peltry, their 
toys, their clothes, and at length, when they had parted with their 
all, they offered their prayers and entreaties, never ceasing to 
drink till they had lost their senses. Hence arise ridiculous scenes. 
They will hold the cup with both hands, like monkies, burst into 
unmeaning laughter, and gargle their beloved cup, to enjoy the 
taste of it the longer; hand about the liquor with clamorous 
invitations, bawl aloud at each other, though close together, seize 
their wives, and pour the liquor down their throats, and, in 
short, display all the freaks of vulgar drunkenness. Sometimes 
tragical scenes ensue: they become mad or stupid, and falling in 
the dust or mud, lie a senseless log till next day. We found them 
in the streets by dozens in the morning, wallowing in the filth 
with the pigs. It was rare for a day to pass without a deadly 
quarrel, by which about ten men lose their lives yearly. A 
savage once stabbed his wife, in four places, with a knife, a few 
paces from me. A similar event took place a fortnight before, and 
five such the preceding year. For this, vengeance is either immedi- 
ately taken, or deferred to a future opportunity by the relations 
of the slain, which affords fresh cause for bloodshed and treachery. 
I at first conceived the design of spending a few months among 
them, as I had done among the Bedwins; but I was satisfied with 
this sample, and those the best acquainted with them assured me, 
that there was no Arabian hospitality among them: that all was 
anarchy and disorder. The greatest chief could not strike or 
punish the meanest warrior, even in the field, and at home nobody 
obeyed him but his own wife and children. They dwell separately, 
in mistrust, jealousy, and eternal animosity. With them, what 
they want they have a right to, and what they have strength 
enough to seize is their own. Besides, as they scarcely made pro- 
vision for themselves, a stranger would run the risk of being 
starved. 

I chiefly regretted, on abandoning my scheme, the loss of an 
opportunity for gaining some knowledge of their language, and 
forming a vocabulary: a scheme the importance of which, with 
respect to a people who want all other monuments, I have else- 
where insisted on.* The missionary R. } whom I have already 

*See my Lectures upon History, Lecture V. 



24 Early Travels in Indiana. 

mentioned, having failed in all his efforts to this purpose, left me 
no hopes of succeeding. Some of the people of Vincennes are 
acquainted with the Indian dialects, but their pronunciation is so 
bad, and their ignorance of all grammatical distinctions so great, 
that they could afford him no aid. 



From Travels in America performed in 1806, for the 
purpose of exploring the rivers Allegheny, Monon- 
gahela, Ohio and Mississippi, and ascertaining the 
produce and condition of the banks and vicinity, by 
Thomas Ashe, Esq. [1808], pp. 232-33, 246-49. 

Ashe, Thomas. 

Thomas Ashe was an Englishman, and like many of his kind, came to 
America for the purpose of travel and exploration. He arrived here in 1806, 
came west, explored the Allegheny, Monongahela, Ohio and Mississippi 
Rivers. His sole view was "to examine in a satisfactory manner this new 
and interesting country." 

While rather plain spoken about conditions as they existed here, yet his 
description does not smack of undue criticism. His letters, published in 
1808, were read with interest by emigrants and antiquarians. 

Fourteen miles from the North Bend, and twenty-one from 
Cincinnati, I passed the mouth of the great Miami; on the right- 
hand shore from it is the Western boundary of the Ohio State, 
and the Eastern commencement of the Indiana territory, which, in 
a short time, and with the increase of population, will receive the 
title of a State and become the brightest star in the galaxy of the 
Union. The land is for a great part richly wooded, fertile, and 
applicable to all the purposes of agriculture and extensive and 
productive improvement. The territory is upwards of six hundred 
miles square, and is thus copiously watered; on the north by the 
Lakes; on the south by the Ohio; and on the west by the Missis- 
sippi. Through it also runs, generally in a south course, the 
Wabash, the Illinois, and variety of creeks and streams. . . 

Mouth of the Wabash, Indiana Territory. 
September, 1806. 
Previously to leaving Louisville, I crossed the river and visited 
the town of Jefferson, which is also seated about two miles above 
the falls. It is yet very small, but the inhabitants appear deter- 
mined to add to its character and opulence, being now employed 
in forming a canal, by which navigators may avoid all dangers, 
and proceed down the river at all seasons of the year. I sur- 
veyed the line of the canal, and think it much more practicable 
than that marked off on the opposite shore. I entertain no doubt 
of the commerce of the river being adequate to the support of both 
undertakings, and that the proprietors will be hereafter amply 
remunerated. 

(25) 



26 Early Travels in Indiana. 

I descended the falls by the shore, and once more enjoyed their 
grandeur, though from a different point of view. I then crossed 
over to my boat, which lay at Clarksville, a small settlement lying 
near the eddy formed by the recoiling flood. It is as yet a village 
of no importance, however, if it forms the mouth of the intended 
canal its rise is certain. Twenty-five miles from Louisville, I 
passed the mouth of Salt River on the Kentucky shore. All I 
could learn respecting it, was, that it received its name from the 
number of salines on its banks, which impregnate its waters, 
when in a low state, and fifty-seven miles farther down I put into 
Blue River on the Indiana side, which takes its name from its 
colour being of a fine azure. 

In the whole run to the Wabash of two hundred and seventy- 
two miles, effected in six days, and I made little or no stop, and 
met with no event to be called interesting. I very strongly per- 
ceived that occurances capable of affording information and 
anecdote were ceasing. Above the falls, the banks of the river 
are enlivened by plantations, towns, and villages; below, nothing 
is seen but the state of nature, broken at vast distances, of from 
twenty to thirty miles, with wretched huts, the residence of soli- 
tude and misfortune. Most of the settlers on the lower parts 
were criminals who either escaped from, or were apprehensive of, 
public justice. On descending the river, they fix on some invit- 
ing spot without ever looking after the proprietor of the soil, 
erect a log-hut, plant a little corn, make salt at a. neighbouring 
saline; coffee from the wild pea; and extract sugar from the maple 
tree. In time they extend their labours, and embrace all the 
necessaries of life. Some do more — from living in habits of indus- 
try they lose the practise of vice, and learn the consequence of 
virtue; while unhappily, some others pursue their former crimes, 
and live by the means of murder and the plunder of various boats. 

The aspect and banks of the river in the late run I have made, 
are nearly similar to those above the falls, and from below Pitts- 
burg. The banks are formed of a chain of mountains; some rising 
up and above the rest; and some are so low, interwoven, and con- 
trasted, that they form an agreeable diversity of hills and dales. 
From several points of view, the opposite bank looks like an 
immense amphitheatre, which has all the charms that can be pro- 
duced by an infinite variety of the most sumptuous trees and 
shrubs, reflecting uncommon beauties on each other, and on the 
bosom of their favourite flood. Twenty miles below Blue River I 
crossed the mouth of another river on the same side. I believe it 



Thomas Ashe. 27 

has not been named. The navigation of the three last rivers I 
have mentioned, is very trifling. Their waters are low, and 
broken by rocks and rapids. 

About ninety miles below the Blue River, and eight hundred 
and thirty-nine from Pittsburg, is Yellow-bank Creek; so called 
from the banks changing its general colour and quality of a black 
mould to a bright yellow clay. In the space of eight miles below 
this creek, I passed a chain of islands, six in number, which added 
much to the effect and beauty of the water, and gave more variety 
of the general scene. The islands were richly wooded, as are all 
others on the river. Between a creek called Hacden's and the 
Yellow-bank, which maintains its colour for the distance of a 
mile, the low lands commence. The high hills, which up the river 
are uniformly to be met with, now entirely disappear, and there is 
nothing to be seen on either hand but an extensive level country. 
It is remarkable, that the hills should subside on each shore exactly 
at equal distances down, and in a similar distinction and manner 
twenty-five miles from the Yellow-bank. I crossed the mouth of 
Green River on the Kentucky shore. It is the fine water which I 
mentioned in my last. It is navigated by a bateaux at one season, 
and by flat bottomed boats through the year. The lands are 
healthy, and inhabited by a stout race of people. Nearer the Ohio 
it is subject to inundation, is sickly, and thinly settled. Lower 
down, twenty-five miles more, I came to a place called the Red 
Bank, in consequence of its varying from the general colour, and 
assuming a deep red. I could not learn that any mineral or any 
ore had ever been discovered in the Red or Yellow-bank. This 
colour would encourage a belief that they contain something 
analagous to its distinction from that of the common and adjoin- 
ing soil. The United States should order such appearances to be 
analized and explored. At the Red Bank, which is included in a 
grant by Congress to one Henderson, of two hundred thousand 
acres — a town is laid off. Owing to a remarkable bend in the river, 
though the distance from the mouth of Green River to Henderson 
by water is twenty-five miles, yet by land it is only about seven. 
Henderson consists of about twenty houses, and inhabited by a 
people whose doom is fixed. I never saw the same number of per- 
sons look so languid, emaciated and sick. The whole settlement 
was attacked in the spring by the ague, which subsided in a nerv- 
ous fever, and is now followed by a violent and wasting flux. 

I left Henderson with the commisseration clue to the sufferings 
of its inhabitants, and after a run of fifteen miles, came in view of 



28 Early Travels in Indiana. 

Diamond Island, which is by far the finest in the river, and perhaps 
the most beautiful in the world. It is higher than the adjoining 
main land, containing twenty-thousand acres; and is of the exact 
form of a diamond, whose angles point directly up and down, and 
to each side of the expanded river. The shades, views, and per- 
spective of an island so situated, clothed with aromatic shrubs, 
crowned with timber, surrounded by water, bounded by an 
extensive and delightful country, are too numerous, varied, and 
sublime, to come under the controul of written description. 

I visited the island in several directions, and found established 
on it a few French families, who live nearly in the original Indian 
state and bestow very little labour on the ground. They have 
planted a few peech-orchards which thrive well, as do every 
other exotic introduced. Native grapes abound, and I tasted 
wine expressed from them, which was as good as any inferior 
Bourdeaux. Fish are innumerable in the water, and swans, ducks, 
and geese reside eight months in the year around the island. It 
also abounds with game of every description, and is often visited 
by herds of deer, which swim from the main land to enjoy its 
fragrant herbage and luxuriant pasture. 

The Wabash enters on the Indiana or N. W. side. It is nine 
hundred and forty-nine miles from Pittsburg, and is one of the 
most considerable rivers between that town and the mouth of the 
Ohio. It is very beautiful, four hundred yards wide at its mouth, 
and three hundred at St. Vineconne's, which is one hundred miles 
above the mouth in a direct line. Within this space there are two 
small rapids which give very little obstruction to the navigation. 
In the spring and autumn it is passable for bateaux, drawing three 
feet water; four hundred and twelve miles to Ouiatona, a small 
French settlement on the west side of the river; and for large 
canoes it is navigable for one hundred and ninety-seven miles 
further, to the Miami carrying-place, which is nine miles from the 
Miami village. This village stands on Miami River, 1 which empties 
into the S.W. part of Lake Erie. The communication between 
Detroit and the Illinois and Indiana country, is up Miami River 
to Miami village; thence, by land, nine miles through a level 
country to the Wabash, and through the various branches of the 
Wabash to the respective places of distinction. 

A silver mine has been discovered about twenty-eight miles 
above Ouiatonan, and salt-springs, lime, free-stone, blue, yellow 
and white clay, are found in abundance on this river's banks. 



1. Now called Maumee. 



From Travels in the United States of America, in the years 
1806, 1807, 1809, 1810 and 1811, by John Melish 
[1812], Vol. II, pp. 150-57. 

Melish, John. 

Mr. Melish was an English merchant who early became interested in the 
business possibilities offered in the United States. As early as 1798, when 
on a trip to the West Indies, he began taking note of the natural and geo- 
graphic conditions peculiar to America. A few years later he made an ex- 
tensive trip through the Atlantic Coast states, going as far south as Georgia, 
and kept careful notes of his travels. Becoming financially interested in 
an American business undertaking, he studied the American institutions in 
greaf detail. On aU of his journeys 1806-1807; 1808-1809, he kept a careful 
diary. He was especially interested in the prospective fines of communica- 
tion; the political and economic views of the settlers; their attitude toward 
Great Britain, etc. Several maps were charted, and published along with 
his travels, 1812. 

Louisville, being the principal port of the western part 
of the state of Kentucky, is a market for the purchase of all kinds 
of produce, and the quantity that is annually shipped down the 
river is immense. A few of the articles, with the prices at the time 
that I was there, may be noticed. Flour and meal have been 
quoted. Wheat was 62 ^ cents per bushel; corn 50; rye 42; oats 
25; hemp 4 dollars 50 cents per cwt.; tobacco 2 dollars. Horses 
25 to 100 dollars; cows 10 to 15 dollars; sheep 1 dollar 25 cents to 5 
dollars; negroes about 400 dollars; cotton bagging 31% cents per 
yard. 

As to the state of society I cannot say much. The place is 
composed of people from all quarters, who are principally engaged 
in commerce; and a great number of the traders on the Ohio are 
constantly at this place, whose example will be nothing in favour 
of the young; and slavery is against society everywhere. There are 
several schools, but none of them are under public patronage; 
and education seems to be but indifferently attended to. Upon 
the whole, I must say, that the state of public morals admits of 
considerable improvement here; but, indeed, I saw Louisville at a 
season, when a number of the most respectable people were out of 
the place. Those with whom I had business were gentlemen, and 
I hope there are a sufficient number of them to check the progress 
of gaming and drinking, and to teach the young and the thought- 
less, that mankind, without virtue and industry, cannot be happy. 

Jeffersonville is situated on the opposite side of the river, 
a little above Louisville, and is the capital of Clark county, in 

™ „ ( 29 ) 



30 Early Travels in Indiana. 

the Indiana territory. It was laid out in 1802, and now contains 
about 200 inhabitants, among whom are some useful mechanics. 
The United States have a land office at this place, but the principal 
objects of my inquiry being more to the eastward, I did not visit 
it. There is a good landing at Jeffersonville, and, as the best pas- 
sage is through what is called the Indian Shute, it is probable that 
this place will materially interfere with the trade of Louisville, 
unless it be prevented by a plan to be hereafter noticed, in which 
case, each side will have its own share of the valuable commerce of 
this river; which, as it is yearly encreasing, cannot fail to convert 
both sides of the Ohio here into great settlements. 

Clarksville, a small village, is situated at the foot of the falls 
on the Indiana side, as is Shippingport, on the Kentucky side; 
and both answer for re-shipping produce after vessels pass the 
falls. 

The Falls, or rather Rapids of the Ohio, are occasioned 
by a ledge of rocks, which stretches quite across the river; and 
through which it has forced a passage by several channels. The 
descent is only 22 feet in the course of two miles, and in high water 
is only to be perceived in the encreased velocity of the current, 
when the largest vessels pass over it in safety. When I was there, 
the water was low, and I observed three different passages, of 
which that on the Indiana side, called Indian Shute, is said to be 
the best; the middle one next best; the one on the Kentucky side 
cannot be passed, except when the water is pretty full. But 
when the water is very low, they are all attended with danger, ess 
or more, of which we saw an instance in a boat that came down the 
river along with us. Her cargo was unloaded at Louisville, and 
she proceeded down the river; but, on taking the stream, she struck 
on the rocks, and lay there a wreck, when I came away. Good 
pilots have been appointed to carry vessels over the falls. 

On visiting this place, a question immediately occurs: Why 
is a canal not cut here, which would remove the only obstruction 
to the trade of this fine river? It appears that the subject has been 
long in contemplation, and a company was incorporated by the 
legislature of Kentucky to carry it into effect. The ground has 
been surveyed, and no impediment has been suggested to the 
execution of the plan, except that there is a danger of the locks 
being injured by the freshets in the river, which, however, can be 
guarded against. But sufficient funds have not yet been raised, 
and it is said that an opinion prevails here, that the execution of a 
canal would hurt the trade of Louisville. As to funds, there should 
be no lack, for this is an object of national utility, in which the 



JohnMelish. 31 

rich states of Kentucky, Virginia, Pennsylvania, and Ohio are 
particularly interested. No very great sum can be wanted to cut a 
canal, with only 22 feet fall, the .distance of two miles, in a situa- 
tion where stones are plenty; and if it is found that individuals 
would not wish to embark their capital in it, there is no question 
but the United States, and the individual states noticed, would 
fill up the subscription, were the matter judiciously laid before 
them. As to the supposition that it would hurt .the trade of Louis- 
ville, if it exists, it is founded on very narrow policy, and is just as 
correct an idea, as that a good turnpike road leading through a 
town, will hurt the trade of that town. A free communication 
through a country is favourable to every portion of that country; 
and were a canal cut upon the Kentucky side here, it would not 
only counter-balance the benefit arising to the other side from the 
Indian Shute, but would be productive of advantages to Louis- 
ville, that at present cannot be estimated. The mills alone" that 
might be erected, and set in motion, by a judicious application of 
the water, would be of more intrinsic value than a gold mine. 

The following table, exhibiting the commerce on the Ohio, is 
extracted from the Pittsburg Navigator, and shows the import- 
ance of this place, and the vast utility of a canal. 

Commerce of the Ohio from November 24, 1810, to January 
24, 1811. 

In these two months 197 flat-boats, and 14 keel-boats descended 
the falls of the Ohio, carrying 

18,611 bbls. flour 681 , 900 lbs. pork in bulk 

520 bbls. pork 4 , 609 lbs. bacon 

2 , 373 bbls. whisky 59 lbs. soap 

3 , 759 bbls. apples 300 lbs. feathers 
1 , 085 bbls. cyder 400 lbs. hemp 

721 bbls. cyder royal 1 , 484 lbs. thread 

43 bbls. cyder — wine 154,000 lbs. rope-yarn 

323 bbls. peach-brandy 20 , 784 lbs. bale-rope 

46 bbls. cherry-bounce 27 , 700 yards bagging 

17 bbls. vinegar 4 , 619 yards tow-cloth 

143 bbls. porter 479 coils tarred rope 

62 bbls. beans 500 bushels oats 

67 bbls. onions 1 , 700 bushels corn 

20 bbls. ginseng 216 bushels potatoes 

200 groce bottled porter 817 hams venison 

260 gallons Seneca oil 14 , 390 tame fowls 

1 , 526 lbs. butter 155 horses 

180 lbs. tallow 286 slaves 

64 , 750 lbs. lard 18 , 000 ft. cherry plank 

6 , 300 lbs. beef 279 , 300 ft. pine plank 
4,433 lbs. cheese 



32 Eaely Travels in Indiana. 

Also, a large quantity of potter's ware, ironmongery, cabinet- 
work, shoes, boots, and saddlery; the amount of which could not be 
correctly ascertained. 

The country round Louisville is rich, but it is not well drained 
nor cultivated, and is consequently subject to fever and ague in 
the fall. There are a great many ponds in the neighbourhood of 
the town; at one of them, I observed a rope-walk erecting and the 
people were draining the pond, by sinking a deep well, and letting 
the water run into it, which answered the purpose remarkably 
well. It would appear hence, that the water filtrates to the river 
below ground, and perhaps this plan might be generally adopted. 

I am persuaded that nothing but draining is wanted to render 
Louisville quite healthy, and one of the most agreeable situations 
on the Ohio river. 

Being now at the ne-plus-ultra of my journey to the westward. 
I shall here take a brief view of the western territories. 

INDIANA TERRITORY. 

Is situated between north latitude 37° 47' and 41° 50'; and 
west longitude 7° 40' and 10° 45'. Its greatest length is 284 
miles, and its breadth 155. Its area is 39,000 square miles; or 
24,960,000 acres. 

The face of the country is hilly, not mountainous, and the 
scenery is said to be rich and variegated, abounding with plains 
and large prairies. 

The principal river is the Wabash, which is said to be a beau- 
tiful stream, 280 yards broad at its outlet, and navigable upwards 
of 220 miles. It rises near the boundary line between the state of 
Ohio and the Indiana Territory, about 100 miles from lake Erie, 
where there is a portage of only eight miles between it and the 
Miami of the lakes. Its course is nearly south-west, and the dis- 
tance it runs, including its windings, is not less than 500 miles. A 
great many tributary streams flow into it, the chief of which is 
White river, upwards of 200 miles long. Tippacanoe river, near 
which are the largest settlements of Indians in the territory, falls 
into the Wabash ; and it is near the outlet of that river where the 
Prophet is at present collecting his forces. 

The soil is said to be generally rich and fertile. 

The climate is delightful, except in the neighbourhood of 
marshes, chiefly confined to the lower parts of the territory. 

The settlements commenced about 12 or 14 years ago, and have 



John Melish. 33 

made considerable progress, though they have been retarded by 
the settlement of the fertile and beautiful state of Ohio, which is 
situated between this and the old states. 

The greater part of the territory is yet subject to Indian 
claims. Where they have been extinguished, and the white settle- 
ments have been made, it is divided into four counties, and 22 
townships, the greater part of which are on the Ohio; and some few 
on the Wabash and White-water river. The inhabitants amounted 
by the census of 1800, to 5,641; they now amount to 24,520 being 
an increase of 18,879 in 10 years. 

The principal town is Vincennes, on the Wabash. It is an 
old settlement, and the inhabitants are mostly of French extrac- 
tion; they amounted, by last census, to 670. The greater part of 
the others have been noticed. 

The agriculture of the territory is nearly the same as that of 
the state of Ohio. Every kind of grain, grass, and fruit comes to 
maturity, and towards the southern pait of it considerable crops 
of cotton are raised, though only for domestic use. 

As the inhabitants make nearly all their clothing, they have 
•little external trade. What little they have is down the river to 
New Orleans. 

This, in common with the other territories, is under the imme- 
diate controul of the government of the United States. It has a 
certain form of government prescribed by a special ordinance of 
congress, by which the religious and political rights of the mem- 
bers of the community are guaranteed. In this ordinance it is 
declared: That no person demeaning himself in a peaceable and 
orderly manner shall ever be molested on account of his religion. 
The inhabitants shall always be entitled to the benefits of the writ 
of habeas corpus, and the trial by jury. All offenses shall be 
bailable, unless they are capital. Fines shall be moderate. 
Religion, morality, and knowledge, being necessary to good govern- 
ment and the happiness of mankind, schools and the means of 
education shall for ever be encouraged. Good faith shall always 
be observed to the Indians, and their lands shall never be taken 
from them without their consent. The navigable waters leading 
into the Mississippi and St. Lawrence, and the carrying places 
between the same, shall be common highways, and for ever free, 
as well to the inhabitants of the said territories as to the citizens of 
the United States, and those of any other states that may be 
admitted into the confederacy, without any tax, impost, or duty 



34 Early Travels in Indiana. 

therefor. Whenever any of the territories shall have 60,000 free 
inhabitants they shall be erected into a state, to be admitted, by 
its delegates, into the congress of the United States, on an equal 
footing with the original states. Slavery was originally pro- 
hibited, but the law has been relaxed in favour of the new- 
settlers who have slaves, and there are now 237 slaves in this 
territory. 



From Travels in the interior of America in the years 1809, 
1810 and 1811; including a description of upper 
Louisiana, together with the states of Ohio, Ken- 
tucky, Indiana and Tennessee, with the Illinois and 
western territories, by John Bradbury, [Liverpool, 
1817], pp. 307-10. 

Bradbury, John. 

John Bradbury, a member of the Liverpool Philosophical Society, and 
later, of the New York Philosophical and Literary Societies, came to the 
United States in 1809. for the purpose of making a botanical study of the 
recently acquired Louisiana Territory. He was encouraged in this work by 
President Jefferson and established his headquarters in St. Louis. For three 
years, 1809, 1810 and 1811, he was engaged in this work. His results were 
not published until 1817, due to loss of health which he suffered from the 
trip, and the war that occurred between the United States and Great Britain. 

The work represents an earnest attempt on the part of the author, and 
stands as one of the best scientific studies of the early days. 

The more northerly parts of the states of Ohio and Indiana, 
together with the whole of the Illinois and western territories, 
including an area of about 128,130,000 acres, comprehends that 
part which, in the beginning of this article, has been noticed as 
possessing a different character in its natural state. The original 
state of the region already spoken of was that of a continued 
forest, not convertible into a state fit for cultivation without 
great pains and labour. This region is an assemblage of woodland 
and prairie or savannas intermixed ; the portions of each varying in 
extent, but the aggregate area of the prairies exceeding that of the 
woodland in the proportion of three or four to one. The soil of 
this part is inferior to none in North America, or perhaps in the 
world. In a state of nature, these prairies are covered with a 
luxuriant growth of grass and herbaceous plants, affording a most 
abundant supply of food for the stock of the new settler; and it is 
worthy of notice, that any part of these "prairies, when constantly 
fed on by cattle, becomes covered with white clover and the much 
esteemed blue grass (Poa compressa) as frequent pasturing seems 
to give those plants a predominance over all others. 

In the geological formation, this country also differs in some 
degree from the one entirely covered with wood in its natural 
state. The surface is much more level, and the strata more reg- 
ular and undisturbed. In general the order of the strata is sand 
lying on sand-stone, afterwards lime-stone, beneath which is 



36 Early Travels in Indiana. 

argillaceous schist lying on coal. For the settler who is not habit- 
ually accustomed to the felling of trees, and who has the courage 
to fix himself on wild land, this is by much the best part of the 
United States, excepting Upper Louisiana. If he places his house 
at the edge of one of these prairies, it furnishes him food for any 
number of cattle he may choose to keep. The woodland affords 
him the materials necessary for his house, his fire, and fences, and 
with a single yoke of oxen, he can in general immediately reduce 
any part of his prairie land to a state of tillage. Had this portion 
of the country been placed at no greater distance from the Alle- 
ghanies than the woody region, it would undoubtedly have been 
the first settled; but being situated from 500 to 1,000 miles beyond 
those mountains, and separated from them by one of the most 
fertile countries in the world, the consequence is, that emigrants 
are so well satisfied with what advantages a first view of the coun- 
try presents, that they are anxious to sit down as soon as possible. 
Another reason why this portion of the wild lands has not been 
more rapidly settled, is the total indifference of the American 
farmer to the present or future value of coal. This arises in 
part from his prejudice against the use of it for fuel, but more 
from his want of knowledge of its vast importance to other coun- 
tries, and a consequent want of foresight. The farmer who is 
possessed of 500 acres of land, expects that in time it will prob- 
ably be divided into ten properties or farms by his posterity, each 
of which must be supplied with timber for fuel and fences: he 
wishes, therefore, that the land unreclaimed may remain covered 
with timber, as a reserve for posterity, although perhaps he has 
an excellent bed of coal at no great distance beneath the surface. 
Nothing so strongly indicates the superiority of the western 
country, as the vast emigrations to it from the eastern and 
southern states. In passing through the upper parts of Virginia, I 
observed a great number of farms that had been abandoned, on 
many of which good houses had been erected, and fine apple and 
peach orchards had been planted. On enquiring the reason, I 
was always informed that the owners had gone to the western 
country. From the New England states the emigrations are still 
more numerous. They mostly cross the Hudson river betwixt 
Albany and Newburg, and must pass through Cayuga in their way 
to Pittsburg. I was informed by an inhabitant of Cayuga, in 
April, 1816, that more than 15,000 waggons had passed over 
the bridge at that place within the last eighteen months, contain- 
ing emigrants to the western country. 



From A topographical description of the Indiana terri- 
tory, from Jervasse Cutler's Book of travels, 
Boston, 1812. 

Cutler, Jervasse. 

Major Jervasse Cutler was a son of the famous Reverend Manassah 
Cutler. Through his father, who was one of the three directors of the Ohio 
Land Company, he became interested in the western country. He first 
entered the northwest territory in 1788. He experienced all the dangers and 
hardships of a frontiersman; later entered military life, received the appoint- 
ment of major, and was later stationed at New Orleans. In 1812 he pre- 
pared and published a Topographical Description of the State of Ohio, 
Indiana Territory, etc. It combines his own observations, with the reports 
gathered from other travellers. 

This part 1 of the northwestern country was constituted a 
territorial government, by an act of Congress, passed the 7th day 
of May, 1800, and was bounded east wardly by the following line of 
separation; viz. "All that part of the territory of the United 
States, northwest of the Ohio river which lies westward of a line 
beginning at the Ohio, opposite to the mouth of the Kentucky 
river, and running thence to fort Recovery, and thence north until 
it shall intersect the territorial line between the United States and 
Canada, shall, for the purpose of temporary government, con- 
stitute a separate territory, and be called the Indiana Territory. 
And Saint Vincennes, on the Wabash river, shall be the seat of 
the government." Only the eastern boundary is named in the 
act, and the Indian claim of a large portion of the Territory is not 
extinguished. The whole tract, agreeable to this line, is bounded 
south by the Ohio, west by the Mississippi, and north by the line 
between the United States and Canada, which makes the extent 
of this Territory considerably greater than the State of Ohio. 

The general face of the country approaches to a level, but some 
parts of it are hilly. It has a number of large, navigable rivers 
meandering through it to the Ohio and Mississippi, and many 
smaller streams, some of which run into the lakes. 

The Wabash is a large river, rising near the head waters of the 
river St. Joseph, and the Miami 2 at the lakes, and running in a 
southwesterly direction empties into the Ohio, about four hundred 
and seventy miles below the Great Miami river. It is four hun- 
dred yards wide at the mouth, and navigable for keel boats, about 



1. Indiana Territory. 

2. Maumee. 



38 Early Travels in Indiana. 

four hundred miles, to Ouiatan, an ancient French village; and 
from this village, with small craft, to a portage on a south branch, 
which forms a communication with the Miami that runs into 
Lake Erie. This portage is eight miles, and comes to the Miami 
near Fort Wayne. 

From a north branch, by a short portage, a communication is 
made with the river St. Joseph, running into Lake Michigan. 
The Wabash is replenished with numerous tributary streams, and 
has generally, a gentle current above Saint Vincennes. Below 
are several rapids. Those which principally obstruct the naviga- 
tion are between Saint Vincennes and White river, called the great 
Rapids. Near the village Ouiatan, it is said a silver mine has been 
discovered, which it is apprehended will prove valuable. About 
forty miles below the village comes in the river Vermillion Jaune. 
On this river is the residence of the much famed Indian prophet. 
The town in which he lives is large for an Indian village, and has 
received the name of Prophet's town. Much of the land on the 
Wabash is rich and well timbered, but towards the head waters 
there is less timber, and very fertile and extensive prairies. A 
white and blue clay of an excellent quality is said to abound on 
this river. There are many salt springs, and plenty of lime and 
free stone. 

Saint Vincennes is a handsome town, about an hundred miles 
from the mouth of the river, situated on the east bank, upon a 
beautiful, level, and rich spot of ground. It is the largest town in 
the Territory, and is made the seat of government. This was an 
ancient French Fortress, called Post Saint Vincennes. Since 
the American revolution the town has been repaired and enlarged, 
and is now a very thriving place, but the inhabitants still are 
mostly French. There are more than an hundred houses, some of 
which are built of free stone, in a handsome styl 3, a considerable 
number of merchantile stores, a post office and printing office. 
Here, a profitable trade is carried on in furs and peltry. The 
situation is healthy, the winters mild, and the rich and highly 
cultivated lands around it are delightful. 

About forty miles from Saint Vincennes, in a southwesterly 
direction, is the Great Saline, so called, where salt, in large quanti- 
ties is made. It is situated in hilly land, on a stream of water 
which flows into the Ohio. The land is still owned by the govern- 
ment of the United States, but rented to those who carry on the 
salt works, and who are said to obligate themselves to make, 
at least, a certain quantity annually, and are not permitted to 



Jervasse Cutler. 39 

sell it for more than at a stipulated price. The waters in this 
Saline are said to have double the strength of those at the great 
salt springs on the Scioto river. 

The land on the Indiana side, bordering on the Ohio river, from 
the Great Miami nearly to the Mississippi, a distance of about 
six hundred miles, is generally hilly and broken, but some excellent 
bottoms, of different extent, are interspersed. From a small dis- 
tance above fort Massai and down to the mouth of the Ohio, the 
land gradually becomes level, forming a rich and delightful 
prairie. In this distance, there are many small streams, but no 
considerable river, excepting the Wabash, which falls into the 
Ohio. 

But on the opposite side, within a less distance three large, 
navigable rivers, besides numerous smaller streams, contribute 
their waters to the Ohio. The first is Kentucky river, which comes 
in about seventy miles following the bends of the river below the 
Great Miami, is ninety yards wide at its mouth, and the same 
width, when the water is high, eighty miles above. It is navig- 
able for loaded boats, at a high stage of the water, two hundred 
miles. The second is the Cumberland, or Shawnee river, which 
falls into the Ohio about five hundred miles below the Kentucky 
river, and four hundred miles below the Rapids, and is three hun- 
dred yards wide at its mouth. There being no obstructions, and 
having a fine gentle current, ships of four hundred tons can descend 
in times of floods from the distance of about four hundred miles 
into the Ohio. The third is the Tennessee, or Cherokee river, 
which enters the Ohio, about twelve miles below the Cumber- 
land; and is five hundred yards wide at its mouth. This is the 
largest river that empties into the Ohio. It is computed to be 
navigable for boats one thousand miles, and will admit vessels 
of considerable burden as far as the Muscle Shoals, which is two 
hundred and fifty miles from its mouth. 

On the Indiana side of the Ohio, there are only some scatter- 
ing settlements, excepting Jeffersonville, and Clarksville, two small 
villages, at the Rapids, one hundred and fifty miles below the Great 
Miami. Jeffersonville is situated in the bend of the river, on a 
high bank, just above the Rapids, where pilots are taken off for 
conducting vessels over them. It is a post town, but contains only 
a small number of inhabitants, and probably will never be a thriv- 
ing place. Clarksville is another small village immediately below 
the Rapids, and opposite the elbow at Shippingport. In time it 
may become a place of considerable business. On the opposite 



40 Early Travels in Indiana. 

bank, about midway between these two villages and opposite the 
Rapids, is Louisville, which is much larger, and bids fair to become 
a flourishing town. It is situated on an elevated plain, and con- 
tains about one hundred and fifty houses, a printing and a post 
office. It is a port of entry, and has a considerable number of 
mercantile stores, and several ware houses for storing goods. 
Shippingport is on the same side, at the foot of the falls. Here, 
boats generally make a landing after passing the Rapids. Ship 
building was begun and was carried on with considerable spirit 
here, until it received a check by the late embargo law. Having 
an excellent harbour, the situation appears eligible for prosecut- 
ing this business to advantage. 

The Rapids are occasioned by a ledge of rocks extending 
entirely across the river, and is the most dangerous place for 
navigation, in the whole extent of the Ohio river. The distance 
over them is about two miles, and the descent from a level above 
is twenty-two feet and a half. When the water is high the fall is 
only perceived by an increased velocity of the vessel, which is 
computed to be at the rate of about ten or twelve miles an hour. 
When the water is low, a large portion of the rocks are seen and 
it is then that the passage becomes dangerous. There are three 
channels. One is on the North side, called Indian Schute, and is 
the main channel, but not passable when the water is high; another 
is near the middle of the river and called the Middle Schute, and is 
safe and easy in all heights of water above the middle stage. The 
third is on the south side, called the Kentucky Schute, and is only 
passable when the water is high. Immediately above the falls, in 
the mouth of the Beargrass creek, is a good harbour, having twelve 
feet of water in the lowest stage of the river. At the foot of the 
falls is another harbour, called Rock Harbour, with water sufficient, 
at all times, for vessels of any burden. These two harbours are 
of the greatest importance to those who have occasion to navigate 
this dangerous passage. 

Opening a channel for the passage of ships by the Rapids has 
been seriously contemplated; which would be of immense advan- 
tage to the trade of the Ohio. That it is practicable cannot be 
doubted. The only difficulty seems to be to raise a fund sufficient 
for the purpose. It has been principally proposed to open the 
canal on the Kentucky side, to commence below the Beargrass 
creek, and enter the river below Shippingport, a distance of about 
one mile and three quarters; and that it should be sufficient for 
ships of four hundred tons. The ground through which it would 



Jervasse Cutler. 41 

pass is a stiff clay, down to within about three feet of the floor of 
the canals which then is a rock. The average depth of the canal is 
computed at about twenty-one feet, in order to admit a column 
of water three feet by twenty-four, at the lowest stage of the river. 

In the Ohio Navigator a very accurate description is given of 
the Rapids, with an excellent map of the falls. From this descrip- 
tion the account of them here given, is principally taken. To 
this very valuable work, the writer is indebted to many observa- 
tions respecting the Ohio and Mississippi rivers, and for much 
information in regard to the country bordering upon them. 

In passing down the Ohio, about forty miles below the Wabash, 
a curious cave is seen in a high bank, on the Indiana side. 3 Its 
mouth opens to the river, and when the water is high it nearly 
flows into it. The entrance is an arch in a rock about twenty- 
five feet high in the centre, eighty feet wide at the base, and extend- 
ing back from the opening one hundred and eighty feet. The 
mouth is darkened by several large trees growing before it, which 
gives it a gloomy and solemn appearance. Passengers usually visit 
it, and have engraved on the sides within the mouth, a great num- 
ber of names, dates and other inscriptions. Indian superstition 
and other fabulous stories reported respecting this cave do not 
merit a repetition. 



3. Indiana territory included all of Illinois at that time, the division being 
in 1809. 



From Travels through the western country in the Summer of 
1816, by David Thomas [1819], pp. 110-87, 
189-206, 207-33, 240-41. 

Thomas, David. 
An American pomologist, florist, and writer on agricultural subjects 
was born in Pennsylvania in 1776. He later removed to New York State 
and there became interested in engineering and exploration. In 1816, he. 
in company with Jonathan Swan — a merchant of Aurora — made a journey 
through the Wabash region in the New Purchase. When the "Travels" 
were published in 1817, Dewitt Clinton of New York was so attracted by 
them that he offered Mr. Thomas the position of chief engineer on the Erie 
Canal, for the district west of Rochester. As a florist and pomologist Mr. 
Thomas had few equals in the United States. He was a very important 
contributor to the Genesee Farmer, and did much to advance the science of 
farming in his day. 

At Meek's Ferry, below Lohary Island, we crossed the Ohio 
River, and landed in Indiana. We went down the flats half a 
mile, and stopped at the house of a man, from the state of New- 
York, who treated us to ripe morella cherries. The trees were 
large, and grew in two fine rows, which he assured us had only 
been planted five years. On my remarking the great height of the 
sandy flats, on which his house stood, he pointed to a mark on the 
wall, about four feet above the first floor, and observed, that the 
river had been there; and that they had taken refuge on the neigh- 
bouring hills. It is said that the difference between high and low 
water mark, sometimes equal sixty feet perpendicular; and our 
observations tend to give credence to this statement. The volume 
of water which pours down the channel at such times, must 
therefore be immense. 

Our path now led through bars into a vineyard of one or two 
acres, and the vines appeared thrifty. This road is only travelled 
by horsemen. The rank vegetation of the river flats crowded so 
close as sometimes to brush both sides of us as we rode along; and 
indeed everything conspired to remind us of being in a new 
country. After a traverse of three or four miles we came to the 
Rising Sun. 

This village, of forty or fifty houses, is built on an easy slope 
that fronts the Ohio. We recollect nO situation more pleasant. 
The buildings are not first-rate, but the town only claims, as it 
were, the date of yesterday. A floating grist-mill was anchored 
in the river, near the shore; and the float-boards of the water- 
wheel were turned by the current. 

(42) 



David Thomas. 43 

On leaving the river, we ascended the hills, the soil of which is 
very fertile, and the vegetation uncommonly fine. We had gazed 
at the majestic beech of this country, three feet in diameter, with 
branches of a great size; — we had seen the honey locust, the black 
walnut and the horse chestnut* of equal magnitude; — and here 
we saw, with surprise, the black locust almost a rival in stature, 
with grape-vines, like cables, hanging from the tops of the trees 
in every direction. 

6 mo. 30. — I have avoided remarks on our treatment, except 
where gratitude required us to treasure the remembrance. When 
our fare has been slim, and our bills high, we have passed on 
quietly, in the hope of something better. Occurrences of this kind 
are but trifles of a moment; and my only motive, for departing 
in one instance from this practice, is to give some information 
which the untravelled reader may wish to acquire. 

It does not appear that any regular tavern is kept on these hills; 
and as the chief part of the inhabitants have arrived since the war, 
at evening, we were induced to abide at the first place where food 
for our horses could be procured. Our host and his family were 
very civil and attentive; but on awakening from the first sound 
sleep, we despaired of all further repose. The bugs ran riot. Our 
friend D. S. who through condescension had taken the floor in the 
evening, with a saddle under his head, escaped the disturbance; 
but we were kept in a state of continual activity. Though greatly 
fatigued by travelling, we saw, through the chinks between the 
logs, the slow approach of the dawn with impatience, and long 
before sunrise resumed our journey. 

Our road led for several miles over high, level land, apparently 
cold and wet;— timbered with beech, white oak, &c. and soon 
becoming covered with briarsf where the fields are neglected. 
The aspect of things is discouraging to new settlers. What their 
progress will be, is uncertain; for though the soil is moderately 
fertile, and well adapted to grass, all the improvements are very 
recent and scattering. 

It is remarkable, that on descending from the tops of the hills, 
the soil becomes excellent. The fact is, that near the summit level, 
the superstratum is clay; but not more than twenty or thirty feet 

*This is called "the sweet buck-eye," to distinguish it from the kind which we first 
noticed on the Ohio. Dr. Drake has shewn these to be specifically distinct, and has 
named the former M. maxima. "It frequently arrives to the height of one hundred 
feet, and the diameter of four." 

■\Rubus villosus, or blackberry. 



44 Early Travels in Indiana. 

below it, there is limestone in horizontal strata. In the side of 
every declivity, at that depth, this rock appears; and by decompos- 
ing, imparts to the soil beneath it, a dressing of marl. These con- 
stitute a mixture of elementary earths Avhich cause perpetual 
fertility. 

This country, including much of that above Cincinnati, and 
all that we saw of Kentucky, is more destitute* of durable water 
than any other region that we have traversed. 

Plants, whose features are new to me, appear almost every day. 
Some occupy but a small region, while others are extensively 
scattered. The idea, that every district marked by small differ- 
ences of soil and climate, has plants and animals peculiar, presents 
itself at an early date to the naturalist. To-day, I first observed 
the southern Aralia (A. spinosa) and some are twelve feet high. 
No shrubbery should be without these singular and beautiful 
plants. 

The buffalo, or wild clover, grows abundantly among the bushes, 
on the fertile though narrow flats of a small brook, down which 
the road winds. It appears to vegetate earlier than the white 
clover; or at least, the seed is sooner ripe. 

The Columbo root {Frasera Walteri) which abounds between 
the Sciota and the Miami, is a large teirandrous] plant four or 
five feet in height. As a bitter tonic, I am told that it is much used 
by physicians in this country; and some consider it equal in effi- 
cacy to the imported. I first noticed it on the oak plains, west of 
the Genesee River; and it is also found on the hills round Short 
Creek; but we have seen none sinee we passed Cincinnati. 

Half a mile east of Indian Kentucky, we saw stones of the 
gun fllint kind, in the road. The surface is chalky, orange, or red. 
These form between the limestone, a regular stratum which spreads 

*Dr. Drake, in noticing that part of Kentucky which is adjacent to Cincinnati, 
remarks, that "wells cannot bo dug-on account of the limestone rocks, which, except in 
the valley of the Ohio, are everywhere found at the depth of a few feet." Water was 
very scarce, when we were at Boone Court House; and of this place he adds that 
"it is not likely to be of any consequence, as in summer and autumn, water, even for 
domestic use, cannot be had within the distance of two miles." 

It is evident that the Ohio River never wore these rocks away after the petrifac- 
tion was complete. 

tDr. Drake says that Professor Barton proposed to call it Frasera verticillata, and 
he has adopted the alteration. The nam*' is very appropriate. It is founded on one 
of the most striking fe*atures of the plant; for whorls of five leaves, a few inches apart, 
surround the purple stalk, in some individuals to the height of six feet. 

The former specific names are exceptionable. Walteri only refers to a book; and 
Carolinensis to one small district in which this vegetable is indigenous. Botanists, 
perhaps, have not sufficiently considered the impropriety of imposing such names on 
species which are scattered over extensive regions. 






David Thomas. 45 

over a large tract of country. Like the strata in Washington county, 
it is visible in both sides of every little valley that we crossed. 
The texture is .excellent; and these give fire with the steel equal to 
the imported flints; but the cracks, or lines of division, are numer- 
ous. Though these stones are silicious, the singularity of their 
situation, induced the celebrated Saussure to ask, if calcareous 
earth, in any circumstances, can be transmuted into flint? Cer- 
tainly not; but silex in solution appears to displace a large* por- 
tion of that earth, and to combine with the residue so silently as 
even in many cases to preserve the original formf of the stone. 
In vegetable petrifactions this earth is so accurately insinuated, 
that the sap vessels remain visible; and even the colouring matter 
of the wood is retained, as we observe in the Irish hone. 

Notwithstanding its hardness, much of this earth is annually 
held in solution to supply the demands of vegetation;! and Pro- 
fessor Davy has even shewn that the hollow stalked grasses derive 
firmness from this essential ingredient. 

As we approached the banks of Indian Kentucky, hearing 
shrill screams over our heads, we looked up, and first saw the 
parroquet. These birds, which are about the size of wild pigeons, 
are sometimes seen on the Miami. § 

This Creek now scarcely flows, though it has a channel wide 
enough for a heavj^ mill stream. Indeed, most of those through 
this country are very shallow, — bottomed on horizontal lime rock; 
and in some places, this stone has been whirled up by the water 
into heaps. The cavities thus formed are now ponds. It is remark- 
able that where horizontal rocks lie near the surface, the streams 
diminish greatly in drowths, whether these strata are calcareous 
or aluminous. 

The north-west side of the Ohio was a wilderness after the adja- 
cent parts of Virginia and Kentucky were settled; and the streams 
of these states were consequently named before many on the 
opposite side of the river were known to the white people. To 

*Wiegleb found gun-flint 80 per cent of silica. 

fDe Cazozy and Macquart have observed the transition of the Gypsum of Cracovia 
to the state of calcedony. — Dorthes has proved that the quartz in cockscombs at Passy 
owed its origin [shape] to plaster. CHAPTAL. 

Jit was long since discovered that silica (the earth of flints) was contained in 
vegetables: but it was commonly considered extraneous or accidental until professor 
Davy showed that many plants, without it, could not "support a healthy vegetation". 
From parcels of the following kinds of Corn, weighing two pounds each, scheoedeh 
obtained of this earth the annexed number of grains respectively: — Wheat, 13.2; Rye, 
15.6; Barley, 66.7; Oats, 144.2; and from the same quantity of rye-straw 152 grains. 

§ Drake says on the Sciota. 



46 Early Travels in Indiana. 

such creeks with the word Indian prefixed, the appellation of the 
southern branches are transferred; and thus we have Indian 
Short Creek, Indian Wheeling, and Indian Kentucky, which 
denote that Virginia Short Creek, Virginia Wheeling, and Ken- 
tucky River, join the Ohio in those respective neighbourhoods. 

On ascending the hill from this creek, we travelled several 
miles on a winding ridge, in many places only about the width of 
a turnpike, with gulphs on each side awfully profound. I estimate 
these hills at 500 or 600 feet above the Ohio River; and on all 
parts below the limestone strata, which appears on their sides, the 
soil is extremely fertile. 

This country, in general, is wretchedly cultivated; very little 
wheat appears, and corn constitutes their staff of life. But even 
this is greatly neglected; and wherever moderate marks of industry 
were observed, we felt pleasure from the novelty. We have 
never before seen so much difference in the growth of corn; 
some being scarcely six inches high, and some four or five feet. 

On the hill side which bounds the flats on the Ohio above 
Madison, I saw for the first time, a horse stripping bark. I had 
long since understood, that such practices prevailed in new parts 
of our south-western states, where these animals receive no food 
from their owners in winter; but we think it remarkable that bark 
should be preferred to grass. The nettle tree, (Celtis occidentalis) 
here called hack-berry, which grows in abundance over all these 
hills, is the favorite; though sugar-maple and some others do 
not escape. He had stripped the butt to the height of three feet. 

We had not seen the Ohio since we left Rising Sun, until we 
arrived on these flats, though we have chiefly kept within a few 
miles. Vevay, noted for its vineyards and Swiss inhabitants, is 
situate on the banks of the river, but our road led to the right. 

This morning the sun shone faintly through the thickening 
veil of clouds, and soon disappeared. Moderate rain without wind 
succeeded; and having travelled through it a long time, just before 
sunset, as the sky was brightening in the west, we arrived at' 
Madison, wet and fatigued. Here we met the members of the 
Convention, who had come from the eastern part of the state, 
now on their return home. Corydon, the seat of government, is 
forty miles below this village, which place they left this morning. 

36 miles. 

7 mo. 1. — Madison is the seat of justice for Jefferson county. 
It is situate on an upper flat of the Ohio, and back, a few hundred 
yards from the river. It consists of sixty or seventy houses, the 



David Thomas. 47 

principal number of which appear new. Indeed the larger part of 
the improvements which we have seen in this territory is of very- 
recent date. Many of these houses are small and of hewn logs. 

The jail is about twelve feet square, of the same materials; 
and, in aspect as well as in strength, forms a great contrast to 
those gloomy piles which older communities have erected in their 
own defence. With surprise we had also remarked one of similar 
appearance at Boone Court-house, in Kentucky; and though these 
buildings neither shine much in topographical description, nor add 
to the beauty of these villages, yet posterity, from such specimens 
will learn with interest the simplicity of new founded empires; 
for in a few years these will be only remembered. 

From the great number of small houses, and an apparent want 
of regularity in the streets, the aspect of this village is not impos- 
ing. With these impressions my companion asked one of the con- 
vention how long this little town had been laid out? Whether the 
dignity of the ex-member was offended by such approach, — or 
whether he thought his country undervalued, — -I leave for his 
biographers to determine; but assuming all the majesty of repul- 
sive greatness, he exclaimed "I hope you don't call this a little 
town." It is true my friend had seen some cities, if not characters 
rather greater, but we think this a thriving place, and from its 
situation on the river, will rapidly augment in wealth and popula- 
tion. 

We were pleased, however, with the affability and politeness 
of some of the gentlemen; and M. from Wayne county, informed me 
that a cave, near Corydon, contains a great quantity of Glauber's 
salt, amongst which nitre is intermixed. It is in high repute as a 
cathartic medicine. The quarter section, which includes the cave, 
has been lately secured by an individual. 

It has long since been ascertained that abundance of nitre 
is found in the limestone caves of this country, but it appears to 
be mixed in unusual portions, not only with this sulphate of soda, 
but also with the common salt. Hams, cured with that from 
Kenhawa, requires no particular application of nitre; and in red- 
ness and in flavor resemble those in New- York, where an ounce of 
this mineral is appropriated to each. 

This morning I noticed on a hand bill "the best qualified cut 
nails" advertised. This expression is a good match for that of "a 
well faculized person," so common in the eastern part of New- 
York state. No doubt both phrases are very convenient to those 
who are unused to better language. 



48 Early Travels in Indiana. 

The peach trees, near this town were finely loaded with fruit 
but those on the hills have been more injured by frost. 

The laborious operation of ascending the heights from the 
river, we performed, four miles west of Madison, but we believe 
the hills. are not so high as those in the neighborhood of Pitts- 
burgh. However, since we arrived in this territory, we have been 
compelled to trace many a long line, greatly diverging from the 
plane of the horizon. 

On reaching the summit, we travelled one or more miles over 
wet clayey land, similar to what we noticed yesterday on the 
heights. This plain gradually slopes at last, towards the Muska- 
kituck branch of the White River, which we crossed nine miles west 
of Madison, there flowing to the north-west. It is a common mill 
stream in size, bordered by handsome flats, and apparently comes 
from the Ohio, which is only four miles distant. I am assured 
that it heads within two or three miles of that river; and probably 
some of its branches have a greater proximity, but the circuit 
cannot be less than three hundred miles before its waters effect a 
junction. 

Oats are in blossom, but wheat and rye are almost fit for the 
sickle. 

The sides of the road where the soil is calcareous, are nearly 
destitute of grass. It has been a dry season, but we have no cause 
to believe that these vegetables ever obtained possession. We 
cannot solely refer this deficiency to climate, though its appear- 
ance is remarkable. 

Eleven miles west of Madison, we passed through a land of 
swales or drains, in the bottom of which limestone lies under a 
shallow coat of earth. Beneath this rock the water finds a sub- 
terranean passage. In some places the arch is broken; the cavity 
of the rock then appears four or five feet deep; and the stream 
along the bottom, alternately brightens into day, and glides 
beneath the vault, sheltered from the vicissitudes of this upper 
world. In some of these sinks or broken arches, no water was 
visible. 

New Lexington is seventeen miles west of Madison. It con- 
sists of forty houses, a few of which are handsome brick or frame 
buildings; but a great proportion are scattered back from the road, 
formed of hewn logs with a cobbed roof, one story high and one 



David Thomas. 49 

room on a floor. On their appearance I can pass no encomiums, 
though the whole has very recently sprung from the woods.* 

At this place the sign of the Lexington Bank was displayed by 
nine swindlers; several of them are now imprisoned. 

We were told that salt was manufactured near this place from 
water completely saturated with that mineral, but which is very 
limited in quantity. In order to obtain a better supply, a shaft 
was sunk about one hundred feet. At this depth brine appeared, 
similar in quality to what was procured before, and some of it 
was driven up to the surface by a wind which roared through 
caverns in the rocks. However, the water soon subsided; and 
though the proprietors have penetrated to the depth of more than 
seven hundred feet, the labour has not been crowned with suc- 
cess. The last two hundred feet cost $1,500. The boring was 
performed by machinery moved by a horse. The salt which is 
made here, sells for two dollars a bushel, but the quantity is not 
equal to the demand. 

Near this village we met a large drove of cattle, some of which 
we were told came from the Missouri. The great population and 
consequent demand for beef in Baltimore and in the cities to the 
northeast, not only attract the drovers from a vast distance, which 
would bring them on this line, but the ruggedness of the moun- 
tains in Virginia appears to turn the principal current of travelling 
as high up as Brownsville on the Monongahela. 

Another branch of the Muskakituck flows on the north east 
side of this village. 

At the Pigeon Roost, eight miles from Lexington, twenty- 
three women and children were massacred in the late war. It 
appears that the settlement was composed of several families near 
akin, who resided in houses contiguous to each other. The men 
who had given some offence to the Indians, were then all absent in 
the militia near Louisville, except one old man. On the last of the 
week, about two hours before sun set, while the women were iron- 
ing their clothes and the children were playing round the doors, 
the savages rushed to the attack. In this awful extremity, the old 
man endeavoured to protect them, till his gun-lock was broken 
by a ball. He then escaped, but the rest all perished. No part 
of this frontier, during the war exhibited such a scene of slaughter. 

Adjacent to New Lexington on the west, we saw the last of the 

♦Predicting from past movements, in a few years these villages will not be recog- 
nized from my descriptions; and these sketches, though imperfect, will then interest 
by shewing the march of improvement. 



50 Early Travels in Indiana. 

limestone; and five miles further on our road, clay slate is uncov- 
ered by a brook which flows to the northwest. The soil, through a 
space of twenty miles from this village to the Knobs, like the level 
country over which we have passed, is a loam inclining to a stiff 
clay, and moderately fertile. The timber is large, — chiefly beech 
intermixed with oak, poplar,* and sweet gum;f but to us the 
country is not inviting. There is scarcely one clearing of older 
date than last season. These are scattering, and in places we 
traversed intervals of forest five miles wide. At the brook that 
runs northerly at the foot of the Knobs, a soft clay slate appears 
in the bank, and no stone in all this distance was observable on the 
soil. 

We were informed at New-Lexington, that we should find no 
accommodations for our horses east of the Knobs. It was then 
past twelve o'clock, and we departed at the close of a heavy shower, 
on a brisker gait than we had usually travelled. But the uncer- 
tainty of lodgings, distant thunder in the west, dark clouds that 
concealed the sun, and the thick branches of a tall forest, con- 
spired to begloom our path. 

My nerves had thrilled at the name of the Knobs; for these are 
supposed by the celebrated Volney to constitute the west bank 
of a vast lake, which once covered all the upper country of the 
Ohio, and from which waters, successively were deposited, the 
sand, the shells, and the vegetables which have stratified that 
region with sand rocks, lime-stone and coal. We were therefore 
about to enter a scene peculiarly interesting. But these heights 
would interest without the aid of philosophy. As we approached 
the summit, the prospect assumed the features of sublimity. 
From the north, northerly round to the southeast, the line of the 
horizon was as smooth as if ruled by a pencil; but wild mountain 
heads projected in the opposite direction. This landscape though 
obscured by the rain, was rendered more awfully grand by the 
thunder and lightning which now flashed and rolled over us. 

These heights are several hundred feet above the country to 
the eastward. Observing some rocks not far below the summit, I 
alighted in the shower to examine them. I was induced to do this 
because their formation must have a powerful bearing on the 
theory of that writer, for whose talents I had conceived much 
respect, and who has been styled "a genius of the first order in 
physical geography." These rocks were of two kinds, calcareous 

♦Tulip poplar. 
fLiquidambar styraciflua. 



David Thomas. 51 

and silicious; and as both are of the secondary class, the inference 
is conclusively hostile to his hypothesis. 

The sides of these hills are deeply gullied, and the peninsulated 
points appear like ribs attached to the vertebrae. Some stand 
separate, or detached from the main mass, conically shaped; 
and high up the sides of one, a horizontal stratum of rock pro- 
jects, which has the appearance of limestone. The wearing of 
water on these piles in some distant age, must therefore have been 
very extraordinary. 

Chestnut grows near the base, and chestnut-oak on the peaks; 
but as we leave these, and advance westward where the soil is 
less exposed to the wasting action of winds and rains, the timber 
becomes nearly as thrifty as on the plains below; and papaw and 
spice-wood, as usual, constitute the principal underbrush. 

In the channel of a brook which flows southerly one or two miles 
west of the ascent, we saw many chrystallized stones, varying 
much in size and nearly spherical in the general form, though the 
surface is protuberant and irregular. These are usually hollow, 
break easily, and small chrystals cover the internal surface. I 
arrange them with the most recent secondary class of stones, as in 
one, a lump of limestone composed of shells, was found embedded. 

In the cabinet of specimens in mineralogy at Pittsburgh, if 
my recollection is distinct, there is a broken shell of this kind, which 
had been a prolate spheroid, twelve or fifteen inches long, eight or 
ten inches wide, and less than an inch in thickness. One part of 
the cavity is apparently coated with verdigrise. I have seen 
none here equal to that specimen in size. 

This day we travelled nearly forty miles, and about dark 
arrived at our lodgings, excessively fatigued. This was occasioned 
by our hurrying over the last twenty-three miles, without stopping 
to procure refreshment. 

On asking for supper we were told that the water in the well, 
on account of the rain was unfit for use. As we did not comprehend 
the reason why a moderate shower should be so injurious, I 
only notice the fact at present, and add that butter-milk ill sup- 
plied the place of more stimulating food which our exhausted 
condition required. 

7 mo. 2. — This house was fortified during the war, and several 
familes occupied it as a garrison. Log houses like this are readily 
converted into such fortifications by taking off the upper part 
down to the joists, and then building it up again with logs two or 
three feet longer. Such projections on every side are intended to 



52 Early Travels in Indiana. 

give the besieged an opportunity to fire down on the enemy, 
if he should attempt to force the door, or set fire to the building; 
but we are told that no instance of Indians making such attack 
is known. We had observed houses of this description, soon after 
our landing in the state, and we have noticed more or less every day 
since. 

This fortress had an appendage (and I believe it is generally 
so, when neighbours unite together) consisting of a picket fence 
which encloses the yard and extends the limits of safety. The 
construction is as follows; — Planks three or four inches thick and 
twelve or fifteen feet long are placed edge to edge in a trench which 
has been previously dug, and the earth then rammed closely 
round them. These are difficult to scale, and impenetrable to 
small arms. 

Cooped up in such lodgments, our frontier citizens have gen- 
erally weathered the storm of war; and when necessity compelled 
them to venture out, the men have gone armed in a body. On my 
remarking how unhappily they must have lived in such times of 
alarm, our host replied, "We enjoyed ourselves much better than 
you imagine, perhaps as well as we do now, — we were so kind and 
friendly to one another." These words of the old man were impres- 
sive; and I rode on reflecting, from how much real pleasure we are 
debarred by the jarring interests of this world. 

Our progress this morning was unusually slow, in consequence 
of the excess of yesterday; and our horses convinced us that they 
were suffering from sore feet. The circumstance in itself is a 
trifle, and will cease to interest us as soon as they recover; but the 
lesson ought not to be forgotten. At Circleville, we saw men from 
Dutchess county (N.Y.) who had been under the necessity of 
changing horses, once or twice, on the road; and another such a 
day's ride would compel us to a similar measure. He who wishes 
to avoid being left to the mercy of strangers (if mercy there be) 
should preserve an easy and regular gait through the day; and at 
whatever time his hackney shews unequivocal symptoms of 
fatigue, stop. In this exhausted condition, a small excess is hurt- 
ful, and a repitition often ruinous. A horse of common con- 
stitution, accidents excepted, will perform the circuit of the United 
States, if well fed and moderately used. 

Salem, where we stopped to breakfast, is a new village of thirty 
or forty houses. A small but handsome brick court-house for 
Washington county, built on arches, is one of the principal orna- 
ments of the place. 



David Thomas. 53 

One mile and a half north-easterly from this village, a monthly 
meeting is held by a number of Friends who are settled in this 
vicinity. 

At breakfast I was exposed to the infection of an eruptive 
fever, which, however, to me has never been a subject of much 
alarm; but my friend J.S. shewed such anxiety that I left the 
house with half a meal. To have a disease of such uncertain 
termination in a strange land, is not desirable; but the bearing of 
one event on another, and consequently, what will finally be best, 
is not given us to know. 

The uncertain tenure of our lives, at all times, ought also to 
mitigate our apprehensions of apparent danger. We walk in the 
midst of deaths; and with the dawn of each day the possibility 
returns, that those connexions which are inexpressibly dear to 
us will be dissolved before night. 

On the west side of this village, Blue River, which is here a 
small mill-stream, flows in a southerly direction. The banks con- 
tain horizontal strata of limestone, which is literally corn-posed 
of shells. 

The country westward of the Knobs, (or rather the summit 
level) though not hilly, is varied in surface; and has a looser soil 
than the low district to the east. Ferruginous sandstone, the 
stalagmites before noticed, excellent gun flints, and abundance 
of limestone are found. The two first kinds, in places, consid- 
erably encumber the soil. The flint varies much in colour; 
lumps three or four inches in diameter are embedded in the lime- 
rocks; and this sort in texture resembles the imported flint. 

We noticed many wells which were dug, in the bottom of 
limestone sinks; and generally the inhabitants obtain durable water 
with little labour. It is worthy of remark, that this elevated 
region preserves the same singular feature as the country round 
New-Lexington, which is several hundred feet below it; for, in 
no other district that I have seen would it be advisable to dig for 
water in a sink. 

Many of the settlers in this quarter are Carolinians; and some 
told us (probably with a reference to their native land) that "this 
is a miserably cold country." 

Our host, where we fed our horses, had been bitten by a copper- 
head some months ago, and was scarcely recovered. It was 
said, when we were in the state of Ohio, that the poison of this 
reptile, lingers a long time in the system, and eventually proves 
destructive to the constitution. The evil appears magnified; 



54 Early Travels in Indiana. 

but the opinion is common, that these are not less dangerous than 
the rattle snake; and we know they are much more difficult to 
exterminate. The dry hills of the Ohio country seem to be their 
favorite residence. We think however, that snakes are less num- 
erous, even now, than on the eastern side of the mountains. 

About 5 o'clock we arrived at J. Lindley's 1 for whom I had 
an introductory letter. His kind invitation to stay with him a 
day, we willingly accepted. 

This distinguished Friend removed from North Carolina about 
five years ago; and with a few others fixed his abode in the wilder- 
ness. During the late war, this little community formed the 
frontier; but its members appear not to have suffered either from 
fear or injury. He has frequently explored the lands beyond the 
borders of the settlement in the time of that commotion, and 
never considered either himself or his companions in danger. 
Indeed there was small cause. No instance of Indian hostility 
towards this society is known; so firm and inviolate has been the 
peace which the ancestors of these savages established with 
William Penn, and so faithfully is the memory of his virtues 
transmitted from sire to son. 

The wilderness, however, has now become thickly populated; 
and a monthly meeting is held a half a mile from his house; but 
we learn that no other meeting of Friends is established further 
westward. 26 miles. 

7 mo. 3. — We admired the refreshing coolness of last even- 
ing. We are assured that in summer, the heat of the day like 
what we experience is rarely oppressive; and seldom protracted 
beyond sunset. On the eastern side of the mountains, in this 
latitude, it is often uncomfortable till midnight. 

In our country, the rainy clouds in their approach, seldom vary 
from between the west and south-west points; but the lower cur- 
rents of the atmosphere frequently carry the scud in every direc- 
tion. Here we are told that both rain and snow arrive chiefly 
from the south-west; and that winds from the east of north or 
south are seldom known. 

This statement supports the opinion that we have passed 
beyond the influence of the great Lakes. Winds are often deflected 
for [from] their original courses by the sinuosities of the shore; and 
from this cause we sometimes find them blow in opposite direc- 
tions. 



1. Near the present site of Paoli. 



David Thomas. 55 

The surface of the land in this neighbourhood is uneven; but 
the elevations scarcely merit the name of hills; and much of it 
appears to be cellared. This feature is strong and perhaps peculiar 
to the western country. Nearly all the brooks are more or less 
subterranean. In places, the arch is broken for small distances, 
and the stream visible; but Lost River, to the north of this place, 
wholly disappears for seven miles; and though this natural 
bridge is destitute of the sublime scenery of Cedar Creek it 
stands unrivalled in width. 

Many of the brooks may be traced by a line of sinks. These 
in heavy rains become ponds, in consequence of the narrowness 
of the channel* through the rocks — into some of which the cur- 
rent boils from below, while others receive the torrents that col- 
lect on the land; and in all, the water not undergoing the process 
of filtration,- — partakes of all the impurities of the surface. To 
this cause I ascribe the state of the well which we noticed in the 
evening after we ascended the Knobs. 

But we have reason to suspect that this water, even when 
limpid is prejudicial to the health of strangers. In us, it uni- 
formly induced a sense of weight in the stomach, and others have 
made similar complaints. We discontinued its use. 

It is probable that the Salt Petre caves] in Kentucky are on the 
same level with those near New-Lexington; but these around 
us, as I have remarked, are in a different stratum, notwithstand- 
ing the sameness of appearance. We are informed that one cavern 
in that state has been explored for ten miles; and without dis- 
missing all doubts of this statement, we may be allowed to remark 
that Lost River proves that some in this vicinity are surprisingly 
extensive. I observed a sink of one or two acres which was only 
a few feet in depth, and evidently occasioned by the falling of the 
cavern roof. 

We rarely observe any natural cavity in the land which would 
hold water except in two cases. The first consists of the basins 
of lakes, which are generally on a large scale, and formed either 
by the irregular projection of primitive rocks, or by the unequal 
deposition of alluvial matter. The second case comprises those 
cavities of small extent which were produced by a depression of 

*Our friend, who has a mill on a large spring, finds great difficulty in forming a 
pond, on account of fissures in the limestone that surrounds it. 

tCramer in noticing Harden's Creek in that state, 112 miles by water below Louis- 
ville, and southeasterly from this place, remarks that "Sinking Creek, a branch of that 
stream, after heading in three springs and running several miles, sinks, and runs about 
four or five miles under ground before it appears again." 



56 Early Travels in Indiana. 

the friable earth. Of these we observe that their formation belongs 
to a period since "the dry land appeared;" and such are chiefly 
confined to districts that embosom limestone. Perhaps the only 
exception to making this remark general, will be found, where 
primitive rocks loosened by some convulsion of nature, have pro- 
miscuously fallen together and then been covered by earth. 

The cavities of calcareous regions belong to two classes. The 
first will embrace depressions of the surface where the earth has 
sunk into caverns, through small apertures in the roof, and hence 
assuming the shape of a funnel. These appear wherever lime- 
stone in great quantities is present, without any regard to the 
primitive or secondary formation. The second class obtains where 
the earth over beds of gypsum has gradually settled. The 
solution of that salt in five hundred times its weight of cold 
water, removes all obscurity from this point; but the cause of 
caverns in common limestone is more difficult to elucidate. 

It is not probable that this earth remained in its pulverulent 
form while the masses around it hardened into rock; and that after- 
wards it was removed by water. United with different acids, 
however, it varies exceedingly in its degrees of solubility. Though 
carbonic acid renders it an insoluble precipitate in water, yet the 
same agent in excess completes its solution ; and vegetable matter 
fermenting in confined situations might furnish the supply. 

The nitric and muriatic acids combining with lime also pre- 
serve it in solution; and by displacing the carbonic acid may have 
taken possession in latter periods. Neither should the combina- 
tion of sulphuric acid be overlooked. Perhaps all these agents, in 
different places, have assisted in forming the caverns which abound 
in this rock; and some circumstances render it probable that the 
process of excavation is continued. 

The hard water, so common in limestone districts, proves that 
the rocks through which" these currents flow are wasting by solu- 
tion. The impregnating material is chiefly plaster; but nitrates 
and muriates of lime, which only exist in a liquid state, are some- 
times discovered: and perhaps have been recently formed. The 
carbonic acid which is found disengaged in the earth under the 
name of damp, and which is also emitted by some fountains, sup- 
ports this idea; but without such decomposition, clearly shows 
that water with this addition may become a solvent of limestone. 

, This view will be less imperfect, when we consider that new 
sinks frequently appear in such regions. The earth on those 



David Thomas. 57 

spots had been settled and compact for thousands of years; and 
its sudden depression evinces a recent breach in the cavern roof. 

It will be obvious that the depth of the cavern will greatly 
assist in determining the figure of the sink. In the lower parts of 
Pennsylvania, where the quantity of earth over the aperture is 
very considerable, it generally assumes the form of an inverted 
cone. Here where the cavern is near the surface, the longitudinal 
breaches in the roof are more apparent, and that figure is rarely 
observed. 

The limestone in this neighbourhood is composed of small 
shells which differ from all that I have noticed to the eastward. 
One stone, from the minuteness of these remains, resembled a 
mass of mustard seed. — The cement was ochre. 

Half -Moon Spring * which we visited this morning, is a curi- 
osity. The aperture of the fountain is thirty feet deep, and three 
rods in diameter; but the basin is more extensive. The name is 
derived from its semi-circular figure. Uniting with the current 
of J. Lindley's mill spring, half a mile to the northward, it forms 
Lick Creek, a beautiful stream. 

The Section [or square mile] that includes this fountain is 
public property; being Lot No. 16, which in each township through- 
out the territory, is appropriated for the use of schools. Leases of 
such lands have been granted only for short periods; and in con- 
sequence its value for water works, probably will long remain 
unrealized. Though the fall of its current is small, yet by raising 
a curb, it might doubtless be converted into a valuable mill seat; 
and the firm and level surface round it would favor such an under- 
taking. 

East of New-Lexington we had found limestone in the bottom 
of swales, which formed an arch for subterranean brooks. The 
late heavy rain has unfolded the cause of this singular appear- 
ance. As soon as the cavity is filled, the surplus water bursts 
from the sink-holes, forming ponds where the sink is deep, but 
flowing over where the sides are low. Thus we have a double 
brook; and the upper current, sweeping away the leaves has also 
channelled out the land. 

. Coal is found two miles from J. Lindley's, but of its quantity 
and quality but little can be said at present. Salt springsf of 

*This spring is forty miles west of Louisville. 

tOn the map in range 1 west, Township 6 north, the reader may find marked a 
Salt Lick. J. Lindley, to whose kindness I am indebted for much valuable informa- 
tion, says in his letter of 2 mo. 2, 1818, that they are at work at this lick; and that the 
prospect is encouraging. 



58 Early Travels in Indiana. 

value, on the New Purchase, north of this place, have been par- 
tially examined; but as the Government of the United States reserve 
the lands which include such, if known before the sale, individuals 
who explore, deem it prudent to be silent on these subjects. After 
the sales much more may be learned of the fossil treasures of this 
country. 

The inhabitants of this neighbourhood preserve much sim- 
plicity of dress, and like members of the same family, feel an interest 
in each others welfare, in the inverse ratio of the parade exhib- 
ited. Such manners are characteristic of new settlements; and 
notwithstanding the privations to which this period is subject, 
those who have risen to independence not unfrequently recall in 
memory these days as the happiest in life. 

Apparel, however, should vary with the state of society. To 
wear that of which we are neither proud nor ashamed is the best 
rule that can be given; and who departs from this maxim has a 
mind directed to improper objects. 

Our horses had been put to pasture where the grass was chiefly 
timothy, yet salivation was induced. The cause of this disease has 
been hitherto unexplained, though it would be difficult to enum- 
erate all the opinions on this subject. Several of these, however, 
are absolute crudities; and much objection will attend the best 
that have been assigned. 

It appears that thirty years ago, this malady was unknown in 
the United States. Near Philadelphia, it was first observed about 
the time that clover and plaster were generally introduced; and 
to these it was naturally ascribed. To this theory the present 
case will completely fix a negative; and in our county where 
horses suffer much from this disease, plastered clover, in fields 
recently laid down, does not induce it. On the reverse, in white 
clover pastures, which have never received a sprinkle of that 
manure, the salivation has been distressing. 

By some, the Lobelia inflata or wild tobacco, has been charged 
as the cause; by others, the Euphorbia maculata, or spotted 
spurge; but both plants are indigenous, and must have occupied 
the old fields near the sea coast almost a century before this 
disease was known. Others have spoken of the venom of spiders. 
The question, where were they forty years ago? will instantly 
occur; neither would this hypothesis explain why the grass of one 
field will salivate profusely, while that in another field not two 
yards distant, may be eaten with impunity. Nor can we learn 
why these plants or animals should be more venomous after a 



David Thomas. 59 

shower; yet this phenomenon is very observable. If it be said that 
the insects have sheltered in the grass, we should reflect that a 
better shelter might often be found across the fence, and that the 
insects would venture forth on the return of fair weather; but for 
several days much acrimony is apparent. 

The same objection will arise against ascribing it to dews. 
We have not been able to discover why these should not descend 
alike on the adjoining fields where a single fence constitutes all 
the partition; yet I have noticed at Cayuga, that horses in new 
fields are generally exempt; and the same remark applies to 
meadows annually mowed. 

In the afternoon we visited T. Lindley, whose interesting 
family we shall remember. It is now the middle of wheat harvest, 
and only this concern deprives us of his company to the Wabash. 
He has appropriated a field of several acres to the culture of 
tobacco, and the prospect is encouraging. 

Lands partially improved rate at twelve dollars an acre. 

Sugar maple is found throughout all the Ohio country; and 
from it sugar is generally made in quantities sufficient for home 
consumption. We have seen little of this article from New- 
Orleans since we left Pittsburgh. There the retail price is from 
twenty-three to twenty-five cents a pound. 

It appears that Kanhawa Salt, with few exceptions, supplies 
at least all the country above the falls of Ohio. Near the river the 
current price has been six dollars a barrel. In the manufacture 
much slovenliness is evident, and we presume that no pains are 
taken to separate the ochreous matter which floats in the water, 
for the whole mass is tinged of a dirty red. The snow-white 
salt of Montezuma is obtained from water equally impure. 

The parroquet commits depredations on the wheat in harvest, 
but it is a bird of uncommon beauty. The head is red, the neck 
yellow, and the body a light green. 

In the evening we returned with J. L. to our former lodgings. 

In this neighbourhood an earth resembling bole is employed 
as a red dye for cotton. It is squeezed through a linen bag into 
an alkaline solution; and requires the same time as indigo to per- 
fect the colour. 

The trees, in this neighbourhood, are chiefly beech and sugar- 
maple; but the quantity of timber to the acre, varies considerably 
in different places. The papaw forms the underbrush, and by 
closely shading the ground with its broad leaves, nearly excludes 
the herbage. 



60 Early Travels in Indiana. 

Iron ore is found in many parts of this country. It is mentioned 
that two furnaces* will soon be erected, at the respective distances 
of eight and sixteen miles west of this place. 

7 mo. 4. — About nine o'clock this morning, we took leave of 
our kind friends, and proceeded on our journey. Three or four 
miles west of J. Lindley's, the land is hilly; and near the summit, 
a reddish sand rock overlays the limestone. It may be noticed, 
though such appearances are not uncommon, that on the hills 
above the limestone level, there are no sinks; but on descending 
the western side to that level, these depressions are visible. Strata, 
however, are not so regular in this district as towards Pittsburgh. 

After a ride of ten miles, we arrived at the French Licks. 
This place is a reservation, lately owned by the United States, 
but now transferred to Indiana. I oberved three sulphur springs,] 
one of which was more strongly impregnated than any that I 
have seen. We thought these waters were slightly tinctured with 
salt and iron. 

From the base of a high bank of limestone that bounds this 
vale on the west, a large spring of fresh water breaks forth, and 
flows eastward between the other fountains. As we paused on the 
north bank of this stream, our hourses immediately strained down 
their heads, and began to lick the ground. We now perceived that 
the stones had a whitish coat, like frost; and which, on tasting, we 
discovered to be common salt, apparently free from impurities. 
This recalled the remark of H. Davy, that "rock salt almost always 
occurs with red sandstone and gypsum." The sandstone, in its 
proper colour, is found on the spot; and though we have no proof 
of the presence of gypsum, sulphur springsj in New- York are one 
of its indications. 

The celebrated Saussure had previously enquired, why salt 
mines§ are found near mountains of gypsum? Perhaps the answer 
to be given, will be, that both are confined to regions of secondary 
formation. No strata of gypsum are known of an older date than 

*J. Lindley, in a letter of 2 mo. 2, 1818, says, "The furnaces talked of when thou 
wast here, have not been built." 

fSeveral others are found in the adjoining woods. On our return I filled a bottle 
with this water, which at that time was limpid; but in a few hours it became milky 
and the fetid smell was lost. It is well known to the chemists that hydrogen is a 
solvent of sulphur, and that the appearance here noticed, results from the escape of 
that gas. The mineral no longer soluble, floats in the water. 

JThough sulphurated hydrogen is not a constituent of gypsum, it abounds in all 
the best plaster stone of Cayuga. Water, in which this mineral is diffused, soon be- 
comes sulphurous. 

§"To examine the reason of the singular connexion observed between mines of 
salt, or salt springs, and mountains of gypsum." See his AGENDA. 



David Thomas. 61 

limestone which contains shells; and in this remark salt may be 
included. 

The coincidence, however, is curious; and prevails in our coun- 
try as well as on the eastern side of the Atlantic. Saussure could 
not have been acquainted with this fact when he wrote; but the 
western district of New- York is now equally famous for its salt 
springs and its quarries of plaster. 

Such springs are properly ascribed to water which has fallen 
in rain, and which by soaking through saline earth, or by flowing 
over salt rocks, is gradually wasting the mine. Indeed, it is prob- 
able that in regions of secondary formation, many fountains, now 
perfectly sweet, were originally brackish. This opinion is strongly 
supported by the fact, that the salt springs of the present day, 
have been commonly found to ooze through coverings of mud, in 
low, marshy situations without any visible outlet; and though 
Onondaga may furnish an exception, yet it is well known that 
subterranean waters, sometimes acquire new outlets by earth- 
quakes. 

This place is the favorite residence of the parroquet, flocks of 
which were continually flying round. These birds seem to delight 
in screaming. 

We observed that the stream from these Licks soon becomes of 
a pale whitish blue, like a mixture of milk and water; and we had 
previously noticed, that Lick creek, and its other branches had 
acquired the same colour. To these appearances, probably, we 
owe the names of White water, White river, Blue river, &c. 

Westward, the country is still more rough and hilly, and much 
of the soil is encumbered by sand rocks. This district resembles 
the roughest of the sandstone region north of Pittsburgh. Fine 
springs issue from the hills; and once more we enjoyed the luxury 
of pure cold water. 

Near the top of a hill two miles westward, over which our road 
led, the inhabitants procure whetstones, which, it is said, are equal 
in quality to the Turkey oil-stone. The grit is extremely fine and 
sharp. 

From the position of this quarry, on the top of a high ridge, 
I conjectured that the sand had not been deposited by water, but 
collected by the wind, previous to its petrification; but whether 
the horizontal arrangement will form a sufficient objection to 
this view, must be left undetermined. 

Six miles west of the Lick, the land is less rugged, and some 
tracts are handsome. 



62 Early Travels in Indiana. 

We came to Lick creek, ten miles west of these Licks. Swelled 
by the late rains, it was too deep to ford, though only three or 
four rods wide, and we passed it in a ferry boat. At this place it 
flows to the north-west. 

As the last gleamings of day were departing, we arrived at 
Schultz's near the Driftwood Branch of White River. 

Though we have been several days on the frontiers, we find 
some change of manners at every remove. Tonight our horses, 
with many others, were turned loose, in a yard, to a great trough, 
bountifully replenished with Indian corn; and though oats is far 
better adapted to their habits, and though their treatment has 
always been a subject of solicitude, we felt much satisfaction in 
effecting our escape from the dark shades of a thick forest. 

26 miles. 

7 mo. 5. — This tavern is a recent establishment. The pro- 
prietor formerly from Pennsylvania, but latterly from Seneca 
County in New- York, has adopted the eastern mode of clearing 
land, and at once lays it open to the day. The pleasantness of the 
prospect, the safety of the cattle and the excellence of the crop, — 
which now promises to exceed by one half every other that we 
have seen in the country, — will strongly recommend this method 
to his neighbours; but we fear there will be more admirers than 
imitators. 

At this place, we saw the under jaw of a Mammoth, in which the 
teeth remain. Though large, it is not one of the largest. It was 
found in the channel of the river nearly opposite to the house. 

Since the discovery of the Mammoth, on the coast of Siberia, 
in the year 1808, conjecture respecting its figure is confined within 
narrow limits; while the place of its abode is involved in much 
obscurity. The situation in which it had lain, cased in ice, for 
thousands of years, shews that it floated thither. This inference is 
clear and regular; and perhaps the best evidence, that these 
quadrupeds belonged to our continent, is not furnished by the 
circumstance that their remains have been discovered at the Big 
bone Lick, but that there were strong inducements for them to 
frequent it. 

Currents of water have swept over this country in a period 
comparatively recent; and the establishment of this fact has a 
tendency to weaken our faith in the opinion that New- York was 
once the residence of this creature. The bones discovered near 
Springfield, N. J., by my ingenious friend C. Kinsey, under a 
covering of six feet of solid earth, shew at least that great changes 



David Thomas. 63 

have taken place in the surface", since the deposition of these 
remains; and perhaps it will be difficult to account for this inhuma- 
tion* in any way so plausibly as by a reference to that deluge, 
which has left its traces throughout our land long since the exis- 
tence of air-breathing animals. 

Corn, on the west branch of White River, now sells at twenty- 
five cents a bushel. 

About sunrise we resumed our journey. Weakened by dis- 
ease, I was indulged with a walk to the river, while my companions 
were preparing the horses, whither they were soon to follow. 

Last evening we had heard the noise of falls at the distance of a 
mile or two over the hills; and on approaching, I found the water 
to pitch down about four feet over a level sand rock, extending 
straight across the river. The thick woods on the opposite shore, 
the clear sky, the smooth expanse of water, the foam of the cas- 
cade, and the unbroken quiet, formed one of the sweetest scenes 
of solitude. 

Avoiding the force of the stream, small fish in great numbers 
had come in close with the shore; and eager to ascend the little 
currents from ledge to ledge, were so crowded together that I 
could take them up by hand-fulls. 

On these banks I first saw the red trumpet flowerf growing 
indigenously. 

Yesterday we were joined by a genteel Kentuckian, who was 
also proceeding to Vincennes. He was from Shelby ville; and had 
attempted to travel the upper road, which leads more directly 
west from Cincinnati. That route, however, he found to be 
impassable from the quantities of fallen timber and under-brush; 
and after advancing nearly forty miles was compelled to retrace 
his steps. 

Our company arriving, we forded the river a few rods above 
the falls. The level sand rock is uncovered two thirds of the 
distance over, except by water; and the remaining third seems 

*Large bones (probably of this creature) have been found near the great western 
canal in the town of Manlius. One of the contractors in a letter to me of 5 mo. 15, 
1818, says, "For the embankment across a swamp, I have taken earth from a small 
hill. At a depth varying from eight to twelve feet, we found muscle shells in abundance, 
with bones of some large animal. One half of a tooth weighed 2 lbs. 6 oz." 

Dr. Drake remarks, that "on the upper table on which Cincinnati is built, a joint 
of the back bone of one of these species was found at the depth of twelve feet from the 
surface." 

We have no reason to believe that these remains, in either case, would be buried at 
such depths in the common order of nature. 

fBignonia radicans. On our return I found this plant in Madison County, (Ohio) 
but the size was diminutive. 



64 Early -Travels in Indiana. 

paved with muscle shells of a large size. The breadth of this beau- 
tiful stream we estimated at 150 yards. The upland adjoining 
it is good, and the hills retiring, admit flats of moderate extent, 
which are thickly timbered. 

After ascending the hill, which may be 100 feet high, we passed 
through open oak woods into an extensive plain or prairie. Here 
such are called barrens, but improperly, for the soil is very fertile. 

These openings present a striking contrast to the eastern parts 
of the continent, which were shaded by forests; and the cause has 
become a subject of general speculation. The thrifty growth 
of timber, which is found through this country in many places, 
proves, that though the woodlands decrease as we advance west- 
ward, the cause ought not to be attributed to climate. Indeed we 
have never seen, to the eastward, more timber on the same extent 
of ground than many tracts in this vicinity exhibit, if we except 
groves of white pine. Our search must therefore be confined to 
the soil, and to circumstances entirely incidental. 

To me it is evident that the immediate causes of these wastes 
are fire and inundation; but the predisponent cause (if physicians 
will allow the expression) is either an impenetrable hard-pan, or 
a level rock. At page 98 I have noticed the wet prairies. The 
same rock, extending under the drier parts, confines the roots, 
and intercepts the supply of moisture that sub-soils generally 
contribute. The trees, thus stunted admit amongst them a 
luxuriant herbage; in autumn it is speedily dried by the sun 
and wind, and the underbrush perishes in the annual conflagra- 
tion. Near the borders sufficient evidence of this was often before 
us in the stools of oak, with shoots from one to six feet in height, 
which were blasted by recent fires. 

These tracts are generally situate near the height of land. On 
the bordering ridges, the timber attains a moderate size, and the 
adjoining declivities also produces it of the usual height; but 
trees, encircled by these wastes, are uniformly stunted. 

In all the wells which we saw in these plains, a hard sla^ - rock 
was found at the depth of a few feet. 

The soil is various. Clay is not uncommon; in some places 
sand predominates; but a fertile loam will give the general char- 
acter. 

These lands may be subdued at a small expence. Near all 
that we have seen, materials for fencing, at present may easily be 
procured, and a strong team, with a good plough, would readily 



David Thomas. 65 

overturn the tea plant and the hazle. I saw not one stone on the 
surface. 

Water may be procured in wells of a moderate depth; but in 
some, the quality is injured by foreign matters. In one, copperas 
is so abundant as greatly to discolour clothes in washing; and the 
proprietor assured me it would make a good dye. 

Several habitations have been lately erected; but we saw no 
improvement which induced us to believe that the occupants had 
much capital. 

Over these plains I saw the dodder (Cuscuta) for many yards 
round, entangling the herbage. This singular vegetable germin- 
ates in the soil, and ascending a few inches, takes hold of the first 
plant it can reach. The root then perishes, and it becomes 
parasitic. On breaking the stem, I have observed the pith to 
contract, which brought the epidermis together and closed the 
wound. What I broke to-day, however, was rigid; and perhaps 
this contraction only happens at an earlier period of its 
growth. It is extremely injurious to flax. This circumstance has 
claimed some attention of the farmer; and strange as it may seem, 
some have believed that the dust of flour mixed with flaxseed in a 
bag would infallibly produce it. 

In the more clayey parts of these prairies, we saw heaps of 
earth as large as a bushel, which are inhabited by a little animal 
of the mole kind. We found none of the proprietors abroad, 
and we were not prepared for invasion. Their name, in this quar- 
ter, is gopher.* 

As we were descending from the prairie, I observed a halt in 
the front of our company; and on riding forward, found our Ken- 
tucky friend engaged in destroying a large, rattle-snake. This was 
the first venomous reptile we had seen on the journey, except two 
that lay dead in the road. I believe we have not seen half a dozen 
snakes of any kind. 

Having travelled sixteen miles we took breakfast at Liverpool, 
[now Washington] a village of three houses. Our landlord was 
from Kentucky; and it appears that state has furnished much of 
the population of this district. 

Here the peach-trees were loaded with fruit. We had pre- 
viously observed that west of the Knobs, the frosts had not been 
injurious; but fruit trees between these points are scarce. 

♦Perhaps gauffrc. "Only two species [of Diplosttffna] are known as yet, and they 
have been discovered and ascertained by Mr. Bradbury. Both are found in the Mis- 
souri Territory. They burrow under ground and live on roots; and are called gauffre 
by the French settlers." C. P. RAFINESQUE. 

T— 5 



66 Early Travels in Indiana. 

Throughout all this western country, it is the fashion amongst 
the middle or lower classes to salute us by the name of "stranger." 
The term may often be strictly proper, and it is seldom, if ever, 
accompanied by rudeness; yet the practice is so ungraceful, that we 
shall enter our protest against it, the authority of Walter Scott to 
the contrary notwithstanding. 

A good tract of woodland extends three miles to the West 
Fork of White River. This stream in size and appearance resembles 
the other branches. Rapids of equal height, also are formed by a 
sand rock which occupies the whole bottom of the river, and at 
both places the direction is straight across. On this rock we 
forded. 

No hills appear between Schultz's and Vincennes, excepting 
those that bound the flats on the rivers. It is seventeen miles 
from - the West Fork to that turn, and much of the eastern part of 
that distance is prairie. Several miles east of the Wabash, we 
entered woodlands with a more diversified surface. 

Observing a plumb tree, filled with large red flowers twelve 
feet high, I turned from the road to take a fairer view, and with 
surprise beheld a rose bush resting its vine-like stem on the 
branches to that height. The blossoms are in clusters; and as the 
colour varies with age the appearance is beautiful. I have seen 
this shrub almost every day since we crossed the Sciota, and believe 
it might be trained to the height of twenty feet. 

Two miles from Vincennes we descended into the prairie that 
spreads round that town. Here the prospect over level land 
became extensive; low hills appeared in the horizon, while in the 
intermediate ground, the academy, rising above the range of 
buildings, imparted a cast of grandeur to the scene. Backward on 
our left, two mounds of extraordinary size, rose from the hill at 
the edge of the prairie. These seem to overlook the country, and 
resembled in this respect the monuments of the ancient Greeks. 

Around both urns we pil'd a noble tomb, 

that all 

Who live, and who shall yet be born, may view 
Thy record, even from the distant waves. 

Cowper's Homer. 

These remains of antiquity shew that this plain has been the seat 
of wealth and power; and though it is now only the frontier town 
of a new race, it will probably long retain a superiority over the 
towns and cities of this country. 



David Thomas. 67 

After sun set we took lodgings in this ancient capital of the 
West. 36 miles. 

7 mo. 6. — Vincennes stands on the east bank of the Wabash, 
a beautiful river, 300 yards in breadth. The site is a sandy plain 
resting on gravel. No flat, subject to inundation, intervenes; 
and a margin of rounded stones gradually slopes to the water. 

This town embraces a great extent of ground; but large 
gardens, near most of the houses, leave it but small claims to com- 
pactness. It is decorated with a few good buildings of frame and 
brick; but there are many of logs and plaster, on which we can 
bestow no commendations. 

Every valuable or elegant improvement is recent; for although 
this place has been settled almost a century by the French, we 
have remarked that the mode of business first adopted by new 
settlers, long continues to operate; and the history of this town may 
be cited as an example. A few hunters associated with Indians 
were the first white inhabitants; and though after the lapse of a 
few years several Canadian families arrived; and though they 
retained much of the national politeness, it appears that the cabin 
bounded their views in architecture, and corn purchased of the 
natives has frequently preserved their existence. 

This primitive indolence, though lessened in appearance by 
the influx of a northern population, is still conspicuous; and I sus- 
pect in some measure contagious. Several enclosures are filled 
with Jimson* as high as the fences; and without this notice, a 
view of the town would be incomplete. 

But perhaps a traveller never commits greater injustice than 
in generalizing his remarks; for the meritorious and the unworthy 
will be found in all districts, and in all communities. Neither am 
I unapprised that in reviewing these inhabitants, there are many 
considerations to soften the severity of criticism. 

The precepts of charity require that man should be judged by 
his own moral principles. And, the point at which he stops in 
one state of society, may be censurable, while in another state, 
to have advanced to that point, may be merit of the first degree. 

Separated from the civilized world by immense forests, this 
people were estranged to its comforts, its ambition, and, doubtless, 
to much of its crime. Avarice had small opportunity to amass 
treasure, and the love of splendour could be very partially gratified. 
If, then, we consider that the two main-springs of action in civilized 
society were wanting, we shall cease to wonder at this result. 

*i. e. Jamestown weed, the thorn apple (Dalura stramonium.) 



68 Early Travels in Indiana. 

But in addition, they were a conquered people. The British 
kept a garrison in their town for a number of years; and since the 
Anglo-Americans arrived, they have often been exposed to Indian 
hostilities. Indeed when we consider the paralizing effects of such 
a state, and that partially it has continued till the present time, 
our censures should be sparingly pronounced. 

At the time of determining the streets, no correct idea could 
have been formed, of the increase of population and of conse- 
quence that await this town. A want of sufficient room in some 
has accordingly been the result; but this inconvenience, in a few 
years, will be more sensibly felt. Paving has not been com- 
menced; and though the soil is sandy, these avenues are occasion- 
ally incommoded by mud. The houses are built on different 
squares, but are more extended along the river. The number we 
should estimate between 200 and 300. 

This plain is very fertile. Although the sand is clear or white, 
the "finely divided matter" is so abundant as to give a black 
colour to the mass. In such gardens as are well cultivated, the 
vegetation is luxuriant. Drouths are slightly felt. The soil is so 
absorbent, and the loose substratum admits the ascent of moisture 
so freely, that though rain has been withheld eleven weeks, we 
saw small traces of such extreme. 

Modern geographers have assigned fine grass to this plain. 
Such an idea is easily acquired by inference; because a rich soil, 
like this to the north east would produce fine grass, — but the 
error is striking. Indeed, sufficient proof might be educed to shew 
that on this spot none ever vegetated. The herbage chiefly 
consists of perennial weeds with spaces of naked earth between, 
which coarse wild grass, probably once occupied. 

On the bank of the river I found several petrifactions. One of 
these in grit and colour resembled the white part of the Irish 
hone. The tree that gave it shape had been six inches in diameter; 
and this fragment contained one fifth of the circumference. The 
bark had been removed. The surface left by that covering retained 
its smoothness; and the different annual growths were distinctly 
visible. 

About ten o'clock we commenced our journey up the river 
towards Fort Harrison. Near the town I counted seven small 
mounds. Adjoining these a bank and ditch remain which once 
belonged to a small fortress or store house, probably erected since 
the arrival of Europeans. All this bank of the river is beyond the 
reach of inundation. 



David Thomas. 69 

We soon passed into woodland. Fort Knox once stood on this 
bank, two miles above the town; but the site is now only discover- 
able by excavations, remnants of old chimnies, and hewn timber 
scattered over the ground. The soil, though dry and gravelly, 
produced, wherever the trees had been thinned by the axe, briars* 
of luxuriant growth; and the blackberry was now ripe. 

From a bank a little further up the river, a thick stratum of 
sandstone projects. It contains mica, like that at Pittsburgh 
which is formed into grindstones. 

Yesterday, seven miles east of Vincennes, I noticed mica 
slate, and at that town several waggon loads of this stone were 
lying in a heap; but I could not learn whence it was brought. 
From its appearance on the south shore of Lake Erie, and in all 
the principal ridges of the Allegany, it is probable that the sec- 
ondary strata, throughout the Ohio country, rest on this rock; 
but whether it projects in places through these strata,- — or whether 
the small quantities which I observed were brought by the great 
northern deluge from the ridge that divides the waters of the Ohio 
and St. Lawrence — can only be determined by the position of 
these masses. 

The stems of the Trumpet-flower at White River were diminu- 
tive; but here these plants had climbed up many of the trees to 
the tops; and the large reddish blossoms extending beyond the 
branches, presented objects uncommonly novel and beautiful. 

[A just medium between cool reserve and colloquial freedom, 
in recording travels, is a desideratum. It is true, our interest in the 
welfare of the traveller increases as he unfolds his pleasures and 
his sufferings; but still there is an insipid triteness, and a minute- 
ness of detail that we wish not to hear. We care not whether he 
loves fat meat or lean; carries a cane, or walks with his hands in 
his pockets. Such facts are of no value. It must be confessed, 
however, that the temptation to egotistic prolixity is great; and, 
ware of this danger, I should be deterred from retaining the fol- 
owing paragraph, did it not convey instruction which ought not 
to be withheld.] 

Since we ascended the Knobs, my health had been gradually 
declining. My stomach was the seat of the disease. Paroxysms 
of that distressing sensation, which physicians have denominated 
anxiety, had daily increased; and my friend J. S. had marked the 
change with silent apprehension. On descending into the first 
flats of the river, it returned with violence, and I entreated my 

*Rubus villosus. 



70 Early Travels in Indiana. 

companions to prepare an emetic without delay; but the proposal 
was rejected, for the air was replete with putrid vapour, the sky 
overcast, and the ground wet with the late rain. In this comfort- 
less extremity, without the means of preparation, I applied 
dry pearlash to my tongue till the skin was abraded, taking it 
rather in agony than with hope. The relief, however, was sudden : 
the fomes of fever was neutralized, and my recovery seemed 
like enchantment. 

[Repeated doses of this alkali in a few days completed the cure; 
and since, I have frequently witnessed its efficacy on others. Its 
action is chiefly chemical. In acidity of the first passages it is 
invaluable; in dysentery it has ranked as a specific; and though no 
medicine deserve this encomium, yet it has speedily afforded 
relief in numerous cases of that dreadful disease. 

A lump, the size of a hazelnut, dissolved in half a gill of water, 
is a small dose for an adult; but when there is much acid, more 
pearlash will be necessary to neutralize it; and in such cases twice 
that quantity may be taken with safety, if the solution be suffi- 
ciently diluted.] 

Eight miles above Vincennes, we passed from the woodland 
flats into the south end of the prairie that extends up to Shaker- 
town. Old driftwood and weeds encumbered the soil, which was 
black and very fertile; but we could not believe that human beings 
could frequent it in summer and enjoy health; yet we saw huts 
that were inhabited on the border towards the river. 

As we advanced, the prospect became more inviting; and we 
discovered what we had not before learned, that these celebrated 
prairies are the upper or second flats on the river. The surface is 
undulated*; and at once we assent to the opinion, that it owes 
its form to some preternatural deluge. The back channel, or 
bayou, through which the water flows when the currents of the 
creeks are checked by the river floods, unquestionably had the 
same origin. The level part of this channel is several rods wide, 
and in many places it was covered by standing water; yet we saw 
no spot that appeared miry, and the cattle, which were feeding in 
considerable numbers, passed over without difficulty. The sides 
of the bayou slope so gradually, that except in the lines of drift- 
wood no traces of inundation are visible. 

The advantages that these natural canals afford in times of 
flood have not been overlooked; and boats often pass up the coun- 
try at the distance of one or two miles from the river. 

The path, which in places scarcely served to direct us, led along 



David Thomas. 71 

the eastern side of the bayou; and after riding a few miles, we 
gained a beautiful ridge on which we stopped to refresh our horses. 
Hard wild grass scarcely one foot high, thinly scattered among 
weeds, constituted the pasturage. Were we to judge only from 
this appearance we should not fix the estimate of its fertility very 
high; but Indian corn of a most luxuriant growth, as high as the 
fences, presented a remarkable contrast; and the looseness and 
blackness of the soil on that eminence, which for ages has been 
above the river floods, excited our admiration. 

To the west, the land rises from the bayou for a considerable 
distance; and the summit, crowned with trees, hid the river from 
our view. On the east side of this prairie, several farms appear 
which were probably located for the convenience of timber, as we 
saw none where the proprietors had ventured far out into the 
plain. This tract is from one to three miles wide, and ten or twelve 
miles in length; and the novelty, beauty, and extent of the pros- 
pect had a very sensible effect on our spirits. 

The wind met us, on entering this prairie, and continued so 
regular as to remind me of the current from a fanning-mill. Like 
the clouds that move in the superior regions of the atmosphere, 
it was exempt from the flaws and whirls that prevail amongst hills 
and vallies. 

Shakertown, the residence of the Shakers, consists of eight or 
ten houses of hewn logs, situate on a ridge west of the bayou, 
eighteen miles above Vincennes. The site is moderately elevated. 
As we approached, the blackness of the soil, and the luxuriance of 
vegetation, was peculiarly attractive; but much water was stand- 
ing on the low grounds to the east; and a mill-pond on Busseron 
Creek, of considerable extent to the west, must suffuse the whole 
village with unwholesome exhalations. In addition, the first 
flats of the Wabash, extending one mile west from the creek, are 
frequently overflowed by the river. 

The number of inhabitants is estimated at two hundred, who 
live in four families. 

Pondering on the evils of this mortal life, some have doubted 
whether it was given in wrath or in mercy;* and though we are 
not authorised to assert, that this sect has been influenced by 
darksided views of our nature, yet marriage is prohibited. From 
dancing, as an act of devotion, their name is derived. Like several 
other sects, they conform to great plainness in apparel, but their 
garb is peculiar. In language they are also very distinguishable. 

♦Jefferson's Notes. 



72 Early Travels in Indiana. 

It appears that all complimentary phrases are discarded; but 
they never use the second person singular in conversation, or say 
yes or no, substituting for the latter terms yea and nay; and 
tho' I contend with no man about his religious principles, —believ- 
ing that in every nation he that worketh righteousness is accepted, 
— yet I could not resist the impression, that they had mistaken 
the antiquated style of King James the first for the original lan- 
guage of the Scriptures. 

In their dealings they are esteemed as very honest and exem- 
plary. Until within a few months they entertained travellers 
without any compensation; but the influx has become so great that 
they have found it necessary to depart from that practice. 

The estate at this place consists of about 1,300 acres. The 
mills, which they have erected, are a great accommodation to this 
part of the country, a,nd to these they have added carding machines. 

A field of sixty acres of wheat on the north side of this village? 
has just been reapt, and put up in shock. The crop is excellent. 

Indigo and cotton, to the extent of a few acres, are cultivated; 
and the plants appeared in a thriving state. The products* 
are wholly designed for home consumption. It is not pretended 
that these articles would afford a profit on exportation; but it is 
deemed economical to raise a sufficiency for this numerous family. 
The price of Tennessee cotton would be enhanced by the carriage 
hither, and the profits of this cotton would be reduced by its 
transportation to a market. The same reasoning will apply 
to the indigo with this additional circumstance: it is only macer- 
ated, and the fabrics to be coloured are then introduced. Much 
labour in preparing it is consequently saved. 

These people settled here before the late war; but after their 
estate was ravaged by the troops who went with Hopkins on his 
expedition, they sought refuge amongst their own sect in Ohio 
and in Kentucky, and only returned last summer. They have a 
fine young orchard of grafted apple trees; and their nursery is 
considered as the best in the country. 

Their neat cattle are numerous. Their flock of sheep consists 
of some hundreds, and a shepherd with his dog and gun is employed 
as a guard. 

Sweet -potatoes grow remarkably well in this black sand. 

The common potatoe flourishes most in a rich soil, watered by 
frequent showers; but though the late drouth has been unfavour- 

*About 150 lbs. of clean cotton is produced on an acre. 



David Thomas. 73 

able, the appearance of this plant is much finer than some of our 
travellers had induced us to expect. 

Water is procured from a well between twenty and thirty feet 
deep. In digging they found the sand coarser as they descended, 
until it terminated in gravel so loose, that to prevent the sides 
from falling, it became necessary to work in the hollow trunk of 
a buttonwood,* which they introduced; and which settling as the 
gravel was removed, ensured their safety, and now forms the wall 
of the well. It ought to be repeated, however, that wood soaking 
in water always injures the quality. 

The extensive flat, between Busseron Creek and the River, 
abounds with the Pecan, f a species of hickory. The nut is super- 
ior in delicacy of flavour, and the shell is so soft as to yield to com- 
mon teeth. The Indians, as well as the white inhabitants, have 
gathered it in great quantities; a market is found for it in every 
considerable village of this country; and at the falls of the Ohio, 
the current price has been four dollars a bushel, or twenty-five 
cents a quart. 

On our arrival, we found a young man of genteel appearance, 
from Kentucky. His intention had been to explore the country up 
the river, but he concluded to direct his course to the Missouri, 
giving it as a reason that farmers in this territory must perform 
their own labour. 

After procuring some refreshment, we resumed our journey. — 
turning eastward, and nearly at right angles to the river, intend- 
ing to visit M. Hoggatt, to whom we had been directed by our 
friends at Lick Creek. He resides on a farm belonging to the Shak- 
ers, at the distance of seven miles. 

The configuration of this district is so different from the regions 
to the east, only excepting some small tracts near the borders of 
the Sciota, that we seem to have arrived in a new world. Where- 
ever the surface of the ground has been broken, the blackness and 
depth of the soil excite our admiration. Neither is there any thing 
delusive in this appearance, for the growth of the crops fully equals 
any expectation we could form. 

Three miles from Shakertown, we passed a field which con- 
tained the harvest of two seasons. Last autumn the Indian corn 
had been cut near the ground, and put into well banded shocks. 
Wheat was then sown amongst them; it had produced a fine crop, 

*Platanus occidentalis. The sycamore. 
tPronounced Pek-kawn. 



74 Early Travels in Indiana. 

and this was now also standing in shocks, — a clear inference that 
provisions are plenty. 

Plants which are not found in the eastern parts of the United 
States are very numerous ; perhaps three fourths of the herbage is 
of this description. I noticed three species of Helianthus? one of 
which is a remarkable plant. It grows six feet high with a disk 
nearly three inches in diameter, and the leaves much resemble the 
fern. Observing it first near the Sciota, before the stalk had arisen, 
I even believed it to be one of this curious assemblage. Nature, 
like water poured on a plain, though spreading into varieties in 
every direction, is partial to particular forms; and perhaps this 
partiality is evinced in nothing more than in fern leaves. 

A small though beautiful species of Hollyhock is scattered over 
the prairie. Its blossoms are a fine red. At first sight, I 
considered it an exotic; but it may be a native, for it is found 
in the wildest situations among the groves. 

From this prairie we ascended a ridge, — not steep, and of a 
moderate elevation, — thinly shaded by small trees. The sand 
continues, but a diminution of fertility is immediately discern- 
ible, though the district eastward may be called a tract of good 
land. It is composed of some ridges of that description with inter- 
vening vales. Beyond, the prospect opened into a clayey prairie 
of great extent, which is nearly destitute of Inhabitants. 

We shall not be surprised if many situations in this district 
prove unhealthy. The streams have low banks and in heavy 
rains, spread wide through the vallies, but the water may be easily 
led off, whenever it shall be undertaken with spirit, and in such 
business the scraper would be eminently useful. 

As we advanced across the prairie, we saw horses, neat cattle 
and swine, scattered over it in considerable numbers, and moving 
about in different directions. Though we had seen much of such 
openings, our relish of the novelty was unsated; and these feel- 
ings were not diminished, when we saw across this great but uncul- 
tivated plain, — on the remote border of the civilized world, and 
where only log cabins have appeared legitimate — a spacious brick 
mansion in front of the woodlands. This evinces a spirit of 
improvement highly commendable. 

In several places the land was gullied, and afforded an oppor- 
tunity to observe that the black soil is nearly two feet deep; 
and that it rests on a substratum of yellowish clay. If this part 
was more remote from the sandy prairies, it would rank higher in 
the estimation of farmers. 



David Thomas. 75 

In the evening we arrived at our intended lodgings, where we 
met a cordial welcome. Hospitality is a strong characteristic of 
southern manners; and our friend, to an enlightened mind, has 
added the sympathies acquired by travel. 

This, and two other families who live adjacent, constitute all 
of the society of Friends now known to be residents near this 
river. 25 miles. 

7 mo. 7. — Last night we had a heavy storm. In the evening 
the wind and scud were easterly, but the approach of thunder 
and lightning from the west, proved that the upper currents of 
the atmosphere move from that quarter. This morning was 
overcast, with an east wind, — evincing that counter currents 
similar to those on the east side of the Allegany Mountains pre- 
vail even here. 

Our friend has resided between two and three years on this 
farm. On his first removal from North Carolina, he fixed his 
abode at Blue River; but came hither to explore the lands of the 
New Purchase previous to the sale. These lands have excited 
much attention, but various circumstances have conspired to 
prevent the surveys from being completed. 

It will be recollected, that the expedition to Tippecanoe 
resulted from the dissatisfaction of the Indians, to the treaty in 
which their title to this tract became extinguished; that hostili- 
ties on their part commenced in the spring of 1812; and that 
after the defeat of Proctor, and the death of Tecumseh at Mo- 
ravian town in upper Canada, the Indians sued for peace. The 
treaty that followed, however, did not restore tranquillity. A 
Potawattamie chief, reposing confidence in that arrangement, 
proceeded to Vincennes; but the next morning he was found dead 
in the street, into which he had been dragged, and his skull frac- 
tured apparently by clubs. On this occasion it was remarked, that 
though Indians often kill each other, their weapons are the knife 
and the tomahawk. The perpetrators of this outrage remained 
undiscovered. The chief was buried with the honours of war; but 
the light in which the Indians viewed the transaction was soon 
disclosed by the murder of several white settlers. After this retal- 
iation, though hostilities were discontinued, yet perfect cordial- 
ity was not restored till the treaty at Fort Harrison in the present 
season, One of the surveyors who had been deterred by these 
unfavourable circumstances from fulfilling his contract, is now 
out with a company. 

These last acts of violence happened since our friend arrived 



76 Eakly Travels in Indiana. 

at this place, and several of his neighbours were sufferers. The 
case of one young man is too extraordinary to be omitted. Riding 
out to hunt cattle, he passed near Indians in ambush, who shot 
him through the body, and he fell from his horse. As the savages 
advanced to scalp him, he recovered from the shock; ran with his 
utmost speed, warmly pursued; and in the moment of extremity 
when his strength and breath failed him, his horse, which had 
loitered behind, came up on full gallop and allowed him to 
remount. He effected his escape, recovered from his wound, and 
is now living. 

This farm consists of 1,000 acres. The soil contains little sand, 
and is consequently more favourable to some crops than the 
Prairies near the river. We are told that timothy flourishes; but 
a drowth, the longest known in many years, which only ceased a 
few days ago, — and the army worm, which has ravaged the mead- 
ows, — prevent us from forming a proper judgment from our own 
observation. By the same creature, the corn has perished twice 
this season. 

These animals, which have committed similar depredations in 
the eastern part of Ohio, bear some resemblance to the grub- 
worm; and are regarded as periodical. The name is derived from 
their moving by myriads in one direction. Some fields and 
meadows have been saved by deep furrows, in which logs were 
constantly drawn by horses, so long as these devourers continued 
to approach. In this manner thousands on thousands have been 
destroyed. 

Wood, for fuel and for fences, is an object of such importance 
to the farmer, that none is yet found willing to forego that con- 
venience, and to seat himself out in the prairie. On this account, 
a stranger is liable to err in judging of the population, for we find 
the eastern border of this tract thickly inhabited. 

To satisfy the claims of the old French settlers, the United 
States directed to be set apart, all the lands bounded on the 
west by the Wabash River; on the south by the White River; on 
the east by the West branch; and on the north by the north bounds 
of the Old Purchase. Four hundred acres was assigned to each 
person entitled to a donation. The land has never been surveyed 
by order of the government, consequently it has never been regu- 
larly performed; and the maps of this territory within these bound- 
aries are generally blank. 



David Thomas. , 77 

All lands held in this quarter are therefore under French* 
grants. In locating, it was necessary to begin at the general bound- 
ary, or at some corner of lands, the lines of which would lead 
thither; but no course was given, and the claimant settled the 
point with his surveyor as he deemed most to his interest. These 
claims have been the source of considerable speculation; but the 
principal part is now located; and it is expected there will be a 
large surplus of land, soon to be surveyed by the United States. 

Many of these tracts will be destitute of timber fences. In 
some parts of the Grand Prairie, which extends from the Wabash 
towards the Mississippi, we are informed that ditches are advan- 
tageously constructed. The sods are placed on the edges in two 
parallel rows, with the turf outward; the loose earth from both 
trenches is employed for filling; and the strong roots of the wild 
grass on vegetating, bind the parts firmly together. 

It appears that this prairie has not been ravaged by fire for 
some years; and in various parts, but more especially near the 
eastern border, shrubs and young trees begin to shade the soil. 
Their scattered situations, with the injuries received from cattle, 
give them a stunted aspect. From these circumstances it will be 
difficult to judge what quality of timber this prairie would pro- 
duce; but where it terminates on the east in a stately wood of 
honey locust, sugar maple, blue and white ash, I can perceive no 
change of soil. Neither have I discovered any marks of an imper- 
vious subsoil; and must ascribe the destruction of the ancient for- 
est, with the wastes below Meadville, to conflagration. 

This opinion may be explained by a few observations. Near 
some part of every prairie that we have seen, whether clayey or 
sandy, there are trees of diminutive size; and though not always 
distant from each other, the sun and air has such access that the 
dampness which prevails in forests, is generally unknown. The 
leaves and herbage, consequently become highly combustible; 
and the flame driven by brisk winds, will enlarge the boundaries 
of the prairie. Several instances of this have been before us. The 
small timber has been destroyed, and many large trees have been 
partly burnt. The cause why this prairie extends close to the tall 
wood on the east, will doubtless be found in these circumstances; 
for though windfalls would let in the sun and air, and be attended 
by a similar diminution of moisture, we recollect no such tracts 
in the Western Country. 

The Columbo Root grows here in great abundance. 

*I have since learned that some militia claims were located in this tract. The 
residue is directed to be sold on the 1st of 9th mo. 1818. 



78 Eaely Travels in Indiana. 

In winter when hay and corn have been scarce, some farmers 
in this district have driven their cattle towards the White River. 
The woods shelter them from the winds; and abound with grass, 
bearing the name of that season, which is evergreen, two or three 
feet in height, and extremely nutritious. In spring, the droves 
return home literally fat. This advantage, however will be tem- 
porary. 

Every district, marked by small diiferences of soil and climate, 
has plants and animals peculiar. This remark which occurred 
at P. 113, is well exemplified by these wastes, and we have already 
learned the names of several new quadrupeds. 

The prairie wolf is half the size of the common wolf, and it is 
believed to be specifically distinct. It is confined to the prairies, 
and burrows in the sandy earth. The colour is grey. The legs are 
short, flat, broad, and stronger in proportion than the common 
wolf. It has not been known to injure domestic animals; but when 
sheep are more generally introduced, it will doubtless acquire new 
habits. 

Its motion is slow; and when discovered out in the prairie 
far from its burrow, is easily run down by horsemen. One was 
pursued, and so much exhausted in a mile, that the men leapt 
from their horses, and dispatched it with clubs. 

The gopher has been mentioned. 

The prairie squirrel in size and colour nearly resembles the 
grey squirrel, but the legs are shorter. It is only found in these 
districts and burrows like the prairie wolf. 

It was suggested by some men of observation that, as these 
creatures are only found in the prairies, such land must have been 
in this state since the creation. But I cannot perceive that this 
conclusion is necessarily implied. We have no facts to shew that 
land destitute of timber is essential to their existence; we only 
know that their manners at present are best adapted to such 
scenes. Indeed we have strong reasons for doubting the correct- 
ness of this inference. We have no evidence of original prairies, 
except those that were formed by excess of moisture. We have no 
evidence of dry prairies, before conflagrations became regular: 
in other words, before the arrival of human beings on this con- 
tinent. The persimmon, the tea plant, and every other tree that 
can bear the annual bearing, shoot up in abundance; and if such 
were undisturbed by fire, by cattle and by culture, these wastes 
in fifty years would be shaded by forests, — not lofty indeed, but 
such as sand resting on gravel would nourish and support. 



David Thomas. 79 

The grey squirrel, the ground squirrel, and the flying squirrel, 
are found native, but do not appear to be numerous. To this list 
should be added the fox squirrel of the southern states. 

The deer, the elk, the wolf, and the bear, inhabit the woods. 
The panther has been rarely discovered, but the wild cat is num- 
erous. 

In the brown rabbit, which has frequently bounded across 
our path, I recognized an old acquaintance, and with it associated 
the remembrance of early days. This quadruped appears to be 
very numerous. 

7 mo. 8. — The weather of both yesterday and to-day, has been 
unfavourable to travelling, as showers have been frequent, though 
the wind and scud are from the east. This circumstance, with the 
unaffected kindness of our friends, has induced us to remain 
stationary. 

At Vincennes I observed a curious fly-flapper. The construc- 
tion is simple, and in hot weather the fresh air that attends its 
motion, is scarcely less agreeable than relief from these trouble- 
some insects. Its position is over the centre of the table. 

Two strips of lath three feet long, with a hole in the lower end of 
each to receive a gudgeon, are first prepared. A broad board with 
a gudgeon so placed in each end, that one edge shall always prepond- 
erate, is then connected with the strips. To that edge a piece of 
linen one foot wide is fastened; and a handle, eighteen inches long, 
projects from the opposite edge. The upper ends of the laths are 
then nailed at the ceiling, and a small cord attached to the handle 
communicates motion to the instrument. 

A joint in the laths near the ceiling would afford the conven- 
ience of elevating or removing it at pleasure. 

The privileges granted to the Canadian Volunteers have occa- 
sioned severe strictures on the general government; and in travel- 
ling one hundred and fifty miles, we have conversed with but few 
persons who have not expressed dissatisfaction. We are told that 
the whole of the New Purchase, excepting fractions* and public 

*A traction is a tract of land where rivers or oblique boundaries have prevented the 
section from being completed. It may consist of any quantity less than a section. 

The law of Congress which authorized these donations, directed that the Canadian 
claimants should locate by sections and quarter sections. Fractions not having been 
mentioned, and as many of these are very valuable, and include nearly all the lands 
adjoining the river, the Register of the Land Office with propriety reserved them till 
the day of the public sale. 

Lot number sixteen in every township, as in other parts of this territory, is appropri- 
ated for the use of schools. A tract has also been reserved round Fort Harrison. We 
knew of no other reservation, though possibly some may be made on account of 
minerals. 



80 Early Travels in Indiana. 

reservations, is spread before them; more than three months have 
been allowed them to locate their claims without interruption; 
and to select the most valuable lots and mill seats, from three 
millions of acres of the best land, ever offered for sale by the 
United States. 

It has been the policy of governments, however, to reward 
such persons as from principles of attachment have come over from 
the enemy; and in the present case, they were native citizens of 
the United States. Many of them left all their possessions behind. 
Perhaps those who scan the measures of government with can- 
dour, would have been satisfied, if the actual sufferers had been 
put in possession of property so generously bestowed. But a 
transfer of claims was inconsiderately permitted; certain expence 
met them in the onset; the office for adjusting their claims, was 
three hundred miles from the place where the principal number 
resided; many difficulties had arisen at the end of this long journey; 
and as cash to the necessitous is tempting, very few will receive 
one fifth of the value of these donations. 

No blame can attach to those who have purchased in a fair 
market; but some idea of this speculation may be formed from 
one statement. The right of a private for three hundred and 
twenty acres, was bought for one hundred and seventeen dollars 
and fifty cents, and was sold for five thousand dollars. The choic- 
est lots near Fort Harrison have been estimated at fifteen dollars 
an acre. 

A small cotton wood tree stands opposite to the window where 
I am writing, dark excrescences on its branches like those which 
appear on this species in the western parts of New- York. It is 
well known that these blemishes are produced by the irritation of 
insects; — first by a puncture when the egg is deposited, and after- 
wards by the growth and motion of the worm. To procure this 
food, the parroquets have been busily employed, at times, through 
the day; but though they have become so familiar; and though 
they excel all the birds of this country in beauty of plumage, — 
their scream is so discordant, and their fierceness of disposition so 
apparent, as to preclude every sensation of attachment. 

These birds build their nests in hollow trees. The strength of 
their necks is remarkable; and we are assured that when both 
wings and feet are tied they can climb trees by striking their 
bills into the bark. 

Birds are not so numerous in the Ohio country as in New- 
York and Pennsylvania. The prairie hen, probably a species of 



David Thomas. 81 

the genus Tetrao, is a native. The tetrao tympanus, or drumming 
pheasant of Pennsylvania, called the partridge in New- York is 
also an inhabitant. The partridge of Pennsylvania called the 
quail in New- York is very numerous. But this confusion of names 
is to be regretted; and in both states the application is improper; 
for the pheasant of Europe belongs to the same genus as our dung- 
hill fowls, and the partridge of England is a distinct species from 
all those of that name in our country. 

The large black bird (Gracula purpurea), frequents the principal 
streams; and small brownish black-birds, probably of the same 
species as those that infest the marshes of the Seneca river, are 
very numerous, and equally predatory. 

The meadow lark, the kildee, and the land plover inhabit the 
prairies. The last has been called the rain bird, from its notes 
being more frequently heard in the calm that precedes changes of 
the atmosphere. But the mildness of the air may inspire its song, 
and the stillness allow it to hover more easily over the fields 
where it loves to wander. From elevations in the air where it is 
scarcely visible, its note is heard to a great distance like a long 
shrill sigh. Who hears it in youth will hardly outlive the recollec- 
tion. 

We had been taught to expect that turkies* were very numer- 
ous, but we have been disappointed, for certainly we have not seen 
half a dozen full grown in all the Western Country. 

The turkey buzzard, or carrion vulture, is gregarious, but we 
have seen no large flocks. It is less shy than any other undo- 
mesticated bird of its size. When searching for food, it moves in 
circles so elevated as almost to elude the sight. There is reason to 
believe that the effluvia of dead bodies, by being specifically, 
lighter than common air, is arranged at a certain height in the 
atmosphere. On reaching this stratum they more readily discover 
whence the stream ascends. 

The red headed woodpecker is seen, but not in such destructive 
numbers as at Cayuga. 

The little yellow bird sometimes moves in flocks, and complaint 
is made of its devouring flax-seed. 

To the foregoing list of the birds of this country, may be added 
the crane, the crow, the blue-jay, and the red winged starling. 

We learn that mountain rice is cultivated by one person, and 
it has succeeded well. The product varies from thirty to sixty 

*At that time, it appears that these fowls were hatching or secreted with their 
young. In the ADDITIONAL NOTICES, a different account will be given. 



82 Early Travels in Indiana. 

bushels to the acre in the rough; but it may diminish to one third 
of these quantities by hulling. This is the best sort; but it requires 
more attention and culture than the water rice, as the hoe must be 
introduced to destroy the weeds, which amongst the latter, the 
process of flooding completely effects. The latter kind would also 
grow in this climate, if the land could be regularly laid under water. 

Our friend has a handsome little nursery of thrifty apple- 
trees which he raised from suckers* procured in his neighbours' 
orchards. He intends to transplant them when he locates a farm. 
In new countries, where it is difficult to obtain young trees, the 
emigrant would do well to adopt this method. 

7 mo. 9.- — M. H. having agreed to attend us in exploring the 
lands up the river, and as maps are necessary, and the creeks 
unusually swelled by the late rains, — which would retard if not 
prevent our progress in that direction,— this morning, he and I 
departed for Vincennes. Our course was south by west, and the 
distance twenty miles. 

This road being back from the river, presented some new 
objects. Having passed the beautiful wood which I mentioned, 
including an extensive sugar camp, the trees as we advanced 
appeared of less and less magnitude, till our path led through oaks 
of small stature into the prairie. 

As the surface of the land is moderately undulated, these 
openings are interrupted at small distances by plains, which differ 
from the prairies in being dry ground, and in supporting flat-topped 
oaks thirty or forty feet high, between which are interspersed 
oak stools. The growth of former years having perished by the 
annual burning, the young shoots of this season have sprung up in 
abundance. These are chiefly the white oak, the swamp white 
oak, and the true black jack. 

To the annual conflagrations may be ascribed in part, the 
scarcity of snakes in this district; but the deficiency of hills and 
quarries to afford them shelter in winter, must remain as the 
principal cause. 

Of these reptiles are enumerated the rattlesnake and the viper. 
Some garter snakes are found; and I learn that the water snake 

♦Although it is a current opinion amongst nursery men, that suckers produce 
suckers in abundance, the emigrant may dismiss all apprehensions on this subject. 
I have a considerable number of trees, budded on such stocks, several of which now 
bear apples; and from none of them have I perceived a sucker. I do not assert that 
these are more exempt than seedling stocks, and nurseries on a large scale could not be 
conveniently supplied in this manner; but no farmer should be discouraged from raising 
his own trees. 



David Thomas. 83 

and black racer will complete the list. The copper head, so 
common through the wooded country to the eastward, is said to 
be unknown. 

At the end of seven miles we came to Marie's Creek. The 
channel was nearly filled by muddy water, and with difficulty 
we forded. It is a lazy stream scarcely two rods wide. 

During the late war, a neighbouring hunter having started a 
deer, near the banks of this creek, cautiously approached the root 
of an old tree, and was earnestly looking through a thick under- 
brush for his game, when he descried two Indians passing in 
file at a small distance. Instinctively he shrunk back — raised his 
rifle, but paused — it was a perilous moment. He knew not their 
numbers; and as he was undiscovered, he determined to be still. 
In a few minutes he heard the report of a gun; and my friend 
pointed down the stream to the spot, where at that instant, they 
killed and scalped a young man who was gathering grapes. A 
short time before, in full health, he had left his father's dwelling. 

The rage and anguish of the parent was excessive. We soon 
passed by his house; and the most melancholy reflections arose on 
my mind. War, at best, is a dismal picture. Famine, slaughter 
and rapine, crowd the pages of its history; but the keen anguish 
that invades the domestic circle is unnoticed. To his country, 
a soldier, or a citizen has perished; to his family, a father, a hus- 
band, a son, or a brother. 

South of the creek, oak, not very thrifty, constitutes the prin- 
cipal timber. This tract extends within seven or eight miles of 
Vincennes; and with the more open lands to the north, forms 
a border to the Shakertown prairie. The soil is but moderately 
fertile. The inhabitants are few, scattered, and in some places 
we passed on for miles without seeing a house. 

Below, the country is more inviting. Beech, sugar maple, 
honey locust and some black walnut, forms a tall forest; and a 
luxuriant growth of herbage overspreads the ground. This wood- 
land extends to the river, — separating the Vincennes prairie from 
that of Shakertown, — retains a great degree of moisture, like the 
beech and maple lands to the eastward, — and appears well adapted 
to the cultivation of grasses. The soil is a strong clayey loam. 

Lands partially improved, in this district, rate from twelve to 
fourteen dollars an acre. 

In Vincennes, N. Ewing and J. Badollet of the Land-Office, 
for whom I had introductory letters, received me with frank- 
ness. The former is a native of Lancaster county, Pennsylvania; 



84 Early Travels in Indiana. 

and the latter of Geneva, in Europe. The friendship of their old 
neighbour, the celebrated A. Gallatin, procured them these 
appointments about nine years ago; and the high rank which they 
deservedly hold in public estimation, proves the wisdom of his 
choice. 

In the evening, having acceded to the kind invitation of N.E. 
to go to his house, which is four miles southeasterly from Vin- 
cennes, we took the opportunity to ride to the top of the second 
mound before noted, and which is near the side of the road. 
The prospect was extensive and delightful. Excepting a ridge of 
moderate elevation up the river, where the woodland extends over 
into the Illinois Territory, there is nothing within the range of the 
eye that merits the name of a hill. 

This pyramid was the largest I had ever approached. We 
estimated the diameter at one hundred and fifty feet, and prob- 
ably it will exceed forty in height on the west side. As it stands on 
the slope of the hill, the acclivity on the east side is much less; 
and though steep, we ascended it on horseback. 

We observe the same singularity of construction as in those to 
the eastward. The surface is sand, which the adjoining hills 
may have furnished; but the interior part is clay, and notwith- 
standing the greatness of the labour, it must have been brought 
from a distance. In it, human bones have been discovered. We 
therefore suppose it was not raised in one age; and the transporta- 
tion of the latter material, probably, formed a part of the funeral 
ceremonies'. 

At the distance of a furlong to the south, a mound of equal 
magnitude appears nearly in a right line with the two which I 
have noticed. All these are separated from the prairie by a swamp 
that lies along the base of the hill. 

This swamp or bog resembles nothing that we have seen in the 
western country. A pole may be thrust perpendicularly down- 
wards to the depth of twenty feet; and as it extends to the borders 
of the White River, twenty miles below, our intelligent friend con- 
jectures that it was an ancient channel of the Wabash. 

In adopting this opinion, however, I refer to a period before 
the formation of the sandy prairies. The vast quantities of sand 
and gravel that overwhelmed the river plains, appears to have 
filled this channel north-easterly from Vincennes, for a consider- 
able distance downwards; and to have turned the river >to the 
southwest; but I consider this deluge to have been long anterior to 
the mounds. 



David Thomas. 85 

Our road now led through a country variegated by low hills, 
chiefly shaded with oak. The soil near the prairies is sandy; 
but as we receded we found it inclining to a clayey loam; and 
beech, &c. appears through the woods. 

The mansion of our friend is of brick, handsomely situated on a 
ridge which commands a pleasant prospect of his farm. His 
daily practice is to ride to Vincennes, and in the evening to return. 
This exercise doubtless contributes to health; and the bustle of 
a town contrasted with this charming but sequestered spot, 
must increase the relish for domestic enjoyment. 

7 mo. 10. — The antiquities of this country interest every intelli- 
gent mind; and curiosity seems more awake because history has 
shed no light on the subject. N. E. informed me, that nine miles 
above its mouth, the Wabash is wearing away a bank which con- 
tains great quantities of the bones of different quadrupeds, and 
hence it is termed the Bone Bank. At the same place, under a 
covering of clay and sand twelve feet deep, vessels of various kinds 
are found stratified with ashes. Some of these are large and 
shaped like a Dutch stew-pot; others are spherical bottles with 
long necks. Like the fragments found in other parts of the western 
country, these contain pounded muscle shells. The cement, how- 
ever, has become very feeble; the parts crumble at the touch, and 
in every flood the river effects some removal. 

Though the ordinance of Congress, under which all the gov- 
ernments north west of the Ohio were organized, expressly declares 
that no persons, except in punishment for crimes, shall be held in 
bondage; and though that ordinance has remained unrepealed; 
yet slaves were considered to be so convenient, that the terri- 
torial legislature authorized their introduction. For this pur- 
pose, indentures were employed. The negro was directed to sign 
an article, binding himself to serve his master for some specified 
term of years; refusal could avail nothing, and compliance was 
termed voluntary servitude. I learn, however, from various sources, 
that it is now generally understood that these articles must 
be declared nugatory whenever a legal investigation shall be made. 

In this affair originated a powerful opposition; and for several 
years past, the territory has been divided into two active parties. 
Those who were opposed to this innovation, however, soon became 
the majority; and the members of the late Convention, acting 
agreeably to the directions of Congress, put the question at rest 
forever, by excluding the principle of slavery from the state 
constitution. 



86 Early Travels in Indiana. 

After breakfast we returned to Vincennes. The hills that 
border the prairie on the east, are chiefly composed of sand; and 
the inequalities of the surface, which are very considerable, show 
the violent agitation of the deluge that whirled it hither. 

Having procured the necessary maps by the very liberal 
accommodation of the Register, we continued our journey. 

We had been invited by B. Parke, a distinguished citizen, 
to visit him on our return. This we now performed with much 
satisfaction. He resided in a spacious brick building, erected by 
the late Governor Harrison, situate at the north end of the town, 
and which adds much to the appearance of the place. The ground 
in front is level; but the slope towards the river is easy, and admits 
of delightful gardens. At this time the tomatoes were full grown 
and abundant; and the black morella, which loaded the branches 
furnished an agreeable repast; but the Chickasaw plumbs, with 
one solitary exception, had all ripened and disappeared. This 
fruit is delicious, and the tree a great bearer, but suckers appear 
to spring up around it as far as the roots extend. 

Here I discovered that the worm which destroys the inner bark 
round the root of the peach tree, is an active inhabitant; and that 
the Curculio destroys much of the fruit. 

In conformity to an engagement made last evening, we 
travelled seven miles further to J. M. M'Donald's, a friendly, 
hospitable man, where we abode for the night. He has been much 
in the service of the United States as a surveyor; and was employed 
to run the West Bounds of this territory; north from Vincennes, 
when it was first discovered that the Wabash River, for more than 
forty miles, meanders on or west of that meridian. 

In his field he pointed out to me a grass, of which I had heard 
much, known through all the western country by the name of 
nimble Will. It is much esteemed for pasture, especially in Ken- 
tucky. I cannot give very strong testimony, however, in its 
favour, as I have always seen it thin on the ground. In the west- 
ern parts of New-York, where it also grows indigenously, it scarcely 
withstands the encroachment of other grasses. 

We have been led to believe from seeing so many persons who 
had marched to Tippecanoe, that the whole military strength of 
this district was engaged in that expedition. Amongst these our 
hospitable friend may be numbered. 

7 mo. 11. — We departed about sunrise, and soon passed into 
the same road that we traversed two days ago. 

Marie's Creek, which has been dignified with the appellation of 



David Thomas. 87 

a river on some maps, was now reduced to a light mill-stream; 
and I think it would be easy to jump across it with a pole. Not 
far below the surface, sand rock in horizontal strata appeared in 
the south bank. 

About 9 o'clock we arrived, and found my old companions in 
anxious waiting. In our absence they had explored the country 
in the neighbourhood of Shakertown, and had returned yester- 
day, expecting to meet us. 

At 2 o'clock in the afternoon, accompanied by our kind friend 
M. H. we commenced our journey for Fort Harrison. Our road 
led northwesterly through prairies principally composed of clay, 
though very fertile, and interspersed with fine farms. It is remark- 
able that though some parts of these tracts are wet, and now, even 
covered with water; yet the bog or quagmire is unknown, and there 
is no danger of being swamped. 

Near Busseron Creek we passed through a fine tract of wood- 
land, as level and as fertile as the prairie. 

At the end of seven miles, we crossed that creek at a mill 
below which, the water had laid bare a slaty rock in hoiizontal 
strata. 

We then passed through barrens (so called), which produced 
corn of uncommon luxuriance. The prospect soon became more 
interesting. To the left spread an undulated plain of dark fertile 
sand, thinly timbered by oaks without underbrush; and on our 
right the scene was variegated with lawns and groves. The low 
ground is wet prairie, or that kind which is occasioned by the col- 
lection and subsequent evaporation of water. Every little knoll 
of only two feet in height supports a grove. These are termed 
islands by the inhabitants, and not improperly, as floods must 
frequently surround them. 

At the distance of three miles we came out into the Gill Prairie, 
where the extent and beauty of the scene, and the luxuriance 
of the corn excited our admiration, but the driftwood was deposited 
in lines, above the level of no inconsiderable part of this fine 
tract. Indeed we have seen none except the Vincennes prairie 
that is free from bayous. These in times of flood, convert the parts 
adjoining the river literally into islands; and nearly all communi- 
cation with the back settlements must be intercepted. In places 
the channel is excavated, forming when the current subsides, 
shallow ponds or marshes. These, however, are not miry, and 
the cattle pass over without inconvenience. This bayou, ten miles 
in length, receives its waters from Turtle Creek. 



88 Early Travels in Indiana. 

We were now within the limits of the New Purchase, and con- 
sequently none of the few inhabitants who have fixed here can 
have titles to the land except through the intervention of Canadian 
claimants. A cabin and a few acres of corn, constitute the prin- 
cipal improvements. 

At Turtle Creek, the woodland commences. Immediately we 
observed the irregularities of the surface to be greatly increased; 
and a clayey loam, which the river alluvions have never reached, 
producing beech and sugar maple, indicated a total change of 
soil. 

Of the trees in this country we make the general remark, that 
the trunk, and more especially the branches, are larger than those 
of the same kinds to the eastward, and stand from each other at 
greater distances. 

From a bluff two miles above Turtle Creek, we had a most 
charming prospect of La Motte Prairie, west of the river in the 
Illinois Territory; and the beams of the sun, nearly setting, 
imparted a yellow tinge to the distant woods that encircle this 
plain. The bluff is upwards of one hundred feet high, and the river 
flows at its base. The ground declines to the east; the regularity 
of the descent is remarkably beautiful; and the herbage, like that 
throughout all this tract of woodland, is very luxuriant. 

One man and his "family have fixed their residence on this 
interesting spot, and have cleared a small farm. Possession has 
been deemed of so much consequence in many parts of the United 
States, and such indulgence has been granted to those persons who 
have formed the frontier in time of war, that even now these set- 
tlers anticipate important advantages. Among neighbours, who 
fear to do each other wrong, such hopes might be realized; but 
amongst speculators, who will be found here on the day of sale, 
from all parts of the Union, we can hardly believe that their little 
claims will obtain much respect. 

Our route still led through woodlands,. We had five miles 
further to travel, and the approach of evening induced us to mend 
our pace; but it became dark before we arrived at Tarman's, 
where we lodged. 20 miles this afternoon. 

7 mo. 12. — This person, with his family, resided here before 
the late war. A small prairie of 200 or 300 acres, known by his 
name, and bordered by thick woods, except towards the river, 
chiefly contains the improvements. Last spring they removed 
from the prairie to a new cabin in the woodlands, near the road. 
The upper story of this building projects for the purpose of defence; 



David Thomas. 89 

and may serve as a memorial, of the apprehensions which over- 
spread the white settlers, before the late treaty with the Indians 
at Fort Harrison. 

A short time before the approach of those persons who came 
with Hopkins, this family, fearful of the Indians, abandoned their 
dwelling and retired down the river. In the hurry of removal 
many articles were necessarily left behind. When the band arrived 
they wasted everything that could be found; and the sons told 
me that their hogs and neat cattle were wantonly shot down, 
and left untouched where they fell. 

Near the edge of this prairie, I observed some small mounds. 
These are the first I have noticed above the Vincennes Prairie. 

I have mentioned the wood house of the eastern states, and the 
spring house of the middle states, but omitted to notice in its 
proper place the smoke house of Virginia. At least by some, the 
erroneous opinion has been adopted, that pork cannot be pre- 
served in pickle during the summer heat of this climate. Whether 
the prevalence of this notion has caused the southern farmer to 
convert his pork into bacon; or whether custom has rendered the 
flavour most agreeable I leave undetermined; but certain it is 
that the smoke house is considered an appendage of great value. 
Our host faithfully practises this branch of rural economy; and 
in an open log building, we saw nearly one thousand weight of 
ham, flitch, and shoulder, which was undergoing this process. 
We presumed that the animals had been recently killed. 

Several springs appear in the north side of the bank on which 
this dwelling is situate. The subsoil is principally sand or sand 
stone; and throughout this western country, as in other places, 
We remark that wherever water comes filtered through this sub- 
stance, the quality is excellent. 

After breakfast we continued our journey. Several families 
have fixed their abode one or two miles further north; and so much 
confidence has been felt in the right of possession that a saw mill 
has been erected in the present season on a small creek. We 
should be gratified hereafter to learn, that such industry and 
enterprize have been respected. 

In this neighbourhood we passed a coal mine, which has been 
recently opened, though the work has been but partially per- 
formed. The stratum is laid bare to the depth of -four or five 
feet. As the excavation is made in the channel of a small brook, 
the torrent, by removing the loose earth, doubtless led to this 
discovery. All the strata of this fossil that we have seen in the 



90 Early Travels in Indiana. 

western country has appeared near the surface; and it would not 
surprise me, if it should be brought forth in a thousand places 
where the shovel and the pickaxe have never yet been employed. 

Last evening between Turtle Creek and the Bluff, we travelled 
some distance on the first flats of the River; and in our progress 
through twelve miles of woods this morning, the same thing 
occurred. These flats, like the uplands adjoining on the east, 
are well sheltered with thrifty timber. Overshadowed by woods 
for such a length of way, we almost forgot our proximity to natural 
meadows; and so different are these two kinds of land, that a 
stranger would as soon expect to find a prairie in the forests of 
New- York. 

In these woods our intelligent friend pointed out to us the 
ground, on which the escort and drivers of some provision waggons, 
intended for the relief of Fort Harrison, were attacked during the 
late war. The Indians lay in ambush on both sides of a bank over 
which the road led, and when the waggons gained that position, 
commenced their fire. Only two of the poor fellows escaped. The 
foremost driver cut loose one of his horses, and after a precip- 
itate flight of more than twenty miles, reached Fort Harrison. 
The other was a private who concealed himself under the side of a 
log. From this insecure retreat, continually expecting death, 
and sometimes almost trodden over, he beheld with horror the 
butchery of his comrades. After all was still, the Indians dis- 
charged their guns into the casks of liquor, and cut the waggons 
to pieces. 

Prairies (I am told) are seldom found opposite on both sides 
of the river. The Wabash has closely traced the west side of this 
forest; and directly over in the Illinois Territory, the valley 
is occupied by Union and Walnut Creek Prairies. From these 
facts it appears, that the same irregularity, prevails in regard to 
hills and table land, that I have noticed in the eastern part of the 
Ohio country. 

. The pecan is only found on the first flats, and appears to be 
confined within the limits of common floods. It is a stately tree. 
We saw some three feet in diameter, and nearly one hundred feet in 
height. The leaf consists of fifteen leaflets : fourteen in pairs, and 
one terminal. 

I have often been surprised at the confused ideas that bota- 
nists have exhibited, when treating of this vegetable, and of the 
species with which it is allied. Though the outer shells of the 
walnuts have no determinate opening like the hickories; and though 



David Thomas. 91 

the inner shells are perforated while that of the latter is smooth — 
yet one genus has been made to include them; and so much has that 
essential character, and even specific differences been over- 
looked, that the butternut, the shell bark, and the pecan, have been 
arranged as only varieties of the same species. We believe no 
two genera of the same natural assemblage* are more distinct. 

The timber of the first flats comprises, in addition to the pecan, 
the bitternut, the river nut, and the shell bark hickory. The but- 
ternut, and, in some places, the black walnut. At the river, the 
water maple; where it is swampy, the red maple; and in the drier 
parts, the ash-leaved, and the sugar maple. To these should be 
added, the button wood or sycamore, the ash, the elm, and the 
cotton wood. The last tree sometimes attains a diameter of four 
feet, and preserves its thickness of trunk to a remarkable height. 

The soil of these flats is remarkably fertile; but mud, left on 
the herbage by the freshets, causes much of it to putrify ; and the 
exhalations are very offensive. 

A channel, which receives the surplus water of many thousand 
square miles, must be very unequally supplied; and during heavy 
rains it is evident, that 

. . . innumerable streams 
Tumultuous roar; and far above its banks 
The river lift . . . 

Accordingly, near the northern border of this great tract of wood- 
land, the flood marks on the trees were higher than we could reach 
on horseback. 

These marks consist of annular spaces on the bark from which 
the moss has been removed. We conjecture this happens during 
floods in the latter part of winter. The ice, forming in the night, 
encloses the moss; and as the thaw commences at the tree, when 
the water subsides, the moss will be torn off by the ice in its fall. 

On entering the Prairie we found it a low strip of land ; and like 
the south end of the Shakertown Prairie, entirely within the reach 
of common floods. Whenever the river rises over its banks the 
road must therefore be impassable. This tract, five miles long, 
and averaging about one mile in width, is bounded on the north by 
the narrows, where the woodlands from the river and from the hills, 

*Since writing the above I have observed with much satisfaction, in a late period- 
ical work that C. S. RAPINESQUE, an accurate and distinguished naturalist, has 
placed the hickories in a new genus, Hiccorius. Of the old genus Juglans eleven 
species were enumerated, and a majority of these were hickories. 



92 Early Travels in Indiana. 

approach within ten rods. A heavy current sweeps through in 
times of flood. 

This Prairie is considered to be of small value from its being 
so subject to inundation; and no inhabitants are found near its 
borders. Its name is derived from Prairie Creek, a light stream 
which flows through it from the eastward. A small mound appears 
on its north bank. 

Our friend in leading us towards the woods near the north 
east corner, directed our attention to the dry ground on which 
we were riding. In a few minutes we came to a fine brook which 
"has its sources in the hills; but which on reaching the plain is 
immediately lost in the sand over which we had passed. We 
found several cases of this kind, but observed one serious incon- 
venience: — as these currents have never formed a channel to the 
river, the water in heavy rains, spreads over the prairie, and in 
some places coats the herbage with mud. 

These hills are about one hundred feet higher than the prairies. 

Leaving that stream we travelled to the north along the hill 
side, through the woods, and soon came out into Honey Creek 
Prairie. We were delighted with the prospect. As we traversed 
this extensive tract, we contrasted the granite hills in the east 
with this soil which requires no manure; and nothing but moder- 
ate culture to produce an overwhelming plenty*; we thought of 
the thousands who had toiled and pined on barrens, while this 
land for ages had been a range for wild beasts; and indulged, in 
fancy, a view of farm houses on the numerous and elegant sites 
that have emerged from this plain. 

We explored this Prairie about, noon, in clear sunshine. The 
weather was warm, but not sultry. We found the most incon- 
venience from the green-headed horse fly, which were numerous 
and active. Excepting this instance, we have suffered very little 
from such insects; and indeed much less than we expected. It is 
an erroneous notion that warm climates produce them in greatest 
abundance; — the sultry summers of northern regions have a full 
share; and perhaps in no country are they more distressing than in 
Lapland. 

It having become necessary to procure some refreshment, our 
experienced guide led us into the woodland on the east; and after 

*We are assured that when corn (maize) is very excellent, the whole crop is rarely 
harvested. After securing what is deemed sufficient, the live stock is turned into the 
field in the winter to consume the remainder. We do not believe, however, that this 
practice will be of long continuance. 



David Thomas. 93 

ascending the hill, directed our course to a new cabin, which was 
occupied by two families. On entering we were furnished with 
seats, but the beds were all spread on the floor. In one corner a 
woman lay in a burning fever. She complained of much pain in 
her side, and many involuntary moans escaped while her husband 
supported her head. They were strangers,- — young, — probably 
indigent; and no physician could be found nearer than Fort 
Harrison. 

It was a case of real distress, and the circumstances were 
discouraging. However, we left medicine with directions. 

This family were lately from the state of Ohio. They had 
arrived in a boat, fixed their residence on the prairie, and drank 
the warm water from a brook. Apprehensive of disease, they had 
only left the borders of the river within a few days past, and were 
received into this cabin as tenants. 

[We were much gratified to learn in three or four days that 
she was likely to recover. Unquestionably many of these emi- 
grants suffer from want of suitable food, and of medicine, and 
from the want of comfortable lodgings, and of proper attendance.] 

The summit of this hill appears to be an extensive tract 
of table land. The soil is fertile, and produces thrifty timber, 
but contains little sand except in knolls. This remark will apply 
to the country in general; and as it perfectly accords with what I 
have observed in the western parts of New-York; and as some rocks 
of granite are also scattered here, doubtless this land has been 
overwhelmed by the same deluge. I allude not to inundations 
produced by extraordinary rains, but to a preternatural flood 
which swept over the highest hills, and which, to my view, was 
occasioned by exterior attraction. 

In descending from the hill, the prospect through the trees 
had the brightness of a great lake in calm weather. The low angle 
at which the sky appears across the prairie, was the cause of this 
optical deception. 

Through this prairie, on the sloping sides of the ridgy knolls, we 
frequently observed irregular hollows, several rods in diameter, 
and a few feet in depth, which would hold water, had the soil 
been clayey and compact. The origin ought not to be ascribed to a 
depression of the surface, but to the unequal deposition of sand 
and gravel in the time of that extraordinary flood. The sides are 
neither so steep, nor the depth so great but the plough may readily 
pass through, and we feel confident that wheat would flourish in 
the bottom. The Ceanothus americanus, or tea plant, which only 



94 Early Travels in Indiana. 

grows on dry banks to the eastward, and which also appears on the 
driest parts of this land, is found in that situation; so loose and so 
little retentive of water, is the soil. Indeed we are assured that 
within an hour or two after heavy rains, the ploughman may 
resume his labour without inconvenience. 

This species of Ceanothus is completely naturalized to the 
prairies. Burnt down to the ground every season it has relin- 
quished the habit of a shrub; and conforming to the vicisitudes 
of its situation, the same stalks that grew this spring to the height 
of six or eight inches, are now loaded with flowers. 

We now directed our course to the westward; and at the dis- 
tance of two or three miles, passed into the woods that shelter 
Honey creek. It is worthy of remark that wherever the streams 
overflow and deposit a clayey sediment, we find thrifty timber; 
and indeed the dry land adjoining, — which is the same as the 
prairie soil — commonly retains more or less oak. This fact I 
consider as an additional proof that these wastes are occasioned by 
fire. As it can only approach from one side, the chance for the 
flame to be driven through the trees, is considerably diminished. 

As a continuation of the first remark, it may be noticed, that 
bayous rarely (if ever) deposit any sediment; and in the lower 
parts of the prairies that are overflowed by the river, we observed 
the naked sand. 

Honey creek is a considerable mill stream. The prairie to 
which it gives a name is computed to be eight miles long, and 
from one to five wide; but I suspect the latter estimate is large. 
It is a beautiful tract of land. By the creek it is separated on the 
north from the Terre Haute* (i.e. High land) Prairie; and on the 
west or north west, from the Little Prairie. 

On crossing this creek we passed ten or fifteen rods (as we had 
done on the opposite shore) through a thrifty wood of beech, sugar 
mcple, white and blue oak, black walnut, honey locust, and nettle 
tree; and then came out into the Little Prairie. This contains 
about eight hundred acres. On it, our friend had made some 
improvements; and this was our chief motive in departing from 
the direct road to Fort Harrison. It is separated from the Terre 
Haute Prairie by woodland which extends from the river to 
Honey creek, joining it some distance above where we forded. 
The timber on the drier parts of this strip is chiefly black oak. 
The ravages of fire amongst it has been very considerable 1 ; and in 
this part, the prairie, was visibly gaining on the woods. 

♦Vulgarly pronounced Tar Holt. 



David Thomas. 95 

We now passed along through the western part of the Terre 
Haute Prairie; and in the calm evening of one of the finest days in 
summer, the shadows of the oaks lengthening over the plain. 
Novelty still lent its charms; and even after we arrived at our 
lodgings, four miles south of the fort, we were delighted with the 
prospect of lawns and of distant woods. 

This establishment, is not a tavern, but travellers are occas- 
sionally entertained. The house was erected in the present 
season. A few acres of corn are enclosed; but the proprietor of 
those improvements has no claim to the soil but the right of pos- 
session. This site which is about fifty feet above the prairie to 
the eastward, commands one of the most extensive prospects 
that we have seen in the country. 

Notwithstanding its elevation, and its proximity to the woods 
that shelter it on the west, we observed the same black sand that 
appeared in other parts of these singular tracts; and where a 
small excavation has been made for a cellar, I perceived no change 
at a less depth than two feet. In some of the lower parts of the 
prairies, I learn that it is even found at the depth of five feet. 

7 mo. 13. — Early this morning we resumed our journey. A 
few families live near our landlord, but two miles to the north 
there is a very considerable encampment. Many of these emi- 
grants are from the state of New-York. It is said that fevers are 
prevalent amongst them; and last night a man from the neigh- 
bourhood of Genesee river, died. We stopt a few minutes to visit 
N. Kirk, lately from the state of Ohio, with whom our companion 
D. S. was acquainted. His wife has an intermittent fever. 

These notices may seem minute, but the apology will be obvious 
and ample. The report of a traveller which may influence the 
emigrant, ought to embrace "the truth and the whole truth;" 
and the profit and the peril, the bane and the antidote should be 
set in order before him. 

I observed the Columbo growing near the borders of these 
woods, with stalks about six feet in height. 

Beyond this encampment to the north, we passed a field con- 
taining two hundred acres of corn, which made a very fine appear- 
ance, and is the principal crop. The enclosing of this tract with 
oak rails, was the labour of a company; and each man occupies 
land in proportion to the length of fence he erected. The whole 
has been lately covered by a Canadian claim; and though in strict- 
ness these occupants might be considered as intruders, their 



96 Early Travels in Indiana. 

case has excited sympathy and called forth some expressions of 
dissatisfaction with the claimant. 

The cabins along the road, from these improvements to the 
Fort, are numerous; the immediate vicinity of this station has 
assumed the aspect of a considerable village, and once more we 
were surrounded by "the busy hum of men." 

Fort Harrison stands within a few rods of the river, on a bank 
which, though not steep, is beyond the reach of floods. It is 
garrisoned by a detachment from the army of the United States. 
It was built in the autumn of 1811, by the late governor Harrison 
and the troops under his command, who halted for that purpose 
on their march to Tippecanoe. 

The pernicious effects of spirituous liquors were sadly exemp- 
lified a few weeks ago near this place.. After the treaty, whiskey 
was liberally dealt out to the Indians; and in the frenzy of intoxi- 
cation, one killed his fellow. To terminate this feud, and to prevent 
retaliation, it became necessary by their custom, that the murderer 
should be dispatched by his own brother, and the horrid task was 
accordingly performed. 

About 10 o'clock we resumed our traverse of the country. 
Directing our course to the northeast through the prairies, we 
crossed over high broad ridges which might be laid into beauti- 
ful farms. The fertility of these lands has been noticed. Such 
elevations we would expect to be exempt from mud in all seasons, 
nor do we believe that any unwholesome exhalation would 
approach. 

At the distance of one mile and a half, we came to Otter 
Creek which is a fine mill stream. One mile above the ford is an 
excellent mill seat, which has just been located by R. Markle, 
and which he intended soon to occupy. 

This prairie is thirteen miles long. The surface declines to 
the eastward, and becomes so low near the creek, that the water 
flows thro' in times of flood, forming a bayou which communi- 
cates with Honey creek. From the ford, the course of Otter creek 
is nearly north-west, and just before its junction with the river, 
the Terre Haute Prairie terminates. 

Agreeably to previous observation, Otter creek is sheltered by 
woodland, and the trees appear on each side as far as the clayey 
sediment extends. 

Spring Creek Prairie lies to the north of this stream. It is 
about four miles from north to south, and nearly two from east 
to west. We have seen no tract of this extent equally delightful. 



David Thomas. 97 

One glance takes in the whole opening; and the eye, undazzled by 
distant prospects that fade into ether, rests with pleasure on 
woods distinctly visible. 

The woods on the northern boundary, chiefly consist of beech, 
sugar maple and oak, spread over uplands, which terminate the 
prairies on the £ast side of the river. Along the south border 
of this tract, Spring Creek, a light mill stream, meanders. Its 
sources are among the hills, and being fed by durable fountains, 
it suffers less diminution in summer, than many of the larger 
streams to the south. 

We believe that this prairie will be salubrious. From the 
exhalations of the river, it is sheltered by high lands on the 
west, which are crowned with oak. No streams sink into its sands. 
These, with the soakings of the country to the eastward, are inter- 
cepted by Lost Run, which flows southerly towards Otter Creek; 
and it appears that no bayou in times of flood, divides it. 

The latter circumstance merits consideration. The surface of 
this prairie, like that of Terre Haute, slopes from the sides towards 
the middle, and exhibits a depression throughout its whole length. 
This is in the same line with the bayou from Otter Creek; and if 
Spring Creek, instead of its short course, formed a channel for 
the surplus water of a large district, it would doubtless pass 
through. Indeed I am not convinced that this does not happen, 
in extraordinary floods. 

On the north side of this stream, we traversed the open woods 
along the base of the hill. This, we were told, was the route of 
the army to Tippecanoe; and we saw timothy of fine growth, prob- 
ably from seed which was scattered at that time. 

On the banks of a small brook of pure water, which flows from 
the hill, we took our noontide repast. We were then six or eight 
miles beyond the limits of the civilized world; and no white set- 
tlers of any description, are known above Fort Harrison. 

Gun flints, similar to those which we noticed near Indian 
Kentucky, are found in the channels of the brook. I have seen 
none which give more fire with steel. 

In moist places, the common wild nettle (Urtica divaricata) 
occupies much of the soil. Its sting, which was doubtless designed 
for a defence, is severe to horses; and one of our hacknies was so 
irritable as to lie down under the rider. 

On the west side of Spring Creek, where it turns north, we 
found an opening of many acres. Beyond it, towards the river, 
the land is a sandy plain, above the reach of floods, and thinly 

T— 7 



98 Early Travels in Indiana. 

covered with oak of moderate size. We consider this an eligible 
site for a village. The Wabash flows at its base; the descent to 
the water is short and easy; and the communication with the 
country, will probably be at all times uninterrupted.* 

Near this plain, the strawberry plant grows in abundance; 
but the season for gathering the fruit, in this climate, had long 
since past. 

Some idea of the fertility of the woodlands that surround these 
prairies, may be obtained from the growth of the Ambrosia 
trifida, which we frequently observed. In no other region have I 
seen it, except on the first flats of rivers. 

This day's journey was productive of much satisfaction. We 
had proposed to encamp; but unprovided with punkj and unsuc- 
cessful in all our attempts to kindle fire, we were compelled to 
return to our former lodgings, more than ten miles from the dis- 
trict in which we wished to spend to-morrow. No traveller in 
new countries should be destitute of a tinder-box. 

7 mo. 14. — From our lodgings, the prospect of this great 
prairie is delightful. The night was cool, and the morning drip- 
ping with dew. The sun at rising, was obscured by a dense cloud 
of fog which settled near the border of the prairie ; and on enquiry, 
we learned that a brookf flowed from the hills at that place, 
and was lost in the sands. 

We now proceeded eastward across the Prairie. Knolls or 
ridges of several acres, lying in a north and south direction, appear 
through these wastes; and evince a commotion to which we 
cannot conceive any river flood to be subject. In the bayou 
towards the middle of this tract, our horses waded through much 
standing water. 

Near the eastern border of the Prairie we saw a field of corn, 
the seed of which had been dropt in every third or fourth furrow, 
and the sod consequently turned down upon it. We consider it a 
strong proof of the lightness and warmth of the soil. From seed 
corn treated in such manner in our cool and moist climate, no 
return could be expected. One precaution, however, is necessary. 
The inverted soil must "be rolled or trodden closely down; for if 

*The following remark appeared in a Vincennes newspaper, in 1817. "It should 
not be jorgotten by those who know, nor should it remain untold to those who do not 
know, that there are few places on the Wabash, where high land approaches it so as to 
afford at all seasons of the year, easy access to the river." 

tPunk is a fungus, which extends its sponge like fibres through the decaying wood. 
The maples and hickories are the only trees in which we have seen it perfect. 

JLost Creek, for which see the map. 



David Thomas. 99 

the plumule unfolds within the cavity, it will be unable to pierce 
the soil, and must perish. 

Crops, in the first season that the prairies are ploughed, exhibit 
but little of that luxuriance of vegetation, which in succeeding 
years is so remarkable. This is imputed to the hardness of the 
wild grass roots, which consist chiefly of the woody fibre, absorb 
even when buried a part of the nutriment contained in the soil, and 
yield very slowly to decay. 

Several families have erected huts in the edge of the wood- 
lands. The inducement has been the convenience of timber and 
fire wood, a supply of water, and land adjoining ready cleared. 
But we consider the situation unhealthy. The brooks that descend 
from the hills, having no channel or outlet to the river, spread, 
when swelled by heavy rains, and deposit all the impurities that 
were whirled along by the torrent. The herbage had been coated 
with mud, and the smell at this time was very offensive. 

Changing our course to the north, we crossed Otter Creek at 
the old ford, and bearing to the east side of Spring Creek Prairie, 
we passed through groves and thickets that form its border in that 
direction. This tract is very little elevated above the prairie, 
and from its soil and productions, belongs to the class of barrens. 
We saw some openings of several acres, moist, and which might 
form productive meadows. These spaces were beautifully 
chequered with the meadow sweet, a species of Spirea which 
is herbaceous. 

At the distance of two or three miles from Spring Creek Prai- 
rie, we came to a rectangular opening of thirty or forty acres 
which greatly resembled an old field. It is enclosed by black 
oaks of good size. The surface is handsomely level, and the soil 
has marks of fertility; but near the north west corner, where a 
tree had torn up the subsoil, I found a whitish sand, with scarcely 
any traces of that black fertilizing matter, which so strongly 
marks the river prairies. 

We had intended to visit Raccoon Creek, the mouth of which 
forms one point in the north bounds of the New Purchase, being 
desirous to see the extensive forests of black walnut, which are 
on the upper parts of that stream* but there was a prospect of 
rain, and the day was too far advanced. It was therefore deter- 
mined to explore the lands adjacent to Spring Creek. For this 
purpose, directing our course westwardly through moist prairies, 
which are separated by thin groves of stunted oak, we came to 
Lost Run. At this time I judged its current to be as heavy as 



100 Early Travels in Indiana. 

Spring Creek; but its channel indicated a stream of inferior 
magnitude; and our intelligent friend informed us, that in severe 
drowths it ceases to flow. Its banks were thickly covered with pea- 
vine, as it is here called; but I think it nearer allied to the bean. 
The aspect of this plant is pleasing, the blossom blue, and the 
vegetation luxuriant. 

Near the north east corner of Spring Creek Prairie, we found 
a grove of sugar maple on land that declines towards the Creek. 
Wherever this tree flourishes, the soil is favorable to the produc- 
tion of timothy; and, in all places that we have seen, contains no 
inconsiderable portion of clay. Here a farm might be located 
that would embrace sandy prairie, fine meadows, a durable stream, 
good timber, and an extensive sugar camp. 

In the woods on the south bank of Spring Creek, we found the 
remains of wigwams, erected by the Indians, on their hunting 
expeditions. Some were evidently designed as winter habitations. 
Of these, dry leaves interlaced with small poles, formed the walls; 
and the work displayed much skill and neatness. 

We have seen no serpent in travelling four days, except a small 
garter snake, which was coiled on a leaf two feet from the ground. 

In traversing such delightful regions, the mind acquires a 
degree of cheerfulness that rarely attends it in the deep gloom 
of the forest. But on reverting to the long toils and privations 
that beset the inhabitant of the wilderness, — and on contrasting 
the lightness of labour to possess these ancient abodes — a feeling 
more intense must pervade the patriot. The dark days of his 
country are past. In fancy, must he view the current of popula- 
tion breaking from the mountains, full, broad, resistless; and 
the vast and long deserted plains of the Mississippi, fill with 
life, with intellect, and with elegance. • 

END OF THE DIARY. 

ADDITIONAL NOTICES OF THE WESTERN COUNTRY. 

"THE State of Indiana is bounded on the north by a parallel 
of latitude, ten miles north, of the southern extremity of Lake 
Michigan; on the south by the Ohio river; on the east by a merid- 
ian passing through the mouth of the Great Miami; and on the 
west by the Vincennes meridian, until, in coming south, it inter- 
sects the Wabash, and then by that river to its confluence with 
the Ohio." 



David Thomas. 101 

Of the first settlement made at Vincennes by the French, it 
is difficult to find two accounts that agree. The old French records 
were destroyed by fire; and all that has descended to us on this 
subject, appears to be traditional. Two of my correspondents 
have furnished the subjoined paragraphs. Both accounts are too 
interesting to be omitted; and the difference of the dates shows 
the uncertainty of the reports in circulation at Vincennes, though 
I think the chronology of the first should be preferred. 

"About the year 1690 the French traders first visited Vin- 
cennes, at that time a town of the Piankeshaw Indians, called 
Cippecaughke. Of these the former obtained wives, and raised 
families. 

"In the year 1734 several French families emigrated from 
Canada and settled at this place. The first governor, or com- 
mandant, was M. St. Vincent, after whom the town is now called. 
In the year 1763 the country was ceded to the British who held it 
till the year 1778, when the fort was taken by the American 
Gen. George Clark. The United States confirmed the French in 
their possessions; and a donation of a tract of country round the 
Post, was made to the inhabitants." 



"About the year 1702, a party of French from Canada, 
descended the Wabash river, and established posts in several places 
on its banks. The party was commanded by Capt. St. Vin- 
cennes who made this his principal place of deposit, which went 
for a long time by no other name than the Post. 

"The French of this place, took an active part on our side in 
the war that separated us from Great Britian; but not until they 
saw an adequate force to assist them in maintaining their stand- 
ing. In Ramsay's Life of Washington, it is stated, that a Spanish 
merchant of this place, gave information to the Americans, of 
the situation and strength of the British forces that were sta- 
tioned here, and that Col. Clark easily obtained possession by his 
directions. This Spanish merchant, as he is there called, is the 
venerable Col. Vigo, who resides about three miles south east of 
Vincennes. He is an ornament to the country and a warm friend 
to our government." 

"In the Indian wars that ended in 1794, the people of this 
place, though not active, defended themselves against the Indians. 
The latter, however, were not very hostile towards the French, but 



102 Early Travels in Indiana. 

killed the Anglo-Americans without mercy wherever they could 
be found. 

"In our last war, the French were as much engaged against the 
Indians as any other inhabitants of the frontier." 

Vincennes, from its antiquity, and from having long been the 
capital of the Western Country, merits a more particular descrip- 
tion than could be included in the Diary. The manuscripts that 
now lie before me on this subject are voluminous; part of which 
have been supplied by my correspondents, and part have been pro- 
cured from other sources. 

In the following account of the houses in this town, I place 
the fullest confidence, as the writer was so obliging as to examine 
every part of it, on receiving my request for information. 

"There are eight brick houses, ninety-three frame houses, and 
one hundred and fifty French houses — in all, two hundred and 
fifty-one. These are exclusive of barns, stables, and old uninhab- 
ited houses, which I think are equal to the number of French 
houses, and make the whole number of buildings about four hun- 
dred. On the commons east of the town, there are many cellars 
and old chimney places, which lead me to suppose that Vin- 
cennes has decreased in the number of buildings." 

Some idea of the commerce, manufactures, and importance of 
this place, may be obtained from the following List, which is 
dated 1st of 1 mo. 1818. 

18 Store of Merchandise, (a) 1 Apothecary 

6 Taverns, (6) 2 Printing Offices, (c) 

4 Groceries 7 Lawyers 

4 Black-Smiths' Shops 7 Physicians 

2 Gun Smiths' shops 1 Limner 

3 Shoemakers' shops Chapel 

3 Saddlers' shops Academy, (e) 

4 Tailors' shops Post Office 

2 Cabinet Makers Bank, (/) 

3 Hat Factories U. S. Land Office 
1 Silver Smith Court House (g) 
1 Tin Factory Jail, (h) 

1 Chair Maker 2 Market Houses, and a Livery 

1 Tobacconist Stable. 

1 Tannery 

(a) This note will comprise all my remarks on the com- 
merce of the Wabash. 

We learned at Vincennes that the merchants only accepted 
cash in pay for goods. At that time, the surplus productions of 



David Thomas. 103 

the soil were too small to have formed any regular channel to dis- 
tant markets. I am not able to state that it is even now accomp- 
lished, but allkinds of produce are in brisk demand for cash. The 
chief part of these purchases are doubtless to supply the immediate 
wants of the new settlers; but cash has been offered for large 
quantities of grain at several places near the river. 

In the 2d month, 1818, the following prices were current: 

$ Cents. 

Wheat, per bushel, was 1 

Corn, per bushel, was 50 

Potatoes, per bushel, was 37 § to 50 

Pork, per ewt 4 50 

Beef, per ewt 3 to 4 

The reader will recollect, that in 1816, Corn was only 25 
cents, and a considerable advance in price, has therefore taken 
place. 

In the prices of Dry Goods, there is not much difference be- 
tween Vincennes and some of the stores in Cayuga county. 
In respect to Groceries on the Ohio River, as well as on the Wabash, 
the following retail prices are current : 

Coffee, per pound $ 37§ 

When scarce 50 

New Orleans sugar, per pound 25 

Loaf sugar, per pound (on the Ohio river) 37 5 

Loaf sugar, per pound (at Vincennes) 50 

Young Hyson, per pound 1 50 

Brandy, per gallon 6 

Madeira Wine, per gallon, first quality (at Vincennes) 8 

Common Rum, per gallon 4 

Iron, per pound, retail 16 

Ham, per pound, retail 25 

Together with Salmon and Herring, Shad are sometimes 
brought from New Orleans, and retailed at 25 cents a pound, or 
62^ cents each. Mackerel 25 cents a piece. White fish are 
brought from the neighbourhood of Detroit. 

Since the Kanhawa works have been monopolized, salt* has 
greatly advanced in price along the Ohio. When we were at Vin- 
cennes; it was said that a large quantity could be bought at $5, 
but $6 was the common price. Now it is sold at $10 a barrel, and 

♦Salt at Cincinnati, in 12 mo. 1818, was selling at $3 per bushel of 50 lbs. ; and at 
Vevay, it was sold for $3.50. Salt is sold according to the marks made on the barrels 
at the Kanhawa works ; and on account of the leakage of the brine, a loss of weight is 
commonly sustained. 



104 Early Travels in Indiana. 

retailed from $2, to $2.50 a bushel. Salt from the Salines near 
Shawnee Town, at $1.50 a bushel. Last autumn at Fort Harrison, 
it was sold for $15 a barrel, — a scarcity having been occasioned 
by unusual floods in the river 

Common boards sell at $1.50 per 100 feet. Plank at $2. 
• The amount of merchandise in Vincennes two years ago, was 
estimated at one hundred thousand dollars. 

The merchants of that town procure New Orleans goods at 
Louisville. 

Beer and Porter are brought from the breweries in Cincinnati. 

The current charge for transportation of goods from Pittsburgh* to 

Vincennes is per cwt. $1 00 

When boats are scarce 1 25 

From Vincennes to Pittsburgh 3 00 

From Vincennes to New Orleans 1 00 

To Vincennes from New Orleans 4 00 

(b) An innkeeper, in a Vincennes paper of "Feb. 6, 1818," 
offers to accommodate his customers on the following terms, 
viz.: 

"Breakfast $0 25 

Dinner 25 

Supper 25 

Lodging 12| 

Horse to corn and hay one night 37 § 

One horse feed 12£ 

This agrees well with our experience of tavern bills, though in 
some places the charges were higher. For instance, a horse at 
oats and hay one night was 50 cents. But oats are scarce in 
Indiana, and horses are fed on corn, which is shovelled out to 
them without measure. The common practice is to charge 12| 
cents for a feed; that is, as much as the horse can consume, be it 
more. or less. 

In some good houses in the state of Ohio, the fixed price was 75 
cents for every thing that a traveller needs for one night, includ- 
ing his horse. But in that state, sometimes we meet with extor- 
tioners. 

(c) The following News-payers were published in Indiana in 
2d mo. 1818. These were all weekly-. 

*The transportation from Pittsburgh to Louisville is from 40 to 50 cents per cwt. 
when the amount of freight is considerable. 



David Thomas. 105 

"The Western Sun Vincennes E. Stout, Editor 

Indiana Centinel Vincennes S. Dillworth. 

Indiana Register Vevay J. F. Dufour. 

Indiana Republican Madison J. Lodge. 

Dearborn Gazette Lawrenceburg B. Brown. 

Indiana Gazette Corydon A. Brandon. 

Indiana Herald Corydon R. W. Nelson. 

Plain Dealer Brookville B. F. Morris. 

"The above offices, except the Western Sun, have all been 
established since the constitution of this state was formed." 

N.B. — We learn that the Herald is discontinued at Corydon, and the Indianian, 
by the same editor, is now published at Jeffersonville. 

(d) "This was built by the French Roman Catholics, and in 
their own style. It is sixty-six feet in length, about twenty-two 
feet wide, and nine feet from the ground to the eaves. It has a 
kind of steeple, about eight feet high, with a small bell." 

"The Roman Catholics, at present, have no pastor, and no 
other religious society is established. Itinerants of all sorts 
preach here occasionally, and have nearly the same audience." 

(e) "The Academy stands east of the town. It can be seen a 
considerable distance in every direction, and makes a very hand- 
some appearance. It was erected in 1807. The walls are brick; 
the length is sixty-five feet the width forty-four feet, and the 
height three stories. It was designed for eighteen rooms. Ten 
thousand dollars have been expended, and it stands unfinished. 
The fund consists of land, twenty-five miles south of this place. 
The Legislature authorized the sale of a part of this tract, and 
appointed twenty-one trustees to govern the Institution;" but 
the hopes of its founders have not been realized. "Only a common 
school has been kept in it. [March 24, 1817."]. 

"Two large Schools are now kept in this town." 

"A Library was established in 1817, which now consists of 
more than 700 volumes. The annual contribution is two dollars 
on each share." 

(/) This institution wa> chartered on the 10th of September, 
1814, and the capital has been increased to $1,500,000. Nathaniel 
Ewing, President; Isaac Blackford, Cashier. 

A power is vested in the Directors to establish branches, so 
as not to exceed one to every three counties; and one has lately 
been located at Brookville. 

On the "29th of November, 1817, a dividend was declared by 



106 Early Travels in Indiana. 

the Directors at the rate of twelve per cent, per annum, for the 
last six months on amount of stock paid in." 

The charter of the Farmers' and Mechanics' Bank of Madison, 
also bears the date of September 10, 1814. The capital is 3*500,000, 
John Paul, President, and John Sering, Cashier. A branch has 
been fixed at Lawrenceburgh, Thomas Porter, Cashier. 

(g) "This is a brick building, forty by fifty feet, and two 
stories high. It is very handsome and commodious." 

(h) The jail is built of logs. 

(i) The livery stable is of brick, and very large. 

"Above the town, though within sight, they are building a 
steam grist mill and saw mill. The latter is so far completed, as to 
have commenced sawing timber for itself and the grist mill, 
on the 1st of January, 1818." 



Vincennes is situate one hundred and twenty miles by the 
road, north-west of Louisville; one hundred and seventy east of 
St. Louis by the present route; three hundred miles south south- 
west of Chicago; and one hundred and sixty miles northeast of 
Kaskaskias. 

The number of Inhabitants at Vincennes has been estimated at 
from 1,500 to 2,000. 

"Unimproved lots of half an acre, on the principal streets, 
sell from five hundred to one thousand dollars. In the back 
streets, the prices of lots are from fifty to one hundred dollars." 
7 mo. 1817. 

To their former intercourse with the Indians, we trace a sin- 
gular practice in this town. "As soon as it becomes dark every 
store is shut up." My correspondent adds, that "though licen- 
tiousness and dissipation prevail, they also rigidly abstain from 
opening them on the sabbath." 

Climate is always an interesting subject to the geographical 
enquirer; and all my correspondents, aware of this circumstance, 
have been minute in their remarks. "Accurate observations on 
the thermometer have been made and registered by Judge Parke," 
of whom my obliging friend J. B. Bennett, procured the follow- 
ing statement. It will be perceived that an account of one month 
has been inadvertently omitted. 



David Thomas. 107 

EXTREMES OF FARENHEIT'S THERMOMETER. 

Deg. Deg. 

"December, 1816 17 lowest 61 highest 

January, 1817 11 below zero 60 

February 5 below zero 66 

March 18 70 

April 39 83 

June 52 88 

July 58 95 

August 53| 95 

September 40 93 

October 23 80 

November : 24 70 

December 2 66 

January, 1818 5 below zero 59 

February (to the 12th) 16 below zero 40" 

As the seasons are infinitely irregular, I deem it best to give the 
views of my correspondents separate and entire. The difference 
in their statements, may be reconciled by considering that some 
have drawn conclusions from a long series of, observations; and 
that others have been guided by a few recent facts. A consider- 
able difference of temperature is also observable, between the 
black sandy prairies, and the clayey woodlands. 



"The winds in summer prevail most from south and west; in 
the winter from the north and east.* East winds generally pro- 
duce falling weather. West winds are common with a clear sky. 

"The Summer is generally dry, especially in the month of 
August. At such times vegetation is checked, particularly in 
sandy soils, and the streams diminish considerably. Wells, how- 
ever, seldom or never fail at Vincennes. 

"In winter, the atmosphere is generally clear and cold. The 
Snows are seldom more than three inches deep, and are commonly 
melted by sunshine. Sleighing sometimes continues for two or 
three weeks. 

"Spring is attended by much wet and cloudy weather. Vegeta- 
tion commences about the 20th of March. The peach blossoms 

*I do not consider this to be incompatible with the statement which 1 received at 
Lick Creek. The direction of winds thro' the vallies of large streams and over elevated 
plains, in the same neighbourhood, is often very different; and this circumstance de- 
serves the attention of all those who study Meteorology. The following ex- 
tract from Cook's last Voyage, will place this subject in a clear and proper point of 
view: — 



108 - Early Travels in Indiana. 

the last of that month. Grass is abundant after the first of April, 
but young cattle do well in the river bottoms during the whole 
winter. The strawberry ripens the last week in April. Wheat 
harvest commences from the 20th to the 30th of June. Vernal 
frosts have been noticed as late as the first of May, and the earliest 
autumnal frosts about the first of November. To this, however, 
there are some exceptions. July 18, 1817."* 



"The depth of our snows for the last ten years, has not exceeded 
six inches. The thickness of the ice, in the Wabash, is sometimes 
ten or twelve inches. Ploughing may be commenced by the tenth 
of March, and carried on with very little subsequent interruption 
from frost or snow. Strawberries ripen about the 15th of May. 
White frosts are sometimes seen in the early part of April, and have 
been known on the 23d of October. March 30, 1817." 

"Winter generally sets in about the first of January, and 
breaks up about' the first of March. Last winter the thickness of 
the ice in the Wabash, was eight inches; and this winter [1818] 
about the same. The snow at Princeton has been four inches deep; 
at Vincennes eight inches deep for five weeks, and at Fort Harrison 
twelve inches deep." 

"Wheat harvest is generally about the last of June or first of 
July. Strawberries ripen about the middle of May. In backward 
seasons, common fruit trees are in full bloom about the middle of 
April, but often earlier. Vernal frosts are all over by the first of 
May, tho' last spring was an exception. Autumnal frosts at Vin- 
cennes commonly begin about the first of November. Last fall I 
saw beans, tobacco, and other tender vegetables, unhurt by 
frosts on the 4th of November; but in the vicinity of Fort Harri- 
son, frosts appear in September. The snows at this place are very 
light. Eight inches has been the deepest which has fallen in many 
years. Last winter there was little; but we had sleet, which made 
good sleighing for four or five days. 

"I have seen more serene weather, during this winter, than in 
ten winters in your country." 

♦"Before we had got up one anchor [in Awalska Bay] so violent a gale sprung up 
from the northeast, that we thought proper to moor again, supposing from the position 
of the entrance of the bay, that the current of wind would in all probability set up 
the channel. The pinnace was dispatched to examine the passage, and returned with 
intelligence, that the wind blew violently from the southeast, with a great swell setting 
into the bay." 



David Thomas. 109 

"On the 7th of November I left Corydon, and arrived on the 
13th. On our way, the snow fell about three inches deep. The 
weather from that time till the 20th, was cold, when it became 
mild, and continued so till the 10th of January. On the morn- 
ing of the 18th, the mercury stood eleven degrees below zero; 
the Wabash River closed, and has remained so ever since., [10th 
February, 1817.] 

"The snow has not at any time fallen more than three inches, 
and but three times in all. There is a peculiarity in this climate, 
and the absence of turbulent winds is remarkable. The old set- 
tlers agree, that there has been less snow than usual; but that 
the cold has continued longer than at almost any time within their 
recollection. Yet there has not been five days that a northern 
man would be uncomfortable at work with his coat off. 

"The farmer may be well employed the whole autumn and 
winter. Prairie lands, in particular, may be broken up with the 
plough from the first of March until the first of November, and 
most of his laborious business may be performed in temperate 
seasons. 

"I am told that a great portion of the year is warmer than in 
the vicinity of Philadelphia, but the nights in summer are much 
cooler. The mercury is seldom above 94 degrees, although it has 
been at 98. Wild greens are sometimes procured the first week in 
March. Peas with common attention are fit for use by the 15th 
of May, but with care may be produced much earlier." — W.P.B. 



I learned, while in that country, that the snow in eight years 
had not at any time exceeded five inches in depth. In the remark- 
able snow of 3 mo. 31, 1807, it was about eleven inches; but in 
Scipio it was two feet. 

Except when walking at noon day, we were seldom disagree- 
ably warm, although we wore boots, with coat, vest and pantaloons 
of fulled cloth; neither did we find one night in which a blanket was 
uncomfortable, unless in apartments heated by the afternoon sun. 

These observations include a period of ten days near the 
Wabash river; but we were told that on the prairies it was some- 
times very hot;* and indeed this has been sufficiently indicated 
by the thermometer. 

*M. Birkbeck, however, says "the heat of this climate is not so oppressive as I 
expected. I have been using strong exercise through three of the hottest days that 
have been experienced in four years. On one of these days, I walked with my gun in 
the Prairie, and traveled on horseback the other two, without great inconvenience. 
The only sultry night I have experienced proved the prelude to a thunder storm". 



110 Early Travels in Indiana. 

Near Salem, on the high table land at the sources of Blue River, 
I was assured, that in the winter of 1815-16, the sleighing con- 
tinued for six weeks, though in part of that time the depth of the 
snow did not exceed one and a half inches. In Cayuga county, 
steady cold for such a period would be very remarkable: but the 
south winds, which often occur within the vicinity of the lakes, 
dissolve snows of common depth in a few hours. It appears that 
Indiana is exempt from these sweeping gales, and that the snows 
are melted by sunshine. 



As a test to these remarks, I give the following extracts from 
Dr. Drake's excellent "Picture of Cincinnati." This town it 
should be recollected, is situate in a deep reverberating valley of 
the Ohio; -that part of the waters of this river arrive from the 
south, while those of the Wabash come from the regions of steady 
cold in winter; and though Vincennes is one third of a degree 
further south, probably the temperature is not higher than at 
Cincinnati. 

The dates of his Calendar of Flora "are the mean terms of 
several years observations." From this list I can give only a 
few items, but the whole of his remarks deserve attention. 

March 5. Commons becoming green. 

April 8. Peach tree in full flower. 

April 18. Lilac tree in full flower. 

April 20. Apple tree in full flower. 

April 24. Dogwood tree in full flower. 

May 9. Flowering locust in full bloom. 

June 4. Cherries beginning to ripen. 

June 4. Raspberries beginning to ripen. 

From 1806 to 1813 inclusive, the lowest extreme of Farenheit 
was eleven degrees below 0, and the highest ninety-eight degrees. 

"The greatest degree of cold ever observed at this place was 
on the 8th of January, 1797; when, according to Governor Sar- 
gent, the mercury fell to eighteen degrees below zero." 

"The quantity of snow which falls at Cincinnati is inconsid- 
erable. The deepest that has occurred was perhaps ten inches; 
but four is about the ordinary depth, and many are not more than 



David Thomas. Ill 

two or three. The ground seldom remains covered longer than two 
or three days." 

"The latest veneral [vernal] frosts are generally at the close of 
the first week in May. 

"In general, the last of September is the earliest period at 
which white frost is perceptible in the valley of the Ohio." 



The Ohio Countries have been considered much warmer, in 
the same parallels, than the Atlantic states." This opinion, Dr. 
Drake has controverted with much ability; and his independence 
on this occasion, entitles him to the respect of every friend to 
natural science. He admits a difference of temperature, but deems 
this to consist more in the distribution than in the absolute quan- 
tity of heat. 

I am inclined to believe, however, that this difference of dis- 
tribution is in favour of the Western Country. Observations made 
near Schuylkill and in Cincinnati, at sunrise and at 2 P.M. though 
averaging the same, will give very unequal views of those climates 
In the south-eastern part of Pennsylvania, the approach of even- 
ing is often attended by an uncomfortable heat which is frequently 
protracted until midnight, while on the western side of the 
mountains a refreshing coolness prevails. Here then, are several 
hours, of which we have no account, and which would, in summer, 
considerably affect the thermometrical register. If vegetation is 
equally advanced at Cincinnati under a lower temperature, the 
inference is clear that spring is milder than on the western f east- 
ern] side of the mountains. 

In addition to our own observations on the coolness at even- 
ing, I select the following notices: 

"The dew, in the woody vallies of this country, is so copious 
in the summer and early autumn, as to be felt before sunset. In 
the night it sprinkles from the trees like drops of rain; but in 
more elevated and open situations, its quantity is much less." 
Drake. 

"Melting, oppressive, sultry nights are unknown here. A 
cool breeze always renders the night refreshing." Birkbeck's 
Notes at Cincinnati. 

"The nights are more comfortable than they are even in Vir- 
ginia," Cramer, on the Climate of Mobile. 



112 Early Travels in Indiana. 

The water of the Wabash forms a good lather with soap. At 
Pittsburgh, for washing, the river water was good, but it becomes 
harder in its descent. At Cincinnati an increase of lime was evi- 
dent; and near the mouth of the Wabash, the water of the Ohio 
was hard. 

The reader may observe that limestone is scarce above Pitts- 
burgh, but in parts of Ohio, Kentucky, and Indiana the quantity 
is immense. It appears, that in this stone there is always more or 
less gypsum. 

The Wabash has a gentle current, except at the Rapids, twenty- 
three miles below Vincennes. This obstruction, however, is 
not very difficult, as flat bottomed scows eleven feet wide, have 
readily ascended. "In dry seasons, it is necessary to lighten 
boats." 

"The Rapids are occasioned by flat rocks, which extend across 
the river and might easily be removed." 

"Steam* boats may navigate this river from four to six months 
in the year." 

The distance from Vincennes to the mouth, has been variously 
represented. It was formerly estimated at one hundred and fifty 
miles, and in some instances the computation has been reduced 
to one hundred. It appears to be about one hundred and twenty. 
Boats frequently go up in six days, but ten days are more com- 
monly required. 

The south wind which prevails in spring, and which greatly 
facilitates the ascent of boats, often becomes a head wind in 
consequence of the winding channel of the river. 

"The Wabash is boatable about four hundred and fifty miles. 
Perogues have been taken out of this river into the Miami of the 
Lake. In low water the portage is nine miles. This communica- 
tion is not so much used now as formerly." 

Neither the Ohio nor the Wabash can be ascended in times of 
full flood by common boats. The advantage which has been 
taken of the bayous on the latter river, has been noticed. 

My friend, D. Steer, observed that the navigation of White 
River must be difficult on account of its crookedness, as a boat, 
without great exertions and continual care, will cross the cur- 
rent and run a-ground. The Wabash is also remarkable for its 
serpentine course, and from Vincennes to Fort Harrison, which is 

*"It is expected that a steam boat will be in complete operation on the Wabash, 
next spring or summer." Letter of 6 mo. 16, 1818. 



David Thomas. 113 

only reckoned seventy miles by land, it is computed to be one 
hundred and fifty by water. 

"The Wabash is four hundred yards wide at its mouth, three 
hundred at Vincennes, and two hundred at Fort Harrison. It is 
fordable in many places." 

To avoid accompanying boats in the tardy ascent of this river, 
many travellers land at Evansville* which is situate at the mouth 
of Great Pigeon Creek, and proceed to Vincennes by land. The 
distance is fifty-six miles. The road is tolerably good in summer, 
and much used; but after the autumnal rains, quicksands are fre- 
quent in the barrens through this country. 

Princeton stands on the road between these towns, and is 
twenty-eight miles from each. It is four miles south of the 
Potoka river on a handsome elevation. The following list was 
made in 1 mo. 1818. 

"Brick houses, three; frame houses, ten; log houses eighty. 
Total ninety-three. Six stores of merchandise; three taverns; 
three lawyers; two physicians. There is also a court house, jail, 
clerk's office, recorder's office, post office, and the following 
mechanics' shops: blacksmiths, two; cabinet makers, one; gun- 
smiths, one; shoemakers, two; taylor, one; saddlers, two; hat- 
ters, one; tannery, one; chairmaker, one." 

"The inhabitants are principally Kentuckians." 



"Instances of longevity are frequent. There are now living 
in Vincennes four Frenchmen, who were at the defeat of General 
Braddock, and who have lived here between fifty and sixty years. 
There are, also, two French women between eighty and ninety 
years old. One person by the name of Mills, died on the Wabash, 
aged one hundred and fifteen years." 3 mo. 30, 1817. 

"A soldier who was with the troops that defeated general 
Braddock, now resides here. He is a stout healthy man, and able 
to labour, though near one hundred years old. He has always 
been temperate." July 1817. 

This is not used to invalidate the first statement. Another 
account says, "last year there were four Frenchmen at Vincennes, 
who were in Braddock's defeat, and two this year." 1818. 

*The mouth of Great Pigeon forms one of the best harbours between Pittsburgh 
and New Orleans. 



114 Early Travels in Indiana. 

The army worm is periodical. The cut worm and the cater- 
pillar are annual, but their depredations are inconsiderable. The 
weevil is unknown on the Wabash." 



The correctness of Thomas Jefferson's opinion, that the Bee 
is not a native of our continent, has been questioned. I have 
therefore been particular in my inquiries, and the following state- 
ment will be read with interest. 

"It appears that the time has been, when the bee was not 
known in our country. The old French settlers saw none; and 
toward the Mississippi, it has not been more than twenty or 
twenty-five years since it was first discovered. J. M'Donald 
informs me, that in the Military bounty lands above the junction 
of the Illinois with the Mississippi, which he surveyed last winter, 
the bee has not been seen more than fifteen years." 

Another correspondent says, "Bees are very plenty in the 
woods; and as the Indians here call them "white people's flies", 
it is believed they are not natives. 

"Great quantities of honey have been found in the woods 
above Fort Harrison. One man found twelve bee-trees in less 
than half a day." 6 mo. 16. 1818. 



Pine grows up the Wabash, and on the knobs of the Ohio 
and Silver Creek." It appears, however, to be a scarce article, 
and even window-sash is made of black walnut. 

"Red cedar, of good quality, is found up the Wabash." 
"I have seen neither the chestnut nor cucumber tree in this 
country." 



Wherever the fire ceases to ravage, wild fruits soon become 
abundant. The plumb, the crab apple, and the persimmon 
trees appear in the borders of the Prairies; and the grape-vine 
should be included in this remark. Near M. Hoggatt's, we judged 
that a hogshead of hazel nuts might be readily collected. A corre- 
spondent confirms these observations. 

"This country produces grapes in the greatest abundance. I 
came down the Wabash eight miles by water. The shores are 



David Thomas. 115 

lined with willows, many eight or nine inches in diameter, and the 
whole appear to be loaded with grape vines. Hazel nuts are equally 
plenty. The same may be said of the black walnut and hickory 
nut, and of the latter there are several kinds. These afford food 
in abundance for hogs, and they live through the winter in the 
woods without any other sustenance." — "It is not uncommon for a 
farmer to kill one hundred hogs and receive six hundred dollars 
for them, without giving them one ear of corn. I know one man, 
who sold pork this winter [1818] to the amount of one thousand 
dollars, without one dollar's cost for food." 

"The Pecan in the middle is about the size of a white oak 
acorn, but much longer, and terminates at each end in a point. 
I think these are more delicious than the small shell bark. 

"The Persimmon [near Vincennes] is quite plenty. It grows 
on a large shrub, or small tree. The fruit is about the size of a 
small peach, and is very delicious. The green fruit is remark- 
ably astringent; and if eaten, affects the mouth so much, that for 
some time the person is almost incapable of speaking. 

"The papaw is another fruit which is unknown in New York. 
I have seen some trees of these twenty or twenty-five feet in 
height. The fruit is cylindrical, and larger than a turkey egg, 
ripens late in autumn, and then becomes yellow. The seeds like 
those of the persimmon, resemble gourd seed. The scent and 
flavour are too luscious to be agreeable to those who are unused 
to this fruit; but the disgust soon abates, and we find it highly 
delicious." 

With these fruits, I have been familiar from infancy, but 
have preferred the language of my correspondent. 



"Wherever a high piece of land appears on one side of the 
River, the opposite shore is low and sunken; and from Raccoon 
Creek, fifteen miles above Fort Harrison to the mouth of the river, 
I believe there is no exception to this remark. 

"There is one inconvenience attending this country, exclu- 
sive of the overflowing of the Wabash. All its tributary streams 
after a heavy shower of rain, rise above the banks; and overflow 
the low land adjoining, which on all, is of considerable extent. 
In time of high water, it is one of the most difficult countries to 
travel through, I ever saw. I have known it for more than 
four weeks at one time, that no person could get away from Union 
Prairie, without swimming his horse, or going in a boat." 



116 Early Travels in Indiana. 

"The Buffalo has totally abandoned our country, but the Elk 
still remains in many places." 

"Raccoons are in great plenty, and very destructive to corn. 

"The Pole Cat or Skunk are very numerous through out the 
country, as well on prairie as on wood land. 

"The Opossum also inhabits this country in great numbers. 
Some are as white as snow, and others of a light grey, resembling 
in colour the grey rabbit. 

"The Porcupine has been seen in this country, but is very 
scarce. 

"The Prairie Wolf is numerous. In size, it is a medium 
between the red fox and the common grey wolf. The colour is 
grey. Its ears are sharp and erect like those of the fox. Unless 
several are in company, it is not destructive to sheep; but it 
destroys lambs and young pigs. On Christmas day, 1816, thirteen 
were killed on Fort Harrison Prairie without firing a gun. During 
the same winter, there were about thirty killed on Union Prairie, 
by running them down with dogs and horses. It is very resolute 
when attacked and unable to escape; no dog alone is able to sub- 
due it. In the summer season it is not to be seen; but in winter 
it frequents the prairies in great numbers. 

"The grey and the black wolf are also natives. Whether these 
are different species or not, I must leave undetermined." 

"I find no black squirrels in this country, but it abounds with 
grey ones hardly so large as the black squirrel with you." 



"The Pelican, so common on the Mississippi, also frequents 
tnis river, but not in great numbers. I saw the head of one which 
had been taken near Vincennes. From the point of the bill, which 
is from seven to ten inches long, a pouch or loose skin extends to 
the breast, which would contain about ten quarts." 

"The Swan is sometimes seen on this river." 

The Crow appears in great numbers, and are very destructive 
to corn." 

"A bird inhabits this country, called the sandy hill Crane. 
Its size is remarkable. When full grown and standing erect (for 
its legs and neck are very long) it is between five and six feet 



David Thomas. 117 

in height. The colour if nearly that of iron rust. I have seen large 
flocks on the prairies. It is very wild and noisy. When slightly 
wounded, no dog can approach it with impunity." 

"The Prairie Hen is rarely seen in summer; but in winter, it 
is more numerous on the prairies than quails are in the state of 
New York. The size is nearly that of the common domestic hen. 
It is spotted like the guinea fowl, but the colour is browner, like 
the pheasant. The tail is shorter and does not spread like that of 
the pheasant. The difference between the cock and the hen is not 
greater than in those of the quail; the male is a little larger, and 
the stripes on the side of the head are a little brighter than those 
of the female. It can fly much farther, and with more apparent 
ease, than either the quail or pheasant. As an article of food, I 
think it inferior to the dung-hill fowl. It lays about twenty eggs, 
and brings forth its young in the early part of summer. Though its 
common food is procured in the woods, it is fond of corn and 
grain." 

"The Robin and the red headed Woodpecker are numerous." 

"On the approach of any large bird the Parroquets immed- 
iately commence flying round and round in flocks, screaming most 
hideously. In this way, they escape the hawk." 

"The Hen Hawk is not very numerous." 

"Wild Turkies abound in this country. Wild geese and ducks 
are also plenty. I have never seen a loon in these waters." 

"The Wabash abounds with fish of many kinds; which, in the 
months of April, May and June, may be readily caught with the 
hook and line." 

The Gar or Bill fish is more than two feet in length. It is 
quite slim. The bill is about six inches long, tapering to a point. 
Its scales are very close, thick, and hard." 

"The strength of this fish is great. In a small Creek which 
flows into the Wabash, I discovered a considerable number, and 
caught several in my hands; but was absolutely unable to hold 
one." 

There are three kinds of Cat-fish: the Mississippi cat, the mud 
cat, and the bull head. Some of the first have weighed one hun- 
dred and twenty pounds. The mud cat is covered with clouded 
spots, and is a very homely fish. The head is very wide and flat. 
Some have weighed one hundred pounds. 

"The real sturgeon is found in the Wabash, though the size is 



118 Early Travels in Indiana. 

not large. These have been taken from twenty to sixty pounds 
weight. 

"The shovel fish or flat nose is another species of sturgeon. It 
weighs about twenty pounds. 

"The pond pike is taken in. ponds from one to three feet long, 
but very slim. It is an excellent fish. 

"The river pike is large and highly esteemed, but scarce. 

"The drum or white perch weighs from one to thirty pounds. 
It is shaped like the sun fish. 

"The black perch or bass is excellent, and weighs from one to 
seven pounds. 

"The streaked bass is scarce. 

"The Buffalo fish is of the sucker kind, and very common. 
Weight from two to thirty pounds. 

"The rock Mullet is sometimes seen three feet long. It is slim, 
and weighs from ten to fifteen pounds. 

"The red horse is also of the sucker kind. It is large and bony, 
weighing from five to fifteen pounds. 

"The Jack pike or pickerel is an excellent fish, and weighs from 
six to twenty pounds." 

In another communication, I found the silver-sides noticed 
without any description. "It weighs from three to six pounds." 

The eel is frequently taken in the Wabash, and weighs from 
one to three pounds. I was told that no fish was found in these 
waters of a good quality for pickling; and the facts, that mackerel 
are brought over the mountains from Philadelphia, and white 
fish from Detroit, tend to confirm that statement. 



"The fresh water clam or muscle is so plenty, as to be gathered 
and burnt for lime. Twenty years ago, I am told, no other kind 
of lime was procured." 



"Craw fish, which resembles the lobster, is very common in the 
low lands of this country. It is a size larger than the common 
crab. It works in the ground, and throws up heaps of earth about 
six inches high, and hollow within. These little mounds are very 
numerous, and the surface of the ground resembles a honey comb." 



David Thomas. 119 

"The Ground Mole of this country is nearly as large as the com- 
mon rat. It is very injurious in gardens. It moves along at the 
depth of two or three inches under ground, raising a considerable 
ridge; and not only loosens the roots of vegetables, but devours 
them. It is remarkable how fast these little animals can force 
their way through the earth." 

"Horned cattle are subject to the murrain, which sometimes has 
been very destructive. It may be prevented by care, and cured by 
proper applications." 

"In the old settled parts of this country, but little fodder is 
saved; the wood pastures are exhausted; and the cattle in spring, 
become poor, get sickly and die." 



"The most common diseases are fevers and agues, with some 
liver complaints. The dysentery is very little known. In my 
opinion, diseases yield sooner to medicine than in more northern 
climates." 



"The prevailing diseases of this country are bilious, which 
sometimes terminate in malignant typhus. It is quite rare to 
hear of sickness from November until some time in the summer " 



"A list of the prevailing diseases in this country is subjoined. 

"Typhus, gravior et minor — Bilious, intermittent and remit- 
tent fevers. Pleurisy is frequent in spring. Rheumatism and 
consumption are very rare, compared with New- York. A wet 
spring followed by drowth is an unfavourable indication." 



From my Diary of 7 mo. 15. I copy the following paragraphs. 

'It ought not to be concealed that at present in this country, 
there are many sick people; and we believe that there are many 
situations, some of which have been noticed, that may properly 
be denominated sickly; but we could not, with any propriety, 
extend this remark to the country in general. We know of no 
person who is sick near this river, but who would have been sick, 



120 Early Travels in Indiana. 

probably, with the same exposure in any part of the United 
States. The manner of removing hither, is such, that our surprise 
is rather excited that iso few are diseased. Many are cooped up 
during the heat of summer for six weeks, exposed to the powerful 
reflection of the sun from the water, while the roof over their heads 
is heated like an oven. In addition, they have the smell of bilge 
water, and the exhalations from the muddy shores. Their daily 
drink is supplied by the river; its warmth relaxes the tone of the 
stomach; and the putrid particles which float through it, operate 
unresisted. 

'On landing, their situation is not much better. Huts insuffi- 
cient to shelter them from storms, or from the chilling damps of 
the night, become their homes; and bad water, with provisions 
not well chosen, and to which the constitution is not habituated, 
combine to derange to system. When this event happens, and 
fevers prevail, the occasional cause is not removed, and in many 
cases no proper medicine is administered. Such have been the 
circumstances of many emigrants from the eastward, and es- 
pecially of those who were indigent.' 

These paragraphs explain the causes of disease which in that 
summer so remarkably prevailed near the Wabash. Of the sick, 
the chief part were new comers. In 1815 the same observation was 
made; and from the population of Vincennes, and of the district 
immediately around it, which was estimated at three thousand, 
"twenty-five persons died, but nineteen of that number were 
strangers." 

In the first settling of Cayuga county, it was remarked that 
emigrants from the eastward, were more sickly than those who 
crossed the mountains from the south. The causes of disease could 
be clearly traced to the marshes of the Seneca river, which was the 
common thoroughfare in summer, before the present turnpike 
road was completed. 

From what I have observed, a change of climate (where it 
chiefly consists of a change of temperature) has but a slight 
influence on a healthy constitution; and this will appear rational 
when we consider, that the heat of summer in high latitudes, is 
frequently as great and as oppressive as is regions far to the 
south. 

But a change of climate is often attended by other changes 
of greater importance. Excessive and unaccustomed fatigue, 
uncomfortable lodgings, and inferior diet, are only part of the 
vicissitudes to which travellers in new countries are exposed. 



David Thomas. 121 

The danger to this class is sometimes increased by inquietude of 
mind, which prompts the convalescent to exertions beyond his 
strength; and a relapse in fevers is frequently fatal. 

Having thus brought the danger into view, some remarks on 
the best means to avoid it, may not be inappropriate. 

In the spring of 1817 the late S. R. Brown, desired my opinion 
on the question, whether a residence in Indiana would be favour- 
able to the health of emigrants from higher latitudes? A paper was 
accordingly prepared under the disadvantages of great haste and 
much indisposition, and without any corrections, published in his 
Western Gazetteer. The advice which it contains, however, 
I am persuaded is of importance; and having apprised him that 
that view of the subject was intended for this work, I shall pro- 
ceed with the transcription, altering, where I deem it proper. 
Much of this is intended for emigrants from the eastern states. 

Descend the river after the commencement of autumnal 
frosts. The effect of these in neutralizing or preventing putrid 
exhalations has been frequently observed; and the smell from 
the shores after a flood, in warm weather, is very offensive. 

Avoid going in a vessel with a leaky roof. A crowded boat 
is an inconvenient place to dry wet clothes; and the expense of 
being comfortably sheltered, will frequently be less than the dam- 
age in furniture, without considering the probable loss of health. 
To bend thin boards for a cover is customary, but not sufficient. 
I have seen no roof of that kind which would be a shelter from a 
driving shower of rain. A sick woman said to me near the Wabash, 
"I ascribe my sickness, in great measure, to one dismal night that I 
endured on the river. The rain poured through every part of the 
roof, and to sit on the bed with my children under an umbrella 
was our only refuge". 

If, however, to descend in spring is unavoidable, start as soon 
as the river is clear of ice. Make no delay; for not only health, but 
life may depend on a timely escape from the effluvia of those 
shores. 

If the river be low, and by this or other unavoidable delays, 
warm weather should surround the emigrant on the river, guard 
against a heated roof overhead. Boards nailed on the inside, or 
an awning on the outside, will be important auxiliaries to com- 
fort and to health. 

At such times, no river water should be used without filter- 
ing. This operation may be expeditiously performed in a vessel 
like an upright churn with two bottoms. These are three or four 



122 Early Travels in Indiana. 

inches apart; and the upper, in which many small holes are bored, 
receives in the center, a tube one inch in diameter, extending above 
the vessel, and communicating with the cavity between the bot- 
toms. After spreading a cloth on the upper bottom, fill the vessel 
upward with well washed sand, and from above let in water down- 
ward through the tube. In a short time it will rise through 
the sand, divested of its impurities, and run over at an ear in 
sufficient quantities for every culinary purpose. In a few days 
the apparatus may need cleansing. As the filth will be chiefly 
below, a hole opened in the lower bottom will allow it to pass 
off. See Melish's Travels, vol. 1. p. 159. 

If the water have not an agreeable coolness, cider or strong 
beer should be mixed with it for drink, as the warmth without 
some stimulant will relax the tone of the stomach, and predispose 
the system to disease. 

But beware of spiritous liquors. If such, however, are taken, 
let the quantity be cautiously regulated. Every excess debilitates; 
and to think of escaping disease, by keeping always in a state of 
excitement, is desperate folly. When fevers attack such subjects 
it is commonly fatal. Some men who travel much, and who have 
neither moral nor religious scruples to dissuade them, totally 
abstain from spirits in unhealthy situations. Rich wholesome* 
food, guards the stomach much better from infection, nor would 
I omit in the list of such articles, well cured ham and strong 
coffee. 

Travellers should never change their diet for the worse. 
The fatiuges [fatigues] of mind and body, in most cases, require 
that it should be for the better. To live comfortably is true econ- 
omy. Any additional expense in provisions would form but a 
small item in a doctor's bill, without taking into view the loss of 
time, of comfort, or of the expenses of nursing. To lay in a good 
stock of wholesome provisions should therefore, by no means, be 
neglected. 

On landing, let one of the first objects be to provide a com- 
fortable habitation. Water from brooks should be filtered, but 
during summer no dependance ought to be placed on this supply. 
If springs are not convenient, dig wells. Much of the sickness of 
new countries is induced by bad water. 

Let no temptation prevail on the emigrant to go fishing in 

*In a medical author I find the following interesting remark: "The predisposing 
cause of intermittents, is clearly debility, with penury of blood; because the robust, 
and such as have a generous diet, are most free from this disease." 



David Thomas. 123 

warm weather. Of the smell of the shores I have spoken. To be 
wet is imprudent; and to be exposed to the chilling damps of the 
night, greatly increases the danger. But fresh fish* are unwhole- 
some, except for a slight change of diet. We know of no new set- 
tlement that has been healthy, where the inhabitants live chiefly 
on fresh fish. If, however, fish must be eaten, buy them; any 
price is cheaper than health; and if fishing must be done, do 
it in cloudy weather; but at night be comfortably sheltered. 

Let no fertility of the river flats be an inducement to cultivate 
them, until naturalized to the climate; or more properly, recovered 
from the fatigues attending emigration, for composure of mind is as 
important as refreshment to the body. When the body is debili- 
tated either by labour or fasting, it is more susceptible of infec- 
tion, and these exhalations after floods are putrid. Land of an 
inferior quality, in a dry airy situation will yield greater neat 
profits. 

Delay in taking medicine, is often fatal. The patient ought 
not to wait till he is down sick, but if the stomach is disordered, 
which is the case at the commencement of all fevers, a glass of 
pearl ash and water may afford relief. The quantity is stated at 
page 147. If this should prove insufficient, take an emetic, or 
small doses of emetic tartar, only to nauseate. Should this pro- 
duce an intermission, with a moist skin and clean tongue, take 
Peruvian bark, or those of dogwood, (box-wood) willow, or oak, 
which have been found eminently useful. 

Of alkaline medicines, perhaps pear lash is the best. Its good 
effect in cholera morbus, diarrhoea, &c. have been often experi- 
enced; and it is always an excellent preventive. It sweetens the 
stomach and promotes digestion. 

I have one caution more for the emigrant. The water, in 
places, throughout all the Ohio country, is saturated with sul- 
phate of lime. This, like the sulphates of soda and magnesia, is 
cathartic; and in one ounce doses, is an active medicine. Incon- 
venience to grown persons from these waters, however, is rarely 
experienced; but on small children the effect is considerable, and 

*"The Roman Catholics, who, during forty days Lent, rigourously abstain from 
flesh, but indulge freely in a fish diet, are said to be less nourished by it, and to become 
sensibly thinner and weaker, as Haller, indeed, tells us he had himself experienced. 

"The disorders of the system, the herpetic, leprous and scorbutic eruptions to which 
the ichthyophagi are said to be more especially liable, show, we think with other ob- 
servations, that fish is neither so easily digested nor assimilated to the human system 
as flesh. 

"Sea fish are more flourishing than those which inhabit the rivers and fresh waters." 
Edin. Encycl. Art. Aliment. 



124 Early Travels in Indiana. 

to those just weaned it has often proved fatal, by inducing 
diarrhoea,* which exhausts the patient, for no medicine can give 
permanent relief while the occasional cause is unremoved. This is 
easily done by refusing water and giving milk. If the disease 
is far advanced, paregoric may be necessary to diminish the 
irritability. 

From the same cause, the waters in many parts of the Western 
District of New- York, produce a similar effect. I discovered the 
benefit of this practice in one of my children, who seemed wast- 
ing to a skeleton; and have since witnessed much of its good 
effects on others. 



The beautiful bluff above Turtle Creek, noticed at page 170, 
now called Merom, has become the seat of justice for Sullivan 
county; and was selected by commissioners appointed under an 
act of the Legislature. The agent, who was authorized to sell the 
lots, makes the following remarks in his advertisement: 

"It is situate on the east bank of the River, thirty-five miles 
above Vincennes, on that elevated ground known by the name 
of The Bluff, the highest bank of the Wabash from its mouth to 
the northf line of the state. The river washes the base of this 
high land one mile. Freestone [sandstone] and a quality [quan- 
tity] of [impure] limestone, appear in the bank in great abundance. 
Springs in every direction around the town are discovered. 

"From the most elevated point of the bluff, the eye can be 
gratified with the charming view of La Motte Prairie, immediately 
below in front; and with Ellison and Union Prairies on the right 
and left; the whole stretching along the river a distance of not 
less than thirty miles, and all now rapidly settling. In the rear 

♦Children accustomed to take all their food in a liquid form, retain after weaning 
an eagerness for liquids; and as water is generally at hand, it is substituted for the 
mild aliment of which they have been deprived. When either the sulphate of lime or 
of magnesia, is held in solution, these substances operate actively on the delicate fibre 
and the peristaltic motion is greatly increased. In proportion to the loss of moisture 
thus sustained by the system, will be the thirst. With every draught fresh causes of 
irritation succeed, — the motion of the lacleals become inverted — and emaciation and 
debility rapidly ensue. 

tit should have been written east line of the State. In no part of its course does the 
Wabash approach the north line of the state. 



David Thomas. 125 

of this beautiful site, is a nourishing settlement of twenty or thirty 
farmers, three miles east of the town." 

Gill's Prairie, south three miles, has at present a handsome 
population of industrious farmers. 

"A mile and a half from the town, a mill will soon be erected 
on Turtle Creek by a* Mr. Bennett.— June 27, 1817." 

It is with much satisfaction, that we perceive a new name for a 
new town or village. Hitherto when the importations from Europe 
or Asia have been insufficient, it has become necessary to borrow 
from our neighbours, to a degree that is absolutely humiliating; 
and perhaps in no part of the United States is this practice car- 
ried to the same excess as in Ohio. The following list of names 
is copied from Kilbourn's Gazetteer of that state, published in 
1817. 

6 towns or villages of the name of Fairfield. 
5 towns or villages of the name of Franklin. 

5 towns or villages of the name of Goshen. 

10 towns or villages of the name of Green. 

7 towns or villages of the name of Harrison. 
7 towns or villages of the name of Jackson. 

1 1 towns or villages of the name of Jefferson. 

6 towns or villages of the name of Liberty. 
14 towns or villages of the name of Madison. 

5 towns or villages of the name of Milford. 
5 towns or villages of the name of Oxford. 
5 towns or villages of the name of Pleasant. 
5 towns or villages of the name of Richland. 

7 towns or villages of the name of Salem. 

10 towns or villages of the name of Springfield. 
17 towns or villages of the name of Union. 

1 1 towns or villages of the name of Washington. 

12 towns or villages of the name of Wayne. 

To persons who find it necessary for them to impose a name, 
we would suggest, that any thing is more tolerable than the repe- 
titions that now assail us. 



Rapp's congregation are settled at Harmony, fifty miles below 
Vincennes. The cultivation of the vine has engaged their atten- 

*We object to employing the indefinite article in this manner. Though it may seem 
discourteous to attack in an individual, what fashion has sanctioned, yet we mean no 
personal rebuke — entering our protest in general terms against a custom, which in our 
ears has always been harsh, unnecessary and ungraceful. If the writer means in this 
manner to guard against mistaking one person for another, it must at least be conceded, 
that the attempt is awkward and insufficient; and as it is understood for a hint that 
the individual so noticed is obscure, we suggest whether its discontinuance would not 
be an advancement in good manners. 



126 Early Travels in Indiana. 

tion; but the manufacture of cloth, nails, &c. with the production 
of grain has claimed a share. A steam Mill has been erected. 



"We have a law which requires every military and civil officer 
to take an oath or affirmation to suppress duelling in every shape 
and form." It will be well if this oath be not considered as words 
without meaning, for on the opposite side of the Ohio, this 
atrocious practice is quite in fashion. 

"Forty dollars may be collected by a Justice of the Peace." 

I noticed the following vegetables growing indigenously, near 

the Wabash, between Vincennes and Fort Harrison; but am aware 

that this list gives a very imperfect view of the Botany of that 

District. 

Acer saccharinum sugar maple. 

Acer glaucum river maple. 

Acer negundo ash leaved maple. 

Acer rubum soft or red flowering maple. 

Ascelepias decumbens butterfly weed. 

Asclepias syriaca silk weed, Indian hemp. 

Asclepias milk weed and others. 

Annona triloba papaw. 

Arum dracontium many leaved Indian turnip. 

Asarum canadense wild ginger. 

Aralia spinosa angelica tree. 

Aralia racemosa spikenard. 

Ambrosia trifida 

Ambrosia artimisifolia hog or bitter weed. 

Adiantum pedatum maiden hair. 

Bignonia radicans red trumpet flower. 

Corylus americana common hazel. 

Corylus cornuta horned. 

Celtis occidentalis nettle tree or hackberry. 

Cercis canadensis fish blossom, or Judas tree. 

Carex, many species sedge. 

Cassia marylandica wild senna. 

Ceanothus americanus Jersey tea plant. 

Cephalanthus occidentalis button flower. 

Convallaria multiflora Solomon's seal. 

Convolvulus panduratus wild potatoe. 

Carduus, several species thistle. 

Carpinus americana horn beam. 

Circea lutetiana? Enchanter's night shade. 

Collinsonia canadensis horse weed. 

Dyospyros virginiana persimmon. 

Dirca palustris leather wood. 



David Thomas. 127 

Msculus flava* stinking buckeye. 

Evonymus americanus spindle tree. 

Fragaria virginiana strawberry. 

Fagus ferruginea beech. 

Fraxinus ash — white and blue. 

Frasera verticillata Columbo root. 

Guilandina dioica Kentucky coffee tree. 

Gleditsia triacanthos honey locust. 

Monosperma? (almost without spines.) 

Galium, several species goose grass. 

Helianthus, several species Sunflower. 

Hedera quinquefolia poison ivy. 

Hydrangea arborescens 

Impaliens touch-me-not. 

7ns virginica blue flag. 

Juglans pecan 1 „. . pecan. 

Juglans squamosa. . I „ ' shell bark. 

Juglans ovata | „ bitter nut. 

T , Rafinesque . . . 

Juglans J upland pig nut. 

Juglans cinerea black walnut. 

Juglans nigra butter nut, or white walnut. 

J effcrsonia diphylla two leaved Jeffersonia. 

Laurus sassafras sassafras. 

Laurus benzoin spice wood. 

Liquidambar styraciflua sweet gum. 

Liriodendron tulipifera tulip poplar, white wood. 

Lobelia inflata 

Monardo wild mint. 

Morus rubra mulberry. 

Nyssa iutegrifolia gum-tree— pepperidge. 

Platanus occidentalis button wood. 

Populus angulata. cotton wood. 

Pyrus coronaria crab apple. 

Potentilla, two species cinquefoil. 

Podophyllum peltahim mandrake, May apple. 

Polygonum, various species 

Panax quinquefolium ginseng. 

Prunus wild plumb. 

Quercus nigra black oak. 

Quercus alba white oak. 

Quercus rubra red oak. 

Quercus prinos v. paluslris swamp chestnut oak. 

Quercus phellos willow leaved. 

Quercus triloba true black jack. 

Quercus discolor swamp white oak. 

Quercus Spanish oak. 

Robinia pseud-acacia black locust. 

Robinia? (in the swamp east of Vincennes.) 

♦This is not abundant. The wood is of small value. Cattle have been poisoned 
by the fruit. 



128 Early Travels in Indiana. 

Rubus villostis* black berry. 

Rubus occidentalis black raspberry. 

Rhus glabrum smooth sumach. 

Rhus typhinum stag's horn. 

Rhus radicans poison vine. 

Rhus another. 

Smilax rotundifolia green briar. 

Smilax herbaceous. 

Spirea salicafolia willow leaved spirea. 

Spirea herbaceous meadow sweet. 

Salix conifera cone bearing willow. 

Salix nigra black. 

Salix trislis shrub. 

Salix? (with linear leaves near Fort Har- 
rison.) 

Scandix, two species cicely. 

Solanum carolinense] horse nettle, or Irish plumb. 

Tilia americana basswood, or linden. 

Ulmus -. red elm. 

Ulmus white elm. 

Urtica divaricata common nettle. 

Urlica pumila stingless. 

Urtica another. 

Vilis, two species grape vine. 

Vitis vulpina fox grape not observed. 

Verbena, several species vervain. 

Dr. Drake mentions the Catalpa in Indiana as far north as 
Cincinnati, but I did not observe it. 

A plant, which I conjecture to be a species of Planlago, abounds 
in the channels of small streams west of Loghary. It is of a larger 
growth than the P. major. I have not seen it as far west as 
Madison; but on our return I observed it in the state of Ohio, 
between Xenia and Columbus. 

A new species of Viburnum also grows along these streams. It 
resembles the V. dentatum; but the bark is scaly like the Spirea 
opulifolia, and has no suckers like the arrow wood. 



The Potoka discharges its waters into the Wabash, one mile 
below the mouth of White river. It is navigable for boats. Where 

*One of these shrubs had grown up near the branches of a crab tree, which pre- 
vented the stalk from bending until it had attained the height of twelve feet. When 
I observed it, it was finely loaded with ripe fruit. 

tThis vegetable grows in the clayey prairies east of Shakertown. Whether a native, 
or not it is uncertain. It is scantilly armed with spines, and when it takes ; 
of a piece of ground, on account of its deep penetrating roots, is removed with 
culty. 



David Thomas. 129 

the road from Princeton to Vincennes, crosses this stream, the 
current is dull and deep ; but there is a mill-seat j ust below which is 
formed by considerable rapids. 



'Coal is found thirty miles below Fort Harrison, in the banks 
of a small brook. This mine we viewed as we went up the river. 
On the White river, and its branches this fossil is abundant. 
It is also found in the neighbourhood of Fort Harrison. Lime- 
stone appears in considerable quantities in the bank of a small creek 
which empties into the Wabash three miles below that Fort, 
and in several places further up the river.' Diary of 7 mo. 1816. 

"Limestone is found near Princeton. It also appears below 
York, on fraction No. 17, of Township 8, north Range 11 west. 
Coal is found west, directly opposite to Fort Harrison, under a 
bank six feet high. It has also been found under limestone, in the 
Illinois Territory on the line between townships No. 8 and 9, 
north range, 12 west. 1818." 

I have no doubt that coal, limestone, and sandstone will be 
found plentifully in the high woodlands in every part of that coun- 
try, when proper search shall be made. In such soils we have never 
seen the friable earth very deep, and solid rock unquestionably 
forms the foundation of the hills. 



"Last autumn, [1817,] the Indians brought twenty-eight pounds 
of copper to Fort Harrison, in one lump. The metal is so pure, 
that without any refining, it has answered all the purposes of 
imported copper. It is supposed that the Indians found it about 
thirty miles above the mouth of Raccoon creek, in Indiana." My 
friend J. Bennett, from whom I received this account, has kindly 
furnished me with a specimen, and no doubt can exist of its excel- 
lence. Its malleability I have well ascertained. 

But though it should be proved that they found it at the 
place designated, there would be much uncertainty at present, 
whether the discovery is of much importance; that is, whether 
the metal is a native of the rocky strata which underlay the coun- 
try, or whether, like the granite, it has been scattered on the sur- 
face. When the numerous facts which shew that the granite 
arrived from the north are considered, — and also, the resemblance 
of this copper to that on the south shore of lake Superior, — a con- 
jecture, assigning both to the same origin, would be plausible. 

T— 9 



130 Early Travels in Indiana. 

All the best lands near the Wabash river which had not been 
reserved by government, or located by Canadian claimants, were 
sold at auction in the 9 mo. 1816. Much land of the second or third 
quality, (and no inconsiderable part of these kinds is very fertile) 
remained, however, for entry at two dollars an acre payable 
within four years, by instalments. One fourth within two years, 
and the remainder in two equal annual payments. This condition 
is the rule; and eight per cent interest is added to all payments 
after such become due, and eight per cent discount is allowed for 
prompt pay. Thus lands paid for at the time of entry, only cost 
one dollar and sixty three cents an acre. 

To accommodate persons who may be unprepared to make a 
payment in full— or who may wish to secure a lot while they 
attempt further discoveries, — lands are permitted to be entered 
for a certain number of days. This privilege, however, has been 
frequently abused. Entries have been made for the sum of six- 
teen dollars, (one twentieth of the purchase money,) — which con- 
fers the right to remove within forty days, every valuable timber 
tree from the premises; and if no other purchaser appears, the term 
is even lengthened to 90 days. 

Last winter (1817-18) from five to ten dollars was the price of 
Prairie Lands, and from two to five the price ol Wood Lands. 



The fertility of the sandy prairies near the river is very remark- 
able. If lime is a constituent of this soil, the portion must be 
inconsiderable, as acids produce no effervescence. Neither is the 
vegetable matter in much quantity. The finer parts diminish but 
little in the fire, and are changed from black to a reddish brown. 
Hence the fertilizing principle is a mineral earth. 

The idea of soils perpetually fertile, was not original with H. 
Davy, though to him we owe the first scientific view of the sub- 
ject. Vegetable matter soon dissipates, but the primitive earths 
are imperishable; and if my conjecture is correct, these prairies 
will be sources of abundance through distant ages. A field was 
pointed out to me, which had recently been enclosed from the 
commons of Vincennes, and which produced corn of extraordinary 
luxuriance. From the nakedness of this ground it is evident 
that a vegetable soil would soon become sterile. 

One of my correspondents remarks, "We have a prairie below 



David Thomas. 131 

this place, which has been in cultivation seventy or eighty years, 
and now produces well." 

Lord Kaims mentions a field near the Clyde, in Scotland, 
which had annually produced a crop for 101 years, and still retained 
its fertility. The subjoined extract is from the Edinburgh 
Encyclopedia. "The lands of St. J ago, [Chili] though constantly 
cultivated for two centuries and a half, without receiving any 
artificial manure, have suffered no diminution in their amazing 
produce." 

Some of the great Bottom of the Mississippi, between Kas- 
kaskia and Illinois, "has been in cultivation 120 years, and still 
no deterioration has yet manifested itself." Brown's Western 
Ga/etteer. 



"I have lately visited Fort Harrison, passing upwards from 
Vincennes on the Illinois side of the river. After traversing a rich 
tract of woodland four miles, I went five miles through an arm 
of the Grand Prairie. Much of this is too low. Fine woodland, 
three miles wide, separates this from Ellison Prairie, which is a 
rich tract, seven miles long, and averaging three miles in width. 
Good Woodland, but not of the first quality, then extends thir- 
teen miles to La Motte Prairie. This is an extraordinary tract, and 
is eight or nine miles long. I then passed through woodland 
of a good quality ten miles to Union Prairie, on which York village 
is located. Here I crossed the river to the Indiana side. 

"Fort Harrison Prairie is a most delightful tract. It con- 
tains, perhaps, 22,000 acres, including the woodland lying between 
it and the Wabash. This woodland is very fine, and on an inclined 
plane from the prairie to the bank of the river — which is generally 
from twenty to thirty feet high for several miles. The wood- 
land on the east of this prairie is an elevated tract with a rich soil. 
Springs and brooks flowing from it, are numerous. 

"This prairie is bounded on the north by Otter Creek, on which 
Major Markle is building mills." [W. P. B.] These have since 
been completed. The construction, it is said, is uncommonly 
excellent; and that the saw mills are capable of sawing 6,000 feet 
of boards in one day. 



"The soil of the prairies is excellent for both corn and wheat. 
Of the latter, the crops vary from twenty to forty bushels an 



132 Early Travels in Indiana. 

acre; and of the former, from fifty to one hundred bushels. Major 
Markle for rent alone, besides what he raised himself, has more 
than 3, 700 bushels of corn." 11 mo. 1817. 



The country will be more healthy when levees shall be raised 
across the bayous, and longitudinal ditches cut in particular places. 
The expense of forming a bank six feet high at Otter Creek, 
would not be a work of extraordinary magnitude for an individual; 
and a prairie thirteen miles in length would be exempted from 
inundation. At Honey Creek, the same remark may be made in 
respect to the construction. 

Of the practicability of such measures, we were well con- 
vinced, when we were near the Wabash; but on our return, at 
Franklinton, we saw a levee which had been raised to that height 
by the scraper, and which has completely rescued a valuable tract 
from the river floods. 

I have noted that ponds appear in places through the bayous. 
The small streams which are lost in the sands, probably after 
heavy rains supply the water; and the expense of a small canal, 
which would render the lowest parts of these tracts arable, would 
be a slight tax for the neighbouring inhabitants. Indeed the 
proprietors themselves, would be reimbursed in one or two sea- 
sons for such expenditure. 

If the bayou from Otter Creek were closed, the stream which 
sweeps through Honey Creek Prairie would be less formidable. 
Where two such currents form a junction, the narrow and winding 
channel, already dammed by the river, is insufficient to discharge 
the accumulating waters; the torrent at every creek receives an 
accession of force, and spreads the inundation still wider in its 
progress to the south. 



A Post office has lately been established at Honey Creek, two 
and a half miles south of the old ford on that stream, in Range 9 
West, Township 11 North, Section 25. — Name, Hoggatt's — M. 
Hoggatt, Post Master. 



Cant phrases, the true marks of a defective education, are 
common in the Western Country. 

A considerable number is expressed by a smart chance; and 



David Thomas. 133 

our hostess at Madison said, there was "a smart chance of yankees" 
in that village. 

Rolling is a term which may be frequently heard in conversa- 
tions relative to lands. We are not to understand by this word, 
a turning round, but a diversified surface. 

Slashes, means flat clayey land which retains water on the sur- 
face, after showers. From this comes the adjective, slashy. It 
is in common use, and, like the word chore [corruption of chare] 
in the eastern states, is almost an indispensable. 

Balance is another word which is twisted from its proper 
meaning. This is made to imply the remainder. "The balance 
(unappropriated residue of land) will be sold at auction." 



The Cane, which once overspreads a large part of Kentucky, is 
nearly destroyed; but it grows abundantly on the Wabash, and 
extends from the mouth of that river almost to Vincennes. 



The iron-weed, which I first saw above Pittsburgh, extends on 
clayey lands all the way to the Wabash. It is a pernicious plant 
in meadows. 



The wet Prairies abound with the fern-leaved Helianthus, 
and on our return, we saw thousands of these blossoms turned to 
the sun. 



N. Ewing had six kinds of exotic grapes in his garden, which 
flourish; and though receiving little attention, were finely loaded 
with fruit. That climate is congenial to the vine. Indeed we 
believe this culture will become very profitable. At Harmony, 
fifty miles below Vincennes, wa understood that twelve acres had 
already been planted as a vineyard. 



Various kinds of esculent vegetables are taken to Vincennes by 
the Shakers, nearly two weeks earlier than such can be raised in the 
wood-lands round that town. 

Six miles west of the French Licks, we saw the semblance of a 
corn-stalk, of very remote antiquity, which was found in that 
neighbourhood. It appeared that the cavity of this plant (once 



134 Early Travels in Indiana. 

occupied by the pith) was filled with sand, which became cemented 
by ferruginous matter. The impressions of the nerves were very 
distinct. It had been nearly two feet in length, and was raised out 
of the earth by the root of a falling tree. 



The district from the Knobs to the east branch of White river, 
is high table land; and apparently composed of strata, which were 
deposited on this part, after the general surface of the Ohio coun- 
try was formed. There is some reason to believe, however, that 
parts of this great bank were removed before the commencement 
of petrification. The White river flows round it on the north. 
When we ascended these heights on the east, we were in constant 
expectation, during our progress for some miles, of descending on 
the western side; so different is this tract from any we had ever 
traversed. On our return we particularly noticed the ascent and 
descent of every little ridge, and could discover no general inclina- 
tion of the surface. No plain, barren, or prairie, is found within 
its limits. 

We are assured that the Knobs do not appear south of the Ohio. 
The sides arc surprisingly irregular. On a north course from Salem 
Meeting-house, within three miles, the descent appears; but on an 
east course, the distance to the edge is computed at ten miles. 
From the latter spot, beyond the winding of that vale to the 
westward, these hills extend to the north-east till the eye is bewild- 
ered with the prospect in the distant horizon. 

In this district, petrifactions are numerous. In the channel of a 
brook I found the semblance of a perennial rooted herb, in which 
the different annual growths were exhibited. It was five inches 
long by one inch in thickness. The bark of the root appears to 
have been the mould, as the internal part was hollow, or filled with 
chrystals. The rattles of a snake, remarkably large, had also 
been converted into stone. 

The stalagmites, or dumpling stone, which was noticed in the 
Diary, appears confined to this region. We observed it near the 
border, but not on the plains below. 

From the singularity of its figure, from its cavity, and from the 
numerous petrifactions in this vicinity, I could scarcely resist the 
impression that the fruit of some species of Cueurbita had been the 
model. Other considerations, however, would be unfavourable; 



David Thomas. 135 

and it must be confessed that nature has performed many opera- 
tions in Mineralogy, which continue secrets. 
. . .In the eastern parts of Indiana, much of the grain for bread 
is ground in horse mills. I have learned that the proprietor of the 
mill finds horses; and takes for toll, one fourth of the wheat, 
and one sixth of the corn or other grain, if not bolted. The float- 
ing mills on the Ohio river, take one sixth of the wheat and one 
eighth of the corn. 
. . . Notes of a Journey from Fort Harrison to Fort Wayne. 

45 miles, a small village of the Miamis, on the waters of Eel 
river. 

25 do. the second Indian town, also on Eel river. 

50 do. to Pipe Creek. Many small creeks water this district, 
but Pipe Creek is a considerable stream, and famous for its mill 
seats. Much of these lands are low and wet. 

8 do. above Pipe Creek is the Massasinaway town of Indiana. 

It is at the junction of this river with the Wabash. 

50 do. continuing up the Wabash. 

13 do. across from the Lower Portage to Fort Wayne. Here 
are some irregular hill", and some marshes. 

191 miles, total distance. 
. . .The right pronunciation of names is as necessary as the right 
pronunciation of words; and believing that many of our untravelled 
readers would receive it favourably, we have bestowed some atten- 
tion on this subject. There have been omissions, however, which 
we will supply in this place. 

Wau-bash is the common pronunciation on that river; but 
in this country wc frequently hear the uncouth sound of Way- 
bosh. 

Vincennes is pronounced Vin-cenz by the most respectable 
persons in that place. 

Pa-ra-rah is a common pronunciation; but it is too great a 
barbarism to be tolerated. By placing the letters in this manner, 
prai-rie, the proper sounds cannot be mistaken. 

In Levee, (an embankment) the accent is sometimes placed on 
the last syllable. It should be lev-e. 



From The Western Gazetteer; or Emigrant's Directory, by 
Samuel R. Brown [1817], pp. 37-80. 

Brown, Samuel R. 

This work, like several others of a similar nature, resulted from a demand 
on the part of emigrants for a History and Guide of the western Country. It 
appeared 1817, and illustrates the ambitious efforts of a publisher to furnish 
detailed information on every section of the region lying between the Alle- 
gheny and Rocky Mountains, the Lakes and the Gulf. In the space of 
three hundred and sixty pages, the territory, water courses, routes of 
travel and climatic conditions comprised within one thousand millions 
of acres are reviewed in detail. 

The work contains fewer errors than might be expected in such a gigantic 
undertaking. An excellent map accompanies the notes. 

INDIANA. 

Is bounded west by the Wabash river, from its mouth to 40 
miles above Vincennes, and thence by a meridian line to the paral- 
lel of the south end of lake Michigan, (supposed to be in N. lat. 
41, 50.) which divides it from Illinois territory. Its northern 
limit is the above parallel, which separates it from the Michigan 
territory. A meridian line running from the mouth of the Big 
Miami, until it intersects the aforesaid parallel of the south end of 
lake Michigan, divides it from the state of Ohio, on the east. 
The Ohio river forms its sourthern boundary. Length, from 
north to south, 284 miles; breadth, from east to west, 155 miles — 
contains 39,000 square miles, or 24,960,000 acres. Its form would 
be that of a paralellogram, were the course of the Ohio due west. 

RIVERS, LAKES. 

The Ohio washes the southern border of Indiana, from the 
mouth of the Big Miami, to that of the Wabash, a distance, 
measuring its windings, of 472 miles — all the streams which inter- 
sect this extensive line of coast, are comparitively short; for the 
southern fork of White river, having its source within a few 
miles of the Ohio boundary line, runs nearly parallel with Ohio, at 
the distance of from forty to sixty miles. The principal of these 
enter the Ohio in the order named : 

Tanner's Creek — Two miles below Lawrenceburgh, thirty miles 
long; thirty yards wide at its mouth — heads in the Flat woods to 
the south of Brookville. 

Loughery's Creek — Fifty yards wide at its mouth, and forty 

(136) 



Samuel R. Brown. 137 

miles long, is the next stream worthy of mention, below the Big 
Miami, from which it is distant eleven miles. 

Indian Creek — Sometimes called Indian Kentucky, and by the 
Swiss Venoge, after a small river in the Pays de Vaud (Switzer- 
land) constitutes the southern limit of the Swiss settlement, 
eight miles below the mouth of the Kentucky river. It rises in 
the hills near the south fork of White River, 45 miles north east of 
Vevay. 

Wyandot creek, heads in the range of hills extending in a trans- 
verse direction, from near the mouth of Blue river, to the Muddy 
fork of White River, and falls into the Ohio about equidistant 
from the falls and Blue river. 

Big Blue River, heads still further north; but near the south 
fork of White river. After running fifty miles southwest, it inclines 
to the east of south, and enters the Ohio 32 miles below the mouth 
of Salt river, from the south. Its name indicates the colour of its 
water, which is of a clear blueish cast; but in quality pure and 
healthful. 

Little Blue River empties into the Ohio 13 miles below the mouth 
of Big Blue River — it i? about forty yards wide at its mouth — 
its course is from north east to south west. Ten miles below is 
Sinking creek, fifty yards -wide at its mouth. 

Anderson's river, sixty miles farther down, is the most consid- 
erable stream between Blue river and the Wabash. Below this, 
are Pegion and Beaver creeks. In addition to the preceding creeks 
and rivers, a large number of respectable creeks and runs also enter 
the Ohio, at different points between the Miami and the Wabash, 
so that that part of Indiana, lying between White river and the 
Ohio, may be pronounced well watered. It is the character of 
most of the foregoing streams, to possess a brisk current and pure 
water; the consequence is, an abundance of convenient mill 
seats, and a salubrious and healthful climate. 

The Wabash waters the central and western parts of the state. 
The main branch of this fine river, heads two miles east of old 
fort St. Mary's and intersects the portage road between Loramie 
creek and the river St. Mary's, in Darke County, Ohio. There 
are three other branches, all winding through a rich and extensive 
country. The first, called Little river, heads seven miles south of 
fort Wayne, and enters the Wabash, about eighty miles below the 
St. Mary's portage. The second is the Massasinway, which heads 
in Darke county, Ohio, about half way between forts Green- 
ville and Recovery, and unites with the others, 5 miles below 



138 Early Travels in Indiana. 

the mouth of Little river. The third is Eel river, which issues from 
several lakes and ponds, eighteen miles west of fort Wayne; it 
enters the Wabash, eight miles below the mouth of the Massissin- 
way. From the entrance of Eel river, the general course of the 
Wabash is about ten degrees south of west, to the mouth of Rejoic- 
ing river, (85 miles) where it takes a southern direction, to the 
mouth of Rocky river (forty miles) — here it inclines to the west, 
to the mouth of the Mascontin, (thirty-six miles) — where it pur- 
sues a south eastern coursa, to Vincennes, (fifty miles) — from this 
town to the Ohio, its general course is south, (one hundred miles). 
It is three hundred yards wide at its mouth, and enters the Ohio 
at right angles. Its length, from its mouth to its extreme source, 
exceeds five hundred miles. It is nevigable for keel boats, about 
four hundred miles, to Ouitanon, where there are rapids. From 
this village small boats can go to within six miles of St. Mary's 
river; ten of fort Wayne; and eight of the St. Josephs of the 
Miami-of-the-lakes. Its current is generally gentle above Vin- 
cennes — below thie town there are several rapids; but not of suffi- 
cient magnitude to prevent boats from ascending. The prin- 
cipal rapids are between Deche and White rivers, ten miles below 
Vincennes. 

The tributary waters, which enter from the left bank of the 
Wabash, and which are called rivers, are: 

1. The Petoka, from the north east, comes in twenty miles 
below Vincennes; it heads a few miles south east of the Muddy 
fork of White river, with which it runs parallel, at the distance of 
10 or 12 miles. It is about seventy-five miles in length, and 
meanders through extensive rich bottoms. 

2. White River enters four miles above the Petoka, and six- 
teen below Vincennes. This is an important river, as it reaches 
nearly across the state in a diagonal direction, Avatering a vast 
body of rich land — thirty-five miles from its mouth there is a junc- 
tion of the two principal forks — the North or Drift wood Branch, 
interlocks with the north fork of Whitewater, and with the branches 
of Stillwater, a tributary of the Big Miami. The south or Muddy 
fork heads between the brar.^hps of the west fork of Whitewater. 
The country between the two main forks of Whitcrivcr is watered 
by the Teakettle branch, which unites with the north fork, twenty 
miles above the junction of the two principal forks. 

3. Deche river, unites with the Wabash, about half way 
between Vincennes and the mouth of Whiteriver- — it comes from 



Samuel R. Brown. 139 

the north east — is a crooked, short stream, but receives several 
creeks. 

4. Little river, called by the French Le Petite Reviere, winds its 
devious course, from the north oast, among wide spreading bot- 
toms, and enters its estuary a little above Vincennes. Between 
this river and the Wabash lies an alluvion of several thousand 
acres, uniformly bottom, of exhaustlcss fertility. 

5. The St. Marie, from north oast, enters eighteen miles 
above Vincennes, and is about fifty miles long. 

6. Rocky river, sixty miles further up, comes in from the east, 
and interweaves its branches with those of the Main fork of White 
river. It is one hundred yards wide at its mouth, and has several 
large forks. 

7. Petite, or Little river, is the only river entering from the 
left, for seventy miles above Rocky river. It comes from the south 
east, and heads near the sources of Rocky river. 

8. Pomme river comes in from the south east — forty miles 
higher up, and twenty miles below the mouth of Massissinway. 
It rises near the Ohio boundary, a little to the north of the head 
branches of Whitewater. Besides the rivers above enumerated, 
which water the left bank of the Wabash, there are an immense 
number of creeks and runs, affording, in most places a sufficient 
supply of water. But there are pretty extensive districts between 
the Little and Rocky rivers, where water cannot be readily procured. 

The right or north west bank of the Wabash, receives a greater 
number of rivers than the left. Crossing this noble stream, at 
the mouth of Pomme river, and descending upon its right shore, 
the first considerable water that obstructs our progress, is 
Richard's creek, from the north west — ten miles below. Ten miles 
farther enters Rock river, from the north west — its banks are high, 
and the country around it broken. 

Eight miles farther down, is the Tippacanoe, rendered famous 
by the battle upon its banks, between the Americans and Indians, 
in Nov. 1811. This river heads about thirty miles to the West of 
fort Wayne. Several of its branches issue from lakes, swamps, and 
ponds, some of which have double outlets, running into the St, 
Josephs of the Miami-of-the-Lakes. Upon this stream, and on 
the Wabash, above and below its junction, are Indian villages, and 
extensive fields. Two Indian roads, leave these towns for the 
northern lakes — one ascends the right bank of the Wabash, to 
Ouitanan and fort Wayne; the other as sends the Tippacanoe, and 



140 Early Travels in Indiana. 

crosses the head branches of the Illinois, to the St. Joseph of lake 
Michigan. 

From the mouth of Tippecanoe, we successively pass Pine, 
and Redwood creeks; Rejoicing, or Vermillion Jaune, Little Ver- 
million, Erabliere, Duchat and Brouette rivers, at the distance of 
from ten to fifteen miles from each other, and all coming from the 
west or north west; mostly small, and having their heads in the 
Illinois territory. 

Whitewater, rises near the eastern boundary line, twelve miles 
west of fort Greenville, and nearly parallel with this line, at the 
distance of from six to ten miles, and watering in its progress, 
twenty-two townships, in Wayne, Franklin, and Dearborn coun- 
ties. At Brookville, thirty miles from its entrance into the Miami, 
it receives the West fork, which heads into the Flat woods, thirty 
miles west of that village, and interlocks with the branches of 
White river. This beautiful little river waters nearly one million 
of acres of fine land, and owes its name to the unusual transpar- 
ency of its water. A fish or a pebble can be seen at the depth of 
twenty feet. It is sufficiently cool for drinking during summer. 
The inhabitants living upon its banks, contend that its water is 
less buoyant than that of any other river; and endeavored to dis- 
suade me from bathing in it. . I nevertheless, swam several 
times across the stream, where it was one hundred yards wide; 
and, although an experienced swimmer, was not a little fatigued by 
the exercise. But I ascribed the effect to the coldness rather than 
to any extraordinary buoyancy of the water. 

One of the eastern branches of this river, heads six miles east 
of the state line, in the State of Ohio; and Greenville creek, a 
tributary of the Stillwater fork of the Big Miami, heads about the 
same distance within the state of Indiana. 

The north eastern part of the state is watered by the St. Josephs 
of the Miami-of-the-lakes, and its tributaries — this river heads 
about sixty miles to the north west of fort Wayne, and forms a 
junction with the St. Mary's, just above this post. Panther's 
creek, from the south, is its largest fork. Its remote branches 
interlock with those of the rivers Raisin, Black, St. Josephs of 
lake Michigan, and Eel river. 

That part of the state bordering on the Michigan territory, is 
liberally watered by the head branches of the river Raisin, (of 
lake Erie;) the numerous forks of Black river, (of lake Michigan;) 
and the St. Josephs of lake Michigan— the latter heads near, and 



Samuel R. Brown. 141 

interlocks with the branches of Eel river; and pursues a serpentine 
course, seventy miles, through the northern part of Indiana. 

The river Chemin, Big and Little Kennomic, all of which fall 
into Lake Michigan; the Theakaki, Kickapoo, and a part of the 
chief branch of the Illinois, all wind through the north western 
section of the state; and all, except the last, are entirely within its 
boundaries; the three first run from south to north; the latter 
south and south west. Besides, the country is chequered by num- 
erous creeks. The Vermillion of the Illinois rises in Indiana, near 
the sources of Tippacanoe. 

The northern half of the state is a country of lakes — 38 of 
which, from two to ten miles in length, are delineated on the latest 
maps; but the actual number probably exceeds one hundred — 
many of these, however, are mere ponds, lass than one mile in 
length. Some have two distinct outlets; one running into the 
northern lakes; the other into the Mississippi. 

The phenomenon of waters with double outlets, is not uncom- 
mon. The great Ganges, the greater Burrumpooter, and the great 
river of Ava, all rise and issue from the same fountain — so do the 
Rhine and the Rhone; the Suir, the Nore, and the Barrow, in 
Ireland, «pring from the same well — and after traversing a vast 
range of country, in three opposite direction^, re-unite and form 
one basin, in Waterford Harbor; there are two rivers in the 
Isthmus of Panama, whose head waters are not farther apart than 
the Ouisconsin and Fox river; one stretches into the southern 
ocean; the other into the Mexican sea. 

The greater part of these lakes, are situated between the head 
waters of the two St. Josephs, Black river, Raisin, Tippacanoe, and 
Eel rivers. 

ASPECT OF THE COUNTRY. 

A range of hills, called the knobs, extends from the falls of the 
Ohio, to the Wabash, nearly in a south western direction, which, 
in many places, produces a broken and uneven surface. North of 
these hills, lie the Flat woods, seventy miles wide and reaching 
nearly to the Ouitanan country. Bordering all the principal 
streams, except the Ohio, there are strips of bottom and prairie 
land; both together are from three to six miles in width. Between 
the Wabash and lake Michigan, the country is mostly champaign, 
abounding alternately, with wood lands, prairies, lakes, and 
swamps. 

A range of hills run parallel with the Ohio, from the mouth 



142 Early Travels in Indiana. 

of the Big Miami, to Blue river, alternately approaching to 
within a few rods, and receding to the distance of two miles, but 
broken at short intervals by numerous creeks. Immediately 
below Blue river, the hills disappear, and the horizon presents 
nothing to view but an immense tract of level land, covered with a 
heavy growth of timber. 

That part of the state lying west of the Ohio boundary line, 
north of the head branches of White river, east and south of the 
Wabash, has been described by the conductors of expeditions 
against the Indians, as a "country containing much good land; but 
intersected at the distance of four or six miles, with long, narrow 
swamps, boggy and mirey, the soil of which is a stiff blue clay." 

North of the Wabash, between Tippacanoe and Ouitanan, 
the banks of the streams are high, abrupt, and broken — and the 
land well timbered, except on the prairies. 

Between the Plein and Theakaki, the country is flat, wet, and 
swampy, interspersed with prairies of an inferior quality of soil. 

In going from the Ohio to the Wabash, say from Clark's ville 
or Madison to Vincennes, you ascend from two to three hundred 
feet before you find yourself at the top of the last bank of the 
Ohio. You have then before you a strip of country, twenty miles 
wide, tolerably level, except where gullied by the actions of 
streams. This brings you at the foot of the "Knobs" which are at 
least 500 feet higher than the land in your rear; after this you pass 
no very tedious hills, until you find yourself within three miles of 
Vincennes. In travelling from this plac^ to the Ohio, you are not 
sensible of ascending to the height at which you find yourself, on 
the summit of the "Knobs," from which you have a boundless 
prospect to the east. You can distinctly trace, with the eye, at the 
distance of twenty miles, the deep, serpentine vale of the Ohio, 
and the positions of New-Lexington, Corydon, and Louisville, in 
Kentucky. 

PRAIRIES. 

There are two kinds of these meadows — the river and upland 
prairies: the first are found upon the margins of rivers, and are 
bottoms destitute of timber; most of these exhibit vestiges of former 
cultivation. The last are plains, from thirty to one hundred feet 
higher than the alluvial bottoms; and are far more numerous 
and extensive; but are indeterminate in size and figure — since 
some are not larger than a common field, while others expand 
beyond the reach of the eye, or the limits of the horizon. They are 



Samuel R. Brown. 143 

usually bounded by groves of lofty forest trees; and not unfre- 
quently adorned with "islands," or copses of small trees, afford- 
ing an agreeable shade for man and beast. In spring and summer 
they are covered with a luxuriant growth of grass, and fragrant 
flowers, from six to eight feet high, through which it is very fati- 
guing to force one's way with any degree of celerity. The soil of 
these plains is often as deep and as fertile as the best bottoms. 
The prairies bordering the Wabash, are particularly rich — 
wells have been sunk in them, where the vegetable soil was twenty- 
two feet deep, under which was a stratum of fine white sand, con- 
taining horizontal lines, plainly indicating to the geologist, the 
gradual subsidence of water. Yet the ordinary depth is from two 
to five feet. 

The several expeditions against the Indians, during the 
late war, enabled many of our officers, to become extensively 
acquainted with the geography of the Indiana and Michigan 
territories. 

An officer, who conducted several expeditions against the 
Indians, and who was at the Putawatomie villages, on the St. 
Joseph's of lake Michigan, writes to me as follows: 

"The country [between fort Wayne and the St. Joseph's of 
lake Michigan] in every direction, is beautiful, presenting a fine 
prospect. There are no hills to be seen; a champaign country, 
the greater part prairie, affording inexhaustible grazing, and pre- 
senting the most delightful natural meadows, and the grass cured 
would be almost equal to our hay; there are also, vast forests of 
valuable timber, and the soil exceedingly rich. The rivers have 
their sources in swamps, and sometimes form delightful inland 
lakes. It is not unfrequent to see two opposite streams supplied 
by the same water or lake, one running into the waters of the 
Mississippi, and the other into the northern lakes. Neither China 
nor Holland ever had such natural advantages for inland water 
communications." 

Another officer, who had opportunities of seeing and exploring 
the country between the Wabash and lake Michigan, describes it 
as a country, "admirably calculated for the convenience of inland 
navigation. The sources of the rivers are invariably in swamps or 
lakes, and the country around them perfectly level. A trifling 
expence would open a navigable communication between Eel 
river, and a branch of the Little St. Joseph's; the two St. Joseph's; 
the Raisin of lake Erie, and the Lenoir (Black river) of lake Mich- 
igan. Small lakes are discovered in every part of this extensive 



144 Early Travels in Indiana. 

and romantic country. We found them covered with ducks, and 
other water fowls. For the diversion of fishing, we had no leisure; 
consequently, I am not able to inform you whether they abound 
with fish, but presume they do, as many of their outlets empty 
into the tributaries of the great lakes. 

"The country around the head branches of Eel river, 
Panther's creek, and St. Joseph's, (of the Miami) 1 is generally low 
and swampy ; and too wet for cultivation. But even in that quarter 
there are many beautiful situations. The timber is oak, hickory, 
black walnut, beach, sugar maple, elm, and honey locust. The 
wood lands line the water courses; but branch out frequently into 
the prairies. 

"The immense prairies on the south bank of the St. Josephs, 
(of lake Michigan) afforded us many rich, beautiful, and pic- 
turesque views. They are from one to ten miles wide; and of 
unequal lengths. They are as level as lakes; and in point of fer- 
tility, not inferior to the lands around Lexington, Ken. or the 
best bottoms of the Ohio. 

We crossed two, whose southern limits were not descernable 
to the naked eye; they were doubtless capacious enough to form 
two or three townships each ; and perfectly dry, being at least one 
hundred feet above the river bottoms. These natural meadows are 
covered with a tall grass; and are separated by strips of woods, 
containing oak, maple, locust, lyn, poplar, plum, ash, and crab- 
apple. In these wood lands, we generally meet with creeks, runs 
or springs; but never in the open prairies, unless in wet and rainy 
seasons, when the waters form temporary sluggish brooks, where- 
ever there is sufficient descent for the purpose. 

"The St. Josephs [of lake Michigan] is a charming river, and 
navigable to within a short distance of the river of the same 
name. Its current is brisk, and at the upper villages, one hundred 
yards wide. The Indians have cleared large fields upon its banks: 
several Canadian French families reside with them. Their man- 
ners and habits of life are semi-savage. 

"All the rivers in the interior of Indiana and Michigan, have 
spacious bottoms, and they uniformly wander from the line 
of their courses, so that in making fifty miles progress, in a direct 
line, they water one hundred miles of territory by their sinuosi- 
ties. By these frequent bends, the length of river coast, and the 



1. Maumee. 



Samuel R. Brown. 145 

quantity of bottom land is nearly doubled, which amply compen- 
sates for extra toil and expence of navigation." 

Mr. D. Buck, of Auburn, (N. Y.) who assisted in the survey of 
twenty-two townships, six miles square each, writes to his corre- 
spondent as follows: 

I have seen a great deal of excellent land; the prairies on the 
Wabash in the vicinity of fort Harrison, exceed every thing for 
richness of soil and beauty of situation, I ever beheld. The 
prairies are from one to five miles wide, bordering on the river, and 
from one to twelve in length; the streams which run into the 
Wabash, divide one prairie from another; on these streams are 
strips of woods from half a mile to a mile wide, the timber of 
which is excellent; the soil of the prairies is a black vegetable 
mould, intermixed with fine sand, and sometimes gravel. In 
choosing a situation for a farm, it is important so to locate a 
tract, as to have half prairie and half wood land ; by which means 
you will have a plantation cleared to your hand. 

The new purchase contains one hundred and twenty townships, 
or 2,765,040, acres. The lands sell very high in the neighbor- 
hood of Fort Harrison, for it is the most delightful situation for a 
town on the Wabash — the soil is the richest of any in the state. 
This will undoubtedly become the seat of a new county, and that 
at no remote period. The fort is garrisoned by one hundred and 
fifty riflemen, of the regular army, under the command of Major 
Morgan. There are six families living in log cabins, near the fort, 
who improve congress lands. They have been here five years. 
Wherever they have cultivated the ground, it produces abun- 
dantly. Besides these, there are several Indian traders — Great 
numbers of Indians resort hither to sell their peltries. The tribes 
who frequent this place and reside on the Wabash, are the Kick- 
apoos, Miamis, Putawatomies, Shawancese, Weaws, and Del- 
awares. They encamp in the woods convenient to water, where 
they build wigwams. We came across a great many while survey- 
ing in the wilderness — they appeared friendly, and offered us 
honey and venison. Our business has principally been near the 
Indian boundary line, sixty miles from any white settlements. 
The woods abound with deer, bears, wolves, and wild turkies. 
About three-eighths of the land we surveyed is excellent for most 
kinds of produce; the remainder is good for grazing, but too hilly, 
flat, or wet, for grain. 

The lands on White river are well watered with springs and 
brooks. You can hardly find a quarter section without water; 

T— 10 



146 Early Travels in Indiana. 

the country in this quarter is, in many places, hilly and broken, 
and in some parts stony. Limestone is most predominant; but 
there are quarries of free stone. Although the country is well 
watered, good mill seats are scarce. There can be a sufficiency 
of small mills for the accommodation of the inhabitants. Steam 
mills, without doubt, will be in operation as soon as the country 
is sufficiently settled for the purpose of flouring for exportation. 

"There are some excellent tracts of land in Indiana and Ill- 
inois^ — corn is raised pretty easy; and stock with little attention, 
and in some places with little or no fodder. This country is full 
of prairies; some of which are excellent land. The timber around 
them consists principally oak, of which the inhabitants make 
most of their rails, and sometimes draw them three miles. These 
prairies are destitute of water; but it can be obtained by digging 
twenty or thirty feet. Wheat grows stout; but the grain is not so 
plump as it is in the state of New York." 

"It is difficult building in Knox county, and always will be, on 
account of the scarcity of mill seats. Horse mills are common; 
the miller takes one eighth part of the grain for toll; customers find- 
ing their own horses." 

He further states, that the two branches of Whiteriver are 
navigable with boats in high water for the distance of 130 miles; 
that coal mines are numerous near the Wabash. Iron ore is found 
on Whiteriver. That wheat yields the inhabitants, who are neat 
farmers, 68 lbs. a bushel, and never gets winter-killed or smutty; 
the only difficulty they experience in its culture is, that the land 
in many places is too rich until it has been improved. Apple 
trees bear every year. Peaches some years do exceedingly well; 
so do cherries, currents, and most kinds of fruit. Wheat is 75 
cents a bushel; flour $3 a hundred — delivered at Fort Harrison 
four; corn 25 cents a bushel — pork $4 — beef $4; butter and cheese 
from 12| to 25 cents; honey 50 cents per gallon. Maple sugar 
25 cents. European goods exorbitantly high. 

Reptiles and venomous serpents are not numerous. A few 
rattle snakes and some copperheads comprise all that are danger- 
ous. 

The banks of the Wabash are in many places, subject to be 
overflowed in high water. When the Ohio is at full height its 
waters set back and inundate the bottoms of the Wabash to the 
distance of four or five miles. 

Mr. Buck, who descended this river in March, 1816, says, "I 
came down the river at the highest stage of water; the banks were 



Samuel R. Brown. 147 

completely overflowed almost all the way. The prairies extend- 
ing to the river appeared like small seas; and in many places, it 
was with difficulty that we could keep our boat from running into 
the woods. The distance from Fort Harrison to Vincennes by 
water, is 120 miles; by land only 65. Below the fort the river is 
very crooked to its mouth; above, as far as the Indian title is 
extinguished, it is quite strait in a north and south direction. 
The breadth of the river (at Vincennes) is from 40 to 70 rods. It 
overflows its banks every spring, except at a few places where 
there are handsome situations for towns. It inundates a consider- 
able extent of country opposite Vincennes. The floods do not last 
long ; nor are they dangerous, if people will use a little precaution 
in removing their stock and swine. 

"The winters are mild, compared with those of the northern 
states. By all accounts, last winter was uncommonly severe for 
this country. There were three or four weeks of freezing weather, 
during which the snow was from six to nine inches deep. The 
Wabash was frozen over so that it was crossed in many places 
upon the ice with safety. I think that autumnal frosts are earlier 
here than in the western counties of New York; but the weather is 
very fine till Christmas; then changeable until about the middle 
of February, when winter >reaks up, and spring soon commences. 
Peaches are in blossom by the first of March, and by the 10th of 
April, the forests are "clad in green." The flowering shrubs and 
trees are in full bloom some days before the leaves get their 
growth, which gives the woods a very beautiful appearance." 

"Salt, at and above Vincennes is two dollars a bushel, though 
considerable quantities are made at the U. S. Saline 30 miles below 
the mouth of the Wabash, in the Illinois territory, where it is sold 
for one dollar a bushel. The chief supply comes from the salt 
wor s on the Great Kenhaway. — There have been salt wells sunk, 
(by boring) near the Ohio, to the depth of 500 feet, where the water 
is said to be very strong. There are likewise salt springs on the 
Indian lands, not far from the northern boundary of the new 
purchase." 

POPULATION, COUNTIES, VILLAGES. 

Population of Indiana in November, 1815. 

Counties. No. of Inhabitants. 

Wayne 6,290 

Franklin 7,970 

Dearborn 4,426 

Jefferson 4,093 



148 Early Travels in Indiana. 

Counties. No. of Inhabitants. 

Washington 6 , 606 

Harrison 6 , 769 

Gibson 5,330 

Knox 6,800 

Switzerland 3 , 500 

Clark 7,000 

Posey 3,000 

Perry 3,000 

Warwick 3,000 

Total 68,784 

DEARBORN COUNTY, 

Is bounded east by the state of Ohio, south by the Ohio river, 
west by Switzerland county, and north by Franklin county. It is 
well watered by Tanner's Hougelane's and Loughery's creeks, 
Whitewater and the head branches of Indian Kentucky. The 
south part of this county is broken; the north end level, being in 
the Flat Woods. The Ohio bottoms are low but fertile. The 
timber in the middle and northern parts is oak, hickory, poplar, 
and sugar maple. 

Lawrenceburgh — Stands on the bank of the Ohio, two miles 
below the mouth of the Big Miami. It has not nourished for sev- 
eral years past, owing, principally to its being subject to inunda- 
tion, when the Ohio is high. A new town called Edinburgh, half 
a mile from the river, on a more elevated situation promises to 
eclypse it. 

Rising Sun — Is delightfully situated on the second bank of the 
Ohio, with a gradual descent to the river. It contains thirty or 
forty houses, and is half way between Vevay and Lawrenceburgh. 
It has a post office, and a floating mill anchored abreast of the 
town. It has had a very rapid growth, and will probably become a 
place of considerable trade. 

FRANKLIN, 

Has the state of Ohio on the east, Dearborn county south and 
Indian lands west and north. It is one of the best counties in the 
state, and was established about four years ago. It is principally 
watered by Whitewater and its branches, upon which there is 
some of the best bottom lands in the western country and has been 
the centre of an ancient population, as is proved by the great 
number of mounds and fortifications, to be seen on the bottoms 



Samuel R. Brown. 149 

and hills. There are no prairies in this county. Both sides of 
Whitewater, from its mouth, to Brookville, are tolerably well 
settled. Here are some of the finest farms to be met with in the 
western country. A number of mills have been erected. The 
upland is pretty level, and the principal timber white oak, hickory 
and black walnut. The oak trees are remarkably tall and hand- 
some; and well suited either for rails, staves, or square timber. The 
soil is free from stones, and easily cleared and ploughed ; producing 
fine crops of wheat and corn. In July last, I saw several corn- 
fields, which in the preceding March, were in a state of nature 
with the trees and brushwood all growing. 

Yet the corn looked as flourishing as it did upon the bottoms. 
In the woods, on the bottoms of Whitewater, I discovered several 
natural wells, formed in a most singular manner. They were from 
ten to fifteen feet deep, substantially curbed, being nothing more 
nor less than parts of the upright trunks of the largest sycamores, 
which has been hollowed out by the hand of time. To explain: 
When these trees were in their infancy, their roots spread near the 
surface of the ground ; but in the course of time, successive inun- 
dations and the annual decay of a luxuriant vegetation, have 
formed a stratum of the richest soil, from ten to fifteen feet deep, 
over the roots of these venerable trees. At length these vegetable 
Mathusalems die, and are prostrated by the winds of heaven, 
and where once stood a tree of giant growth, now yawns a well 
scooped out by nature's hand. 

Genseng grows in the bottoms to a perfection and size, I never 
before witnessed; and so thick, where the hogs have not thinned 
it, that one could dig a bushel in a very short time. Upon the 
spurs of the hills, and the poorest soil, is found the wild columbo 
root, and is easily procured in any quantity. There are two vill- 
ages in this county — Brookville and Harrison. 

Brookville — Is pleasantly situated in the forks of Whitewater, 
thirty miles north of Lawrenceburgh and the Ohio river; twenty 
miles south of Salisbury 2 — about forty-two north west of Cin- 
cinnati, and twenty-five from Hamilton, "It was laid out in the 
year 1811; but no improvements were made until the succeeding 
year, and then but partially; owing to the unsettled state of the 
frontiers, and its vicinity to the Indian boundary/being not more 
than fifteen miles. The late war completely checked the emigra- 
tion to the country, and consequently the town ceased to improve. 



2. The county seat of Wayne county at that time. 



150 Early Travels in Indiana. 

At the close of the war, there was not more than ten or twelve 
dwelling houses in the place; but since that period, its rapid acces- 
sion of wealth and population has been unexampled in the west- 
ern country. 

"There are now in the town upwards of eighty buildings, exclu- 
sive of shops, stables, and out houses, the greater number of which 
were built during the last season. The buildings are generally 
frame, and a great part of them handsomely painted. There are 
within the precints of the town, one grist mill and two saw mills, 
two fulling mills, three carding machines, one printing office',* 
one silversmith, two saddlers, two cabinet makers, one hatter, 
two taylors, four boot and shoemakers, two tanners and cur- 
riers, one chairmaker, one cooper, five taverns and seven stores. 
There are also a jail, a market house, and a handsome brick court 
house nearly finished. 

"The ground on which the town stands, is composed of a rich 
and sandy loam, covering a thin stratum of clay, underneath 
which is a great body of gravel and pebbles — consequently the 
streets are but seldom muddy, and continue so but for a short 
time. The public square and a great part of the town stands 
on a beautiful level, that is elevated between eighty feet above 
the level of the river: and, in short, the situation of the town, the 
cleanlines of the streets, the purity of the waters, and the aspect 
of the country around, all combine to render it one of the most 
healthy and agreeable situations in the western country. 

"There are, perhaps, few places that possess equal advantages, 
or that present a more flattering prospect of future wealth and 
importance than this. As a situation for manufactories, it is 
unequalled; the two branches of Whitewater affording a con- 
tinued succession of the best sites for the erection of water works, 
from their junction almost to their sources, and many valuable 
situations may be found below the town, on the main river. 

"The country watered by this stream is inferior to none. Along 
the river and all its tributary streams, are extensive and fertile 
bottoms, bounded by hills of various heights; and immediately 
from the top of these, commences a level and rich country, tim- 
bered with poplar, walnut, beech, sugar tree, oak, ash, hickory, 
elm, buckeye, &c. and a variety of shrubs and underbrush. The 

*At this press is published a respectable and well conducted weekly Journal, en- 
titled "T/ie Plain Dealer," edited by B. F. Morris, Esq. to whose pen and the polite- 
ness of N. D. Gallion, Post Master, I am indebted for the above interesting and 
correct account of Brookville, and which I have preferred to my own. 



Samuel R. Brown. 151 

soil of this land is peculiarly adapted to the culture of small grain, 
and for grazing. The last harvest produced several crops of wheat, 
in the neighborhood of this place that weighed from sixty-five to 
sixty-eight pounds per bushel; and the best crops of grass I have 
ever seen, are produced without the aid of manure. Corn, oats, 
rye, flax, hemp, sweet and Irish potatoes, &c. &c. are produced in 
abundance. 

"During the last season, 1816, many successful experiments 
were made in rearing tobacco, and the soil has been pronounced 
by good judges, to be as congenial to its growth, as the best lands 
in the state of Virginia, Kentucky, or the Carolinas. As an evi- 
dence of the fertility of the country, corn and oats are selling at 
twenty-five, rye at forty, and wheat at seventy-five cents per 
bushel, beef at three and a half, and pork at four cents per pound. 
The country is well supplied with good water, from a great num- 
ber of springs, and water may also be obtained in almost any place 
by digging to a moderate depth. 

"Another source from which this town must eventually derive 
great importance, is the ease and small expence with which the 
navigation of Whitewater, from the junction of the forks, can be 
so far improved as to carry out into the Ohio, all articles that may 
be raised for exportation. 

"To the north and north west of this place, is an extensive and 
fertile country, that is fast growing into importance; and in wealth 
and population, will soon be inferior to but few districts on the 
waters of the Ohio; and, owing to the geographical situation of the 
country, all the intercourse of the inhabitants with the Ohio 
river, must be through this place." 

I was at Brookville in July last, on business, and was highly 
pleased with the amenity of its situation, and the industry, intelli- 
gence, and healthful appearance of the inhabitants.— The road 
from thence to Harrison, was very fine. 

Harrison. — This village is situated on the north side of White- 
water, eight miles from its mouth, eighteen north east [south-east] 
of Brookville, and in the centre of a large tract of some of the 
best land in the state. More than one half of the village stands 
on the Ohio side of the state line. There are about thirty-five 
houses, mostly new. A considerable number of the inhabitants 
are from the state of New York. Mr. Looker, from Saratoga 
county, Mr. Crane, from Schenectady, and Mr. Allen, the post 
master, from New Jersey, own the surrounding lands. They 
have all very fine and valuable farms, worth from forty to sixty 



152 Early Travels in Indiana. 

dollars an acre. The settlement was commenced about sixteen 
years ago. The bottoms are here from one to two miles 
wide; the soil remarkably deep and rich, and the woods free 
from brushwood. The trees are of a moderate growth, but 
straight and thrifty. The traces of ancient population cover 
the earth in every direction. On the bottoms are a great 
number of mounds, very unequal in point of age and size. 
The small ones are from two to four feet above the surface, 
and the growth of timber upon them small, not being over 
one hundred years old; while the others are from ten to thirty 
feet high, and frequently contain trees of the largest diam- 
eters. Besides, the bones found in the small ones will bear 
removal, and exposure to the air, while those in the large ones are 
rarely capable of sustaining their own weight; and are often found 
in a decomposed or powdered state. There is a large mound in 
Mr. Allen's field, about twenty feet high, sixty feet in diameter at 
the base, which contains a greater proportion of bones, than any 
one I ever before examined, as almost every shovel full of dirt 
would contain several fragments of a human skeleton. When on 
Whitewater, I obtained the assistance of several of the inhab- 
itants, for the purpose of making a thorough examination of the 
internal structure of these monuments of the ancient populous- 
ness of the country. We examined from fifteen to twenty. In 
some, whose height were from ten to fifteen feet, we could not find 
more than four or five skeletons. In one, not the least appear- 
ance of a human bone was to be found. Others were so full of 
bones, as to warrent the belief, that they originally contained at 
least one hundred dead bodies; children of different ages, and the 
full grown, appeared to have been piled together promiscuously. 
We found several scull, leg and thigh bones, which plainly indi- 
cated, that their possessors were men of gigantic stature. The 
scull of one skeleton was one fourth of an inch thick; and the teeth 
remarkably even, sound and handsome, all firmly planted. The 
fore teeth were very deep, and not so wide as those of the gen- 
erality of white people. Indeed, there seemed a great degree of 
regularity in the form of the teeth, in all the mounds. In the 
progress of our researches, we obtained ample testimony, that 
these masses of earth were formed by a savage people. Yet, doubt- 
less possessing a greater degree of civilization than the present 
race of Indians. We discovered a piece of glass weighing five 
ounces, resembling the bottom of a tumbler, but concave; sev- 
eral stone axes, with grooves near their heads to receive a withe, 
which unquestionably served as helves; arrows formed from flint, 



Samuel R. Brown. 153 

almost exactly similar to those in use among the present Indians; 
several pieces of earthen ware; some appeared to be parts of ves- 
sels holding six or eight gallons; others were obviously fragments 
of jugs jars, and cups; some were plain, while others were curiously 
ornamented with figures of birds and beasts, drawn while the clay 
or material of which they were made was soft and before the pro- 
cess of glazing was performed. The glazier's art appears to have 
been well understood by the potters who manufactured this 
aboriginal crockery. The smaller vessels were made of pounded or 
pulverized muscle shells, mixed with an earthen or flinty sub- 
stance, and the large ones of clay and sand. There was no appear- 
ance of iron; one of the sculls was found pierced by an arrow, 
which was still sticking in it, driven about half way through before 
its force was spent. It was about six inches long. The subjects 
of this mound were doubtless, killed in battle, and hastily buried. 
In digging to the bottom of them we invariably came to a stratum 
of ashes, from six inches to two feet thick, which rests on the 
original earth. These ashes contain coals, fragments of brands, 
and pieces of calcined bones. From the quantity of ashes and bones, 
and the appearance of the earth underneath, it is evident that large 
fires must have been kept burning for several days previous to 
commencing the mound, and that a considerable number of human 
victims must have been sacrificed, by burning, on the spot! Prison- 
ers of war were no doubt selected for this horrid purpose. Perhaps 
the custom of the age rendered it a signal honor, for the chief- 
tains and most active worriors to be interred, by way of triumph, 
on the ashes of their enemies, whom they had vanquished in war. 
If this was not the case, the mystery can only be solved by sup- 
posing that the fanaticism of the priests and prophets excited their 
besotted followers to voluntary self-devotion. The soil of the 
mounds is always different from that of the immediately surround- 
ing earth being uniformly of a soft vegetable mould or loam, 
and containing no stones or other hard substances, to "press upon 
the dead and disturb their repose." 

Almost every building lot in Harrison village contains a small 
mound; and some as many as three. On the neighboring hills, 
north east of the town, are a number of the remains of stone houses. 
They were covered with soil, brush, and full grown trees. We 
cleared away the earth, roots and rubbish from one of them, 
and found it to have been anciently occupied as a dwelling. It 
was about twelve feet square; the walls had fallen nearly to the 
foundation. They appeared to have been built of rough stones, 



154 Early Travels in Indiana. 

like our stone walls. Not the least trace of any iron tools having 
been employed to smooth the face of them, could be perceived. 
At one end of the building, we came to a regular hearth, contain- 
ing ashes and coals; before which we found the bones of eight 
persons of different ages, from a small child to the heads of the 
family. The positions of their skeletons clearly indicated, that 
their deaths were sudden and simultaneous. They were prob- 
ably asleep, with their feet towards the fire, when destroyed by an 
enemy, an earthquake, or pestilence. 

WAYNE. 

This county is bounded on the east by the state of Ohio, on the 
south by the county of Franklin, on the west and north by Indian 
lands. It is watered by the north fork of White-water, the head 
brooks of the north fork of Whiteriver, sources of Rocky river, 
Massissinway, and main branch of the Wabash. It is very exten- 
sive, of a level surface, well timbered, contains fine lands, and has 
been settled ten years. Its products are, Indian corn, wheat, 
rye, oats, and tobacco. 

Salisbury. — Lies thirty miles north of Brookville; contains 
about thirty five houses, two stores and two taverns. It is at 
present the seat of justice for Wayne county; but Centerville, a 
new village, being more central, threatens to become its competitor 
for that privilege. 

SWITZERLAND, 

Is bounded west by Jefferson, south by the Ohio river, north in 
part by Indian lands, and east by Dearborn county. Its surface is, 
in some places, broken by the Ohio and Silver creek hills, which, 
however, are of a pretty good soil. It is watered by Venoge and 
Plum creeks, and several small runs; some running into the Ohio, 
and others into Whiteriver. 

New Switzerland. — The settlement of New Switzerland was 
commenced by a few emigrants, from the Pays de Vaud, in the 
spring of 1805. It extends from about three quarters of a mile 
above the mouth of Plum creek, down the river to the mouth of 
Indian creek, now called Venoge; a distance of about four 
miles and a half, fronting the river, and originally extended back 
far enough to cover 3,700 acres of land; about half of which was 
purchased under a law in favor of J. J. Dufour, and his associates, 
upon a credit of twelve years. Subsequent purchases have been 
made on the usual terms, excepting an extension of credit, in order 



Samuel R. Brown. 155 

to encourage the cultivation of the vine. There has been a gradual 
accession of numbers to this interesting colony. As early as 1810, 
they had eight acres of vineyard, from which they made 2,400 
gallons of wine, which, in its crude state, was thought by good 
judges, to be superior to the claret of Bordeaux. A part of this 
wine was made out of the Madeira grape. They have now greatly 
augmented the quantity of their vineyard grounds, which, when 
bearing, present to the eye of the observer the most interesting 
agricultural prospect, perhaps, ever witnessed in the United States. 
The principal proprietors of the vineyards, are the Messrs. Du- 
fours, Bettens, Morerod, Siebenthal. Mr. J. J. Dufour arrived 
from Switzerland in September last, with a large number of emi- 
grants. The Swiss speak the French language in its purity; and 
are a temperate, industrious and polished people, fond of music 
and dancing, and warmly attached to the United States. 
They are rapidly extending their vineyards; they also 
cultivate Indian corn, wheat, potatoes, hemp, flax, and other 
articles necessary to farmers — but in quantities barely sufficient 
for domestic use. Some of their women manufacture straw hats. 
They are made quite different from the common straw bonnets, 
by tying the straws together, instead of plaiting and sewing the 
plaits. They are sold in great numbers in the neighboring settle- 
ments, and in the Mississippi and Indiana territories. 

Vevay. — Half a mile above the upper vineyards, was laid out in 
1813, but was a forest in 1814, till the first of February, when the 
first house was built. 

During the same year forty four others, four stores, and two 
taverns were erected, and the village selected as a suitable place 
for the seat of justice for Switzerland county. There are at 
present eighty-four dwelling houses, besides thirty four mechanics' 
shops, of different professions. The court house, jail, and school 
house are of brick. A brick market house and church are build- 
ing. It has eight stores, three taverns, two lawyers, two physi- 
cians, and a printing office printing a weekly newspaper, called 
the Indiana. Register. There is a library of 300 volumes; and a 
literary society in which are several persons of genius, science, and 
literature. 

This delightful village is situated on the second bank of the 
Ohio, twenty-five feet above high water mark, and is nearly equi- 
distant from Cincinnati, Lexington, and Louisville, or forty 
five miles from each. The view of the Ohio is extensive, being 
eight miles. The country in the rear is broken but fertile. The 



156 Early Travels in Indiana. 

climate is mild, and the sweet potatoe is cultivated with success. 
Cotton would doubtless do well. There are several roads which 
diverge from the settlement. Three mails arrive weekly. 

JEFFERSON, 

Is bounded on the east by Switzerland county, on the south by 
the river Ohio, on the west by the county of Clark, on the north by 
Indian lands. It contains a great proportion of excellent land. 
It is watered by several small creeks running in >o the Ohio, and 
by the Mescatitak, a branch of the south fork of Whiteriver, which 
heads within five miles of the Ohio river. 

New Lexington. — This flourishing town is famous for having 
produced the pretended monied institution, called "The Lexing- 
ton Indiana Manufacturing Company," which has exploded. It 
is situated in a rich settlement, sixteen miles nearly west of Madi- 
son, and five miles east of the Knobs; and contains about forty 
houses, some of them handsome, brick and frame, and others 
built with hewn logs, in the true western style. There is a post- 
office, and printing establishment, in which is printed the "West- 
ern Eagle." The surface of the surrounding country is for several 
miles, sufficiently rolling to give the water of the creeks and runs a 
brisk motion. The stones towards the Ohio are calcareous: 
to the west and north west, clayey slate. The soil is very produc- 
tive. In the vicinity of this place, the enterprising General 
M'Farland has, with astonishing preseverance, dug to the depth 
of nearly five hundred feet, in quest of salt water. His exertions 
have been crowned with success, inasmuch as the water exceeds 
in strength any salt water in the western country, and affords 
from three to four bushels of salt, to the hundred gallons of 
water. 

Madison.—- This is the seat of justice for the county, and is 
situated on the upper bank of the Ohio, thirty miles below Vevay, 
contains sixty or seventy houses, mostly small and new. The 
banking institution, called the "Farmers' and Mechanics' Bank," 
is established here. 

CLARK, 

Is bounded east by Jefferson county, south by the Ohio river, 
west by the counties of Harrison and Washington, north by the 
county of Jackson and Indian lands. It is watered by several 
creeks running into the Ohio, such as Silver creek, Cane run, &c. 
and several brooks falling into the Mescatitak branch of the 



Samuel R. Brown. 157 

south fork of Whiteriver. Its surface is considerably broken in 
the central parts of the county. Hickory and oak are the prevail- 
ing timber. It is thought that this country contains many valu- 
able minerals; some have been discovered; copperas is found in the 
high banks of Silver creek, about two miles from its mouth. A 
medicinal spring, near Jeffersonville, has been much frequented — 
its waters are strongly impregnated with sulphur and iron. The 
reed cane grows on the flats. 

Charleston — The seat of justice for Clark county, is situated in 
the centre of a rich and thriving settlement, thirty-two miles south 
of west from Madison, two miles from the Ohio river, and fourteen 
from the falls. This village, like many others in the western coun- 
try, has sprung up suddenly by the magical influence of American 
enterprize, excited into action by a concurrence of favorable cir- 
cumstances. 

Jeffersonville — Stands on the bank of the Ohio, nearly opposite 
Louisville, and a little above the falls. It contains about one hun- 
dred and thirty houses, brick, frame and hewn logs. The bank of 
the river is high, which affords a fine view of Louisville, the falls, 
and the opposite hills. Just below the town is a fine eddy for boats. 
A post-office, and a land-office, for the sale of the United States' 
lands, are established, and it promises to become a place of wealth, 
elegance and extensive business. The most eligible boat channel 
is on the Indiana side of the Ohio. 

Clarksville — Lies at the lower end of the falls; and, although 
commenced as early as 1783, does not contain above 'forty houses, 
most of them old and decayed. It has a safe capacious harbor for 
boats. 

New Albany — A short distance below Clarksville, has been 
puffed throughout the Union ; but has not yet realized the antici- 
pations of the proprietors. 



HARRISON, 

Is bounded east by Clark county, south by the Ohio, west by 
the new county of Perry, and north by Washington. Its principal 
stream is Blue river, which is navigable for boats about forty 
miles. Gen. Harrison owns a large tract of land upon this river, 
and has erected a grist and saw mill, about eight miles from its 
mouth, on a durable spring brook, running into it. On both banks 
of this river are large quantities of oak and locust timber. Gen. 
H. had it in contemplation, shortly before the commencement of 



158 Early Travels in Indiana. 

the late war, to establish a ship yard at its mouth, where there is a 
convenient situation for building and launching vessels. 

Cory don — The seat of justice for Harrison county, is situated 
twenty-five miles nearly west from Jeffersonville, and ten miles 
from the Ohio river. It was commenced in 1809, and is the seat of 
government for the state. The selection of this place by the legis- 
lature, as the seat of government for the period of eight years, has 
excited great dissatisfaction in other parts of the state. It has 
rapidly encreased since the meeting of the state convention, in 
July, 1816. The Indiana Gazette is printed in this village. 

WASHINGTON 

County is bounded on the east by Clark county, on the south 
by the county of Harrison, on the west by the county of Orange, 
and on the north by the county of Jackson. It is watered by the 
south fork of Whiteriver — is moderately hilly, and was established 
in 1814. 

Salem — Is the only village deserving notice; and is situated 
thirty-four miles north of Corydon, and twenty-five nearly west 
from Jeffersonville, on the Vincennes road. 



Lies west of Clark and Jefferson counties, north of Washing- 
ton, east of Orange, and south of the Indian country. It is watered 
by Whiteriver and its tributary creeks, and was set off in 1815. 
Brownstown is the seat of justice; and is situated twenty-five miles 
east of north from Salem. 



County is bounded by the counties of Washington and Jack- 
son on the east; by Harrison and Perry on the south; by the county 
of Knox on the west; and by Indian lands on the north. It has a 
rich soil, and is well watered by Whiteriver and Petoka. A gen- 
tleman, who surveyed several townships in the county, declares it 
to be equal in point of fertility of soil, and excellence of water, to 
any county in the state. "The surface is agreeably undulating. 
The timber on the hills consist of black walnut, oak, hickory, ash, 
sugar maple; on the low grounds, basswood, pawpaw, honey locust, 
buckeye and spicewood; besides, grape vines, and a variety of 
shrubs. We occasionally met with rattlesnakes and copperheads 
on the uplands, but never in the bottoms. The most common 



Samuel R. Brown. 159 

game are deer and bear. There is a coal-mine a little below the 
forks of Whiteriver; besides, we met with frequent signs of min- 
erals; and the needle often refused to settle. The bottoms of 
Whiteriver are nearly as wide as those of the Wabash, and con- 
tain evidence of having been formerly inhabited by Indians, as the 
remains of their cabins and corn-hills are yet visible. The new 
village of Paoli is the county seat. It is forty miles nearly east of 
Vincennes; and thirty north of west from Salem." 



This county is bounded by Orange on the east; by the county 
of Gibson on the south; by the Wabash river on the west; and by 
Indian lands on the north. This is the oldest and most populous 
county in the state. It is watered by the Deche, Whiteriver, 
Wabash, Littleriver, St. Marie, Busseron, Raccoon and Ambush 
creeks. It has upwards of 200,000 acres of the best prairie and 
bottom land, and is rapidly encreasing in inhabitants and 
improvements. 

Vincennes. — The seat of justice for Knox county, stands on the 
east bank of the Wabash, one hundred miles from its junction with 
the Ohio, in a direct line, but nearly two hundred by the courses of 
the river; and one hundred and twenty west of the falls of Ohio. 
It contains about one hundred houses, most of which are small 
and scattering; some have a neat and handsome aspect, while 
others are built in an uncouth manner, having a frame skeleton 
filled up with mud and stick walls, similar to some of the old Ger- 
man houses on the Hudson and Mohawk rivers. The best build- 
ings are a brick tavern, jail, and academy. The latter, which is an 
honor to the state, stands in the public square, and is under the 
direction of the Rev. Mr. Scott, a presbyterian minister, a gen- 
tleman of letters; yet, hitherto, his pupils have not been numer- 
ous. He teaches the ancient languages, mathematics, &c. The 
meeting house, a plain building, stands on the prairie, one mile 
from the town. The plan of the town is handsomely designed; the 
streets are wide and cross each other at right angles. Almost every 
house has a garden in its rear, with high, substantial picket fences 
to prevent the thefts of the Indians. General Harrison is one of the 
principal proprietors of the soil. The common field near the town 
contains nearly 5,000 acres, of excellent prairie soil, which has 
been cultivated for more than half a century, and yet retains its 
pristine fertility. The United States have a land office for the dis- 



160 Early Travels in Indiana. 

posal of the public lands; and formerly kept a small garrison, in a 
little stockade near the bank of the river, for the protection of the 
inhabitants. The Governor of the territory resided, and the terri- 
torial legislature convened here. The place has possessed many 
political advantages. "The bank of Vincennes" enjoys a good 
character, and its paper has already attained an extensive cir- 
culation. It has recently become a state bank. There is also a 
printing office, which issues a paper, called the "Western Sun", 
edited by Mr. E. Stout. This village was settled nearly one hun- 
dred years ago, by the French, who mostly came from Lower 
Canada. Buried in the centre of an immense wilderness, unpro- 
tected, and without intercourse with the civilized world, these 
colonists gradually approximated to the savage state. Many of 
the males intermarried with the Indians, whose amity was by 
these ties secured and strengthened, and their numbers amounted 
to three hundred persons. 

"During the revolutionary war, their remote situation 
exempted them from all its evils, till, in 1782, they were visited by 
a detachment from Kentucky, who plundered and insulted them, 
and killed or drove off the cattle which formed their chief wealth. 

"The peace of 1783, gave them to the United States, under 
whose benign government they began to breathe again; but 
unluckily an Indian war commenced in 1788, and siding with the 
whites, as duty and discretion enjoined, they were annoyed by 
the savages, whose animosity was embittered by the remembrance 
of their ancient friendship and alliance. Their cattle were killed, 
their village closely beset, and, for several years, they could not 
carry the plough or hoe a musket shot from their huts. 

"Military service was added to their other hardships; but, in 
1792, the compassion of the federal government gave four hundred 
acres of land to every one who paid the capitation, and one hun- 
dred more to every one who served in the militia. This domain, so 
ample to a diligent husbandman, was of little value to the hunting 
Frenchmen, who soon bartered away their invaluable ground for 
about 30 cents an acre, which was paid to them in goods, on which 
an exorbitant profit was charged. This land was of the best qual- 
ity; it sold, as early as 1796, at two dollars an acre, and I may ven- 
ture to say is now worth at least ten. Thus, for the most part, 
reduced again to their gardens, or the little homestead which was 
indispensable to their subsistence, they had nothing to live on 
but their fruit, potatoes, maize, and now and then a little game; 
and, on this fare, no wonder they became as lean as Arabs. 



Samuel R. Brown. 161 

"Their ignorance, indeed, was profound. Nobody ever opened 
a school among them, till it was done by the abbe R. a polite, well 
educated, and liberal minded missionary, banished hither by the 
French revolution. Out of nine of the French, scarcely six could 
read or write, whereas nine-tenths of the Americans, or emigrants 
from the east, could do both. Their dialect is by no means, as I 
had been previously assured, a vulgar or provincial brogue, but 
pretty good French, intermixed with many military terms and 
phrases, all the settlements having been originally made by sol- 
diers. The primitive stock of Canada was the regiment of Carig- 
non."* 

The country around Vincennes in every direction, being well 
adapted to settlements and cultivation, what is there to prevent 
this place from equalling, in a very few years, in numbers, wealth, 
and refinement, the fine towns of Lexington, Louisville and Cin- 
cinnati . Building lots in Vincennes sell at from fifty to one thous- 
and dollars a lot. There are two roads leading to the Ohio; one 
to fort Harrison; one to Princeton; and one to I'askaskia. 

A new village has feen laid out at Terre Haute, three miles 
below fort Harrison. This situation, for beauty of prospect, is 
exceeded by none in the state. 

PRICES AND SALES OF PUBLIC LANDS. 

Congress lands, after the auction sales are closed, sell invari- 
ably for $2 an acre. For a quarter section, $80 are to be paid down 
— the same sum in two years; and the remainder in annual pay- 
ments, without interest, if punctually made. Those who pay in 
advance, are entitled to a discount of eight per cent. 

Harrison's Purchase, containing upwards of 3,000,000 acres, 
lying between Whiteriver, the Wabash, and Rocky river, was 
opened for sale at auction, at Jeffersonville, in Sept. last, and 
altho' the Canadian volunteers had previously selected their 
donation lots, numerous tracts were sold at from $4 to $30. an 
acre. A fractional section on the Wabash, below fort Harrison, 
sold for $32.18, and several others from $20 to $30. Speculators 
from all quarters attended the sales. 

The Canadian volunteers deserved the munificence of the 
United States, for they freely shed their blood under our banners, 
upon the Niagara frontier, under the intrepid Wilcocks, Delapierre, 
and Markle. But unfortunately the cup of generosity was upset 
before it reached their mouths. We gave them the choice of the 

*See Volney's View of the Soil and Climate of the United States, pages 334 and 335. 
T — 11 



162 Early Travels in Indiana. 

best lands in the United States, merely to enrich the Mammon of 
speculation. Most of these brave men have blindly or neces- 
sitously parted with their lands for a song. 

ANTIQUITIES. 

On the hills, two miles east of the town, are three large mounds; 
and others are frequently met with on the prairies and upland, 
from Whiteriver to the head of the Wabash. They are in every 
respect similar to those in Franklin county, already described. 

The French have a tradition, that an exterminating battle was 
fought in the beginning of the last century, on the ground where 
fort Harrison now stands, between the Indians living on the Missis- 
sippi, and those of the Wabash. The bone of contention was the 
lands lying between those rivers, which both parties claimed. 
There were about 1,000 warriors on each side. The condition of 
the fight was, that the victors should possess the lands in dispute. 
The grandeur of the prize was peculiarly calculated to inflame the 
ardor of savage minds. The contest commenced about sunrise. 
Both parties fought desperately. The Wabash warriors came off 
conquerors, having seven men left alive at sunset, and their adver- 
saries but five. The mounds are still to be seen where it is said 
the slain were buried. 



This county is bounded by the counties of Warwick and 
Orange on the east, the county of Posey on the south, the Wabash 
river on the west, and the county of Knox on the north. It is 
watered by several creeks and runs, falling into the Petoka and 
Wabash. About one half of this county has a fertile and highly 
favorable soil; and the greater part of the other half would be pro- 
nounced good, in any of the Atlantic states. 

Princeton — Is the county seat; it lies thirty-five miles nearly 
south of Vincennes. It has a post-office; and has had a rapid 
growth, considering the newness of the surrounding settlements. 

Harmony. — This village is situated on the Wabash, half a day's 
ride below Princeton, and is settled by the Harmonists, from Butler 
county, Pennsylvania. They are under the direction of the Rev. 
George Rapp; and hold their property in community. They have 
a very extensive establishment for the manufacturing of wool. 
Their Merino cloth is not surpassed by any in America. They 
also cultivate the vine; and are distinguished for their temperance, 
industry and skill in many of the mechanical professions. 



Samuel R. Brown. 163 



POSEY, 



Is situated south of Gibson, bounded on the east by the county 
of Warwick, on the south and west by the Ohio and Wabash 
rivers. It contains rich and extensive prairies; but the banks of 
the Wabash are in many places subject to inundation, both from 
its own floods, and those of the Ohio, which sets up the Wabash 
several miles. 

WARWICK. 

This county is situated east of the county of Posey, bounded 
on the east by the county of Perry, on the south by the Ohio 
river, on the west by the county of Posey, and on the north by the 
counties of Orange and Knox. It is a level and rich county, 
watered by several large creeks running into the Ohio, such as 
Beaver, Pigeon, &c. It is nevertheless but indifferently watered, 
owing to the early drying up of the streams. The prairies are num- 
erous, but mostly inferior, in point of soil, to those bordering the 
Wabash. The prevailing timber being oak, the range for hogs is 
excellent. 



Is bounded east by Harrison, north by Orange and Washing- 
ton, west by Warwick, and south by the Ohio river. It is watered 
by the little river Anderson, and by creeks and runs falling into the 
Ohio. It was established in 1615. [1815]. 



These consist of Mascontins, Piankashaws, Kickapoos, Del- 
aware^, Miamis, Shawancese, Weeaws, Ouitanans, Eel-rivers, 
Hurons, and Pottawattamies. 

The Mascontins and Piankashaws reside on the rivers falling 
into the right bank of the Wabash, between Vincennes and Tippa- 
canoe. Their numbers are given at 1,000 souls. Hutchins affirms 
that they, together with the Kickapoos, could raise 1,000 war- 
riors. 

The Kickapoos reside on the west side of the Wabash, above 
TippaCanoe, and on the head waters of the Illinois. They have 
several large villages, and can raise 400 warriors. 

The Delawares reside on the head waters of Whiteriver, in a 
village surrounded by large open prairies. I have no data for 
stating their numbers with accuracy; they are not numerous. 

The Miamis inhabit the upper Wabash, Massissinway, Miami- 



164 Early Travels in Indiana. 

of-the-lakes, and Little St. Josephs- — mostly within one or two 
day's travel of fort Wayne. General Harrison burnt four of their 
towns at the forks of the Wabash, in September, 1813. They are 
the proprietors of excellent lands, and cultivate large quantities 
of Indian corn. They are reduced to about 1,100 souls. 

The Shawancese live on and near the banks of Tippacanoe, 
Ponce Passu creek, and the Wabash river. They were formerly a 
very formidable and warlike tribe; but have been reduced by their 
frequent wars, to about 400 warriors. They have fine lands, and 
raise an abundance of corn. Their country was invaded by Gen- 
eral Wilkinson, in 1791, who destroyed their principal town, near 
the mouth of Tippacanoe, called Kathtippecamunk. "It contained 
one hundred and twenty houses, eighty of which were shingle 
roofed. The best houses belonged to the French traders. The 
gardens and improvements around were delightful. There was a 
tavern, with cellars, bar, public and private rooms; and the whole 
marked no small degree of order and civilization." Not far from 
the ruins of this town stands the celebrated Prophet's town, 
destroyed by General Harrison, in Nov. 1811, but since rebuilt. 
Above [below] Tippacanoe is the old French post of Ouitanan, 
situated on the north [south] side of the Wabash, in the centre of 
the Indian country. This place is as old as Vincennes. 

Several half civilized French inhabitants reside here as well 
as at L'Anguille, on Eelriver. They raise corn, and trade with the 
Indians. 

The Hurons reside in a small village, ten or fifteen miles south 
east of Ouitanan. There are only ten or twelve families of them. 
The Eelrivers and Weeaws are bands of the Miamis; and reside 
on the Wabash and Eelriver. They can collect about 100 warriors. 
A part of the Winnebagoes occupy a village on Ponce Passu 
creek, seven miles east of the Prophet's town, which contains from 
forty-five to fifty houses, several of which are fifty feet long; others 
reside on the branches of Plein and Fox rivers, and frequent 
Chicago. 

The Pottawattamies are the most numerous tribe in the state. 
They reside on the Elkhart branch of the St. Josephs, where they 
have five villages, one of which is situated in an immense prairie, 
sixty miles west of fort Wayne. The course of this branch is north 
west. The balance of this tribe live on the St. Josephs, Chicago, 
Kennomic, and Theakaki rivers. 

The best proof of the excellence of the land on the Upper 
Wabash, is the circumstance of its being the scene of a numerous 



Samuel R. Brown. 165 

Indian population. These sagacious children of nature are good 
judges of land. Indeed, they are rarely, if ever, found on a barren 
soil. 

EXTENT OF NAVIGABLE WATERS. 

Miles 
The Ohio river washes the southern boundary of Indiana, 

for the distance of 472 

Wabash, navigable 470 

Whiteriver, and its forks 160 

Petoka 30 

Blueriver 40 

White River 40 

Rocky River 45 

Panne 30 

Massissinway 45 

Eel, and Little rivers 60 

Western tributaries of the Wabash 330 

St. Joseph of Miami and Panther's Creek 75 

Elkhart and part of St. Joseph of L. Mich 100 

Great and Little Kennomic 120 

Chemin River 40 

Chicago and Kickapoo 80 

Theakaki, and parts of Fox, Plein and Illinois 300 

Southern coast of Lake Michigan 50 

Total 2,487 

The foregoing estimate does not embrace streams boatable 
less than thirty miles; besides, several of those named are navi- 
gable for canoes and small boats many miles further than the given 
distances annexed. 

The distance from Chicago, to New Orleans, by water, is 1,680 
miles — to Buffalo, about 800. The surplus products of three 
fourths of the state will find their way to the New Orleans market. 

VIEW OF PORTAGES. 

All the streams in the northern parts of the state, which 
empty into the Wabash and Illinois, have their branches inter- 
woven with many of the rivers running into lakes Erie and Mich- 
igan. Indeed, as before observed, they not unfrequently issue 
from the same marsh, prairie, pond, or lake. There are upwards 
of twenty portages near the Michigan frontier, only two of which 
have hitherto been used by the whites. The first of these is 
between the St. Marys and the Littleriver branch of the Wabash, 
and is nine miles long. The road which is good in dry seasons, 



166 Early Travels in Indiana. 

leaves the St. Marys near Fort Wayne, where teams are kept for 
the transportation of boats and merchandize. It was by this 
route that the French, while in possession of Canada, passed from 
the lakes to their posts on the Wabash. From the levelness of the 
intervening country, a canal could be easily opened, uniting the 
two streams. The second is the short portage between the 
Chicago and the Kickapoo branch of the Illinois, rendered impor- 
tant by the inundations, which at certain seasons cover the inter- 
mediate prairie, from which the two opposite streams flow. 
By this means nature has herself opened a navigable communi- 
cation between the Great Lakes and the Mississippi; and it is a 
fact, however difficult it may be of belief to many', that boats not 
unfrequently pass from Lake Michigan into the Illinois, and in 
some instances without being subjected to the necessity of having 
their lading taken out. I have never been on this portage, and 
therefore cannot speak from personal knowledge, yet the fact has 
reached me through so many authentic channels, that I have no 
doubt of its truth. Gen. P. B. Porter, whose geographical knowl- 
edge of the countries bordering the lakes, is excelled by that of no 
gentleman in the western country, has given his corroborative testi- 
mony in his speech on internal navigation delivered on the floor 
of congress in 1810. Lieutenant Hamilton of the United States 
army, a meritorious officer, whose services have not been ade- 
quately requited, informed a friend of mine living at Detroit, that he 
had passed with a laden boat, and met with no obstructions on the 
portage, except from the grass, through which, however, the men 
easily forced the boat. But, in order to multiply proof and remove 
every doubt, I consulted the Hon. N. Pope, the Territorial Dele- 
gate in congress from Illinois, who in answer to my enquiries 
stated, that "at high water boats pass out of Lake Michigan into 
the Illinois river, and so vice versa, without landing. A canal 
uniting them is deemed practicable at a small expense," &c. 
When on the upper lakes, I frequently met with voyageurs who 
had assisted in navigating boats across this portage. 

This morass is not the only one possessing two distinct outlets. 
I have myself witnessed this phenomenon in several instances; but 
never where there was water sufficient to float a laden boat. Let 
us hear what the justly celebrated Volney, says on this interesting 
subject. 

"During the vernal floods, the north branch of the Great Miami 
mixes its waters with the southern branch of the Miami of the 
Lake. The carrying place, or portage, of a league, which separates 



Samuel R. Brown. 167 

their heads, disappears beneath the flood, and we can pass in 
canoes from the Ohio to Lake Erie, as I myself witnessed in 1796. 

"At Loremier's Fort, or store, an eastern branch of the Wabash 
serves as a simple canal to connect the two Miamis; and the same 
Wabash, by a northern branch, communicates, above Fort Wayne, 
in the time of inundation, with the Miami of Lake Erie. 

"In the winter of 1792-3, two boats (perogues) were detached 
from Detroit, by a mercantile house, from whom I received the 
information, which passed, without interruption, from the Huron 
river,* which enters Lake Erie, into Grand River, which falls into 
Lake Michigan, by means of the rise at the heads of the two 
streams. 

"The Muskingum, which flows into the Ohio, communicates, 
at its cources, through some small lakes, with the Cayahoga, 
belonging to Lake Erie." 

There is a portage of four miles between the St. Joseph's of 
Lake Michigan, and the Theakaki; of two miles between the Thea- 
kaki and the Great Kennomic; of half a mile between the Great 
and Little Kennomic ; of four miles between the Chemin and Little 
Kennomic; and of three miles between the west fork of Chicago 
and Plein; besides numerous ones between the head branches of 
the two St. Josephs; Black, Raisin and Eel rivers, which vary in 
length according to the dryness or moisture of the season. There 
is a short portage between the St. Marys and the main branch of 
the Wabash, over which, in times of inundation, the Indians pass 
with their light perogues. 

MISCELLANEOUS. 

Chicago is a small river, which forks sixteen miles from the 
lake, into the east and west branches. Sloops of forty tons burthen 
can enter its harbor. Six miles from the lake its current becomes 
brisk, and continues so as far as the portage. Fort Dearborn 
famous for the murder of its garrison in September 1815, [1812] 
by the Pottawattamies, stood upon its left bank near the lake 
shore. The Indians have relinquished to the United States a 
tract of land six miles square, at the mouth of this river. The fort 
has, been lately re-occupied. 

The Great Kennomic- — This river rises twenty or thirty miles 
S. of lake Michigan, and running a N. W. course approaches 

*The river Huron mentioned by Volney, enters Lake Erie six miles below Maiden. 
There are two other rivers of this name; one falls into Lake Erie twelve miles below 
Sandusky Bay, and the other into Lake St. Clair. 



168 Early Travels in Indiana. 

within two or three miles of that lake. Thence winding to the S. 
W. and north, it forms a curviture nearly similar to the end of the 
lake, and parallel with it, keeping at the distance of 8 or 9 miles. 
It thence turns suddenly to the S. E. E. and N. E. in a contrary but 
parallel direction to its former course, and empties into the lake 30 
miles east of Chicago. It expands behind the sand hills near its 
mouth, and forms a spacious bay. It affords to the Indians an 
inexhaustible supply of fish, and an ample range for fowling and 
trapping. Its banks are low, and its current gentle. 

Population. — I have recently received several letters from 
gentlemen residing in Indiana, which concur in stating that the 
population has doubled since May 1815. In other words, it now 
amounts to 128,000 souls, a rapidity of increase altogether unprec- 
edented. 

Price of Improved Lands. — Farms containing a log house and 
fifteen or twenty acres, sell as high as eight or ten dollars; in some 
instances the necessities or rambling dispositions of the inhab- 
itants induce them to dispose of their plantations at a trifling 
advance upon the original price. 

Falls of the Ohio. — An improvement of the navigation of the 
falls is about to be attempted by a canal round the rapids. The 
legislature have incorporated a company with a capital of $1,000,- 
000. When this enterprize is accomplished, ship building will 
probably re-commence with vigor. 

It was the difficulties encountered in getting vessels over these 
rapids, which chiefly contributed to discourage this important 
business abo\ e the falls. 

The Wabash. — The rapids at Ouitanan are impassable for 
boats; but the navigation is so good between Vincennes and this 
place, that Gen. Hopkins in his expedition to Tippecanoe in 1813, 
conveyed his baggage and stores in large keels, of thirty tons 
burthen. General Harrison in his expedition against the Prophet, 
was accompanied in his march through the wilderness by a caravan 
of waggons! They were enabled to proceed with tolerable speed by 
keeping in the prairies to the west of the woodlands bordering the 
Wabash. 

Washington County. — In addition to the streams mentioned in 
page 66, is watered by Blueriver, which rises in the eastern part of 
the county, and pursuing a S. E. course, passes through Harrison 
county twelve miles south-west of Corydon. 

Climate. — From the latitude of Ouitanan, (40 20) to the bor- 
ders of the Ohio, the climate of Indiana may be pronounced mild. 



Samuel R. Brown. 169 

North of the head branches of the Wabash, the north and north- 
west winds are formidable enemies to human comfort, and the 
winters severe and rigorous; though snow is rarely known to fall so 
deep as it does in the northern counties of New- York. The 
southern shore of Lake Michigan, and the vast prairies in the direc- 
tion of the Wabash have little to protect them from the rage of 
the brumal winds. 

The Reed Cane. — This plant grows south of thp ridge of hills 
extending from the falls of the Ohio to those of the Wabash above 
the mouth of Whiteriver. It is sometimes found as far north as 
the mouth of the Big Miami. Cotton, the vines of Spain, the silk 
worm, and the sweet potatoe will flourish wherever the reed cane 
grows, except, the first, which does not grow to perfection beyond 
31 degrees of north latitude. Rice and Indigo, I think would do 
well between Blueriver and the Wabash, though I have never 
seen either cultivated, or heard that the inhabitants have yet made 
the trial. I have seen these plants growing luxuriantly in Overton 
county, Tennessee, which is a high broken country, near the Ken- 
tucky boundary line, in latitude 36 35. The mouth of the Wabash 
is in 37 50. 

The state will doubtless produce cotton sufficient for its own 
consumption. It is already raised in considerable quantities at 
Vincennes, Princeton, Harmony, and in the settlements below the 
mouth of Anderson. The Wabash will at no very remote period, 
serve as a canal to supply with cotton, a part of the market on the 
northern lakes. 

Game. — The forests of Indiana are abundantly stocked with 
game. Great numbers of deer are annually destroyed by the 
inhabitants. In travelling seven miles through the woods of 
Dearborn county, I counted two bears, three deer, and upwards of 
one hundred turkies; more that half of the latter, however, were 
young ones, just beginning to fly. I will here relate an adventure 
which may serve to throw some light on the natural history of the 
deer. In the course of the day, I missed my way and wandered 
several miles in the wilderness, in my endeavors to regain the path 
I started a fawn, which I soon caught, in consequence of its becom- 
ing entangled in the herbage. It bleated and appeared greatly 
frightened. Conceiving myself to be near a settlement and 
unwilling to destroy it, I resolved to carry it to the first house; but 
after travelling half a mile its dam made her appearance, and 
seemed by her piteous demonstrations, plainly to reproach me for 
my cruelty; upon which I gave the fawn its liberty. But I was not 



170 Early Travels in Indiana. 

a little surprised, to find it so much attached to rne during our 
transient acquaintance, that it absolutely refused to leave me. I 
pushed it from me and pursued my course; but soon found it at 
my heels, apparently as docile as a pet lamb, and was compelled to 
frighten it before it would turn from me. Relating this fact to 
some old hunters, they assured me that such is the docility of 
fawns, that they can be as effectually tamed in an hour, as a 
year. 

Deer, it is said, are the mortal enemies of rattlesnakes; and 
often kill them designedly by jumping on them. They can scent 
them at considerable distance; and when pursued by dogs will 
avoid those which may happen to lie in their way, by suddenly 
inclining to the right or left. It is also reported that the turkey 
buzzard has the power of killing the rattlesnake by its intolerable 
stench — which it most powerfully emits by a violent fluttering in 
the air a little above the snake's head. 

Farmers are greatly annoyed by the smaller animals, such as 
squirrels, moles and mice; for nature is as prolific in animal as 
vegetable productions. The mole is particularly troublesome to 
cornfields while the seed is coming up, and injurious to meadows, 
as it bores the earth in every direction. 

Minerals. — The surface of Indiana is too champaign to be rich 
in mines of gold or silver. It is, nevertheless, stated that a silver 
mine has been discoveied near Ouitanan. Iron ore is found in 
many counties, probably in sufficient quantities for domestic 
use. Chalybeate springs are plentiful. The water between 
Whiteriver and New Lexington is in some places impregnated 
with copperas to such a degree, that linen washed in it turns black; 
and a few of the inhabitants have been induced to abandon their 
habitations in consequence of the supposed unwholesomeness of 
their wells. 

Indian Claims. — Near two-thirds of this state belongs to the 
Indians. Their title is extinguished in the eastern part, from Fort 
Wayne to the river Ohio, on an average of about twenty-five 
miles wide, on the margin of the Ohio and up the Wabash and 
western line to a point N. W. of Fort Harrison, and from thence 
eastwardly to the eastern purchase, about thirty-five miles from 
the Ohio. Notwithstanding the greater extent of soil purchased 
from the Indians in the west, a meridian equidistant from the 
eastern and western boundary would pretty fairly divide the popu- 
lation; but the western section will populate fastest, owing to the 
extent of recently purchased lands. 



From Notes on a journey in America from the coast of 
Virginia to the territory of Illinois, by Morris Birk- 
beck [1818], pp. 81-118. 

Birkbeck, Morris. 

Morris Birkbeck, a Quaker farmer of education and ability, decided in 
1817 to leave England and make a new home for himself and his family 
somewhere in America. 

In the spring of 1817 he joined his friend George Flower in Richmond, 
Virginia, and they proceeded westward through Pennsylvania, Ohio, Indiana 
and Illinois, finally locating and establishing a colony in what is now Edwards 
County. In 1818 his "Notes on a journey in America, from the coast of 
Virginia to the territory of Illinois" was published. The Edinburgh Review 
speaks of this book as "one of the most interesting and instructive books 
that have appeared in years." His description of Indiana is found on pp. 
91-118 of the Dublin edition of 1818. 

Mr. Birkbeck was drowned in 1825. He was one of the leaders against 
the attempt to introduce slavery into the new state of Illinois. 

June 22 [1817]. As we approach the Little Miami river the 
country becomes more broken, much more fertile, and better settled. 
After crossing this rapid and clear stream we had a pleasant ride to 
Lebanon, which is not a mountain of cedars, but a valley, so beau- 
tiful and fertile, that it seemed, on its first opening on our view, 
enriched as it was by the tints of evening, rather a region of fancy 
than a real backwood scene. 

Lebanon is itself one of those wonders which are the natural 
growth of these backwoods. In fourteen years, from two or three 
cabins of half-savage hunters, it has grown to be the residence of a 
thousand persons, with habits and looks no way differing from 
their brethren of the east. Before we entered the town we heard 
the supper bells of the taverns and arrived just in time to take our 
seats at the table, among just such a set as I should have expected 
to meet at the ordinary in Richmond; travellers like ourselves, 
with a number of store-keepers, lawyers, and doctors; — men who 
board at the taverns, and make up a standing company for the 
daily public table. 

This morning we made our escape from this busy scene, in 
defiance of the threatening rain. A crowded tavern in an Ameri- 
can town, though managed as is that we have just quitted, with 
great attention and civility, is a place from which you are always 
willing to depart. After all, the wonder is, that so many comforts 
are provided for you at so early a period. 

Cincinnati, like most American towns, stands too low; it is 

(171) 



172 Early Travels in Indiana. 

built on the banks of the Ohio, and the lower part is not out of the 
reach of spring-floods. 

As if "life was not more than meat, and the body than 
raiment," every consideration of health and enjoyment yields to 
views of mercantile convenience. Short-sighted and narrow 
economy! by which the lives of thousands are shortened, and the 
comfort of all sacrificed to mistaken notions of private interest. 

Cincinnati is, however, a most thriving place, and backed as it 
is already by a great population and a most fruitful country, 
bids fair to be one of the first cities of the west. We are told, and 
we cannot doubt the fact, that the chief of what we see is the work 
of four years. The hundreds of commodious, well-finished brick 
houses, the spacious and busy markets, the substantial public 
buildings, the thousands of prosperous, well-dressed, industrious 
inhabitants; the numerous waggons and drays, the gay carriages 
and elegant females; — the shoals of craft on the river, the busy stir 
prevailing every where; houses building, boats building, paving 
and levelling streets; the numbers of country people constantly 
coming and going; with the spacious taverns, crowded with travel- 
lers from a distance. 

All this is so much more than I could comprehend, from a 
description of a new town, just risen from the woods, that I 
despair of conveying an adequate idea of it to my English friends. 
It is enchantment, and Liberty is the fair enchantress. 

I was assured by a respectable gentleman, one of the first set- 
tlers, and now a man of wealth and influence, that he remembers 
when there was only one poor cabin where this noble town now 
stands. The county of Hamilton is something under the regular 
dimensions of twenty miles square, and it already contains 30,000 
inhabitants. Twenty years ago the vast region comprising the 
states of Ohio and Indiana, and the territory of Illinois and Michi- 
gan, onlycounted 30,000 inhabitants: — the same number that are 
now living, and living happily, in the little county of Hamilton, 
in which stands Cincinnati. 

Why do not the governments of Europe afford such an asylum, 
in their vast and gloomy forests, for their increasing myriads of 
paupers? This would be an object worthy a convention of sov- 
ereigns, if sovereigns were really the fathers of their people: but 
jealous as they are of emigration to America, this simple and sure 
mode of preventing it will never occur to them. 

Land is rising rapidly in price in all well-settled neighbor- 
hoods. Fifty dollars per acre for improved land is spoken of famil- 



Morris Birkbeck. 173 

iarly: I have been asked thirty for a large tract, without improve- 
ments, on the Great Miami, fifty miles from Cincinnati, and similar 
prices in other quarters. An estate of a thousand acres, partially 
cleared, is spoken of, on the road to Louisville, at twenty dollars. 
Many offers occur, all at a very great advance of price. It now 
becomes a question, whether to fix in this comparatively populous 
state of Ohio, or join the vast tide of emigration that is flowing 
farther west, where we may obtain lands of equal value at the 
government price of two dollars per acre, and enjoy the advan- 
tage of choice of situation. 

Though I feel some temptation to linger here, where society is 
attaining a maturity truly astonishing, when we consider its early 
date, I cannot be satisfied without seeing that remoter country, 
before we fix in this, still enquiring and observing as we proceed. 
If we leave behind us eligible situations, it is like securing a retreat, 
to which we may return with good prospects, if we think it advis- 
able. 

The probability is, that, in those more remote regions, the 
accumulation of settlers will shortly render land as valuable as it 
is here at present; and, in the interim, this accession of inhab- 
itants will create a demand for the produce of the new country, 
equal to the supply. It is possible too, that we may find ourselves 
in as good society there as here. Well-educated persons are not 
rare amongst the emigrants who are moving farther west; for the 
spirit of emigration has reached a class somewhat higher in the 
scale of society than formerly. Some too may be aiming at the 
same point with ourselves; and others, if we prosper, will be likely 
to follow our example. 

We are also less reluctant at extending our views westward, on 
considering that the time is fast approaching when the grand 
intercourse with Europe will not be, as at present, through east- 
ern America, but through the great rivers which communicate by 
the Mississippi with the ocean, at New Orleans. In this view we 
approximate to Europe, as we proceed to the west. 

The upward navigation of these streams is already coming 
under the controul of steam, an invention which promises to be of 
incalculable importance to this new world. 

Such is the reasoning which impels us still forward; and in a 
few days we propose setting out to explore the state of Indiana, 
and probably the Illinois. With so long a journey before us, we 
are not comfortable under the prospect of separation. Our plan 
had been to lodge our main party at Cincinnati, until we had 



174 Early Travels in Indiana. 

fixed on our final abode; but this was before our prospects had 
taken so wide a range. We now talk of Vincennes, as we did before 
of this place, and I trust we shall shortly be again under weigh. 

June 27. Cincinnati. — All are alive here as soon as the day 
breaks. The stores are open, the markets thronged, and business 
is in full career by five o'clock in the morning; and nine o'clock is 
the common hour for retiring to rest. 

As yet I have felt nothing oppressive in the heat of this cli- 
mate. Melting, oppressive, sultry nights, succeeding broiling 
days, and forbidding rest, which are said to wear out the frames of 
the languid inhabitants of the eastern cities, are unknown here. 
A cool breeze always renders the night refreshing, and generally 
moderates the heat of the day. 

June 28. The numerous creeks in this country, which are apt 
to be swelled suddenly by heavy rains, render travelling perplex- 
ing, and even perilous to strangers, in a showery season like the 
present. On my way this morning from an excursion of about 
fifteen miles, to view an estate, a man who was mowing at some 
distance from the road, hailed me with the common, but to us 
quaint appellation of "stranger": — I stopped to learn his wishes. 
"Are you going to ride the creek?" "I know of no creek," said I; 
"but I am going to Cincinnati." — "I guess it will swim your horse." 
"How must I avoid it?" "Turn on your left, and go up to the 
mill, and you will find a bridge." Now if this kind man had rested 
on his scythe, and detained the "stranger" a few minutes, to learn 
his country, his name, and the object of his journey, as he prob- 
ably would had he been nearer to the road, he would but have 
evinced another trait of the friendly character of these good 
Americans. 

In this land of plenty, young people first marry, and then 
look out for the means of a livelihood without fear, or cause for it. 
The ceremony of marriage is performed in a simple family way, 
in my opinion more delicate, and corresponding to the nature of the 
contract, than the glaring publicity adopted by some, or the 
secrecy, not so respectable, affected by others. 

The near relations assemble at the house of the bride's parents. 
The minister or magistrate is in attendance, and when the candi- 
dates make their appearance, he asks them severally the usual 
questions, and having called on the company to declare if there be 
any objections, he confirms the union by a short religious formula; 
— the bridegroom salutes the bride, and|the ceremony is over. 
Tea and refreshments follow. Next day the bridgegroom holds his 



MORKIS BlRKBECK. 175 

levee, his numerous friends (and sympathy makes them numerous 
on these happy occasions,) pour in to offer their congratulations 
Abundance of refreshments of the most substantial kind are placed 
on side-tables, which are taken, not as a formal meal, but as they 
walk up and down the apartments, in cheerful conversation. This 
running-meal continues from noon till the close of the evening, 
the bride never making her appearance on the occasion; an example 
of delicacy worthy the imitation of more refined societies. 

June 28. Cincinnati. The Merino mania seems to have pre- 
vailed in America to a degree exceeding its highest pitch in Eng- 
land. In Kentucky, where even the negroes would no more eat 
mutton than they would horseflesh, there were great Merino breed- 
ers. There was and is, I believe, a sheep society here, to encourage 
the growth of fine wool, on land as rich as the deepest, fattest 
vallies of our island, and in a country still overwhelmed with 
timber of the heaviest growth. As strange and incomprehensible 
an infatuation this, and as inconsistent with plain common sense, 
as the determined rejection of the fine-woolled race by the Eng- 
lish breeders of short- wooled sheep; but that there should ever 
have been a rage for sheep of any kind in any part of this country 
that I have seen, must be owing to general ignorance of the con- 
stitution and habits of this animal. There is not a district, scarcely 
a spot that I have travelled over, where a flock of fine-woolled 
sheep could be kept with any prospect of advantage, provided 
there were even a market for the carcase. Yet by the ragged 
remains of the Merino family, which may be recognized in many 
places, I perceive that the attempt has been very general. Mutton 
is almost as abhorrent to an American palate, or fancy, as the flesh 
of swine to an Israelite; and the state of the manufactures does not 
give great encouragement to the growth of wool of any kind; of 
Merino wool less, perhaps, than any other. Mutton is sold in the 
markets of Philadephia at about half the price of beef; and the 
Kentuckian, who would have given a thousand dollars for a Merino 
ram, would dine upon dry bread rather than taste his own mut- 
ton! A few sheep on every farm, to supply coarse wool for domestic 
manufacture, seems to be all that ought at present to be attempted, 
in any part of America that I have yet seen. 

I have heard that in the western part of Virginia sheep are 
judiciously treated, and kept to advantage, and that there exists 
in that country no prejudice against the meat: also that the north- 
eastern states have good sheep pastures, and a moderate dislike of 



176 Early Travels in Indiana. 

mutton: to these, of course, my remarks on sheep husbandry are 
not applicable. Deep woods are not the proper abodes of sheep. 

When America shall have cleared away her forests, and opened 
her uplands to the breezes, they will soon be covered with fine 
turf, and flocks will be seen ranging over them here, as in other 
parts of the world. Anticipation often retards improvement, by 
giving birth to prejudice. 

There are about two thousand people regularly employed as 
boatmen on the Ohio, and they are proverbially ferocious and 
abandoned in their habits, though with many exceptions, as I 
have good grounds for believing. People who settle along the line 
of this grand navigation generally possess or acquire similar habits; 
and thus profligacy of manners seems inseparable from the 
population on the banks of these great rivers. It is remarked, 
indeed, every where, that inland navigators are worse than sailors. 

This forms a material objection to a residence on the Ohio, 
outweighing all the beauty and local advantages of such a situa- 
tion. 

July 6. We are now at the town of Madison, on our way 
through the State of Indiana towards Vincennes. This place is on 
the banks of the Ohio, about seventy-five miles from Cincinnati. 

Our road has been mostly from three to six miles from the river, 
passing over fertile hills and alluvial bottoms. 

The whole is appropriated ; but although settlements multiply 
daily, many large intervals remain between the clearings. 

Indiana is evidently newer than the state of Ohio; and if I 
mistake not, the character of the settlers is different, and superior 
to that of the first settlers in Ohio, who were generally very indi- 
gent people : those who are now fixing themselves in Indiana bring 
with them habits of comfort, and the means of procuring the con- 
veniences of life; I observe this in the construction of their cabins 
and the neatness surrounding them, and especially in their well- 
stocked gardens, so frequent here and so rare in the state of Ohio, 
where their earlier and longer settlement would have afforded 
them better opportunities of making this great provision for domes- 
tic comfort. 

I have also had the pleasure of seeing many families of healthy 
children; and from my own continued observation, confirmed by 
the testimony of every competent evidence that has fallen in my 
way, I repeat, with still more confidence, that the diseases so 
alarming to all emigrants, and which have been fatal to so many, 
are not attached to the climate, but to local situation. Repeti- 



Morris Birkbeck. 177 

tions will be excused on this important subject. Hills on a dry- 
soil are healthy, after some progress has been made in clearing; 
for deep and close woods are not salubrious either to new comers 
or old settlers. The neighbourhood of overflowing streams, and 
all wet, marshy soils, are productive of agues and bilious fevers in 
the autumn. 

Such is the influx of strangers into this state, that the industry 
of the settlers is severely taxed to provide food for themselves, 
and a superfluity for new comers : and thus it is probable there will 
be a market for all the spare produce, for a series of years, owing 
to the accession of strangers, as well as the rapid internal growth 
of population. This is a favourable condition of a new colony, 
which has not been calculated on by those who take a distant view 
of the subject. This year Kentucky has sent a supply in aid of 
this hungry infant state. 

July 7. I have good authority for contradicting a supposition 
that I have met with in England, respecting the inhabitants of 
Indiania, — that they are lawless, semi-barbarous vagabonds, 
dangerous to live among. On the contrary, the laws are respected, 
and are effectual; and the manners of the people are kind and 
gentle to each other, and to strangers. 

An unsettled country, lying contigious to one that is settled, is 
always a place of retreat for rude and even abandoned characters, 
who find the regulations of society intolerable; and such, no doubt, 
had taken up their unfixed abode in Indiana. These people retire, 
with the wolves, from the regular colonists, keeping always to the 
outside of civilized settlements. They rely for their subsistence on 
their rifle, and a scanty cultivation of corn, and live in great 
poverty and privation, a degree only short of the savage state of 
Indians. 

Of the present settlers, as I have passed along from house to 
house, I could not avoid receiving a most favourable impression. 
I would willingly remain among them, but pre-occupation sends 
us still forward in the steps of the roaming hunters I have just 
described, some of whom we shall probably dislodge when we make 
our settlement, which, like theirs, will probably be in the con- 
fines of society. 

As to the inhabitants of towns, the Americans are much 
alike, as far as we have had an opportunity of judging. We look 
in vain for any striking difference in the general deportment and 
appearance of the great bulk of Americans, from Norfolk on the 
eastern coast, to the town of Madison in Indiana. The same good- 



178 Early Travels in Indiana. 

looking, well-dressed (not what we call gentlemanly) men appear 
every where. Nine out of ten, native Americans, are tall and long- 
limbed, approaching, or even exceeding six feet; in pantaloons and 
Wellington boots, either marching up and down with their hands 
in their pockets, or seated on chairs poised on the hind-feet, 
and the backs rested against the walls. If a hundred Americans 
of any class were to seat themselves, ninety-nine would shuffle 
their chairs to the true distance, and then throw themselves back 
against the nearest prop. The women exhibit a great similarity of 
tall, relaxed forms, with consistent dress and demeanour; and are 
not remarkable for sprightliness of manners. Intellectual culture 
has not yet made much progress among the generality of either sex 
where I have travelled ; but the men have greatly the advantage in 
the means of acquiring information, from their habits of travelling, 
and intercourse with strangers :•*— sources of improvement from 
which the other sex is unhappily too much secluded. 

Lexington. This town is only three years old. Madison dates 
its origin two years farther back. Yet, much as has been done dur- 
ing this short period, and much as there remains to do, we see in 
every village and town, as we pass along, groups of young able- 
bodied men, who seem to be as perfectly at leisure as the loungers 
of ancient Europe. This love of idleness where labour is so profit- 
able and effective, is a strange affection. I have no notion of life 
as a pleasurable thing, except where connected with action. 
Rest is certainly a delightful sensation, but it implies previous 
labour: there is no rest for the indolent, any more than for the 
wicked: "They yawn and stretch, but find no rest." — I suspect 
that indolence is the epidemic evil of the Americans. If you 
enquire of hale young fellows, why they remain in this listless 
state — "We live in freedom," they say, "we need not work like 
the English." Thus they consider it their privilege to do noth- 
ing. But the trees of the forest are still more highly privileged in 
this sort of passive existence, this living to do nothing; for they are 
fed and exercised without any toil at all; the trees, "sua si bona 
norint," did they but know their bliss, might be objects of envy 
to many a tall young American. 

July 12. Hawkins's Tavern, sixteen miles east of Vincennes. 
On traversing the state of Indiana to this place, I retain the same 
idea as to the character of the settlers that struck me on our 
entrance. They are an order of colonists somewhat higher than 
the first settlers of their sister state. There remains, however, a 
considerable number of backwoods' men, somewhat savage in 



Morris Birkbeck. 179 

character, and who look on new comers as intruders. The accom- 
modation for travellers will soon be greatly superior to those in 
the Ohio state, as are those of the Ohio to the taverns of Penn- 
sylvania, west of the mountains. 

The country, from the town of Madison to the Camp Tavern, 
is not interesting, and great part of it is but of medium quality. 
At the latter place commences a broken country, approaching to 
mountainous, which, if well watered, would form a fine grazing 
district; but the little streams are now dried up, notwithstanding 
the late copious rains. This beautiful country continues as far as 
Sholt's Tavern, on White River, thirty-six miles east of Vincennes. 
Most of this hilly distict is unentered, and remains open to the 
public at two dollars per acre. 

Our rear party, consisting of one of the ladies, a servant boy, 
and myself, were benighted, in consequence of accidental deten- 
tion at the foot of one of these rugged hills; and, without being well 
provided, were compelled to make our first experiment of "camp- 
ing out." 

A traveller in the woods should always carry flint, steel, tinder, 
and matches; a few biscuits, a half-pint phial of spirits, and a tin 
cup; a large knife or tomahawk; then with his two blankets, and 
his great coat and umbrella, he need not be uneasy should any 
unforeseen delay require his sleeping under a tree. 

Our party having separated, the important articles of tinder 
and matches were in the baggage of the division which had pro- 
ceeded, and as the night was rainy and exceedingly dark, we 
were for some time under some anxiety lest we should have been 
deprived of the comfort and security of a fire. Fortunately, my 
powder-flask was in my saddle-bags, and we succeeded in sup- 
pling the place of tinder by moistening a piece of paper and rub- 
bing it with gun-powder. We placed our touch-paper on an old 
cambric handkerchief, as the most readily combustible article in 
our stores. On this we scattered gunpowder pretty copiously, 
and our flint and steel soon enabled us to raise a flame, and col- 
ecting dry wood, we made a noble fire. There was a mattrass 
for the lady, a bearskin for myself, and the load of the packhorse 
as a pallet for the boy. Thus, by means of great coats and blankets 
and our umbrellas spread over our heads, we made our quarters 
comfortable, and placing ourselves to the leeward of the fire, with 
our feet towards it, we lay more at ease than in the generality 
of taverns. Our horses fared rather worse, but we took care to 
tie them where they could browse a little, and occasionally shifted 



180 Early Travels in Indiana. 

their quarters. We had a few biscuits, a small bottle of spirits, 
and a phial of oil: with the latter we contrived, by twisting some 
twine very hard, and dipping it in the oil, to make torches; and 
after several fruitless attempts we succeeded in finding water; 
we also collected plenty of dry wood. "Camping out" when the 
tents are pitched by daylight, and the party is ready furnished 
with the articles which we were obliged to supply by expedients, is 
quite pleaasnt in fine weather: my companion was exceedingly ill, 
which was, in fact, the cause of our being benighted; and never 
was the night's charge of a sick friend undertaken with more dis- 
mal forebodings, especially during our ineffectual efforts to obtain 
fire, the first blaze of which was unspeakably delightful; after 
this the rain ceased, and the invalid passed the night in safety; 
so that the morning found us more comfortable than we could have 
anticipated. 

It has struck me as we have passed along from one poor 
hut to another among the rude inhabitants of this infant state, 
that travellers in general, who judge by comparison, are not qual- 
ified to form a fair estimate of these lonely settlers. Let a stranger 
make his way through England in a course remote from the great 
roads, and going to no inns, take such entertainment only as he 
might find in the cottages of labourers, he would have as much 
cause to complain of the rudeness of the people, and far more of 
their drunkenness and profligacy than in these back woods, 
although in England the poor are a part of a society where insti- 
tutions are matured by the experience of two thousand years. The 
bulk of the inhabitants of this vast wilderness may be fairly con- 
sidered as of the class of the lowest English peasantry, or just 
emerging from it : but in their manners and morals, and espe- 
cially in their knowledge and proud independence of mind, they 
exhibit a contrast so striking, that he must indeed be a petit 
maitre traveller, or ill-informed of the character and circum- 
stances of his poor countrymen, or deficient in good and manly 
sentiment, who would not rejoice to transplant, into these bound- 
less regions of freedom, the millions whom he has left behind him 
grovelling in ignorance and want. 

Vincennes, July 13. This town is scattered over a plain lying 
some feet lower than the banks of the Wabash : — a situation seem- 
ingly unfavourable to health; and in fact agues and bilious fevers 
are frequent in the autumn. 

The road from Sholt's Tavern to this place, thirty-six miles, is 
partly across "barrens," that is, land of middling quality, thinly 



Morris Birkbeck. 181 

set with timber, or covered with long grass and shrubby under- 
wood; generally level and dry, and gaudy with marigolds, sun- 
flowers, martagon lilies, and many other brilliant flowers; small 
"prairies," which are grass lands, free from underwood, and gen- 
erally somewhat marshy, and rich bottom land: on the whole, 
the country is tame, poorly watered, and not desirable as a place 
of settlement; but it is pleasant to travel over from its varied 
character. 

Vincennes exhibits a motley assemblage of inhabitants as well 
as visitors. The inhabitants are Americans, French, Canadians, 
Negroes; the visitors, among whom our party is conspicuous as 
English, (who are seldom seen in these parts,) Americans from 
various states, and Indians of various nations, — Shawnees, Dela- 
wares, and Miamies, who live about a hundred miles to the north- 
ward, and who are come here to trade for skins. The Indians are 
encamped in considerable numbers round the town, and are 
continually riding in to the stores and the whiskey shops. Their 
horses and accoutrements are generally mean, and their persons 
disagreeable. Their faces are painted in various ways, which 
mostly gives a ferocity to their aspects. 

One of them, a Shawnee, whom we met a few miles east of Vin- 
cennes, had his eyes, or rather his eyelids and surrounding parts, 
daubed with vermillion, looking hideous enough at a distance, but 
on a nearer view, he has good features, and is a fine, stout, fierce 
looking man, well remembered at Vincennes for the trouble he 
gave during the late war. This man exhibits a respectable beard, 
enough for a Germanized British officer of dragoons. Some of 
them are well dressed and good-looking people : one young man in 
particular, of the Miami nation, had a clear light blue cotton 
vest with sleeves, and his head ornamented with black feathers. 

They all wear pantaloons, or rather long mocassions of buck- 
skin, covering the foot and leg and reaching half way up the thigh, 
which is bare; a covering of cloth, passing between the thighs and 
hanging behind, like an apron, of a foot square. Their complexion 
is various, some dark, others not so swarthy as myself; but I saw 
none of the copper colour which I had imagined to be their uni- 
versal distinctive mark. They are addicted to spirits, and often 
intoxicated, but even then generally civil and good humoured. 
The Indians are said to be partial to the French traders, thinking 
them fairer than the English or Americans. They use much action 
in their discourse, and laugh immoderately. Their hair is straight 
and black, and their eyes dark. The women are, many of them, 



182 Early Travels in Indiana. 

decently Pressed and good-looking; they ride sometimes like the 
men, but side-saddles are not uncommon among them. Few of 
them of either sex speak English; but many of the people here speak 
a variety of the Indian languages. 

In the interior of Illinois the Indians are said sometimes to be 
troublesome, by giving abusive language to travellers, and steal- 
ing their horses when they encamp in the woods; but they never 
commit personal outrage. —Watchful dogs, and a rifle, are the best 
security; but I believe we shall have no reason to fear interruption 
in the quarter to which we are going. 

At this remote place we find ourselves in a comfortable tavern, 
and surrounded by genteel and agreeable people. Our company 
at supper was about thirty. 

The health of our party has been a source of some anxiety, 
increasing as the summer advances; and yet we have entirely 
escaped the diseases to which the country, or climate, or both, are 
said to be liable; but our approach to the Wabash has not been 
without some painful forebodings. 

We have remarked, en passant, that people generally speak 
favourably of their own country, and exaggerate every objection 
or evil, when speaking of those to which we are going: thus it may 
be that the accounts we have received of the unhealthiness of this 
river and its vicinity, have been too deeply coloured. We are 
accordingly greatly relieved by the information we have received 
here on this subject. The Wabash has not overflowed its banks 
this summer, and no apprehensions are now entertained as to the 
sickly season of August and September. 

July 18. Princeton. — We, in Great Britian, are so circum- 
scribed in our movements that miles with us seem equal to tens in 
America. I believe that travellers here will start on an expedi- 
tion of three thousand miles by boats, on horseback, or on foot, 
with as little deliberation or anxiety as we should set out on a 
journey of three hundred. 

Five hundred persons every summer pass down the Ohio 
from Cincinnati to New Orleans, as traders or boatmen, and 
return on foot. By water the distance is seventeen hundred miles, 
and the walk back a thousand. Many go down to New Orleans 
from Pittsburg, which adds five hundred miles to the distance by 
water, and three hundred by land. The store-keepers (country 
shopkeepers we should call them) of these western towns visit the 
eastern ports of Baltimore, New York and Philadelphia, once a 
year, to lay in their stock of goods; an evidence, it might seem, of 



Morris Birkbeck. 183 

want of confidence in the merchants of those places; but the great 
variety of articles, and the risk attending their carriage to so 
great a distance by land and water, render it necessary that the 
store-keepers should attend both to their purchase and con- 
veyance. 

I think the time is at hand when these periodical transmontane 
journeys are to give place to expeditions down the Ohio and Missis- 
sippi to New Orleans. The vast and increasing produce of these 
states in grain, flour, cotton, sugar, tobacco, peltry, timber, &c. 
&c. which finds a ready vent at New Orleans, will be returned 
through the same channel, in the manufactures of Europe and the 
luxuries of the east, to supply the growing demands of this west- 
ern world. How rapidly this demand actually increases it is utterly 
impossible to estimate; but some idea of it may be formed from a 
general view of the cause and manners of its gowth. In round num- 
bers there are probably half a million of inhabitants in Ohio, 
Indiana and Illinois. Immigration (if I may be allowed to bor- 
row a new but good word,) and births, will probably double this 
number in about six years; and in the mean time, the prosperous 
circumstances of almost every family are daily creating new wants, 
and awakening fresh necessities. 

On any spot where a few settlers cluster together, attracted 
by ancient neighbourhood, or by the goodness of the soil, or vicin- 
ity to a mill, or by whatever cause, some enterprising proprietor 
finds in his section what he deems a good scite for a town: he has it 
surveyed and laid out in lots, which he sells, or offers for sale by 
auction. 

The new town then assumes the name of its founder: — a 
store-keeper builds a little framed store, and sends for a few 
cases of goods; and then a tavern starts up, which becomes the 
residence of a doctor and a lawyer, and the boarding-house of the 
store-keeper, as well as the resort of the weary traveller: soon fol- 
low a blacksmith and other handicraftsmen in useful succession : a 
school-master, who is also the minister of religion, becomes an 
important accession to this rising community. Thus the town 
proceeds, if it proceeds at all, with accumulating force, until it 
becomes the metropolis of the neighborhood. Hundreds of these 
speculations may have failed, but hundreds prosper; and thus 
trade begins and thrives as population grows around these lucky 
spots; imports and exports maintaining their just proportion. 
One year ago the neighbourhood of this very town of Princetown 



184 Early Travels in Indiana. 

was clad in "buckskin;" now the men appear at church in good 
blue cloth, and the women in fine calicoes and straw bonnets. 

The town being fairly established, a cluster of inhabitants, 
small as it may be, acts as a stimulus on the cultivation of the 
neighbourhood: redundancy of supply is the consequence, and this 
demands a vent. Water mills, or in defect of water power, steam 
mills, rise on the nearest navigable stream, and thus an effectual 
and constant market is secured for the increasing surplus of pro- 
duce. Such are the elements of that accumulating mass of com- 
merce, in exports, and consequent imports, which will render the 
Mississippi the greatest thoroughfare in the world. 

At Vincennes, the foundation is just laid of a large establish- 
ment of mills to be worked by steam. Water mills of great power 
are now building on the Wabash, near Harmony, and undertak- 
ings of a similar kind will be called for and executed all along this 
river, which, with its tributary rivers, several of which are also 
navigable from the east and the west, is the outlet of a very rich 
and thickly settling country, comprising the prime of Indiana and a 
valuable portion of the Illinois, over the space of about one hun- 
dred thousand square miles. 

There is nothing in Vincennes, on its first appearance, to make 
a favourable impression on a stranger; but it improves on acquaint- 
ance, for it contains agreeable people; and there is a spirit of clean- 
liness, and even neatness in their houses and manner of living: 
there is also a strain of politeness, which marks the origin of this 
settlement in a way which is very flattering to the French. 

It is a phenomenon in national character which I cannot 
explain, but the fact will not be disputed, that the urbanity of 
manners which distinguishes that nation from all others is never 
entirely lost; but that French politeness remains until every trace 
of French origin is obliterated. A Canadian Frenchman who, after 
having spent twenty years of his prime among the Indians, set- 
tles in the back woods of the United States, still retains a strong 
impression of French good breeding. 

Is it by this attractive qualification that the French have 
obtained such sway among the Indians? I think it may be attrib- 
uted with as much probability to their conciliating manner, as to 
superior integrity; though the latter has been the cause generally 
assigned. 

This tenaciousness of national character, under all changes of 
climate and circumstances, of which the French afford many 
remarkable instances, is the more curiou&, as it is not universal 



Morris Birkbeck. 185 

among nations, though the Germans afford, I am told, examples 
equally strong. This country gives favourable opportunities for 
observation on this interesting subject. 

What is it that distinguishes an Englishman from other men? 
or is there any mark of national character which neither time, 
climate, nor circumstance can obliterate? An anglo-American is 
not English, but a German is a German, and a Frenchman French, 
to the fourth, perhaps to the tenth generation. 

The Americans have no central focus of fashion, or local stand- 
ard of politeness; therefore remoteness can never be held as an 
apology for sordid dress or coarse demeanour. They are strangers 
to rural simplicity; the embarrassed air of an awkward rustic, so 
frequent in England, is rarely seen in the United States. This, no 
doubt, is the effect of political equality, the consciousness of which 
accompanies all their intercourse, and may be supposed to operate 
most powerfully on the manners of the lowest class: for high and 
low there are, and will be, even here, and in every society, from 
causes moral and physical, which no political regulations can or 
ought to controul. 

In viewing the Americans, and sketching in a rude manner, as 
I pass along, their striking characteristics, I have seen a deformity 
so general that I cannot help esteeming it national, though I 
know it admits of very many individual exceptions. I have 
written it and then erased it, wishing to pass it by: but it wont 
do: — it is the truth, and to the truth I must adhere. Cleanliness 
in houses, and" too often in person, is neglected to a degree which 
is very revolting to an Englishman. 

America was bred in a cabin: this is not a reproach, for the 
origin is most honourable; but as she has exchanged her hovel of 
unhewn logs for a framed building, and that again for a mansion 
of brick, some of her cabin habits have been unconsciously 
retained. Many have already been quitted: and, one by one, they 
will all be cleared away, as I am told they are now in the cities of 
the eastern states. 

There are, I believe, court-houses, which are also made use of 
as places of worship, in which filth of all kinds has been accumulat- 
ing ever since they were built. What reverence can be felt for the 
majesty of religion, or of the laws, in such sites of abomination? 
The people who are content to assemble in them can scarcely 
respect each other. — Here is a bad public example. It is said, 
that to clean these places is the office of no one: but why is no 



186 Early Travels in Indiana. 

person appointed? Might it not be inferred that a disregard to 
the decencies of life prevails through such a community? 

July 19. We are at Princeton, in a log tavern, where neat- 
ness is as well observed as at many taverns in the city of Bath, or 
any city. The town will soon be three years old; the people belong 
to old America in dress and manners, and would not disgrace old 
England in the general decorum of their deportment. 

But I lament here, as every where, the small acocunt that is 
had of time. Subsistence is secured so easily, and liberal pur- 
suits being yet too rare to operate as a general stimulus to exer- 
tion, life is whiled away in a painful state of yawning lassitude. 

July 20. The object of our pursuit, like the visions of fancy, 
has hitherto seemed to recede from our approach: we are, how- 
ever, at length, arrived at the point where reality is likely to reward 
our labours. 

Twenty or thirty miles west of this place, in the Illinois terri- 
tory, is a large country where settlements are just now beginning, 
and where there is abundant choice of unentered lands of a descrip- 
tion which will satisfy our wishes, if the statements of travellers 
and surveyors can be relied on, after great abatements. 

This is a critical season of the year, and we feel some anxiety 
for the health of our party, consisting of ten individuals. July 
and the two succeeding months are trying to the constitutions of 
new comers, and this danger must be incurred by us; we hope, 
however, under circumstances of great mitigation. In the first 
place, the country is at present free from sickness, and the floods 
were too early in the spring to occasion any apprehensions of an 
unhealthy autumn to the inhabitants. In the next place, we 
have an opportunity of choice of situation for our temporary 
sojourn. Unfortunately this opportunity of choice is limited by 
the scarcity of houses, and the indifference evinced by settlers to 
the important object of health in the fixing their own habitations. 
The vicinity of rivers, from the advantages of navigation and 
machinery, as well as the fertility of soil, have generally sus- 
pended a proper solicitude about health. 

Prince Town affords a situation for a temporary abode more 
encouraging than any place we have before visited in this neigh- 
bourhood; it stands on an elevated spot, in an uneven or rolling 
country, ten miles from the Wabash and two from the navigable 
stream of the Patok: but the country is very rich, and the timber 
vast in bulk and height, so that though healthy at present to its 
inhabitants, they can hardly encourage us with the hope of escap- 



Morris Birkbeck. 187 

ing the seasoning to which they say all new comers are subject. 
There is a very convenient house to be let for nine months, for 
which we are in treaty. This will accommodate us until our own 
be prepared for our reception in the spring, and may be rented, 
with a garden well stocked, for about £20. I think we shall engage 
it, and, should a sickly season come on, recede for a time into the 
high country, about a hundred miles back, returning here to win- 
ter when the danger is past. 

As to travelling in the backwoods of America I think there is 
none so agreeable, after you have used yourself to repose in your 
own pallet, either on the floor of a cabin or under the canopy of 
the woods, with an umbrella over your head and a noble fire at 
your feet; you will then escape the only serious nuisance of Ameri- 
can travelling, viz. hot rooms and swarming beds, exceeding 
instead of repairing the fatigues of the day. Some difficulties 
occur from ferries, awkward fords, and rude bridges, with occa- 
sional swamps; but such is the sagacity and surefootedness of the 
horses that accidents happen very rarely. 

July 21. This is an efficient government. It seems that some 
irregularities exist, or are suspected in the proceedings of cer- 
tain of the offices which are established for the sale of public 
lands. Whilst we were at Vincennes, a confidential individual from 
the federa'l city made his appearance at the land office there, with 
authority to inspect and examine on the spot. Last night the 
same gentleman lodged here, on his way to the land office of 
Shawnee Town, at which we propose to make our entries, where he 
is equally unexpected as he had been at Vincennes, and where his 
visit is somewhat mal-a-propos as to our convenience. One of the 
efficient officers, the register, had been left by us sick about seventy 
miles from Cincinnati; and the other, the receiver, passed this 
place for Vincennes yesterday, and fixed to return on Sunday, 
in order to proceed with me through the woods on Monday, on 
an exploring expedition to the Illinois. The republican delegate 
informed me immediately on his arrival, that he had left an abso- 
lute injunction for the instant return of the receiver to his office, 
expressing regret at deranging my plans, at the same time mak- 
ing ample amends by his own arrangement for my accommodation. 

The effect produced at Vincennes under my observation, and 
the decided manner of this gentleman, convince me that this mode 
of treatment is fully as effectual as that by "motion for the pro- 
duction of papers and committees for their examination," by 



188 Early Travels in Indiana. 

which deliberate procedure the inconvenience of suprize is politely 
obviated. 

July 23. The small-pox is likely to be excluded from this 
state, vaccination being very generally adopted, and inoculation 
for the small-pox prohibited altogether, — not by law, but by com- 
mon consent. If it should be known that an individual had under- 
gone the operation, the inhabitants would compel him to with- 
draw entirely from society. If he lived in a town, he must absent 
himself, or he would be driven off. 

Mental derangement is nearly unknown in these new coun- 
tries. There is no instance of insanity at present in this State, 
which probably now contains 100.000 inhabitants. A middle- 
aged man, of liberal attainments and observation, who has lived 
much of his life in Kentucky, and has travelled a good deal over 
the western country, remarked, as an incident of extraordinary 
occurrence, that he once knew a lady afflicted with this malady. 

The simple maxim, that a man has a right to do any thing but 
injure his neighbour, is very broadly adopted into the practical 
as well as political code of this country. 

A good citizen is the common designation of respect; when a 
man speaks of his neighbour as a virtuous man — "he is a very 
good citizen." 

Drunkenness is rare, and quarrelling rare in proportion. Per- 
sonal resistance to personal aggression, or designed affront, holds 
a high place in the class of duties with the citizen of Indiana. 

It seems that the Baptists (who are the prevailing sect in this 
country,) by their religious tenets, would restrain this sum- 
mary mode of redressing injuries among the brethren of their 
church: a respectable but knotty member of that community was 
lately arraigned before their spiritual tribunal for supporting 
heterodox opinions on this subject. After hearing the arguments 
derived from the texts of scripture, which favour the doctrine 
of non-resistance, he rose, and with energy of action suited to his 
words, declared that he should not wish to live longer than he had 
the right to knock down the man who told him he lied. 

July 2 ^ Regretting, as I must, my perpetual separation 
from many with thorn I was in habits of agreeable intercourse in 
old England, I am much at my ease on the score of society. We 
shall possess this one thing needful, which it was supposed the 
wilderness could not supply, in the families of our own establish- 
ment, and a circle of citizen neighbours, such as this little town 
affords already. There prevails so much good sense and useful 



Morris Birkbeck. 189 

knowledge, joined to a genuine warmth of friendly feeling, a dis- 
position to promote the happiness of each other, that the man who 
is lonely among them is not formed for society. Such are the 
citizens of these new states, and my unaffected and well considered 
wish is to spend among them the remainder of my days. 

The social compact here is not the confederacy of a few to 
reduce the many into subjection; but is, indeed and in truth, 
among these simple republicans, a combination of talents, moral 
and physical, by which the good of all is promoted in perfect 
accordance with individual interest. It is in fact a better, because 
a more simple state than was ever pourtrayed by an Utopian 
theorist. 

But the people, like their fellow men, have their irregular and 
rude passions, and their gross propensities and follies, suited to 
their condition, as weeds to a particular soil; so that this, after all, 
is the real world, and no poetical Arcadia. 

One agreeable fact, characteristic of these young associations, 
presses more and more upon my attention: — there is a great 
amount of social feeling, much real society in new countries, com- 
pared with the number of inhabitants. Their importance to each 
other on many interesting occasions creates kind sentiments. 
They have fellow-feeling in hope and fear, in difficulty and suc- 
cess, and they make ten-fold more of each other than the crowded 
inhabitants of populous countries. 

July 25. Harmony. Yesterday we explored the country 
from this place to the Ohio, about eighteen miles, and returned 
to-day by a different route. There is a great breadth of valuable 
land vacant; not the extremely rich river-bottom land, but close 
cool sand of excellent quality. It is, however, not so well watered, 
nor so much varied in surface as is desirable; and we are so taken 
with the prairies we have seen, and with the accounts we have 
heard of those before us in the Illinois, that no "timbered" land 
can satisfy our present views. 

We lodged last night in a cabin at a very new town, called 
Mount Vernon, on the banks of the Ohio. Here we found the 
people of a cast confirming my aversion to a settlement in the im- 
mediate vicinity of a large navigable river. Every hamlet is 
demoralized, and every plantation is liable to outrage within a 
short distance of such a thoroughfare. 

Yet the view of-that noble expanse was like the opening of 
bright day upon the gloom of night, to us who had been so long 
buried in deep forests. It is a feeling of confinement which begins 



190 Early Travels in Indiana. 

to damp the spirits, from this complete exclusion of distant objects. 
To travel day after day among trees of a hundred feet high, with- 
out a glimpse of the surrounding country, is oppressive to a degree 
which those cannot conceive who have not experienced it; and it 
must depress the spirits of the solitary settler to pass years in this 
state. His visible horizon extends no farther than the tops of the 
trees which bound his plantation — perhaps, five hundred yards. 
Upwards he sees the sun, and sky, and stars; but around him an 
eternal forest, from which he can never hope to emerge : — not so in 
a thickly settled district; he cannot there enjoy any freedom of 
prospect, yet there is variety, and some scope for the imprisoned 
vision. In a hilly country a little more range of view may occasion- 
ally be obtained ; and a river is a stream of light as well as of water, 
which feasts the eye with a delight inconceivable to the inhab- 
itants of open countries. 

Under these impressions a prairie country increases in attrac- 
tion; and to-morrow we shall commence a round in the Illinois, 
which we hope will enable us to take some steps towards our final 
establishment. 

July 26. Left Harmony after breakfast, and crossing the 
Wabash at the ferry, three miles below, we proceeded to the Big- 
Prairie, where, to our astonishment, we beheld a fertile plain of 
grass and arable, and some thousand acres covered with corn, 
more luxuriant than any we had before seen. The scene reminded 
us of some open well cultivated vale in Europe, surrounded by 
wooded uplands; and forgetting that we were, in fact, on the very 
frontiers, beyond which few settlers had penetrated, we were 
transported in idea to the fully peopled regions we had left so far 
behind us. 



From The Emigrants Guide to the western and southwestern 
states and territories, by William Darby [1818], 
pp. 213-217. 

Darby, William. 

Following our second war with England, there was a great rush of emi- 
grants into the western and southwestern territories of the United States. 
This created quite a widespread demand for an emigrant's guide; and among 
those who first supplied the desired information was Mr. William Darby. 
He had been one of the surveyors in adjusting the Louisiana boundary, was 
familiar with the French and Spanish land claims, and perhaps was better 
qualified than any one else to publish a guide. His work appeared in 1817, 
and accompanied by maps, shows all the available roads, streams and routes 
to be followed by the emigrants. 

THE STATE OF INDIANA, has the Illinois territory west, 
the state of Kentucky southeast, the state of Ohio, east, and the 
Michigan territory, and lake Michigan and the Northwest terri- 
tory, north. 

Extent, population, rivers, productions. This state covers an 
area of 36,640 square miles, equal to 23,449,600 American acres. 
More than one half of this surface remains yet in possession of the 
Indians. The southern and much most valuable part of the state 
is reclaimed, and is settling with emigrants from the northern and 
eastern states with great rapidity. The following statistical table 
exhibits the subdivisions of this state, and the population in 1810. 
This can afford but very defective document to give a correct idea 
of the present state of the country. There is no doubt but that the 
number of inhabitants have increased to near one hundred thou- 
sand at the present time. 

STATISTICAL TABLE OF INDIANA. 

Counties. Population Chief Towns 

1810. 

Clark 5,760 Jeffersonville. 

Dearborn 7,310 Lawrenceburg. 

Harris6n 3,695 CORYDON. 

Jefferson 

Knox 7,965 Vincennes. 



24,610 

Since the last census of 1810, the new counties of Washington, 
Switzerland, Jefferson, Wayne, Gibson, Posey, and Warwick, 

(191) 



192 Early Travels in Indiana. 

have been formed. The distributive population of the state of 
Indiana, at this time, as well as the aggregate amount, must differ 
essentially from the relative position and numbers found seven 
years past. 

The rivers of the state of Indiana, are, Ohio, Wabash, Illinois, 
and Maumee. 

Ohio river washes the state from the mouth of the Great 
Miami, to that of the Wabash, a distance, following the bends of 
the stream of three hundred and sixty-five miles. It is a curious 
fact, that in this long course, no stream, above the size of a large 
creek, falls into the Ohio from Indiana; White river branch of 
Wabash, having its head-streams within thirty miles of the bank 
of Ohio. There are few countries in the world can much exceed 
this part of the banks of the Ohio. The lands are varied, a con- 
siderable portion of the first quality, and but little that can be 
really considered unproductive. The settlements are in such quick 
progress as to render a description only necessarily correct for 
the moment. 

Wabash river is strictly the principal stream of Indiana, from 
the surface of which it draws the far greater part of its waters. 
The head branches of Wabash is in the Indian country, of course 
very imperfectly explored. This river rises with 4he Maumee 
near Fort Wayne, and like the Illinois, flows to the west through 
Indiana, unto almost the west border of the state, where the river 
gradually curves to S. W. by S., which course it maintains to its 
junction with the Ohio. The entire length of the Wabash exceeds 
three hundred miles; it is a fine stream, without falls or extraor- 
dinary rapids. It was through the channel of the Wabash 
that the French of Canada first discovered the Ohio, to which they 
gave the name of Belle Riviere, or beautiful river, but considered 
the Wabash the main branch, and gave the united rivers its name. 
In many old maps of North America, the Ohio below the junction 
of the two streams, is called Wabash. The Tennessee was then 
very imperfectly known, and considered at one-fourth the size it 
was found to possess by subsequent discovery. 

White River, the eastern branch of Wabash, is itself a stream of 
considerable importance, draining the heart, and far the finest 
part of the state of Indiana. About forty miles above its junction 
with the Wabash, White river divides into the north and south 
branches. North branch rises in the Indian country by a number 
of creeks, which, uniting near the Indian boundary line; forms a 
fine navigable river of about 180 miles in length; its course nearly 



William Darby. 193 

S. W. South branch rises in the same ridges with the White 
Water branch of the Great Miami; its course S. W. by W. 150 
miles. Upon this latter river many of the most flourishing settle- 
ments in the state have been formed. The country it waters is 
amongst the most agreeable, healthy, and fertile in the Ohio 
valley. 

Illinois river has its source in Indiana, but has been noticed 
when treating of the Illinois territory. 

Maumee rises in fact in the state of Ohio, near Fort Loramie, 
but flowing N. W. enters the state of Indiana, turns west, encir- 
cles Fort Wayne, and turning N. E. again enters the state of Ohio, 
through which it flows to the place of its egress into Lake Erie. 

The southern extremity of Lake Michigan penetrates the state 
of Indiana, and at or near its extreme south elongation, receives 
the Calumet, and not far north of its S. E. extension, the small 
river St. Joseph enters from the state of Indiana, but enters the 
Michigan lake in the Michigan territory. 

The country is here but very imperfectly known; even the 
latitude of the southern extremity of Lake Michigan remains 
uncertain. When the French possessed Canada and Louisiana, 
their traders constantly passed by Chicago into Illinois, and by 
the Maumee into the Wabash, in their voyages. These passages 
are now again becoming frequented, and will, within the lapse of a 
few years, present the active transport of commercial wealth, 
and the daily intercourse of civilized men. 

It may be doubted whether any state of the United States, all 
things duly considered, can present more advantages than Indiana. 
Intersected or bounded in all directions by navigable rivers or 
lakes, enjoying a temperate climate, and an immense variety of 
soil. Near two-thirds of its territorial surface is yet in the hands 
of the Indians, a temporary evil, that a short time will remedy. 
When all the extent comprised within the legal limits of this state 
are brought into a state of improvement, with one extremity upon 
the Ohio river, and the opposite upon Lake Michigan, with inter- 
secting navigable streams, Indiana will be the real link that will 
unite the southern and northern parts of the United States. The 
connexion between the Canadian lakes and the Ohio and Missis- 
sippi rivers, is by no route so direct as through Michigan and 
Wabash, and by Lake Erie, Maumee and Wabash. The route by 
Lake Michigan and the Illinois river into the Mississippi is more 
circuitous than by that of the Wabash into either Lakes Michigan 
or Erie, and the route through Illinois has another irremediable 



194 Early Travels in Indiana. 

disadvantage, that of being in a more northern latitude than the 
Wabash. 

• When the rivers are in a state of flood, loaded boats of consid- 
erable size pass from the head waters of Wabash into St. Mary 
river, the western branch of the Maumee; the same facility of pass- 
age exists between Maumee; the Chicago into the Illinois river.* 
These facts prove two things: first, the almost perfect. level of the 
country, and secondly, the great ease with which canals can be 
formed, and the very limited expense of their construction. 

In the present state of population, the communication by the 
Wabash and Miami of the Lakes into Lake Erie, must produce 
advantages of greatly more extensive benefit, than by Lake Mich- 
igan and Illinois river. Many years must elapse before either is 
opened. The country is yet wilderness, and the right of soil in 
the aboriginal inhabitants. 

Like Illinois territory, the state of Indiana has no mountains; 
the latter is however more hilly than the former, particularly 
towards the Ohio river. 

The southeastern extremity of Indiana, between White and 
Ohio rivers, is very broken. A ridge of hills commences above the 
junction of the Wabash and Ohio, which extending in a N. E. 
direction through Indiana, Ohio, Pennsylvania, is finally lost in 
the state of New- York. This ridge in Indiana separates the waters 
of Wabash from those of Ohio river; and in Ohio, Pennsylvania, 
and New- York, forms the demarkation between the streams 
which flow into the Canadian lakes from those which discharge 
their waters into the Ohio. No part of this ridge is very elevated ; 
its component parts are limestone and schistose sandstone. It is 
barren of minerals except iron and coal. 

Towns — Vilages — -Schools. — Corydon, on the road from Louis- 
ville to Vincennes, is now the seat of government. This town is 
recent, but rapidly improving. The number of its houses or inhab- 
itants we are unable to state, and it would not, if now accurately 
given, remain so one year. 

Vincennes, upon the left bank of the Wabash, is the oldest and 
the largest town in the state; having been built by the French from 
Canada; most of the inhabitants are of French extraction. The 
site of the town is level, and when in its natural state, was an exten- 
sive prairie. The lands are fertile in a high degree. In a com- 
mercial point of view, the position of this town is very advanta- 
geous, and must advance rapidly. Standing upon the limit of two 

*See Drake's Cincinnati, page 222 and 223. Volney, Paris edition, Vol. I. page 29. 



William Darby. 195 

territorial divisions, Vincennes cannot ever again become the seat 
of government, a loss more than compensated by a favourable 
situation for agriculture, and the transport of produce to New- 
Orleans, Pittsburg, and indeed to the entire western and southern 
parts of the United States. 

Blackford, Harmony, Madison, Lawrenceburg, and Brook- 
ville, are all towns of this state. Being of recent formation, they 
are mostly small, and have nothing very worthy of notice to distin- 
guish them from each other. 

No good topographical or statistical account having been yet 
published upon this state, the data are not abundant respecting 
its towns or other artificial improvements. 

The political institutions of this new state are honourable in a 
high degree to the framers; the constitution of the state provides 
every restraint against the encroachments of power, and the 
licentiousness of freedom, that human wisdom can perhaps fore- 
see. Slavery is banished from the state, or rather it never was 
received within its borders. The inhabitants at this moment enjoy 
all that liberty, industry, and impartial administration of justice 
can bestow. 

Colleges and schools can scarce be considered to exist as public 
institutions ; private schools are numerous, and increasing with the 
population. 

Productions— Staples. — Flour may be considered the prin- 
cipal artificial production and staple. Much of the land is well 
calculated to produce wheat. Mill streams abound. Rye is 
also extensively cultivated, and used as bread grain, to feed horses, 
and to supply the distillers. Maize is, next to wheat, the most val- 
uable crop cultivated in Indiana. The fertile alluvion upon the 
rivers and many parts of the prairies are admirably adapted to the 
production of this excellent vegetable. The quantity made from 
an acre of land cannot be determined with any precision; but the 
production is generally abundant. In all the new settlements in 
the Ohio and Mississippi valley, maize is the crop first resorted to 
for providing subsistence, and we believe it to be the only grain 
that in many places would have rendered settlement possible. 
The rapidity of its growth and the easy application of its farina to 
use, will always secure to maize a rank amongst the most precious 
vegetables yet cultivated by mankind. 

Oats, barley, and buckwheat, are also reared; the former in 
great abundance as food for horses. Potatoes (Irish potatoes) 
are cultivated in plenty, as is a great variety of pulse. Pumpions, 



196 Early Travels in Indiana. 

squashes, melons, and cucumbers are cultivated and may be pro- 
duced in any assignable quantity. 

In no country could artificial meadow be made to mOre advan- 
tage. This useful part of agriculture is almost always neglected in 
our new settlements, and only becomes an object of attention 
when the natural range is exhausted. The great body of the 
emigrants coming from places where artificial meadows are in 
use, their immense benefits are not to be learned by all. 

For domestic consumption and exportation, are made large 
quantities of beef, pork, butter, lard, bacon, leather, whiskey, and 
peach brandy. With but little exception, Natchez and New 
Orleans are the outlets of the surplus produce of Indiana. A few 
articles are occasionally sent to Pittsburgh, but that commerce, 
never extensive, is on the decline. The attention of the inhab- 
itants is drawn towards the natural channel, through which their 
wealth must circulate. Sugar, coffee, wines, and foreign ardent 
spirits, are brought from New Orleans, but of the former neces- 
sary, considerable quantity is made in the country from the sap 
of the sugar maple tree. 

Dry goods, hardware, ironmongery, paper, and books, are 
mostly imported by the route of Pittsburgh. Some of all those 
articles, the two latter perhaps excepted, are also imported from 
New Orleans. Saddles, bridles, hats, boots, and shoes, are manu- 
factured, in great part, in the state. This indeed is a trait that 
marks the whole western states, that the latter indispensable art- 
icles of domestic consumption are generally to be found at every 
new settlement, for prices not greatly advanced above that of the 
same objects in large commercial cities on the Atlantic coast. 

The same observations may be made respecting cabinet, and 
all other kinds of household furniture. Tables, chairs, and bed- 
steads, are made in all the large towns in the valleys of Ohio and 
Mississippi, with all the requisite qualities of elegance and strength. 

Except in Lexington, Kentucky, and Pittsburg, book print- 
ing is not yet done to any considerable extent west of the Ale- 
ghany. In these two latter places and in Cincinnati, Nashville, 
and some other places, book stores have been established to con- 
siderable extent, but a well assorted library could not be formed in 
any, or perhaps all those towns. Professional men, and indeed all 
men who are emigrating to the west, ought to carry with them such 
books as they may heed. It is not without more difficulty than is 
commonly believed to exist, that a good selection of books can be 
made even in New- York or Philadelphia, much less in towns upon 
the Ohio or Mississippi waters. 



From Geographical sketches on the western country designed 
for Emigrants and settlers, by E. Dana [1819], pp. 
48-49, 107-32. 

Dana, Edmund. 

Mr. Dana spent six years among the native Indians living in the region 
of the Great Lakes. His knowledge gained there won for him considerable 
reputation as a guide, and by 1816 he had been employed bv more than 
thirteen hundred persons to select for them tracts of land on which they 
desired to make permanent settlements. 

The knowledge acquired while performing this work and his personal 
observations qualified him to speak with some authority on many phases 
of the northwest country. His sketches were published in 1817. 

In the state of Indiana, not far from Big Blue river, is a spa- 
cious cave, more than two miles in extent. The entrance is in the 
side of an elevated hill. Large quantities of Epsom salt, and salt 
petre, are found in this cave. Here numerous calcareous exuda- 
tions are displayed in a variety of shapes, resembling artificial 
carvings. Bats inhabiting this cave are numerous, and it is neces- 
sary for an adventurer who would explore it, to preserve his torch 
or candle from extinguishment by those creatures, with a lantern. 
Within the tract called the barrens, expanding in divers directions 
several miles, there are various other large caves; on the bot- 
toms of some of which flow streams of water, large enough to drive 
mills. 

There is in the county of Orange, in this state, a large stream, 
called Lost river; — after flowing several miles on the surface, the 
whole current suddenly sinks into the earth, and is never seen or 
heard of more. Near a creek that joins the Ohio about a mile 
west of New-Albany, is a spring, so strongly impregnated with 
sulphurated hydrogen gas, as to produce combustion, by placing 
a torch or lighted candle a little above the water. About six miles 
northwest of Corydon, near the Big Blue river, just above the 
base of an elevated hill, bursts from amidst the rocks, a cold spring, 
which in the dryest seasons is copious enough to drive two pair of 
stones and a saw, in an elegant stone mill, built just by its mouth. 
There are many other springs of this description, cold as any well 
water, on which profitable mills are built, within this state. 

(197) 



198 Eaely Travels in Indiana. 



INDIANA. 



Indiana was admitted into the federal union, as a state, in the 
year 1816. It is bounded by the state of Illinois on the west, by 
a line on the Wabash from its mouth to 40 miles above Vincennes, 
and thence on a meridian line so far north as to include the south- 
ern extremity of lake Michigan 10 miles in depth, by a* bound- 
ary line on the north drawn due east : east by the state of Ohio, by 
a meridian line, running from the mouth of the Big Miami : on the 
south by the Ohio river. Length from north to south, 284 miles; 
breadth from east to west 155; contains about 37,000 square miles; 
lays between 37° 45' and 41° 52' north latitude, and 7° 40' and 10° 
west longitude. 

Face of the Country, Soil, &c. — There are in Indiana no con- 
siderable heights of land, that (strictly speaking) can properly be 
denominated mountains. The river hills from 100 to 200 feet 
high, diverging from 30 to 600 rods from the Ohio, according to 
the width of the alluvial margin, commence within two miles east 
of the Great Miami, and extend in the direction of the river Ohio, 
within about twelve miles above the Falls, where they gradually 
merge in a valley, which extends about 25 miles below; where the 
same range of hills reappears, and extends in the course of the 
river, as it runs, from 60 to 70 miles below, where the hills dis- 
appear, and a region sometimes level, and sometimes waving, 
commences, which is expanded southwestwardly to the Wabash, 
and northwestwardly and northeastwardly, with rare exceptions, 
to the great western lakes. 

On the borders of most of the streams are strips of rich bottom, 
and there are also praira lands, from one to five miles wide. 
Between the Wabash and lake Michigan, the country is generally 
level, abounding alternately with prairas and woodland, and 
occasionally large marshes, and several small lakes. Some of the 
prairas between fort Harrison and fort Meigs, are covered with 
red top and fowl meadow grasses. 

Between the Ohio and White river, a range of knobs forms the 
high table lands that divide the head waters of some of the trib- 
utaries to the Ohio from those of the White river, commencing 
about 25 miles north from the Ohio, and 20 miles eastwardly from 
Salem, and pursuing a course southwestwardly, reaches that river 
12 or 13 miles below the Falls, where they terminate. Most of this 
region is thickly covered with large forest trees. 

North of the Wabash, between Tippecanoe and Ouitanon, a 



Edmund Dana. 199 

French settlement, the banks of the streams are high, abrupt and 
broken, and the lands, except the prairas, covered with timber. 
Between the Plein and the Theakiki, (which are the head branches 
of the Illinois) the country is flat and wet, interspersed with prairas 
of an inferior soil. In this region, the swamps seem to furnish the 
head streams of rivers, and the lands appear to be too low and wet 
for cultivation. 

There are two kinds of prairas, the river and the upland; the 
former are destitute of timber, and are said to exhibit vestiges of 
former cultivation; the latter are from 30 to 100 feet more ele- 
vated, and are more numerous and extensive. Some of them are 
not larger than a common field, others extending farther than the 
eye can reach. They are usually interspersed with some clumps of 
trees, and bounded by heavy timbered forests. In spring and sum- 
mer, they are covered with a luxuriant growth of grass and fra- 
grant flowers, from five to eight feet high. The soil of these plains 
is often as deep and fertile as the best bottoms. The prairas near 
the Wabash are remarkably rich, and almost inexhaustible by 
crops. By the digging of wells, the vegetable soil has been found 
22 feet deep, bedded on white sand; their common depth is from 
two to five feet. 

Among the lands purchased of the Indians in 1818, are 8,500,- 
000 acres within the state of Indiana. This new purchase is 
bounded on the south by a line drawn 18 miles above fort Harrison, 
at the Wabash, on the old Indian boundary — thence along on the 
east side of the Wabash to the forks of White river, and from 
thence to fort Wayne. 

The acquisition of this new purchase, which is now surveying, 
and will soon be exposed for sale, will greatly contribute to increase 
the population and promote the prosperity of the state of Indiana. 

The quality of the soil, for so large a tract in a body, will bear 
a comparison to any, perhaps, within the United States. Indeed, 
it has been esteemed, by intelligent men, who have often traversed 
it, in all directions, in point of rural scenery, a copious supply of 
pure water, fertility of soil and security to health, equal to any 
part of the western country. The greater part is covered with a 
beautiful growth of forest trees, not unlike those common to bot- 
toms and uplands of the first quality in the state of Ohio; except on 
considerable portions of fine prairas, which in the centre and to the 
northwest in various places, are spread out extensively. The sur- 
face in this part of the tract is delightfully variegated by gentle 
undulations. 



200 Early Travels in Indiana. 

At the northeast, although the lands will make valuable planta- 
tions, the surface over a considerable part, approaches, too near, 
perhaps, a perfect champaign to embrace all the conveniences of 
the best agricultural situations. The soil is, however, strong and 
durable, well adpated to wheat and meadow grasses. The pre- 
vailing growth here is beech, although there be considerable sugar 
maple and other forest trees that indicate a rich soil. The infre- 
quency of running streams, and the level surface in the north- 
east, cause a scarcity of good mill seats. 

The lands bordering on the waters of the White river and its 
tributary streams are considered among those of the best quality, 
excepting a strip of about 30 miles by 15, laying near the west 
branch, which being low, marshy, and occasionally overflowed, is 
unfavorable to health. Much of this tract, not excepted, is de- 
lightfully situated, and the surface consisting of gentle undula- 
tions, supplied with good water, and variegated with numerous 
small, rich, dry prairas. 

An extensive tract, bordering on the waters of the Tippacanoe 
and the two Vermillion and Eel rivers, are lands of superior qual- 
ity, and not excelled for fertility by any in the state. The north- 
ern position of these lands, will afford a climate favorable to the 
health of emigrants not habituated to southern latitudes. 

The productions of Indiana in corn, wheat, rye, barley, oats, 
beans, peas, Irish, sweet potatoes, and garden vegetables of every 
description, are abundant. In some parts of the state, where the 
soil consists of a sandy loam, certain species of the wine grape, 
particularly the grape of Good Hope, and cotton, have flourished. 
It is presumed that upland rice would succeed well in this soil, as it 
has been known to flourish within the state of Kentucky, in the 
same latitude. Farming is conducted on a large scale in the 
Wabash country for several miles around Vincennes and fort 
Harrison, where the soil is exceedingly productive. Within this 
region, single farmers have raised, in one year, from 4,000 to 10,000 
bushels of corn, and various kinds of small grain. The soil in these 
places is of a deep, rich, dark gray, sandy loam, which is ploughed 
easily, and resists the effects of drought and drenching rains. It 
has proved so inexhaustible by cropping without manure, that the 
same corn fields have been planted for more than half a century in 
constant succession without a perceivable diminution of crops. 

The population of Indiana has, perhaps, experienced a more 
rapid increase than any state in the union. At the census in 1810, 
it contained only 24,520 inhabitants, exclusive of Indians. 



Edmund Dana. 201 

In the territorial census of 1815, the number returned to Con- 
gress, as a prerequisite to the formation of a state, was 67,784. At 
this period August, 1819, it is confidently believed, that 165,000 
would not be an exaggerated estimate. Since the census of 1815, 
the number of counties have more than doubled, although until 
the late purchase in 1818, nearly two-thirds of the extent of terri- 
tory was in the possession of the Indians. 

The several counties to which the number of inhabitants is not 
annexed, have been formed since 1815 — the other counties show, 
in the second column, the number of inhabitants they respec- 
tively contained, at that time — the third column presents the 
names of the towns in which are the seats of justice for the coun- 
ties to which they are annexed. 

Counties. Population. Chief Towns. 

Clark 7 ,000 Charleston. 

Crawford Mount Sterling. 

Dearborn 4,426 Lawrenceburgh. 

Davies Washington. 

Dubois 

Franklin 7,970 Brookville. 

Fayette Connersville. 

Floyd New-Albany. 

Gibson 5 , 330 Princeton. 

Harrison 6 , 769 Corydon. 

Jackson Brownstown. 

Jefferson 4,093 Madison. 

Jennings Vernon. 

Knox 6 , 800 Vincennes. 

Lawrence Palestine. 

Monroe 

Orange Paoli. 

Perry 3,000 Franklin. 

Posey 3,000 Harmony. 

Randolph 

Ripley Versailles. 

Spencer Rockport. 

Sullivan Merom. 

Switzerland 3,500 Vevay. 

Vandeburgh Evansville. 

Warwick 6 , 606 Boonsborough. 

Washington 3,000 Salem. 

Wayne 6,290 Centreville. 

Of the chief towns in this state, the progress of improvements 
and population, render an adequate description very difficult. 
We will, however, endeavour to give such sketches as will present 



202 Early Travels in Indiana. 

to enquirers a tolerable view of the towns most considerable, and 
of the country surrounding them. 

Salisbury, formerly the county seat of Wayne, situated on a 
head branch of Whitewater river, is but two miles eastwardly of 
Centreville, the latter place consisting of a few cabbins in the 
woods, where the courts are now holden. Concerning the seat of 
justice for this county, a great interest has been excited among the 
citizens; and on application to the legislature, commissioners 
have been appointed to designate the spot for a permanent estab- 
lishment. Two expensive brick court houses, have already been 
erected, one at Salisbury, and the other at Centreville, not more 
than two miles apart. The land surrounding Salisbury and Cen- 
treville, and indeed, the whole county of Wayne, is one of the most 
valuable tracts for cultivation in the state. The surface in some 
parts is too flat and wet, but mostly gently waving, the soil strong 
and durable, covered with stately forest trees, finely watered by 
the head branches of the Whitewater, which furnishes divers valu- 
able mill seats. Many of the settlers are from North Carolina, 
whose improvements have formed large and valuable plantations. 

Brookville, the county seat of Franklin, stands upon a narrow 
elevated plain, in the forks of Whitewater. A considerable part of 
the town, however, is built on the margin of the East Fork, 65 
or 70 feet lower than the upper bottom. The situation is pleasant 
and romantic, exhibiting the variegated prospect of the meander- 
ings of the streams, and of hills topped with forest trees on either 
side, cultivated farms and water mills. This town, which did not 
contain 20 dwelling houses at the close of the late war, now, 
(1819) exceeds the number of one hundred, besides several stores, 
mechanic shops, &c. Within the limits of the town are two grist 
and two saw mills, three fulling mills, and three carding machines. 
There are a neat brick court house, a jail, and a market house. 
Distance from Cincinnati, north west, 42 miles. The county of 
Franklin contains excellent bottom lands on the margin of the 
two Whitewater forks; and the uplands are generally covered with 
a good soil, and well timbered. 

Lawrenceburgh, the seat of justice for the county of Dearborn, 
stands on the west bank of the Ohio, 23 miles from Cincinnati, and 
two below the mouth of the Great Miami. The situation of this 
town is very pleasant, being on a spacious plain, which commands 
a view of the river, surrounded by extensve rich bottom lands. 
The spot occupied by the town, is the nearest convenient site on 
the Ohio west of the Miami. But it is subject to inundation by 



Edmund Dana. 203 

extraordinary freshets; the largest of which has covered Main, 
the highest street, four feet deep. But this street is now raised 
above the highest freshets, and the principal buildings are ele- 
vated above the street. On an average, the town is flooded not 
more than once in three or four years. — But as the inhabitants are 
familiar with the occurrence, they are prepared : they anchor their 
fences with little trouble, so as to secure them from floating; their 
upper rooms receive the contents of their cellars, their cattle 
and hogs are driven to high grounds; thus prepared they await the 
overflowing and the recession of the waters, as unconcerned as did 
the family of Noah the great deluge. The highest floods rarely 
continue more than eight or ten days. As no stagnant pools 
remain, the flooding of the town is followed by no injury to health, 
and by much less inconvenience to the inhabitants, than can be 
imagined by strangers. The preceding remarks apply only to Old 
Lawrenceburgh; for New-La wrenceburgh, so called, within the 
limits of the same town, about 100 rods from the old settlement, is 
never overflowed. The latter is a handsome site, bounded by 
Tanner's creek on the west, which joins the Ohio a mile below, and 
is navigable to the new town. 

It contains a number of large, elegant houses, built with brick, 
a large grist and saw mill, driven by four oxen, on an inclined 
plane wheel, a spacious cotton factory, driven by the same power, 
besides mechanic shops and other buildings, all erected within two 
years. This site, by itself, which is to be connected with the old 
town by a high street above the flooding waters, is spacious enough 
for a pretty large town. Lawrenceburgh, from its first settlement, 
till within two or three of the last years, has progressed very slowly. 
Nothing could have so long retarded the prosperity of this delight- 
ful situation, which nature seemed to have designed for a centre 
of much business, but the dreadful apprehensions which emigrants 
entertain of the evils of overflowing waters. It is the nearest point 
to the river for an immense tract of interior good land, and yet 
unsettled, in the most convenient outlet for the produce of the 
great Whitewater country, and is the natural place of deposite for 
staple commodities which float down the Big Miami. The evils 
contemplated from occasional overflowing, the old settlers have 
found more imaginary than real. 

There is no place on the banks of the Ohio, perhaps, where bet- 
ter water is found or more perfect health enjoyed than at Law- 
renceburgh. Nor is there any town in the state, we presume, which 
has flourished more within two or three of the last years; many 



204 Early Travels in Indiana. 

neat brick houses and stores have lately been erected, both in the 
old and new town; some of which are nearly as spacious and ele- 
gant as any in the western country. Merchants and mechanics 
of various descriptions have met with encouragement. The town 
has, within 30 months, doubled its population, which, at this time 
(August 1819) may be estimated at about 700. Beside the Big 
Miami and Whitewater, seven considerable streams traverse the 
county of Dearborn, all emptying into the Ohio, within the county, 
which borders on that river not exceeding 17 miles. The most of 
these streams, including the Ohio, have spacious margins of bot- 
tom lands. The face of the country bordering on the Ohio, how- 
ever, for some miles in width, has spread over it many abrupt hills, 
which as well as the vallies, are covered by a deep rich soil. But 
as we recede some distance back from the creeks, the surface be- 
comes sufficiently level. In the northern part of the county 
are large tracts, of which the prevailing growth is oak of divers 
species. These lands, though the appearance be rather forbidding 
to a stranger, prove very productive in wheat, grass and most 
other crops, common to the country. 

There appears a considerable propensity in the people of Dear- 
born county to the formation of towns, there being 12 or 13 already 
laid off. Our limits will permit us to notice some of the principal 
only. 

Harrison is a pleasant little village on the Whitewater, about 14 
miles northeast [south-east] of Lawrenceburgh; the main street 
being the boundary line between the states Indiana and Ohio. It 
would seem from the numerous tumuli and places of ancient sepul- 
ture, that this plain, centuries ago, was covered by the habitations 
of men. — The town which contains a considerable number of neat 
dwelling houses, is surrounded by a tract of excellent land, on 
which are many handsome plantations. Hardensburgh, on the 
west bank of the Great Miami, two miles from its mouth, occupies 
a handsome site, and contains about 50 houses, seven or eight of 
which are decent brick buildings. 

Aurora, at the mouth of Hogan creek, on the west bank of that 
stream, four miles below Lawrenceburgh, and nine above Rising 
Sun, was laid off by 20 proprietors in 1818. About 40 frames, for 
dwelling houses and stores, were erected on donation lots, before 
any of the others were offered for sale. This town has a fine pros- 
pect of the meanderings of the creek and the river; and is accom- 
modated with as good a harbor for boats, as any place between 
Pittsburgh and the Mississippi; a strong eddy from the Ohio 



Edmund Dana. 205 

putting into the creek, which exceeds 15 feet in depth at all stages 
of water. 

Rising Sun, 13 miles below Lawrenceburgh, forms one of the 
most delightful situations on the banks of the Ohio. 

It is surrounded by a spacious tract of rich bottom, and occupies 
a gentle, gradual descent, that commands a complete prospect of 
the river; between which and the front row of houses, is a broad 
street more than 150 rods in length. This town contains more than 
100 houses, and affords employment for several traders, taverns, 
and a number of industrious mechanics. 

Wilmington, a small village, stands on a high hill, about equi- 
distant from the East and West Forks of Hogan. 

Hanover is a little village two miles above the mouth of 
Laughry; the houses are mostly cabbins. 

Hartford, about five or six miles from the Ohio, is a flourish- 
ing village on Laughry creek, containing 50 or 60 houses. 

Vevay, the county seat of Switzerland, situated eight miles 
above the mouth of Kentucky river, on the Ohio, 45 below Cin- 
cinnati, is a pleasant flourishing town, containing 190 houses, a 
decent brick court house, a jail, printing office, a large distillery, 
several taverns and mechanic shops. A branch of the bank of 
Indiana is established here. It was commenced in 1814, within 
the tract granted by the United States, to about 30 Swiss families 
in 1804; who began their settlements, near the place where the 
town now stands, in the following year. This land was obtained 
from government on an extended credit, for the purpose of encour- 
aging the cultivation of the grape vine; in which employment the 
Swiss have been more successful, it is presumed, than any attempt 
on a large scale, within the United States. In 1815, about 100 
hogsheads of wine were produced from all the vineyards; some of 
which belonging to individuals, have singly grown grapes latterly, 
sufficient to make 1,000 gallons of wine. The Madeira and the 
Cape of Good Hope have flourished better than any other species 
which have been tried. The vines of each grow well, but the Cape 
being much less liable to be injured by early frost, is the least pre- 
carious and the most productive. This wine is wholesome, and 
not unpalatable. It is preserved through the summer months 
without distilled spirits, and grows better by age. 

Madison, on the second bottom of the bank % of the Ohio, is 
the county seat of Jefferson. This is one of the most beautiful 
and flourishing towns in the state; was commenced 1811; in Feb- 
ruary, 1819, contained 821 inhabitants, 123 dwelling houses, 



206 Early Travels in Indiana. 

besides stores, mechanic shops, &c. Has a court house and jail, 
and a banking establishment. This town derives an importance 
from its central position, by standing in one of the most northerly 
bends of the Ohio; thereby presenting one of the nearest points of 
Ohio navigation to that extensive body of rich land, at and around 
the Delaware towns, which yet remains uncultivated. The town 
is, except on the river board, surrounded by rugged, high hills, 
which offer a steep and laborious ascent for a loaded team. 

New-Lexington, 16 miles west of Madison, contains about 50 
houses, and is in the vicinity of an extensive tract of good land. 

New-London, 10 miles below Madison, on the Ohio, is formed 
by nature for one of the most pleasant situations on that river; 
presenting a gradual and gentle descent for 150 rods back from 
the river, the position of the ground affording a most excellent 
route for a good road to the back country, and exhibiting from a 
distance, a charming view of the broad expanse of the Ohio. 

Charlestown, the county seat of Clark, is situated two miles 
from the Ohio, 29 miles south of west from Madison, and 14 
miles above the Falls. It is one of the most flourishing and neatly 
built towns in the state; contains about 160 houses, chiefly of 
brick, a handsome court house, and is inhabited by an industrious 
class of citizens. There are numerous plantations around this 
town, consisting of good land, and better cultivated, perhaps, 
than any in the state. This tract is within the grant made by 
the state of Virginia, to the brave soldiers, who, under the cele- 
brated general Clark, in the revolutionary war, by conquering the 
British troops and their savage allies, subjected the western 
country to the jurisdiction of the United States. A large portion 
of the Grant, so called, containing many thousand acres, is 
covered with a heavy growth of beech timber, considerably inter- 
mixed with sugar maple, and divers other species of trees. — The 
soil is very productive in fruit trees, wheat, and English grasses. 

Jeffersonville stands just above the Falls, on the west bank of 
the Ohio. The noise, and the sight of the waters tumbling over the 
precipices below, together with a view of the town of Louisville, 
on the opposite shore, present a scenery at once variegated, roman- 
tic, picturesque and grand. The town is built on the second bot- 
tom, above the highest floods, affording a complete view of the 
river. The non-residence of the proprietors (of whom many are 
minors) of town lots and of the adjacent country, has hitherto 
much checked the prosperity of this delightful spot. Of the build- 
ings, which are not very numerous, some are designed and executed 



Edmund Dana. 207 

in a neat and elegant style, particularly the mansion which was the 
resience of the late Gov. Posey. A land office, a post office and a 
printing office are established in this town. 

A canal is projected, to commence a few rods east of Jefferson- 
ville, at the mouth of a ravine, thence through the back lots of the 
town, terminating at an eddy, at the foot of the rapids, by the 
town of Clarksville. To effect this purpose, the legislature of 
Indiana, in January 1818, incorporated the Jeffersonville Ohio 
Canal Company, with a capital of $1,000,000; and granted them 
permission to raise $100,000 by lottery. In May, 1819, a survey 
and location having been previously made, the excavation was 
commenced, and continues to be prosecuted with spirit, and the 
fairest prospects of success. The extent of this canal will be 2% 
miles; the average depth 45 feet; width at top 100, and at bottom 
50 feet. Except one-fourth of a mile at the upper end, there is a 
bed of rock to be cut through, 10 or 12 feet deep. The charter, 
which expires in 1899, requires that the canal should be completed 
before the end of the year 1824. The perpendicular height in the 
whole extent of the falls being about 23 feet, the canal is expected 
to furnish excellent mill seats, and a water power sufficient to 
drive machinery for very extensive manufacturing establishments. 

In navigating the Ohio, the saving of time, expence, and waste 
of property, by means of a canal, to a great extent above the falls, 
is incalculable. It has been estimated, that Cincinnati alone, for 
several years past, has paid an extraordinary expence for trans- 
porting goods around the falls, exceeding $50,000. The several 
states bordering on the river above, are each interested in the suc- 
cess of this great undertaking, and it is presumed they will liberally 
contribute their aid to perfect it. The territory and population 
to be benefitted by this work, is so extensive, strong hopes have 
been entertained that some adequate provision will be made by the 
general government. Capital cannot, perhaps, at the present day, 
be vested in any public funds that will yield a more produc- 
tive regular income, than in this establishment. 

New- Albany, the seat of justice for Floyd county, is 4V£ miles 
below Jeffersonville, on the bank of the Ohio, on an extensive 
plain of rich bottom lands. From the first settlement of this town, 
its progress was rather slow, until within two or three of the last 
years; since which period it has flourished greatly. The front 
street is more than three quarters of a mile in length; the num- 
ber of houses, of which several are spacious and elegant, are sup- 
posed to exceed 150; a steam grist and saw mill, each of which per- 



208 Early Travels in Indiana. 

form extensive business, are a great advantage to the town and 
surrounding country. A spirit of enterprise and industry seems 
generally to animate the inhabitants, and to exhibit the appear- 
ance of a brisk, business-doing place. Floyd was erected into a 
county in the winter of 1818, out of the counties of Clark and 
Harrison. 

Cory don, the seat of justice for the county of Harrison, is also 
the present capital of the state, the constitution having appointed 
it the seat of legislation until 1825. Distant from New Albany, 
northwest, 21 miles; from the nearest point of the Ohio, about 13 — 
lays between the forks of Indian creek, at their junction — is sur- 
rounded by elevated ground, of gentle ascent — contains 8 or 10 
neat buildings, beside many others which are ordinary; a spacious 
court house of stone, which is occupied by the legislature during 
their session. The supreme court is holden at this place, exclu- 
sively. 

A few miles from the town, north, northeast and northwest, an 
extensive tract of land, called the barrens, commences, and spreads 
out in divers directions, in some points several miles — the sur- 
face commonly undulating — occasionally are deep sink holes, 
resembling half-filled wells — the growth is scattering, small oak 
shrubs, with here and there small clumps of oak trees, of a moder- 
ate size; a coarse, short, wild grass, grateful to cattle and sheep, 
overspreads the ground; the soil in some parts thin and sterile, but 
generally productive of good crops of corn, small grain, clover and 
timothy. The region of these barrens is remarkable for caverns, 
some of which are spacious, from five to fifty feet in height from 
the flooring; the bottom, roof and walls of flat limestone — the lat- 
ter often as perpendicular as the walls of a room. It is not uncom- 
mon to find streams large enough to drive a mill briskly, pouring 
their waters over the bottoms of these caves. Small oaks, of a 
tolerable height, as thinly scattered as the apple trees in an orchard, 
usually commence at the termination of the barrens, and extend 
for a good distance, sometimes for the space of two or three miles. 
This description, it is conceived, will apply to most of the barrens 
in the state. 

After the constitutional term expires, the seat of government 
will be removed from Corydon into the interior, probably on or 
near the West Fork of Whiteriver, within the late purchase — Con- 
gress having granted to the state four square miles, for a perman- 
ent seat of legislation, to be selected by the state from the public 
lands. Fixing the temporary seat of government at Corydon has 



Edmund Dana. 209 

not so much contributed to the prosperity of the town as was 
expected. Being without any water communication with the 
Ohio, one and the nearest of the great high ways of the west, Cory- 
don is unfortunately located within that grade of distance from 
navigable water — where towns have never been known to flourish 
in this country — not so near as to enjoy the advantage of a river 
market, and not distant enough to obtain the country custom. 
The natural situation of the place, however, presents a scenery that 
attracts the attention of a stranger — a level bottom, encompassed 
by two fine never failing streams of water, and surrounded by high 
grounds, gradually rising like an amphitheatre. 

Salem, the capital of Washington county, a new but flourish- 
ing town, 34 miles north of Corydon, and 25 north west of Jeffer- 
sonville, stands on a small branch of Blue river, and contains a 
decent court house, of brick, 80 or 90 houses, some of which are 
neat buildings. Around this town is an extensive tract of land, 
of a superior quality, covered with a thick growth of stately forest 
trees. 

Brownstown, the seat of justice for the county of Jackson, 25 
miles north of Salem, is situated near the eastern branch of White- 
river, on the eastern side, a short distance from the boundary line 
of the late purchase. The soil around Brownstown consists of a 
gray sandy loam; it is very friable, and not liable to bake and 
harden by the heat of the sun. This spot appears to be without 
the limits of the calcareous region — on a strip of land from two to 
five miles in width, and from eight to fifteen in length, scarcely 
any limestone are to be found. Within a mile of the town are 
large quantities of iron ore, the best which has been discovered in 
the state. This town was laid -off in the midst of the forest, only 
three or four years ago, and the greater part of the houses are 
cabbins. 

Paoli, the county seat of Orange, is about 70 miles eastwardly 
of Vincennes, and 40 northwest of Jeffersonville, near the centre 
of a large tract of valuable lands. The place where the town 
stands, but three or four years ago, was covered .with large forest 
trees. 

Fredonia, a post town in the county of Crawford, 42 miles 
below the Falls, is situated in the great Horse-shoe bend, on an 
elevated plain, commanding an extensive and romantic prospect 
of the Ohio. A convenient passage way is opened by nature, 
through the rocks, to the river; which is here very bold on the 
western shore, forming a fine eddy. Between the town and the 

T— 14 



210 Early Travels in Indiana. 

river are a series of horizontal benches, terminating next the town 
in solid, perpendicular rock, where vines and fruit trees might be 
cultivated. There is a spring of good water near the centre of 
the town. In the ledges near the town, are abundance of good 
free stone. The town occupies as healthy a situation as any spot 
on the Ohio, and is so situated, in a great bend of the river, which 
projects so far to the north, at this place, as to cause it to be the 
nearest convenient accessible point of navigable waters for a great 
extent of country round. Its position, and the face of the country 
on each side of the river, for many miles, is favorable for much 
travel across from Kentucky and the southern states into the inter- 
ior of Indiana. The town laying about the centre of Indiana, on 
the river, is supposed to be as near a point as any on the Ohio, to 
the spot which may be located for the permanent seat of govern- 
ment. It is bejieved that for 50 or 60 miles, no other spot on the 
river unites so many natural conveniences for a town. The set- 
tlement here was not commenced until the fall of 1818. 

Levenworthville, about a mile below Blue river, is a new town in 
Crawford county, on the bank of the Ohio, containing a few houses. 

Mount Sterling, the county seat for Crawford, is located 
in the woods, and contains a few cabbins; it is about eight miles 
northwest of Fredonia. 

Washington, the seat of justice of Davies county, is situated 20 
miles east of Vincennes, 4 miles from the north and 16 from the 
south fork of Whiteriver, in the centre of a large body of excellent 
land, lying within the forks of the river; its being thus intersected 
by those navigable streams, affords peculiar facilities for exporting 
the produce of the country, which is well supplied with many small 
streams of good water, and interspersed with several rich prairas. 

Merom stands on a high bank of the Wabash, called the 
Bluffs, opposite Le Motte praira, in Illinois. The natural situa- 
tion is very pleasant, near large bodies of stone coal. It is the seat 
of justice for Sullivan county, which consists of a beautiful, fertile, 
well watered tract of country, through which flows for a consid- 
erable extent, the waters of the Wabash. Here are spacious 
prairas of the first quality, and a number of very large, productive 
plantations. Among the prairas are included the Honey creek, 
Fort Harrison and Praira creek prairas, all which present a most 
delightful scenery; the surface admitting of excellent roads, at all 
seasons of the year, and the soil equal to any portion of the west- 
ern country. These natural advantages have speedily produced an 



Edmund Dana. 211 

influx of population, and a degree of improvement, which has been 
rarely equalled in the west. 

Terre Haute, within the same county, about two miles below 
fort Harrison, is delightfully situated on a high bank of the 
Wabash, with a gradual descent to the river, along which extends a 
skirt of woodland near a mile in width. It was laid out in 1816, 
and is rapidly increasing its population and extending its improve- 
ments. 

Shakertown, settled by that industrious class of people called 
Shakers, lays at the lower end of the county, near the mouth of the 
Busseron, 15 miles above Vincennes. 

Vincennes, the earliest settlement between Kaskaskia and 
Pittsburgh, is pleasantly situated on the west bank of the Wabash, 
being the seat of justice for the county of Knox, and formerly the 
seat of legislation for the territory of Indiana. It was settled by 
French emigrants in 1735, who in the remote recesses of a wilder- 
ness, isolated from the civilized world, formerly approximated 
in manner and appearance to the savage tribes around them, 
having scarcely any intercourse with other people — they have, 
however, since their acquaintance with the Americans, much 
improved their condition, and among them may now be found 
intelligent men, who have resumed much of that urbanity of man- 
ners peculiar to Frenchmen. 

Vincennes, by the serpentine course of the Wabash, is distant 
from the mouth of that river 152 miles; while from Evansville, 
the nearest point of the Ohio, it is but 54. It is the most populous 
town in the state — and although long stationary, from causes not 
within its control, it is now, under the fostering care of a free gov- 
ernment, by the accession of a class of intelligent and enterprising 
inhabitants, developing its natural resources, by a rapid increase 
of population, and an extension of various important branches of 
business. Wm. Fellows & Co. have built a large steam grist and 
saw mill, and are erecting the present year (1819) twelve spacious 
brick buildings. The town contains about 300 dwelling houses, a 
court house of brick, a jail, a spacious neat brick seminary, two 
places for public worship, one Presbyterian and one Roman Cath- 
olic, a public land office, a post office, a bank, and two printing 
offices. 

Princeton, the seat of justice for the county of Gibson, 35 miles 
southerly from Vincennes, is a flourishing little town, very recently 
commenced. About one half of this county consists of a soil 



212 Early Travels in Indiana. 

remarkably good; the residue is second rate. It is watered by the 
Wabash and White rivers, and some of their tributary streams. 

Rockport, so named from its being situated upon a rock, which 
presents a high bold front on the Ohio, commands a romantic 
prospect of the river. This town, which is but just commenced, is 
the seat of justice for Spencer, one of the best counties in the 
state. 

Evansville, stands on a bend in the Ohio, at the mouth of Big 
Pigeon creek, 54 miles south of Vincennes, and 45 miles above the 
mouth of the Wabash. It is the seat of justice for Vandeburgh 
county. This town is in the vicinity of a large tract of excellent 
land, and acquires an importance from being the nearest and most 
convenient landing for emigrants bound up the Wabash. This is 
considered among the best natural situations for mercantile busi- 
ness in the state. 

Harmony, 54 miles below Vincennes, and 106 by water above 
the mouth of the Wabash, stands on the bank of that river, and is 
the capital of Posey, the southwestern county of the state. 
It was settled in 1814, by a religious sect of Germans, denominated 
Harmonists, now consisting of nearly 800 inhabitants. They were 
first established about 20 miles from Pittsburgh, whence they 
removed to this place, where they possess several thousand acres 
of good land, in a body; which is held in the name of Geo. Rapp, 
their head man and religious teacher, as he alleges, for the com- 
mon use of the whole. These people are remarkable for the observ- 
ance of the rules prescribed by their leader, whom they call father, 
and in whose name all purchases and sales are made; they are 
remarkable for their regularity, industry and skill in the mechanic 
arts — are cultivators of the grape vine, and manufacture several 
kinds of excellent cloths. 

Rivers and principal streams. — The Great Miami, Ohio and 
Wabash rivers, which constitute a considerable portion of the 
boundary lines of Indiana, are to be found described in our pre- 
liminary remarks. The meanderings of the Ohio in passing the 
width of the state (in a right line but 155 miles) are reckoned 472 
miles in extent. 

Whitewater, flowing with a rapid current of pure water, gen- 
erally over a sandy, pebbly bottom, draws its fountain from two 
chief branches; the east heading near Ohio western boundary, in 
that state, a few miles west of Greenville; the west takes its 
origin in the flat lands, 30 miles west of Brookville, just below 
which town the two branches form a junction, and after running 



Edmund Dana. 213 

about fifty miles in a southerly direction, empty into the Great 
Miami 43^ miles in a right line from its confluence with the Ohio. 

Next below, on the Ohio, in course as named, are Tanner's, 
Wilson's, Hogan's (the two main branches of which unite within 
one hundred rods from the mouth,) Laughry's, Arnold's and 
Grant's creeks, all within the county of Dearborn. Indian 
creek, the southern boundary of the Swiss settlement, is seven miles 
above the mouth of Kentucky river. Silver creek joins the Ohio 
a short distance below the Falls. Wyandot is equidistant from 
the Falls and Blue river. 

The Big Blue river, after meandering 50 miles southwest, 
bends to the east of south, and empties into the Ohio, 32 miles 
below the mouth of Salt river. 

Little Blue river finds its source in the hills which skirt the 
Ohio, and forming several cascades, the declivities of which 
furnish convenient mill seats, meets the Ohio about 12 miles below 
the mouth of Big Blue river. Ten miles below the former is Sink- 
ing creek. 

Anderson's river, 60 miles further down, is the largest stream 
between Blue river and the Wabash. Piqua and Beaver creeks 
join the Ohio below. Many fine streams of water, affording con- 
venient mill seats, intersect the country between White river and 
the Ohio. 

The main branch of the Wabash heads two miles east of fort 
St. Mary's, in Dark county, Ohio. Of the three other branches, 
the one called Little river heads seven miles south of fort Wayne, 
and enters the Wabash 80 miles below St. Mary's portage. The 
east is the Massissiniway, heading equidistant from forts Green- 
ville and Recovery, and reaches the Wabash 5 miles below 
the mouth of Little river. The third is Eel river, issuing from 
several lakes and ponds 18 miles west of Fort Wayne, and joins the 
Wabash eight miles below the mouth of the Massisinaway. 

The whole range of country traversed by the water of the 
Wabash, is remarkable for its destitution of hills, and promin- 
ences. 

Petoka, a small river, running a west course, about 75 miles 
through rich bottom, falls into the Wabash four miles below White 
river. 

White River meanders nearly across the state southwestwardly, 
supplying with water and fertilizing a large body of good land, 
and joins the Wabash 16 miles below Vincennes; 35 miles above the 



214 Early Travels in Indiana. 

mouth the two principal branches unite, called North or Drift- 
wood-Fork, and the South or Muddy-Fork. 

Deche River comes into the Wabash about half way between 
Vincennes and the mouth of White river, flowing from the north 
east; it is a rapid, short stream. 

Little River, in a serpentine course from the northeast over 
wide spread bottoms, flows into the Wabash, a short distance 
above Vincennes. Between this and the Deche, a rich bottom 
expands to a great extent. 

St. Marie flows from the north east 60 miles, joining the Wabash 
18 miles above Vincennes. 

Rocky River, 60 miles above St. Marie, interweaving its 
branches with those of the main fork of White river, directs its 
course to the Wabash — is 100 yards wide at its mouth, and 
branches into several forks. 

The Pomme meets the Wabash about 100 miles above the Rocky 
river — rises near the eastern boundary of the state, not much 
north of the sources of Whitewater. Besides the above rivers, are 
a number of small streams, that water the country on the south- 
east branch of the Wabash. The other side, however, is more 
abundant in large water courses. 

On the northwest side, 10 miles below the Pomme, is Richards 
creek; 10 miles still below is Rock river with high banks, flowing 
through a country rather broken. 

Tippacanoe, comes in 8 miles below Rock river, on which was 
fought the bloody battle of November, 1811, with the savages. 
Near the confluence of this river with the Wabash, on both 
streams, are several Indian villages, with extensive cultivated 
fields. 

Above the Tippacanoe are Pine and Redwood creeks; Rejoic- 
ing or Vermillion, Jaune, Little Vermillion, Erabliere, Duchet's, 
and Breuette rivers; at an interval of from eight to fifteen miles of 
each other; all flowing from the west or north west, mostly small, 
and heading in the state of Illinois. The rivers of Chanin, Big 
and Little Kemomic, which flow to lake Michigan; the Theakiki, 
Kickapoo, and a part of the chief branches of Illinois river, all 
meander through the north western part of the state; and all, 
except the last, entirely within its boundaries : the three first run- 
ning from south to north; the latter, south and southwest. The 
Vermillion of Illinois rises in Indiana, near the sources of Tippa- 
canoe. There are many smaller streams not enumerated. The 
borders of the Michigan lake, within the state, are well watered 



Edmund Dana. 215 

by the numerous forks of Black river and St. Joseph's, of lake 
Michigan; the latter heading near, and interlocking with the 
branches of Eel river, and pursuing a winding course 70 miles 
through the northern part of Indiana. 

The northern half of the state is interspersed with a great 
number of lakes— 38 of which, from two to ten miles in length, 
have been delineated on maps. The actual number is supposed to 
exceed 100. Some have two distinct out-lets; one running into the 
northern lakes, the other into the Mississippi. The greatest num- 
ber of these lakes are between the head waters of the two St. 
Joseph's, Black, Raisin, Tippacanoe and Eel rivers. 



From A statistical, political and historical account of North 
America, by D. B. Warden [1819], Vol. II., pp. 
281-312. 

Warden,[David^Baillie. 

David B. Warden, a French-Irish author, was born in Ireland in 1778. 
When twenty years of age, he came to America and soon gained recognition 
as a brilliant writer and antiquarian. In 1805 he was appointed Secretary 
to the United States Legation in Paris, and a few years later was appointed 
Consul. On two or three occasions he had some difficulty with the home 
government, and in 1814 was suspended from the consular service. He how- 
ever, continued to reside in Paris, and turned his attention entirely to writing. 
Being an ardent antiquarian he undertook a survey of the United States. 
And his Statistical, Political and Historical Accounts of our country, 
published in 1819, affords one of the best available source books on the 
physical conditions of the United States. 

INDIANA. 

Situation and Boundaries. — The state of Indiana is situated 
between 37° 50' and 42° 10' of north latitude, and between 7° 
40' and 10° 45' west longitude from Washington. It is bounded on 
the south by the river Ohio; north by the parallel of 42° 10', 
which passes through Lake Michigan, ten miles beyond its south- 
ern extremity; east by the state of Ohio; and west by the Illinois 
territory, from which it is separated by the Wabash river from its 
mouth to Vincennes, and from Vincennes northward by a meridian 
line. Its form is pretty nearly a parallelogram; its length from 
north to south being about 284 miles, and its mean breadth about 
155. Area, 39,000 square miles, or 24,960,000 acres. 
£ Aspect of the Country, and Nature of the Soil.— The surface, 
from the falls of the Ohio to the Wabash, is broken and uneven, 
being traversed by a range of hills called the "Knobs," which rise 
to the height of 400 or 500 feet above their base. From this range 
is a level surface, called the "Flat Woods," seventy miles in 
breadth, extending to the Ouitanon country. Along all the prin- 
cipal streams, except the Ohio, there is a tract of rich alluvial soil, 
without timber, which terminates in meadow lands, rising from 
thirty to a hundred feet above the former, adorned with copses of 
beautiful shrubs, and bounded by lofty forests. In the summer 
season these meadows are covered with a luxuriant growth of 
herbage, from six to eight feet high. The common depth of the 

(216) 



David Baillie Warden. 217 

soil is from two to three feet; but along the Wabash, in forming 
wells, it Was found to be twenty-two feet, and underneath a 
stratum of fine white sand was discovered. The lands on White 
river are hilly, broken, and in some parts stony; but exceedingly 
well watered. From the mouth of Big Miami to Blue river, a 
range of hills, intersected by streams, runs near to and parallel 
with the Ohio. Below Blue river, the country is level, and cov- 
ered with heavy timber. Between the Wabash river and Lake 
Michigan, there is a champaign country, chiefly meadow, inter- 
sected by forests of fine trees, abounding in swamps, and inland 
lakes, the sources of numerous streams. From the south bank of 
the St. Joseph river extend rich meadow lands, from one to ten 
miles in breadth, and of variable length; the soil is dry, being at 
least 100 feet above high water. The soil around the sources of 
Eel river, Panther's creek, and St. Joseph of the Miami, and 
between the two extreme branches of the Wabash, is generally 
low and swampy, but interspersed with tracts of good soil. The 
overflowing of the rivers is very extensive; and, as most of them 
have a winding course, they water one-half more of the coun- 
try, than if they ran in a straight line. General Harrison, who 
traversed this country in every direction, remarks, "that the finest 
country in all the western world is that which is bounded east- 
wardly by the counties of Wayne, Franklin, and part of Dear- 
born, Switzerland, and Jefferson; westward by the tract called the 
New Purchase; and extending northwardly some small distance 
beyond the Wabash. This tract, containing perhaps 10,000,000 
of acres, is principally the property of the Miami tribe of Indians; 
part of it of the Miamis and Delawares. It includes all the 
head waters of the White river, and the branches of the Wabash 
which fall in from the south and southeast.* 

Climate. — In all the high country the climate is particularly 
healthy; but in the low alluvial soil, formed of decaying vege- 
table substances, the air is unfriendly to health. The winter is 
milder, and much shorter, than in the northern states. The fine 
weather generally continues to Christmas, and spring com- 
mences about the middle of February. The peach blossoms about 
the 1st of March, and the woods are green by the 10th of April. 
But some winters are much colder. In that of 1815 the frost con- 
tinued two or three weeks; the snow was from six to nine inches 
deep ; and the ice of the Wabash, in many places, was strong enough 
to be passed over. Apple, cherry, and peach trees thrive well; 

♦Appendix to the Western Gazetteer, p. 358. 



218 Early Travels in Indiana. 

tobacco also thrives as well here as in Virginia. The vine and sweet 
potatoe are cultivated at New Switzerland and Vevay. Below 
Ouitanon, in latitude 40° 20', the climate is mild. Above the 
sources of the Wabash, where the north and north-westerly winds 
prevail, the winters are much more severe. The reed cane grows 
as high up as the mouth of the Big Miami. Cotton is raised at 
Vincennes, Princeton, Harmony, and in the settlements below 
the mouth of Anderson; though it does not grow to perfection 
above the thirty-first degree of latitude. 

Rivers. — This state is watered by the rivers Ohio and Wabash, 
and their numerous branches; the southern parts by the former, 
over a distance of 472 miles, following its course from the entrance 
of the Big Miami to that of the Wabash. The principal branches 
of the Ohio are — 1. Tanner's creek, which rises in the flat woods 
to the south of Brookville; and running a course of thirty miles, 
falls in below Lawrenceburgh, where it is thirty yards wide. 2. 
Loughery's creek, forty miles in length, and fifty yards wide at its 
entrance, falls in eleven miles below the Big Miami. 3. Indian 
creek, called also Indian Kentucky, and by the Swiss, Venoge,* 
rises in the hills near the south fork of White river, forty-five 
miles north-east of Vevay, and falls in eight miles below the mouth 
of Kentucky river. It forms the southern limit of the Swiss set- 
tlement. 4. Wyandot creek issues from the hills which extend in a 
transverse direction from near the mouth of Blue river to the 
Muddy fork of White river, and joins the Ohio at about an equal 
distace between the falls and Blue river. 5. Big Blue river, so 
named from the colour of its waters, rises farther north, near the 
South fork of White river, runs fifty miles south-west, and then, 
taking a southern direction, enters the Ohio thirty-two miles below 
the mouth of Salt river. It is about fifty yards in breadth, and is 
navigable forty miles to a rift, which, if removed, would extend it 
farther ten or twelve miles. f 6. Little Blue river, forty yards 
wide, has its entrance thirteen miles below the former. 7. Ander- 
son's river, which joins the Ohio sixty miles farther down, is the 
most considerable stream below Blue river and the Wabash. 
Besides these, there are several creeks, but none of great length. 
The current of all these streams is pretty rapid, and their waters 
are good. The Wabash, which waters the middle and western 
parts of the state, rises from two sources near the eastern bound- 
ary line, about 100 miles from Lake Erie, and runs across the state 

*The name of a small river of Switzerland, in the Pays de Vaud. 
tSchultz, Vol. I., p. 196. 



David Baillie Warden. 219 

in a south-western and southern course of above 500 miles, dis- 
charging its waters into the Ohio in latitude 37° 21'. The prin- 
cipal upper branch of the Wabash has its source two miles east of 
old Fort St. Mary's; another, called Little river, rises seven miles 
south of Fort Wayne, and enters about eighty miles below the St. 
Mary's Portage; a third, the Massassinway, rises in Darke county, 
state of Ohio; a fourth, Eel river, issues from several lakes and 
ponds eighteen miles west of Fort Wayne, and enters the Wabash 
eight miles below the mouth of the former, which unites five miles 
below the mouth of Little river. White river, the largest branch 
of the Wabash, is 200 miles in length. At the distance of thirty- 
five miles from its mouth, (sixteen miles below Vincennes,) it 
divides into two branches, which water the south-eastern parts 
of the state below the fortieth degree of latitude. The northern, 
called the Drift Wood branch, interlocks with the north fork of 
White water, and with the Still water of the Big Miami. The 
southern, known by the name of Muddy Fork, rises between the 
West fork of the White water. The Northern fork has a branch, 
called Teakettle, which extends from its junction, twenty miles 
above that of the two principal forks, across the intervening sur- 
face. During the period of high water, both the branches of the 
White river are boatable to the distance of 130 miles. The 
Petoka river has its source near that of the southern branch of 
White river, with which it runs parallel at the distance of ten 
or twelve miles; and, after a course of seventy-five, it joins the 
Wabash, twenty miles below Vincennes. Decke river, a short 
winding stream, which somes from the north-east, falls in about 
half way between Vincennes and White river. Little river, from 
the French name La Petite Riviere, comes also from the north- 
east, and enters a little above Vincennes. The St. Marie, from the 
same quarter, is fifty miles long, and enters eighteen miles above 
Vincennes; and, eighteen miles higher, is Rocky river, which is 100 
yards wide at its mouth; it has several large branches. Another 
Little river, which comes from the south-east, from near the 
sources of Rocky river, is the only stream from this last which 
enters from the left, to the distance of seventy miles. Pomme 
river, which rises to the north of the head branches of White water, 
comes from the south-east, and falls in twenty miles below the 
mouth of Massassinway. Richard's creek, ten miles below on the 
right side, is a considerable stream; and about an equal distance 
farther south is Rock river, from the north-west, which passes 
through a broken country. Eight miles farther down is the Tip- 



220 Early Travels in Indiana. 

pacanoe, which has its source about twenty miles west of Fort 
Wayne. Several of its branches, issuing from lakes, swamps, and 
ponds, communicate with the St. Joseph's of the Miami of the 
lakes. Farther south are several streams coming from the west or 
north-west, running at the distance of from ten to fifteen miles 
from each other; the Pine and Red Wood creeks, Rejoicing, or 
Vermillion Jaime, Little Vermillion, Erabliere, Duchat, and 
Brouette. White Water river, so called from the transparency of its 
waters, runs across the southeastern parts of the state in its course 
to the Great Miami, and is said to water nearly a million of acres 
of fine land; it is more than 100 yards wide; its western branch 
interlocks with those of White river. The north-eastern parts 
of the state are watered by the St. Joseph's of the Miami of the 
lakes, which has its source about sixty miles north-west of Fort 
Wayne, above which it forms a junction with the St. Mary's; 
and its remote branches interramify with those of the Raisin and 
Black rivers, the St. Joseph of Lake Michigan, and Eel river. 
The borders adjoining the Michigan territory are watered by the 
head branches of the river Raison of Lake Erie, the branches of 
Black river, and the St. Joseph of Lake Michigan. The branches 
of the latter have a communication with those of Eel river. The 
north-western parts are watered by several streams flowing into 
Lake Michigan; the rivers Chemin, Big and Little Kennomic; 
the Theakiki, Kickapoo, and many smaller streams. 

Chicago river, which runs into the south-western extremity of 
Lake Michigan, at the distance of sixteen miles from its mouth, 
divides into two branches. It forms a harbour, into which sloops 
of forty tons enter. The Great Kennomic, which also empties into 
Lake Michigan, thirty miles east of the former, has its source at 
the distance of twenty or thirty miles south of this lake; and runs 
first nearly westward, in a direction parallel to the shore of the 
lake; it then makes a doubling, and runs nearly eastward, after 
which it pursues a northern course, for a few miles, to the lake. 
Its outlet forms a spacious bay. 

Lakes. — The upper parts of this state are diversified with a 
number of lakes, thirty-eight of which, delineated on the latest 
maps, are from two to ten miles in length; and the whole number 
is said to exceed a hundred. Some are found to have two outlets, 
into the lakes on one side, and into the Mississippi on the other. 
Most of these small lakes are situated between the sources of the 
two St. Josephs, Black River, Raisin, Tippacanoe, and Eel rivers. 

Extent of Navigable Waters. — The Ohio river washes the south- 



David Baillie Warden. 221 

ern boundary of Indiana, for the distance of 472 miles; the Wabash 
is navigable 470;* White river and its forks, 160; Petoka, 30; 
Blue river, 40; Whitewater, 40; Rocky river, 45; Pomme, 30; 
Massassinway, 45; Eel and Little rivers, 60; western tributaries of 
the Wabash, 330; St. Joseph's of the Miami and Panther's creek, 
75; Elkhart and part of St. Joseph's of Lake Michigan, 100; 
Great and Little Kennomic, 120; Chemin river, 40; Chicago and 
Kickapoo, 80; Theakaki and parts of Fox, Plein, and Illinois, 
300;f southern coast of Lake Michigan, 50. In all, 2,487. 

A company, with a capital of a million of dollars, has been incor- 
porated by the legislature, for the purpose of opening a canal along 
the falls, or rapids, of the Ohio, which, when executed, will be of 
great advantage 

Minerals. — Silver ore is said to have been discovered at a place 
about twenty-eight miles above Ouitanon, on the northern side 
of the Wabash ;J copperas on the high bank of Silver creek, about 
two miles from its mouth; iron ore on White river, and other 
places. Between White river and New Lexington, the wells are so 
impregnated with copperas, that they blacken linen; and being 
considered by the inhabitants as very unwholesome, several of 
them have on this account abandoned their habitations. A chalyb- 
eate spring, containing sulphur and iron, near Jeffersonville, is 
much frequented. Coal. — Mr. Hutchins states, "That the hills 
are replenished with the best coal; that there is plenty of swine- 
stone and freestone; blue, yellow, and white clay, for glassworks 

*The Wabash, at its mouth, is 300 yards wide; at Vincennes, 100 miles from its 
mouth, from forty to seventy rods, and it is navigable thence to the rapids of Ouitanon, 
for keel boats, or barges drawing three feet water, about 212 miles. Above this village 
small boats ascend nearly 200 miles farther, to within six miles of St. Mary's river, 
ten of Fort Wayne, and eight of the St. Joseph's, flowing into the Miami of the lakes. 
The banks of this beautiful river are high, and less subject to inundation than any other 
in this country, except the Ohio, though when the waters rise in March, its borders 
are partially overflowed from Fort Harrison to Vincennes, 120 miles by water, and 55 
by land, and opposite this last place to the distance of four or five miles, which obliges 
the farmers to remove their cattle and swine. The rapids at Ouitanon are impassable 
for boats, but small vessels of thirty tons burden can navigate between this place and 
Vincennes. 

^Portages. — In the northern parts of the state the Wabash and Illinois rivers are 
connected with Lakes Erie and Michigan, by numerous branches, which issue from 
sources near one another. Of twenty portages near the Michigan frontier, only two 
have been traversed by the white settlers. One extending nine miles, between near 
Fort Wayne on the St. Mary's and the Little river branch of the Wabash is a good route 
in dry seasons. It was by this channel the French passed from the lakes to their post 
on the Wabash River. The other portage, much shorter, extends between the Chicago 
and Kickapoo branch of the Illinois, and so level is the surface, that during the rise 
of their waters, boats pass between Lake Michigan and the Illinois River. 

See Volney's account of this internal water communication between the lakes and 
waters of the Mississippi. 

JHutchins, p. 28. 



222 Early Travels in Indiana. 

and pottery." There is a coal mine a little below the forks of 
White river. 

Salt Springs. — Some valuable salt springs have been discovered 
on the Wabash river, and also on Salina creek, which are leased by 
the government of the United States to contractors, who are 
obliged not to receive more for salt than half a dollar a bushel at* 
the works; but through the agency of private copartners, it is not 
sold at the storehouses for less than two dollars.* Near the town 
of New Lexington, at the depth of 520 feet, the salt wells give from 
three to four bushels of salt to the hundred gallons of water. These 
works are the property of General Macfarland. Glauber's salt, 
or sulphate of potash, has been lately found in a cave situated 
twelve miles from the Ohio river, and about the same distance 
west of New Albany. The quantity is so great as to promise an 
inexhaustible supply. Epsom salt (sulphate of magnesia) has been 
also found in a cave about thirty-five leagues from Louisville; 
and saltpetre exists in certain caves in the neighbourhood. A sec- 
tion of land of 160 acres, containing these treasures, was pur- 
chased! at two dollars an acre. 

Forest Trees and Shrubs. — Mr. Hutchins remarks, that the 
timber on the Wabash river is large, high, and in such variety, 
that almost all the different kinds growing upon the Ohio, and its 
branches, (but with a greater proportion of black and white mul- 
berry trees,) may be found here.J The natural meadows are 
intersected by narrow woods, containing oak, ash, maple, locust, 
poplar, plum, and the crab-apple tree. On the outside of these 
meadows oak abounds, and grows to a great size. The principal 
trees on the branches of White river are white oak, hickery, and 
black walnut. The hills of Whitewater river terminate in a level 
and rich country, thickly wooded with oak, walnut, beech, ash, 
elm, hickery, maple, sugar tree, &c. On Silver creek, Canerun, 
and other branches of the Ohio, and the south fork of White river, 
hickery and oak abound. The banks of Blue river are also cov- 
ered with oak and locust; the neighbouring hills with black wal- 
nut, oak, hickery, ash, sugar maple; the low intervening grounds 
with bass-wood, papaw, honey-locust, buck-eye, and spice-wood, 
with the wild vine, and various shrubs. Along the borders of 
Whitewater river, ginseng grows to an uncommon size; on the 
poor soil of the spurs of the hills, the columbo root abounds. The 

*Schultz, Vol. I., p. 199. 
t — By Dr. Adams. 
t — Page 28. 



David Baillie Warden. 223 

cane grows to the south of the ridge of hills, which extend from the 
falls of the Ohio to those of the Wabash, above the mouth of White 
river, and in some places as far north as the mouth of the Big 
Miami. An extraordinary phenomenon is met with in this 
country in the woods along White river, — natural wells, from ten 
to fifteen feet deep, formed by the decay of the trunks and roots 
of large sycamore trees. 

Animals. — The woods abound with deer. Bears and wolves 
are also numerous. Of the feathered race of game, wild turkeys, 
ducks, and pigeons, swarm in the woods, and on the waters of the 
northern parts. The rattlesnake and copperhead snake infest the 
woody country, but are seldom seen on the low lands. Fishes. — 
Of the fish which inhabit the rivers, we find no particular account. 
The Great Kennomic of Lake Michigan is said to furnish the 
Indians with an inexhaustible supply.* 

Civil or Administrative Division of the State of Indiana, with the 

Population of each County and Chief Town in 1810, 

the year of the last Enumeration. 

Counties. Population. Chief Towns. 

Clarke 7,000 Jeffersonville. f 

Dearborn 5,426 Lawrenceburgh. J 

Franklin. 7,970 Brookville.§ 

Gibson 5 , 330 Princeton. 

Harrison 6 , 769 Corydon. 

Jefferson 4 , 093 Maddison. 

♦Western Gazetteer, p. 77. 

tJeffersonville, situated on the bank of the Ohio, a little above the falls, and nearly 
opposite Louisville, contained, in 1816, about 130 houses. 

JLawrenceburgh, situated on the Ohio River, two miles below the mouth of the 
Big Miami, has not succeeded as was expected, owing to the annual inundation of the 
river. A new town has been laid out half a mile farther up on an elevated situation, 
and named Edinburgh. A place called "Rising Sun," in the same county of Dear- 
born, situated on an elevated bank of the Ohio, between Vevay and Lawrenceburgh, 
contains thirty or forty houses. Its growth has been rapid; and it will probably 
become a place of considerable trade. 

§Brookville, in Franklin County, situated between the branches of White River, thirty 
miles north of Lawrenceburgh, was established in 1811; but being within fifteen miles 
of the Indian line of demarcation, it did not increase during the late war ; since the peace, 
however, its growth has been very rapid. In 1816 it contained eighty dwelling-houses 
a grist mill, two saw mills, two fulling mills, three carding machines, and a printing 
office, besides a great number of workshops. The ground, elevated between seventy 
and eighty feet above the level of the river, is dry and pleasant, and is peculiarly 
favourable for the establishment of manufactures, the branches of the river affording 
fine situations for the erection of water machinery. Harrison village, in the same 
county, eight miles from the mouth of Whitewater, on the northern side, and eighteen 
northeast [southeast] of Brookville, commenced about the year 1800, and in 1816 
contained thirty-five houses. 



224 Early Travels in Indiana. 

Counties. Population. Chief Towns. 

Knox 6 , 800 Vincennes* 

Switzerland 3,500 Vevey.f 

Washington 6 , 606 Salem. 

Wayne 6,290 Salisbury. 

Orange 

Posey 3,000 

Perry 3,000 

Warwick 3,000 



68,784 
Population. — 
In 1800 the population amounted to 4,875. 

1810, 24,520 of whom 237 were slaves. 

1815, 68,784 

According to the numeration of 1810 there were 23,890 whites. 

237 slaves. 
393 fr. blacks. 



24,520 
Increase in 5 years 44,264. 

The settlements extend chiefly along the Ohio, the branches of 
the Big Miami, the Wabash, and the Whitewater river. The 
most ancient and most populous part of the state is Knox county, 
on the east side of the Wabash river, and watered by several of its 
branches, the Decke, White river, Little river, St. Mary's, Bus- 
seron, Racoon, and Ambush creeks. It contains 20,000 acres of 
the best meadow and alluvial land. 

Constitution. — Indiana was under a territorial government till 
1816. Agreeably to an act of Congress, of 16th April that year, a 
convention was held at Corydon, on the 29th June, consisting of 

*Vincennes, formerly St. Vincent, situated in Latitude 38° 51' north, on the east 
side of the Wabash River, on a level and beautiful surface, nearly 200 miles from its 
junction with the Ohio, following its course, but 100 only in a straight line, contained 
in 1816 about 100 houses. The inhabitants raise Indian corn, wheat and tobacco of 
excellent quality. They have a fine breed of horses, (brought originally by the Indiana 
from the Spanish settlements on the western side of the river Mississippi.) and large 
herds of swine and black cattle. The settlers deal with the natives for furs and deer 
skins, to the amount of L. 5,000 annually. In 1817, steam mills upon an extensive 
scale were begun to be built. Ouitanon, a small stocked fort on the western side of 
the Wabash, traded with the neighbouring Indians to the amount of about L. 8,000 a 
year. — (Hutchins, p. 28, 31.) 

tVevay, situated on the bank of the Ohio, was laid out in 1813; and in 1816 the 
number of dwelling houses had incerased to eighty-four; the shops for mechanics to 
thirty-four; the stores to eight; the taverns to three. A court house, jail, and school 
house, were then building of brick materials. Vevay is seventy miles by water, and 
forty-five by land, below Cincinnati. New Switzerland, near the former, extending 
four miles along the Ohio from Indian creek or Venoge, was established in 1805 by 
emigrants from the Pays de Vaud, with the view of cultivating the vine. The vine- 
yards are now very extensive, and the settlement is in a prosperous state. 



David Baillie Warden. 225 

forty-one delegates, chosen by all the male citizens of the state 
who were twenty-one years of age, had paid taxes, and resided a 
year in the territory. These delegates framed the constitution of 
the state. 

The first article declares, that all power is inherent in the peo- 
ple, that all free governments are founded on their authority, 
and instituted for their peace, safety, and happiness; and that, for 
the advancement of these ends, they have, at all times, an unalien- 
able and indefeasible right to alter or reform their government as 
they may deem proper; that all men have a natural right to wor- 
ship God according to the dictates of their own consciences; 
that no man shall be compelled to attend any place of worship, 
or to maintain any ministry against his consent; that no preference 
shall be given by law to any religious sect; that no religious test 
shall be required as a qualification to any office of trust or profit; 
that elections shall be free and equal; the right of trial by jury 
inviolate in all civil cases where the value in controversy shall 
exceed the sum of twenty dollars, and in all criminal cases, except 
in petit misdemeanours, which shall be punishable by fine only, 
not exceeding three dollars, in such manner as the legislature may 
prescribe by law. All persons, their houses, papers, and effects, to 
be secure against unreasonable searches and seizures. The 
printing-presses to be free to every person. In all indictments for 
libels, the jury shall decide upon the law and the facts; that all 
courts shall be open; that no person arrested or confined in jail, 
shall be treated with unnecessary rigour; that all persons shall be 
bailable by sufficient sureties, unless for capital offences, when the 
proof is evident or the presumption great, and that excessive bail 
shall not be required. That the privilege of the right of habeas 
corpus shall not be suspended, unless in case of rebellion or inva- 
sion, nor then, unless the public safety require it. No ex post 
facto law, nor any law impairing the validity of contracts, shall 
ever be made, and no conviction shall work corruption of blood, nor 
forfeiture of estate. The people to have a right to assemble together 
in a peaceable manner, to consult for the public good, to instruct 
their representatives, and apply to the legislature for a redres 
of grievances. The people to have a right to bear arms for the 
defence of themselves and the state; the military to be kept in 
strict subordination to the civil power; no soldier to be quartered 
in any house without the consent of the owner, in time of peace. 
The legislature not to grant any title of nobility, or hereditary dis- 



226 Early Travels in Indiana. 

tinction, nor to create any office, the appointment to which shall 
be for a longer term than good behaviour. 

Emigration from the state not to be prohibited. These rights 
are to remain for ever inviolable, and in order to guard against any 
encroachments thereon, are excepted out of the general powers 
of government. 

The legislative authority is vested in a general assembly, con- 
sisting of a senate and house of representatives, both elected by the 
people. The number of representatives to be fixed by the gen- 
eral assembly, according to the number of white male inhabitants 
above twenty-one years of age in each county, and never to be 
less than twenty-five, nor greater than thirty-six, until the num- 
ber of white male inhabitants, above twenty-one years of age, shall 
be 22,000; and after that takes place, in such ratio, that the whole 
number of representatives shall never be less than 36, nor exceed 
100. An enumeration of the white male inhabitants, above the 
age of twenty-one years, to be made in the year 1820, and every 
subsequent term of five years. The representatives to be chosen 
annually by the qualified electors of each county respectively, 
on the first Monday of August. The qualifications of representa- 
tives are, to have attained the age of twenty-one years; to be a 
citizen of the United States, and an inhabitant of the state; to 
have resided within the limits of the county in which he is chosen, 
one year next preceding his election, and to have paid state or 
county taxes. 

The senators to be chosen on the first Monday of August, for 
three years, by the qualified voters for representatives; to be 
divided into three classes, which are to be renewed in succession 
annually. The number of senators never to be less than one-third, 
nor more than one-half of the number of representatives. The 
qualifications of a senator are, 1. To have attained the age of 
twenty-five years. 2. To be a citizen of the United States, and 
to have resided two years, preceding the election, in the state, 
and the last twelve months in the county or district, unless absent 
on public business. 3. To have paid state or county tax. Two- 
thirds of each house constitute a quorum, but a smaller number 
may adjourn from day to day, and compel the attendance of absent 
members. The members of both houses to be privileged from 
arrest during the session of the general assembly, except in cases 
of treason, felony, or breach of the peace. Both houses to be open 
except in cases requiring secrecy. Bills may originate in either 
house, subject to alteration, amendment, or rejection in the 



David Baillie Warden. 227 

other, except bills for raising revenue, which shall originate in 
the house of representatives. No person holding any office under 
the authority of the president of the United States, or of the state, 
except militia officers, are eligible to a seat in either branch of the 
general assembly, unless he resign his office previous to his elec- 
tion ; nor can any member of either branch of the general assembly 
be eligible to any office during the time for which he is elected, the 
appointment of which is vested in the general assembly. An accur- 
ate statement of the receipts and expenditure of the public money 
to be published with the laws at every annual session of the gen- 
eral assembly. The governor and all civil officers of the state 
are liable to removal from office, on impeachment for, or convic- 
tion of treason, bribery, or other high crimes and misdemeanours; 
and to indictment, trial, judgment, and punishment, according to 
law. The general assembly meets on the first Monday in Decem- 
ber. 

The governor is chosen by the qualified electors, (on the first 
Monday in August, at the places where they respectively vote for 
representatives,) for the term of three years^ and cannot hold this 
office longer than six years in any term of nine years. The qualifi- 
cations are, 1. To be thirty years of age. 2. To have been a 
citizen of the United States ten j^ears; and resided in the state 
five years next preceding his election, unless absent on public 
business. The salary of the governor neither to be increased 
nor diminished during the term for which he shall have been elec- 
ted. He is commander-in-chief of the army and navy of the state, 
and of the militia, except when called into the service of the 
United States; but he is not to command in person, except advised 
so to do by a resolution of the general assembly. By and with the 
consent of the senate, he is authorized to appoint and commis- 
sion all officers, the appointment of which is not otherwise directed 
by the constitution. He has power to fill up vacancies in offices, 
the appointment of which is vested in the governor and senate, pr 
in the general assembly. To remit fines and forfeitures; grant 
reprieves and pardons, except in cases of impeachment; to con- 
vene the general assembly on extraordinary occasions; to approve 
and sign every bill, or to return it to the house with his objections 
for reconsideration. In case of death or resignation his functions 
are exercised by the lieutenant-governor. 

The secretary of state is chosen by the joint ballot of both 
houses of the general assembly, for the term of four years, and 
is commissioned by the governor. The treasurer and auditor for 



228 Early Travels in Indiana. 

three years. A sheriff and coroner are elected in each county, by 
the qualified electors; they continue in office two years, and are 
not eligible more than four, in any term of six years.* 

Judiciary. — The judicial power is vested in a supreme court, 
in circuit courts, and such other inferior courts as the general 
assembly may, from time to time, erect and establish. The 
supreme court to consist of three judges, any two of whom shall 
form a quorum, and shall have appellate jurisdiction only, co- 
extensive with the limits of the state. The general assembly may 
give to this court original jurisdiction in capital cases, and cases 
in chancery, where the president of the circuit court may be 
interested or prejudiced. 

The circuit courts each to have a president, and two associate 
judges. The state to be divided into three circuits, but the num- 
ber may be afterwards increased, and a president to be appointed 
and to preside in each. The president and associate judges, in 
their respective counties, to have common law and chancery 
jurisdiction, and also complete criminal jurisdiction, in all such 
cases as may be prescribed by law. The judges to hold their offices 
for the term of seven years. The judges of the supreme court are 
appointed by the governor, by and with the advice of the sen- 
ate. The presidents of the circuit courts, by joint ballot of both 
branches of the general assembly. The associate judges of the 
circuit courts are elected by the qualified electors in the respec- 
tive counties. The clerk of the supreme court is appointed by the 
court itself; those of the circuit court in the several counties are 
elected by the qualified electors. Justices of the peace are elected 
for five years by the qualified electors in each township. 

Militia. — The militia consists of all free, able-bodied male 

*The constitution may be revised, amended, or changed by a convention, to be 
held every twelfth year for that purpose, if a majority of the qualified electors, at the 
general election of governor, vote in favour of this measure, (Art. 8), Slavery or in- 
voluntary servitude can never be introduced into the state, except for the punishment of 
crimes, whereof the party shall have been duly convicted, and no indenture of any 
negro or mulatto hereafter made and executed, out of the bounds of this state, can be 
of any validity within the state. 

By the 9th Article of the Constitution, the general assembly is authorized to grant 
lands for the support of seminaries and public schools; and, so soon as circumstances 
permit, they are to provide for a general system of education, ascending in a regular 
gradation from township schools to a state university, in which education shall be 
afforded gratis, and be open equally to all. The sums paid by the persons as an equiva- 
lent for militia duty, and also penal fines, are to be applied to the support of county 
seminaries. In laying off a new county, the general assembly is to reserve, at least, 
10 per cent of the proceeds of the sale of town lots, in the seat of justice of such county, 
for the use of a public library therein. 

Article 10th prohibits the incorporation of any other banks than the state bank 
and its branches. 



David Baillie Warden. 229 

persons, (negroes, mulattoes, and Indians excepted,) resident 
in the state, between the age of eighteen and forty-five years 
except such as are exempted by the laws of the state, or of the 
United States; those who are conscientiously averse to bearing 
arms, paying an equivalent. The captains and subalterns are 
elected by the companies; and the non-commissioned officers are 
appointed by the captains. Majors are elected by the battalions, 
and colonels by the regiments. Brigadier-generals are elected by 
the commissioned officers within the bounds of their respective 
brigades; and major-generals by the commissioned officers within 
the bounds of their respective divisions. The adjutants-general 
and quarter-masters-general are appointed by the governor; and 
also his aids-de-camp. Majors-general appoint their aids-de-camp, 
and all other division staff officers; brigadier-generals, their 
brigades-major; and colonels, their regimental staff officers. All 
militia officers are commissioned by the governor, and hold their 
commission during good behaviour, or till the age of sixty. 

The seat of government is established at Corydon, in Harrison 
county, until the year 1825, and until removed by law. No per- 
son can hold more than one lucrative office at the same time, unless 
expressly permitted by the constitution. The following are the 
salaries fixed for the officers of government till the year 1819: 
The governor, 1,000 dollars; the secretary of state, 400; auditor 
of public accounts, 400; treasurer, 400; judges of the supreme 
court, 800 each; presidents of the circuit courts, 800. Members 
of the general assembly are allowed two dollars per day, during 
their attendance, and the same sum for every twenty-five miles 
they shall severally travel, in the usual route, to and from the 
assembly. After 1819, their pay is to be fixed by a new law. 

Mounds. — A number of Mounds are seen from White river to 
the sources of the Wabash. Around Harrison village, in Frank- 
lin county, they are numerous, of very unequal size, and evidently 
formed at different and remote periods. On the largest, which 
are from ten to thirty feet high, trees are seen to grow of as great a 
size, and apparently as old, as any of the same species in the 
woods. The smaller mounds have no greater elevation than from 
two to five feet above the surface, and the trees which grow upon 
them are yet of small dimensions, indicating a growth of not 
more than 100 years. The bones which they inclose are still cap- 
able of supporting their own weight and of being removed, while 
those of the large mounds are so decomposed, that they are reduced 
to dust by the slightest touch. In a field, belonging to Mr. Allan, 



230 Early Travels in Indiana. 

there is one sixty feet in diameter at the base, and twenty in height, 
full of the remains of human bones. Mr. Brown relates,* that, on 
the borders of White Water, he examined the interior structure of 
fifteen or twenty of these mounds, from ten to fifteen feet in height, 
and did not find more than four or five skeletons. In one none was 
found. Others were so full, that they probably contained the 
remains of a hundred skeletons. 

Agriculture. — The soil is well adapted to maize, wheat, oats, 
rye, hemp, and tobacco. On the best lands the average produce 
of Indian corn is said to be from fifty to sixty bushels' per acre; 
that of wheat about fifty, the bushel weighing fifty-eight pounds. 
In many places the land is too rich for this grain; which, though 
it does not become smutty, is not so good as in the state of New 
York. It is never killed, however, by the cold in winter. 

The culture of the vine has been successfully introduced by a 
colony of Swiss emigrants, established at New Switzerland. In 
the year 1811, 2,700 gallons of wine were produced from a sur- 
face of twenty acres, and is found to be of a good quality. The 
grapes which have succeeded best are those from the Cape of Good 
Hope and the island of Madeira. Those of the country give wine 
of a tolerable good quality. Hutchins remarked, "that grapes, 
with a thin black skin, grow in the greatest abundance, of which 
the inhabitants in the interior make a sufficient quantity of well- 
tasted red wine for their own consumption." "That large and 
good hops are found in many places, and the lands are particularly 
adapted to the cultivation of rice. All European fruits, apples, 
peaches, pears, cherries, currants, gooseberries, melons, &c. , 
thrive well. Cotton and the sweet potatoe are cultivated in the 
southern parts. The country is admirably fitted for rearing cattle 
and swine, having great abundance of acorns and roots on which 
they feed. The animals which are most injurious to agriculture 
in this prolific country are squirrels, moles, and mice. The mole is 
particularly so in meadows and corn fields, where the grain begins 
to shoot." 

Finances. — According to the treasurer's report, the receipts 
into the treasury for the year 1817 amounted to 28,234 dollars 46 
cents; the disbursements to 20,605 dollars 33 cents; balance 7,629 
dollars 13 cents. 

Price of Land. — In 1792 the French inhabitants of Vincennes 
gave their lands in exchange for goods, at the rate of thirty cents 
an acre. They were sold in 1796 at two dollars. The tract called 

♦Western Gazetteer, p. 57. 



David Baillie Warden. 231 

"Harrison's Purchase," situated between the White river, Wabash, 
and Rocky river, and containing upwards of 3,000,000 of acres, 
was sold from four to thirty dollars an acre, after the reservation 
of the most fertile parts, given as a donation to the officers who 
had served on the Niagara frontier. The lands of the settlement 
of New Switzerland were purchased at two dollars, in 1805; 
the lands of Harrison village, on the north side of White Water, 
are valued at between forty and sixty dollars an acre. In the town 
of Vincennes building lots sell at from 50 to 1,000 dollars a lot. 
The land offices in this state are, one at Vincennes, on the Wabash, 
the other at Jeffersonville, on the Ohio. 

In general, improved lands, or farms of fifteen or twenty acres, 
with a log-house, can be purchased from eight to ten dollars an 
acre.* 

The manufactures, in 1810, amounted to 196,532 dollars, besides 
doubtful articles, valued at 61,108 dollars. 

Woolen, cotton, hempen and flaxen cloths $159 , 052 . 00 

Cotton and wool spun in mills 150 . 00 

1,380 spinning wheels 

1,256 looms 

Nails, pounds 20,000 4,000.00 

Leather tanned 9,300.00 

28 distilleries 16,230.00 

Wine from grapes, barrels 96 6,000.00 

Gunpowder 1 ,800.00 

33 flour mills 

14 saw mills 

Maple sugar, pounds 50,000 

The Harmonists, established at Harmoney, cultivate the vine, 
exercise various mechanical arts, and have an extensive wool 
manufactory. Their Merino cloth is excellent. 

Commerce. — The external trade of this colony is carried on with 
New Orleans, and is yet very inconsiderable. Goods are brought 
from Canada, down the* Wabash; from the eastermost states, 
down the Ohio; and from New Orleans, by the Mississippi and 

♦Prices at Brookville, in December 1817. — Beef 4 to 5 cents per pound; corn, 25 
cents per bushel; wheat, 62 cents ditto; fowls, 1 dollar per dozen; eggs, 6| cents ditto; 
pork, 3 to 4 cents per pound; butter 19 cents ditto. 

Prices at Princetown, in August, 1817. — Wheat, 3s. 4£ d. sterling per Winchester 
bushel; Is. 4d. ; Indian corn, lid. ; hay, 35s. per ton; flour, 36s. per barrel, 196 lb. net; 
fowls, 4|d. each; eggs, §d. ; butter, 6d. per pound; meat, 2d.; a buck, 4s. 6d. without 
the skin; salt, 3s. 4d per bushel; tobacco, 3d. per pound; a good cow, 12 to 20 dollars; 
a two year old heifer, 6 dollars; ewes, 3 dollars a-head; a sow, 3 dollars, a stout horse 
for drawing, 60 dollars or upwards. Boarding in a tavern, 2 dollars per week. Travell- 
ing expences are very regular, amounting to a dollar per day for a man and horse. 
Birkbeck's Notes, p. 143. 



232 Early Travels in Indiana. 

up the Wabash. One branch of this last river forms a communi- 
cation with the river St. Joseph, and another with the eastern- 
most branch of the Miami of the Lakes, through which there is a 
passage to Lake Erie, with the exception of a short portage. 

Forts. — Fort Harrison, situated on the Wabash, river, has a 
garrison of 150 riflemen, of the regular army. Fort Dearborn 
stands upon the left bank of Chicago river, which empties itself 
into Lake Michigan, on the south-western extremity. Its garrison 
was destroyed, in September 1815, [August 15, 1812] by the Pot- 
to watamie Indians, but has been since re-established. Fort 
Wayne, at the confluence of the St. Joseph's and St. Mary's river, 
near the north-eastern angle of the State. 

Roads. — From Vincennes two roads lead to the Ohio, a third to 
Fort Harrison, a fourth to Princetown, and a fifth to Kaskaskia. 

Newspapers. — At Brookville, "The Plain Dealer"; at Vevay, 
"The Indiana Register"; at Lexington, "The Western Eagle"; 
at Corydon, "The Indiana Gazette"; at Vincennes, "The West- 
ern Sun". 

Manners and Character. — Indiana is but recently settled; but 
many of the settlers are of a respectable class, and their manners 
are more refined than could be expected in a place where society is 
but in its infancy. They are sober and industrious; drunken- 
ness is rare, and quarrelling rare in proportion. They set a high 
value on the right of personal resistance to aggression. They pos- 
sess great energy of character; and, though they respect the laws 
generally, do not hesitate sometimes to redress what they consider 
a public injury, by a more summary mode of proceeding. They 
are, however, friendly and obliging. Insanity is scarcely known, 
either in this or the other western states. The inhabitants of 
Vincennes, who are chiefly of French extraction, are neat and 
cleanly, and still retain strong traces of French good breeding. 

Religion. — The number of Baptists, the denomination which 
prevails in Indiana, was stated in the general report of May 1817 
to be 2,474; the number of churches, 67. We have not been able 
to ascertain the number belonging to other sects. 

History. — When the French descended the Wabash, and estab- 
lished posts on its borders, it was inhabited by different Indian 
nations, the Kickapoos, Pyankashaws, Musquitons, Ouitanons, 
and others, whose warriors amounted to upwards of 1,200, and, 
according to French tradition, they were once far more numer- 
ous. It is said, that the country lying between the Wabash and 



David Baillie Warden. 233 

Mississippi being claimed by the Indians of both these rivers, it 
was mutually agreed, that it should become the prize of the vic- 
tors, in an engagement between 1,000 warriors of each, who fought 
from the rising to the setting sun, when the former were declared 
conquerors, having seven men surviving, while the other had but 
five. The ground on which Fort Harrison stands was the theatre 
of this bloody scene; the bodies of the slain were inclosed in the 
neighbouring mounds. The French colonists, long after their first 
establishments in this country, lived on terms of friendship with 
the Indian proprietors of the soil; formed marriages with their 
women, joined in their hunting parties, and lived contented with 
the produce of the chace, of their cattle, and gardens. But, in the 
year 1782, a detachment of soldiers from Kentucky penetrated to 
their villages, plundered them, and carried off many of their 
cattle. The year following, peace ensued, and they came under 
the protection of the United States. 

During the period of war with the Indians, which commenced 
in 1788, they suffered many vexations, and were obliged to per- 
form military services of a severe nature. 

By the treaty of Greenville, in 1795, the United States obtained 
six miles square at the mouth of Chicago river; the same quantity 
at the junction of the St. Mary's and St. Joseph's; one half of this 
extent at the head of the Little river branch of the Wabash, eight 
miles southwest of Fort Wayne ; and six miles square at the Weeaw 
town (Ouitanon) on the river Wabash; other cessions were at the 
same time made without the limits of this state. For all which, 
the Pottawatamies were to receive, for their share of recompense, 
goods to the amount of 1,000 dollars; and the Kickapoos, Pian- 
kashaws, Weaws, and Elk river tribes, 500 each. In 1804, the 
Delawares and Piankashaws sold a large tract bordering on the 
Ohio; and, in 1805, another extensive tract was ceded by the 
Miami, Eel river, and Weeaw Indians, which, including a former 
cession around Vincennes in 1794, comprehended a tract of 130 
miles in length, and fifty in breadth, extending from the Ohio river 
to the western limits. Another tract was ceded in 1809, by the 
Delawares, Pottowatamies, Miami, and Eel river tribes, including 
the south-western parts to above the fortieth degree of latitude. 
Notwithstanding these cessions, the contracting Indian parties 
were always hostile. In 1791, they were attacked by General 
Wilkinson, who destroyed the principal town of the Shawenese, 
near the mouth of the Tippacanoe, containing 120 houses. They 



234 Early Travels in Indiana. 

were attacked on the 7th of November 1811, about 100 miles 
above Vincennes, by a detachment of American troops, under Gen- 
eral Harrison, who destroyed the town of their celebrated Prophet. 
In September 1813, four of their towns, at the forks of the Wabash, 
were burnt by the same officer. 



From Narrative of Richard Lee Mason in the Pioneer west 
[1819], pp. 33-39. Published by Chas. Fred 
Heartman, (by permission of the publisher). 

Mason, Richard Lee. 

Dr. Richard Lee Mason, a Marylander, who served with the "White 
Horseman" cavalry in the war of 1812, was awarded a large tract of bounty 
land near Alton, Illinois. In order to locate this, he made a journey from 
Pennsylvania to Illinois in 1819. He traveled through Pennsylvania, Ohio, 
Kentucky and Indiana. He was so well pleased with the "promised land" 
of the west that he sent for his family, moved to St. Louis, Mo., and took up 
a medical practice. Dr. Mason was a remarkably intelligent observer, as 
is evidenced by his journals. 

Tuesday, Nov. 3. — Remained in Louisville Monday and part 
of today. Left Aleen's the 2d. Passed through Shipping Port, 
on the bank of the Ohio, two and one-half miles below Louisville. 
A very promising little village. Twelve or thirteen steamboats 
lying at this place aground, owing to the unusual drought. Curi- 
osity induced me to go on board the largest steamboat in the 
world, lying at this place. She is called the United States, and is 
owned by a company of gentlemen. I have taken down her 
dimensions: Length of keel, 165 feet 8 inches; depth of hold, 11 
feet 3 inches; breadth of beam and girder, 56 feet; length on deck, 
176 feet 8 inches; breadth of beam without girder, 37 feet. This 
mammoth boat has eight boilers and elegant accommodations for 
a large number of passengers. Many of the steamships lying at 
this place are built on improved plans and are very handsome. We 
crossed the Ohio at a point where it is three-quarters of a mile 
wide. Passed through New Albany, Ind., a little village inhabited 
by tavern-keepers and mechanics. Traveled to Miller's, a dis- 
tance of six miles over the knobs. Country very much broken. 
Some steep hills and sugar-loaf knobs. The woods being on 
fire, a scene truly sublime presented itself at night. The lands 
indifferent. Weather warm and dry. Passed many travelers 
bound to the west, and met three or four wagons with families 
returning from the promised land. Slept in a house without glass 
in the windows and no fastenings to the doors. The inhabitants 
imprudent and lazy beyond example. Supped on cabbage, turnips, 
pickles, beets, beefsteak made of pickled beef, rye coffee and sage 
tea. The people of Indiana differ widely from Kentuckians in 

(235) 



236 Early Travels in Indiana. 

habits, manners and even dialect. Whilst hospitality, politeness 
and good sense characterize Kentuckians, ignorance, impudence 
and laziness has stamped the Indianians. 

Wednesday, Nov. 3, 1819. — Left Miller's tavern at 7 o'clock 
and arrived at Squire Chambers' at 6 o'clock, after traveling a 
distance of thirty-six miles. Passed a trifling village, Fredericks- 
burg; also Greenville. A poor, barren, deserted country. For 
ten miles, stony, poor, mountainous and naked. Land a little 
better. Miserable huts, poor accommodations, cabin, taverns, and 
high charges. Crossed Blue river. Every man his own hostler 
and steward. Plenty of game — deer, turkeys, etc. Inhabitants 
generally possess a smaller share of politeness than any met with 
before. 

Thursday, Nov. 4. — Left Squire Chambers' (who is only mem- 
ber of the assembly, by the by) at 7 o'clock a. m. Arrived at 
Lewis' at 6 o'clock, a distance of twenty-five miles. Passed a 
little village called Peola. The fact that this part of Indiana 
is a late purchase by the United States, accounts for its towns being 
so inconsiderable and being made up of log houses. The lands 
here are very fertile, the country mountainous and broken. 
Traveled twenty-five miles through woods and passed but four 
houses. With great difficulty obtained water for our horses. In 
the midst of one of those long and thick pieces of woods, we passed 
one of the most miserable huts ever seen — a house built out of 
slabs without a nail ; the pieces merely laid against a log pen such 
as pigs are commonly kept in, a dirt floor, no chimney. Indeed, 
the covering would be a bad one in the heat of summer, and, 
unfortunately, the weather at this time is very severe for the sea- 
son of the year. This small cabin contained a young and inter- 
esting female and her two shivering and almost starving chil- 
dren, all of whom were bareheaded and with their feet bare. There 
was a small bed, one blanket and a few potatoes. One cow and 
one pig (who appeared to share in their misfortunes) completed 
the family, except for the husband, who was absent in search of 
bread. Fortunately for the dear little children, we had in our 
carriage some bread, cheese, toddy, etc., which we divided with 
them with much heartfelt satisfaction. In this situation the 
woman was polite, smiled and appeared happy. She gave us water 
to drink, which had been refused to us by persons on the road 
several times during the day. What a lesson for many of the 
unhappy ladies that inhabit large cities, whose husbands are slaves 
to procure all the luxuries of life, a fine house, carpeted floors, 



Richard Lee Mason. 237 

elegant furniture, fine carriages and horses, gay and cheerful com- 
pany, and a smooth brick pavement or marble to walk upon! 
Yet they are too often dissatisfied, and are sighing for that which 
cannot be obtained. Could they but contrast their situation with 
this ragged, suffering and delicate female, they would have just 
cause to be happy, and would be under the strong conviction that 
Providence does not interfere with the common affairs of this life. 
Traveled over excellent lands not taken up which could be 
cleared with very little labor. 

Friday, Nov. 5. — Left Mr. Sears' at 7 o'clock, after having 
slept in a cabin with three wagons. My friend and self treated 
civilly by the family. The house not close enough to keep the 
cats and dogs out. Traveled over an extremely mountainous coun- 
try to White river (east fork) , where a town was laid out last May. 
Promising little place. Several houses building together, with the 
industrious appearance of saw and grist mills, give it the appear- 
ance of a place of business. Little town is called Hindoostan. 
In this part of the country the woods are large, the hills bold and 
lofty, and there is an abundance of bears, wolves, wildcats, 
panthers, etc. Thousands of acres of land of the first quality are 
unsettled and to be purchased at from $2.50 to $5 an acre. In 
crossing White river we had to descend a very steep precipice 
above the falls, in effecting which my friend, Dr. Hill, who hap- 
pened to be driving our little carriage, was thrown headfore- 
most into the river. Part of our baggage followed him, and the 
carriage was very near upsetting. However, we forded this ele- 
gant stream, which is 200 yards wide, without much difficulty. 
After halting a few minutes on the bank to examine our bruises 
and adjust our baggage, we proceeded on our journey. Traveled a 
distance of eighteen miles to the west branch of White river, which 
we forded without risk, the bottom being hard and rocky. Trav- 
eled over a fertile country four miles to Steenz, making a distance 
of thirty-four miles. At this dirty hovel, with one room and a 
loft, formed by placing boards about three inches apart, ten 
travelers slept. There were thirteen in family, besides two calves, 
making in all, with my friend and self, twenty-three whites, one 
negro and two calves. 

Saturday, Nov. 6. — Supped on pumpkins, cabbages, rye coffee 
without sugar, bones of venison, salted pickles, etc. — all in the 
midst of crying children, dirt, filth and misery. The last enter- 
tainment made the first serious unfavorable impression on my 
mind relative to the west. Traveled six miles to breakfast and to 



238 Early Travels in Indiana. 

entertain an idea of starving. No water, no food fit to eat, dusty 
roads and constantly enveloped in a cloud of smoke, owing to the 
woods and prairies being on fire for 100 miles. Breakfasted on 
sound provisions for a rarity and felt a little refreshed. This part 
of Indiana is rich and valuable. Corn and oats 50 cents a bushel.' 
My good little horse being sick, my usual flow of spirits commenced 
a retreat. However, they were soon rallied again after a few long 
sighs for those that are dear and far* from me. Arrived at Vin- 
cennes, on the Wabash, a bold and handsome river, the size of the 
Schuylkill. Vincennes, an ancient town, is small, ugly and meanly 
built, although beautifully situated. Its inhabitants are French, 
Americans, Indians — and, in short, persons from the four corners 
of the earth. Indian mounds or small round hills are common 
in this country. They are believed to be the work of art, and from 
bones and so forth which have been found in them are supposed 
to have been receptacles for the dead, when none but the foot- 
steps of the savage was to be traced in these forests. We are now 
within a few miles of the Shakers and Harmonites, whom we intend 
to visit and give a correct account of. Very much revived this 
day, having lived well. Necessity is often the mother of inven- 
tion. Yolk of egg, flour and water mixed is a good substitute for 
milk, and is often used in coffee in this country. Rye is frequently 
substituted for coffee and sage tea in place of the imperial. 

Sunday, Nov. 7. — Left Vincennes at 7 o'clock. Crossed the 
meandering stream, Wabash, into Illinois. 



From Indiana Gazette, Corydon, March 6, 1819, p. 2. 

To the Editors of the Indiana Republican. 

Vernon, Feb. 16, 1819. 
Gentlemen. 

Capt. Campbell and myself have just returned from an excur- 
sion made into the Delaware Lands, and should you consider the 
following sketch worth an insertion in your paper, for the amuse- 
ment of your readers, the information of emigrants, and persons 
wishing to explore these lands, it will gratify some of your readers. 

We travelled the new cut road from this place to Geneva, 
(on Sandy) a new town laid out on the old Indian boundary line, 
about 8 miles from this place in a N. W. direction, we then took a 
new cut road (opened to Flat Rock, sufficient for waggons) which 
bears nearly N. 45 W. The first stream we crossed after leaving 
Persors mill, on Sandy, is called little Sandy; the second, Leather- 
wood; the third Fallen Timber Creek; all appropriate names. 
We next passed a remarkable Beaver clam, in which the ingenuity 
of these animals is wonderfully exhibited. The 4th stream is flat 
creek, the 5th Deer Creek, 6th Crooked creek, all of which streams 
will answer for light machinery, and run to the S. W. the bottom is 
generally gravelly and water very clear. — We next came to a 
stream known by the name of Clifty, sufficient for any kind of 
water works, and about 10 miles distant in the new purchase. I 
think, without exaggeration, that every quarter section 
that may be laid out in this ten miles, will be fit for culti- 
vation and will be settled; the lands are of a black, sandy quality, 
timbered with Black Ash and Beach, principally. The general 
face of that country is rather inclined to a plain, with the hol- 
lows rather wet. The lands on Clifty are very rich and well tim- 
bered on both sides of the stream, with Blue Ash, Walnut, Sugar 
Tree, Honey Locust, Beach, &c. &c. 

After crossing this stream we came to a most beautiful wal- 
nut ridge about 1 and a half miles N. of Clifty. We next crossed 
Middle Creek; then Grassy Creek, then Tough Creek, Stillwater 
and Pleasant Run, all of which are small mill streams, running to 
the S. W. some of which have very muddy bottoms, and lie 
between Clifty and Flat Rock, at the distance of 7 miles; in this 7 
miles the lands are principally very rich and level, the vallies rather 

(239) 



240 Early Travels in Indiana. 

wet, timbered principally with Oak, Black Ash, Walnut, Sugar 
Tree, Poplar, Hickory &c. until we came to the lands immediately 
on Flat Rock; these lands exhibit a scenery I never expected to see 
in Indiana; they resembled the rich lands on the two Elk horns in 
Kentucky, for richness and timber, and to appearances abound on 
both sides of the stream, which has a gravel bottom and is about 80 
yards wide. On the north side of the creek we found only one 
stream (Sugar Creek) until we arrived at Driftwood (Blue River) 
about 8 miles in a S. W. direction from where we crossed Flat 
Rock, the lands between these two streams are level and very dry, 
timbered with White Oak, Black Oak, Walnut, Honey Locust, 
&c, underbrush, spicewood, dogwood and hazel. We found beau- 
tiful, rich and level lands on both sides of Driftwood, and well 
timbered; The river (by counting our horses steps was 180 yards) 
wide where we crossed it. I think there are very few springs in 
this country, but believe water may be had with very little labour. 
To sum up my views on the subject, I am of the opinion that if 
Jefferson county would make a good highway in the direction to 
this place, (individuals of this county have taken measures to 
make a good highway for our country without delay, suited to the 
direction, and Madison) that Madison would be the key on the 
Ohio river to one of the best tracts of country I have ever seen in 
this state, and a delay will speedily bring forward some other 
point, as the country is now settled. We met two families and 
teams on the road to this Eden. 

Yours, With esteem, 

John Vawter. 



From Indiana Gazette, Corydon, March 2, 1820, pp. 1-2. 

Letter from Capt. James Riley, to the Editor of the 
Philadelihia Union. 

Fort Wayne, Indiana, November 24, 1819. 

Having concluded my surveys for this season, and wish- 
ing to view the country between St. Mary's and Miami Rivers, to 
examine for myself the practicability of so uniting the Wabash 
with the Miami as to render intercourse by water safe and easy 
between the Ohio and Lake Erie, through the channel, &c. &c; 
I set out yesterday, from Shane's Crossing, on the St. Mary's, 
and travelling thro' a district of good land, on or near the right 
bank of that river, forty miles, reached this place early in the 
evening; and early this morning I set off to look at the junction of 
the St. Joseph's and St. Mary's which forms the Miami river. 

The St. Joseph's river rising in Michigan territory, runs south- 
westerly about 200 miles, receiving in its course several tributary 
streams; and the St. Mary's rising in Shelby county, Ohio, runs 
northwesterly more than 200 miles, including its meanderings — 
when forming a junction nearly from opposite points, the river 
turns suddenly south and assumes the name of Miami of the 
Lakes, or as pronounced by the French Maume; then turning 
gradually round again, these congregated waters flow off in a 
northeast direction about 200 miles, following the course of the 
river to the southwest end of Lake Erie. 

Fort Wayne stands on a bluff just below the junction and on 
the right bank of the Miami; its situation is admirable, chosen by 
a general in whom were united the greatest personal courage and 
intrepidity; and the most consumate prudence and skill in con- 
ducting and supporting an army. Amidst forests and morasses, 
separated from the inhabited parts of the country by a dreary 
and extensive wilderness; surrounded on all sides by hosts of sav- 
age enemies, flushed by a recent and great victory over the unfor- 
tunate Gen. St. Clair. 

The gigantic mind of General Wayne, created resources, as he 
went along, baffling the skill and cunning of his enemy, with 
astonishing industry and activity. He cut roads and marched 
his troops to the important points which he seized. With an unerr- 
ing military eye, and profound judgment, he selected and fortified 

T— 16 (241) 



242 Early Travels in Indiana. 

such posts, and such only as would inevitably secure his conquests, 
and afford the most sure protection to his army and our exten- 
sive frontier settlements. At every step in this country, every 
unprejudiced mind, will more and more admire the movements 
and achievements of the army conducted by this veteran, and 
truly wise and great General. 

By occupying Fort Wayne, the communication between Lake 
Erie and the Ohio through the channel of the Maume and the 
Wabash, (which is the shortest and most direct water route from 
Buffalo to the Mississippi river) was cut off or completely com- 
manded. 

The Wabash River, which rises in Ohio, runs north past Fort 
Recovery, enters Indiana, about 10 miles from that post, and con- 
tinuing its course northwestwardly, approaches Fort Wayne 
within 18 miles, when it turns more to the southwest, running 
diagonally across the state of Indiana, and receiving in its course 
numerous important tributary streams, until it reaches the line 
that separates Indiana from Illinois, in lat. 40; thence meander- 
ing into Illinois and back into Indiana in a southerly direction, dis- 
charges its waters into the Ohio river. 

The Little Wabash rises in an elevated swamp prairie, 6 miles 
south of Fort Wayne, and joins the Wabash 18 miles from thence 
— thus in high stages of the water a portage of only six miles, car- 
ries merchandize from the head of the Maume, into the navigable 
waters of the Wabash, and vice versa; from whence floating with 
the current, it may either supply the interior wants of the coun- 
try, or proceed to New Orleans or Lake Erie. 

Through a part of the above mentioned swamp, which is very 
extensive, a canal might very easily be cut, six miles long, unit- 
ing the Wabash to the St. Mary's a little above its junction; and 
from what I saw and learned from others, it is my opinion that the 
swamp might afford water sufficient for purposes of canal naviga- 
tion. 

By the treatise of 1817 and '18 (mentioned in a former letter) 
lands in the state of Indiana, to the amount of from four to six 
millions of acres (lying principally on the left bank of the Wabash, 
and extending from the new line N. W. of Wayne, and South 
and West to former purchases) were ceded to the U. States. 

These lands are charmingly situated in point of climate; their 
soil is mostly of the very first quality — the country is well watered 
and well timbered, and lying on and near the Wabash, enjoys 
immense advantages. Emigrants from the Northern and Eastern 



Corydon, Indiana, Gazette. 243 

states, to this section of the country, as well as the new purchase in 
Ohio; will find it to be their interest and their comfort too, to go 
to Buffalo, and up the lake to Fort Meigs, 28 miles within the 
Maume Bay, and from thence up that river to the mouth of the 
Auglaze or Fort Wayne, and so on to their place of destination. 
Early in the spring of the year is the best time for emigration that 
way, as the streams are then full, and they will find an easy and 
sure navigation, even in its present unimpared state. 

The country around Fort Wayne is very fertile; the situation 
is commanding and healthy, and here will rise a town of great 
importance, which must become an immense depot. 

The Fort is now only a small stockade; no troops are stationed 
here and less than thirty dwelling houses, occupied by French and 
American families, form the whole settlement, but as soon as the 
land shall be surveyed and offered for sale, inhabitants will pour 
from all quarters into this future thoroughfare, between New 
York and the Mississippi, Missouri, &c. &c. 

The unlooked for progress of that stupendous work, the New 
York Grand Canal, a work of the most momentous consequences 
to the people of the western country, and to the Union of the 
United States, whereby the countries bordering on the Lakes are 
to be bound by the strongest of all ties, interest, to the Atlantic 
states, electrifies the citizens of this country, who now behold 
themselves transported, as it were, with their rich possessions near 
the ocean, and already bless its proprietors and supporters. 



From An historical, topographical and descriptive view of 
the United States of America, and of upper and 
lower Canada, by E. Mackenzie [1820], pp. 208- 
210. 

Mackenzie, Eneas. 

Unlike most of the other accounts, this work of Mr. Mackenzie's makes 
no attempt to force his own personal observations upon the reader, but 
simply presents in a well organized manner, the best historical and descrip- 
tive material that could be found concerning the New World. Mr. Mac- 
kenzie was by training a journalist and an historian. He had produced a 
history of Egj^pt; a history of Northumberland; a modern Geography, etc., 
and was in position to readily judge the value of authentic material. His 
work abounds with numerous letters written by people who were residents of 
America or who had visited here. These views are arranged in an interesting 
style, and the seven hundred and more pages contain one of the best accounts 
published during the first quarter of the last century. 

INDIANA. 

Situation and, Extent. Indiana is situated between north lat. 
37 deg. 47 min. and 41 deg. 50 min., and west long. 7 deg. 40 
min. and 10 deg. 45 min. Its greatest length is 284 miles, and its 
breadth 155. Its area is 38,000 square miles, or 24,320,000 
acres. 

Natural Geography. — The face of the country is hilly, not 
mountainous; and the scenery is said to be rich and variegated, 
abounding with plains and large prairies. 

The principal river is the Wabash, which is said to be a 
beautiful stream, 280 yards broad at its outlet, and navigable 
upwards of 220 miles. It rises near the boundary line between 
the state of Ohio and Indiana, about 100 miles from lake Erie, 
where there is a portage of only eight miles between it and the 
Miami of the lakes. Its course is nearly south-west, and the dis- 
tance it runs, including its windings, is not less than 500 miles. A 
great many tributary streams flow into it, the chief of which is 
White river, upwards of 200 miles long. Tippacanoe river, near 
which are the largest settlements of Indians in the territory, falls 
into the Wabash; and it is near the outlet of that river where the 
Prophet is at present collecting his forces. 

The soil is said to be generally rich and fertile. The climate is 
delightful, except in the neighbourhood of marshes, chiefly con- 
fined to the lower parts of the territory. 



Eneas Mackenzie. 245 

The settlements commenced about 22 or 23 years ago, and 
have made considerable progress, though they have been retarded 
by the settlement of the fertile and beautiful state of Ohio, which 
is situated between this and the old states. The greater part of 
the territory is yet subject to Indian claims. Where they have 
been extinguished, and the white settlements have been made, it 
is divided into four counties, and 22 townships, the greater part 
of which are on the Ohio; and some few on the Wabash and White- 
water river. The inhabitants amounted, by the census of 1800, 
to 5,641; they now amount to 86,734, being an increase of 81,093 
in 17 years. 

The agriculture of the territory is nearly the same as that of 
the state of Ohio. Every kind of grain, grass, and fruit comes to 
maturity; and towards the southern part of it considerable crops of 
cotton are raised, though only for domestic use. 

Towns. — The principal town is Vincennes, on the Wabash. 
It is an old settlement, and the inhabitants are mostly of French 
extraction; they amounted, by last census, to 670. 

Trade. — As the inhabitants make nearly all their own cloth- 
ing, they have little external trade. What little they have is 
down the river to New Orleans. 

Government. — The constitution or government in this new 
country is similar to that of the other neighbouring states, — excel- 
lent in theory, but too often vile and corrupt in practice. It 
declares, in pompous language, that all men are free; but if their 
skins-'be black, they are not included in this declaration, slaves 
being necessary for the ease and comfort of the freemen of Indiana. 

We will now proceed to view the Southern States of the Union, 
agreeably to the arrangement we have adopted. 



From Journal of a tour to Fort Wayne and the adjacent 
country, in the year 1821, by the Author. 

Teas, Thomas Scattergood. 

The author of this journal, which has never before been published, was 
born in Philadelphia, Pa., in 1796. He was well educated for his day and 
was a German and French scholar. He early developed an inclination to 
see the country and study nature at first hand. In his twentieth year he 
traveled on foot from Philadelphia to the Delaware Water Gap. He con- 
tinued his tramp to New York City, which he describes as vastly inferior to 
Philadelphia in buildings and public spirit in general. 

His next tramp was to Indiana by way of Niagara Falls, and the next 
year he traveled on foot from Philadelphia to Indiana by way of Pittsburgh. 

"Brother Charles" Teas, mentioned at the beginning of this journal, 
lived eight miles north of Richmond, Indiana. 

2nd day 7th month 9th, I sat off from my brother Charles 
completely equipped for a journey in the wilderness, and with 
three clay's provisions — crossed the West fork of White-water, 
here about 2 yards wide, and came on 14 miles to the. edge of the 
settlement — entered the wilderness at half past 12 o'clock — . 
passed several dry channels of creeks, but not one running stream, 
till I reached the Massissiniway river. This stream is about 3 
yards wide here, and very shallow. It flows about West — Soon 
after crossing it, I discovered a clearing, , and finding a settler 
there, I put up with him; distance 30 miles — course due North — 
Here I was regaled with cold sour Indian bread and milk. 

10th After passing the principal part of the night in continual 
warfare with myriads of fleas, I was compelled to retreat from the 
field, or rather bed of battle, about two hours before daybreak, 
and got a little sleep in a chair. A little before sunrise it began to 
rain, and continued pouring down till 7 o'clock, when having taken 
breakfast of the same delicate fare which constituted my supper, 
and paying 50 cents for what my host was pleased to call my "enter- 
tainment"; I departed, not much prepossessed in favour of the life 
of a frontier settler. The rain has made it very unpleasant travel- 
ling the soil being very mellow, the mud is ancle deep, and the 
dripping bushes soon wet me above the middle. The musquitoes 
and gnats are as numerous here as along the sea shore, and are very 
troublesome. About 8 'clock the sun shone out — hardly ever more 
welcome to me, arrived at the Wabash at 5 o'clock, P. M. This 
is a beautiful river, about 7 yards wide, flowing W. N. West. 

(246) 



Thomas Scattergood Teas. 247 

Here I halted to rest, and by sitting in the smoke of a fire which I 
kindled, made out to keep off the musquitoes at the risk of suffo- 
cation. The remains of Indian hunting camps are numerous along 
the road. The principal game that are found here are deer — 
there are also plenty of wolves. Their tracks, and those of deer, 
are every where to be seen in the mud. I have not seen many bear 
tracks. After resting myself, I came on till sunset, and was look- 
ing out for a convenient place to encamp, when I discovered an 
opening ahead, and soon entered on a beautiful prairie, overgrown 
with high grass, and terminating in a thick wood. At the distance 
of about half a mile, I saw a cabin, and on reaching it was received 
with kindness. This prairie is about 40 miles long, and from 
i to 15 miles wide. Its long grass, waving in the wind, bears 
some resemblance to the waves of the sea in a light breeze. Like 
most other prairies, the water on it is bad, and fevers and agues 
must be the companions of those who settle on it. The man at 
whose house I stopped, has four of his family sick. He dug 
a well 36 feet deep, in hopes of procuring good water, but has failed 
of success. The water is the most curious I ever saw. It is 
of a pale blue colour, strongly impregnated with sulphur, and has 
the smell of burnt gunpowder. He told me that it curdles milk 
almost instantaneously. Course to the Wabash due North, thence 
N. N. West — distance 30 miles. 

11th Came on through a flat level country abounding in hic- 
cory swamps, to the St. Mary's river, where I arrived at five 
o'clock. This is a handsome river, flowing about N. West with a 
slow current — it is about 25 yards wide — the road runs nearly 
parallel with it — three miles farther is the house of Robert Doug- 
lass, where I stopped. Course N. West, distance 15 miles. There 
was formerly an Indian village here — the ruins of 8 of the cabins 
are still visible. Douglas is building a raft of logs, to float down to 
Fort Wayne, and as he will be ready to start tomorrow, I accepted 
his invitation to accompany him. 

12th While we were at breakfast, a Miami Indian and his 
family consisting of his wife and one small child, came to the 
house. They were on their way up the river. Douglas held a 
broken conversation with them in the few words of their language 
he knew. I accosted him in English and French, but he shook 
his head. They breakfasted with us, and after breakfast we all 
went down to the river. The Indian had left his canoe near our 
raft. It was made of hickory bark, stripped from a log in one 
piece, about ten feet long, the ends sewed up with filaments of 



248 Early Travels in Indiana. 

bark, and the sides stiffened with ribs of wood sewed in the same 
manner. I was told that they would make a canoe in a couple of 
hours. The raft not being entirely finished, we set to work and by 
12 o'clock were ready to get under way. The crew consisted ot 
Douglas, commander, two men, and myself, passenger. We pro- 
ceeded slowly down, the river being low, for about half a mile, 
when Douglas sent the canoe (or long boat,) ahead to reconnoitre 
a ripple which was about half a mile farther, and it returned with a 
report that in consequence of the low stage of water, it would be 
impossible for us to pass it. There being no alternative but to 
wait for a rise of the river, we came too, and secured the raft to the 
shore, much to my satisfaction, as I had anticipated a tedious 
passage — returned to the house, and after taking in a supply of 
jerked venison, I sat off about 2 o'clock. About 6 miles further, I 
passed the remains of a large Indian hunting camp. About sun- 
set, having found a convenient place to encamp, and collected 
materials for my fire, I found that I had lost my tinder box. 
This was a serious loss — for though I had tinder and flints, I 
had no steel; and to lie down without a fire, would have been almost 
certain death on account of the wolves. The only chance of safety 
was to climb a tree. While I was looking for a convenient one, I 
heard the report of a gun at some distance, and soon after, of 2 
more: Supposing it to proceed from a hunting party of Indians, I 
pushed through the woods as rapidly as I could, and in about a 
quarter of a mile came to a clearing. Three or four young men 
(Indians,) were standing near the cabin, talking. As soon as they 
saw me, one of them gave a shout, and went into the cabin. Pres- 
ently after, an elderly man came out, and on my accosting him, 
came to me, and shook hands, which banished the uneasy sensa- 
tions I had felt at first for as I was alone and unarmed, their 
manner had given me some little alarm, though I still walked 
towards them and endeavored to conceal it. Finding that the 
elderly man spoke very broken English, I accosted him in French, 
which he spoke very fluently. He welcomed me to his house 
with such a friendly air, that I was soon at ease. I told him of the 
loss of my tinder box, and the predicament I was in, when I heard 
the firing. He said that it was his young men who had been out 
hunting, and congratulated me on the escape I had made. His 
name is La Fontaine; he is of French descent, and belongs to the 
Miami tribe. He has begun farming on a regular plan, after the 
manner of the whites. He has only been here since the 3rd 
month, and has erected a comfortable log cabin, with a bark one 



Thomas Scattergood Teas. 249 

adjoining, and cleared 6 acres, which is in very fine looking corn — 
he has deadened about 30 acres more. His house is pleasantly 
situated on the West bank of the St. Mary's. His family consists 
of his wife, her sister, and a little boy, about 8 years old, whom he 
has adopted, having no children of his own. The young men I 
saw, are hired to assist him in farming. Our supper was served up 
in a curious style. The table was set with a tin bucket of young 
Hyson tea, in which a proper proportion of sugar and milk were 
mixed, a tin basin of fried vension, another of butter, a third of 
wheat cakes, two tin cups, and two knives. My host made an 
apology for the want of forks, that they had not got into the 
way of using them yet. The provisions were excellent. After 
spending a very agreeable evening with him, I retired to sleep, 
on a deer skin, with a blanket covering — distance today 12 miles, 
course N. West. La Fontaine informed me that the Miami 
tribe amounts at present to 1,800 souls, and that their number is 
nearly stationary, there being about the same number killed in 
their drunken quarrels, as are born. Thirty have been killed in 
their quarrels with each other, since the first of the 5th mo. last. 
Their pension is 18,400 dollars, which is equally divided between 
men, women, and children. They receive this annuity at Fort 
Wayne, and but a small part of it is taken from there— the 
principal part being expended for whiskey. The laws of the U. 
S. for preventing the introduction of liquors among the Indians, 
though very severe, are ineffectual. The evidence of an Indian, 
even if they would give it for the detection of smugglers of whiskey, 
will not be taken in law, and the country is as yet such a wilder- 
ness, that the chances of detection are few. A person might remain 
in the woods within five or six miles of Fort Wayne, for a 
year, without being discovered by any white settler. It has been 
the custom of the traders to bring whiskey in kegs and hide it in 
the woods about half a mile from the fort, a short time previous 
to the time of paying the annuity, and when the Indians come to 
the fort, to give information to such of the young men as the trad- 
ers can confide in, that there is whiskey to be had at those places. 
These inform their comrades, and as soon as they receive their 
money, they go off in droves to the places appointed where they 
frequently buy it at two dollars a pint, till their money is gone, and 
then pawn their blankets, guns, bracelets, and other trinkets, till 
they are sometimes reduced to a state of nudity. In this manner 
the unprincipled traders evade the laws with impunity, and render 
all the efforts of the friends of civilization abortive. 



250 Early Travels in Indiana. 

13th After breakfasting with my hospitable host, I took leave of 
him, and proceeded on my journey. Four miles from his house, 
came to that of Rocheville, the principal chief of the Miamis. 
He has a very handsome farm, and lives in quite a genteel style. 
He was gone to Detroit, and neither his wife nor children speak- 
ing any language that I could understand, I made but short 
stay there, passed several Indian cabins, and entered on a large 
prairie which extended as far as I could see, crossed the St. Mary's, 
and soon after arrived at Fort Wayne. Distance 9 miles due West. 
The settlement at this place consisted of about 30 log cabins and 
two tolerably decent frame houses. It is situated on the Miami of 
Lake Erie, at the junction of the St. Joseph's and St. Mary's, 
which form the Miami. The inhabitants are nearly all French 
Canadians. The fort stands at the lower end of the village, and is 
composed of hewn log buildings about 35 feet high, and the inter- 
vals between them filled up with a double row of pickets, 20 
feet high. It is about 60 yards square. There is no garrison kept 
here, and the barracks are occupied by the Indian Agent, the 
Baptist missionary, and some private families. There is a school 
for the Indian children in the fort, under the auspices of the Bap- 
tist Society. It is conducted on the Lancasterian system; the 
teacher's name is Montgomery. On my arrival, as the school was 
the principal object of curiosity, I waited on the missionary, 
whose name is McKoy, and requested him to accompany me to 
it, which he did; and during my stay in fort Wayne, treated me 
with an attention as unexpected as it was gratifjdng. There are 
about forty scholars. It is pleasing to see the order in which the 
school is kept, and the delight that the scholars seem to take in 
their studies. There were two boys of the Pottowattomie tribe, 
who had only been 2 weeks at school, who were spelling in words 
of four letters. As soon as they begin to learn their letters, they 
are furnished with a slate, and form letters on it in imitation of 
printed type. About half the scholars were writing, and many of 
them write a very good hand. Their improvement is such as to 
remove all doubts as to their capacity. After spending a very 
agreeable afternoon here, I returned to the tavern. There are con- 
siderable numbers of Indians here, of the Pottawattomies, Shaw- 
anees, Miami, Utawas, and Delaware tribes. Notwithstanding the 
efforts of the Indian Agent to prevent the traders from selling 
whiskey to them, they still contrive to do it; I have seen as many 
as fifty of them drunk during my short stay here. They assemble 
in groups of ten or twelve, men and women promiscuously, 



Thomas Scattergood Teas. 251 

squat on the ground, and pass the canteen rapidly round, and sing, 
whoop, and halloo, all laughing and talking at once, with the most 
horrible contortions of the countenance; so that they reminded 
me of Milton's demons. It is not uncommon to see them entirely 
naked, except a strip of clothing a foot broad, about their middle. 
This evening six deserters, who had been taken and sent to Green 
Bay, and discharged after serving their time out, arrived here. 
They were miserable looking fellows — One of them came to the 
tavern, and offered to barter a roll of tobacco for whiskey, but was 
refused. They took up their quarters for the night in an empty 
cabin. 

14th Spent the day in rambling through the woods round the 
town. I took care to procure a steel. There is an U. S. reserve 
of six miles square round the town, and the settlers are squatters, 
who pay no tax nor rent, and are liable to be ordered off at a 
minutes' warning. The village before the late war, was much 
larger than it is at present. The Indians destroyed all the houses 
except two which were near the fort, and which were burnt, by 
order of the commandant, to prevent the Indians from setting 
fire to them when the wind should set towards the fort, and burn 
it. Beyond the U. S. reserve, there are a number of reserves belong- 
ing to the Indians. The soil in the whole tract between here and 
Whitewater is very rich, and there is a rank growth of underwood 
— ginseng grows in abundance in the woods, and in the bottoms 
along the St. Marys, there is a great deal of sarsaparilla. There 
is much less beech timber here than farther south, and the prin- 
cipal timber is oak, White, black and red, and hiccory — there is no 
poplar, the other woods are the same with those along the 
Ohio, excepting the sycamore, of which I saw none. This part of 
the country possesses great commercial advantages, and when 
it becomes settled, will be a place of great business. The Grand 
Canal from N. York to Buffaloe will open a water course to the 
sea, and it is in contemplation to cut a canal from the St. Joseph's 
to the Little river, a branch of the Wabash; the distance from the 
nearest point of communication, (about \ a mile from Fort 
Wayne) is 1\ miles, and the whole distance is through a prairie; 
so that the expense of cutting a canal will be trifling, and then there 
will be a water course either to New York or New Orleans. The 
only disadvantage that I observed in this county, (which, how- 
ever is a great one,) is the scarcity of water. There is not at this 
time, a single running stream between here and the Whitewater, 
except the three rivers I mentioned. This inconvenience, however, 



252 Early Travels in Indiana. 

will be less felt by those who settle along the rivers. I haVe never 
known what it was to suffer for water till I took this journey — 
the only water I could get was from waggon ruts which the rain 
had filled, and as it had not rained for several weeks, they were 
mostly dry. This water, where it was exposed to the sun, was gen- 
erally covered with a green scum, and where it was shaded, was 
full of musquitoes — but necessity compelled me to drink it. The 
musquitoes are another great pest. I never saw them thicker 
along the sea shore than they are in the woods; and it is impos- 
sible to stop to rest without kindling a fire, and siiting in the 
smoke of it, at the risk of strangulation. The St. Mary's is 
navigable for perogues about 160 miles from Fort Wayne. The 
Fort is about 15 miles West of the Ohio line, in Randolph County. 
This is a fine country lor raising stock. In the river bottoms, the 
grass grows very luxuriant and in the woods, there is an abund- 
ance of herbage of one kind or other, so that cattle will keep 
fat without feeding at home, with what they will find in the woods. 
There are some as fine looking cattle here as I ever saw. , 

15th. Sat off for Wapaughkonnetta, came 24 miles in a S. 
eastern course, and finding a settler, stopped at his house. — 16th 
came on through a continued region of oak land, thickly wooded, 
to the St. Mary's river — crossed it at Shane's ferry — Anthony 
Shane is an Indian, who keeps a tavern here. He has a fine farm, 
and has laid out a town here, called Shanesville; there are three 
houses built, and one more begun. From here the country is 
settled about six miles. Soon after leaving Shane's, I entered 
on a beautiful prairie, thinly timbered with black and red oak 
which is scattered in groves over its whole extent. It is entirely 
clear of brush or underwood, and covered with long grass. The 
surface is not quite level, but gently undulating; and upon the 
whole it is the most beautiful land I ever saw. It extends from the 
St. Mary's river about ten miles. Came four miles from Shanes- 
ville to the house of — Dennison — distance 20 miles, Course 
S. East. 

17th. Came 3 miles to twelve-mile-creek; crossed it, and 
entered the forest again. The timber here is principally beech — 
missed the Wapaughkonnetta trace, and came to Fort St. Mary's 
at the head of canoe navigation on that river. There has been no 
garrison kept here for several years, and the fort has gone to decay 
— a block house is the principal vestige of it remaining. — Near 
the fort is the tumulus of an Indian. — A wall is raised with sap- 
lings about 3 feet high, round it, covered with bark. — Crossed 



Thomas Scattergood Teas. 253 

the St. Mary's here, and soon after struck an Indian trail which I 
supposed to lead to Wapaughkonnetta. After travelling along 
it about ten miles came to Pasheta's town, an Indian village of six 
or seven cabins, on the Au Glaize river — found an Indian who 
could speak a little English, and received directions from him for 
Wapaughkonnetta — crossed the Au Glaize, and two miles further 
came in sight of the town. The Indians are thickly settled in this 
part of the country. They are Shawanese — passed 4 more graves, 
covered like the first. Came to the house of Robert Broderick, 
U. States' blacksmith, where I was very hospitably received. The 
Indians here are about 500 in number, and receive 3,000 dollars per 
annum. This year's pension they requested in goods and it was 
accordingly forwarded last week in blankets, calicoes, broad cloths, 
&c. This evening Capt. Logan and his son came to Broderick's 
to have a chain mended. The son whose name is "Walk by the 
side of the Water," is the most perfect model of masculine beauty 
that I ever saw. He was very tastefully dressed in a costume not 
much unlike that of a Scotch Highlander. His father is a fat 
butcher looking man. After they had gone, I remarked to R. 
Broderick, that I thought the young man very beautiful. He 
replied that if I had seen him about three weeks before, with his 
clothes sprinkled with the blood of a man whom he had murdered, 
I might have thought differently. He had been commissioned by 
his father, who is one of the chiefs, to kill an Indian who had 
murdered another a few days before, and he accordingly went in 
quest of him, armed with a long knife. They met in the street, 
and "Walk" &c. informed the culprit that he was come to kill 
him ; a piece of information which was in no wise agreeable to him. 
He attempted to make his escape, but the executioner soon over- 
took him and stabbed him in the neck, he fell, and was soon dis- 
patched. Walk then came to Broderick's and shewedliim the 
knife which was dripping with blood, gave him a full account of 
the murder with as much apparent concern as though he had been 
killing a cat. Distance today 27 miles. Course S. E. to Fort 
St. Mary's, thence due East. 18th Took a walk through the.town. 
It is a tolerably large one, extending nearly a mile scattering. 
There are several French traders here. The society of Friends 
have erected a grist and saw mill on the Au Glaize at this place, 
and employ a person to attend them. A school is to be opened in 
the 9th month next. Just as we were sitting down to break- 
fast, a company of surveyors, accompanied by General Beasley 
arrived. They took breakfast with us, and after breakfast, I 



254 Early Travels in Indiana. 

took leave of Brodericks, and returned to Fort St. Mary's, and 
thence to Dennisons. 27 miles. 19th. Came to Shanesville. 
Captain Shane shewed me a plot of the town. It is handsomely 
laid out, the streets six perches wide crossing each other at right 
angles, and intersected with alleys two perches wide. The lots on 
Main and Market Streets sell for 60 dollars. They are a quarter 
of an acre each. He also shewed me a copy of an act of Congress, 
granting him half a section of land (where he is settled), in con- 
sideration of his "valuable and honorable services during the late 
war." He commanded a company of Shawanese. 

From here I took a blazed path, leading to Captain Riley's, 
but it being a new one, and but little travelled, I soon lost it, and 
concluded to follow the course of the river— a determination I 
soon had ample cause to repent — The river bottoms in general 
were from one to three hundred yards wide, and covered with 
grass from five to eight feet high, and so matted together, that 
it was extremely difficult to force my way through it. On the 
high grounds back of the river, the nettles grew about as high 
as my shoulders, and stung me almost beyond the power of 
endurance ; and where there was no room for nettles, the vines and 
prickly bushes formed a thicket that at any other time I would 
have thought impenetrable. In order to get along here, I had to 
crawl on my hands and knees, and fairly push myself through them 
till wearied out with this way of getting along at the rate of a 
quarter of a mile per hour, I took to the river, and waded along 
its banks till they became so steep that the water came up to my 
armpits, and then took to the long grass, the nettles and thickets 
again. — Soon after, I crossed a fallen tree that I recollected having 
crossed about an hour before. By this time, I had wandered in so 
many different directions, that I was completely bewildered. 
The sun was about an hour high, and appeared to be in the east. 
I corrected that error with my compass, but owing to the diffi- 
culties of the ground, I could not carry it in my hand, and at last I 
could not tell when I saw the river, whether I was ascending or 
descending its banks. I now began to entertain serious fears of 
not being able to reach any house, and the alternative was, to 
perish in this execrable wilderness, as I had no provisions, nor 
any means of procuring them. The only living animals I saw, 
were deer, which were numerous in the long grass. — About sun- 
set, as I was looking out for a place to encamp, being almost 
worn down with fatigue, and bleeding with scratches from the 
briers, I discovered the path ! None but those who have been in a 



Thomas Scattergood Teas. 255 

similar condition can form an idea of the joy I felt at being thus 
rescued from the most horrible death. As I knew that it would 
soon be too dark to see the path, I forgot my weariness, and pushed 
on" as rapidly as the faintness of the tracks would allow, and after 
going about 2\ miles, saw Captain Riley's clearing, and a little 
after dusk arrived at his house. He received me very kindly, and 
when I told him the course I had come, he expressed great sur- 
prise that I should have reached his house at all — distance today 
18 miles. — Course North, South, East, and West. Spent a very 
agreeable evening with the Captain and his famity. 20th. After 
breakfast we sat off and came along as dim a road as the one I lost 
yesterday, but having had good cause to take more heed to my 
steps, I made out to keep it for about 8 miles, when I arrived at 
the house of Thomas Robinson, on the Wabash prairie. Course 
S. S. West. Here I struck the Richmond road, came about nine 
miles below the Wabash, and encamped — distance 25 miles. 21st. 
Came to the Massissiniway at ten o'clock. A few miles below, took 
Connor's trace (an Indian trader) by mistake, and came on 6 miles 
before I had discovered my error; but as the trace bore about S. 
S. W. I concluded to go on. This road leads to Greenville. I 
reached a settlement before dark — distance 30 miles. — 22. — 
Came on about 30 miles, and arrived at my brother Charles' 
at 4 o'clock P. M. and thus ended my journey, having travelled 
287 miles — and occupied two weeks very agreeably — 

And so my paper being also nearly expended, 

The account of my adventures shall be ended. 



From Memoirs of William Forster, edited by Benjamin 
Seebohm. 

Forster, William. 

William Forster, a minister of the Society of Friends in England was 
born in 1784. He was recognized as a minister in 1805. He was a helper of 
Elizabeth Fry in her philanthropic work. In 1820 he was induced to under- 
take a mission to the United States in behalf of the Society of Friends in 
America. He spent five years in America traveling in New England, Canada, 
New York, New Jersey, Pennsylvania, Delaware, Maryland, Ohio, Indiana 
and Illinois. In 1821-1822 he spent several months in Indiana, chiefly among 
Friends in the newly settled districts. 

He came to the United States again in 1853 in the interests of the anti- 
slavery movement and presented an address to the President of the United 
States and to the governors of a number of the States. He died in Tennessee 
in 1854 while on this mission. 

11th mo. 29th \1821\ At Lewis's Tavern, Shelby Raven, Indiana. 
. . . This backwoods tavern consists of two log-houses, with a cov- 
ered passage between them; each perhaps from fifteen to twenty 
feet square; the largest is our landlord's dwelling house for him- 
self, his wife, and six children. How they dispose of several 
others members of the family it is difficult to imagine. The 
apartment which we inhabit just holds four beds; one of them is 
alloted to John and me; our companion and four other travel- 
lers will, I suppose, divide the other three between them. It is a 
most thoroughly disagreeable way of life. Our worthy host is a 
man of good understanding and established respectability, from 
Carolina. We were at their meeting yesterday, to which I found 
they had invited several of their neighbors. After a time of deep 
indwelling before the Lord, I was enlarged in consolation and 
invitation and counsel, to my own confirmation. I suppose the 
meeting does not consist of less than sixty or seventy families. 
We have now a long formidable journey on prospect, forty-six 
miles to Vincennes. 

80th. Washington, Davies County. — Instead of the crowded 
cabin and noisy family of last night, we have a snug chamber to. 
ourselves, a nice glowing hearth, and a neat chamber. We came 
eight miles to a late breakfast in Hindostan, a newly begun town 
of about twenty houses. Our road, so far, like that we travelled 
yesterday, was hilly, and the country but thinly inhabited. We 
ferried the river, which we were told is 400 yards in width; and, 

(256) 



William Forster. 257 

after ascending a hill, had a fine level road through a country 
comparatively open, and in some places wholly clear of large 
timber. We found the settlements much more numerous, and at 
intervals finely cultivated farms. 

12th mo. 2nd. Vincennes. — We did not see our host till this 
morning. Por man! his history touched me; his wife died about 
four years ago, and has left him with ten children. Proprietor of 
800 acres of land in that fine country, some of his children are 
covered with rags just hung over their shoulders, forming a spec- 
tacle that would have excited our compassion for the children of 
the poorest beggar at our door. 

There is a great deal of travelling on the road. Some going out 
to Illinois and Missouri; and nearly as many returning to their 
former residences, discouraged by sickness, or disappointed in not 
finding the Elysium they had been seeking. 

We appointed a meeting for the evening at the Court-house. 
On going to it, we found a considerable number of people assem- 
bled, who appeared very unsettled. I strove to be quiet, and, a 
small opening to service presenting, I rose with the tide, and 
was borne along on a gentle current of heavenly love, speaking of 
Christ and his salvation, warning and inviting the people, and, 
comforting the oppressed and penitent sinner with the hope of 
mercy and deliverance. I was afterwards engaged in prayer and 
intercession for the sincere and seeking believers, for the wordly 
and carnally minded, and the negligent and indifferent, and for 
the people at large in this place, that they might be turned from 
their iniquity, and seek to serve and fear the Lord. 

The town is not so large, nor the houses so good, as some we 
have seen in the Western country. It was originally built and 
settled by a colony of French emigrants from Canada, above 100 
years ago; and was, I suppose, one of the principal outposts on 
this side of the mountains for trading with the Indians. Lat- 
terly a number of Americans settled in among them; they have no 
place for worship but a Popish chapel; but the Methodists and 
PYesbyterians occasionally use the Court-house for their meet- 
ings. The town stands on a large flat or sandy plain, which 
appears by nature uncongenial to the growth of timber. 

... I am sorry to say there are many slaves in the town — I 
suppose mostly such as were held under the territorial govern- 
ment; but the State Legislature had made provision for their 
freedom. We hear sad stories of kidnapping. I wish some active 
benevolent people could induce every person of colour to remove 

T— 17 



258 Early Travels in Indiana. 

away form the river, as it gives wicked, unprincipled wretches the 
opportunity to get them into a boat, and carry them off to Orleans 
or Missouri, where they still fetch a high price. I have been 
pleading hard with a black man and his wife to get off for some 
settlement of Friends, with their five children; and I hope they will 
go. I hardly know anything that would make me more desperate 
than to be in the way of this abominable system of kidnapping; 
I cannot say, when once set on to rescue a poor creature, where I 
would stop. It is most shocking to think that they will betray ono 
another, and sometimes the black women are the deepest in these 
schemes. A poor man told us that he never went to bed without 
having his arms in readiness for defence. 

5th. Harmony, Posey County. — Believing I could not peacefully 
relinquish the prospect of visiting our friends to the west of the 
Wabash, we pursued our journey to the southward. Yesterday 
afternoon we had a meeting at the house of a widow Friend, in a 
little colony of emigrants from New York; some of them Friends, 
others more or less remotely connected with the Society. 

After a wilderness journey, we arrived here just as the town 
clock struck five. This is an interesting village, a settlement of 
Germans who came into America upwards of sixteen years ago. 
They established themselves in the first instance on the waters of 
the Big Beaver, in Pennsylvania, and removed to this place about 
seven years ago. They have a fine estate of 25,000 acres — 3,000 
cleared and fenced, and from what we saw it was in a state of good 
cultivation. The village contains about 700 inhabitants; they 
appear an orderly, industrious, and sober people. There are some 
handsome brick dwellings and large wood houses' in the village, a 
neat place of worship, and a commodious inn. It is difficult to 
form any correct opinion of the people on such very slight acquaint- 
ance, especially such as speak a strange language; but it is not too 
much to say there is nothing prepossessing in their appearance. 
It has to me more the appearance of a community devoted to 
temporal aggrandizement than to religious attainment. Their 
industry, neatness, and order, and especially their cleanliness, are 
great. It is difficult to ascertain their religious principles. They 
object to oaths and war, but are in the practice of paying a fine in 
lieu of personal service; community of goods and implicit submis- 
sion to their elder or headman are enjoined. 

Having crossed over into the State of Illinois, he continues his narrative. 
6th. Albion. — We were ferried over the Wabash, about a quarter 



William Forster. 259 

of a mile in width, by a man and two boys. I pleased myself with 
giving each of the lads a New Testament, and the poor man appear- 
ing anxious to posses the same treasure I didj not hesitate to grat- 
ify him. The poor fellow, in the aboundings of his gratitude, 
offered to return the ferriage, which of course I did not accept. 
Our road was for the first few miles through a very extensive cane 
break. After traversing a more hospitable region, we came across 
two or three large prairies. Having been shut up in the woods 
for such a length of time, it was gratifying beyond description to 
enjoy the extent of prospect. We were heartily welcomed by the 
landlady at Albion, who turned out to be our cousin Morris Birk- 
beck's old servant. 

Keeping near the Wabash they pursued their journey in Illinois to the 
north. 

We got off early in the afternoon, and came about sixteen 
miles, most of the way a very lonely road, through a large extent 
of prairie. There being no inn on the road, we found more than 
common difficulty in obtaining accommodation for the night, 
but at length succeeded better than we had hoped for. One of the 
young men had brought home a fine fat buck the day before, 
and we had a nice broiled venison, both for supper and breakfast 
next morning. Our lodging was not quite so agreeable; my com- 
panion and I had a bed below stairs. In the same room was a 
poor woman, confined to her bed by sickness; our landlady was 
her companion for the night; another stranger slept on the floor, 
and our other friends up in the loft. The poor woman was very 
ill in the night, so that we had not a very comfortable time of 
rest. Being brought into feeling for the poor sick woman, I 
mentioned my wish to have the family collected, which was readily 
complied with; and I may confess with thankfulness that the 
opportunity was to my relief and comfort. With the hope of a 
quiet afternoon, and perhaps a meeting in the evening, we set 
off, intending to travel a stage of twelve miles. Instead of find- 
ing the distance to Laurenceville only twelve or fifteen miles, as 
we had been led to expect, from the time spent on the road we 
concluded it could not be less than twenty-one or twenty-two 
miles. When we got there, though the town is laid out for the 
county-seat, we found it so much in its infancy as to contain but 
one tavern, and that, with its rough exterior, affording but little 
hope of comfort. With the expectation of better fare farther on 
the road, we were easily induced to pursue our journey, intending 



260 Early Travels in Indiana. 

to take up with such accommodation as we might meet with on 
the other side of the Embarras, which falls into the Wabash a 
few miles below Vincennes. We met with some detention at the 
ferry; but by the help of a crazy boat, and lazy, awkward ferry- 
men, got safe over. Here we had the vexation to find we had not 
come forward for much better fare; everything was so completely 
miserable, that after a little refreshment, for which we had to 
wait long, we determined to go on a few miles, and trust to the 
hospitality of some of the neighbouring farmers for a night's 
lodging. We found our way by the light of the full moon, to the 
house of a kind-hearted man, from the State of New York, who 
without much hesitation agreed to give us shelter for the night. 
Though lately a magistrate, and holding a large tract of fine land, 
he had but a small cabin; he readily gave us one bed, and made up 
another for our companions, on the floor; and the man and his 
wife and six children divided the other two among themselves. 
This was not very agreeable, but much more tolerable among 
strangers, than in the company of old acquaintance. I pleased 
myself with distributing some of our little store of books among 
their fine family; and with the expression of hearty good-will 
on both sides we took our seats in the waggon, soon after sun- 
rise, and reached the small town of Palestine, situated at the foot 
of La Motte Prairie, about mid-day. I took a short walk into the 
environs of the town: the scenery was novel and very striking; it 
had much the appearance of a large level common or green, of 
several miles in circumference, with settlements about every half- 
mile round the margin; and the adjacent woods, particularly 
towards the Wabash, contain large and very lofty timber, syca- 
more, hackberry, cotton-wood, &c. 

Riding pretty nearly the length of this prairie, we came to 
another interval of wood, and then entered Union Pairie, and 
having a fine level road soon drove to the house of our friend 
Reuben Crow, eighty miles from Albion. After another cold and 
very wakeful night, we parted from our friends at Union, our host 
kindly accompanying us to the Wabash. Before we set off, we 
had an opportunity of retirement in the family; I was much 
engaged both on account of the father and children, and under 
the prevalence of Divine love it was a season of instruction and 
consolation. When we reached the river, we found the ice, 
which I suppose had been formed in the night, floating in large 
sheets. It wore a fearful aspect; and the ferryman not having 
all his men at hand, to reconcile us to the detention of two or three 



William Forstee. 261 

hours, said quite enough to make me think it would be hazardous 
crossing; but, taking the opportunity when the river was clearer 
than it had been for some time previous, we got through with 
safety. 

Having now re-entered the State of Indiana they pursued their course to 
a small settlement of Friends on the eastern banks of the Wabash. 

After two or three hours travelling, we met with a warm 
welcome from our friend Moses Hoggett, at his comfortable habita- 
tion on Honey Creek Prairie. Next day we had a meeting with 
Friends to some satisfaction and relief, and spent the afternoon 
and evening at the house of an agreeable, open-hearted friend 
on the banks of the Wabash. On Sixth-day, we had a bleak cold 
ride, about ten miles higher up the river, to Spring Creek. 

We were guests to our friend Benjamin Bailey, and his worthy 
wife, who had not been previously visited by Friends. I think they 
did their very best to keep us warm; but, the cabin being without a 
window, we were obliged to have the door open for light, and the 
logs not being well plastered, it required some little watchfulness 
to suppress the rising of a murmer. We had a meeting with a few 
Friends in the neighbourhood in the evening, which, though not 
without some unpleasant interruption, was attended with suffi- 
cient feeling to satisfy us that we were pursuing the path of duty; 
and as there is a prospect of more Friends settling in the neigh- 
bourhood, I trust it will not be long before they are encouraged 
to hold a meeting among themselves. We parted from the dear 
friends in much love, early in the forenoon, and drove briskly 
along a fine road to Terre Haute, a small town and county-seat 
recently erected on a high bluff on the left bank of the Wabash. 
I wished to have had a meeting there; but, finding there was no 
suitable accommodation to be obtained, we come on without 
much delay to Moses Hoggett's. It was a fine clear winter's 
evening, and I took a pretty long walk on the prairie, to hunt 
for seeds. I met with many plants I had not seen before; and, had 
I been a few weeks earlier, I suppose I could have had a large col- 
lection of such as would have been very acceptable to many of 
my friends at home; however, I had gathered a few, which I 
intend to send to Philadelphia. These prairies would be a remark- 
ably interesting field of research to some of our English botanists; 
and probably the time is not very distant when many of these 
plants will contribute much to the ornament of some of our gar- 
dens. 



262 Early Travels in Indiana. 

We were at a meeting again with Friends at Honey Creek, on 
First-day morning, when I was unusually enlarged in exercise for 
■ their help and preservation. 

About noon, we got to our friend Joshua Dick's, on Turman's 
Creek, and in the evening had a meeting, about one mile distant, 
at Abner Hunt's, where we lodged. It is quite a new settlement of 
Friends, from the upper part of North Carolina; perhaps there 
may be fifty individuals, and it is but lately they have begun to 
hold a meeting. I was given up to labour in word and doctrine, as 
the way might be opened for me ; and I trust that to some it was an 
opportunity of instruction, and the renewing of strength; the day 
closed in peace. We had now visited Friends very generally on 
the Wabash; their number is not large, and certainly, as to that 
which constitutes the life and power of religion, the Society must 
be considered to be in a low state. There is no friend acknow- 
ledged as a minister among them; and I had to fear that the dici- 
pline is far from being supported in the authority of Truth, and 
that the attendance of meetings for worship was regarded by many 
Friends with great indifference. 

"Feeling released from apprehension, by which he had been deeply 
exercised," that it might be required of him to extend his travels into the 
State of Missouri, he now proceeded to the "White River Settlement of 
Friends," in southern Indiana. 

On Third-day morning we parted from our kind friend Moses 
Hoggett; we found him a sensible, well-informed man, and an 
agreeable companion. He is much interested in the prosperity of 
their rising colony, and has been in the office of a Circuit or Dis- 
trict Judge. We got a tolerably comfortable inn that evening. 
The road being bad and slippery, we did not travel more than seven- 
teen miles in the course of that day. We came to Carlisle next 
morning; and had hoped to have gone immediately to a small 
settlement of Friends, fifteen or twenty miles distant; but we were 
easily turned from our course, on hearing of the improbability of 
our being able to cross the river, as it was supposed to be frozen 
over, and yet not hard enough to bear our waggon. After some 
detention, we changed our course from east to north-east, and 
about three o'clock in the afternoon stopped at the cabin of very 
civil people, new settlers from Kentucky. It was well they did 
not turn us adrift, as we were twenty miles from the next house; 
and the weather being very cold, with a slight covering of snow 
on the ground, it would not have been the most pleasant night to 
have camped out for the first time. The people were very kind, 



William Forster. 263 

and did their best; and we were too grateful for a shelter to mur- 
mur at accommodation to which we could hardly have submitted 
at the beginning of our Western tour. One of their children was 
very sick, and cried most piteously in the night. I endeavoured 
to think of something that might afford the poor child a little 
relief; and the parents were so thankful for a few articles of 
medicine that there was no making them take anything for our 
entertainment. 

We had a pretty fair specimen of backwoods travelling the 
next day. The country was thinly wooded, undulating, and beau- 
tifully interspersed with prairies, and in some places the land- 
scape was more picturesque than any I have seen, whilst entirely 
devoid of the aid of art. The prairies had much the appearance of 
large gentlemen's parks, with groups and groves of timber, sit- 
uated as if planted to give the finest effect of scenery. We stopped 
to bait about one o'clock and made ourselves a fire in the woods 
for the first time. We enjoyed our dinner, but the country was 
too much frozen to afford us any water for ourselves or our horses. 
Early in the evening we reached the habitation of one of the most 
complete backwoodsmen we had met in our travels. He had 
been brought up among Friends in Georgia. He was a bachelor, 
and had his widowed sister and her family living with him. Every- 
thing was rough in the extreme. I had some serious conversa- 
tion with the poor man next morning which I trust was well 
received. We then had five miles to the ferry, which we found had 
been kept open, and the water being low we were soon across, and 
travelling about six miles we reached the house of a Friend lately 
come into the woods. They showed us much kindness, and find- 
ing that if we pursued our journey more than two or three miles 
we could not get to any house that night, we were soon persuaded 
to stay and take up our quarters with them. It was a clean, 
agreeable, and well-ordered family; and, though we were crowded 
together within narrow limits, it was really more of a rest than we 
had met with for several days. We had an early breakfast the 
next morning, and an opportunity of retirement with the family 
to some comfort. They had bought land in the woods, expect- 
ing other Friends would follow them, and that they should have a 
meeting, but, as in some other instances that we met with, had 
been disappointed, and talked of moving. Such instances are 
much calculated to excite one's sympathy. Industrious, upright 
Friends in low circumstances, spending no small portion of their 
little property, and two or three years of the best of their strength, 



264 Eaely Travels in Indiana. 

in settling themselves in a new country, and then when they have 
got a few acres of land under cultivation, and their buildings put 
up, have often to break up their establishment, and move again; 
but even that is far better than bringing up a family secluded 
from good society, and remote from meeting. 

Early in the evening we reached the neighbourhood of Indian- 
creek, where our enjoyments were not superabundant. We had a 
very small meeting the next day; possibly there might be one or two 
to whom it is an opportunity of encouragement, and I thought 
that in great mercy I was permitted some access to the Source 
of good for my own help. Parting from our friends in that set- 
tlement, I believe in true love, we came on four or five miles to the 
house of a man who readily gave us shelter for the night; and it 
was well we had not occasion to ask for more, as the family were 
bare of meat of any description, and were then living on hominy, 
with plenty of fat pork. This was almost the only family we met 
with that was not abounding in the necessaries and ordinary com- 
forts of life. We took to our lodging on the floor with pretty good 
heart; the man and his wife and eight or nine children, and their 
son and his wife, occupying the beds slung around the room. 

On reaching the White River district the narrative proceeds : 

After a journey through a hilly, broken country, we reached 
the habitation of a friend near White River meeting-house. They 
had but a small cabin, open and very cold; and, though they had 
begun a new house, capable of being made a comfortable habita- 
tion, in consequence of the sickness which had been general in 
that neighbourhood last fall, and with which they had been 
affected, they had made but little progress. Our meeting next 
day was to some comfort and relief. In the afternoon our friends 
kindly collected in a pretty strong party, and cut a way for us 
through the ice, about eight inches in thickness, so that we ferried 
over the east branch of White River, perhaps 100 or 150 yards in 
width. Early next morning we found ourselves at the home of our 
friend, Joseph Farlow, near Lick-creek; a meeting is lately settled 
just by his premises, of perhaps twenty-five families. We had a 
religious opportunity with them next forenoon, in which I was 
more enlarged than on some other occasions. That evening we 
visited a friend confined to the house in very great helplessness, 
and on Sixth-day had a meeting at a Friend's house on Lost 
River. It was small, and not to much relief; but not entirely in 
vain. On Seventh-day was the Monthly Meeting of Lick-creek, a 



William Forster. 265 

large gathering of Friends. I ventured to speak on several sub- 
jects in the meeting for discipline. Friends showed us much love, 
and I trust there was a willingness at least to hear what was com- 
municated. On First-day the meeting was large. I was poorly, 
and brought very low; but, in the riches of condescending mercy 
and goodness, was ultimately enlarged in much love. At the close 
was held their meeting for ministers and elders, which I attended, 
and in which I was not silent. On Second-day we had an agree- 
able ride through the woods to Mount Pleasant. On Third-day we 
were at a small and newly-settled meeting there. 

It was late on Fourth-day when we reached the neighbour- 
hood of Blue River Meeting. Nathan Trueblood gave us a kind 
welcome to his comfortable habitation, and next day accompanied 
us to a small meeting two or three miles from his house. It was an 
opportunity of profitable instruction to me, and possibly might be 
no less so to others. On Fifth-day we were at the week-day meet- 
ing at Blue River, in which I thought I was made sensible of the 
power of divine love, and spoke, I trust, to the encouragement of 
the afflicted, and such as were under depression; afterwards was 
held their Preparative Meeting, and the meeting of ministers and 
elders. In the latter I was much exercised, and ventured on some 
expression. Sixth-day was very cold; we walked to the little 
town of Salem, about two miles distant, where we had a meeting 
in the Court-house. I had gone through much discouragement 
about it; but I sought to be simple and resigned, and to move in 
what I believed to be the leadings of the Spirit. I was favoured to 
feel more relieved than could have been hoped for. Seventh-day 
we attended their Monthly Meeting. I was exercised under a con- 
cern to bring Friends into feeling for themselves and the low state 
of things among them; and in the meeting for discipline I was 
engaged to speak on different subjects. We went home with 
Matthew Coffin, an elderly friend, lately come with his wife and 
daughter from North Carolina. 

I had requested public notice to be given of the meeting on 
First-day morning. It was a large gathering. I was much given 
up to labour honestly and faithfully in the work of the Gospel. I 
was exercised for the awakening of transgressors; and, having 
reason for fear that some of these had taken refuge in unbelief, 
it was no wonder if the terrors of the law, and the invitations of 
the Gospel, should be alike rejected. 

Turning now again to the north, they visited the meetings along the 
Driftwood, and then proceeded towards Richmond. 



266 Early Travels in Indiana. 

We parted from our friends at Blue River in much love, and on 
Second-day reached the house of Thomas Newby, near Drift- 
wood Meeting-house, having forded the Muskaketah. After the 
meeting for worship, and their Preparative Meeting on Fourth- 
day, we went home with Jacob Morris and his wife, kind Friends. 
We had an open, heart-tendering opportunity the next morning, 
in which, under the sensible feeling of Divine love, consolation 
and encouragement were offered both to the friends and their 
daughters. Early in the evening we arrived at Thomas New- 
some's, near Sandy-creek. There are four or five families in the 
neighbourhood recently emigrated from Carolina. We had a 
meeting with them in the evening, in which a door of utterance 
was opened. We set off soon after breakfast, and pursued our 
journey to a new settler's on the Flat Rock Creek. Being very 
remotely situated from other Friends, we appeared to be wel- 
comed guests, and the dear woman did much to try to make us 
comfortable. They gave us a bed; but our companions, with two 
other visitors who came in the course of the evening, had their 
lodging on the floor. It is one of the great inconveniences atten- 
dant on an early settlement in the woods, that they are expected 
to take in all of every class who apply for accommodation. Some 
friends gave us an account of the number that had been housed 
on their cabin floors almost beyond credit. 

On Seventh-day, having parted from our friends in love after a 
religious opportunity, we continued our journey, most of the 
way within sight of the waters of the Flat Rock. Our road was 
very much through the wilderness, sometimes five or six miles, or 
further, without seeing a house; but, considering that it is but 
about two years since the country was vacated by the Indians 
and offered for public sale, it far exceeded our expectation to find 
it so well inhabited, and in several places much improved, for the 
time they have had it in hand. I believe that nearly the whole of 
the State of Indiana has been purchased from the natives; and 
instead of holding reservations of land in their former territory, as 
in Ohio, New York, &c, with the exception of a few who form a 
small settlement somewhere in the centre of the State, they have 
accepted an annuity from Congress, and gone over the Mississippi. 
I do not pretend to much judgment in such things, but I think I 
have not seen in the course of my travels any country so well 
suited to support a large population as the interior of this State. 
Peach trees grow with astonishing rapidity, bearing fruit in three 
years. In the older settled parts of the country we found some 



William Forster. 267 

good apple orchards; and they give a most tantalizing description 
of the size and richness of their water-melons. The country is 
undulating, with but few large hills, and not much that lies on a 
dead level; they have coals and salt, and iron. 

We dined in the woods by a large fire, and that night were 
well accommodated at the habitation of a wealthy settler of Ger- 
man extraction, who has brought plenty of good things into the 
wilderness, and purchased not less than 1,000 acres of land. He 
was a zealous professor among the Baptists, and would not receive 
any remuneration for my accommodation, which I understand is 
not unfrequently the case with serious persons in America, espe- 
cially when they know the traveller receives no pa}^ for his min- 
istry. It was First-day morning, and no small trial to me to turn 
out with the prospect of spending the day on the road ; but unless 
we had made a halt in the woods — which, considering the weather, 
we could not, I believe, have done to any good purpose — I thought 
the time could not be spent more profitably than in our waggon; 
and having endeavoured to explain to our host the circumstances 
under which we were placed, and represented in pretty strong- 
terms to our young friends how great a trial I felt it, my mind 
became more easy, and we had not an unpleasant day. Our lodg- 
ing that night was not the most convenient; but, with our pro- 
vision and many appliances, we did not suffer either for want of 
food or bedding. In the evening I read a few chapters to the family 
which I trust was well received. 

Just about dark the next day we arrived in the neighbour- 
hood of Milford 1 Meeting-house, and were hospitably entertained 
at John Bell's, whose father came from near Cockermouth. A 
meeting was appointed for the following day, and a large number 
attended, Friends and others. On Fourth-day we were at the 
week-day meeting at West Union. In the afternoon we came 
forward to West Grove, 2 and attended their usual week-day meet- 
ing next day. 

We agreed that it might be safe for us to proceed thence direct 
for Richmond. I confess the attraction was very strong in that 
direction, as I was full of hope and expectation that I should find 
letters on my arrival. But there was not a single English letter 
for me. I endeavoured to bear up, but it was a disappointment 
deeply felt. We went that evening to the house of Jesse Williams; 
they were kind friends, and having some understanding of the 



1. Near Miiton, Ind. 

2. Near Centerville, Ind. 



268 Early Travels in Indiana. 

comforts and refinements of civilized life, though for the present 
inhabiting but a poor cabin, we found it a place of true rest. The 
meeting at Chester was large; and, being in good measure enabled 
to cast off the burthen that I believed to have been brought upon 
me, I felt more relieved than at many other times. 

We returned with our friends to their quiet habitation and went 
with them to their meeting at Whitewater, near Richmond on 
First-day morning. This is one of the largest meetings in the 
state, containing, I suppose, not less than 120 or 130 families, 
forty of whom live in Richmond, which is a thriving village, finely 
situated on a high bank above the Whitewater river. Appre- 
hending it might be safest to express a little respecting a right 
exercise of the mind on such occasions, I uttered a few sentences; 
and my heart being made tender before the Lord, I had to rejoice 
in the grace of our blessed Saviour, and was enabled to offer a 
word for the consolation of some weary and tribulated pilgrims, 
seeking to gather Friends of the humbling power of Christ and the 
experience of his baptism, that thus the will and wisdom of the 
creature might be made to bow in subjection to his Spirit, and 
that he might be prepared individually to become subjects of that 
kingdom which is not of this world. In the afternoon we went 
with James Pegg to his quiet and peaceful cabin about two miles 
out of town. We spent a pleasant, and I trust not an unprofit- 
able evening together; and on Second-day he accompanied us to a 
meeting appointed for us at Orange. It was much the exercise 
of my mind that the people might be drawn from outward expecta- 
tions and dependence, to a deep feeling of their own state. 

William Forster then spent some time visiting the numerous meetings 
of Friends in the eastern part of the State of Indiana. 



From A geographical description of the United States, by 
John Melish [1822], pp. 347-356. 

INDIANA. 

Miles. 

Length 250 

Breadth 145 

Area. 

36,250 Sq. Miles. 

23,200,000 Acres. 
Situation. 

Between 37° 47' and 41° 43' N. 

Between 7° 45' and 11° W. 

Boundaries. — On the north, Lake Erie and Michigan terri- 
tory; east, Ohio; south and south-east, Kentucky; and west, 
Illinois. 

Face of the Country. — Indiana is pretty similar to Ohio. The 
country along the Ohio River has the appearance of being hilly 
and broken. In the interior, the country becomes flat, and in some 
places there are wet prairies. The upper country along the Wabash 
is agreeably uneven. Between that river and Lake Michigan, the 
country is mostly level, and abounds in prairies, small lakes, and 
swamps. 

Rivers. — White Water River rises in Randolph county, near 
the head waters of the Wabash, and runs a south and south-east 
course, nearly 100 miles, receiving a number of branches in its 
progress, and falls into Miami River a little above its junction with 
the Ohio. 

The great leading river in this state is the Wabash and its 
waters, but between these and the Ohio there are a number of lesser 
streams, from 30 to 50 miles long, all falling into the Ohio, which 
we shall merely notice as they lie from east to west. They have 
nearly one general character — they rise in the interior of the state, 
they run a southwardly course, they are generally favourable for 
mill seats, and have fertile banks. 

Laughery Creek falls into the river six miles below the outlet 
of Miami River. 

Indian Kentucky Creek, falls into the river a few miles above 
Madison. 

Silver Creek falls in at the Falls of Ohio. 

* (269) 



270 Early Travels in Indiana. 

Indian Creek falls in 12 miles below Corydon, which is situated 
on its east bank. 

Great Blue River falls in at the bend, seven miles below Indian 
Creek. 

Anderson's Creek falls in at Troy. 

Little Pigeon Creek falls in at Cyprus. 

Great Pigeon Creek falls in at Evansville. 

Wabash River is a large stream with numerous branches. 
The highest branch rises in the State of Ohio, and the head waters 
of the Miami and St. Mary's River interlock with it. Thence 
it runs a north-west course of about 60 miles, and receives the 
waters of Eel River from the northeast. Eel River rises near the 
Maumee River, and the streams may be connected by a short 
portage. From Eel River the Wabash runs nearly west about 30 
miles, when the Mississinewa, a large stream from the south- 
east, falls into it. It then makes a bend of 15 miles and receives 
Tippecanoe Creek from the north. 

The river now assumes a general south-west course, which it 
retains to the Ohio, distance above 300 miles. Seventy-five miles 
above the Ohio, it receives the waters of White River and Patoka 
River from the east. 

White River is a large stream, with several branches. The 
west fork rises in the interior of the state, and runs a south-west 
course of more than 140 miles to where it meets the east fork. 
The east fork also rises in the interior of the state, about 40 miles 
south-east of the head of the west fork, and runs first a south, 
and then a west course, part of it very crooked, to the junc- 
tion; the distance being more than 150 miles. In its progress it 
receives the waters of numerous streams, chiefly Muskakituck 
River, Salt Creek, and Indian Creek. From the junction this 
river runs 30 miles nearly a west course, to the Wabash, into 
which it falls 30 miles below Vincennes. 

Patoka River rises near Fredericksburg and runs a west course 
of 80 miles to the Wabash River, into which it falls, two miles 
below White River. 

The Wabash is navigable for large keel boats to Ouitanon, 
where there are rapids. Above Ouitanon it is navigable in all 
the branches nearly to their sources. Above Vincennes the cur- 
rent is generally gentle, below these are several rapids, but not of 
sufficient magnitude to prevent the navigation. 

St. Joseph's River, of Lake Michigan, rises in this state, near the 
Wabash, and runs N. W. to the lake; and Theakike River, a branch 



John Melish. 271 

of the Illinois, rises near St. Joseph's River. As the country has 
not been surveyed in this quarter, these streams are at present 
unimportant. 

Geological Formation. — The geological formation of this state 
is wholly secondary, and its general elevation nearly the same as 
the state of Ohio. The elevation of Lake Michigan, in the N. W. 
corner, has been ascertained to be 589 feet. The S. E. corner is 
about 450, and the south-west about 330. The head waters of the 
Wabash are probably at an elevation of about 650 feet above the 
level of the dea. 

Soil and Natural Productions. — Nearly the same as Ohio, but 
the southern part, being in a warmer latitude, is more favourable 
to such vegetable substance as require warmth. Vineyards have 
come to maturity at Vevay, and the grape flourishes when cul- 
tivated in all the lower part of the state. Cotton can also be raised. 

Minerals and Mineral Waters. — Coal, iron, and salt are the 
chief minerals, and they are found in plenty. There is a medicinal 
spring near the falls of Ohio, which is strongly impregnated with 
sulphur and iron. 

Climate. — Nearly the same as Ohio, except the southern part, 
which is a little warmer. At Jeffersonville, above the falls of Ohio, 
the mean heat of January was 47°, of July 80°, of December 37°; 
and of the whole year 60° 3'. 

Historical View. — The general history of this part of the North 
West Territory of the United States is included in the article on 
Ohio, except as to a few local circumstances. About the year 1690 
the French traders first visited this territory, and about the year 
1702 they descended the Wabash, and established posts along its 
banks, the chief settlement being Vincennes. The settlers here 
were for a long time insulated from the rest of the world, and 
became gradually assimilated with the Indians, with whom they 
intermarried. In the revolutionary war they joined the cause of 
the United States; and at the peace they were confirmed in their 
possessions, and a tract of land around Vincennes was given to 
them by the United States government. After the peace the inhab- 
itants suffered severely from the Indians, but peace was restored 
by the treaty of Greenville. Considerable purchases were made 
from the Indians up to 1811, but they still retained their power, 
and committed great depredations upon the people, in consequence 
of which a considerable force was sent against them, and being 
defeated in the close of that year, they sued for peace. Dur- 
ing the late war with England, the Indians were again induced to 
renew hostilities, but were defeated at all points, and since the 



272 



Early Travels in Indiana. 



peace they have been very quiet, and have ceded the greater 
part of their lands to the United States. 

In the year 1801, Indiana was erected into a territorial 
government. In 1815 the inhabitants petitioned Congress to 
be admitted into the Union, which being granted, a state con- 
stitution was formed in 1816; and in the same year Indiana became 
a state. 

Population. — In 1800 the population of Indiana was only 
5,641. In 1810 it was 24,520; in 1815, 68,784; and in 1820 it was 
147,178, situated as in the following: 

TOPOGRAPHICAL TABLE. 

Counties. Whites. 

Clark 8,571 

Crawford 2,583 

Davies 3,400 

Dearborn 11, 396 

Delaware 3 , 677 

Dubois 1,160 

Fayette 5,941 

Floyd 2,707 

Franklin 10,698 

Gibson 3,801 

Harrison 7 , 806 

Jackson 3,974 

Jefferson 7,926 

Jennings 1 , 955 

Knox 5,153 

Lawrence 4 , 101 

Martin 1,028 

Monroe 2,671 

Owen 827 

Orange 5,272 

Perry 2,314 

Pike 1,465 

Posey 4,044 

Randolph 1,803 

Ripley 1,820 

Scott 2,328 

Spencer 1 , 877 

Sullivan 3,470 

Switzerland 3,925 

Vanderburgh 1 , 787 

Vigo 3,364 

Wabash 142 

Warrick 1,742 

Washington 8,980 

Wayne 12,053 

145,761 



>ee Blacks. 


Slaves. 


Total. 


138 




8,709 
2,583 


32 




3,432 


72 




11,468 
3,677 


8 




1,168 


9 




5,950 


69 




2,776 


65 




10,763 


45 


30 


3,876 


69 




7,875 


36 




4,010 


112 




8,038 


45 




2,000 


166 


118 


5,437 


15 




4,116 


4 




1,032 


8 




2,679 


10 


1 


838 


96 




5,368 


15 


1 


2,330 


4 


3 


1,472 


6 


11 


4,061 


5 




1,808 


2 




1,822 




6 


2,334 


2 


3 


1,882 


20 


8 


3,498 


9 




3,934 


3 


8 


1,798 


26 




3,390 


L5 




147 


L6 


1 


1,749 


59 




9,039 


66 




12,119 


1,227 


190 


147,178 



John Melish. 273 

Agriculture and Produce. — This being a new country, the chief 
employment is agriculture, and great improvements have been 
made in that branch. The soil and climate are both favourable, 
and the products are valuable and abundant. Wheat, Indian 
corn, oats, and rye, all flourish. Flax and hemp are cultivated. 
Potatoes, sweet potatoes, and other vegetables, are successfully 
raised. Cotton is cultivated in the lower part of the state, and 
vine dressing is brought to maturity. The number of persons 
employed in agriculture by the census of 1820 is 61,315. 

Manufactures and Commerce. — The country is too new to have 
many manufacturing establishments upon a large scale, but they 
have been introduced, and are increasing. The Harmonist Society, 
who were originally settled in the state of Pennsylvania, have 
removed into this state, and settled on a portion of the land on the 
east side of the Wabash, which they have cultivated like a garden; 
and they have engaged largely in manufactures. This extraordi- 
nary society are about 800 in number, and hold all their property 
in common. They have regular office-bearers to conduct all the 
different branches of business carried on in the establishment, 
agriculture, manufactures, and commerce; and acting under a judi- 
cious and enlightened system, they have found manufacturing 
industry to be the most valuable part of their operations. It 
employs the greatest number of hands; it is most aided by machin- 
ery; and is more productive than any other. Settlers in the new 
countries would do well to take a lesson from this extraordinary 
people, who, in consequence of their simple but efficacious arrange- 
ments, good conduct, and industry, and by being independent 

WITHIN THEMSELVES FOR ALL THEIR MATERIAL WANTS, have accu- 
mulated more wealth, and probably experience more peace and 
happiness than any other 800 people, taken promiscuously, on the 
face of the earth. 

When the census of 1810 was taken, Indiana was quite a new 
country, and the manufacturers were few, the amount being 
estimated at only $197,000. They have since greatly increased, 
and the number of persons employed in them is 3,229. 

The principal commerce of Indiana centres at Vincennes and 
the falls of Ohio. The state exports wheat, grain, provisions, and 
tobacco, and imports groceries and dry goods. The number of 
persons employed in commerce is 429. 

Chief Towns. — Corydon, situated on Pigeon Creek, 22 miles 
west from the falls of Ohio, is to be the seat of government until 
the year 1825. After which the government will be transferred to 

T— 18 



274 Early Travels in Indiana. 

Indianapolis, which has been recently laid out on the west fork 
of White River, near the central part of the state. 

Vincennes is situated on the east bank of the Wabash, about 100 
miles from its outlet, and is the largest town in the state, and a 
place of considerable trade. 

The census does not give the population of any of the towns of 
Indiana, and we shall therefore merely notice them as they are 
situated on the respective waters, remarking that some of them are 
important. 

On the Ohio and its waters. Lawrenceburg, at the outlet of the 
Miami; Vevay, the Swiss settlement; Madison, laid out in 1811, 
and now the second town in the state, in point of extent. Charles- 
ton, situated two miles west from the river, is the capital of Clark 
county. Jeffersonville is situated above the falls of Ohio, and is 
the seat of a land office. New Albany is below the falls, opposite 
to Shippingport. Fredonia is at the outlet of Big Blue River. 
Washington is opposite to Stephensport, in Kentucky. Troy 
is situated at the outlet of Anderson's Creek. Rockport is the cap- 
ital of Spencer county, 16 miles below Troy. Evansville is situated 
on a bend of the river, at the outlet of Great Pigeon Creek, and 
here there is a road leading from the river to Princeton, and 
another to Harmony. 

Towns on White Water River and its branches, Jackson- 
borough, Centerville, Salisbury, Richmond, Connersville, and 
Brookville. 

On Laughery Creek. Ripley, Hartford, and Wilmington. 

On Big Blue River. Salem, and Fredericksburg. 

On Patoka Creek. Columbia, and Princeton. Princeton is a 
considerable thoroughfare, and place of some business. 

On White River and its waters. Vernon, Browntown, Palestine, 
Hindostan, Greenwich, Orleans, Paoli, Washington, Petersburg, 
Russehnlle, and Bloomington. 

On Wabash, Prophet's town, Clinton, Terre Haute, Miriam, and 
Carlisle. 

Harmony is situated on the east side of the Wabash, 50 miles 
above its outlet, and is the seat of the Harmonist Society before 
mentioned. The country here is very rich, it is easy to raise all 
the necessaries of life, and by vesting surplus labour in manufac- 
tured articles, an industrious community must become wealthy 
and comfortable. 

Roads, Canals, and Improvements.- — The same regulation exists 
here as in Ohio as to the support of roads. Several roads have 



John Melish. 275 

been made through the state, but they are indifferent. The 
national road, if extended, will pass through the central part of 
this state, in a southwest direction, probably touching at Indianap- 
olis, and passing into the state of Illinois south of Terre Haute. 
It has been proposed to connect the navigation of the Wabash 
with St. Mary's River, a branch of the Maumee, and in a law of 
congress, appropriating a portion of the public lands for internal 
improvements, 100,000 acres were assigned to forward that 
object. It has also been proposed to make a canal round the falls 
of Ohio at Jeffersonville. 

Government and Laivs. — The constitution of Indiana was 
adopted in 1816, and is Legislative, Executive, and Judiciary. The 
Legislative branch consists of a Senate and House of Represen- 
tatives. The senators are elected for three years, and must be 25 
years of age; the representatives must be 21 years of age, and are 
elected annually. The legislature meet on the first Monday of 
December. The Executive is vested in a Governor and Lieutenant 
Governor, who are elected for three years, and are eligible six out 
of nine years. The Judiciary is composed of a supreme court and 
circuit courts. The judges of the supreme court are appointed by 
the governor for three years, and have appellate jurisdiction. 
The circuit courts are to be held in each county by one judge and 
two associates; the former to be appointed by the legislature for 
seven years, and the latter for the same period by the people. 
The elective franchise is vested in all free white males, of 21 years 
and upwards, who are citizens of the United States. 

Education and Manners. — When Indiana was admitted into 
the union, the same law extended to it as to Ohio, regarding the 
support of schools; and an entire township consisting of 23,040 
acres of land was appropriated for the support of a college, which 
is fixed at Vincennes. The manners of the people are pretty 
similar to those of Ohio. 



From An Excursion through the United States and Canada, 
1822-23, by an English gentleman, (Capt. Blaney) 
[1824], pp. 139-156, 243-253. 

Blaney, Wtlliam Newnham. 

Captain Blaney, after having spent several years in traveling throughout 
the continent of Europe, decided to make a tour of the United States. He 
left England in the summer of 1822, landed in New York made his way to 
Philadelphia, Baltimore, and then across the mountains into the Ohio valley. 
His stay in Indiana, although limited, was attended by some very marked 
observations. They have the ring of candor and genuineness in them not 
found in the average narrative. Only a few pages are here inserted, but they 
are full of interest and new facts are found on almost every .page. 

After the very hard frost, which came on just as I left Frank- 
fort, there had been several days' rain, the usual commence- 
ment of winter in this part of the country. The roads in Indiana 
were almost impassable, even on horseback. The day after I 
crossed the river, the frost again set in; and the roads becoming 
worse, I could with difficulty proceed from eighteen to twenty 
miles between sun-rise and sun-set; having to walk a great part 
of the way, leading my horse by the bridle. The frost had fol- 
lowed the rain so immediately, that the drops were frozen on all 
the trees, which in the rays of the setting sun appeared loaded 
with diamonds, and as I rode through the forest, put me in mind 
of the gem-bearing trees in the beautiful tale of Aladdin. 

At Greenville, a collection of straggling cabins, I stopped at a 
house kept by a Mr. Porter, a man from the New England States. 
This tavern, though small, was without exception the most clean 
and comfortable I had ever been in since I crossed the Alleghanies. 
Whenever indeed you stop at the house of a New Englander, you 
are certain to receive more attention, and to find every thing- 
cleaner and of a better quality, than in a tavern kept by a South- 
ern or Western man. 

The Western Americans, and particularly those of Indiana, 
are more rough and unpolished in their manners than those of 
any country I ever travelled in. 

Occasionally, after a long day's ride, when I have arrived 
cold and tired at the house where I intended to stop, I have dis- 
mounted, walked in, and upon finding the master, and perhaps 
one of his sons, seated by the fire, I have addressed him with, 

(276) 



William Newnham Blaney. 277 

"Sir,. can I stay at your house to-night, and have some supper for 
myself and food for my horse?" and then he has just turned his 
head round, and without rising, has said, "I reckon you can." 
Upon further inquiry where I could put my horse, my host has 
replied, "There is a stable behind the house." I have then had 
to rub down and feed my own horse. 

Those who have not tried this after riding all day, do not know 
how disagreeable it is. At the same time, I am certain that no 
kind of incivility was intended. All the people living in the 
same neighbourhood being nearly equal in point of wealth and 
education (with little enough of either), are not accustomed to 
show one another any attention, and therefore extend the same 
want of ceremony to the strangers who may chance to come to 
their houses. Besides, in these wild parts, there is often a dis- 
tance of ten or fifteen miles between each cabin, even on the chief 
roads; and off the roads, a person might travel fifty miles without 
seeing any habitation whatsoever. A man, therefore, who receives 
a traveller in his house, and gives him a bed and food, considers 
with justice, that he confers a favour on his guest, even though he 
charge some trifle for his hospitality. For let any one imagine 
the alternative of either sleeping out in a cold night, without any 
thing to eat, or of staying in a log cabin, by a good blazing fire, 
with plenty of venison-steaks and corn-cake! Surely the traveller 
must acknowledge, that the paying about the value of eighteen- 
pence or two shillings, by no means cancels the obligation which he 
owes to the landlord. 

In speaking of the houses at which I stopped, after crossing 
the Ohio, I make use of the word Tavern; but let not the English 
reader be misled by a word; for there is not one of these taverns 
that deserves to be compared to the common sort of our public 
houses. I have often laughed to see, fixed upon a miserable log 
cabin, a rough Sign, on which has been painted "Washington 
Hotel", or some such high sounding name, though the house prob- 
ably contained only one, or at most only two rooms. Generally 
however, both in Illinois and Indiana, there is no Sign at all. A 
traveller enters without scruple any house near the road side, 
and breakfasts, or stays all night, even if the owner does not pro- 
fess to keep a tavern : for every one is glad to have a stranger stop 
with him, as it gives him an opportunity of hearing some news, 
and also brings him in a dollar or so, if he chooses to accept 
any thing for his hospitality. 

Owing to the great rise of the water, I found some difficulty 



278 Early Travels in Indiana. 

in crossing Blue River, over which there was neither bridge nor 
ferry; and though swimming on horseback is not unpleasant in 
warm weather, I do not myself think it particularly agreeable dur- 
ing a hard frost. But I fortunately discovered some men with a 
canoe, in which I crossed over, taking off my saddle and saddle 
bags, and obliging my horse to swim. 

Near this are some pretty extensive "Barrens." The Ameri- 
cans apply this term to those tracts of land, which, being cov- 
ered with low shrubs and brushwood, much resemble what we call 
in England "Copses." The country beyond Blue River, is cov- 
ered for the most part with thick forest. This grows upon a lime- 
stone formation; and in consequence, the whole country abounds 
with pits and caverns, some of which are of considerable magni- 
tude. From these caverns great quantities of salt-petre have been 
obtained. 

I now came to a large stream, called "Sinking River," which 
flows under ground for the distance of nearly ten miles. When 
there has been a very heavy fall of rain, and the water cannot 
find room to pass under ground, the overplus runs in a channel 
above, and joins the river again where it rises from the earth. 
This upper channel by no means follows the course of the sub- 
terraneous one. 

The road passes over the upper channel, which is pretty deep, 
and which, in spite of the quantity of rain which had fallen only 
five or six days before, was, when I crossed it, nearly dry. 

A few miles from Mr. Byrom's, at a place called French Lick, 
is a very large pigeon roost. Several acres of timber are completely 
destroyed, the branches, even of the thickness of a man's body, 
being torn off by the myriads of pigeons that settle on them. 
Indeed, the first time I saw a flight of these birds, I really thought 
that all the pigeons in the world had assembled together, to make 
one common emigration. These pigeons do a great deal of mis- 
chief; for as they clear immense tracts of forest, of all the mast, 
acorns, &c. numbers of the hogs, which run at large in the woods, 
are in consequence starved to death. 

When crossing a small stream, the day after leaving Byrom's, 
I saw a large flock of beautiful green and yellow parroquets. 
These were the first I had met with; and as they were very tame, 
and allowed me to come close to them, I got off my horse, and 
stopped a short time to admire them. I afterwards saw numbers 
of the same kind in the flats of the Wabash and Mississippi, for 



William Newnham Blaney. 279 

this beautiful bird apparently delights in the neighbourhood of 
streams. 

Before arriving at Hindostan, a small village on the East 
Fork of White River, the country becomes very hilly; and being on 
that account thinly settled, abounds with game of all descriptions. 
Some idea may be formed of the abundance of it, from the price 
of venison at this place, and in the neighbourhood. A haunch will 
bring only 20 cents (about Is. 9d. sterling), or the value of 25 
cents, if the hunter will take powder, lead, or goods. The shop- 
keepers who buy the haunches, the only parts of the deer that are 
thought worth selling, cure and dry them much in the same man- 
ner as the Scotch do their mutton hams, and then send them for 
sale to Lousiville or New Orleans. These dried venison hams, as 
they are called, are very good eating. 

The two young men who ferried me over the river, had just 
returned from a hunting excursion. They had only been out two 
days; and not to mention a great number of turkeys, had killed 
sixteen deer and two bears, besides wounding several others. 
The bear is much more esteemed than the deer; first, because his 
flesh sells at a higher price; and secondly, because his skin, if a 
fine large black one, is worth two or three dollars. 

I was stopped for three days at the West Fork of White River, 
owing to the ice, which was of such a thickness, and came down the 
stream with such rapidity, that it was impossible for the ferry- 
boat to cross. 

In these thinly settled countries, if a traveller be detained, or 
if he wish to stop a day or two to rest his horse, he can, if either a 
sportsman or a naturalist, find abundant amusement. Go to 
what house I might, the people were always ready to lend me 
a rifle, and were in general glad to accompany me when I went out 
hunting. Hence, in addition to the pleasure of the chase, I had, 
at the same time, an opportunity of becoming better acquainted 
with the manners of the Backwoodsmen, and with the difficulties 
and hardships which are undergone by all the first settlers of a new 
country. I found I had imbibed the most erroneous ideas, from 
seeing none of the inhabitants, but those who, living by the road 
side, were accustomed to receive money from travellers, and some- 
times to charge as much for their coarse fare, and wretched accom- 
modations, as would be paid in the Eastern States for the utmost 
comfort a tavern can afford. I therefore considered all the people 
a sordid and imposing set. But when I began to enter into the 
company of the Backwoodsmen, quite off the roads, and where a 



280 Early Travels in Indiana. 

traveller was seldom or never seen, I found the character of the 
settlers quite different from what I had supposed. In general 
they were open hearted and hospitable, giving freely whatever 
they had, and often refusing any recompense. It is true they 
always treated me as their equal; but at the same time, there was 
a sort of real civility in their behaviour, which I have often looked 
for in vain elsewhere. 

In the Backwoods, pork, or as they call it hogs-flesh, together 
with venison and hommony (boiled Indian corn), was my usual 
fare, and a blanket or two, on the floor of the cabin, my bed; 
but I was amply compensated for this want of luxuries by a degree 
of openness and hospitality, which indeed the most fastidious 
could not but have admired. Thus, on going away, my host has 
sometimes accompanied me four or five miles, in order to put me 
in the track leading to the road. 

But notwithstanding the instances of good-heartedness, and 
simplicity of manners, which one meets with in these wild coun- 
tries, yet few travellers are willing to quit the more frequented 
districts; and it is to this want of self-denial, that I should be dis- 
posed to attribute the erroneous accounts of the American char- 
acter which have been given us. Some of our travellers moreover, 
are in the practice of detailing all the disagreeable scenes of low 
life, which they have witnessed at the taverns, and hence lead 
their readers to form a very incorrect idea of the whole people. 
If an American traveller in England were to do the same, he would 
have no difficulty, in proving us the most profligate, immoral, and 
cheating nation on the face of the earth. 

After waiting in vain two days for the river to freeze over, so 
that I could pass on horseback, I at last hired two or three men, 
armed with poles, to assist in keeping off the cakes of ice; and thus 
succeeded in crossing, notwithstanding the width and rapidity 
of the river. 

Between the White River and Vincennes is a large swamp, inter- 
sected by a small stream. Over this swamp, for the distance. 
of two miles, is a piece of what the Western people very expressively 
term a "Corderoy Road," which is very common in these States, 
and is made wherever the ground is marshy. 

A Corderoy Road consists of small trees, stripped of their 
boughs, and laid touching one another, without any covering of 
earth. As the marsh underneath is of various degrees of solidity, 
the whole road assumes a kind of undulating appearance. I 
found some of the logs a little apart from one another; and was 



William Newnham Blaney. 281 

therefore constantly afraid, that the animal that carried me would 
break his leg; but he was a Western horse, and by the manner in 
which he picked his way, showed that he knew the clanger as 
well or better than I did. Any one crossing these logs in a wheeled 
carriage, must find the jolting truly formidable. 

Vincennes is a small straggling place, situated on the bank 
of the Wabash, and is one of the oldest towns in the United States. 
It was founded by the French, the same year that William Penn 
founded Philadelphia; and was, for a long time, partly a French, 
and partly an Indian village. It once supplied all the neighbour- 
ing country for a very great distance around, with goods and 
merchandize; but is now declining, partly from having lost its 
superiority as a depot for goods, and partly from the unhealthiness 
of its situation. I have scarcely been to a single spot on the west- 
ern side of the Ohio, where, during the autumn of 1822, the people 
had not suffered from sickness. 

The Wabash is a beautiful river, which, after a meandering 
course of about 600 miles, enters the Ohio in a stream about 400 
yards wide, 140 miles from the confluence, of that river with the 
Mississippi. It may be considered as the largest tributary stream 
that joins the Ohio from the west. Its own principal tributaries 
are White River, Little Wabash, Embarrass, Big and Little Eel 
Rivers, Tree Creek, Ponce Passau, or Wildcat, Tippecanoe, and 
Massissiniway. 

The Wabash flows through a rich and level country, which is 
well adapted to cultivation, and in which cotton has of late been 
raised successfully. 

On the Wabash are the towns of Harmony, Vincennes, and 
Terre-haute, besides several others, which, having only been lately 
erected, contain as yet few inhabitants. 

This river forms, for a considerable distance, the boundary 
between Indiana and Illinois. During the spring of the year, it 
is easily navigated by flat boats, as far as 450 miles from its junc- 
tion with the Ohio; and craft drawing only two or three feet 
water, may ascend it as far as Vincennes at almost any season. 

It is not till the traveller has crossed the Wabash, and advanced 
a considerable distance into the State of Illinois, that he can see 
any of the large "Prairies," of which there are many fertile ones 
on the west bank of the river. These Prairies, as their name 
denotes, are large open tracts of natural meadow, covered with 
luxuriant and rank grass, and destitute of trees or even shrubs. 



282 Early Travels in Indiana. 

There are no hills in them, though some have a gently undulating 
surface. 

I intended to have remained a few days at Vincennes, but 
the following circumstance drove me away the next morning. 

A Missouri planter, attended by two slaves, a man and woman, 
was travelling to St. Louis, in a small wheeled carriage called a 
"Dearborn," and had stopped at Vincennes to rest his horses. 
Now the day before I arrived, both his slaves had run away. 
Trying to travel all night when nearly barefooted, the man had 
both his feet so severely frost bitten, that he could not proceed. 
Consequently he was overtaken by some people sent after him by 
his master, and was brought back to Vincennes the very even- 
ing after my arrival. When I got up early the next morning, I 
saw the poor old slave, who had passed the night in the kitchen, 
with a heavy chain padlocked round both his legs. A man from 
North Carolina, who had ridden in company with me from White 
River, where he had been delayed, came into the room at the 
same time I did; and, although a slave holder himself, was touched 
with compassion at seeing the miserable state of this old negro. 
Having procured the key, he took off one of the padlocks, and 
desired the unhappy being to come towards the fire, in order to 
warm his frost-bitten legs and feet, which were much swollen, 
and were no doubt very painful. The poor slave was so lame he 
could hardly move, but managed to come and sit clown by the 
hearth. The Carolinian then said to him, "You have com- 
mitted a great crime, as you must be well aware — how came you 
to do it?" The negro replied, "Master, I am an old man, upwards 
of sixty years of age, and I have been all my life in bondage. Sev- 
eral white men told me, that as this was a free State, if I could 
run away I should be free; and you know master! what a tempta- 
tion that was. I thought if I could spend my few remaining days 
in freedom, I should die happy." But, replied the Carolinian, 
"You were a fool to run away; you know you are much better off 
as a slave, than if you were free." "Ah! master," said the poor 
old negro, "No one knows where the shoe pinches, but he who 
wears it." 

Just at this time, in came the master of the slave, and after 
swearing a terrible' oath that he would punish him, desired him to 
go and get ready the carriage. The poor old man answered that 
he was in too great pain even to stand upright. Upon this the 
brute, saying, "I will make you move, you old rascal," sent out for 
a "cowhide." Now the sort of whip called by this name is the most 



William Newnham Blaney. 283 

formidable one I ever saw. It is made of twisted strips of dried 
cow's skin; and from its weight, its elasticity, and the spiral form 
in which the thongs are twisted, must, when applied to the bare 
back, inflict the most intolerable torture. 

The wife of the tavern keeper coming in, and hearing that the 
negro was going to be flogged, merely said, "I would rather it had 
not been .on the Sabbath." For my part, I thought it signified 
very little upon what day of the week, such an atrocious act of 
wickedness was committed; so after trying in vain to obtain a 
relaxation of the punishment, I called for my horse, determined not 
to hear the cries of the suffering old man. Yet even when I had 
ridden far from the town, my imagination still pictured to me the 
horrors that were then being performed; and I should have thought 
myself deficient in human kindness, if I had not cursed from the 
bottom of my heart, every government, that, by tolerating slavery, 
could sanction a scene like this. 

Birkbeck's Settlement. — Emigration. 

From Vincennes, I turned to the left, in order to cross White 
River, below the junction of its two Forks, and proceed through 
Princetown and Harmony, to Birkbeck's English settlement at 
Albion. 

The road, or rather path, to the ferry on White River, runs 
chiefly through low flat Barrens, with here and there a patch of 
Prairie. Upon arriving at the bank, I found the ice running so 
thick, and in such very large cakes, that the boat could not cross. 
Some men with a drove of hogs had already waited there two 
days, and the ferryman said that I had very little chance of being 
able to cross for a day or two, and perhaps not for -a week. I 
therefore determined to cross the country, in a westerly direction, 
so as to meet the Wabash just above its junction with White 
River. 

Upon inquiring of the ferrymen, if there were any house in 
the neighbourhood at which I could stop, they informed me that 
there was only one, which belonged to a Scotch gentleman who 
had lately settled in this part of the country. "But although," 
said one of them, "I am certain he does not keep open house, yet 
perhaps as you are a stranger, he will allow you to stay there 
tonight." 

As it was getting late I determined to lose no time, and accord- 
ingly, after a ride through the woods of about two miles, I found 
myself at the settlement. 



284 Early Travels in Indiana. 

The house, which was of a much better description than any I 
had lately seen, was situated on a gentle rise, overlooking the river, 
and surrounded with a large space of cleared land. I dismounted, 
and upon opening the door was delighted to see six or seven men in 
Highland bonnets, sitting round a blazing fire. I mentioned to the 
gentleman that I was a stranger, and should feel much obliged to 
him, for a night's lodging for myself and my horse; upon which he 
immediately, with the genuine hospitality I have so often experi- 
enced in his native land, said that I was welcome to stay there, and 
to partake of whatever his house afforded. 

He had left Perthshire at the head of twenty of his coun- 
trymen, and had fixed himself on this spot; and although he had 
only been here eight months, had already put every thing into 
very good order. 

My fare was sumptuous, compared to what it had been for 
some time past; and moreover I had a good bed to sleep in, with a 
pair of fine clean sheets. 

I am particular in noticing this luxury, because it was only in 
two other places that I enjoyed it, during the whole of my travels, 
in the States of Indiana, Illinois, and Missouri. In general the 
beds were altogether without sheets; and the blankets had prob- 
ably, since their manufacture, never experienced the renovating 
effects of a good washing. Sometimes indeed there would be one 
sheet, and occasionally two; but cleanliness in this particular I 
had almost despaired of. 

Many of my countrymen, because they have not met with 
much comfort in these out of the way places, have, upon their 
return home, most unjustly and ridiculously imputed the same 
want of comfort to every part of the United States. But let us 
consider, that from Vincennes to Louisville is a distance of 120 
miles, and that from thence to Washington, by the ordinary route 
up the Ohio river and through Wheeling is 731 miles: so that one 
of these delicate travellers would be equally entitled to abuse the 
whole of Great Britain, because he might meet with bad accom- 
modation in the Orkneys. Moreover, woods are not cut down, 
and good inns established, in a day, nor even a year; and he who 
cannot put up With some inconvenience will do well to avoid travel- 
ling in a new country.* 

This settlement is in a beautiful situation, surrounded by fertile 

*In many places where I have met with execrable accommodation, future travellers 
will find good inns: for the whole country is so rapidly improving, that what is true of 
the Backwoods one year ceases to be so the next. 



William Newnham Blaney. 285 

land; but alas! it has shared the fate of all the neighbourhood with 
regard to sickness; two of the emigrants having died, and several 
others being very ill. I went away in the morning, after receiv- 
ing an invitation from my worthy host to repeat my visit if I 
should ever pass again in that direction. 

The path' from hence to the Wabash, lies through a thickly 
wooded country, abounding in game. I expected to have had much 
difficulty in crossing the river ; for though there was a ferry boat, it 
had been drawn ashore and was frozen to the ground. Fortu- 
nately, however, I found a man going over in a flat boat with some 
cattle. The Wabash just above had closed up and frozen over, so 
that here, where the stream was very rapid, there was little or no 
floating ice. 

I now crossed the Little Wabash, on which river Carmi is 
situated, and proceeded through a very thickly wooded country 
towards Harmony. The road, about four miles before arriving at 
this place, passes through the low grounds, or as they are called, 
"the Flats" of the Big Wabash. The lands of the river bottoms, or 
fiats, throughout the whole of the United States, are always reck- 
oned very rich and productive, and those of the Wabash are partic- 
ularly so. They are covered with immensely large trees, between 
which grows, in amazing luxuriance, that noble vegetable the 
Cane (Arundinaria Macrosperma). 

This beautiful and useful plant attains the height of from 
twenty to thirty feet. The fertile tracts, where it grows, are called 
Cane Brakes, and are always full of herds of cattle, who are very 
fond of its leaves, which remain green all the winter. 

The low grounds of the Wabash would be thickly settled, and 
soon covered with a swarming population; but during a month or 
two in the Autumn, Fevers and Agues seem to stalk about here, 
seeking whom they may destroy. Indeed thecountenances of the 
few settlers bespeak how often they have been attacked by these 
diseases. Where the ground has been cleared for any consider- 
able space, the sickness does not prevail to such an extent. This 
is the case with the settlement of Harmony; but, even there, the 
inhabitants had in the autumn suffered a great deal. 

The trees growing immediately on the banks of the Wabash, 
must, from their immense size, astonish every one. The Plane, 
with its long white arms, and the Tulip-tree (Liriodendron Tulipi- 
fera) called by the Americans the Poplar, attain to an enormous 
magnitude throughout the whole of the Western States. 

There is a ferry which conveys the traveller directly over the 



286 Early Travels in Indiana. 

Wabash to Harmony. This pretty little town contains numerous 
well built, three-storied, brick houses, placed in regular streets, 
with a small railed garden to each, all conveying a great idea of 
comfort, particularly to a man travelling in the Backwoods. 
There are two churches with spires, on one of which is a clock, 
made by a settler, which strikes, even the quarters, upon some large 
bells that were. imported on purpose. I had been so long without 
hearing anything of the kind, that during the week I remained 
there, the lively tones of these bells gave me great delight. 

Mr. Rapp, the founder of the Society, was a dissenter from 
the Lutheran church, and finding himself persecuted by the clergy 
and the nobles, for the tenets he promulgated, came in 1803, from 
near Stutgard in Wurtemburg, to the United States, with nearly 
400 adherents. They first settled at a place they called Harmony, 
in Butler county Pennsylvania, 25 miles from Pittsburg. Here 
their number was soon increased by emigration to near 800 souls, 
but not finding Pennsylvania in all respects suited to their views, 
they sent in 1814, three of their head men to choose another 
place. Accordingly, they have now fixed their residence 55 miles 
from Vincennes, 40 from Shawnee town, 24 from Birkbeck's 
Settlement, and 100 by water from the mouth of the Wabash. 

By the sale of their houses, their improvements, &c. in Penn- 
sylvania, they obtained a very large sum of money, and with this 
they purchased several thousand acres of the best land in Indiana. 
Upon arriving at their present abode, they erected log-cabins; 
but as they intended from the first to built brick houses, they 
marked out very carefully and with much regularity the intended 
streets of their town, and by placing the log-cabins at the back 
part of the different lots, left themselves sufficient space to erect 
their future habitations, without being obliged to move out of 
their old ones. 

They have indeed proceeded in every thing with the greatest 
order and regularity. They possessed when I was there 100 
brick buildings, had planted an extensive vineyard, and made con- 
siderable quantitities of pleasant tasted wine. They carried on a 
very extensive system of agriculture, and their flocks and herds 
were uncommonly numerous. There is a blacksmith's shop with 
two furnaces, a thrashing machine, a distillery, brewery, tannery, 
&c. There is also a large woolen and cotton-factory, the spindles 
and machinery of which are worked by steam, as is also their mill 
for grinding flour. Indeed they carry on almost every kind of use- 
ful manufacture, and make hats, shoes, sadlery, linen, cotton and 



, William Newnham Blaney. 287 

woolen cloths, &c. Their broad cloth is very good; and their flan- 
nel of so excellent a quality, many of the English settlers at 
Albion say, that it is superior to the best Welsh flannel they 
brought out with them. Every one belongs to some particular 
trade or employment, and never interferes with the others, or 
even indeed knows what they are about. The only occasion on 
which they are all called out, is in the event of sudden bad weather, 
when the hay or corn is cut, but not carried. In such a case, Rapp 
blows a horn, and the whole community, both men and women, 
leave their occupations, run out to the fields, and the crop is soon 
gathered in, or placed in safety. There is a party of blacksmiths, 
shoemakers, weavers, shepherds, ploughmen or agriculturists, 
&c. Over every one of these trades there is a head man, who acts 
as an overseer, and who, in particular cases, as with the black- 
smith, shoemaker, &c, receives payment for any work done for 
strangers. None of the inferiors of each occupation will receive 
the money. The head man, or foreman, always gives a receipt 
for the money he receives, which receipt is signed by Rapp, who 
thus knows every cent that is taken, and to whom all the money 
collected is transferred. When any one of their number wants a 
hat, coat, or any thing else, he applies to the head man of his 
trade or employment, who gives him an order, which is also signed 
by Rapp, after which he goes to the store and gets what he 
wants. 

They have one large store, in which is deposited all the 
articles they manufacture. The neighbouring settlers for many 
miles round, resort to this, not only on account of the excellence, 
but also the cheapness of the goods. This store is managed by 
Mr. Baker, who holds the next rank to Rapp himself. The Har- 
monites have also branch stores in Shawnee town, and elsewhere, 
which they supply with goods, and which are managed by their 
agents. 

An excellent house of private entertainment is kept by one of 
their number, named Ekensperker. Every thing here was so 
clean, comfortable, and well arranged, that I was quite delighted. 

The house they have built for their founder Rapp, is very 
large and handsome, and would be esteemed a good house in any 
part of Europe. In the court-yard, Rapp has placed a great 
curiosity, which he brought from the shore of the Mississippi, near 
St. Louis. It is a block of marble of the size of a large tombstone, 
on which are two impressions of the human foot, so uncom- 



288 Early Travels in Indiana. » 

monly well defined, perfect, and natural as to be worthy even of 
Canova. 

The Indians certainly could not have executed anything of 
the kind ; and the general opinion is, that some human being must 
have passed over the marble when it was of the consistency of 
clay, and thus have left the impression of his feet. The impres- 
sions indeed appear to have been made by some one who was 
running, or else stooping forward to pick up something. But I 
can hardly myself imagine, how or where a piece of marble could 
ever have been in so soft a state, as to receive the impression of a 
human foot. I hope that the marble will soon be inspected by some 
one competent to give an opinion, particularly as the impres- 
sions may at no great length of time be effaced, from being 
always left exposed to the weather. 

The religious tenets of the Harmonites are not very well 
known; but it is at any rate certain that they profess equality and 
the community of possessions. The most extraordinary part of 
their system is their celibacy; for the men and women live sep- 
arate, and are not allowed any intercourse. In order to keep up 
their numbers they have once or twice sent agents to Germany 
to bring over proselytes, for they admit no Americans. Among 
those that last came over, were great many children of both 
sexes. 

Very few of the inhabitants of Harmony could speak English, 
and indeed the young boys and girls are chiefly educated in the 
German tongue. The policy of the head men appears to be, that 
of preventing, as much as possible, any of their inferiors from 
communicating with the Americans, fearing no doubt, that they 
would see the folly of their system. 

What struck me as very singular was, that no one would answer 
any questions. Even my host Ekensperker, when I asked if they 
were permitted to marry, what became of all the money they col- 
lected, &c, invariably replied, "We never answer these ques- 
tions." Some few persons have seceded from this society. These 
have generally been young men, who sacrificing fanaticism to 
nature, have gone off with young women and married them. 
By good fortune I chanced to meet one of these men, and learned 
from him a few particulars of the sect ; but even he did not appear 
to be very willing to communicate what he knew. He told me that 
marriage was interdicted; but could give me no reason why it 
was. Moreover he told me, that it is unknown what becomes of 
all the money Rapp receives. Now this must be a very con- 



William Newnham Blaney. 289 

siderable sum, as the Harmonites neglect no means of amassing 
money. For instance, they send every year boats laden with pro- 
duce to New Orleans; and the little settlement of Albion has paid 
them altogether nearly 60,000 dollars, though at present it is 
rapidly becoming independent of them. 

The Harmonites will receive in payment no other money but 
specie or United States Bank notes. At the same time they expend 
nothing; and indeed money appears to be of no use to men, pro- 
ducing food, and manufacturing all necessaries within their own 
settlement. Every thing is sold in Rapp's name, and all the 
money is transmitted to him, even the proceeds of the house of 
entertainment and the doctor's shop. 

This secrecy about the great sums that must be collected 
annually by the united labour of seven or eight hundred indus- 
trious individuals, possessed of a great deal of skill, and having 
the entire monopoly of the neighbouring country, has, I must 
confess, a very suspicious appearance, especially as Rapp holds a 
correspondence with Germany. At the same time, as he is an old 
man, and never intends to leave Harmony, I do not see any thing 
he could gain by sending away the money. 

The Harmonites all dress very plainly and wear nearly the 
same clothes; but Rapp and the head men live in better houses, 
and have plenty of wine, beer, groceries, &c; while the rest of 
their brethren are limited to coarse, though wholesome food, are 
debarred the use of groceries, &c, have a less quantity of meat, 
and are even obliged to make use of an inferior kind of flour. 

In their celibacy, and in some other points, they resemble the 
Shakers, though they differ from them in refusing to admit pros- 
elytes. They are in fact only a somewhat improved order of 
industrious monks and nuns, except that they are very unwill- 
ing to have any thing known about themselves, and are by no 
means anxious to make converts. If they spoke English, and 
were allowed a free intercourse with the Americans, they would 
soon learn, that with the same habits of temperance, industry, 
and economy, they could in that rich and fertile district have every 
comfort they at present enjoy, with the additional satisfaction of 
amassing money for themselves, and of having children who would 
doubtless rise to opulence and consideration. 

At present however Rapp points out to them the difference 
between their situation and that of the Backwoodsmen in the 
neighbourhood, leaving them to suppose, that this superiority is 
owing to their peculiar tenets and mode of life. Moreover, as I am 

T— 19 



290 Early Travels in Indiana. 

informed. Rapp, like all other Priests, holds out eternal punish- 
ment in the next world to those who secede. Like the Virgilian 
"Rex Anius, rex idem hominum, Phoebique Sacerdos," he is both 
Governor and Priest, preaching to them in church and manag- 
ing when out of it their pecuniary affairs. Hence this society pre- 
sents the extraordinary spectacle of a most complete despotism in 
the midst of a great republic: for with the exception perhaps of 
being a little better clothed and fed, the lower orders of the 
Harmonites are as much vassals, or more so, than they were in 
Germany. 

The settlement was once a benefit to the neighbourhood; 
but at present most of the Americans consider it as injurious. 
At first the people, for a great distance around the Settlement, 
being supplied with goods that they could not easily procure else- 
where, considered it advantageous to them; but they now think 
precisely the contrary; for the Harmonites, not having to pay their 
workmen, are enabled to under-sell every one who would wish to 
set up a store, and thus prevent competition. Moreover, as in 
exchange for their cloths, linens, hats, whiskey, &c. ; they receive 
vast sums of money which they never spend, and thus diminish 
the circulating medium of the country. 

"If," say the Americans, "an ordinary merchant could come 
among us, and set up a store, as he grew rich he would increase his 
expenditure, and the money would circulate and enrich those who 
supplied him with meat, bread, &c; but these people spend noth- 
ing, and therefore we should be very glad to see their society 
destroyed." 

Old Rapp has transferred most of the active superintendence 
of the temporal concerns of the society to his adopted son Fred- 
eric Rapp, thus accustoming the people to a sort of hereditary 
despotism. We may however very much doubt, whether the 
society will hold together after the old man's death, an event 
which in the course of nature must soon take place. 

The people, under the present system, are a set of well-fed, 
well-clothed, hard-working vassals. They are very grave and 
serious. During the whole time I was at Harmony, I never saw 
one of them laugh; indeed they appeared to me to enjoy only a 
sort of melancholy contentment, which makes a decided differ- 
ence between them and the inhabitants of the other parts of the 
country, who without fanaticism or celibacy, find themselves well 
off and comfortable. 



From Memorable days in America; being a journal of a 
tour to the United States, by W. Faux [1823], pp. 
203-268. 

Faux, William. 

Chief among those Englishmen who scorned everything American after 
the second war with Great Britain was one William Faux, author of Memor- 
able days in America. 

He calls himself an English Farmer, whose tour to the United States 
was principally undertaken "to ascertain, by positive evidence, the condi- 
tion and probable prospects of British emigrants; including accounts of Mr. 
Birkbeck's settlement in Illinois; and intended to shew Men and Things as 
they are in America." 

His accounts were simply one line of ridicule after another, and in the 
language of one of his fellow reviewers bore the earmarks of a "simpleton of 
the first water, a capital specimen of a village John Bull, for the first time 
roaming far away from his native valley — staring at everything and grumb- 
ling at most." 

His accounts therefore while both interesting and amusing are of little 
real value. 

October 27th, 1819. — At sun-rise I left Louisville, in Colonel 
Johnson's carriage and pair, for Vincennes, in Indiana, well 
pleased to turn my back on all the spitting, gouging, dirking, 
duelling, swearing, and staring, of old Kentucky. 

I crossed the Ohio at Portland, and landed at New Albion, a 
young rising village, to breakfast, where, for the first time in 
America, I found fine, sweet, white, home-baked bread. The 
staff of life is generally sour, and, though light and spongy, very 
ill-flavoured, either from bad leaven, or the flour sweating and 
turning sour in the barrel. 

At eleven, a. m., I rested, and baited at a farm log-house, 
having one room only; the farmer came to it ten years ago, and has 
settled on two quarter sections of land. He has a good horsemill 
at work, night and day, to which people come with grist, from 
10 to 15 miles, working it with their own horses, four in number, 
and leaving him (the miller) an eighth for his toll. "My land" 
(says he) "is good, but not like that of old Kentuck. I get from 
40 to 60 bushels of corn, and wheat, 25 to 30 bushels per acre, and 
a market, at my door, in supplying gentlemen-travellers, and 
emigrants." The first house is, for five or six years, a miserable 
hole, with one room only, after which, rises a better, and the old 
one remains for a kitchen. This man seems full of money, and 

(291) 



292 Early Travels in Indiana. 

knows all things; he damns the state government for denying him 
the privilege of slavery, and of using his Kentucky negroes, who, 
in consequence, (he says) are hired and exposed to cruelty. "I 
was raised under a monarchy government, in Virginia, where every 
man did as he pleased. This Indiana a free state, and yet not at 
liberty to use its own property! You tell me to quit it, I guess, if 
I do not like it." "Yes, I do." "Well then, the government, 
cl — n it, has the power, it seems to drive me out." This strange 
man was very civil and coarsely kind to me, and whispered aside 
to my driver, that he knew I was a very large proprietor in this 
state. 

I travelled till sun-set, 32 miles from the Ohio, and slept at 
Mrs. Moore's farm-log-house tavern, with three rooms, and a 
broken window in each; all moderately comfortable, until the 
pitiless, pelting storms of winter come, when it will snow and blow 
upon the beds. My hostess would, in England, pass for a witch, 
having a singularly long, yellow, haggish, dirty, face and com- 
plexion. She has three fine sons, but no servants. They do all 
the household work, and that on the farm, themselves, hiring 
none. They clear five or six acres every year, have cleared 60 
acres, and mean that the other 60 of their quarter section s-hould 
remain in wood. They located themselves here eight years since, 
and find good land, good crops, and a market at the door. Two 
of the young Moores mounted their horses, and, with five dogs, 
set off hunting at bed-time, until midnight, after racoons, foxes, 
wolves, bears, and wild cats. I saw a skin of the latter animal, 
much like a tame cat, only bigger, and its tail shorter; they live on 
partridges and young pigs, and poultry when they can get them; 
they never mew and call out like the domestic cat. Here is a pet 
bear, which took an ear of Indian corn out of my hand. One of 
these pets recently broke its chain, and came into the house, where 
lay a sick and bedridden man, and an infant child on the floor, 
with which the bear, much pleased, marched off. The poor old 
man, not knowing, till then, that he was able to turn himself in 
bed, suddenly acquired supernatural strength, sprung out, and 
running after the bear, threw him down, rescued the screaming 
babe, unhugged and unhurt, and then jumped into bed again. 

28th. — Now quite out of society; every thing and every body, 
with some few exceptions, looks wild, and half savage. To his 
honor Judge Chambers's, to breakfast. His log-tavern is com- 
fortable; he farms two and a half quarter sections, and raises from 
40 to 60 bushels of corn an acre. Nearly all the good land on this 



William Faux. 293 

road is entered. "I had," says he, "hard work for the first two or 
three years." The judge is a smart man of about 40, and not only a 
judge, but a senator also, and what is more, the best horse- 
jockey in the state. He seems very active, prudent, cautious, and 
industrious, and, like all the rest of the people on this road, kind- 
hearted. He fills the two-fold station of waiter and ostler in part; 
I say in part, for, as he has no servant, the drudgery must be done 
by the traveller himself, if he have a horse or horses. His honor 
left my driver to do all, and hastily rode off to a distant mill for 
his grist, now much wanted, and with which he returned in about 
two hours, while her honor, Mrs. Judge, and the six Miss Judges, 
prepared my good breakfast. These ladies do all the work of the 
house, and some of the field, every thing seems comfortable and 
easy to them, although the blue sky and the broad sun stare and 
peep through cracks and crevices in the roof of their house. 
While I sat at breakfast, his honor's mother, a fine smart young 
woman of four-score, came briskly riding up, and alighted at the 
door; as good a horsewoman as ever mounted a side-saddle. She 
had been to pay a distant visit, and seemed as though her strength 
and youth were renewed, like the eagle's. She reminded me of 
Moses, ""with his .eye not dim, nor his natural force abated." 

At noon, I stopped at another log-house, quarter-section farm- 
er's, with two fine healthy boys, much civilized, who, of them- 
selves, have cleared forty acres of heavily timbered land, such 
as is seldom seen, and cropped it twice in eighteen months. 
What prodigious industry! It is, they say, worth ten dollars 
an acre clearing. It is; and an Englishmen would, indeed, think 
so, and demand double and treble that sum, for that quantity of 
excessive labour. They, however, now wish to sell out their 
improved quarter section, and remove further from the road. 
These young men drink spring water, and like it better than whis- 
key, and look heartier and healthier than any settlers I have yet 
seen in the wilds. 

I rested all night at another quarter-section farmer's, who, 
together with his brother and wife, has cleared thirty acres in 
eighteen months, without hired hands, and is now rearing a second 
log-house. They find a market at their door for all they can raise, 
and ten times as much, if they could raise it. They burn all the 
logs and trees rolled together in immense heaps, and prefer the 
wood-land to the barrens, the latter being thinly timbered with 
dwarfish trees and shrubs. The wife, husband, brother, and three 
wild children, sleep in one room, together with three or four travel- 



294 Early Travels in Indiana. 

lers, all on the floor, bedless, but wrapt up in blankets. I, being a 
mighty fine man, was put into the new house, which, though with- 
out either doors or windows, was distinguished by one bed on a 
bedstead, both home-made, and as soft as straw and wood could 
be. Into this bed was I honourably put, and at midnight favoured 
with a bed-fellow, a stranger Yankee man whom I had seen on the 
mountains; and at my feet, on the floor, slept two Irish, and one 
poor sick American, all pedestrians, who had wandered here in 
quest of employment. Thus housed and bedded, we were faith- 
fully watched and guarded by several huge hunting dogs, lying 
around the entrance of our bed -room, barking and growling to the 
howling wolves, bears, foxes, and wild cats, now roaming around, 
and seeming ready to devour us. Our hostess hung on the cook- 
all, and gave us fowls, ill-flavoured bacon, and wild beef, all 
stewed down to rags like hotch-potch, together with coffee and 
home-made sugar, for supper and breakfast. All was coarse, 
wild, and ill-flavoured. 

29th. — At sunrise I passed two waggons and herds of cattle 
and people, very wild-looking and Indian-like, rising from camp, 
having camped out all night after the fashion of English gypsies. 
Stopped at a wretched cabin, having only one room, and that 
brimful of great dirty boys and girls, all very ragged and 
half naked; and again at the house of a Mr. Lewis, from Virginia, 
where every thing presented a fine contrast; clean, healthy, 
civilized children. 

Breakfasted at an infant ville, Hindostan, on the falls of the 
White River, a broad crystal stream, running navigable to the 
Ohio, over a bed of sand and stone, smooth and white as a floor of 
marble. This baby ville is flourishing; much building is in progress 
and it promises to become a pleasant, healthy, large town, before I 
see it again. The land, too, is rich and inviting. I now crossed, in 
my chariot, White River, and in two hours after stopped at a 
quarter-section farmer's, who has never cleared nor inclosed any 
of his land, because sick or idle; being, however, well enough to 
hunt daily, a sport which, as he can live by it, he likes better 
than farming; "and besides," says he, "we had at first so many 
wild beasts about us, that we could not keep pigs, poultry, sheep, 
nor anything else." Called on another quarter-section man, 
sick, and who therefore has done but little himself; two young 
boys have cleared five or six acres. The tavern keeps them all; a 
tavern, with one miserable hole of a room. 

I stopped again at a two quarter-section farmer's, who said; 



William Faux. 295 

"I am an old man, and have only my boys; we cannot hire, but we 
do all the labour, and get 60 bushels of corn per acre, but no 
wheat of any consequence yet. We can always sell all the pro- 
duce we raise from the land to travellers like you, and others, new 
comers." "But," said I, "what will you do when your said new 
comers and neighbours have as much to spare and sell as you 
have?" "0, then we'll give it to cattle and pigs, which can travel 
to a market somewhere. I see no fear of a market in some shape 
or other." This was a shrewd old fellow. 

I met and passed five or six huge waggons laden with goods, 
chattels, and children, and families, attended by horsemen, cat- 
tle, and footmen, and many negroes, all returning from the 
Missouri territory to their native home and state of Kentucky, 
which they had rashly left only two months since. Having 
sold out there in good times at 30 dollars an acre, and being now 
scared out of Missouri by sickness, they are returning to repur- 
chase their former homes in Kentucky at 15 dollars an acre; or 
perhaps, says my informant, they may return to the Missouri, 
when the fear of sickness subsides. They have left their father 
behind, as a pledge of returning; but still 100 acres in Old Ken- 
tuck are worth 300 in Missouri, except in river-bottoms, that is, 
valleys of rivers. 

Passed another Washington, a young county seat (or 
town) and several fine neighbourhoods of rich land, full of iron- 
weed, but not so rank as in Kentucky, yet bearing plenty of huge 
sugar-trees. Every state in this mighty Union seems emulous of 
building towns, monumental piles of immortality to General 
Washington. 

- Rested for the night at a good bricked house tavern on the 
White-river ferry, but without one glass window in it. It is get- 
ting old and wearing out before it is finished. Here I found a 
good supper of buck venison, fowls, whiskey, and coffee. My 
hostess, the owner, was lately a rich widow, and might have 
remained so, but for a Yankee soldier with a knapsack at his 
back, whose lot it was to call at her house. They are now married, 
and he is lord of the tavern, land and all. My host had a large 
party of distant neighbours assembled to effect a corn shucking, 
something like an English hawkey, or harvest home. All, gentle, 
and simple, here work hard till eleven at night. Corn shucking 
means plucking the ears of Indian corn from the stalk, and then 
housing it jn cribs, purposely made to keep it in, for winter use. 
The. stalk is left in the field; the leaves, while half green, are 



296 Early Travels in Indiana. 

stripped off, and tied up in bundles, as hay for horses and cattle, 
and good food it is, much resembling in form the flags in English 
marshes. After I had retired to bed the hawkey supper com- 
menced; all seemed fun, created by omnipotent whiskey, with 
which they plentifully supplied me, although in bed. "The 
Doctor, the Squire, the Colonel," said they, "shall drink and lack 
no good thing." I was consequently pressed to rise and join 
them, about one o'clock. I refused. "Then," said they, "Doctor, 
you shall drink in bed." My charioteer had foolishly called me 
Doctor, Squire, Colonel, and what not, during the whole of this 
wilderness journey; hence, I was here applied to as an eminent 
physician. 

30th. — Travelled 12 miles to breakfast on fine buck venison 
at three farthings per pound, or one dollar for the buck, at the 
house of a shrewd old kind-hearted Pennsylvanian, now nearly 
worn out and ready to sleep, either with or without, his fathers. 
"I have," says he, "lately lost my son, and my farms are running 
fast to ruin. I have 200 acres, some of which I hire out, and I 
have just finished what my son began, a good new log-house. 
This Indiana is the best country in the world for young men. 
Were I a young man I would live no where else in all the universal 
world." "Although," says he, "many hundreds of waggons, with 
droves of men and beasts, four or five hundred in a drove, and at 
least 5,000 souls from Kentucky have passed my house since last 
harvest, all bound for the Missouri." 

At eleven, p. m., I reached Old Vincennes, the first and old- 
est town in this state, situated in a fine woodless Prairie on the 
banks of the big Wabash, a fine broad, clear, and generally deep 
stream, running to the Ohio by Shawneese town, but when its 
waters are low, weeds rise from the bottom, and grow, and rot, 
and impregnate the air with pestilence. On passing through this 
place, a farmer said that last spring he lost seven cows, and that 
hundreds were poisoned by some unknown herb found growing in 
their pastures on river-bottom land. A medical botanist was here 
much wanted. An immense quantity of land in the neighbour- 
ing state of Illinois, is here, I see, posted up in this town for sale or 
lease, for a term of years, at one peck of corn per acre, per annum. 
But who will hire, when nearly all can buy? I passed away my 20 
dollar note of the rotten bank of Harmony, Pennsylvania, for five 
dollars only! so losing 31. 7s. 6d. sterling. I was indebted five 
dollars to my faithful driver, who was now to leave me behind 
and press on to St. Louis, Missouri. I said, "Now, driver, which 



William Faux. 297 

will you have; five silver dollars, or the 20 dollar note; or what 
more than your demand will you give for the said note?" "Noth- 
ing." "Then take it, and bless banks and banking for ever." 
Bank paper is here an especial nuisance, and ever fruitful source 
of evil, and ever very unfriendly to honesty, peace, and good will 
amongst hosts and travellers, who meet and part, cheating and 
cheated, cursed and cursing, continually. My landlord here is 
very obliging, and puts me into the best room and bed in the Vin- 
cennes hotel, where I am sleeping with a sick traveller from St. 
Louis, who states that many die daily, and his doctor there had 150 
patients to visit every day, or oftener. So much for the health- 
iness of the ever-tempting Missouri. 

Sunday, 31s/. — The town of Vincennes is more than 200 years 
old; older than Philadelphia; but being of French origin, and in the 
neighbourhood of the Indians, ever hostile to the inhabitants and 
settlers round it, has grown but slowly, and is an antique lump of 
deformity. Although long the capital and mother town of the 
state, it looks like an old, worn out, dirty village of wooden frame 
houses, which a fire might much improve, for improvement gen- 
erally has to travel through flames. Here is no church, save the 
Catholic church, the inhabitants being principally French Cana- 
dians, and the rest the refuse of the east, whose crimes have driven 
them hither, or dissipated young men unable to live at home. 
Hence Sunday is only a day of frolic and recreation, which com- 
mences on the Saturday evening, when every preparation is 
devoutly made for the Sabbath, and off they start in large parties 
on foot and on horseback, all riflemen, and cunning hunters, into 
the deep recesses of the forest, camping out all night in readiness 
for sabbath sacrifices, the bucks, the bears, the squirrels, and the 
turkeys, ready to be offered up by .peep of day. This holy day is 
consequently ushered in by guns, which continue to roar in and 
around the town all day until sunset. The stranger might think 
it was closely besieged, or that an enemy was approaching. The 
steam flour-mill, a large grinding establishment of extortion, giv- 
ing only 30 lbs. of flour for one bushel of wheat, weighing 60 lbs. 
is in operation all this da}', and on other days, day and night, and 
blacksmiths' shops are in high bustle, blazing, blowing, and ham- 
mering in direct opposition to a law against Sunday business and 
pleasure, but which is never feared, because never enforced. The 
refuse, rather than the flower of the east, seems, with some excep- 
tions, to be here. But still good is coming out of evil. The east is 



298 Early Travels in Indiana. 

thus disencumbered, and the west is peopled. Posterity will shew 
a better face. Such is the process of empire. 

I rambled round the town to the court-house, or shire-hall, 
really externally an elegant building, but decaying before finished, 
as though the state were unable to finish what it had so well 
begun before counting the cost. The State Seminary, a very 
respectable edifice, but in little better plight, was built by Uncle 
Sam, and endowed with an ample township in the state. It is, 
however, only a nominal seminary, because the trustees are not 
empowered to sell any of its land for raising funds, but must derive 
them from hiring and leasing it out in farms. But while plenty of 
uncleared or cleared farms can be bought at two dollars an acre, 
who will ever think of hiring? 

I saw two Indian graves on the eastern banks of the Wabash. 
Each hillock is carefully arched over with broad stripes of bark, 
each three feet wide, with logs and sticks, or bands across. The 
bodies are buried from one to two feet deep only. Visited the house 
of J. Lowndes, Esq., the prison philanthropist and Howard of 
America, but did not see him. He was gone, as an Indian ambas- 
sador, to the government in Washington city assembled, and I 
passed him unconsciously on Thursday last, when I saw and noted 
in a handsome chariot, a venerable gentlemanly, dignified count- 
enance. It was that of this good and honourable man. I pre- 
sented his lady, once the widow of the late Judge Vanderburgh, 
with my introductory letter to her husband, which I had brought 
from one of my friends at Washington city. She regretted the 
absence of her spouse, and received me graciously. This gen- 
erous man is gone a third time to the President on behalf of the 
Indian chiefs who call him their father, having appointed and 
chosen him as the only honest American whom they have ever 
known; all with whom they before had dealt or treated, tricked 
them out of their lands. Mr. Lowndes knows their language, 
and has a speech always put into his mouth by these barbarian 
grandees. "Go," said they, "go, father, and tell our great father, 
the President, how we are deviled and cheated, and if he does not 
do us justice, go, tell him he is a hog, and that we would burn up 
the land if we could." Mr. L. replied, "that this was an undutiful 
speech for children to send to their father;" but in great rage they 
rejoined in their own tongue, "He is only a man." The chiefs, 
whom Mr. Lowndes represents, are of the Delaware tribe, the 
posterity of those from whom William Penn so honourably bought 



William Faux. 299 

Pennsylvania, and who traditionally revere his memory down to 
this day. 

November 1st. — During the last month the weather has been 
cold and dry, but generally clear and without fogs, and in the 
night frosty, shewing ice half an inch thick. Summer and I parted 
on the last of September, at Washington city, where she lingers 
until Christmas. Late last evening my host returned from his 
Sunday hunt, heavily laden with his share of the game, namely, 
two wild ducks, one wild turkey, seven squirrels, and one fine 
fat buck of 130 lbs. weight. Hunting seems the everlasting delight 
of this town. When I went to bed last night the prairie and forest 
were both enveloped in a wide-spreading, sky-reddening blaze, 
which the hunters had kindled to drive out and start the game. 

I met this morning Mr. Baker of Philadelphia, an intelligent 
traveller, who knows my friend J. Ingle, living eighty miles further 
west of this place, and who has kindly borrowed a horse for me, 
and agrees to pilot me thither tomorrow. I saw a large party of 
Miami Indian hunters, accompanied by their ugly squaws, all on 
horseback, and all astride, with their tomahawks and frightful 
knives girdled round them, dressed in blankets and turbans, and 
painted red, green, black, and white; every feature having a 
different shade of colour, and all, save the squaws, apparently 
half drunk, having their bottle of fire-water, or whiskey, with 
them, which, after drinking from it themselves, they stopped and 
handed to me and my friend Baker. We took it and applied it to 
our lips, it being considered the perfection of rudeness and bar- 
barism, and little short of enmity, to refuse any thing so kindly 
offered. This tribe had approached the town for the purpose of 
selling their venison. Each horse carried two or three quarters, 
fat and fine, ready skinned, and hanging down its sides. The 
price was only a quarter dollar for 30 lbs., not an English half- 
penny per pound. 

Although Vincennes is an old mother town, abounding in rich 
land, it is uncultivated, and there is occasionally a scarcity of 
necessaries, particularly of milk and butter, which, with the 
worst tea, are dealt out very sparingly; no lump sugar, no brandy, 
no segars, no spitoons are seen at this hotel. 

All persons here, and all whom I have met, hitherto, during 
this western pilgrimage, whether they have or have not visited 
Birkbeck, think very meanly of both him and his settlement. 
The English emigrants particularly, (says Mr. ) deem them- 
selves deceived and injured by his books and mis-statements. 



300 Early Travels in Indiana. 

2nd. — Yesterday at noon came on a heavy gale, which filled 
the atmosphere for the remainder of the day and night, with a 
strange mixture of hot smoke, ashes, and dusty sand, to the 
density and hue of a London fog in December. The sun was com- 
pletely shorn of his beams, and the whole horizon, for unknown 
miles in circumference, filled with a blinding commotion, like a 
gale in the great desert; and at night to the N. W. the sky blazed 
and reddened over a great extent, while the big Wabash blushed, 
and the whole atmosphere became illuminated, as though it was 
the kindling up of the last universal conflagration. 

At ten this morning I left old Vincennes for Princetown. The 
horse which my friend Baker had borrowed for me was mean 
and mis-shapen, but covered with buffalo skins, which hide all 
defects. The horses here are nearly all mean, wild, deformed, 
half grown, dwarfish things, and much in taste and tune with 
their riders. The pigs, every where in great abundance, seem 
more than half wild, and at the approach of man fly, or run like 
deer at the sight of an Indian rifle. Throughout the western 
regions they look starved to death. This, however, is a bad 
season for them, there being little mast, that is, acorns, nuts, and 
other wild fruit and herbage. I passed over an extensive, sandy, 
black, burning prairie, the cause of yesterday's and today's thick 
hazy atmosphere, the sun looking more like the moon, and as if 
turned into blood. At noon, I rode through a large rich river- 
bottom valley, on the banks of the White River, and which, in 
winter, is as yet overflowed, from six to ten feet of water above the 
surface, as the trees prove by circles round their trunks, and by 
their boughs dipping and catching the scum of the surf. This 
land, of course, is the finest for meadow, if it were wanted, but as 
the prairies are all meadow, it is of no value. In it stand such 
enormous trees as are seldom seen elsewhere, having trunks like 
towers. Here, too, flourishes, the long and far-famed, ever-green 
mistletoe, planted by birds, or propogated only by seed or berries, 
which are sown or deposited on decayed branches and arms of oak 
and other trees, to beautify the desolation of the winder forest. 
Excessive drinking seems the all-prevading, easily-besetting sin of 
this wild hunting country. Plenty of coal is found on the Wabash 
banks, and there are salt-springs in this state, but sad Yankee 
tricks are played off in the working and making salt from them. 
Grease and fat are used, to make it retain a large portion of 
water, which asists in filling the bushel with deception. Although 
fat is so abundant, yet it is sold at 20 cents, or lOd. per lb. and 



William Faux. 301 

candles at 37^ cents, or 19d. per lb. Milk, too, in a land which 
might flow with milk and honey, is 12^ cents, or Qd. per quart, and 
not a constant supply at that price, nor at any other price, unless a 
cow is kept. Butter, bad, at 25 cents per lb. Beef, six cents per 
lb. by the quarter, which lies on the ground all day at the tavern 
doors, as if brought for dog's meat. Tavern doors are here never 
closed. 

Saving two comfortable plantations, with neat log-houses and 
flourishing orchards, just planted, and which sprout and grow 
like osiers in England, I saw nothing between Vincennes and 
Princeton, a ride of forty miles, but miserable log holes, and a 
mean ville of eight or ten huts or cabins, sad neglected farms, and 
indolent, dirty, sickly, wild-looking inhabitants. Soap is no 
where seen or found in any of the taverns, east or west. Hence 
dirty hands, heads, and faces every where. Here is nothing clean 
but wild beasts and birds, nothing industrious generally, except 
pigs, which are so of necessity. Work or starve is the order of 
the day with them. Nothing happy but squirrels; their life 
seems all play, and that of the hogs all work. I reached Prince- 
ton at sun-set. 

3rd. — I looked round Princeton, a four-year old town and 
county-seat. Here I found and called on my countryman Mr. 
Phillips, who came a visitor from Somersetshire, but fixed on a 
pleasant good farm of 300 acres close to the town, which he bought 
with some improvements, such as a small log-house, and a few 
acres cleared by art and nature, at 20 dollars an acre; "the only 
farm (says he) which I would have in this state of Indiana, but 
which I mean to improve and resell, and then return to England. 
I hate the prairies, all of them; insomuch that I would not have 
any of them of a gift, if I must be compelled to live on them. 
They are all without water, except what is too muddy and dis- 
tant for use. I am much perplexed with labourers; both the Eng- 
lish and natives are good for nothing; they know nothing, and it is 
impossible to get any kind of business well done, either with or 
without money. Money cannot be gained by cultivation. There 
is no certain good market; farm produce may, perhaps, be sold at 
some price, but you cannot get your money of the cheats and scum 
of society who live here. I think that Birkbeck is right in not 
cultivating his land, though wrong and mortified in having writ- 
ten so hastily and prematurely. He and Flower are both sink- 
ing and scattering money, which they will never see more or 
gather again. They cannot even hope to gain or increase their 



302 Early Travels in Indiana. 

capital, but by the contingent increase in the value of their land, 
which is not the best of its kind. With hired labour and a 
market, I should prefer the western country, but here, though 
there is no visible want, yet is there proverty indeed, and but little 
or no friendship. No sharing things in common; idleness poverty, 
and cheating, are the order and temper of the day." 

Mr. Phillips and his wife both looked very shabby, wild and 
dirty. He apologized to me for his dishabille, and said, "Sir, 
if a stranger like you had found me in this plight in England, and I 
could have seen you coming up to my door, I should have hid 
myself. Here, however, no shame is felt, but pleasure, at a 
visit from one of my countrymen, whom I shall be happy to meet 
again." He keeps a housemaid only, his wife doing nearly all 
the drudgery herself, although in England, a lady, unaccustomed 
to soil her hands, or let her feet stray from the parlour carpet. 

I had a long and interesting conversation with a young law- 
yer, the supreme Judge Hart, living in this town, but proscribed 
and suspended for sending a challenge to three agents of his 
estates in Kentucky, who, after, injuring him, caricatured him, 
and then refused to fight. The judge says that English labourers 
know nothing, and are worth nothing in agriculture here; hewing, 
splitting, clearing, grubbing, and ploughing among roots, being a 
business which they do not, and wish not, to understand. It is 
true that they are handy with the spade, and that only. They 
feel too free to work in earnest, or at all, above two or three days in 
a week. Every English body here is above work, except the good 
little farmer, like your friend, John Ingle, and old Phillips, the 
former of whom is likely to kill himself with hard work. He was 
sick twice in consequence, and once nearly unto death. Mrs. 
Ingle and her husband gain and deserve a good name, and feel 
happy and contented on a good farm, which is too near the road. 
They bought a log-house, town lot, pro tempore, at Princeton, at a 
forced sale, for 300 dollars; which they now let for forty dollars a 
year, to Mr. and Miss Fordham, Flower's nephew and niece, who 
were sick of the prairie of Illinois, where health could not attend 
them. Your friend, J. Ingle, lost his horses for three weeks. He 
is expecting more of his English friends to follow him. Mr. Birk- 
beck is disappointed and unhappy; I know him well. He has not 
cultivated nor raised, as yet, any thing from his land, although 
the Harmonites refused to sell him produce, because they thought 
it was his duty to raise it himself, and plainly told him so. He 
will never make a farmer, nor money by farming there. It is 



William Faux. 303 

idle to attempt to import English labourers for the use of your- 
selves exclusively, for Birkbeck and Flower lost all. The same, 
says Mr. Pittiss, late of the Isle of Wight. Women and girls, too, 
are here above assisting in the house, at a price per day or week. 
Wives and daughters must do all themselves. The girl, or white 
servant, if one can now and then be had, at one dollar per week 
and board, is pert and proud as her mistress, and has her parasol at 
six dollars, and bonnet at ten or twelve dollars, and other articles 
in character, which, as dress generally does with all grades, seduces 
them from a virtuous regard of their duties, says this young and 
sprightly lawyer. . People here, though poor and idle, feel above 
thieving, the facility of living without, and the certainty of expo- 
sure and summary punishment, seem to conquer the propensity, 
where it may happen to exist. 

I feel convinced that none but working farmers, like John 
Ingle, ought to come to this western land. Water is bad, white, or 
milky, at Princeton; but beds are good, with the bed-room doors 
next the street, unlocked all night, in order that ingress and egress 
may be free, which is the more necessary, as there are, as is very 
generally the case here, none of those accommodations, either 
within or without doors, which an Englishmen looks upon as quite 
indispensable. 

I met and talked with old Squire M'Intosh, who, although he 
has lived 35 years here, away from his dear native Scotland, still 
regrets it. "I now live," says the squire, "on the grand rapids of 
the big Wabash, a mile above the White River ferry; call and 
spend a night with me on your way to Birkbeck's settlement, 
which is the reverse of every thing which he has written of it, and 
described it to be. The neighbourhood, however, do not think 
he intended to misrepresent and deceive, but that he wrote too 
soon, and without knowing the real state of things, and under- 
standing his subject, or knowing where to find the best land. He 
ought to have examined, in company with one of Uncle Sam's sur- 
veyors; he would not then have entered land in the lump, or mass, 
a great deal of which is not good, nor ever can be, being wet, 
swampy, cold prairies, something like undrained marshes in Eng- 
land. Mr. Birkbeck entered much at the land-office, but sold lit- 
tle, only such half sections as he ought to have bought and kept 
for himself and friends. Mr. Phillips, on whom you have just 
called, say the gentlemen round me, is the slave of his own Eng- 
lish notions and passions; he is, therefore, always hesitating and 
undecided; sometimes, when things run crossly and crooked, he is 



304 Early Travels in Indiana. 

seen and heard heartily execrating this country and people; and, 
at other times, he is well pleased. He is an odd man, surrounded 
with eight fierce dogs, and has a fine, never-failing mill spring, 
running a mile through his farm, which, one year ago, cost 20 
dollars, but is now worth only ten dollars an acre, with all improve- 
ments. This is turning a penny quickly! Despatch is the life 
and soul of business." 

4th.- — The Supreme Judge, Hart, is a gay young man of twen- 
ty-five, full of wit and humorous eloquence, mixing with all com- 
panies at this tavern, where he seems neither above nor below 
any, dressed in an old white beaver hat, coarse threadbare coat 
and trowsers of the same cloth (domestic,) and yellow striped 
waistcoat, with his coat out at the elbows ; yet very cleanly in his 
person, and refined in his language. What can be the inducement 
for a young man, like him, equal to all things, to live thus, and 
here? 

Judge Hart deems merchandizing to be the most profitable 
pursuit in the west, and the liberal professions the last and 
worst. 

Mr. Nicholls, a cunning Caledonian, says, that farming, exceptr 
near the rivers, cannot answer; but raising and feeding cattle 
and pigs may. Store keeping is here evidently the best of all 
employments, if cents and dollars enter into the estimate. 
Money spent in improving land is seldom more than returned with 
interest, and often lost by reselling or selling out, especially if 
the labour is not all done by the farmer; and if it is done by his own 
instead of hired hands, he is not more than fairly paid for his time 
and labour, which are both money. It is therefore best for the mere 
capitalist to buy rather than make all the improvements, as he 
certainly buys them much cheaper than he can create them. He 
should confine himself to the east. 

Mr. Phillips, the English gentleman on whom I called yester- 
day, returned my call this evening. He seems a mass of con- 
tradiction, and states that this western country is the best he 
knows, but that it costs more to live in it than in London; that 
it is idle for a farmer to raise more produce than he can use him- 
self; but that there are farmers making money as fast as they can 
count it, by raising large quantities of farm produce in this and 
the neighbouring state of Illinois; that others might do the 
same; that there is now a market better than in the east, and that 
in five or seven years the market at New Orleans down the river 
will be good and great; yet that the parties to whom you must sell 



William Faux. 305 

are all d d rogues. Feeding beef and pork he deems a good 

trade, especially when the land shall come to be clovered and sown 
with other grass seeds. He thinks there is little or no good beef 
in the wilderness, because it is raised and fed on natural wild 
vegetables, many of which are ill-flavoured and poisonous. 
Beasts often die suddenly in the fall of the year in consequence 
of being confined to such food. The natural white clover, in the 
month of June, salivates cattle and horses, which, however, still 
devour it greedily, and seem to thrive thereon. 

Our party this evening were all agreed in this particular; 
that the western country is only fit for the little hard-working 
farmer with a small capital. He must live, and better than he 
could elsewhere, on and from the productions of his own hands 
and lands. He can retail his produce, and be gardener and farmer 
both; vegetables every where being scarce and dear, because peo- 
ple are too idle to raise them. Wholesale farmers from England 
expecting to cultivate from 300 to 1,000 acres, and sell the farm 
produce in lumps, will come here only to be disappointed. Small 
retailing farmers only are wanted here. Mr. Phillips deems that 
Birkbeck, Flower, and Mr. Dunlop of London, who have bought 
so many thousands of acres, and the latter of whom pays treble 
tax as a non-resident, will greatly benefit at some future time by 
capital so employed, although they may never cultivate an acre, 
or touch the land. The capital seems to be idle and sleeps, but 
it will one day, he thinks, awake, and find itself gigantically 
augmented. Mr. Phillips, whose opinion is not respected here, 
was never a farmer until he came here. His improvements do 
honour to his intuition. 

General Evans, who this day formed one of our circle, is in 
part the owner of this town of Princeton, and of Evansville, which 
bears his name. He is a pleasant, rustic, middle-aged man, living 
here in a little log-house, together with his lady and daughter, 
who, having no servant, do all the work of their establishment 
themselves. Servants are not to be had. The same may be said 
of all the rest of the inhabitants. Envy and invidious compar- 
isons have, therefore, no place at Princeton. 

General Boon, during the last war, (says the General) lost two 
sons killed ; and his favourite daughter and her friend were stolen 
by the Indians, who marched the fair captives two days without 
resting, and intended marrying them, but were overtaken by the 
colonel and his son, and a lover of the lady. The young couple, 
previous to this event, were on the point of marriage, and are now 

T— 20 



306 Early Travels in Indiana. 

living as husband and wife in Kentucky. The captives cunningly 
indented the ground all the way from the Colonel's house with 
their high-heeled shoes, so that they might be tracked; and 
when they saw their brave deliverers coming up full speed, they 
fell flat on the earth, while the firing of rifles commenced on the 
Indians, who tried in vain to kill their fair prisoners by throwing 
their knives and tomahawks at them ; but the pursuers triumphed, 
and all were recovered and restored unhurt. General Boon now 
lives in solitude 600 miles up the remote Missouri. He is 80 
years old, very active, very poor, a hunter and a recluse by choice, 
and trains up his sons in the same path, feeling more happiness 
than he possibly could in society, where he would have lived 
and died, if he had willed it, full of scars, and honours, and days. 
His parents were always poor; his disposition is kind and hos- 
pitable; his manners simple and gentle; preferring to live meanly 
and rudely as a hardy hunter and squatter, wanting nothing 
but what nature gives him, and his own hands get him. He 
sleeps on a bear-skin, and clothes himself in dressed deer-skin, 
and though shy, is kind to intruding strangers. The western coun- 
try is indebted to him, as he leads the way into the best spots of the 
wilderness. He was the first white man in Old Kentucky, and the 
wide, wild west is full of his licks. A flourishing settlement always 
rises wherever he has once squatted, and whenever any settlers 
begin to approach near his location, he quits it for ever, and moves 
on further west; and the place, which he thus abandons, is called 
Boon's Lick. He never wants much land; only a spot sufficient 
for the supply of his household. 

I saw a man this day with his face sadly disfigured. He 
had lost his nose, bitten off close down to its root, in a fight with a 
nose-loving neighbour. 

Judge Hart deems it foolish policy in English-men wishing to 
form English settlements and neighbourhoods^ and thereby to 
perpetuate English distinctions and prejudices, so offensive to 
their adopted country, and so unprofitable to themselves. Noth- 
ing is good with them but what is English, whereas they should 
rather endeavor to forget the name, which ever kindles unfriendly 
feelings. 

I saw a fine fat buck, fat as a Lincolnshire wether sheep, and 
weighing, when dressed and with the head off, 140 lbs. It sold for 
two dollars, less than three farthings per pound. 

Politeness, in manner and address, is more necessary here than 
in Bond-street, for here you invariably receive it, and to give it in 



William Faux. 307 

return is justly due. The titles, "Sir" and "Madam," (not Ma'am) 
are pleasant to and expected by all; for however mean may be the 
exterior of a citizen of this free, equal country, there is a spirit and 
an intelligence, and often sprightliness about him, which decorate 
any thing and make even rags respectable. 

Two months ago the High Sheriff of Chilicothe, Ohio, went to 
jail for want of bail. He had siezed, personally, on the funds of 
the United States' branch bank. This was hard ! 

Birkbeck, (say my companions) complained at first of our 
slovenly state of things, and the indolence of farmers and labour- 
ers, and boasted of what might be done, and what he should do, 
but has, at the end of four years, done nothing but talk of doing. 
The facility of a living for all, and the consequent difficulty of 
procuring labour, even for money, together with the sickly, relax- 
ing warmth of the climate, are obstacles which overwhelm all 
industry. The principal care is how to live easy. Time, and not 
man, effectually clears and improves land in this country. Time 
here changes his character, and preserves and replenishes, while 
man destroys and wears out what he can. 

The reason (says Judge Hart) why Scotchmen always get 
money, in this and all other lands to which they wander, is, because 
they leave no means untried. 

The season, called the Indian summer, which here commences 
in October, by a dark blue hazy atmosphere, is caused by mil- 
lions of acres, for thousands of miles round, being in a wide- 
spreading, flaming, blazing, smoking fire, rising up through wood 
and prairie, hill and dale, to the tops of low shrubs and high trees, 
which are kindled by the coarse, thick, long, prairie grass, and dy- 
ing leaves, at every point of the compass, and far beyond the 
foot of civilization, darkening the air, heavens and earth, over the 
whole extent of the northern and part of the southern continent, 
from the Atlantic to the Pacific, and in neighbourhoods con- 
tiguous to the all-devouring conflagration, filling the whole 
horizon with yellow, palpable, tangible smoke, ashes, and vapour, 
which affect the eyes of man and beast, and obscure the sun, 
moon, and stars, for many days, or until the winter rains descent 
to quench the fire and purge the thick ropy air, which is seen, 
tasted, handled, and felt. 

So much for an Indian summer, which partakes of the vulgar 
idea of the infernal. Why called Indian? Because these fires 
seem to have originated with the native tribes, and are now per- 
petuated by the White Hunters, who by these means start, 



308 Early Travels in Indiana. 

disturb, and pen up the game, and destroy the dens of both man 
and beast, and all this with impunity. 

To-morrow, through floods and flames, I shall endeavour to 
make good my desperate way to the retreat of my good friend, 
John Ingle, in Indiana. 

Qth. — At nine, a. m. I left Princeton on a horse carrying 
double, me and my guide, through the wilderness, to my friend 
John Ingle's, who had sent the said horse and boy twenty-five 
miles for my accommodation. The little town just quitted, and at 
which I paid the extravagant price of two dollars a day for board, 
has nineteen streets, and about one hundred and five houses, one 
prison, and one meeting-house, or church, all of wood; one supreme 
judge, and four other judges; and in the unpeopled county are 
another quorum of judges, and three generals. It is called Prince- 
ton, in honour of its living founder, Judge Prince. 

We rode all day through thick smoke and fire, which sometimes 
met in pillar-like arches across the road, and compelled us to wait 
awhile, or turn aside. We passed only one comfortable abode, 
and three or four filthy one-room log-holes, surrounded by small 
patches, cleared samples of the bulk, which seems good land. I 
called at one of the three, a tavern, to beg for bread, but got 
none; only some whiskey. I saw a deer-lick, at which I dis- 
mounted and took a lick. The earth thus licked and excavated by 
many tongues, is of the colour of fuller's earth, not ill-flavoured, but 
a little salt and saponaceous, always attractive to the beasts of the 
forest. 

At five o'clock, p. m., I reached the welcome abode of my 
Huntingdonshire friends, Mr. and Mrs. John Ingle, who, together 
with their English maid-servant, Rebecca, and six children, rushed 
out to embrace and welcome their old friend, school-fellow, 
neighbour, and fellow-countryman, and great was the joy of our 
meeting. 

Here I found good sweet bread, like the English, and hot 
corn-cake, and supped, on what I supposed fine pork steaks. 
"This meat (said I to Mr. Ingle) is most delicious." "Well 
then, you like it, do you?" "I do indeed." "What do you think 
it is?" "Why, pork to be sure." "Well, we thought we would 
not tell you until after supper, lest you should fancy it was not 
good and refuse to eat Bear." "Oh," said I, "if this be bear, give 
me bear for ever." 

My friend's log-house, as a first, is one of the best I have 
seen, having one large room and a chamber over it, to which you 



William Faux. 309 

climb by a ladder. It has, at present, no windows, but when the 
doors are shut the crevices between the rough logs admit light and 
air enough, above and below. It is five yards square and twenty 
feet high. At a little distance stand a stable for two horses, a corn 
crib, a pig-stye, and a store; for storekeeping is his intention, and 
it is a good one. Two beds in the room below, and one above, 
lodge us in the following manner; myself and Mr. Ingle in one 
bed; in the second, by our side, sleep six fine but dirty children; 
and in the chamber, Mrs. Ingle and a valuable English maid. 
Thus on my account, husband and wife were divided. It is not 
unusual for a male and female to sleep in the same room uncur- 
tained, holding conversation while in bed. In a yard adjoining the 
house are three sows and pigs half starved, and several cows, calves, 
and horses, very poor, having no grass, no pasture, but with bells 
about their necks, eternally ringing. Shame, or rather what is called 
false shame, or delicacy, does not exist here. Males dress and 
undress before the females, and nothing is thought of it. Here is no 
servant. The maid is equal to the master. No boy, or man-servant. 
No water, but at half a mile distant. Mr. Ingle does all the jobs, and 
more than half the hewing, splitting, and ploughing. He is all econ- 
omy, all dirty-handed industry. No wood is cut in readiness for 
morning fires. He and the axe procure it, and provender for the poor 
hungry cattle, pigs, and horses. His time is continually occupied, 
and the young boys just breeched are made useful in every pos- 
sible way. 

Nothing is English here but friendship and good-will. Ameri- 
can labourers here, as usual, are very villainous; one, a preacher, 
took a piece of land to clear for my friend, and received, before he 
began, forty dollars on account, but refused to perform his con- 
tract. To sue him was idle. My friend, in the presence of the 
fellow's son, called him a right reverend rascal and thief. "Call 
him so again," said the son, doubling his fist ready to strike. 
My friend repeated it, and taking up an axe, said. "Now strike, 
but if you do, as I was never yet afraid of a man, I'll chop you into 
rails." Money rarely procures its value in labour. He deems that 
as much money is to be made from 200 acres of land here, as in 
England, while here the land is made your own. To do that in 
England, is the top of a farmer's ambition. Here, a man can 
make all that he cultivates his own. He says that he shall live 
and gain money this first year, though only sixteen acres are in 
cultivation. Mrs. Ingle, maid, and children, suffered much in 
crossing the sea and mountains. They slept on the floor, in a hole, 



310 Early Travels in Indiana. 

with waggoners, and other male blackguards, where the stench, 
both by sea and land, was little short of pestilential. 

Sunday, 7th. — More than half last night, Mr. and Mrs. Ingle, 
and maid, were out in the woods extinguishing the wide spreading 
fires, which threatened to consume their fences, houses, and corn- 
fields. The whole horizon was brilliantly illuminated. These 
fires, if not arrested, or watched, sweep away houses, stacks of 
corn and hay, and every thing within reach. So fared Mr. Grant, 
late of Chatteris, who is now dead. The sound of the axe, split- 
ting fire-wood, salutes the ear every morning, instead of the birds' 
song. I was smoked to death all night; our friends rested all day 
absent from meeting, but still the knees of all present were bent to 
the God of their good fathers. Sunday passes unnoticed in the 
English prairie, except by hunting and cricket matches. 

The bears, during the summer, are lean and hungry, and seize 
the hogs and eat them alive. It is no uncommon thing to see 
hogs escape home with the loss of a pound or two of living flesh. 
These creatures sleep all the winter quite fat. Rattle-snakes 
abound here. Mr. Ingle killed four or five beautiful snakes of this 
species this summer, and one or two vipers. 

8th. — I accompanied J. Ingle, and water-cart, to the spring, 
half a mile off, on the farm of Major Hooker, a hunter, who sold us 
half a fat buck at three cents a pound; thus killing and selling 
from four to six per week, besides turkeys, pheasants, rabbits, 
racoons, squirrels, and bears. This half buck, weighing 70 pounds, 
Mr. Indie carried home on a shoulder-stick. The major's, and 
other families here, raise cotton for domestic uses, which, in warm 
and dry seasons, flourishes well. What I saw in pods, and that 
which the women were spinning, seemed of excellent quality. The 
seed of this plant was, in slave states, thought nutritious enough, 
when boiled, for the support of negroes; but as many died in using 
it, it was abandoned 

The China leaf, or tea-plant, has been propagated at 
Princeton, in Mr. Devan's garden, and at Harmony, from seed 
brought from China. It is said to grow luxuriantly, yielding more 
leaf than is used, and making a useful decoction, similar in flavour, 
though not so pleasant, as that procured from the imported plant. 
It is manufactured by sweating it in an oven, and when taken out, 
it cools and curls up, and becomes fit for use. The indigo also is a 
little cultivated. The woods abound with medical herbs. The 
Ching Sang and Ipecacuanha are found, for emetics. The vine is 
very luxuriant, and cultivated at Harmony with success; while 



William Faux. 311 

the trees are full of gum. The Dogwood Bark is also found as 
efficient as the Peruvian, and the Sassafras tea is in general use 
for two or three months. 

Great idleness prevails in the Illinois; little or no produce is yet 
raised. G. Flower had contracted with the American hunters, to 
raise and cultivate 500 acres of corn and grain; he finding land and 
seed, and they all the labour of raising and getting it fit for market, 
at nine dollars an acre. This bargain became void. 

9th. — A doctor, of little or no skill, lives twelve miles distant, 
and this little settlement of Sandersville has no school for the chil- 
dren, who remain at home pestering their parents, and retrograd- 
ing into barbarism. Mrs. Ingle dreads their mixing and associat- 
ing with the race of children who surround them. A schoolmaster 
here would be welcomed with a salary of from 400 to 500 dollars a 
year, although not one of the first grade, but he must be content 
to live in a wilderness. 

I feel, every day, more and more convinced that the western 
country is suited only to working families, like those of J. Ingle; 
where Mrs. Ingle, (delicately bred) and all turn out to work, as 
today, and the other night to put out the approaching fires. 

The bears and wolves have devoured several sows while far- 
rowing; they are then weak and defenceless, and therefore an easy 
prey. Never did I behold such ghostly pigs as here. Soap, 
candles, sugar, cotton, leather, and woolen clothes, of a good qual- 
ity, are here all made from the land, but not without the most 
formidable, unremitting industry on the part of the females. 
Filth and rags, however, are often preferred. Imperious neces- 
sity alone commands extraordinary exertion. Yesterday, a set- 
tler passed our door with a bushel of corn-meal on his back, for 
which he had travelled twenty miles, on foot, to the nearest horse- 
mill, and carried it ten miles, paying 75 cents for it. This said 
corn is invaluable to both man and beast; black and white men 
both profess to think they should starve on wheat meal without 
corn. 

The everlasting sound of falling trees, which, being under- 
mined by the fires, are falling around almost every hour, night 
and day, produces a sound loud and jarring as the discharge of 
ordnance, and is a relief to the dreary silence of these wilds, only 
broken by the axe, the gun, or the howlings of wild beasts. 

Retrograding and barbarizing is an easy process. Far from the 
laws and restraints of society, and having no servants to do that for 
us which was once daily done, we become too idle in time to do 



312 Eaely Travels in Indiana. 

any thing, but that which nature and necessity require; pride and 
all stimuli forsake us, for we find ourselves surrounded only by 
men of similar manners; hence, the face is seldom shaved, or 
washed, or the linen changed except on washing-days. The 
shoes are cleaned, perhaps, never; for if, indeed, a servant, from 
England, is kept, he, or she, is on a happy equality, rising up last 
and lying down first, and eating freely at the same time and table. 
None here permit themselves to have a master, but negroes. 

A voyage in the stinking steerage of a ship, and then a journey 
over the mountains in waggons, sometimes camping out all 
night, or sleeping, like pigs, as did Mrs. Ingle and six children 
and maid, on the dirty floor of a bar-room, amongst blackguards, 
and then floating in a little stinking ark, full of unclean things, will 
prepare the mind and body for barbarizing in a little log-hole, like 
that in which I dined yesterday, belonging to Mr. Ferrel, who, with 
his family, some adults, male and female, in all ten souls, sleep 
in one room, fifteen feet by ten, only half floored, and in three 
beds, standing on a dirt floor. The table, or thing so called, is 
formed by two blocks and a broad board laid on them, and cov- 
ered with a cloth, and seats or forms, in like manner, on each 
side of the table, which is only knee-high. Proper chairs and 
tables, they have none. When it rains, boards are laid over the 
chimney top, (which I can reach with my hand) to prevent the 
rain putting the fires out. This good-natured man has thus set- 
tled and removed, eight times, from one degree of barbarism to 
another. The victuals are served up in a hand-bason; and thus 
one room serves for parlour, kitchen, hall, bed-room, and pantry. 
The settlers, too, here, are without implements, but such as they 
can patch and form together of themselves; they are too distant 
and expensive to buy. What they have must cost nothing, like 
their houses, which are raised in a day by the neighbours all 
meeting together, so going in turn to serve each other, as we did 
yesterday. 

10th. — Mr. Peck, late of Chatteris, introduced himself to me 
this day. Born and bred a labourer, he at length became a 
little farmer, on the dearest land in Chatteris, from which he 
brought a wife, four daughters, one son, a man, and 500?.; all, the 
perfection of British industry. Feeling themselves likely to lose 
all, they came here to two quarter sections, costing 145L to be 
paid, in three years, by instalments; so leaving 3551. for stock, 
seed corn, and housekeeping, until they shall have cleared twenty 
acres, and raised produce. He begged I would come and dine with 



William Faux. 313 

him, so that I might hear particulars of his former state, present 
condition and prospects, and be able to tell his old neighbours of 
his comforts and satisfaction. "Now," says he, "I feel I can live, 
and live well, by working, and without fretting and working, seven- 
teen, out of the twenty-four hours, all the year round, as I used to 
do at Chatteris. And what is sweeter than all, I feel I am now 
the owner of 300 acres of land, all paid for, and free from all poor- 
rates, parsons, and tax-gathers, and that I shall be able to give 
and leave each of my children, 100 acres of good land to work upon, 
instead of the highway, or Chatteris work-house. No fear of their 
committees now, nor of Ely jail." 

It was pleasant to witness the boasting satisfaction of this 
good, honest fellow, and his family of young Pecks. 

I saw an old, dirty, stinking Irishman, very well to do, settled 
on a quarter section here, but who says, were it not for his family, 
he could do better in Ireland; and therefore, for the sake of his 
family, the is content to live a little longer, and die here. They will 
be better off. He came to breakfast with us, and borrowed a 
razor to shave his beard, for once, instead of clipping it off. 

Meeting Mr. Hornbrook, the first settler here, I said to him, 
"How is it, that you, and others, can do with such houses here, 
when you had such comfortable ones in England." "Oh," said 
he, "after our voyage and journey, we are glad to get into any 
hole, although we know, that in England, they wouid think them 
not good enough for stables.' ' 

On the eve of this day, a heavy battering rain came, and put 
out the fires, and cleared the air, and poured water down upon our 
beds. Great lumps of the clay, or daubing, stuffed between the 
logs, also kept falling on our heads, and into our beds, while it 
rained. We needed an umbrella. 

Mrs. Ingle, a woman of superior sense and feeling, states that 
the prospect of seeing herself, husband, and children dependent 
on grandfathers and grandmothers, and uncles and aunts, and 
thereby lessening the resources of two distinct and worthy families, 
impelled them to emigrate. It ceased almost to be matter of 
choice. Still, love of country, former friends and comforts, from 
which they tore themselves, is inextinguishable, and frequently a 
source of painful thought. Such a good, proud feeling is very hon- 
ourable, for with fair play in England, it would have kept them 
there, and increased rather than diminished the resources of grand- 
fathers, &c. 

11th.— By a conversation with old Ferrel, I find he began, 



314 Early Travels in Indiana. 

thirty years ago, with nothing but his own hands. Striking each 
hand, he said, "This is all I had to begin with;" and it seems, that 
excepting his children, he has little more now, merely a quarter 
section just entered, and a log raised on it. All seem very improvi- 
dent and extravagant, the family sometimes eating four or five 
pounds of butter a day, the produce of all their cows. Thus, 
with the corn-cake and bacon, a part of the year, (for they are 
almost always destitute for fresh meat, tea and sugar) is their 
table supplied. 

Ferrel is a man of experience and discernment, and states that 
he would not fetch corn from Princeton, twenty miles off, of a 
gift, if he could grow it, nor would he carry it to the Ohio for sale, 
because it would not pay carriage and expenses. When (if ever) 
they shall have surplus produce, he will give it to pigs and cattle, 
which will walk to market. He always, and every where, had a 
market at the door, and he always expects it, because of the 
number of idle people who do not, or cannot raise produce. He 
says, that as Mr. Ingle was no judge of the quality of land here, he 
has chosen that which is not lasting, namely black oak land. It is 
kind and useful, but after three crops, he will see and believe, 
though he does not now, that his old American neighbours know 
and have got the best land. He thinks that a slave state, with 
negroes, well chosen, is the best for capitalists, who need not, or 
cannot work themselves. He still thinks that hiring when you 
can, is a free state in the west, may sometimes pay, but as nearly 
all feel themselves masters instead of labourers, it is impossible to 
be regularly supplied with hands. Kindness, equality, persuasion, 
and good pay will sometimes effect it. He says, that a man is 
seldom more than paid for improvements. 

Supped with a Mr. Maidlow, a most intelligent and respect- 
able Hampshire farmer, a neighbour of Cobbett's, who left Eng- 
land and his large farm, at about 16s. an acre, because, from a fair 
trial, he found it impossible to farm without losing money, although 
his wheat-land averaged six quarters an acre, and his landlord, — 
Jervis, Esq., had lowered the rent 20 per cent. He brought a 
considerable capital and English habits and feelings, the best in 
the world, into the neatest and cleanest log-cabin that I have seen, 
and is building already a second, larger and better, for the preser- 
vation of all that is comfortable and respectable in the English 
character, being determined that neither himself nor family shall 
barbarize. This is impossible: all barbarize here. Hehas bought 
six quarter sections, and hopes not to do more than keep his prop- 



William Faux. 315 

erty, get land for his family, and live and die comfortably. Riches 
he thinks out of the question, and it is his wish that the settle- 
ment should feel and act towards each other as one family; the 
reverse of Illinois, in which he intended to settle, and to which he 
was attracted by the books of Mr. Birkbeck, who refused him 
land, except at an advanced price, although he had 30,000 acres 
retained for people in England, who never came; while those who 
applied, many and respectable practical farmers, were denied. 

The settlers here being all out of wheat-flour and Indian corn- 
meal, Mr. Ingle, self, a boy, and two children began, at noon, to 
gather and shell ears of corn for grinding into meal, and finished 
two bushels by night, ready for the mill, ten miles off, next day; 
when a boy on a horse started with it early, expecting to return the 
following Sunday morning, if not lost in the woods. 

12th. — Visited Mr. Potts's cabin and farm, 400 acres of good 
land, on which he lives, without a woman, but has a good man from 
Stockport in Cheshire, where they both came from, and thus they 
alone manage both the house and the field. They have dug a well, 
many feet through the solid rock, without finding water. I saw 
here an experiment which I little expected to see; the eighth of an 
acre of upland rice; three quarts were sown on it in May, in drills, 
eighteen inches asunder, and the increase is three bushels. The 
straw is like barley straw, and the stubble rank and stout, and not 
to be known from oat stubble, on rich fen land, only brighter. 

Saw a poor Englishman, who some time since broke his leg, 
which from want of skill in the doctor, was not properly set; he is 
therefore now a cripple for life. This is an evil to which all are 
exposed. Many are now dying at Evansville of a bilious disorder; 
the doctor employed has lost nearly all who applied. 

River banks are here always unhealthy. A family from Lin- 
colnshire, attracted by fine land, on one of the prairie creeks, where 
no American would live on any terms, all fell sick, one died, and 
the farmer and his wife both lay unable to help themselves, or 
get help, except from one of their little boys, who escaped the 
contagion. Birkbeck strongly remonstrated with them against 
settling there. 

The farmers (Americans) indebted to the store-keepers, are 
now forced to sell all their corn at one dollar a barrel, and buy it 
again for their spring and summer use at five dollars, a fine profit 
for the monied merchant. Forty bushels per acre of corn pays bet- 
ter (says the old farmer) than wheat, with only twenty to twenty- 



316 Early Travels in Indiana. 

five. The land here, though good, is not first rate, or of the most 
durable quality. 

A pigeon roost is a singular sight in thinly settled states, partic- 
ularly in Tennessee in the fall of the year, when the roost extends 
over either a portion of woodland or barrens, from four to six 
miles in circumference. The screaming noise they make when thus 
roosting is heard at a distance of six miles; and when the beech- 
nuts are ripe, they fly 200 miles to dinner, in immense flocks, hid- 
ing the sun and darkening the air like a thick passing cloud. They 
thus travel 400 miles daily. They roost on the high forest trees, 
which they cover in the same manner as bees in swarms cover a 
bush, being piled one on the other, from the lowest to the top- 
most boughs, which so laden, are seen continually bending and 
falling with their crashing weight, and presenting a scene of con- 
fusion and destruction, too strange to describe, and too dangerous 
to be approached by either man or beast. While the living birds 
are gone to their distant dinner, it is common for man and animals 
to gather up or devour the dead, then found in cartloads. When 
the roost is among the saplings, on which the pigeons alight with- 
out breaking them down, only bending them to the ground, the 
self -slaughter is not so great; and at night, men, with lanterns 
and poles, approach and beat them to death without much per- 
sonal danger. But the grand mode of taking them is by setting 
fire to the high dead grass, leaves, and shrubs underneath, in a 
wide blazing circle, fired at different parts, at the same time, so as 
soon to meet. Then down rush the pigeons in immense numbers, 
and indescribable confusion, to be roasted alive, and gathered up 
dead next day from heaps two feet deep. 

13th. — Major Hooker frequently shoots, and then cooks and 
eats the huge wild cats, while Mr. Birkbeck and his family eat the 
rattle-snake, the flesh of which, says Mr. Ingle, is fine, sweet, and 
white, as an eel. Pigs also eat them voraciously. Armstrong, a 
hunting farmer, this day shot four deer, while he is too idle to 
inclose his cornfield, which is devoured by cattle and horses, save 
when a boy watches it to keep them off. This man and family 
then, though with plenty of land, must buy corn, and depend upon 
wild meat for the support of his idle family, who have either a 
feast or a famine. They keep several cows, but as calves are con- 
stantly with them (having no separate inclosure) and as the family 
eat 5 lbs. of butter a day, for three days in the week, which con- 
sumes all the dairy at once, they go without during the remainder 



William Faux. 317 

of the week. They never sell any, though it is 25 cents per pound. 
No fear of surplus produce from such farmers. 

The hope, it seemed, of preserving and increasing his prop- 
erty, was amongst Mr. Birkbeck's ruling motives for emigration. 
To those to whom he is known, he is very hearty and sociable. 
To J. Ingle he said, "There are so many thousand dollars in that 
drawer; they are of no use to me: go, and take what you like." 
He is very careless and improvident, like the rest of his literary 
fraternity, and unconscious of what his powerful pen and high 
reputation were effecting by exciting a strong feeling in favour 
of emigration, at a moment when the people of England were 
despairing; so strong, indeed, that what he did and wrote, burst 
in upon them like a discovery. Unconscious of all this, he left 
undone all which he ought in common policy to have done. The 
weakest head could see that after purchasing land and alluring set- 
tlers, he ought to have guarded against a famine by providing for 
their accommodation, building a few log-houses, store-houses, and 
a tavern, and cultivating corn, so that the numerous callers in this 
inhospitable waste might have found food, and a shelter, and a 
person to shew the land, which he had to resell. Whereas a stable, 
a covered waggon, and prairie-grass, formed their only shelter and 
bed; and not having food sufficient for himself, there was little or 
none for strangers, and no person to shew the land, nor did he know 
himself where it lay. He idly thought that if they wished land 
they would find it themselves; and being in expectation of many 
such families from England, he thought he had no land to spare, 
so that the real practical farmers of both worlds who called, turned 
away disgusted to other and better neighbourhoods, the Kaskasky, 
and Missouri, and Red River, where more important settlements 
are rising. He therefore, as the rich families did not come, has no 
real farmers in his settlement, and hoped J. Ingle, being one, would 
come and make one solitary farmer amongst them. Trusting too, 
to his own judgment, he has settled down«on and entered indis- 
criminately good and bad land, much of which will never be worth 
any thing, being wet, marshy, spongy, on a stratum of unporous 
clay, over which pestilential fogs rise and hang continually. A 
United States' surveyor would, for a few dollars, have prevented 
such a choice. Common policy and prudence, too, ought to have 
induced him to reduce his fine farming theory into practice, other- 
wise it seemed as if intended merely to deceive others. Even if he 
should, (as he now says) lose by it, or could buy produce cheaper 
than he could raise it, he still ought not so to buy it, but set an 



318 Early Travels in Indiana. 

example of farming. For of what use is land, if it is not worth 
cultivating? 

As a proof of his improvident conduct, and bad management, 
his thirteen horses were all miserably poor and unfit for use, 
and when any were wanted, he would say to a hunter, "Here's 
five dollars for you, if you find and drive up the horses;" for he had 
no inclosure. The man knew where they were, and soon found 
them and received the fee; none then were fit for use. "Oh! don't 
tease me about horses." 

This evening, J. Ingle sat down by the fire, and cleaned the 
shoes of all the family, which he does every week. 

Sunday, 14th. — Called on a Caledonian Yankee farmer, busy 
at work in his garden, who said he had no Sunday in his week, 
but would buy one if he could. He is a quarter-section man, 
without wife or child, shoes or hose. 

After a meeting of 16 persons of this little settlement, in the 
log-house of my friend, who read a sermon and prayed for all 
present, I visited Mr. Hornbrook's, a respectable English family 
from Devonshire, on a good quantity of land, living in two or 
three log-cabins. 

Amongst the inducements of the Flower family to emigratte 
may be reckoned the probability of their wasting all their proper,y 
by farming their own estate, about 500 or 600 acres at Marsden. 
It was badly farmed, and the Merino trade failed, which was Mr. 
Flower's hobby-horse; and seeing his favourite son was determined 
to live in America, emigration now ceased to be a matter of choice. 
They intended to settle in the east. G. Flower, who brought a 
letter from the celebrated Marquis de la Fayette to Mr. Jeffer- 
son, who he visited, bought an estate of 500 acres at 10 dollars an 
acre, near Jefferson's, where they were to have lived; but, as Mr. 
Birkbeck could not approve it, on account of slavery, it was 
abandoned. # 

15th. — The English settlement in Indiana, up to this time, con- 
tains 12,800 acres entered, and in possession of actual settlers, 53 
families having capital to the amount of 80,000 dollars. 



William Faux. 319 

Expenses of clearing and inclosing an acre of land, ready for plant- 
ing, Qj dollars; ditto of planting, with four ploughings and four 
hoeings, and harvesting, and stacking for market, at your own 
door, six dollars an acre; so making the first year, an acre cost . . . $12 . 50 

Second year, wheat 1^ bushel seed $1 . 50 

Ploughing once, 75 cents; clearing dead timber, break- 
ing up stumps, and hoeing sprouts, one dollar and 
50 cents 2.25 

Reaping l| bushel an acre, or in cash 1 . 00 

Carting, threshing, etc 3 . 50 

$8.25 

Cost of one acre in two years $20 . 75 

Produce of an acre of Indian corn, 35 bushels, at 50 cents the first 

year 17 . 50 

Ditto, wheat, 25 bushels, at 75 cents the second year 18 . 75 

Value of the acre, in two years $36 . 25 

Deduct cost 20.75 

Profit $15 . 50 

In the next two years, the two acres will cost less b} r 8 dollars 75 
cents, which, added to 15 dollars 50 cents, makes the net profit 
on two acres 24 dollars 25 cents, besides the increased value of the 
land. 

The proper expenses of a farmer, arriving with a capital of 
2,000 .dollars, that is to say, his necessary expenses in estab- 
lishing himself and family the first year: 

First year — Entry of half section, or 320 acres of land $160.00 

House and stable, 80 dollars; smoke house, pigstye and hen house, 

40 dollars 120.00 

Two horses, good, 160 dollars; two ploughs and harness, 40 dollars. 200 . 00 
Four axes, four hoes, 16 dollars; waggon, 100 dollars; harrows, 12 

dollars 128 00 

Spades, shovels, six dollars; two cows, 36 dollars; four sows in pig, 

20 dollars.. 62.00 

Corn crib and barn 60 . 00 

Clearing 20 acres of land first year, foot and under, and fenced well 130 . 00 

Ploughing, planting, hoeing and turning 130.00 

$990.00 
Twelve month's maintenance of family 250 . 00 



$1,240.00 



So leaving him at harvest 800 dollars of his 2,000 dollars for the 
uses of the coming year; but still, this money will not be wanted, as 



320 Early Travels in Indiana. 

the farm will now maintain itself and family; the money then 
should be at use. 

"The foregoing statements," says Mr. Ingle, "I will swear are 
correct, and they are in part reduced to practice this year." I 
think, however, that the money should be at command for his own 
use, as twenty acres more clearing, &c. unless he does, most of it 
himself, (which he ought to do) wants 260 dollars the second year. 
All the labour, however, is to be done the first year by hired hands, 
if they can be found, and, if possible, to be done at a price per 
acre, not by the day. 

Mr. Ingle insists on it that none of the old funds will be wanted 
the second year, but that the farm will maintain itself and family; 
as the pigs will supply plenty of bacon to eat and some to sell, 
besides the surplus of the first crop of corn, which will supply some 
money; but the second year, the work upon the farm must be 
principally done by himself and family. 

He thinks that no more land should be under cultivation and 
fence, (say about forty or fifty, and thirty acres of grass) than the 
farmer can manage without hiring, which, at present, it is impos- 
sible to do with any thing like comfortable benefit and English 
regularity. He will not be so grasping as in England. A little will 
satisfy him; he is not so disposed to disquiet himself in vain. 
The habits and examples of the country will at length be impercep- 
tibly followed. 

New settlers in this state, men, women, and children, seem all 
exposed to an eruption, ten times worse than the itch, inasmuch 
as it itches more, runs all over the body, crusting and festering the 
hands and other parts, and is not to be cured by the common 
treatment for the itch, which has been tried without effect, and one 
instance has been known, where the sulphur and grease killed the 
patient by obstructing perspiration, and driving in the eruption. 
The doctors know of no remedy, and suffer it to take its tedious 
course. It comes in the spring and fall, but not to the same per- 
son, it is hoped, more than once. It is attributed to the air, soil, 
and climate. Mr. Ingle's family are all suffering severely under it. 
Although the climate seems finer here than in the east, more humid 
and temperate, yet the bite of every insect and reptile, however 
insignificant, is highly poisonous; an evil not to be remedied at 
present. New comers and fresh flesh suffer most, and sometimes 
much inflammation is caused; but when the land becomes more 
cleared, it is hoped this scourge will be less afflictive. 

Fine yeast: Take a small handful, or a good nip of hops, and 



William Faux. 321 

boil them ten minutes, in one quart of water, then strain away the 
hops, and pour the liquor into a quantity of flour, sufficient to 
give the consistency of batter well beaten; a tea-cup full, or some- 
thing less than the usual quantity of brewer's yeast, is sufficient for 
a half-stone loaf; two spoonfuls of brewer's yeast to work the first 
making; then, even after, a little of the last made; the yeast to be 
put to it while milk-warm, and kept so until it ferments, which it 
generally does in summer very soon, and in winter in a clay, but 
it must not be used until it does ferment. In winter it keeps one 
month, in summer (America) one week, two in England, and is a 
fine saving and a great convenience. 

16th. — A poor emigrant farmer from Devonshire, called 
here in search of a home. His family, yet on the river, had been 
nine weeks in a stinking ark, coming from Pittsburgh, and ever 
since April last in getting from England, by way of Canada, hither. 
I asked him if he repented leaving England. "I do," said he, "a 
good deal, and so does my poor wife;" and then he burst into tears. 
The tears of a man are hard-wrung drops. "You were getting, 
I suppose, a comfortable living in England?" "Oh no! taxes, 
tithes, rates, &c." "What money did you bring away?" "But a 
little, and besides my passage to Canada, where I could have had 
100 acres for nothing, I have spent 50 /. in getting to this west- 
ern country. The captain told me that Canada was my best way, 
and I have now but little left." He thought of going to the 
Prairie. I told him he had better settle here. They of the Prairie 
are proud, and wanted only high-bred English. I encouraged this 
poor, desponding, ill-advised, weak man to hope for better times 
in this good land, where he said he was willing to labour. 

Taverns are always charitable to moneyless travellers, if they 
are sure of their poverty, feeding them gratis as they pass along, as 
instanced in a moneyless female, and a sick man whom I met in the 
stage coming here. The Scots frequently plead poverty, and get 
fed gratis, while their pockets are full of dollars. 

Mr. J. Ingle and maid started this morning, with a waggon, 
to Princeton, for boards, though living in a forest full of boards 
when sawn. He drove the waggon himself, and she was to get 
groceries and butter, if she could get it under twenty-five cents 
per lb. Thus, for two days, we were left without water, or an axe 
to hew firewood, or any person to milk and feed a kicking cow and 
pigs. 

17th. — A stranger called and brushed out of the rain. He said 
he was short of money, and came ten miles to sell two pigs, fat, 



322 Early Travels in Indiana. 

weighing 400 lbs. the two, but was not able to sell them at more 
than four dollars a cwt.; he could not afford to make pork at that 
price. No pigs fat this year at mast, only passable pork; but when 
quite fat they must have corn for two or three weeks to harden 
them, though they get no fatter, or else the bacon would drip all 
summer, and when boiled, the fat become oil and run out into the 
water. He has seventeen acres of corn; a bad crop, not enough for 
his own use. Few farmers are ever able to hire labourers, though 
he thinks it would answer if they could; still it is best to do all the 
work by one's-self or family. I went to turn the grindstone for 
J. Ingle's carpenter, at Mr. Maidlow's, one mile and a half off. 
Went over his fine farm, that is to be. I think it is the best I 
have been in this settlement. On it I saw a lick of singular size, 
extending over nearly half an acre of land, all excavated three feet, 
that is to say, licked away, and eaten by buffaloes, deer, and other 
wild animals. It has the appearance of a large pond dried. The 
earth is soft, salt, and sulphurous, and they still resort to it. Mr. 
Maidlow thinks that Cobbett is much nearer the truth than Birk- 
beck, in his account of the west. Had he now the chance of choos- 
ing, he would purchase, in the east, improvements at eighteen dol- 
lars an acre, like the farm of Mr. Long, as he finds that making 
improvements in the west costs much money. He believes Birk- 
beck is spending money fast. He does not think that capital 
employed in farming here will answer, or that cultivation will pay, 
if done by hired labour. Out of 900 acres, (all he intends buy- 
ing) he means to cultivate and graze only about 100 acres; no more 
than they can manage of themselves. He does not expect to 
increase his capital, but by the increase in value of land. He 
means to build a mill, and plant a large orchard; is digging a well, 
and finds some fine good burning coal in it, and a vast mine of rich 
blue marl. The Missouri, says he, is full of all the rich resources of 
nature; land, very fine. Here is a large family of men, and Mrs. 
Maidlow and daughter are drudges to the house, cooking, scour- 
ing, and scrubbing, continually. A young lady cleaning knives! 
How horrid!! ' 

18th. — A few months since, J. Ingle agreed with a neighbour- 
ing Kentuckyan hunter, to build him a log-house, to be begun 
and finished in a given time. The fellow was procrastinating, and 
too idle to begin, yet for ever promising. At length Mr. Ingle told 
him, that unless he began on a certain day, at noon, at latest, the 
contract should be void, and others should begin it. He came on 
the day mentioned, but not until six in the evening, when other had 



William Faux. 323 

begun the job. Greatly enraged, he said, he had come, and would 
begin in spite of any body. Mr. Ingle said he should never 
touch it. He said he would, or have Mr. Ingle's blood; "and to- 
morrow morn, I will come with men, and twenty rifles, and I will 
have your life, or you shall have mine." Mr. Ingle thought of 
having recourse to the civil power, which is very distant, inso- 
much that the people speak and seem as if they were without a 
government, and name it only as a bugbear. 

J. Ingle returned this evening with his poplar boards, not worth 
carriage, and without being able to buy any tea, sugar, butter, 
cheese, or apples, for his use, at Princeton, though a county town, 
having a fine store out of stock, which it receives only once a-year. 

19th. — A parson, with his wife, and sixty others, about eigh- 
teen months ago, came from the east, as settlers, to the big prairie 
of Illinois; in which, during the sickly season, last fall, an eighth of 
their number died in six weeks. Having lost his wife amongst the 
rest, he has cleared out, and lives by his itinerant ministrations. 

It is useless to fence much more land than is cleared, because, 
until the country is cleared round about, the autumnal fires would 
destroy the fences. The cattle, therefore, must range in the woods, 
until some small inclosures, for pasture, can be made. Through the 
summer, both night and day, but mostly in the night, the mos- 
quitoes, both in Indiana and Illinois, but chiefly in the latter, were, 
in their attacks, almost sufficient to drive English settlers out. If a 
man had been lashed naked to a post, he must have been stung to 
death, or unto madness. At Sandersville, says J. Ingle, they 
blinded several persons. 

The Cherokee nation once wishing to war against the United 
States, sent their favourite chief, old Double-head, to Philadelphia, 
to sound parties, and return with his opinion either for or against 
it. "Oh," said he, on his return, "we must not war; I have seen 
more white men in one town, than would be sufficient to eat all the 
Indians, if made into a pie." They have never since thought of 
war, but what few remain, are friendly and civilized, and fight 
for Uncle Sam. Some cultivate their land, and possess negroes. 

20th. — -At nine this morning, after a fortnight's stay at Sand- 
ersville, I mounted the neck of an ill mis-shapen, dull, stumbling 
beast, called a horse, the best that friendship and good-will could 
procure, for conveying me, in company with J. Ingle, to the state 
of Illinois, by way of the far-famed Harmony. I rode, in fear, all 
day, through woods and wilds; sometimes almost trackless. We 
were lost twice. The people seem to know nothing of time, and dis- 



324 Early Travels in Indiana. 

tance of places from each other; some telling us it was ten, when it 
was two, and three, when it was twelve o'clock; and as to dis- 
tance, twenty when it was twenty-seven, and fifteen, when it was 
ten miles to Harmony. I expected to camp out all night, with no 
means of getting a fire. I saw nothing but good land, and (where 
any) fine corn; but no comfortable dwellings; all, miserable little 
log-holes, having neither springs nor mill-streams. We were very 
courteously shewn our way by a worshipful magistrate of Indiana, 
at work by the road side, hewing and splitting wood. 

We rested, twenty minutes, at a log of one of Cobbett's Yan- 
kee farmers, with a fine family of boys, big enough for men, and 
handsome, sprightly, and free-looking, as ever walked the earth. 
I would have given something for a picture of them, being self- 
taught shoemakers, butchers, wheelwrights, carpenters, and what 
not, and having cleared, from 320 acres, 60 acres, and cropped them 
twice in two years. The mother sat, smoking her pipe, fat and 
easy. The father is ready to sell out at 1,200 dollars; a fair price, 
says Mr. Ingle. They think well of this country, but were able to 
grow more wheat per acre in Pennsylvania; there, thirty-four, here, 
twenty to twenty-four bushels an acre; they can have seventy- 
five cents at home, or carrying it twenty miles or less, one dollar a 
bushel, for wheat. The old fellow says that the Harmonites do 
their business of all kinds better than any body else. 

I saw, on the Harmony lands and fields, of great size, wheat, 
finer and thicker, planted with two bushels, than in England with 
three and a half bushels per acre. The fields, however, lie in a 
vale of prodigious richness. 

I reached Harmony at dusk, and found a large and comfort- 
able brick tavern, the best and cleanest which I have seen in In- 
diana, and slept in a good, clean bed-room, four beds in a room, 
one in each corner; but found bad beef, though good bread, and 
high charges, one dollar, five cents, each. 

A stranger present, asked our landlord of what religion were 
the community of Harmony. In broken English, and rather cross- 
ly, he replied, "Dat's no matter; they are all a satisfied peo- 
ple." The spell, or secret, by which these people are held in volun- 
tary slavery, is not to be known or fathomed by inquiry. We asked 
if strangers were permitted to go to their church to-morrow. 
"No," was the answer. This is unprecedented in the civilized 
world. 

Sunday, 21st. — At Harmony till ten o'clock, when we were 
told, "we must then depart, or stay until after the morning ser- 



William Faux. 325 

vice," which commences at ten o'clock. At the moment the bells 
began chiming, the people, one and all, from every quarter, hurry 
into their fine church like frighted doves to their windows; the 
street leading to the temple seems filled in a minute, and in less 
than ten minutes, all this large congregation, 1,000 men, women, 
and children, all who can walk or ride, are in the church, the males 
entering in at the side, the females at the tower, and separately 
seated. Then enters the old High Priest, Mr. Rapp, of about 
eighty, straight and active as his adopted son, Frederick, who 
walks behind him. The old man's wife and daughters enter with the 
crowd, from his fine house, which looks as if the people who built 
it for him, thought nothing too good for him. This people are 
never seen in idle groups; all is moving industry; no kind of 
idling; no time for it. Religious service takes place three times every 
day. They must be in the chains of superstition, though Rapp pro- 
fesses to govern them only by the Bible, and they certainly seem 
the perfection of obedience and morality. People who have left 
them say, that Rapp preaches, that if they quit the society, they 
will be damned, for his way is the only way to Heaven. He does 
much by signs, and by an impressive manner, stretching out his 
arm, which, he says, is the arm of God, and that they must obey 
it; and that when he dies, his spirit will descend unto his son 
Fred. The people appear saturnine, and neither very cleanly nor 
very dirty. They are dressed much alike, and look rather shabby, 
just as working folk in general look. None are genteel. The 
women are intentionally disfigured and made as ugly as it is pos- 
sible for art to make them, having their hair combed straight up 
behind and before, so that the temples are bared, and a little skull- 
cap, or black crape bandage, across the crown, and tied under 
the chin. This forms their only headdress. 

I rode round the town, which will soon be the best and first in 
the Western country. At present, the dwellings, with the excep- 
tion of Rapp's, and the stores and taverns, are all log-houses, with 
a cow-house and other conveniences. One is given to each family, 
and a fine cow, and nice garden; other necessaries are shared in 
common. Their horses, cattle, and sheep, are all in one stable; 
herds and flocks are folded every night, in comfortable sheds, 
particularly an immensely large flock of Merino sheep; and so 
secured from the wolves. They have a fine vineyard in the vale, 
and on the hills around, which are as beautiful as if formed by art 
to adorn the town. Not a spot but bears the most luxuriant vines, 
from which they make excellent wine. Their orchards, too, are of 



326 Early Travels in Indiana. 

uncommon size and fertility; and in a large pleasure garden is a 
curious labyrinth, out of which none but those who formed it, or 
are well acquainted with it, can find their way. 

Their granary is superb and large, and the barns and farm- 
yards are singularly capacious, as well as their cloth and other 
manufactories. It is the wise policy of this people to buy nothing 
which it is possible for them to make or raise, and their industry 
and ingenuity are irresistible. They have much to sell, at their 
own price, of almost every thing domestic and foreign. They can 
not make shoes half so fast as they could sell them. It is not 
doubted but they are immensely rich, beginning in Pennsylvania 
with only 4,000 I., and being now worth 500,000 I. They keep no 
accounts, and all business is done and every thing possessed in 
Frederick Rapp's name. They have been in this Harmony five 
years only; they bought a huge territory of the richest land, which 
is all paid for, and keep an immense quantity in high cultivation, 
and continue to buy out bordering settlers, thus ever enlarging 
their boundaries. An American widower, with ten children, joined 
them some time ago, in distress for his children; all are well off now. 

They work very gently, but constantly. At eleven I left 
Harmony, wishing to see more of this singular community. Rapp 
came hither a poor, unlettered weaver from Germany. 

I entered the woods again, on the banks of the fine river, the 
Big Wabash, wider than the Thames at London. There are no 
regular roads; but, over creeks and swamps, and the Black River, 
now dry, we took our way, and met six bastard Indian-like horse- 
men, drinking whiskey in the woods, looking wild and jovial, 
dressed in sky-blue and scarlet. Crossed the Big river into Illinois, 
after being lost one hour. 



From A visit to the colony of Harmony in Indiana, by 
William Hebert [1825.] 

Hebert, William. 

One of the many curious visitors who flocked to New Harmony, Indiana, 
during the days of the Rappite Colony was one William Hebert of London. 
He made his visit during the last half of the year 1823. The chief value of 
his notes lies in the full discussion given of the purely religious and social 
conditions that prevailed in the colony. 

The State Library has a typewritten copy made from the original 
edition, a copy of which is in the library of the Workingmen's Institute, 
New Harmony, Indiana. 

A 
VISIT TO THE COLONY 

of 

HARMONY, 

In Indiana, 

In the United States of America, 

Recently purchased by Mr. Owen for the establishment of a 

SOCIETY OF MUTUAL CO-OPERATION 

and 

COMMUNITY OF PROPERTY, 

In a letter to a friend; 
To which are added, 
Some observations on that mode of society, and on 
political society at large: 

also, 

A sketch of the formation of 

A CO-OPERATIVE SOCIETY. 



"Many, schemes ridiculed as Utopian, decried as visionary, and 
declaimed against as impracticable, will be realized the moment 



(327) 



328 Early Travels in Indiana. 

the march of sound knowledge has effected this for our species; 
that of making men wise enough to see their true interests, and 
disinterested enough to pursue them." — Lacon. 

By WILLIAM HEBERT. 



LONDON: 
Printed for George Mann, 39, Cornhill. 



1825 

A VISIT, 

&c. 



Albion, Edward's County, Illinois, 
6th February, 1823. 
Dear Sir, 

In the month of September last I made an excursion with a 
friend to the celebrated German Colony in our neighborhood at 
Harmony, the name of the place being characteristic of the society 
that is settled there. It is situated in a thickly wooded country 
on the banks of the Wabash, on the Indiana side, at about thirty 
miles from the mouth of that river. The site of ground upon 
which the town stands is generally flat for about a mile and a half 
from the river, when the surface of the country becomes hilly and 
pleasingly undulating. This singular community consists of about 
seven hundred individuals, chiefly from Wirtemburg and its neigh- 
borhood. They have occupied their present situation about seven 
years, having been induced to relinquish a former establishment in 
a back situation of Pennsylvania, near Pittsburg, from its beginning, 
[becoming] as it is supposed, too thickly settled to suit the 
peculiar tenets or policy of their society. The progress which this 
religious community made in agriculture and every other kind of 
industry when settled in Pennsylvania, was a subject of astonish- 
ment to their neighbors for many miles around, but I apprehend 



William Hebert. 329 

that their present advanced state of improvement and accumulat- 
ing wealth, justly excite the admiration of all acquainted with them 
here to a yet greater degree. It is presumable that they have made 
far greater progress here than they did in Pennsylvania, from their 
having been much longer established, and from a consideration 
of the sum of money for which they sold their former establish- 
ment, compared with the vast value of their present possessions. 
These good people have literally made the "barren wilderness to 
smile" with corn fields, meadows, and gardens upon a most exten- 
sive scale. Their little town, seen from the neighboring hills, 
which are covered with their vineyards and orchards, has an 
exceedingly pleasing appearance, the Wabash, which is here an 
ample stream, being seen to wind its course in front of it, and 
beneath the luxuriant and lofty woods on the opposite banks of 
Illinois. The town is regularly laid out into straight and spacious 
streets, crossing each other at right angles, in common with modern 
American towns. The log cabins are giving place as fast as pos- 
sible to neat and commodious brick and framed houses, which are 
extremely well built, the uniform redness of the brick of which the 
majority of them is composed giving to the place a brightness of 
appearance which the towns of England are quite destitute of. 
Nothing, I think, detracts so much from the beauty of London, 
next to the irregularity with which it is built, as the earthy or mud- 
coloured appearance of the houses, forming so great a contrast to 
the wealth and splendour within a considerable portion of them. 
The house of Mr. Rapp, the pastor of the community, is a large 
square mansion of brick, having a good garden and suitable out- 
houses attached. The streets of the little town of Harmony are 
planted on each side with Lombardy poplars, but as these are 
found to die as soon as their roots come in contact with the sub- 
stratum of sand, they are replaced with mulberry trees. A town 
being thus planted with trees, has a very picturesque effect from a 
distance, it appearing to stand in a grove, beside the pleasant use 
of affording shade and shelter when walking about it. The town is 
amply supplied with excellent wells, as also with public ovens, 
which are placed at regular and convenient distances from each 
other. Their granaries, barns, factories, &c. are generally built in 
an exceedingly handsome and durable manner. Here too, in 
token of Christianity being planted, (though in its most rigid 
character) amongst Indian woods which had but lately resounded 
with the yells of their untutored inhabitants, rises the pretty 
village church, the white steeple of which, seen from afar through 



330 Early Travels in Indiana. 

the widely extended clearings and forests of girdled trees, seems to 
invite the traveller onward to a peaceful resting place. And such 
it is, Harmony is truly the abode of peace and industry. The 
society, however, possesses one principle of so unsocial and dis- 
piriting a character, as to throw a shade over the whole scene in a 
moral sense, and to fill the mind with commiseration for men who 
can so construe any of the precepts of Christianity into a virtual 
prohibition of the sacred ties of the married state. The Harmon- 
ians are a class of Lutherans, who, though they do not expressly 
prohibit marriage, discountenance it to an extent that nearly 
amounts to a prohibition in effect. They profess to adhere to the 
advice of St. Paul, in regard to this point of morality. Upon 
my enquiring of one of them, a candid and amiable person, how 
long it had been since a marriage had taken place amongst them, 
he said, nearly three years, and it was presumable that none was 
contemplated as about to take place at the time of my inquiry. 
This in a community which can contain scarcely less than a hun- 
dred young persons of suitable ages to enter upon the marriage 
state, and surrounded with plenty secured to them upon their 
system of society! The Harmonians consider the single state as 
higher in a moral estimation than the married one, as the Cath- 
olics are said to esteem it. 

As you may suppose, the utmost regularity and decorum subsists 
amongst them. They work easily, but their hours of labour are of the 
usual length of the labourer's day, being from sunrise to sunset. 
They are an exceedingly industrious race of people, being occasional- 
ly busy long before sunrise in some departments of their establish- 
ment, such as their Distillery, Brewery and Mills, which sometimes 
require their attendance through the night. It is understood that 
they subsist upon a principle of fellowship, or of united labor and 
capital, all deriving their food and clothing from the common 
stock, every individual however being accountable for the appli- 
cation of his time, and the amount of the articles he has from the 
stores. When any one is remiss or irregular to an extent to become 
an object of attention, no coercive measures are resorted to, but the 
idle or offending person is treated with distance or neglect, which, 
together with verbal reproof, are found to be fully efficacious to 
reform. The Harmonians are, however, an extremely regular and 
sober-minded people, whose happiness is certainly the happiness 
of ignorance, the pursuits of literature being wholly neglected or 
prohibited amongst them. They appear to do every thing with a 
mechanical regularity. Their town is consequently very still, the 



William Hebert. 331 

sounds of mirth or conviviality being rarely heard within it, except- 
ing when their American or English neighbors resort there for 
purposes of trade or to negotiate their money transactions. Being 
great capitalists, resulting wholly from their industry, they are 
frequently resorted to by persons in this neighborhood, who receive 
remittances by bills on the eastern cities, to obtain cash for 
them. As a society they are extremely wealthy. Having over- 
come all the difficulties incident to their establishment in a 
wilderness, they_ have only to improve their manufactures and 
extend the sphere of their operations to acquire almost incalcu- 
lable wealth. This numerous community of men of humble life 
embraces within it several artisans of nearly all of the most use- 
ful occupations of life, to the exclusion or suppression of those 
which they do not deem essential to their welfare. Amongst the 
latter, I am sorry to say they include that of a printer, they being 
wholly without one, and seem fully persuaded that the employ- 
ment of one, if it would not be detrimental to their peace or their 
interests, is at least superfluous to them. They are generally 
averse to communication on the subjects of the tenets and the 
policy of their society. It may be presumed that they are totally 
unused to liberal discussion, and may be considered an ignorant 
and priest-ridden set of people. Mr. Rapp is alike their spiritual 
teacher and temporal director, who is as much accustomed to 
superintend their operations in their fields and factories, as to lec- 
ture them on their duty, and who will sometimes spend as much 
time in exploring their woods in search of a particular tree for a 
specific purpose, as in enforcing his arguments for the peculiar 
doctrines of their faith. He is their alpha and omega, without 
whom they think nothing, do nothing, and perhaps would have 
been nothing. Mr. Frederick Rapp,' an adopted son of Mr. Rapp 
the pastor, a bachelor of about forty years of age, appears to be the 
sole cashier and ostensible proprietor of all the produce and manu- 
factures of the society, all bills and receipts being made and given 
in his name only. I am informed however that their land which is 
of great extent and of the first quality, is entered at the land- 
office in the form of "Frederick Rapp and his associates," which 
circumstance I was glad to learn, as it indicates something like 
joint property on this material point, whatever may be the fact 
in other respects. The affairs of the community are not regulated 
by a committee, or court of directors, chosen periodically and in 
rotation from among its members, which would possible be deemed 
as "romantic" as the representative system of government is 



332 Early Travels in Indiana. 

termed by the present emperor of Austria, but by a few of the 
most influential individuals amongst them. The governing power 
seems to be composed of Mr. Rapp and his adopted son, with the 
assistance of the superintendent of the general store, the doc- 
tor, the sadler, the smith, and the keeper of the house of "private 
entertainment," (the designation of the tavern,) and perhaps a few 
other persons; but those enumerated are the ostensible managers, 
each of whom receives money in his particular department. 
Further than this, nothing is known respecting the pecuniary 
arrangements of the society. Whether the governing power of 
the Harmonians has any constitutional shape is unknown, but its 
efficiency is matter of astonishment to all who have surveyed the 
scene of its operation. If justice prevail in the society it is well, 
and they are a peculiarly respectable body of people, to be com- 
passionated only for the gloomy character of their religious opin- 
ions and their general ignorance. And if equity do not subsist 
amongst them, and the majority are duped by the wary and pow- 
erful few, they still appear a contented people, and to entertain an 
opinion of mutuality of possession, though they may not possibly 
have any very correct ideas or information upon the subject. It is 
known that books of account are kept, in which are entered the 
amount of every labourer and mechanic's daily earnings, together 
with the daily amount of the articles each has from the stores; 
but it is not known that there is any general account kept of the 
external transactions of the society, or of the value of grain, beef, 
pork, whiskey, beer, wine, and of various manufactures that are 
exported from Harmony to New Orleans and elsewhere, besides 
an immense amount of goods sold by retail at their general store, 
the return for all which is chiefly in specie. The Harmonians have 
commercial agents in several of the principal cities of the Union, 
whose purchases of merchandise being sent to Harmony, are dis- 
persed through the surrounding country by means of their store at 
home, and others which it appears they think it worth while to 
possess in different towns in the neighborhood, which latter 
are superintended on commission by persons not of their society. 
They have it already in their power to say that they raise or pro- 
duce every thing necessary to comfort, with an exception only to 
groceries, which last however they procure in exchange for their 
own commodities, chiefly for sale, as it is said the people in general 
are not allowed the use of tea or coffee, although the heads of the 
community indulge in those agreeable and exhilarating bever- 
ages. The Harmonians are upon the whole an interesting body of 



William Hebert. 333 

people, but it is impossible to regard their commercial spirit with- 
out a sentiment of fear or suspicion that it militates against that 
purity and austerity of character which they are in other respects 
so scrupulous of maintaining. One might enquire what is the 
probable destination of this community at the distance of half a 
century? The principle of celibacy upon which it is governed 
tends nearly to its extinction within this period. Upon enquiring 
of the good man, the keeper of the house of "private entertain- 
ment," who showed us about the town, if they were not desirous of in- 
creasing the number of their society, he replied, "not by strangers," 
and upon my friend's enquiry whether they were not desirous of 
receiving an accession of numbers from amongst their own country- 
men, he said, that they considered their own countrymen, who 
were not of their faith, equally strangers to them with Ameri- 
cans or English ; and having repeated that they were not desirous 
of increasing their number "by strangers," he added, "that is the 
answer," implying that the answer he had given us, was "the 
answer" to all enquiries of that nature. Our guide informed us 
that their number was a little above seven hundred, but that he 
did not recollect the exact number, which last part of his communi- 
cation I thought somewhat strange in an elderly and influential 
associate. With respect to the Messieurs Rapp and their coad- 
jutors keeping books of account of the amount of their annual 
income by exports and sales at home, and of the value of the dis- 
posable property on hand, for the information and satisfaction of 
the whole of the community, I never heard that there were any 
kept here, but I have been given to understand that a great book of 
accounts which had been kept at their establishment in Penn- 
sylvania, was lost at the time of their removal, or shortly after it; 
and this story is accompanied by another, which, though not sur- 
prising in itself, becomes measureable so, when connected with the 
loss of the book of accounts. The second story is, that the heads 
of the society never received but a small portion of the sum for 
which they sold their former establishment. These circumstances 
would be little worthy notice, did the heads of the Harmonians 
evince an independence of pecuniary or commercial pursuits, 
whereas they are notoriously keen in dealing, and appear to be 
arrant money-lovers. The Harmonians seem in a measure to have 
adopted the policy of the Roman priesthood during the ages of 
their greatest power, which by forbidding their fraternity to 
marry, preserved the power and possessions of the church wholly 
within itself, and prevented that relaxation of interest and opposi- 



334 Early Travels in Indiana. 

tion of sentiment in its concerns, which would have resulted from a 
matrimonial connection of the reverend order with the laity, and 
these humble sectarians preserve an insular policy to the utmost 
extent of their power. Their children few as they are, have but 
the common rudiments of an education given to them, and are 
prevented as much as possible from learning the English lan- 
guage. Mr. Rapp, the pastor, it is said, does not speak a word of 
English, although he has lived in America nine or ten years; 
and notwithstanding that his son and the other leading mem- 
bers of the community speak it very well. That an arch craft rules 
the society I would not insinuate, and am indeed far from con- 
cluding upon, but that several circumstances exist, strong enough 
altogether to induce a fear of wrong, or to keep alive speculation, 
must I think, be obvious to every person who has any knowledge 
of the outrageous impositions which avarice and ambition, under 
the garb of priestly sanctity, have practiced upon the simplicity, 
the credulity, and pliancy of mankind. As great events sometimes 
spring from little causes, so small matters sometimes elucidate 
large ones. On the door of the house of "private entertainment" 
was written "grapes 12^ cents per lb." Now I would enquire, 
who were to buy these grapes at 12| cents, per lb.? Surely not 
the poor vine dressers or working people themselves, though I 
doubt whether any of them could obtain any without allowing for 
them out of their earnings; and if the bill were put up to invite the 
purchases of American travellers, the proceeds from this source of 
sale must have been trifling in the extreme. I was struck with 
the paltry purport of this paper at the moment I saw it, and how- 
ever it happened, it was taken down a short time after our arrival. 
It is this excessive spirit of trade in the Harmonians that forms the 
great defect, and I may say the anomaly of their character, con- 
sidered as a society of rigid and puritanical christians, living remote 
from the political world, as one would have supposed, with a view 
to independence of its cares and pursuits. These people exhibit 
considerable taste as well as boldness of design in some of their 
works. They are erecting a noble church, the roof of which is sup- 
ported in the interior by a great number of stately columns, which 
have been turned from trees of their own forests. The kinds of 
wood made use of for this purpose are, I am informed, black 
walnut, cherry, and sassafras. Nothing I think can exceed the 
grandeur of the joinery, and the masonry and brick-work seem to 
be of the first order. The form of this church is that of a cross, 
the limbs being short and equal; and as the doors, of which there 



William Hebert. 335 

are four, are placed at the ends of the limbs, the interior of the 
building as seen from the entrances, has a most ample and spa- 
cious effect. A quadrangular story or compartment containing 
several rooms, is raised on the body of the church, the sides of 
which inclining inwards towards the top, are terminated by a 
square gallery, in the centre of which is a small circular tower of 
about ten feet in height, which is surmounted with a silvered 
globe. The reason assigned by our guide for the erection of this 
fine edifice was, that the first church being built wholly of wood, is 
found to be so hot during the summer, when the whole of the so- 
ciety are assembled within it, as to be scarcely supportable, in con- 
sequence of which it was resolved to delay the building of their 
houses for a time, and raise a more spacious and substantial place 
of worship, and the one they are employed upon bids fairly to do 
them honor, both in the design and execution. It is much more 
spacious than the number of their society requires. I could scarcely 
imagine myself to be in the woods of Indiana, on the borders of the 
Wabash, while pacing the long resounding aisles, and surveying 
the stately colonades of this church. Here too the Englishman is 
once more gratified with the sound of a church bell, which how- 
ever harsh it may sometimes be thought by those who have never 
strayed beyond the sound of one, imparts a gratification after a 
period of estrangement from it, as connected with early associa- 
tions, infinitely more soothing than could the most delicate strains 
of music. As if, however the good Harmonians could not lose sight 
of a gainful utility in any thing, the vaults of their new church are 
appropriated to the reception of stores of various kinds. In 
descending from the steeple of the old church (from which a beau- 
tiful scene presents itself of the wonderful effects of united indus- 
try) we perceived that the upper compartment of that building was 
also used as a store for grain, earthenware, cotton, &c. The Har- 
monians are said to be excellent musicians, and to make a great 
use of instrumental music in their worship, maintaining by the 
cultivation of this exquisite science and their unanimity, a two- 
fold claim to their designation as a society. The shortness of our 
stay did not afford us an opportunity of attending their religious 
service. I am informed that during the harvest season, the 
troops of reapers, male and female, leave the field preceded by 
music. To this I would merely say, that I wish them every happi- 
ness compatible with the repression of the all-ennobling passion of 
love. They seem to me however to have struck at the root of 
earthly joy, and I earnestly wish them every success in devising 



336 Eaely Travels in Indiana. 

substitutes, or any means of alleviation of their cheerless situa- 
tion. These good people retain their German style of dress. 
There is nothing remarkable in that of the men. The women wear 
close and long-bodied jackets, or spencers, and gipsey bonnets. 
They are said to be a healthy looking people, and I imagine they 
are so, although this was not the case at the time of our visit, 
which was at the latter end of September, that being generally the 
most trying time of the year, and a considerable number of them 
were sick. I must mention, that in addition to their vineyards 
and orchards covering many of the neighboring hills the Har- 
monians have formed an extensive garden in the form of a laby- 
rinth, having a pretty rustic building in the centre. The mazy 
walks toward this hermitage are formed by espalier fruit trees, and 
currant and hazel bushes in almost interminable rounds. It does 
not appear that the people enjoy any periods of relaxation, except- 
ing on Sundays, when they are allowed to walk about the garden, 
the orchards and vineyards, in some situations of which tables 
and benches are placed for the purpose of taking refreshment. 
My friend and I were shown their cotton and woolen factories, 
with which we were much pleased. The products of these estab- 
lishments are much esteemed by the country around. I saw some 
very good blue cloth from the wool of their own flocks, and good 
cotton fabrics, such as are generally worn in the western country. 
A great number of men, women, and children are employed in 
these departments. They have a fine steam engine in use in their 
factories. The morning on which we were shown about the town 
happened to be somewhat cool after rain, our guide who would be 
as cheerful as his habits of thinking permitted, observed that the 
air was "entirely pleasant," upon which I took occasion to ask him, 
if he considered the climate and country of Indiana equal to those 
of the part of Germany he had quitted. Here however nature was 
true to herself, for he replied with great feeling, that the climate 
and beauty of Germany were so superior to those of Indiana, that 
the latter was not to be brought into comparison with the former. 
But maintaining his consistency of character, be observed "we 
are happier here than we could have been in Germany, we could 
not have done there what we have here". I could perceive how- 
ever, that his native country had charms for him that he could not 
do justice to, and that in "expressive silence," he mused its praise. 
He informed us that the severity of the winter in their part of 
Indiana, (in about latitude 38,) is such, as to render it necessary to 
bury one kind of their vines, (the Portugal or red Lisbon,) by 



William Hebert. 337 

bending them to the ground, and covering them with earth; 
the only method of preserving potatoes and turnips here during 
the winter being by burying them. The severity of the winters of 
this part of the world forms an astonishing contrast to the great 
and long continued heat of its summers, uniting in this respect the 
cold of much higher latitudes with a heat little inferior to that of 
the tropics. 

During our stay at Harmony we witnessed some very aston- 
ishing flights of pigeons. Such were their numbers, that they 
literally formed clouds, and floated through the air in a frequent 
succession of these as far as the eye could reach, sometimes caus- 
ing a sensible gust of wind, and a considerable motion of the trees 
over which they flew. At that time of the year these birds 
congregate in the woods of this part of America by millions. 
Parties are sometimes formed to go to their roosts by night, 
when by knocking them off the trees with poles, any quantity of 
them may be taken. In case you may have thought me too 
severe upon the Harmonians in regard to their trading spirit, an 
excess of which I think derogatory to the christian character, and 
more especially in a society of christians who profess to live in a 
state of seclusion from the world and more conformably to the 
precepts of the gospel, I would say, I have perhaps been the more 
strict with them from a consideration of the consistent and dig- 
nified conduct of a society of friends situated also in Indiana, near 
the same river, and about a hundred miles to the north of Har- 
mony, who are commonly known here by the name of the "Shak- 
ers" or "Shaking Quakers." There is also, I am informed, another 
society of these friends in the state of Ohio. These societies are 
constituted upon a principle of reciprocal assistance and common 
property, and like the Harmonians refrain from marriage, but with 
a strictness that amounts to an absolute prohibition of it. These 
good people however consistently disclaim an attention to mer- 
cantile or pecuniary concerns beyond the demands of their necessi- 
ties or personal comfort. They also have effected great things by 
united exertion, but they have no traffic with the surrounding 
country beyond the limits I have mentioned. They have their 
capacious granaries, fine mills, and machinery of various kinds, 
but they adhere to their object of living in christian fellowship, 
in a state of plenty and independence of the world. They are not 
merchants or money-changers, and when visited by strangers, 
entertain them gratis. This you will allow to be really respect- 
able. 

T— 22 



338 Early Travels in Indiana. 

Having mentioned all the particulars of these interesting com- 
munities that I think worthy notice, 

I remain, 

Dear Sir, 

Your's sincerely, 

W. H. 

OBSERVATIONS, &c. 

From the foregoing circumstances relative to the Harmon- 
ians and Friends, it is but fair to conclude that if a society could be 
formed of any convenient number of families, each contributing 
only one hundred pounds towards a common fund, and were with 
this to seek an agricultural and manufacturing establishment in 
some convenient situation of Great Britain, Ireland, Hanover, or 
any part of protestant Europe, they might by the formation of an 
equitable constitution, and the enactment of a suitable code of 
laws which should always preserve the door of regress open for 
insubordinate or discontented members, and by the encourage- 
ment of literary and scientific pursuits for the occupation of their 
leisure time, attain to a degree of earthly comfort, not unassociated 
with refinement, hitherto unknown. Such a society would of 
course embrace within it several individuals of all the most useful 
occupations of life, and every thing would necessarily be effected 
for the benefit of the community upon an entire system of recipro- 
cation; and might be conducted similarly to the manner in which 
public societies are generally managed. No one need doubt the 
practicability of this. No one indeed could doubt it, who had 
visited Harmony, and seen the astonishing effects of the united 
and systematic industry of numbers, and the numerous comforts, 
as well as the security derived from this enlarged system of social 
intercourse. The greatest internal obstacle to the welfare of a 
society of this kind in Europe might be the want of a religious 
bond of union, but surely the spirit of Christianity, with all its 
variety of sects, ought to be equal to this. To obviate or lessen any 
difficulty that might arise from difference of religious opinion, a 
general spirit of forbearance and liberality would be necessary, and 
the erection of places of worship convenient for every denomina- 
tion of which the community was composed, desirable; the 
officiating members of which should be prohibited by the constitu- 
tion, under the penalty of expulsion, from preaching in terms offen- 
sive to, or abusive of the tenets of christians of other sects, or 
laying any stigma on any system or kind of belief whatever; on the 



William Hebert. 339 

principle that differences of religious opinion are within the deci- 
sion of the Deity alone, on whose favour and approbation all have 
an equal right of reliance. The objects of such a community would 
be industry, society, independence or self-subsistence, leisure for 
mental culture, and rational amusements; and freedom from the 
solicitude, anxieties, and incertitude of pecuniary pursuits and 
possessions. The principal obstacles to an establishment of this 
kind in Europe, would arise from rent, or the high rate of the pur- 
chase of the land, the exaction of taxes and military service. From 
the last of these however exemption might generally perhaps be 
purchased, and the first and second, if not too heavy, might be 
defrayed from the funds, or by the sale of a portion of the produce 
or manufactures of the society. America however has every civil 
advantage and natural facility for such a society to Europe. 

To some it might appear irksome, and perhaps slavish, to be 
obliged to regulate their conduct as members of a community, by 
the sound of a bell or the notes of a horn, but this feeling could 
arise only in the absence of a due apprehension of the situation, 
and of the circumstances of the case. Those persons who have not 
property to live independently of industry must exert themselves 
for their support in some way or other, and industry is pleasant 
in proportion to its regularity and moderation, and the prospect it 
affords of being effective of comfortable subsistence. Every per- 
son entering an association of the kind contemplated, would be 
sensible that it could exist only by the industry of all its mem- 
bers; that by the exertion of this, every one would be pursuing his 
own true interests as a proprietor, by contributing to the utmost of 
his ability to the welfare of the society ; that as his entrance into it 
was voluntary, so would his continuance in it be, consistently 
with its constitution, and the experience of two or three years 
would convince its members that the daily quantity of labour and 
attention requisite to its concerns would be very far less than is 
given by tradesmen and mechanics in Europe, and in Great 
Britain especially, to procure their comparatively precarious sub- 
sistence. On the other hand, one might suppose a due apprecia- 
tion of his situation would be calculated to make every individual 
cheerfully alert in the performance of his portion of assistance in a 
compact based on the sacred principle of equity, and that of 
mutuality of possession and enjoyment. 

An agricultural and manufacturing community, subsisting its 
members in plenty and respectability upon the plan of that bene- 
factor of his race, Mr. Robert Owen, and somewhat similar to 



340 Early Travels in Indiana. 

those of the Friends and Harmonians, would be but carrying the 
principle of Benefit societies as far as it would go, resting it upon 
that of an equitable reciprocation of services amongst all its mem- 
bers, which, could the industry and concord of them be estab- 
lished, might be rendered a secure and pleasant mode of 
subsistence to hundreds, and in different communities perhaps 
to thousands. 

Although this plan of society should appear to be not without 
objection, or even objectionable on several accounts, it may be 
asked, whether the evils of insolvency or bankrupcy, of depend- 
ence and poverty, or of prisons and workhouses are not greater 
and more numerous than those of the plan contemplated could be? 
Supposing such a compact to be practicable, (and with the socie- 
ties of the Harmonians and Friends of America before our eyes 
who can doubt it?) he that was hostile to it, merely on account of 
its being an innovation, would be hostile to his own nature and 
fellow men. Such a system of society could not indeed hold 
together, unless a large majority of its members were persons of 
established principles of virtue and of matured knowledge, com- 
bined with habits of activity and industry; who surveying its 
objects and appreciating its advantages, were inflexibly devoted to 
its welfare; and who could regulate their conduct on a perfect 
conviction of the tractableness of mankind in all cases and situa- 
tions, consistently with their knowledge or apprehension of fitness, 
propriety and real utility.* 

*"On the experience of a life devoted to the subject, I hesitate not to say, that the 
members of any community may by degrees be trained to live without idleness, without 
poverty, without crime, and without punishment." 

"Any general character, from the best to the worst, from the most ignorant to the 
most enlightened, may be given to any community, even to the world at large, by the 
application of proper means. " 

"Human nature, save the minute differences which are ever found in all the com- 
pounds of the creation, is one and the same in all; it is without exception universally 
plastic, and by judicious training the infants of any one class in the world may be readily 
formed into men of any other class; even to believe and declare that conduct to be 
right and virtuous, and to die in its defence, which their parents had been taught to 
believe and say was wrong and vicious, and to oppose which, those parents would also 
have willingly sacrificed their lives. " 

"All men may, by judicious and proper laws and training, readily acquire knowledge 
and habits which will enable them, if they be permitted, to produce far more than they 
need for their support and enjoyment; and thus any population in the fertile parts of 
the earth, may be taught t.o live in plenty and in happiness, without the checks of vice 
and misery." 

"Train any population rationally and they will be rational." 

"In those characters which now exhibit crime, the fault is obviously not in the in- 
dividual, but the defect proceeds from the system in which the individual has been 



William Hebert. 341 

Some persons might object that the leisure and security attend- 
ing such a plan of society would be productive of idleness, insub- 
ordination and vice; to which it might be answered that this result 
would depend on the previous education and habits of its members, 
and exclusively of the influence of their new social compact; but 
if there were those who acted so injuriously to themselves and the 
society to which they belonged, the door of withdrawment from it 
would be opened to them, however reluctantly, by a vote of the 
members, through which it would be necessary for such unwise 
persons to pass, before their evil example had had time to be 
extensively productive of mischief, but not before they had proved 
themselves irreclaimable to virtue and social obligation. 

Some persons might also object that a community of the kind 
contemplated would in the course of years by the natural progress 
of population become too numerous for the means of support 
contained within it; to which it is answered, that it is not pretended 
that this plan of society would be wholly without its difficulties, as 
it is probable no human arrangement of society could be. Diffi- 
culty however, like danger and misfortune, is generally greatest in 
apprehension, and regulating our conduct upon right principles, 
we may always trust to events. In a society in which every thing 
was previously established on the simple and natural law of justice 
and reciprocation, and in which every head of a family would be 
equally interested in the adjustment of any difficulty that arose, 
the unanimity of sentiment that would exist in regard to pre- 
vious circumstances would form more than half the conquest of 
every source of embarrassment that occurred; and the one con- 
templated being of very gradual approach, and anticipated by the 
sagacity of the senior associates, would be met in good season, and 
perhaps adjusted to the satisfaction and welfare of the community. 

trained. Withdraw those circumstances which tend to create crime in the human 
character, and crime will not be created." 

"The worst formed disposition .... will not long resist a firm, determined, 
well-directed, persevering kindness. " 

"The character of man is, without a single exception, always formed for him." 

"Man never did, nor is it possible he ever can, form his own character." 

"The kind and degree of misery or happiness experienced by the members of any 
community, depends on the characters which hav.e been formed in the individuals 
which constitute the community. " 

"Hitherto indeed, in all ages, and in all countries, man seems to have blindly con- 
spired against the happiness of man, and to have remained as ignorant of himself as he 
was of the solar system prior to the days of Copernicus and Galileo." 

Vide "Owen's new view of Society. " 

A work which for correctness of views of human nature and society, and benevolence 
of design, is calculated to form the basis of a vast improvement of the condition of 
mankind. 



342 Early Travels in Indiana. 

The minds of men being at ease, and satisfied with the previous 
circumstances of their situation, it is impossible to say what sacri- 
fices would not be offered by individuals for the good of the com- 
munity, upon the occurrence of a natural inconvenience of the 
kind supposed, or how far a generous spirit of accommodation 
might be carried. If men can be found in the wide and tumultuous 
world to sacrifice themselves for their country, surely the associates 
of a happy christian and philosophic community would not be 
found inferior in disinterestedness. The means of support to a 
community of this kind would of course have a limit, and when the 
number of its members approached its maximum, if no other 
remedy could be devised, a resolution might be passed provid- 
ing, under circumstances, for the withdrawment of a certain num- 
ber of its members, or providing for the formation of another com- 
munity in a convenient situation, toward which every facility 
would of course be afforded; but it is impossible to conjecture what 
would be the resources of a society that was animated by a senti- 
ment of unanimity, approaching to that of obligation or friend- 
ship towards each other. There can be little doubt that human 
virtue would shine as brightly in this situation as in any recorded 
in history, and in all probability with this difference, that it would 
be general and not isolated. The condition being new, consequently 
the character of the individuals composing such a community 
would become altogether altered and raised, as is the case in a 
limited degree with respect to the working citizens of the United 
States of America in comparison with those other countries. 
My imagination is warm enough to believe that in a society prop- 
erly constituted and regulated, besides being productive of a secure 
and pleasant subsistence, every scientific pursuit, and every 
elegant amusement might be participated, not only without 
injury, but to the happiness of its members. It would of course 
possess a good library, a well supplied reading room, and appara- 
tus for philosophical research, and secure a liberal education for 
the children. 

I can imagine evening field sports, and sometimes fetes- 
champetres, in which recourse might be had, according to the 
taste of the parties, to various juvenile recreations, in which the 
grave and the elderly might occasionally join without dimunition 
of the respect and veneration due to them. If industry were sup- 
ported by virtue, it could not be rendered too cheerful, never los- 
ing sight of moderation, which is the standard of wisdom and 
enjoyment. There can indeed be no doubt that the Deity is most 



William Hebert. 343 

acceptably worshipped when man is most rationally or morally 
happy, and that he then best answers the object of his creation. 

In the case of ladies and gentlemen becoming members of a 
community of this kind, who might not be used to manual employ- 
ment of any very necessary or useful kinds, and who could not be 
rendered immediately or wholly serviceable to the society, such 
persons might be allowed to avail themselves externally to the 
society of any acquirements they possessed that were not required 
by it, upon their paying into the general fund an equivolent for 
their personal services, or such portion of these as were not afforded 
to the society. If this adjustment could not in all cases be ren- 
dered so precisely exact as some persons might require, it should 
never be forgotten that the community was one of reciprocal bene- 
fit, and that if a little room were left open in regard to the admis- 
sion of some of its members, for the exercise of liberality or benev- 
olence, it would be of no disadvantage to the society, but prob- 
ably contribute to its prosperity, as it would certainly augment its 
respectability and its happiness. All could not be equally useful 
members perhaps at first, and none could contribute more than 
the talents they possessed; but general application and industry 
would soon equalize the services of the members, and a scale of 
compensation to the society on a valuation of time, might be 
enacted more particularly for those members whose talents were 
deemed of inferior value, and whose circumstances required their 
occasional absence. 

Not to anticipate any speedy or general adoption of this plan of 
society, it would yet be a libel equally upon human virtue and 
human genius to say that society can never be modelled locally or 
in small detached portions, upon principles of equity and reciproca- 
tion. It needs but a conviction of its propriety and desirableness 
to be attempted; and perhaps it need but be attempted persever- 
ingly and consistently to be brought to success. It would mater- 
ially lessen the chance of failure if a community were composed 
wholly of persons of one denomination or class of christians, as 
they would thereby possess the strongest incentive to agreement, 
notwithstanding that a religion whose bond is love ought to unite 
all denominations. The plan of society under consideration seems 
particularly applicable to persons of small property and of con- 
tracted connections; to persons who have been unfortunate in 
.business, but who have retained their integrity; and those whose 
businesses may be said to be nearly superseded or dissipated in the 
fluctuations of trade. It is adapted to the relief of those who are 



344 Early Travels in Indiana. 

unable to withstand the excessive competition, the redundancy of 
talent, or the pressure of the times singly; and to those who pre- 
fer tranquillity and security to turmoil and uncertainty. 

Looking at the principle of trade and commerce morally and 
independently of its present general or universal necessity, what is it 
but petty craft from the merchant to the pedler? The taking 
advantage of the ignorance or the unfavorable situation of others 
for the procurement or production of an article, and by the dis- 
posal of it at a profit to ourselves to draw by this means a source 
of subsistence or of wealth at a great expense of every feeling of 
fellowship, of honor and generosity. Is not, philosophically speak- 
ing, the toil of producing. the elements of subsistence and the con- 
veniences of life, sufficient, without the addition of art or craft 
in the dealings of mankind with each other? It has been said of 
old that, "as mortar sticketh between the stones so sticketh fraud 
between buying and selling," and it cannot be supposed that the 
Deity designed that mankind should be petty tricksters upon one 
another rather than equal and just helpmates. Why could not the 
intercourse of mankind be founded on just and reciprocal princi- 
ples, were it not for the monopoly of the earth, and the various 
corrupt circumstances and tyrannies of ancient political society? 
At any rate there is no natural impossibility that mankind should 
at a future period associate in detached portions upon a principle 
of reciprocal justice. They are the extremes of society as it exists 
that chiefly require reconciling, and being brought nearer to each 
other. The wealth and idleness of the one being brought to the 
relief of the poverty and slavery of the other. The extremes of 
society form its greatest deformity and infelicity. Society as it 
exists may be compared to a connected mass of building, the 
greater portion of which exhibits poverty and wretchedness of 
construction, a second portion of which indicates considerable 
convenience and comfort, and the third portion, though occupying 
much less space than either of the others, and especially than the 
first, is composed of erections of such lofty and commanding sizes 
as to cause the whole to appear an unsightly assemblage of irreg- 
ularity and disproportion. There is no continuity of design or 
proportion of parts as yet in society. Society is doubtlessly sus- 
ceptible of vast improvement, and when the laboring classes shall 
have become as well-informed as the middle classes are, great 
alterations it may be hoped will be effected as the simple result 
of discussion, and a more equal balance of possession and enjoy- 
ment established through the whole. It is not to be supposed 



William Hebert. 345 

that the present fortuitous jumble of dependance, and unjust and 
partial possession of the earth, the mere result of conquest and 
subjection, is the 'best possible economy of things. Every link in 
the chain of society as it exists is dependance, which is riveted 
throughout by the fear of destitution. How inferior this, to what 
would be a rational fellowship of industry and possession, to an 
exclusion of want, and of apprehension for the future! Men being 
by nature equal, physically and morally considered, having the 
same wants and the same capacities for enjoyment, wherefore, it 
might be enquired of those who profess to believe in a future state, 
is not the intercourse of mankind founded on principles of recipro- 
cation and justice, analagous to their nature and destination? 
It is not to be believed that the Deity can view with perfect com- 
placency a state of things that sets a small portion of mankind at 
an immense distance from the majority; that gives to a com- 
paratively few individuals almost boundless means of gratifica- 
tion, by which the mass are impoverished; whilst many can scarcely 
obtain the elements of subsistence; and numbers are impressed 
into the service of vice till they become as depraved as human 
nature will admit, inflicting on the whole body of society, with a 
knowledge of their crimes, a portion of their infelicity. Nine 
tenths of the miseries and the crimes of mankind result from this 
unequal and unjust state of things. If injustice and its conse- 
quent evils exist extensively in society, and human reason can 
devise the means of their correction or material abatement, where- 
fore should not this be attempted, as far as it is seen and acknowl- 
edged, upon the eternal bases of equity and reciprocation? The 
constant pursuit of individual gain is at variance with the duties 
and affections of man, considered as a social and generous being. 
The opulent dealer who extracts a large profit from the poor man; 
the wealthy manufacturer who holds the mechanic to his machin- 
ery at a price just commensurate with his individual subsistence, 
to say nothing of that of his wretched family; and the rich landed 
proprietor who retains those who till his fields in a state of penury 
and pauperism, are excrescences on God's earth, which he gave to 
all mankind. Individual condition in humble life in Europe, and 
especially in Great Britain, has constantly to withstand what 
is to it the two-fold evils of advancing machinery and increasing 
population, rendering it daily more precarious and more scanty. 
Witness the frequency and increasing extent of the combinations 
and strikings of the operative classes. And what could be more 
rational and honorable than an attempt to construct society, 



346 Early Travels in Indiana. 

though locally and upon a small scale, upon a plan of common prop- 
erty and benefit, aloof from the petty concealments and intric- 
acies, the selfishness, the jealousies, the proverbial absence of 
friendship, the casualties and opposing interests of ordinary com- 
mercial life, which in proportion to its success would be produc- 
tive of peace, goodwill, security and contentment. Such a plan of 
society would tend most materially and directly to soften the pas- 
sions, and consequently to encrease the enjoyment of life; would 
remove the evils of dependence, also those vast sources of distress 
insolvency and bankruptcy and family dissensions arising from the 
unequal distribution of property; and would have a powerful 
tendency to check the ravages of insanity and suicide, which more 
frequently result from pecuniary embarrassment than any other 
cause. As society exists, the journeyman shoe maker or taylor 
has infinitely the advantage of the man of education and refine- 
ment, who through misfortune is reduced to poverty; and the 
cook or housemaid has infinitely the advantage of her mistress, 
if the latter is through any calamity brought to indigence. How 
many respectable females are rendered pennyless through the 
commercial misfortune, imprudence, or dissipation of male rela- 
tives, to whom their property was entrusted! And how many men 
are from the fluctuations and vicissitudes of the commercial world 
reduced to a situation in comparison with which that of the 
journeyman artisan in employment is enviable! The distress of 
the humble poor is frequently obvious to the sight, besides being 
rendered so to the ear, but the difficulties and sufferings experi- 
enced in middle and genteel life are silent and unseen. Misfor- 
tune however may be said to be proportionate to the sensi- 
bility of the unfortunate; and the utmost splendour of com- 
mercial life is but splendid dependance, which is far inferior in 
real dignity to moderate competence or self-subsistence, however 
humble. That which is wanting to society is a foundation in equity 
to^which all might appeal, and from which all might derive sup- 
port by the performance of an equitable quantity of labour. As 
society exists, the condition of every individual not born to 
hereditary property is perfectly fortuitous. Cannot this defect 
be remedied? Shall it never be remedied? The statesman says 
no; the philanthropist, that it ought to be, if it be practicable. 
As society exists mankind subsists by individual ingenuity and 
address, and by the advantages which one individual obtains 
over another by whatever means, instead of associating upon a 
principle of natural equity befitting rational beings, which would 



William Hebert. 347 

put vicissitude and want and distress at defiance. If Christendom 
were truly christian, there would exist this spirit of justice and of 
concord. The christian world however will never fully deserve 
that name until society be modelled upon and governed by its 
precepts, to the neglect or non-effectiveness of civil and military 
government, to which latter powers Christianity has hitherto been 
considered merely as an adjunct, and not as that divine code of 
laws which should supersede all others that are opposed to it, as 
the products only of human weakness or depravity. When the 
christian world becomes really christian, armies will cease to be 
marshalled to settle its disputes, to check the progress of knowledge 
or crush its efforts of improvement. Literature will not be cur- 
tailed and fashioned by censorships, like trees by the shears of a 
whimsical gardener. A congress of wise and good men from all its 
parts, (not of belted chieftains,) will settle the first in peace and 
welcome and foster the last. 

Human nature being not merely ductile, but its ductility being 
almost without limit, the basis of an improved system of society 
would be the effect of a general perception of error in the common 
estimation of wealth and power. True wealth is self-enjoyment; 
true power, the command over one's-self; and no perception of 
individual property and power as they exist, (which generally 
afflict by the weight of anxiety they entail,) could equal the enjoy- 
ment that would result from the consciousness of being the free 
and equal member of an equitably constituted society,, which 
would be proportionably relieved of vice and the numerous infelici- 
ties attending the existing intercourse of mankind. History is 
decidedly hostile to the opinion that individual enjoyment is the 
general concomitant of power, notwithstanding that the love, 
and consequent pursuit of power is the general foible of mankind. 
"Uneasy lies the head that wears a crown," and arduous are its 
duties if faithfully and honourably performed. The eminences of 
power and wealth are doubtlessly like other objects of human 
pursuit that have merely personal gratification or aggrandize- 
ment for their end, being more attractive and promising at a 
distance than satisfactory or pleasurable in the possession. A 
period may indeed arrive when the resources of ingenuity in manu- 
factures and commerce may fail to such an extent as to render an 
adjustment of the condition of mankind locally or nationally, 
upon principles of equity imperiously necessary, as those resources 
have long failed to the purpose of general subsistence without the 
vast aid of the poor laws, those wretched supports of indigence 



348 Early Travels in Indiana. 

which just enable it to limp along or to prolong its sufferings. A 
period may arrive when from the increased numbers of mankind 
manual labor shall of necessity supersede the use of machinery, as 
the latter is now permitted or rather stimulated for purposes of 
revenue and commerce to operate to the injury and deprivation of 
millions. When manufactures may be so diffused, improved and 
simplified in their production throughout the commercial world as 
to render the shiftings and refinements of commercial treaties, 
and of import and of export regulations, of little or no avail; 
when national independence or self-subsistence shall be deemed 
the standard of security and respectability; and when human 
knowledge may have attained that maturity of growth as no longer 
to tolerate the existing crudities of the commercial and political 
world. That human society is in a state of great immaturity is 
evident, or mankind would not be subject to all the evils atten- 
dant on the vicissitudes and fluctuations of the political and com- 
mercial world. Nor would the vast majority of mankind be miser- 
ably dependent on the minority. This cannot exist when the 
former shall be as well informed as the latter, when knowledge shall 
shed its rays like the meridian sun. It does not indeed exist in 
the United States of America which seem destined to reform both 
the political and social system of Europe. Nearly the whole con- 
tinent of America now invites to a better order of things. Its 
desert regions from nearly one end of it to the other inviting the 
philosopher and the philanthropist to aim at a better construc- 
tion of human society; a construction less opposed to the equality 
of natural right and of natural wants, and better adapted to 
moral improvement and social enjoyment. 

In regard to the different degrees of enjoyment experienced in 
two situations of the established form of society, it may be en- 
quired which generally appear to possess the greatest share of 
enjoyment, those persons who are immersed in business to the 
whole extent of their property, or those whose competence is 
ascertained, and who live a retired life? I imagine that in nine- 
teen cases out of twenty, the latter situation is by far the pref- 
erable one, and that most persons would allow this. If so, then 
would that be the best system of society that should the most 
nearly assimilate to this preferable situation, consistently with the 
welfare of all its members. If man be a social being, society should 
be universally a source of support, of improvement and happiness, 
instead of being as it is in innumerable cases, a source of destitu- 
tion, of depravity, and consequent misery; and that would be the 



William Hebert. 349 

best plan of society that was the most equal and reciprocal, and 
consequently the most rational and virtuous. It has however 
been the lamentable conduct of statesmen, (though in some cases 
no doubt unintentionally) to degrade and brutalize human nature 
to the utmost, to render it familiar with privation and suffering, 
and every moral corruption. If revenue have been collected 
and armies kept on foot, private condition with the artisan and the 
labourer has been too generally a matter of little moment. A cer- 
tain extent of destitution has indeed been considered by eminent 
statesmen as an essential circumstance of political government, 
seeing that without that source of impressment into its service its 
strongest arm of power could not be maintained. But if society be 
a good in its natural tendency, it may be enquired, whether it be 
sufficiently perfect; whether it cannot be rendered more perfect, 
more equitable, and consequently less productive of misery? 
If society be susceptible of improvement upon natural and equit- 
able principles, then would that be the preferable system of inter- 
course in which the selfish, the violent, and malignant passions 
would be least liable to be agitated; in which the turmoil of pecuni- 
ary and political pursuits would be quashed; in which the elation 
and depression of mind atteneling the vicissitudes of fortune would 
be subdued into a moderate and even pleasurable quantity of 
beneficial employment; in which the acquisition of knowledge, 
and the various enjoyments of society would have the freest 
scope; in which the sacred tie of marriage would be allowed to take 
place at suitable ages unobstructed by considerations of property 
and the frequent averice of parents; in which the most deplorable 
circumstances of society as it exists would not have place; and in 
which the education of youth would all form primary and essen- 
tial objects of the care of its members. If there be reason in this, 
both virtue and humanity bid us hope that a gradual improvement 
in society, commensurate with the progress of knowledge and of 
the true economy of life, may take place. Nothing further is 
wished or contemplated, as it would not be reasonable to set a 
man or a number of men to grope for a treasure in the dark, or to 
make experiments that might result in their injury or destruction. 
But if the foregoing observations are warranted by truth and the 
real nature of things, then may one day the restless votaries of 
ambition and of wealth in Europe borrow valuable instruction 
from the Societies of Harmonians and Friends in America, or from 
societies constituted upon similar but improved and equitable 
principles, adapted to all the purposes of moral and refined society 



350 Early Travels in Indiana. 

and every human relationship. All persons of habits of business 
must be sensible that it is a desirable thing to abridge the hours 
devoted to it within a space to allow of a due attention to domes- 
tic concerns, to personal comfort, to the instruction of children, to 
reading, to scientific pursuit, recreation and the enjoyment of 
society, all which objects are greatly obstructed by the enormous 
portion of time devoted by tradesmen to their businesses in order 
to support their numerous responsibilities; and journeymen, 
artisans and labourers in employment have no time whatever for 
these desirable and necessary objects, except on Sundays; all 
which circumstances however would be most materially and bene- 
ficially attained upon the equitable and rational plan of society 
contemplated, which would also as naturally tend to check the 
selfish and sordid affections as the existing form of society con- 
tributes to excite them. What could be more proper than for 
various artisans and' agriculturists after the work of the day was 
over, and they had had time to refresh themselves at home, and 
to attend to various matters, to meet as inclination prompted in a 
reading room or library, for the purpose of reading or conversa- 
tion on subjects of physical science or any other more interesting 
to them, instead of living in ignorance and poverty, neglecting 
their families from necessity, and from bad habits and associa- 
tions, wasting their little leisure time, their money and health at 
public houses? The plan of society under consideration is simply 
an extensive and equitable partnership in all the essentials of 
life, or a complete and perfect Benefit Society, based in the equal 
or proportionate stake of all its members, in which the social feel- 
ings would be more freely and constantly exercised than in the 
present form of society. Though it be allowed that the present 
state of society in Europe is commensurate with its progress in 
knowledge, and that it is a great amelioration of that of the 
Gothic or Feudal ages, it does not follow that a still better order 
of things shall not take place when that highest of all the sciences, 
the science of human life in society, shall be better understood and 
more justly appreciated in its enjoyments and object. The pres- 
ent form of society in Europe is merely a modification or ameliora- 
tion of Feudalism, be that modification or amelioration great or 
little, and the problem for the philosopher and the philanthropist of 
the present day is, whether society be susceptible of a basis and 
super-structure in equity, consistently with the natural equality 
and dignity of mankind. 

If then reason, equity and humanity be allied against ancient 



William Hebert. 351 

political society with all its tyrannies and usurpations, the ques- 
tion is whether the former shall always be overborne by the crude 
assemblage of circumstances derived from the infancy and 
pristine ignorance of mankind; or whether that form of society or 
settling of things which conquest or brute force, aided by super- 
stition, impressed on the weakness and ignorance of mankind, 
shall always prevail over that which reason would dictate, which 
equity and humanity demand, or which a council of philosophic 
friends of mankind would prescribe, acting upon the present or 
future knowledge of mankind? Shall improvements and discov- 
eries be constantly going forward in physics, and none be made in 
society, or the art of living in society? And notwithstanding that 
prejudiced persons are apt to scoff at all plans for the ameliora- 
tion of the condition of mankind as merely visionary or Utopian 
schemes, it is consolatory to reflect, that the opposition alluded 
to is, in some instances, no purer in its source than was that of the 
Roman clergy against the reforming doctrines of Erasmus and 
Luther; and no more founded in nature or truth than that of the 
Spanish nobles against the geographical principles of Christopher 
Columbus. 

It may remain for the writer of the foregoing to assure his 
readers that no part of it is intended in any manner to wound the 
feelings of individuals of any class or station of life whatever. 
Individual excellence is to be found in every rank and walk of 
life, and is perfectly compatible with great imperfection in the 
frame of government and that of society generally, which imper- 
fection is deducible from the circumstances of their origin and prog- 
ress. It is incumbent on the privileged orders of society only to 
bear their ascendency with meekness and liberality, it not being 
the fault of any individual belonging to them that he was born to 
a title not known in moral estimation, or to the possession of 
thousands of acres of the earth under a system of things which 
denies to the vast majority a square foot. Although the iron 
sword of an ancestor or the lavish gift of a conqueror includes but a 
slender moral title to the possession of an estate which would afford 
thousands of fellow-beings subsistence, it is not to be expected 
that the hereditary possessors of the earth will yield their mo- 
nopoly of it until they shall all be presented with what they may 
deem an equivalent in a greater degree of moral and social happi- 
ness, resulting from equity being established as the foundation of 
society. The privileged orders of the present generation and those 
for some ages past are altogether innocent of the monstrous dis- 



352 Early Travels in Indiana. 

parity of circumstances deducible from conquest and priestcraft 
acting upon the ignorance and weakness of mankind. The error or 
crime of the case is attributable only to the system, and not to any 
class of individuals who are the subjects of it. It is for the present 
generation only to take care that the "march of sound knowledge" 
be facilitated to the utmost. That improvement be not confined to 
physical science merely; but that it be admitted to modify, or 
remodel society, as the pressure of political circumstances on indi- 
vidual condition, or more correct views of human nature or of 
the economy of life may suggest. 

The writer when in Philadelphia, in June, 1823, had put into his hand by an ac- 
quaintance, (an opulant farmer and grazier from the west of England, who was then 
seeking an establishment for himself and an extensive connection in the United States), 
a pamphlet written by a Mr. Brayshaw from Scotland, who had then recently arrived 
in America for the purpose of making a tour of the western states, with the view to 
ascertain a situation for the establishment of a society upon the principle of an equit- 
able participation of labour and capital, from which the following is an extract: 

"According to the present form or construction of society, the interest of every 
individual is placed in opposition to the interests of other individuals, and in opposi- 
tion to the interests of society at large. In my own opinion, by carefully tracing effects 
to their causes, I shall be able to prove that this opposition of interests is the funda- 
mental cause of the greatest part of the evils which now afflict or ever have afflicted 
the human species; and I think if I succeed in this point, I shall be warranted in con- 
cluding that if it be possible to give such a construction to human society as shall have 
the effect of uniting the common interests of mankind, by making the interest of the 
whole the interest of every individual, and the interest of every individual the interest 
of the whole body, such a state of things would remove the causes of the evil, and banish 
the greatest part of the miseries which at present afflict mankind." 



William Hebert. 353 

A 
SKETCH 

for the formation of a 

SOCIETY OF MUTUAL CO-OPERATION 

and 

COMMUNITY of PROPERTY, 

To be composed of tradesmen, farmers, clerks, mechanics, 
&c. intended to be established in the state of New York. 



Art. 1. It is proposed that the Society shall in the first 
instance consist of about a hundred families, exclusively of single 
members. 

2. That the capital to be introduced by every adult 
male member be not less when arrived in America and at the set- 
tlement, than £11. 5s. (50 dollars,) nor more than £900. (4000 
dollars.) 

3. That the whole of the property of the Society be 
divided into shares, and that a share be equal to the smallest sub- 
scription, viz. £11. 5s. 

4. That the less opulent members shall have the oppor- 
tunity by their industry of increasing their property in the society 
in proportion to that of the other members, and that an equitable 
adjustment of the value of time be made for the whole of the 
members. 

5. That the affairs of the Society be conducted by a 
rotary committee, or board of management, of all its members in 
succession, which committee or board of management to be chosen 
monthly, quarterly, or half yearly. To consist of mem- 
bers. 

6. That the capital of the Society, after the purchase of 
the land, the expense of the first clearing, fencing and building, 

(This outline of a self-subsistent community was made by the author of the fore- 
going pages at the suggestion of a friend from New York, where a few gentlemen con- 
templated the formation of a society of this kind, toward which it was proposed that 
every one designing to become a member should contribute a plan or certain articles; 
since which time, and within a few days, he has been fortunate enough to meet with Mr. 
Owen's "AMERICAN DISCOURSES, &c." and the "ARTICLES OF AGREEMENT 
OF THE LONDON CO-OPERATIVE SOCIETY," in which publications the prin- 
ciples of this plan of society are detailed, and its advantages and general attractive- 
ness rendered apparent.) 

T— 23 



354 Early Travels in Indiana. 

(this to be done by natives) the purchase of cattle and other live 
stock, implements, machinery, &c, be vested in the United States 
Bank, in the names of all the members of the Society. 

7. That every male member of the Society shall engage 
to employ himself in any and every manner that shall at any 
time be determined by the existing board of management; that 
there shall be no exclusive employments; and that every male 
member be eligible to every employment or office to which he is 
nominated by the managing board or committee for the time being, 
or by the election of not less than two-thirds of the members of the 
Society. 

8. That it is a radical principle of this society that 
labour of every necessary or useful description is honourable; 
that true respectability consists in integrity of character and 
utility of conduct. That what must be done by some may be 
done by all. That idleness, as opposed to usefulness and to hon- 
esty is despicable, and to be abhorred. 

9. That the constitution of this society be enacted in 
every article by at least three-fourths of all the members, and 
that not less than three-fourths of all the members be at all times 
competent to alter or amend it. 

10. That it shall be allowable for any number of the 
members to practice or follow any trade or calling required for the 
benefit of the society; and that the artisans of any particular trade 
do instruct as many of the other members as may be desired by the 
existing board of management; in return for which the members so 
teaching, will themselves receive instruction as the wants or cir- 
cumstances of the society require; reciprocal service for the bene- 
fit of the whole being the principle of action throughout the com- 
munity. In some cases the thanks of the society may be voted 
to an individual who evinces a particular readiness, activity, or 
perseverance in this respect. 

11. That the value of time devoted to the concerns of the 
society in whatever trade, calling, or office, be considered uniform 
and equal amongst all its male members; and that the average 
length of a day's work required by the society, exclusively of time 
for meals or refreshment, throughout the year be eight hours, 
excepting on particular emergencies when it may be extended to 
any length required. That it be considered at a subsequent period 
of the establishment whether the term of eight hours' labour per 
day may not be reduced to six. 

12. That every male member do learn to practice some 



William Hebert. 355 

one necessary or useful trade or calling, in addition to the per- 
formance of his duty as an agriculturist or other labourer; that 
domestic manufactures in as great a variety as possible may be 
constantly going forward. 

13. That no exception whatever shall be taken, or objec- 
tion made, on account of the religious persuasions or opinions of 
any member of this society. That the expression of opinion be as 
free as air. That moral character be solely looked to, this being 
indispensable to the welfare and happiness of the society collec- 
tively and individually. 

14. That the wives and children of members be allowed 
to work at any business or calling that they may be desirous of, at 
regulated prices and on regulated terms. That the wives of mem- 
bers have the right of voting and of expressing their opinions at all 
general meetings of the society, and that the females elect each 
other to all the departments of female employment of the society. 

15. That the children of the members be educated upon 
the Lancastrian plan, and that their education be rendered as 
liberal and philosophic as possible; to the exclusion however of the 
retarding and profitless burthen of the dead languages. That 
every arrangement be made to facilitate the society, recreation, 
and instruction of the infant children of the members. 

16. That the principles of the society be in the strict- 
est sense equal and democratic; that equity and wisdom, and not 
property may govern. That to this end, as the interest of the 
proprietor of one share will be equal to that of the proprietor of 
five or ten, considered as the whole of their vested property respec- 
tively, and in a.regard to the welfare of their families in the society, 
that the rights of the members be in all respects equal, that all 
votes be equal, and that no member have more than one vote upon 
any question or occasion whatever. 

17. That all disputes, misunderstandings, or dissatisfac- 
tion arising between members, be settled by arbitration, the arbi- 
trators to be chosen by ballott, either from the existing board of 
management or from the members in general. 

18. That the society have the power of expelling any 
member for continued idleness, misconduct, or immorality, by a 
vote of not less than three-fourths of the whole of the members; 
and that the property of such individual be valued and paid to him 
at the time of his quitting the society. 

19. That no member of the society shall go to law with, 
or sue another member for debt, or upon any account whatever; 



356 Early Travels in Indiana. 

the doing which, shall be deemed on the part of the individual an 
act of self-expulsion from this society, which, if necessary, shall 
maintain the defendant's cause. 

20. That the society, collectively, may purchase the 
property of any member that may be desirous of withdrawing from 
it, but that members can not sell or transfer their shares to each 
other, the whole of the property, with the exception of household 
furniture, clothing, books, plate, &c, being the property of the 
society. That the property in shares of every member being vested 
in the society, be disposable only by the society at a general meet- 
ing; and that a majority of not less than two-thirds of the whole 
of the members be requisite in all cases of the sale of shares. This 
restriction is enacted solely to prevent partial interests and obli- 
gations; the servitude of the less opulent or poorer members upon 
the others; and all doubtfulness, perplexity, or confusion in respect 
to immoveable property, and its consequent disputes. 

21. That as a true and equal economy should govern 
every circumstance of the society, it be enacted, that no more 
horses or cattle shall be kept by the society than are necessary or 
useful. That no member shall keep any horse, cow, sheep or pigs 
for his private use without making a fair allowance to the society 
for such part of their keep as is derived from the society's prop- 
erty. 

22. That the horses, cattle, sheep, pigs, fowls, ducks, 
geese, &c, the property of the society, be equitably used and 
participated by all the members; and every article of consumption, 
when necessary, rated at the time's market price, and every family 
debited with the quantity or amount of its demands or consump- 
tion; which debit, together with that on account of wearing ap- 
parel, &c, be regularly placed against the amount of its earnings, 
and the balance placed to the account of capital in the society's 
stock of every family once in every year. 

23. That regular and correct accounts be kept of the 
society's property, and of all its transactions, both internal and 
external. 

24. That convenient stores be kept of all the society's 
property for disposal to its members, or for sale to the public; and 
that the primitive and fair principle of barter upon a valuation by 
the quantity of time and labour employed in production, be acted 
upon to the utmost extent, both within, and without the society. 

25. That every member shall devote his time as regu- 



Willian Hebert. 357 

lated by the society to its concerns and interests, and be resident 
on its land. 

26. That after the daily employment of eight hours in 
the service of the society, every member be wholly at his own dis- 
posal, and may employ himself for the remainder of his time in any 
manner that his inclination may prompt. That the products of 
the private and extra industry of the members be offered to the 
society at fair prices, and if purchased by it, that the parties be 
credited by the amount, or should the society not purchase such 
produce of the extra industry of its members, that the latter be at 
liberty, after having offered it to the society, to dispose of it out of 
the society for their own private benefit. 

27. That any member wishing to quit the society may at 
Christmas in each year give written notice of such wish, upon 
receiving which, the society must within a month after, make an 
election of either purchasing the share in the society's stock of 
such individual and family, or of accepting a substitute for him, 
subject in either case to the approval of not less than two-thirds of 
the whole of the members. 

28. That a law be enacted to settle and determine the 
mode in which the widows and children of deceased members shall 
succeed to their property and be retained in the society, render- 
ing to the widows and children of worthy members the utmost pro- 
tection, sympathy and kindness; as also the manner of payment to 
such widows and children as may be desirous of withdrawing from 
the society. 

29. That a piece of ground be enclosed and kept sacred as 
a burial ground, for such of the members as may prefer being 
interred within the society's land. That grave stones be erected, 
and the ground kept in the utmost order. That all funerals be 
performed by the society and without expense to the afflicted 
family. 

30. That every member of the society do occupy for 
himself and family in permanency, a cottage and garden, com- 
prised within about a quarter of an acre of ground. That the cot- 
tages of the society be built detached, (or two together, if deemed 
preferable,) all of the same size, and upon the same plan, conven- 
ient for a family. 

31. That the cottages of the society be built so as to 
form a spacious square, open at the angles, and open also in the 
centre of each side, of sufficient width to form streets, in order to 
provide for the increase of its members without crowding the 



358 Early Travels in Indiana. 

square. That the square forming the village have a circular enclos- 
ure within it, in the centre of which, to be erected with all possible 
neatness, a Building for Public Worship, and the various purposes 
of the society. That the enclosure be laid out into walks, planted 
with fruit and other trees, furnished with benches, and kept with 
all the neatness of a London square. The enclosure to serve as a 
play-ground for the children, and for the evening walks and 
recreations of the members. That the storehouses, granaries, 
factories, workshops, tannery, brewhouse, barns, stables, cattle- 
sheds, stack yards, &c, &c, be arranged in the outer square 
beyond the gardens of the village, and having a good road all 
round between these and the front of those buildings and appur- 
tenances; which road to be connected with the inner square by 
streets formed from the angles of both squares, and others from 
the centre of the sides of each. It is presumed that this plan would 
embrace contiguity and general convenience, at the same time 
that offensiveness of all kinds would be removed to a desirable 
distance. It would perhaps be desirable that the central build- 
ing were divided on the ground floor into two compartments, and 
that one of these were exclusively appropriated to religious pur- 
poses, the different denominations into which the society might 
divide itself, occupying it alternately, or by a wise expansion of 
christian fellowship, or of a sentiment of unanimity, resolve to 
know no differences of sect, but to use it in common, to read the 
scriptures in common, and to allow every reader or officiating 
member to expound, and to express his opinions, without con- 
troversy. An upper spacious room might be made to answer the 
purpose of a library, a reading, lecture, and school room; and be 
used for the evening amusement of the members. A small tower 
furnished with a clock with four faces and a bell, would be a desir- 
able addition to the village Hall, and if the roof or tower were 
railed round it would form a pleasant observatory. 

32. That no member be admitted into, or retained in the 
society in the separate or exclusive character of a minister of the 
gospel. That this office be free to all the members, and that it con- 
fer no privileges whatever. 

33. That the growth of the most useful kinds of roots 
and vegetables be as much an object with the society as the cul- 
tivation of grain, by which the time and labour of the members 
in raising vegetables in their gardens will be materially lessened, 
and as by this means a more abundant supply of food for the cat- 
tle and live stock will be provided, particularly for winter use. 



William Hebert. 359 

That the cultivation of fruit trees be also an object of attention 
with the society. 

34. That the society's stock be valued, and all accounts 
appertaining to the society and to individuals be settled and 
balanced once in every year, and all surplus capital invested in the 
stock of the United States Bank in the names of all the members. 

35. That in order to adopt and preserve the best 
economy in the society, agricultural, manufacturing and domestic, 
a friendly correspondence be maintained with all other similar 
communities as far as circumstances will allow, and that a deputa- 
tion of two members be occasionally made to visit Harmony or 
any other community, for the purpose of obtaining any particular 
information that the society may require. 

The author of the foregoing sketch would be permitted to explain that he does not 
suppose that a society formed upon its principles would constitute a perfect ELYSIUM, 
he being fully aware that troubles, vexation and imperfection rest upon every thing 
human; but he would express it as his decided opinion that a society of honorable 
individuals, of regular business habits, each having the welfare of his family and that 
of the society at heart, could not fail of being productive of immense security, comfort 
and advantage to its members. The compact woidd be simply an equitable partner- 
ship in all the essentials of life and means of happiness. The foregoing is designed 
merely as an outline to be corrected and perfected by the joint labour of the associates 
and the results of experience. 



From Letters of William Pelham, written in 1825 and 1826. 

These letters were written by William Pelham to his son, William Creese 
Pelham of Zanesville, Ohio, in 1825 and 1826. The original letters are in 
the possession of the children of the late Louis Pelham at New Harmony, 
Indiana. The letters describe William Pelham's journey down the Ohio, 
stopping at Maysville, Cincinnati, Louisville and Mt. Vernon, with the ar- 
rival at New Harmony, where " a new society was about to be formed." 
They tell of the appearance of the town and mention some of the people 
gathering there, express unbounded enthusiasm for Robert Owen and his 
plans for improving the condition of society and describes many of the pleas- 
ures and hardships and daily life experienced during some months of the pre- 
liminary Society. 

William Pelham was born in Williamsburg, Virginia, in 1759, a younger 
son of Peter Pelham and Ann Creese of Boston, and grand-son of Peter Pel- 
ham, of the Pelhams of Chichester, Sussex, England > who was the first 
mezzotint engraver in America. The family of this elder Pelham is described 
in the life of John Singleton Copley, the artist, whose mother married Mr. 
Pelham, as a household of unusual culture and congeniality, and the only one 
in New England at that time where painting and engraving were the pre- 
dominant pursuits. 

William Pelham when just grown to manhood, was for three years a 
surgeon in the American Revolution, the older brother whom he met at Mays- 
ville being Maj. Gen. Charles Pelham of Virginia. From his journals and 
account books, he seems to have taken passage more than once for England 
and at one time to have spent several years there. In a letter written in 
French, dated London, 1793, he says that the climate of London would 
break down the constitution of a man of iron and that he will return to his 
native land as it does not take an iron constitution to live in the climate of 
Virginia. 

He evidently left England determined to change his profession as well as 
climate for about the year 1800 he opened a book shop and publishing house 
in Boston, selling out in 1811 and removing to Newark, New Jersey, and the 
following year to Philadelphia. At this time his young son, William Creese 
Pelham, was a pupil in the Neef school at the Falls of the Schuylkill and from 
this time a close friendship with the Neef family continued through their 
lives. 

Having secured some land in Ohio through the Virginia Grant of 1812, 
William Pelham brought his family west in 1816 and began editing the Ohio 
Republic at Zanesville. In 1818 he was appointed postmaster and these 
pursuits he continued until he resigned to come to New Harmony in 1825. 

Mr. Pelham was a scholarly man, a deep thinker, delicate in mind and 
constitution, and his long life as a servant of the public had wearied him of 
the grasping ways of the world and Robert Owen's communistic plans 
seemed to him a Utopia of peace for his declining years. So after much 
reading and some correspondence 1 relative to the matter, he came to New 



1. A letter from William Owen, son of Robert Owen, will be found following the 
Pelham letters. 

(360) 



William Pelham. 361 

Harmony as described in these letters. From the letters we learn he found 
occupation at once in the accounting department of the store and when the 
Gazette was published he became one of the first editors. His son joined 
him in the spring of 1826 and the following year William Pelham purchased 
a farm near Mt. Vernon and died very suddenly at his home there on Feb- 
ruary third, 1827. He passed away just two months before the final dissolu- 
tion of the society which had filled his last years with a great enthusiasm 
and interest. 

Caroline Creese Pelham. 



Opposite Buffington's Island, 

Ohio River, Monday, 
1st Aug., 1825, 

3 o'clock, P. M. 
My Dear Son : — 

I have concluded to commence a letter at this place which, 
you will probably receive from Cincinnatti. It would give you 
pleasure to see how commodiously I am situated on board this 
boat. She is 70 or 75 feet long abt. 9 feet wide, very deeply laden 
with flour and destined to Florence in Alabama — navigated by 
six men beside the Capt., Absalom Boyd, who is a mild, quiet 
character, — in fact I have experienced nothing but civility and 
kindness from all on board. The following rude sketch will give 
you some idea of my local position in the vessel, premising that 
at Point Harmar I had a box or bunk made 6f. by 4§ to contain 
the whole of my bed & bedding [Sketch omitted.] 

The right side is boarded up, & the whole covered with a sub- 
stantial roof except the bow & stern. On the roof stands the 
caboose & the rowers here exercise themselves with 2 and some- 
times 4 sweeps which they ply pretty constantly. At the foot of 
my bunk is an opening in the side of the vessel about 4 by 5 feet, 
closed at night by 2 folding shutters. 

I am now sitting on the foot of my bed, my feet resting on a 
footboard placed for my convenience by one of my ship-mates. 
As my bunk is placed on 2 tier of barrels there is abundant space 
between my head & the roof of the boat. Capt. Boyd and myself 
lodge together, my bed being sufficiently large for both. 

In the article of diet I do not fare so well, as I cannot relish the 
provision cooked for the crew; & have therefore lived almost 
entirely on tea & coffee & cheese. Give my kind compliments to 
Mrs. Mills and tell her that her friendly piece of cake formed 
almost the whole of my support from Zanesville to Marietta. 

I wrote you a few lines from Marietta, which you will not 



362 Early Travels in Indiana. 

receive till Saturday next, (Aug. 6). On carrying it to the P. O. 
I met with Arius Nye, who informed me that Mr. Morris (whom 
I have not seen) — is no longer P. M. The fact is, he has been 
Hamproned out of the office by Squire Buell who contrived to 
convince the P. M. G. [Postmaster General] that he was a fitter 
person to succeeed Willcox than Morris. — This is the individual 
system in perfection. 

This (Buffington's) — Island is always a troublesome place when 
the water is low. At some future time I will give you a minute 
account of the hardship, the labor & fatigue — & the immense, 
extravagant waste of human strength in navigating this river, 
&c &c. We have a strong active crew, and they make abundant 
use of the terms, God — Jesus Christ — Hell-fire & Damnation &c 
&c. &c, but in a manner somewhat different from the reverend 
clergy and certainly not with so much worldy profit. The most 
embarrassing place will be Letart's falls. If anything extraor- 
dinary occurs there I will note it, I am greatly at a loss for my 
Ohio Pilot which unfortunately I left behind, and there is nothing 
of the sort on board this vessel. I have only Melish's small map 
of Ohio & Indiana. 

I feel greatly indebted to Joel Frazey for his kindness; he left 
me at N. Ayers Salt works — after a delightful ride. Remember 
me kindly to him. 

Saturday Aug. 5, 11 o'clock A. M. We have just passed 
Portsmouth & Alexandria at the mouth of the Scioto — the former 
a neat, and even handsome little town — the latter consisting of 
4 or 5 log-houses. We are still abt. 50 miles fr. Maysville, which 
we shall probably not reach till Monday, for we do not move 
faster than about 28 or 30 miles a day, & lie by every night. I am 
told, however, that we shall now get forward much faster than we 
have done while embarrassed with frequent bars, shoals & ripples. 
The Capt. & others on board calculate that we shall arrive at Mt. 
Vernon about the 17th or 18th of this month. By that time, I 
foresee, that I shall require 5 or 6 days rest on land, in some quiet 
lodging house during which I can refit, & get my clothes and blank- 
ets washed. I shall write to you immediately on reaching Mt. 
Vernon. In the meantime give my most affectionate love to 
Mary and tell her that her ample provision of tea, coffee, and 
sugar, will probably last me to the point of my destination. — 
Present me also my most kindly & affectionately to Mr. Peters. 
I have seen no newspaper from any place since I left Z. [Zanesville] 
and you would be surprised if you could really estimate the 



William Pelham. 363 

indifference I feel about general or local politics and the conten- 
tions of opposite parties. I feel once more free from all this tur- 
moil & shall never engage in it again, whether I return or not. 
Present my kind respects to Mr. John Peters and Michael — to 
Mr. Sheward & wife & in general to all friends who may think me 
worthy of their enquiries. 

After leaving Maysville I shall make some additions to this 
letter and then put into the P. 0. at Cincinnati. — Our old friend 
Jim Marshall (who is one of the hired hands) has just brought me 
half of a fine, tho small water-melon. I have received much 
kindness from him. 

The steam boat Lawrence, worked by 4 horses without steam, 
(moving in a circle on her deck) has just passed us on her way up 
the river. 

Direct the Ohio Repub. to W. Pelham, New Harmony, Ind. — 
on the paper itself — put it in a wrapper in the usual manner & 
direct the cover to Postmaster New Harmony, Ind. Do not 
forget to remember me kindly to Messrs. Keightley & Harris & 
Joel Frezey— & Mr. Mills &c. &c. 

Monday 8th Aug. Yesterday afternoon, I had the inexpress- 
able happiness of an affecting and joyful meeting with my brother 
and sister, after a separation of 39 years and 1 month. At first 
sight, he did not know me, but immediately recollected me on a 
nearer approach and for my part, I think I should have recog- 
nized him if I had met him in Zanesville — tho' we are both much 
altered by time. He has an interesting family — his 4 daughters 
and 2 sons were introduced to me. Chas. & Wm. are gone to 
Arkansas. Peter & Atkinson also absent — , the former at his 
station in Florida — the latter in Philad. My stay was neces- 
sarily short — & in the evening we passed by Maysville — but 
the evening was too far advanced for me to gain a distinct view 
of it. We are now, 11.30 A. M. 22 miles distant from Maysville. 
My brother's daus. accompanied me to the boat which lay \ mile 
from the house. During this walk, the two eldest enquired par- 
ticularly about you & Mary & expressed an earnest desire to 
see you both — not unmixed with the hope that you at least wd. 
make a run in the stage one of these days as far as Maysville. 

The weather has been remarkably cool and pleasant on the 
river, since I left Zanesville — I have not been at all incommoded 
by heat — I make it a rule not to go on deck in the morning till 
the sun has dissipated the fog, when there is any — and always to 
retire to my birth soon after sunset. 



364 Early Travels in Indiana. 

We expect to arrive at Cincinn tonight or tomorrow morning. 
I shall therefore, here close my letter and seal it. 
Yr truly affectionate Father, 

Wm. Pelham. 

On bd Post Boy, Ohio River. 
Wednesd, noon, Aug. 10, 1825. 
32 miles below Cincinn. 
My dear Son — 

We reached Cincinnati yesterday abt. 10 A.M. & left it about 
6 in the evg. It has been so often and so well described, that it 
is needless for me to make any remarks on it. In fact I saw but 
little of the city my attention being almost wholly directed to 
other objects. What I did see, however, greatly surpassed my 
expectations. In approaching the city we counted 10 new steam 
boats on the stocks — besides some under repair. Boats contin- 
ually passing up and down. It is really a handsome and even 
elegant town, containing an immense amt. of property. 

As soon as we got to the shore I landed, and walking up the 
Main street I unexpectedly met our old friend Mr. John Scott, 
who resides there with his family. After the usual salutations, 
I enquired for, and he directed me to a first rate barber, who shaved 
me admirably, and cut off my pigtail! — the inconvenience of which 
I could no longer endure. While these operations were perform- 
ing, Mr. Scott called in, accompanied by Jas. Taylor, Jr. of Zanes- 
ville who intended proceedg. — homewards this morning, and will, 
doubtless, call on you. I feel much indebted to his attentive 
kindness during my short stay in Cincinn. We went together to 
the office of the Literary Gaz. [Gazette] and afterwards to the 
P. O. where I saw Mr. Burke and Mr. Langdon, his asst. and de- 
posited a letter which you will probably receive next Saty evg. 
Mr. Langdon accompanied me and introduced me to Mr. Wm. 
Bosson, a mercht. of Cincinn. who has lately returned from 
Harmony, where he has a brother — a member of the Community, 
to whom he gave me an introductory letter, and likewise to 2 
merchts. in Louisville. Mr. B. also kindly introduced me to Messrs. 
Clark & Greene, agents for the Community. They offered me, 
& I accepted an introductory letter to Wm. Owen & likewise one 
to the Agents in Louisville. I spent several hours very agreeably 
in Mr. Bosson's store in conversation with him. He is a young 
man, very intelligent — apparently of an amiable disposition — 



William Pelham. 365 

and devoted to the System. I learnt that Wm. Owen in the only 
member of his family now at Harmony — that his age is about 25, 
that the elder Mr. O. previous to his departure for Europe, called 
a meeting of all the members, in which mutual confidence was 
most strongly expressed. Mr. Owen dissolved the Committee 
appointed by himself, and requested the society to choose whom- 
soever they pleased — for some time this was declined, as all 
declared themselves well satisfied with his choice — but on being 
urged to it — they proceeded to the election; and the first person 
chosen was Wm. Owen. The greater part, if not all the other 
members were re-chosen. This is a pleasing mark of mutual 
confidence — another is, that Mr. Owen made an offer to the society 
of the whole establishment, land, buildings &c, at their price own 
and on their own terms, so well satisfied was he of their disposi- 
tion and ability to cany the System into full & complete operation. 
Whether this offer was or was not accepted I did not learn, or 
have forgotten. It is certain, however, that things are going 
on well — the society has nearly overcome all the difficulties in- 
cident to such a heterogeneous congregation of strangers to each 
other. To my enquiry whether any new members cd. obtain 
admission, Mr. Bosson replied, that he thought no new families 
could as yet — but in 2 years, the contemplated new village will 
be ready for the reception of members, as they are rapidly pre- 
paring materials. By the last accounts, the number of inhabi- 
tants amounted to 1050 or 1100. 370 children are daily taught 
in the schools — So far you will perceive I have heard nothing that 
has the least tendency to diminish my confidence in the System, 
either in principle or practice. On my arrival at Louisville, I 
shall close this letter, and put it into the Post Office there. At 
present I will only add that here I am again seated upright on the 
foot of my bed, my feet as before, resting conveniently on 
my foot board. I have cut the leather hinges of my provision 
box and the lid placed on my knees and covered with a towel forms 
a very convenient table for my meals — -& writing. On the bed 
behind me are scattered my books and papers &c, &c, all very 
handy. — I write at my ease — without hurry or interuption — but 
after all — I would rather be seated in a comfortable house on 
shore, provided I hear not the tiresome question, "Is there any 
letter here for ". . . 

Louisville, Sat. 13, Aug. 12 o'clock-noon. 

We have just arrived here. The Capt. Finds it necessary to 



366 Early Travels in Indiana. 

unload almost entirely as he cannot pass the falls with more than 
16 barrels of Flour — besides the winds ahead — I guess we shall 
not leave this place till noon tomorrow. 

Unless something extraordinary occurs you will not hear from 
me again till I get to Mt. Vernon. 

Ohio River 100 miles below Louisville. 
Wed. 17 Aug. 1825.— 
My dear William, 

We reached Louisville last Saturday about noon, where I put 
a letter into the P. 0. which you will probably receive next 
Tuesday evening. The Capt. immediately commenced unload- 
ing, and the boat passed the falls about sunset to Shippingport. 
In the meantime, I remained at Louisville & called on Messrs. 
I. & W. Stewart, agents for the Harmony Community, to whom 
I had a letter from Cincinnati. They have on hand a complete 
printing apparatus, (weighing about 2 tons) waiting an oppy. of 
forwarding it to Harmony. Here I regretted that our boat was 
so deeply laden that we could not take in on board. Here I also 
met with Mr. Larkin, a member of the Community, on his way 
down, with his famy — but excessively embarrassed how to con- 
trive a conveyance. His report of affairs at Harmy [Harmony] 
which he left four weeks ago (to meet his famy — ) corresponds 
exactly with all our previous information. I called at Dr. Gait's 
but had not the satisfaction of seeing him — his son (your former 
schoolfellow at Neef's) enquired particularly abt you. Next 
morning about Sunrise I set out to walk 2 miles to Shippingport 
& if the weather had been a little cooler shd have performed it 
with ease. Here I found them reloading the boat. Then I 
breakfasted & returned to Louisville to get some clothes I had 
left to be washed. When I returned to Shipt. the boat was re- 
loaded, but everything so transposed, that I am not so conveniently 
located as before. However it matters little, for we shall be at 
Mt. Vernon next Saturday or Sunday. At Louisville I reed the 
O. R. [Ohio Republic] Aug. 6, the first I have seen since leaving 
Zanesville. The river is uncommonly low — we have had no rain 
but once — and that was of little or no service. We have left 
behind us everything we came in sight of — steamboats excepted. 

I am writing this letter on board the boat intending, if possible, 
to put it into the P. 0. at Troy, where we shall probably arrive 
tomorrow forenoon. 

We started from Shippingport on Sunday afternoon abt 4 



William Pelham. 367 

o'clock, and odd as it may appear to you, I was really glad to be 
on board again. I suffered excessively by the heat of the weather 
at Louisville and Shipping-port, but here, I am comparatively 
comfortable — the greatest annoyance I now endure is from muske- 
toes which have begun to be troublesome since we left Shippgpt. 
We no longer see any steamboats, though they were frequently 
passing and repassing us between Cincinn and Louisville. 

The Capt. intends to write to Wm. Thompson from the mouth 
of the Cumberland river. In the meantime he requests you to 
say to him that he has ascertained the price of flour at Florence 
by a gentlemen who lately came from there, and who seemed 
desirous of buying him out at $5 per barrel which he declined. 
While at Louisville Mr. Boyd enquired of Wilson and Chambers, 
and likewise Buchanan, but they had no later accounts than 
about 4 weeks ago when flour was 6.50 to 7.00 — their paper 
being at 10 per cent discount. He desires that you will apologise 
to W. T. for his not writing from Cincinn and Louisville, as he 
had not time, being very anxious to get forward. At Cincinn. he 
found a boat loaded with flour for Florence, which is left far be- 
hind. 

From Mt. Vernon you may expect another letter from 
Your truly affectionate Father, 

Wm. Pelham. 

Mt. Vernon, Indiana. 
Mond. 22nd Aug. 1825. 
11 o'clock A.M. 

This letter, my dear son, will apprise you of my arrival at 
this place, where I shall remain 2 or 3 days to recruit and refit, 
and then take a walk to New Harmony in co. [company] with a 
young man who resides there, and who will then return there. 

The Post Boy landed me yesterday about 10 o'clock and I 
am lodging with Mr. Welburn, the Postmaster who is likewise 
agent for the new community. I have gained but little addition 
to me stock of information on the interesting subject. The young 
man alluded to is a carpenter & joiner — has been 3 months in 
Harmony — and is very well pleased with it. 

The weather has, for the last 3 days been cloudy & cold and 
now threatens rain. I find that the E. [Eastern] mail arrives 
here every Monday, about noon, & immediately returns, crossing 
the river from, and recrossing to Kentucky & proceeding on that 



368 Early Travels in Indiana. 

side to Louisville & Maysville. On Friday a mail is reed, from 
Vincennes & returns the same day through Harmony. You will 
hence perceive the most direct communication with this place 
and Harmony. * * * 

After remaining here about an hour yesterday, Capt. Boyd 
proceeded on his voyage. He charged me $7 — for my passage 
from Z. saying that this was $3 less that he would have charged 
if the agreement had been made at L. I find after all expenses 
paid to this place, I am just 18 dollars minus than when I started — 
and upon the whole, I am very well satisfied. 

Remember me kindly to all friends. My next letter will be 
from N. Harmony. Your affectionate Father, 

Wm. Pelham. 

[P. S.] By the bye, I have just learned from Mr. Wilburn that a 
printing press is actually in operation at Harmony though they 
have not yet commenced the publication of a newspaper. 

New Harmony, Ind. 
Th. 25 Aug., 1825. 
My Dear William, 

I can only write you a few lines to say that I arrived here yester- 
day afternoon in company with a member of the community 
whose interesting information and conversation tended greatly 
to diminish the tediousness and fatigue of the walk. In a few 
days I shall write you again & at large. 

Remember me kindly to all enquiring friends, 
Yr affectn. father, 

Wm. Pelham. 

New Harmony, Inda. Sept 7, 1825. 
My dear Son, 

I feel exceedingly desirous of writing to you, because I know 
a letter from me will be agreeable to you; — and yet I am loth to 
begin. Such a multitude of ideas crowd upon me, that I am 
doubtful whether I shall be able to select such as will be most 
interesting to you. 

I wrote you from Marietta — from Cincinn. — from Louisville — 
from Mt. Vernon — and lastly on my arrival here. At Mt. 
V. [Vernon]^ settled with Absalom Boyd, theCapt. of the boat, 
and paid him $7 for my passage, baggage included, somewhat less 
than one cent per mile, which he assured me was, the usual rate. 



William Pelham. 369 

After paying for the transportation of my baggage from Mt. 
Vernon hither $2 — I found the $25 I had appropriated to the ex- 
penses of my journey almost exhausted. But here I am, without 
having experiences any disaster or serious inconvenience; having 
enjoyed uninterrupted health till a few evenings ago when I took 
cold by incautiously exposing myself to the night air. I am now 
again as well as before. 

At Mt. Vernon I was introduced to Mr. Schnee, a member of 
the Committee, and Postmaster here, on his return from Shawnee- 
town on business of the Society. We soon became acquainted, 
and it appears that we were mutually pleased with each other. 
His countenance and manner indicated good sense, good nature, 
and firmness of character, and on further acquaintance I find 
these indications were not fallacious. He is an intelligent, active, 
viligant, and efficient member of the Committee. He left Mt. 
Vernon the day before I did and met me at the Tavern in Harmony 
on my arrival. After I had taken some refreshment, he con- 
ducted me to the Committee room, and introduced me to Mr. 
Wm. Owen, Mr. Secretary Lewis, Mr. T. M. Bosson, Mr. Jennings 
and Dr. McNamee, all members of the Commee, by whom I was 
severally greeted with kindness unalloyed by affectation or osten- 
tation. I soon discovered that forms and ceremonies have no 
place here, and the intercourse being plain, easy and free, is 
exactly suited to my taste. Plainness of manners and plainness 
of dress are characteristic of this society. 

I lodged two nights at the Tavern, and then removed to the 
room I now occupy and in which I am now writing. It was offered 
to me by Mr. Bosson, being an unfinished one immediately above 
his own, which is scarcely any better, but they will do for the 
present, and as the cold weather advances we shall have to shift 
our quarters or be frozen to death. These rooms are in the house 
where the meetings of the Committee are held, and the only dif- 
ference is, that the Comee rooms are lathed and plastered. Within 
two-hundred yards of us stands the Old Harmony church, a 
large frame building painted white with a steeple containing a 
clock which strikes the hours and quarters. By this clock are 
regulated the occupations and amusements of the inhabitants. 
At five every morning the bell is rung for the commencement of 
the daily business, at seven it is again rung to signify that break- 
fast will be ready in all the boarding houses and the Tavern in 
a qr. [quarter] of an hour. At 12 it is rung again & dinner is ready 
everywhere in fifteen minutes, the same at six for supper. Every 

T— 24 



370 Early Travels in Indiana/ 

Tuesday evening such as chuse to dance assemble in the Hall 
(which is a large brick building near and almost adjoining the 
church) where they find an excellent band of music, and amuse 
themselves till nine o'clock. The utmost order, regularity and 
good humor exist here and I have witnessed these periodical 
dancing assemblies with approbation and pleasure, the music 
being excellent. 

On Wecly, evg. such of the society as choose to attend in the 
church are made acquainted with the transactions of the Comee 
— during the preceding week, and everyone gives his opinion 
freely respecting the best course to be pursued. On Thursday 
evg. there is a regular concert, on Friday something else which 
I do not recollect and Saturday evening is not appropriated to 
any particular object. On Sunday the Rev. Mr. Jennings com- 
monly delivers a lecture in the forenoon (without any formal text) 
in which he explains the manner of receiving religious impres- 
sions. I have not yet heard one of these Sunday lectures, but 
from several conversations I have had with him, I can plainly 
see that he will never try to stupify the understanding of his hearers 
with unintelligable dogmas, and incomprehensible jargon. What 
he says is plain, and easy to be understood. On the Thursday, 
that is, the next day following my arrival, a Baptist preacher 
came into the town and announced his intention of delivering a 
discourse in the evening in the Church. Accordingly, a large 
congregation assembled, and listened to him with great attention. 
He is certainly one of their first rate preachers, and he managed his 
matters with much address. The next evening — (Friday) Mr. 
Jennings delivered a lecture in the same place, and ably demon- 
strated the sandy foundation of the ingenious gentleman's argu- 
ments, without any pointed allusion to him or his arguments. 
At the close of the lecture my gentleman thought proper to make 
a rejoinder, tho nothing had been said of him or his doctrines, but 
he did not seem to be in so good a humor as he was the evening 
before — although he had previously preformed the marriage 
ceremony for a young couple — especially when this young couple 
retired with their friends into the Hall to enjoy the pleasures of 
music and dancing instead of listening to his rejoinder. 

I have now been here 2 Sundays. On the first (Mr. Jennings 
being absent on business) Mr. Wm. Owen read to the congregation 
some extracts from his fathers publications — and last Sunday, 
Mr. Jennings being indisposed, another member read several 
extracts from other portions of Mr. Owen's works. In both 



William Pelham. 371 

instances these extracts were accompanied with appropriate re- 
marks of the reader explaining and connecting the passages. 
Last Sunday afternoo?i we were regaled with a truly christian 
harangue from a rambling shaking quaker who happened to be 
here. 

You would be surprised to see how punctually I attend these 
Sunday meetings in the Church, and how frequently I am peram- 
bulating the streets, and falling in and conversing familiarly with 
successive groups before the door of the Tavern particularly in the 
evening when these groups commonly assemble — not to drink and 
carouse, but for the purpose of rational conversation, here are no 
brawling braggarts, no idle jesters delighting to wound the feelings 
of each other — no intemperate buffoons eager to make sport of one 
another, for no member of the community can obtain any ardent 
spirit either at the Tavern or the store, without a certificate from 
the Doctor that it is needed as a medicine — a regulation that 
would be very useful in Zanesville as well as here. I have mixed 
much with all descriptions of persons, and I declare I have not 
heard an offensive word spoken by a single individual. Good hum- 
ored jokes are undoubtedly frequent but the general tenor of the 
conversation is of a serious philosophical cast. Those who are 
incapable of this appear still to take an interest in discussions of 
this kind, or separate into groups to talk over the occurrances of 
the day, occasionally introducing some jocular remark, tending to 
excite mirth without wounding the sensibility of any. 

As to dollars & cents, they are words seldom heard any where 
but in the public store, which is like all other trading shops, 
differing however in this, that every head of a family, or single 
unmarried member unconnected with a family, instead of carry- 
ing money to the store, is furnished a Pass-book in which he is 
charged with what he buys, and is credited every week with the 
amount of his earnings. These pass-books exhibit a curious 
medley of items, bacon, chickens, eggs, melons, cucumbers, 
butter, tea, sugar, coffee &c &c with all the varieties of store 
goods on the debit side, while on the other are placed the credits 
of the individuals. I have been several days employed in over- 
hauling and balancing these pass-books (the clerk whose particular 
duty it is, being sick) and this has given me the opportunity of 
making these observations, which indeed anyone may do who will 
take the trouble of looking over them, for they are open to the 
inspection of all who choose to examine them. There are about 
300 of these pass-books continually in motion. 



372 Early Travels in Indiana. 

At the particular request of Mr. Keightly and Mr. Harris, 
I have obtained the insertion of their names in the register of 
applicants for admission into the Society, and if they were now 
here, I have no doubt they would both find immediate employ- 
ment, the former in the Turners' & machine makers shop apper- 
taining to the Steam mill, the latter in the Pub. [public] store; 
But they would certainly be puzzled to find comfortable lodgings 
especially if they did not come prepared with a sufficiency of 
bedding and utensils for housekeeping. If any other of our friends 
wish me to have their names also inscribed in the Register, I will 
make application for them, on their request being made known 
to me — the notification must contain the name and age of the 
applicant, the age of his wife, if a married man — the number, ages 
and sexes of his children — the place of his birth, and his present 
residence — his trade or occupation — and his motive for wishing 
to join the society. 

The manner in which I became employed in the Pub. [public] 
store was this. As no one in this community is urged or pressed 
to perform any work that he pointedly dislikes, it was delicately 
intimated to me by the Accountant at the store that the young 
man whose duty it was to attend to the pass-book department 
being sick his business was running behind and my services wd 
be acceptable as long as I liked to continue them. Notwithstand- 
ing my aversion to commercial matters I readily assented and 
entered the Counting room, where I at once found myself at home, 
though among strangers — such is the frankness of manners pre- 
vailing here. I would, however, rather be somehow or other 
connected with the printing establishment, and I think I shall 
accomplish this as soon as the publication of the paper is com- 
menced. I have frequently conversed with Mr. Palmer the 
superintendent of the pr. [printing] office who has already in 
some instances accepted my services as corrector of several proof 
sheets of a pamphlet he is printing. I have been urging on the 
Comee. to commence the publication and I think it will commence 
next week, probably on Saturday the 7th inst. I shall not fail 
to forward it to you for exchange. You will of course send yours 
& if the Reformer is not printed in Philad. let me know where it 
is printed. 

Mr. Schnee informed me yesterday that the mail route from 
hence is to Princeton — from thence to Evansville, and so along 
on the Indiana side of the river to New Albany where it crosses 



William Pelham. 373 

over to Louisville, thence to Cincinn. or Maysville, he is not sure 
which, but most probably to Cincinn. 

And now, my clear Wm. I hope you will give me a letter at 
least once each week, letting me know how you all go on & espe- 
cially if you meet with any Post Office difficulties. Never mind 
John Dillon or his ill-humor abt the newspapers, but make him 
pay his postage. One thing I particularly recommend & that is 
to exact punctual payment from all for fear of the worst. * * * 

Yr aff. father, 

Wm. Pelham. 

N. Harmony, Sept. 8, 1825. 
My dear Wm. * * * 

You will perceive by my letters to the P. M. G. and to 
Dr. Bradley that I have become a Harmonite and mean to spend 
the remainder of my days in this abode of peace and quietness. 
I have experienced no disappointment. I did not expect to find 
every thing regular, systematic, convenient — nor have I found 
them so. I did expect to find myself relieves from a most 
disagreeable state of life, and be able to mix with my fellow citi- 
zens without fear or imposition — without being subject to ill 
humor and unjust censures and suspicions — and this expectation 
has been realized — I am at length free — my body is at my own 
command, and I enjoy mental liberty, after having long been 
deprived of it. I can speak my sentiments without fear of any 
bad consequences, and others do the same — here are no political 
or religious quarrels, though there is a great diversity of opinion 
in matters of religion. Each one says what he thinks, and mutual 
respect for the sentiments of each other seems to pervade all our 
intercourse. Mr. Jennings is our preacher, and I hear him with 
approbation and satisfaction. The Methodists have likewise a 
preacher among them, who sometimes holds forth to the great 
delight of those who take pleasure in confounding their under- 
standing. I am in habits of intimacy with Mr. Jennings, and 
Mr. Bosson particularly, who are both men of great powers of mind 
I am on the best terms with Mr. Schnee, who I may even venture 
to call my friend, and likewise with the other members of the 
Committee. 

I heartily wish you were here — you would at once find em- 
ployment in the printing office, and pass your life hapily — You 
would be associated with a number of young men who form a band 
of music, and perform a concert every Thursday evg. You 



374 Early Travels in Indiana. 

would even join in the dance which takes place once a week. 
Your military propensities would be fully gratified in finding a 
sufficient number of congenial dispositions who are fond of that 
pursuit and have formed themselves into a Co. of St. Infantry 
under the direction of Capt. Larkin, who takes pleasure in it. 
They have just reed, their uniform from Pittsburg, but have not 
yet appeared in it. Upon the whole, after a full comparison of 
the advantages and inconveniences of my present situation I am 
quite satisfied. Let us now attend to other matters. * * * 

There has for some time past been a good deal of conversa- 
tion and consultation about establishing a social, circulating- 
library, but nothing has yet been decided on. Whenever this 
is determined on I am to be Librarian, which, with my occupa- 
tion in the printing office will be sufficient employment for me — 
and of the most agreeable kind — and with agreeable people. 
You may be sure I am doing all I can to bring it about. In the 
meantime I spend my time in obtaining a correct knowledge of 
the local affairs of the place. In due time I will communicate 
the result of the observations I may be able to make. At present 
I am boarding with the only baker in the town at 57 cents per 
week. He is a young married man — no children — and our dinner 
party consists of himself, his wife — Mr. Bosson and myself. 
That is, Mr. B. and I have our breakfast — dinner and tea there — 
and our lodging as before described, so that I may say, upon the 
whole I am very well situated. 

I wish you would write me a long letter, — freely & confiden- 
tially, which will not fail to impart great satisfaction to, my dear 
Wm. Yr. truly affectionate father, 

Wm. Pelham. 

New Harmony, Inda. Friday Sept. 9, 1825. 
My dear William. 

Yesterday evening, after I had written, sealed and put into 
the P. O. 2 packets directed to the "P. M. Zanesville" **.*,! 
received your acceptable favor of the 15th of August, accompanied 
with the O. Rep. of Aug. 13. 

Associations on Mr. Owen's principles I find are springing 
up in the various places. Beside the society at the Yellow Spring, 
and the one you mention in Allegany Co. Pa. another has been 
formed at Albion, Illinois, the settlement made by the late Mr. 
Birkbeck, of which a favorable acct. has been reed. here. 

Your information that Mess. Keightly and Harris will not 



William Pelham. 375 

visit this place till October or November corresponds with what 
I learnt from themselves, and really I do not know how they will 
contrive to obtain accomodations when they do come. If they 
remain at the Tavern while they are not members they will be 
charged, each, $2 a week, as the Tavern is considered one of the 
sources of revenue for the society. If they come determined and 
prepared to join the society immediately, I think Mr. K. may 
manage to fit up some vacant log-hut for the reception of himself 
and famy. and Mr. H. might find admission into one of the board- 
ing houses established for the accommodation of members of the 
community. It was fortunate for me that I had the precaution 
to bring all my bedding, tho upon opening my packages I was 
disappointed to find no thin coverlet. I really thought a white 
quilt had been put into the barrel or the large trunk. Your run 
was of great service to me. On board the boat it saved my bed 
and blankets from dirt & here it is tacked on the frame of my cob- 
bedstead. * * * 

While at Mt. Vernon I heard the most unfavorable accounts 
of this place, but knowing how prone mankind are to speak ill 
of everything intended for their benefit, I paid but little attention 
to what was said. On my arrival here, the mystery was ex- 
plained. The most bitter denunciators of the system were pre- 
cisely those who applied for admission and been refused; because 
they were idlers, whose sole object was to be supported by the 
industrious part of the community. They were disappointed 
and hence arose their enmity. This society has certainly com- 
menced under the most unfavorable circumstances. Their pred- 
ecessors left everything to be renewed — before this establishment 
could be made productive. They settled themselves here in 
poverty and misery and departed in wealth and comfort, and con- 
sidering these and other circumstances, it is rather surprising that 
their successors, coming from all quarters of the world, and unac- 
quainted with one another's habits and dispositions, have been 
able to effect so much as they have done for their mutual con- 
venience and comfort. Everyone with whom I converse, expresses 
the utmost confidence in the integrity, wisdom, and benevo- 
lence of Mr. Owen, and the day of his return will be a day of re- 
joicing throughout the settlement. The present Committee is 
composed of men of first rate ability — but they cannot perform 
impossibilities — they cannot in a day or a month change long 
established habits and prejudices, there must be time for this, 
and three months intercourse has already produced much more 



376 Early Travels in Indiana. 

harmony of mind and unity of action than any other system is 
capable of producing. On my way from Mt. Vernon, within 
three miles of this place, I came to an extensive brick yard on the 
side of the road where a number of men were busily employed in 
making bricks for the new village, the location of which will be 
on the opposite side of the road. 

You mention that you have "heard some discouraging news 
from New Harmony, propagated by an English ropemaker who 
left Cincinn quite charmed with the system, and has since re- 
turned disgusted." I have enquired into this matter and learned 
that the person alluded to, as soon as he came in sight of the town 
from the neighboring hills, declared that he was utterly disap- 
pointed and disgusted, he, nevertheless, came into the town — 
had all the talk to himself — tarried one night and departed next 
morning to enlighten his hearers on the subject of Mr. Owen's 
System for ameliorating the condition of mankind. How little 
could this man know of what he could so flippantly talk about, — 
and what sort of hearers must those people be, who could swallow 
his crudities? 

Sunday Sept. 11, 12 o'clock M. 

I have just returned from Meeting;- — and strange as it may 
appear to you, I am a constant attendant. The orator was Mr. 
Jennings; and the substance, and indeed the whole of his discourse 
was a moral lecture, in the plainest and most intelligible language. 
He began by reading an extract from Robert Dale Owen's "Out- 
line of the System of Education at Lanark" beginning at the 1st 
page, in which the author disclaims all necessity for reward or 
punishment in the education of children. The orator then pro- 
ceeded to illustrate by familiar examples, the beneficial results 
of a course in which rewards and punishments are exploded, and 
the pernicious effects of an opposite course. Mr. Jennings then 
expatiated on the rights and duties of men in society, clearly 
showing that equality is the parent of liberty and justice; without 
a full enjoyment of which, mankind cannot be otherwise than 
unhappy. The discourse, as far as it could be regarded in a 
political light, was a truly democratic lecture, exhibiting the ill 
consequences arising from artificial distinctions, in station, in 
dress, and appearance and recommended as much uniformity in 
these particulars as may be practicable in this preliminary society. 
At the close of the lecture he announced that the publication of 
the "New Harmony Gazette" would be commenced on next Saty. 
week — viz. the 24" of Sept. 



William Pelham. 377 

I learnt today that the Committee determined yesterday that 
the publication of the paper should commence under the direction 
of Mr. Jennings and Mr. Owen & that my assistance would be 
acceptable as Corrector &c &c. 

Tuesday evg. 13th. 

Yesterday morning Mr. J. conducted me to the Editorial room 
which is a commodius one in the house where he resides. * * * 
Here I commenced my operations by filing, at my leisure, all the 
newspapers in possession of the establishment, consisting chiefly 
of the N. Intelln. [Intelligence] & N. Journal and of these not 
many. Mr. J. has a good, tho small collection of books which he 
has placed in this room. — 

Now while I think of it, I will tell you what would be accept- 
able to me if Mr. Keightly could make it convenient to take 
charge of them when he comes in November. 

1st. All the books &c on the enclosed list. Of the others, 
retain what you please, and send me the remainder. 

2dly. My bedstead which I left standing in the front room 
and if accompanied with a sacking bottom — the old curtains 
and valance — so much the better. I can have a tester made here. 

3rd. An old quilt of some sort, and a hammer to drive small 
nails, tacks &c. 

4th. Four chairs which I left in the front room. 

5. The looking glass which hung in the back parlor in the 
mahogany frame. If I had been certain of remaining here when 
I left Z. I should have brought these things with me, for I am 
daily experiencing the want of some of them. 

Wed. 14 Sept. 
At 4 o'clock this afternoon I shall have been here 3 weeks, 
having arrived on the 24th Aug. as stated before, and really I 
seem already to be an old inhabitant, which I can no otherwise 
account for than by the circumstance of my having become 
acquainted with so many people and the frank and friendly inter- 
course subsisting among us. Whatever difference of opinion 
there may be, (and there is in reality a great difference in religious 
matters) — I hear no illiberal remarks, I see no overbearing temper 
exhibited, but each one pursues his own course without meddling 
with his neighbor. The most numerous sect, I believe, is that of 
the persons who take delight in wandering with Baron Sweden- 
borg in the regions of fancy, where they are permitted to roam at 
large without annoyance or molestation. As they experience no 



378 Early Travels in Indiana. 

persecution, they have nothing to complain of, only that others 
will not wander with them. The same remark applied to the 
other sectarians, and hence a kind of tacit agreement has been 
made to let each other alone. You can scarcely imagine how well 
satisfied I am with this state of things, so much I assure you, 
that no temptation could again draw me into the vortex of mental 
tyranny from which I have escaped. Liberty of speech and 
action without infringing on the rights of others, has ever been 
the object of my ardent desire, and here at length, I enjoy it. 

Thursday Morning. 

As I have nothing new to communicate respecting myself or 
others, I will endeavor to give you some idea of the buildings and 
general appearance of this place, premising that the town is laid 
off in squares, similar to Zanesville, though the houses and gardens 
are far from being as regular. There is a considerable number of 
brick houses, some frame buildings, and a great many log-cabins, 
some of which are built of hewed logs, the others round and rough. 
In the center stands the Church, near which is an excellent pump, 
at about an equal distance from the Church and Tavern. Mr. 
Rapp's large brick dwelling on one side fronts the Church, or 
rather the square in which the Church stands; and on the other, 
fronts the main street, having in each front 7 windows below and 
7 in the second story. The boarding houses, and the boarding 
school the new church (now called the Hall) the steam mill, and 
the public store, are all of brick, and are more or less large, acord- 
ing to their respective uses. The brick as well as the frame 
dwelling houses are built on an uniform and very limited scale, and 
none of them of more than 2 low stories, the ground floor being 
invariably as follows, with the gable end to the street & a small 
garden full of fruit trees attached to each. They are commonly 
placed at the corners of the squares. The workshops are mostly 
in log huts. The upper story is an exact counterpart of the lower 
one, if the lower. rooms hold all the family the large upper room 
and the little cell over the kitchen are appropriated to boarders. 

The log-cabins are scattered about without the least regard to 
regularity of location. The situation of this helter-skelter village 
is really beautiful, and since the surrounding land has been cleared 
and drained, is healthy. The town receives its supply of water 
for domestic use from a number of wells and pumps dispersed 
through it, and I understand it is of that kind called limestone. 
For washing the inhabitants depend on rain and river water. 



William Pelham. 379 

I have been here three weeks & I have not yet seen the Wabash !! 
The reason is that I find so many other things attracting my atten- 
tion that my rambles have been much circumscribed, In fact, 
my chief object has been to make myself acquainted with the 
individual character of the human beings by which I am sur- 
rounded, and the system of government in operation. I have now 
reason to believe that the principle care of providing matter for 
the N. H. [New Harmony] Gazette will devolve upon me and my 
time will consequently be engaged by that concern. Of the two 
members of the Committee who were appointed to superintend 
the press, Mr. Jennings has declined, in order that he may give 
his whole attention to the superintendence of the Boarding School 
& Mr. Owen's daily & pressing occupations leave him no time, so 
I think the paper will be left pretty much to Mr. Palmer and 
myself, with such occasional assistance as we can extort from the 
literati. Although the day fixed for the coihmencement of the 
paper of the 24" of this month, I do not like that it should be 
begun on that day, and as it has already been so long delayed I 
shall endeavor to postpone it one week longer that it may commence 
on the 1st of October. By this arrangement the 1st vol. will 
comprise 7 months ending on the 1st May, the 2nd 6 months 
ending on 1st Nov. and every other vol. 6 months ending alternately 
on 1st Nov. and 1st May, the latter being the anniversary of the 
adoption of the New Harmony Constitution. Whether the Comee. 
will agree to the postponement I know not, but I shall urge it, 
with due diference. I have not mentioned it yet to Mr. Palmer 
but I have no doubt of his assent. 

Since writing the above, I have conversed with Mr. P. [Palmer] 
on the subject. He says each year will form one vol. in the manner 
of the Cincinnati Literary Gaz. and other similar papers. * * * 
Most truly yr affectionate father, 

Wra. Pelham. 

Monday 19 Sept. 1825. 
Yesterday at 10 o'clock A. M. Mr. Jennings ascended the 
pulpit in the old Church (which is now called The Church) and 
continued the reading of Robert Dale Owen's Outline of Educa- 
tion. His auditors were about as numerous as usual. He again 
expatiated on the indispensable necessity of establishing the 
principle of equality as the basis of liberty. He showed the ab- 
solute necessity of everyone being diligent in the performance of 
his or her respective duty. He was listened to with profound 



380 Early Travels in Indiana. 

attention, and the discourse he delivered must produce good 
effects because it was reasonable and perfectly intelligible to all. 

At 2 o'clock P. M. it was announced by the ringing of the bell 
that something was to be said or done at church. I immediately 
repaired hither, and found the pulpit occupied by a stranger who 
thought he could say something that would be useful. Very few 
persons were present. The gentleman began by giving out a hymn 
to be sung by the congregation — only one person joined him. 
After hobbling through one verse, the remainder was laid aside 
and "Let us pray" pronounced in an audible voice. Some knelt 
down, some stood, and others remained sitting. The preacher 
delivered a devout prayer, and seemed much relieved by this 
effusion of the spirit. He then commenced an attempt to reconcile 
some contradictions in the holy book — and talked about f of an 
hour in the usual, incoherent, unintelligible manner. I found 
afterwards that his remarks made little or no impression on his 
hearers. 

At 8 p. m. the bell again rang and I again attended where I 
found a considerable number of persons assembled to hear a 
preacher of the Methodist doctrine whose name I could not learn, 
though I inquired of several persons. I found, however, that he 
was one of the Circuit preachers. This man appeared to have 
learned his lessons very accurately, for his cant phrases flowed 
from him with remarkable ease and rapidity, and were answered 
by many spiritual groans, and other evidences of entire sympathy. 
When he gave out a hymn, a considerable number of male and 
female voices were joined with his, and really the music was 
delightful, for singing is taught here scientifically. He then 
named a text, and talked as usual about sin, and the devil, and 
heaven, and the straight and narrow way leading to salvation, 
the utter impossibility of being saved but through the merits 
of our blessed Lord and Savior, Jesus Christ &c &c. I mustered 
patience to sit and hear him to the end and when the judge 
pronounces against me "Depart ye wicked &c" I intend to plead 
this command of myself in mitigation of the sentence. After he 
had finished, a member of the Community with whom I am ac- 
quainted, and who is a sort of a Methodist preacher, took his 
place in the pulpit, and in a moderate tone and manner related 
his individual experience as an example to others, he was also 
attended to though he said nothing but what had been said a 
thousand times. It seems he is unwilling to exchange his belief 
in divine revelation for all the joys and pleasures of the world. 



William Pelham. 381 

So be it, for notwithstanding this whimsical notion, he is really a 
good member of the Society, and devoted to the system as far 
as he comprehends it. 

You would be amused to come into the church while we are 
at our devotions. The walls bare — the ceiling lofty — the beams 
and joists uncovered, the pulpit itself nothing but a raised plat- 
form furnished with a bench, and sort of desk, the preacher in his 
ordinary clothing, a striped roundabout and linen pantaloons — 
(this is the common appearance of Mr. Jennings, Mr. Owen and 
some others) benches ranged for the congregation, on one side 
for the men, on the other for the females, many of the former in 
their shirt sleeves, among the latter a variety of ornamental 
drapery, and among the whole the greatest order and decorum. 
No one troubles himself about his neighbor's appearance unless 
there be an affectation of finical attention to dress. This however, 
will wear away gradually. 

Tuesday evg. 9 o'clock. 

I have just returned from the Hall, where there is music and 
dancing every Tuesday evening. Every Friday evening there 
is a concert in the same place. Some biggots are dreadfully 
scandalized that these parties are held in a building originally 
intended for divine worship, nevertheless, the fire and brimstone 
have not yet descended from heaven to destroy us for this wicked 
perversion. 

Yesterday evening there was a drunken frolic among some 
young men who contrived to procure some whiskey from the 
country people who came in to make their purchases in the store. 
The Committee took cognizance of the matter today, and have 
expelled three of the offenders, who are deemed incorrigible, being 
not only addicted to drink but likewise gamblers and idlers. 
What sort of character will these men give us when they return 
to their homes? 

It is now determined that the paper shall be published on the 
1st of October, being the day Mr. Owen embarked in England 
12^months ago, to come to America. I gave Mr. Palmer all the 
matter I had prepared for the first paper, and he said there was 
enough for 3 at least. The paper will be in 4to— the size of the 
Cincinnati Literary Gazette. 

Tell Mr. Keightly that articles of provision will be in demand 
here in the course of the winter, such as hams, pickled pork, 
potatoes, and perhaps flour. Vegetables of all kinds are very 
scarce, for the old Harmonites left the garden fences in a wretched 



382 Early Travels in Indiana. 

condition, and before they could be repaired by the new comers, 
the hogs and cows had very materially injured the gardens. 
Some persons think that Mr. Owen will not be here till the middle 
of December and I am much of the same opinion. 

I have traversed the town to find a suitable editorial room in 
which I might place my bed, but hitherto without success. Many 
of the young men are lodging in barns and other out-houses, so 
that my present shell is esteemed a very confortable location, 
nevertheless I must have better winter quarters, or they will have 
me on the Doctor's list before Christmas. Of this, however, I 
have no great apprehension, for every member of the Committee 
seems disposed to accomodate me as well as circumstances will 
permit. * * * 

Thursday Evg. 

At, this moment (half past eight) the moon is shining brightly 
and the light infantry company under Capt. Larkin, dressed in 
their new uniform (very much like yours) are marching and count- 
ermarching in the square and in the streets, accompanied by the 
boys under the direction of their respective school-masters who 
teach them to perform the same evolutions which they do with 
great precision. 

This afternoon I attended the funeral of a female member. 
She was hurried out of the town in a corner of a fine apple orchard, 
and without any of the parade and cant that I have formerly seen 
and heard on such occasions. 

I must now quit writing and search 12 or 15 newspapers for 
matter to be inserted in the 1st number of the New Harmony 
Gaz. It is always best to take time by the forelock. 

Tell Mr. Nims, Mr. Westbrook and Mr. Sheward and all others 
who may inquire of you that the want of accommodation here 
at present is so great that I would recommend to them if they 
seriously contemplate a removal hither to postpone it till they 
hear further from me. * * * Wm. Pelham. 

Monday Evg. Sept. 26, 1825. 

On Saturday evening last, the Society was called together by 
the Committee to decide a case, which, being the only one yet 
presented to their notice, the Committee did not choose to deter- 
mine, on their own authority only. The case was this. 

The Superintendent of the Steam Mill had at several times 
complained to the Committee, that his pay was not sufficient for 



William Pelham. 383 

the support of himself and his family. On such occasions, the 
Committee, conformably to their usual practice, gave him an 
additional credit at the store. By this means he became a debtor 
to the Society, under the presumption that he would continue a 
member, and gradually wipe off the debt. But it seems that this 
was not his intention; for, a few days ago, having obtained another 
order on the store to the amount of sixty dollars, and received the 
goods he wanted, he suddenly gave notice of his intention to 
withdraw from the society. On settlement of his account, the 
balance against him, after every allowance, was $77.62^ This 
balance he refused to liquidate in any manner whatever, and the 
members of the Society were summoned to determine what steps 
should be taken on this novel case. After much discussion and 
ample explanation on both sides, a large majority determined 
by vote, that the Superintendent restore so much of the property 
drawn from the store as could be restored, for which he should 
have credit, and that for the remainder of the debt he should give 
his note payable at a time to be agreed on, and further, that if he 
refused to comply with these terms he should be expelled. 

I understand that the affair has been adjusted in some way, 
and that he will, tomorrow, retire from this place. During the 
meeting he endeavored to excite a spirit of general discontent 
among the members, but in this he utterly failed, and I have 
reason to believe that such attempts will always meet with a 
similar fate. I know not whither he is going, but doubtless, 
wherever he goes he will spread a doleful account of the injustice 
and oppression he experienced at New Harmony and advise his 
hearers to shun this place as they would a pleague or pestilence. 

Yesterday at the usual hour, Mr. Wm. Owen ascended the 
pulpit in the Church, and read that portion of Robert Dale Owen's 
"Outline of Education" which treats of the subject of religion, 
with explanatory remarks and comments of his own. He is a 
good reader and speaker, except that his voice is not sufficiently 
strong and firm. His audience was numerous and attentive. 
His manner is most mild and conciliating, for he is an ami- 
able young man, about twenty five. He only wants experience. 

This afternoon, the weather being fine, I treated myself with 
a view of the Wabash; the distance from my lodging being but 
little more than a quarter of a mile to the landing. The river is 
beautiful, and at this place about half the width of the Muskingum 
at Zanesville. The shore is a sandy beach intermixed with small 
pebbles. The bank appeared to be about twenty feet high from 



384 Early Travels in Indiana. 

the level of the water. From the foot of the bank to the edge of the 
water about the same distance. There were two or three boats 
lying at a little distance above the landing place. 

Tuesday noon. 

Last night the weather was so cold as to require a good fire. 
This coldness of the air silenced the musicians who have so dili- 
gently amused the inhabitants of this town every since I have 
been here. I mean certain little winged insects who take care to 
indemnify themselves for any trouble they are at to entertain us, 
by piercing the skin and drawing off the superfluous moisture. 
On my complaining of these troublesome visitors, I was told, 
"Never mind it, — you will get used to them" — and so indeed I 
found out; for I begin to be very indifferent about them. In 
reality, I have become inattentive to many inconveniences which 
would have worried me excessively in Zanesville. So much 
depends on the state of the mind. 

Afternoon 4 o'clock. 

I have just come from the printing office, where Mr. Palmer is 
working off one side of the paper. He has an elegant new Super- 
royal press of the kind called the Stansbury press, which requires 
less than one third of the strength necessary for working the 
common screw press. It cost $170. Having no knowledge in 
these matters, I cannot give you a description of it. I can only 
perceive that the labor of pulling the bar is comparatively noth- 
ing. I wish you had such a one, or that you were here to try 
the difference. * * * 

As you have had the opportunity of seeing a great number of 
newspapers, I wish you would send me a list of such as you recom- 
mend in exchange, omitting all that you know to be violent party 
papers, such as Democratic Press, N. York Advocate, Richmond 
Enquirer, and others of the same stamp. What do you think of 
the Athens Mirror in this point of view? I think it is a literary 
paper and it is such we want. But we want not any of the cant- 
ing, hypocritical, lying religious papers so called, which tell us 
everything but the truth and whose sole object is to "Milk the 
Goats." — If you don't understand this expression ask our friend, 
Martin Hill to explain it as he found it explained in "Plain Truth." 

The superintendent alluded to in the beginning of this letter 
is gone, having previously restored some of the goods he 



William Pelham. 385 

obtained, and given his note for the balance, with acceptable 
security. * * * 

My thoughts often dwell on you & and always with the feel- 
ings of An affectionate father, 

Wm. Pelham. 

Private and confidential. Sept. 29. [1825] 
What I have written to you, since my arrival here is strictly 
true as far as it goes, though I would not wish anything you re- 
ceive from me in manuscript, to appear in the paper, unless I 
particularly request it. Many things are in an unsettled state, 
and will probably remain so till Mr. Owen's return. 

As an instance — After Mr. Jenn. & Mr. 0. were appointed by 
the Com. to superintend the press, I applied to them for matter, 
both original and selected. The former explicity declined, and 
threw the burden on me — & the latter was so immersed in his daily 
business that I could scarcely get an opportunity of speaking 
with him. I went on as well as I could, & prepared the matter, 
corrected the proof of the first side, & returned it to the printer. 
The form was worked off yesterday afternoon. This morning 
Mr. J. found several things which he said must be altered — but it 
was too late. This brought an explanation, and it is now de- 
termined, that an hour shall be appointed when they are jointly 
to attend to the business. This will be a great relief to me. At 
2^^'cloek this afternoon they did indeed meet at the Printing 
Off. accompanied with 2 other members of the Com. to revise 
the matter prepared for the inside of the paper — and cut down 
a good deal of the manuscript laid before them — whether for 
better or worse, I cannot determine. At all events they have 
done something, and the paper will be published according to 
appointment. —When once begun, it must go on — Mr. J. wrote 
a few lines to precede my biograph. sketch of Mr. 0. — Mr. 
Bosson wrote the View of N. H. and the piece relating to the 
salubrity of this town & adjacent country — I wrote the head 
introducing the Song No. 1 and they say it ought to have been 
more full & explicit — but none of them presented this full & 
explicit statement. — I have mentioned these circumstances to 
show that we have not yet got into a regular train, though it will 
certainly, in 2 or 3 weeks, be established. I want Niles' Reg. to 
take his Summary of news. This will save time and trouble. 

I have several times been present when Mr. Schnee opened 
his mail & have sometimes assisted. Tomorrow he is going to 

T— 25 



386 Early Travels in Indiana. 

make up his quarterly accounts & he wants me to be with him 
tho' I know he can do it as well without as with me for he is an 
intelligent man of business. His Acct. of Mails Received will 
occupy 2| pages.— Adieu! — [Wm. Pelham] 

Monday Oct. 3, 1825. 
My dear Wm. * * * 

Friday evg. was a bustling time in the printing office. 
The paper was expected with great impatience by the town 
subscribers (who nocked in at $1 per ann.) besides whom a number 
were to be prepared for the E. [Eastern] mail which closes at 
9 o'clock P. M. However we got through the business pretty 
well, as we have a set of people to deal with very different from 
the Zanesvillians or Lunarians, as they ought to be called. * * * 

Yesterday morning I was prevented by circumstances from 
shaving and dressing myself till the second bell rung for meeting. 
I was unwilling to be absent and -finally at the instigation of 
Wm. Owen I, determined to go as I was, viz. with a long beard, 
dirty shirt and cravat and my little short coat which is the coat 
I most commonly wear when the weather is warm. 

Mr. Jennings began with reading something from a late 
publication on Political Economy, after which he delivered an 
excellent discourse on Equality : — shewing that it was essential 
to the happiness of society, as all arbitrary distinctions and par- 
tialities not founded on real merit, and all distinctions arising 
from extravagance in dress and external appearance have no 
solid foundation — that every person's worth should be measured 
by his capacity to be useful to his fellow beings. Many ladies 
were present, some of whom were fashionably dressed and dec- 
orated with ribbons and artificial flowers. I suspect that some 
of them did not quite approve of his remarks. 

On Friday I changed my boarding house that I might be 
better situated in regard to my connection with the printing] 
off [ice]. The house in which this office is located is also 
a boarding house, kept by Mr. Palmer, the printer. On one side 
of the office which is a large room on the ground floor a long table 
is placed at which the boarders (about thirty) — receive their 
meals which are punctually on the table at a quarter past 7 A. M. 
a qr. past 12 noon, and a qr. past 6 P. M. The price of boarding 
everywhere in town (except the Tavern) is 57 \ cents per week 
for each person, being a member. This table is better supplied 
with butcher's meat and vegetables than the one I have just left, 



William Pelham. 387 

but not so well supplied with milk just now. You may easily 
imagine what a contract there must be between the talk and bustle 
of so many boarders, and that of the four persons which formed 
our meal parties at the baker's. The first day or two, I was 
almost stunned with the noise, but I am getting used to it. Anoth- 
er thing I am getting used to is the shrill note of the cricket in my 
bed room which I have no possible means of getting rid of. There 
are so many and such important circumstances to counter- 
balance the inconveniences I suffer that I may say "Upon the 
whole, I am very well satisfied." 

Wednesday 5th. 

Yesterday evening being the regular dancing evening a num- 
ber of ladies appeared at the ball in a new uniform dress of cheap 
American manufacture. I was prevented from seeing this ex- 
hibition by having to read a proof-sheet which I did not get till 
after dark. As soon as I had performed this duty I sallied out 
with the intention of going to the Hall. As soon as I got out of 
doors I perceived that the Church also was lighted up, and as it 
lay in my way I called there first and found about twenty 
devotees listening to the ranting of a stranger who occupied the 
pulpit, and who was holding forth with great strength of voice 
about the "scribes and Pharisees." I did not sit down, and only 
remained a few minutes. Having heard as much about these 
gentlemen of the ancient world as I desired, I proceeded to the 
ball-room, but too late to gratify my curiosity with the sight of 
the new dresses. — The west door of the Church and the e [ast] 
door of the Hall are about 10 feet apart. — 

My best wishes attend you all. Wm. Pelham. 

P. S. The impression of No. 1 consisted of 500 copies of which 
300 have been distributed to subscribers and others. 

Monday 10" of Oct. 1825. 
Yesterday according to my new custom, I went punctually 
to Church, and heard Mr. Jennings continue the reading of select 
portions of Thompson's Essay on the distribution of wealth. 
The author shews distinctly, that a very considerable part of the 
evils suffered in Society may be traced to the unequal, and unjust 
division of property, and that this again may be attributed to the 
principle of individual competition. He then contrasts with this 
the social system, from whence this principle is banished, with all 
its train of evils, and the principle of mutual co-operation sub- 



388 Early Travels in Indiana. 

stituted with all its necessary consequences. After the reading, 
the male and female children of the society sung the song No. 2. 
If I can get the music I will send it to you. Mr. J. then expa- 
tiated on his favorite topics, equality, economy, and good feel- 
ings toward one another. At the close of the discourse, he was 
requested by one of the members to give notice that at 3 P. M. 
there would be preaching in the Church. This he readily did, 
and with clue respect. Accordingly, as I understand, for I did not 
attend, the Revd. Mr. Slocum a Methodist preacher delivered a 
very edifying sermon, that is to say, a sermon full of words and 
phrases quite unintelligible both to the speaker and his hearers — 
all of whom have probably persuaded themselves that they fully 
understand as well as profess to believe such things. In the even- 
ing the weather being warm and clear, many were assembled as 
usual before the door of the Tavern, (which is a sort of Literary 
Exchange) — where, seated on chairs and benches, we discussed 
with mutual respect, and perfect freedom, the various ideas of 
religion entertained by each — and here we sat and talked of God, 
the soul, eternity, matter, spirit, &c. &c. (without thinking of 
anything to drink) till after the Tavern doors were closed, which 
is always done at 10 o'clock. * * * 

Adieu, my dear Wm. and remember me kindly to all friends. 
I must now close and begin reading the proof of the inside of our 
No. 3. Wm. Pelham. 

P. S. A letter dated Aug. 7 has just been reed, from Capt. 
McDonald, a member of the Community who accompanied Mr. 
Owen, stating their arrival at Liverpool, and the expectation that 
they will be ready about the first of October to embark on their 
return. 

New Harmony, Ind. 
Friday, 21 Oct. 1825. 
My dear Son, 

My time, during the present week has been so fully occupied, 
that I had none left to continue my journal, though several little 
things have occurred which might be interesting to you — for 
instance the mustering and appearance of our Light Infantry 
company and their marching out of town 5 miles to the ground 
appropriated to this object according to law. 

Yesterday I had the satisfaction of seeing Messrs. Keightly 
and Harris in good health and spirits after a journey of 14 days 
having left Zanesville on the 6th inst. * * * They have this 



William Pelham. 389 

morning been accepted by the Committee as members of the 
Society and consequently each will have his board at one of the 
boarding houses (or as they are here called Community houses) 
at the rate of 57^ cents a week. The wages, or pay, or allowance 
(call it what you will) is proportionately low so that it amounts 
to this simple fact, that whoever serves the Society faithfully 
and diligently whatever his occupation may be, gets his living 
and no more. If he has children they are also provided for; 
either by his labor or their own if capable of earning anything, 
but if not then they are provided for by the Community till they 
are capable of being useful. This is merely a hasty sketch which 
I will enlarge upon one of these days when I have more time. 
I can only add that if any man should come here to board, with- 
out doing anything deemed useful, he must make an individual 
agreement with the Committee, for we want no idlers of any descrip- 
tion, and several persons of this sort have already been dismissed, 
and many more will find it expedient to retire, leaving behind 
them the best part of the present population, whom nothing 
could induce to abandon the pleasing prospects before them. * * * 

Your truly affectionate father, 

Wm. Pelham 

[P. S.] I will again revert to Harris and Keightly. After intro- 
ducing them to the Committee individually and collectively I 
went with them in search of board and lodging as they wished to 
leave the Tavern as soon as possible. After going about a good 
deal we found an unoccupied garret, — in one of the Community 
houses — similar to mine, that is to say, no ceiling but the outside 
roof, but better than mine both in extent and walls, theirs being 
brick, and mine merely a shell of weather boarding. Without 
actual experience, one cannot realize the difficulty of getting 
house-room in this place. K [eightly] with his warm zeal is 
satisfied with his location and all concomitant inconveniences 
and privations. H [arris] is not quite so well contented, but 
as soon he begins to experience the beneficial change he has made 
as respects Society, he will be as well satisfied as any of us. A 
double feather bed has been procured — Keightly will make a 
bedstead — the store will furnish him with a bed cord — blankets 
must be had somehow. Keightly will be or is already I believe 
attached to the carpenter's shop and Harris will on Monday next 
be employed in the counting room at the store. 

[P. S.] This is Tuesday night (Oct. 25th) warm and rainy. After 



390 Early Travels in Indiana. 

supper, (the time of which is uniformly 6 o'clock) I called at the 
Tavern to see K [eightly] and H [arris]. They were both 
gone to the ball * * * . I then came home to my lodging, and here 
I am in my shell, surrounded by boards, carpenters' tools, shav- 
ings, sawdust &c. for the Committee, on my proposing to them 
the alternative of burying me, or making my room comfortable 
this winter very readily embraced the latter alternative and gave 
me the command of the carpenter's department so far as this 
was necessary for wood-work. I am also to have bricks, brick- 
layers &c. to fill in between the studs, and I have now a certain 
prospect of being very commodiously situated during the winter 
exactly in the location which of all others I prefer, for I should 
very reluctantly quit the quarters I have occupied ever since my 
arrival here. * * * 

Thursday Morning. 
Mr. Keightly has just called to inform me that he and Harris 
have concluded to return immediately to Zanesville. He will 
take charge of this letter accompanied by a pamphlet just warm 
from the N. Harmony Press. I beg you will read and study it. 
They are not yet made up. I shall endeavor to send you more 
copies in sheets for sale 25 cents each. 

November 7", 1825, Monday. 
My dear Son, 

* * * You enquired how my postage acct. is settled here, I 
answer that all unpaid letters are charged in my pass book among 
other charges. In the same book I have credit for my services 
at per week. I have yet said nothing about the rate of allow- 
ance, but suppose it will be SI. 54 per week, this being the allow- 
ance to each member of the Comee. Soon after my arrival I 
deposited in the store $10 & have this day made an additional 
deposit of $20— both sums being credited to me in the books of 
the store as well as in my pass-book. These deposits have left 
me $7— which I still have in cash. I have taken up articles & 
pd for work $10.36 — The pamphlets I sent you by Keightly are 
likewise charged in my pass-book and also $1.50 for which I 
became responsible to Mr. Pearson for work done for Messrs. 
Harris & Keightly while they were here & which was forgotten in 
the hurry of their departure. By this sketch you will see that 
my funds decrease but slowly. * * * Nor do I believe that any 
temptation whatever could induce me to quite this tranquil scene. 



William Pelham. 391 

If I suffer inconveniences here they are accompanied with such 
alleviating circumstances as greatly deminish their effect. 

I cannot help again reiterating the advice I gave you to come 
here as soon as possible * * *. There is a great number of young 
persons here of both sexes in this place, and I plainly see that they 
enjoy themselves and the society of each other, their labor is 
moderate and easy, and their recreations frequent and innocent. 
In short they please themselves, and generally if not always please 
one another. * * * You are aware, that reading written accounts 
of the circumstances of any place cannot supply the place of actual 
inspection. In order to form an accurate judgment you must 
actually see it, and converse on the spot with intelligent residents. 
K [eightly] & H [arris] have been here, the former is too 
flighty and his stay too short to form a distinct perception — 
and the latter is too querulous to be happy any where, for every 
place has its inconveniences and his temper of mind leads him to 
dwell upon these and overlook the counterbalancing advantages. 
Besides the poor fellow was tormented with a boil which entirely 
deprived him of whatever comfort he might otherwise have en- 
joyed. There is not a shadow of doubt in my mind that after 
five or six month's residence here it would be an exceeding diffi- 
cult matter to induce you to remove elsewhere, and more espe- 
cially to Z [anesville.] You may call this enthusiasm, if you 
please, but the real differences between this place and Z. will still 
exist in all their force, and certainly you must allow me to be a 
tolerable judge of them, from my having resided in both. The 
approaching winter will doubtless bring its additional inconven- 
iences, and so will the spring, and so will the following summer, 
the chief of which is the want of house room. 

I am now sitting (Tuesday night 11 o'clock.) in my room 
which has lately been filled in with brick and otherwise rendered 
a comfortable dwelling and my prospects during the ensuing- 
winter are almost wholly agreeable. * * * 

Respecting an establishment like this there must necessarily 
be a great variety of opinions and sentiments, and predictions, 
but you will find that those who have given the least attention to 
the subject are the most confident in prophesying its dissolution. 
Let them say what they will, you may feel assured of its perma- 
nency, and it is the unqualifies opinion of every intelliegent man 
here. For my own part, I have not the least doubt that the 
present inconveniences will gradually be supplanted by cir- 



392 Early Travels in Indiana. 

cumstances tending to promote and perpetuate the happiness of 
those who embrace the System. 

Wed. Morn. 11 o'clock. 

Smart frost last night. Weather now moderate & pleasant. 
I have just retd. from printg. O. 218 steps from thence to the door 
of my lodging * * *. There are no settled preachers of the 
Gospel here — but traveling preachers very frequently call and 
refresh the flock with the words of grace. 

With regard to the new village all that I can say is that the 
brickmakers — I know not how many — are constantly employed 
in preparing that material. 

New Harmony, Sunday Nov. 27, 1825. 
My dear son. 

* * * I shall now endeavor to answer all the questions in your 
last letter, tho it contains some that I think were anticipated in 
my last. When I said "whoever serves the society faithfully and 
diligently, whatever his occupation may be, gets his living and no 
more'' I meant that all ideas of individual wealth are banished 
from among us. If any chooses to earn more than his individual 
expenses, the surplus profits remain in common stock to be appro- 
priated by the whole Society in whatever manner they please, 
for the good of the whole. This community being established on 
the principle of equal benefits and enjoyments, it is obviously 
different from our former plans of accumulating wealth for in- 
dividual expenditure. Every one will enjoy an equal share with 
every other member, of the immense benefits produced by mutual 
cooperation. That this will be the ultimate effect of the System 
I have not the least doubt, though at present it is not exactly so, 
because it is impossible in the circumstances of the present 
establishment. You can hardly expect that in the heterogenous 
population hastily collected here, there shd be no idlers, no specu- 
lators &c, the most effectual measures are however in active 
operation to make a just discrimination and the certain effect 
will be the withdrawal or expulsion of those who came here to 
live upon the labors of others. This preliminary society cannot 
be considered as a fair sample of the perfect community in view, 
because it consists of persons differing much from each other in 
their tempers and inclinations, whereas the new community will 
consist of select characters actuated by feelings of common interest. 
At present there are many wants that cannot be immediately 
provided for, and the greatest of these is the want of suitable 



William Pelham. 393 

accommodation. For this reason the twenty persons you men- 
tion as coming from Pittsburg will have to retrace their steps, 
there is actually not house room for them. Keep it in mind, 
however, that my room is large enough for us both. All the con- 
versations I heard in Zanesville, and the letters I have reed, 
since about this place relate to pay. In fact, no one here talks 
about pay. The Committee in their endeavor to equalize the 
members fixed the allowance of credit to each at 80 dollars a year 
which it was supposed wd be sufficient for his maintenance — ■ 
but the principle, the main principle is that every grown person 
is able to earn his living, and if he feels disposed to earn more, 
the surplus, after every reasonable expenditure for individual 
comfort to every member is applied to the extension of similar 
establishments. This is the ultimate view — but the immediate 
object is for each member to do all he can to provide a fund from 
which he in common with others will derive all the enjoj'inents he 
requires, and it is calculated that a very moderate portion of labor 
will be abundantly sufficient for this. — • 

You want to know how the acct. stands between Mr. Owen & 
the Society. It is simply thus: Mr. Owen has advanced his 
own money for the purchase of this property. Just before his 
departure he made an offer of it to the Society on their own terms, 
which they declined, preferring that it should still continue to be 
his. He is therefore evidently sole proprietor of the whole; but 
it is equally evident that it will ultimately be the property of the 
whole Society, and that, as soon as the individuals find them- 
selves competent to conduct the concern on the principles which 
brought them together. They have ever since his departure been 
endeavoring to make such arrangements as to produce the bene- 
fits in contemplation. Most of these plans have succeeded, but 
some have also failed, for the want of requisite practical knowledge. 
A general sentiment prevailes that "things will go on better soon 
after the return of Mr. Owen" who, it is expected' will be here in a 
week or ten days. It would surprise you to hear the universal 
expression of the fullest confidence in the wisdom and integrity 
of Mr. Owen — he is certainly a most extraordinary man or he 
could never thus have attached him — to him so great a variety 
of characters as compose this population without a dissenting 
voice, as far as I know. This is not blind enthusiasm in me for 
I know the fact, and I know the greater part of these people have 
been personally acquainted with him. When I see him you shall 
have the result of my cool, candid observation. 



394 Early Travels in Indiana. 

"If a person joins, and invests, say $500 — when he shd wish 
to retire can he get his cash again?" This is one of your questions. 
I read it to Mr. Lewis the Secretary of the Committee. He im- 
mediately answered "Yes, certainly!" "Does he draw interest?" 
"No Mr. Owen does not "want to borrow." When a person 
retires who puts nothing into the common stock whatever balance 
may be due to him for his time & labor will be paid to him in the 
products of the establishment — the profits arising from his labor, 
if any, will be merged in the common stock, for the benefit of those 
who remain. It is not an easy matter to ascertain profits, in fact, 
there is no profit till the article manufactured be sold, and the 
money actually received. "Is there any chance for another 
butcher?" Not immediately; unless he could sleep in a hay loft. — 
"Should John Sockman join, what would he have to do?" — "and 
what pay?" We know nothing about pay. It is a term used only 
among you of the old world, and confined wholly to the selfish, 
individual system. Every one here who employs himself usefully 
has meat, drink, lodging — (when it can m be got)' — and is con- 
tinually increasing his comforts. If sick he receives the neces- 
sary attendance. If he has children they are provided for. We 
have so saddler, nor is there any place for one to lodge in. This is 
a general answer to all inquiries and will continue so until some 
houses can be built. * * * "I do not at all like the account you 
give of your lodging room." My last letter will have informed 
you that it is not quite comfortable, tho still somewhat inferior to 
the front room &c. Everybody who comes into it exclaims 
"How comfortably you are fixed here." "How does the new village 
come on?" Not so fast as we wish, but as well as can be expected. 
The brickmakers have been at work on the spot during the whole 
summer and have made 240,000. 

The dismal story you copied from the Pittsb[urg] Mercury 
was already known here, and the writer is also known. He is a 
Baptist preacher I heard him preach just after my arrival, and he 
went away displeased because Mr. Jennings out-preached him. 
I w d recommend to you to read in the Gazette if you want to know 
the truth of things- — read the "View of Harmony." The Lab- 
yrinth has not been destroyed, but it has been neglected as of 
little comparative importance. * * * "What are the hours of 
business, summer and winter?" I am not sure about the working 
hours. The bell rings at six o'clock in the morning, but I believe 
few persons go to work till the eight o'clock bell rings. From this 
hour they continue till the 12 o'clock bell, at 1 the bell again rings 



William Pelham. 395 

and the working hours continue till 6 when the supper bell is rung. 
There is no job work — i.e. no person is paid by the job. When 
jobs are done in any department for country people or strangers — 
the superintendent of the department receives the cash and pays 
it into the store, and the department (be it the printing, tailoring, 
shoemaking &c department) is credited for the amount. * * * 
The "parade ground appropriated by law." This was an inad- 
vertance of mine — the law does not appropriate any parade ground 
The general muster is held at a place five or six miles from hence, 
and all our military marched to that spot on the day appointed — 
this was what I ought to have said. Apropos — Our Light In- 
fantry Co. & some other companies in full uniform are now, 
(Sund[ay] afternoon,) parading in the street under the command 
of their Major the Revd. Mr. Jennings, who is an active and intelli- 
gent military officer — He preached in the forenoon in the Church, 
and this afternoon appeared on horseback in his military dress to 
exercise the troops. The L. I. Co. make a good appearance being 
all properly armed, accoutred, and uniformed, they number about 
40 all young men. * * * 

You wd probably like to know how we go on with the paper. 
I therefore add to this long letter a few items on that subject. 
On the 20th inst. we reconed 116 Subd. in town at $1, the members 
being charged only half price. 4 sent to the Reading Room. 2 
to the Tavern and 1 to the Committee, making 123 delivered in 
town. 175 forwarded by mail to Sub. and Prs. viz. 



Pennsylvania 


lis. 


7 prs. 


Conn 


. . . . Is. 


1 pr. 


Indiana 


27s. 


5 prs. 


Ill 


....20s. 


1 pr. 


Kent'y 


7s. 


3 prs. 


Maryl'd 


Is. 


4 prs. 


Mass 


3s. 


lpr. 


Delaware 


. . . . Is. 


1 pr. 


Missouri 


3s. 




Tennessee 


.... 4s. 




Maine 


Is. 










N.York 


7s. 


4 prs. 
14 prs. 


Scotl'd&Eng 


.... 6s. 


lpr. 


Ohio 


15s. 


Virg'a 


Is. 


lpr. 


D. Col 


8s. 


4 prs. 


N. Jersey 


.... 2s. 


1 pr. 


N.Carol 




1 pr. 


Louisiana 


.... Is. 


lpr. 


Mississi 


Is. 




Alabama 


.... Is. 





2 Reading rooms at Cincinnati, 1 at Louisville, Alegheny and Y. Springs 
associations 2, total, 298. Since the 20 inst., 15 new subscribers abroad 
have been added to the list & every mail brings some. Papers reed, last 
Thursday were : 

Reformer, Crisis, Ohio Repub. Nov. 2, Niles Reg. Times, Chillicothe, 
Ohio; State Jour. Col. Louisville Advertr., Dayton Repub., Vevay Regr., 
Hamilton Advocate, Marietta Friend, Athens Mirror, Lancaster O. Eagle, 
with a request fr Mr. Detrich of exch. addressed to me, Cleaveland Herald, 



396 Early Travels in Indiana. 

Ind. Repub., Madison, Vincennes W. Sun, Bait. Gazette, Bait. Dutch Paper, 
Delaw. Watchman, Wilmingtonian, Alb. Patriot, Traveller Boston, these are 
all addressed to the Gaz. — Cincinn also sends us Lib. Hall & N. Repub., 
Bloomington, Ind. Gazette, Georgetown Sentinal. These are all directed to 
the Gaz. besides which the followg. directed to individual: N. Intell., N. 
Journal, Wash. Metropolitan, Geo. T. Sat. Evg. Post, Globe and Emerald, 
Boston Cent, U. S. Gaz. daily. 

The day of publication is changed to Wednesday which is a 
more convenient time than Saturday. News is a secondary 
object, the first being to disseminate a correct knowledge of the 
principles, practice, and local affairs of this Society. Wm. Owen 
appears to me to possess a better knowledge of the principles than 
any other person here, and his pieces are therefore the most inter- 
esting. His 2 articles in the 2 papers No. 7 & No. 8 preceding 
the last on the formation of character are peculiarly so. * * * 

I wish you Mould frequently insert in the O. Rep. some ex- 
tracts from the N. H. Gaz. particularly the editorial remarks in 
No. 7 & 8 on the formation of character, with any other selections 
calculated to excite the minds of your readers to the exercise of 
their reasoning faculties. The world has been long enough and 
too long under the dominion of passion and prejudice, and it is 
time that reason shd have fair play. Perhaps while I think 
of it, I cannot give you a more striking illustration of the prin- 
ciples and practice of this Society than by citing Mr. Schnee as 
an example, he is Postmaster, Committee-man, Superintendent 
of the farms, and principle agent in the selling department of the 
store, and yet his nominal allowance in money is $1.54 per week 
for all his services put together. If he takes a boarder, 64 cents 
a week (it has lately been a little increased) — is added to his 
credit, and charged to the boarder. He has a wife and two or 
three sons, two of whom are capable of earning something which 
is also added to their joint credit unless they choose to have 
separate pass-books. They occupy a snug dwelling house, yard 
and garden, and find their allowance sufficient for their mainte- 
nance because they are all frugal and industrious. If they were 
to determine on a removal, their pass-books would be closely and 
critically examined in the Committee. If it appeared that they 
have been prudent and economical and a balance still exists 
against them further allowance will be made, so as to balance the 
acct, on the principle that the services of every industrious, 
prudent man are equal to the necessary expenses of his living. 
If on the contrary it should appear that they came here to specu- 
late on the industry of others by running in debt at the store for 



William Pelham. 397 

articles not necessary but merely to accumulate property or in- 
dulge idle fancies, whatever balance there might be against them 
would be rigidly exacted in money or labor. This is evidently a 
just and necessary precaution against subjecting the better part 
of the society to the impositions of scheming speculators who 
might otherwise come here with the view of staying a few months, 
accumulating property at the expense of the industrious whom 
they leave behind them after having unworthily enjoyed all the 
advantages of membership. Some cases of this kind have occurred 
and the parties have gone away, highly displeased with the 
Society, because they were disappointed in their schemes of 
plunder. Others have withdrawn because their sectarian notions 
in religion were not -prevalent here — others again, because their 
ambition and self-importance were not estimated according to 
their own ideas — others again to look after their private affairs, 
which they had hastily abandoned in their eagerness to enjoy 
advantages which they did not give themselves time to study and 
understand. Thus you see that the Society is gradually becom- 
ing a select one, fitted to the purpose originally contemplated 
by its founder. 

In the case of Mr. Schnee which I have cited as an example 
of the operation of the system, you must not imagine that he is 
actuated by any unworthy motives; for his devotion to the system, 
and high standing among us are unquestionable. He is one of 
the most active, intelligent, and useful members, and is perfectly 
happy in his present situation. 

Wednesday evening. 

Two of the Shakers from Kentucky arrived today to join the 
Society, I suspect they will not be able to find lodgings, and will 
therefore be obliged to return, or go somewhere else. 

As Mr. S. will not agree to reduce the postage to 18f I have 
endeavored to give you 25 cents in quantity and quality. I am 
sure you will be satisfied with the former, whatever you may 
think of the latter. 

Friday morning. 

* * * The Baltimore Gaz. reed, yesterday evg. contains an 
acct. of the arrival of Mr. Owen and his son Robert Dale Owen 
and Capt. McDonald. They are impatiently expected here. — 
A great military parade yesterday afternoon and a splendid 
military ball in the evening at the Hall. — A great number of stran- 



398 Early Travels in Indiana. 

gers in town. Weather continues fine, though somewhat sharp 
this morning. Yr truly aff father, 

Wm. Pelham. 

New Harmony, 
Dec. 9th, 1825. 
Friday Evg. 8 o'clock. 
My dear William — 

* * * The last mail brought forty six newspapers for the 
Gazette with 4 or 5 new applications for exchange. In some of 
them I perceive Mr. O'S [Owen's] address to "Americans" 
written on his passage. Mr. Wm. Owen also reed, a letter from 
his father dated N. York Nov. 10 in which he says he shall be 
here as soon as possible. By the tenor of the address, however, 
I suspect it will not be possible until he has spent 2 or 3 weeks 
at Washington City in erecting the model, and explaining his 
System to the Members of Congress. * * * 

Your truly affectionate father, 

Wm. Pelham. 

December 27, 1825. 
Tuesday Evening. 
My Dear Son. 

* * * The weather, for several days, has been so cold and the 
days so short, that I could scarcely do more than make out a 
hasty summary for the paper, and keep myself tolerably warm — 
I long for the return of warm, pleasant weather. My room, 
now it is filled in, is a very tolerable winter room, it was pleasant 
enough last summer, but will be more so next season. Mr. Owen 
has not yet arrived, though expected daily. In the mean time 
many things continue unsettled, and must remain so until his 
return. 

For the last three weeks we have heard a great deal about a 
numerous assemblage of Methodists expected in this place on the 
24th & 25th inst. These days are passed, but only about fifteen 
or twenty came, including one preacher. On enquiring of one of 
the brethern how this happened, he informed me that a report 
was circulated in the country that the Committee had refused 
them the use of the Church, though it is a notorius fact that the 
Committee very readily granted them the Church for the exer- 
cise of their religious worship. This is a specimen of the means 
resorted to, in order to injure the reputation of the Harmonians. 



William Pelham. 399 

Facts are distorted & misrepresented, and when facts are wanting 
for this purpose, malevolent ingenuity can easily fabricate them. 

Since I became a member of this Community I have uni- 
formly experienced every kindness that could reasonably be 
expected under the circumstances at present existing. No doubt 
there is much inconvenience, but it is in fact unavoidable, con- 
sidering the hasty manner in which we have been assembled. 
Time, patience, and perseverance will gradually remove all 
difficulties. It is supposed, that on the arrival of Rob. D. Owen 
(now daily expected) the boarding school will be the first object 
of attention — that it will be reorganized under the superinten- 
dence, with the assistance of Mr. Fiquepal, Madam Fretageot & 
several other teachers on the Pestalozzian plan & we shall probably 
have Neef among us. 

The routine of duty in preparing the articles for the paper is 
still unsettled, and will probably continue so, until Mr. Owen's 
arrival. At present, it is thus; Mr. [Wm.] 0[wen] & Mr. J[en- 
nings] prepare all the editorial articles & decide on the extracts 
to be made from the papers we receive. I make the Summary of 
news & submit it to their revision; the greater part of which is 
accepted, & some rejected. Mr. Palmer executes the mechanical 
part, pretty much in his own way. The summary of news, 
keeping the accounts of subscribers, and aiding Mr. P. in making 
up the mails seems to have fallen to my share, and, during the 
present season, is full as much as I want. But this department, 
as well as the others will undergo a full examination when Mr. 
0[wen] arrives, and I have every reason to believe that the 
management of the library will be committed to me, which I 
should be much better pleased with. It is said that Mr. 0[wen] 
has shipped for New Orleans a large collection of books for the 
contemplated library. 

On Sunday last, our military men as usual were paraded before 
the door of the Tavern, from whence they marched a little way 
out of town for the purpose of drilling, as usual, under the command 
of Mr. Jennings, who is certainly an excellent disciplinarian, & 
well acquainted with military tactics. This drill on Sunday will 
no doubt be called a profanation of the Sabbath, as all other 
Sunday Schools are, whether they be literary, or military. It is 
at least evident that, if a Sunday School for military instruction 
is a profanation, the other for clerical purposes are not less so. 



400 Early Travels in Indiana. 

Wednesday Evg. — 

The regular town meeting is held this evening to hear the 
weekly proceedings of the Committee read, according to custom. 
I have not attended one of these meetings, or attended the Sunday 
lecture since the cold weather set in, for in fact I cannot risk my 
health so far — still, I must contrive someway or other to hear 
Mr. Owen when he returns. He will have some errors to correct, 
and many things to adjust. Among others, the affairs of the 
printing office, I hope I shall then have some specific duty assigned 
to me, for the present, unsettled state of things is very unpleasant 
to me. It seems to be the unanimous sense of the Comee. that the 
library shall be my destination, than which nothing cd be more 
agreeable to me — but as yet we have no books. Mr. Wm. 0[wen] 
told me this evening that his father has shipped at N. York a 
valuable collection which will be here via New Orleans about the 
middle of Feb. (he thinks) but I do not expect to see them till 
April. I shd be glad if the books you have packed up cd be here 
about the same time. 

Thursday Evg. Dec. 29,-6 P. M. 

I have just reed, your paper of Deer. 10th with Niles Reg. of 
the 3rd. — This mail brot 2 letters from Wm. Blagrove, one of 
which contained a list of 11 subscribers he had obtained in New 
York. He is delighted with the System and severely regrets that 
his entanglements with Old Society prevents his enjoying the 
benefits of it — as yet — Mr. Jennings lately said that he was per- 
suaded, if he were sent as a Missionary abroad, he would soon 
collect 30,000 persons desirous of joining the Society & really, I 
think he would come near the mark. I have just heard that the 
Yellow Spring association has "blown out." I am not surprised 
at this for on its commencement I anticipated a blundering 
business, as John Sheward will testify. When we talked of that 
place, I constantly said "I will go to Head Quarters." Sheward 
will confirm this altho he cd not then coincide with me. 

Mr. Owen has not yet arrived, but we have certain accounts 
of his being on the road. — -You can hardly conceive the impatience 
with which he is expected. I just think of mentioning that we 
have very few old men — there is only one man here older than my- 
self, Mr. Lewis, the Secretary, is about fifty, lively and active. Dr. 
McNamee, about the same age, Mr. Bosson abt 35, Mr. Schnee 
perhaps the same, Mr. Jennings I should think 30 — Judge Wattles 
30, Wm. Owen probably 25, but in education, experience & general 



William Pelham. 401 

knowledge not less than 35. Still we are much in want of farmers, 
mechanics and laborers. 

New Harmony, Ind. Jan. 6, 1826. 
Friday Afternoon 
My dear Son, 

Yesterday evening I reed your acceptable favor of Dec. 18th 
with the O. Repub. of the 17th. It seems you are puzzles about 
our mails, — and so am I. — Mr. Schnee told me a few days ago 
that letters and papers arrive sooner here when they come via 
Vincennes! than by any other route, altho' Vincennes appears to 
be abt 55 miles out of the direct way — he told me yesterday 
eveng that since the P. 0. at Lancaster had become a distributing 
office the packet for Harmony is now made up there instead of 
Louisville as heretofore. * * * 

Mails again. Our Eastern mail carries all letters & papers 
directed to Princeton, Ind. Vincennes — Paoli — & Evansville, all 
along this side of the river to Albany, where it crosses to Louis- 
ville. The E. Package contains also letters to a large portion of 
Kentucky as well as all places eastward. The western mail goes 
to Mt. Vernon crosses the Ohio & proceeds to the Western part 
of Ky. a great part of Illinois, all Tennessee &c. 

* * * You tell me Mr. Mills is preparing to go down the river 
in the spring, I shd be truly gratified to see him on his way, and 
I do not see any great difficulty — he can take passage in the steam 
boat from Cincinn. to Louisville, thence to Mt. Vernon, land 
there & easily get a conveyance to N. Harmony — stay here as 
long as convenient — return to Mt. Vernon where steamboats are 
continually passing up & down the river as long as the water is 
high enough. I pray you to present my kind remembrance to 
him & Mrs. Mills. 

If the Society has been injured by the withdrawing of some who 
did not know what they were about when they joined it, the 
injury cannot be very extensive, for the principles supported 
here are daily becoming more & more known & applications for 
admission are still more numerous than is desirable for the Com- 
mittee until better accommodations can be provided. There is 
no fear of the Society being dissolved for the want of persons 
heartily disposed to join us — the only difficulty is house room 
but this I know will be removed in a great measure during the next 
spring, summer, & autumn. You seem very desirous that Master 
Hill shd accompany you — will he be contented to lodge on the 



402 Early Travels in Indiana 

floor of my little room with you & myself? Danl Ferson will pay 
us a visit & I must endeavor to find some sort of lodging for him 
also. However, what is impracticable in this way during the 
cold season may not even be difficult in warm weather. 

I find you have noticed "Pumpkin Vine." He is our Tavern 
keeper, and a queer chap he is, forever amusing himself and others 
with odd, biting, cutting remarks on the missionary begging 
scheme — the Bible & tract speculations of the clergy, &c &c &c — 

I might perhaps be able to fill this sheet without fatiguing you, 
if I had the time, but I must hasten to a close, otherwise it cannot 
be sent by this mail. 

Why does not Mr. Peters send us some subscribers? I am 
afraid he does not bestir himself as some other of our agents do. 
Wm. Blagrove lately sent us 12 at a slap — & promised some 20 
or 30 more, all for No. 1. — No. 1 however is exhausted & there- 
fore we were obliged to commence with No. 2. — No 7 is also out 
but there is some talk of reprinting both nos — and the prospectus 
also for a subscription paper, for which applications are made by 
every mail. 

My dear Son — accept my tender & affectionate embrace. 

Wm. Pelham. 

Sunday afternoon, Jan. 8 1826. 
My dear William. 

On Friday last, I wrote you as long a letter as my time & 
engagements would permit & now I commence another in season, 
that I may have time to answer every point contained in yours 
of Deer. 11-18 which I may have overlooked. 

You cannot reconcile the apparent contradiction between 
Mr. Owen's advertising for so many mechanics, and the Com- 
mittee's rejecting applications for admission for want of room 
I will endeavor to explain it. On Mr. Owen's arrival at New 
York, the first news he heard of this place was that the settlement 
was broke up, and the members dispersed. Instead of this dis- 
couraging or disheartening him, the first thing he set about was 
to replenish the settlement with the population of the most use- 
ful kind, cost what it might. It was obvious, however, that before 
this could be done, the spring would be far advanced, and shifts 
might be made for lodging, which would be impracticable during 
the rigor of winter. 

Monday afternoon. When I had got thus far in my letter 
yesterday, two of my friends called in to see me, and we sat in my 



William Pelham. 403 

little "garrett" without a fire — (the weather now being uncom- 
monly, and unseasonably warm) conversing till nearly dark, 
when they left me & I repaired to Dr. McNamee's by previous 
invitation to supper. Here I found Mr. Lewis, Mr. Wm. Owen & 
a Mr. Atlee from Philadelphia, besides the Dr. & 3 or 4 ladies, 
besides the good lady of the house & her 2 daughters. The table 
was covered with a profusion of delicacies, excellent coffee, tea, 
cream, honey, sweetmeats, ham, sausage, &c &c in abundance — 
But I would not have you infer that this good cheer is found in 
every family in New Harmony, — the time has not yet arrived 
when all the members are to fare alike — though I really believe 
this will be the case in the new Community. In the meantime, 
contentment sweetens the cup of life, whatever it may contain. 
Now do not run to the other extreme, and imagine we are starved 
for this is not true, tho our privations are sometimes such as to 
test the strength of our principles. * * * 

After the enjoyment of a pleasant evening I came home about 
9 o'clock & soon after went to bed. 

I never see the Philadelphia Gaz. but from a humorous ex- 
tract which will appear in our next gazette, I should judge that it 
was not decidedly hostile. The Sat. Ev. Post comes regularly 
to us, According to your suggestion, I shall offer an exchange to 
the Western Carrier, Ravenna, O. * * * 

You make me laugh when you talk about "Pone Bread, & 
Musquetoes." The good book saith, "better is a crust of bread 
with contentment of mind, than the most sumptous fare where 
there is no love." I know I have not quoted exactly, but I have 
no bible at hand. Apropos; Do not forget to send me our family 
4to bible. Pone Bread & Musquetoes! How wonderfully 
efficient these will be in defeating the most feasible plan for im- 
proving the condition of mankind that was ever devised. 

Mr. Hill seems uncertain whether he will visit us or not. I 
hope you are not so, for I shall be truly disappointed, & grieved if 
you do not come. This expectation has a considerable share in 
keeping up my spirit — another source of comfort to me has been 
the uniform kindness of your expressions and the cheerful tone of 
your letters. * * * 

On looking over the list of articles (Nov. 7) packed up in the 
trunk, I perceive "Book for Map of the World — & U. S." I hope 
you will contrive to send me the large maps to which they refer. — - 
I see also that [you] have already packed up the Family Bible. 
The map belonging to Lewis & Clark is in a red leather 8to book 



404 Early Travels in Indiana. 

cover somewhere about the book shelves. — I had scarcely written 
the last word "shelves" when Mr. Palmer's young man brot me 
a proof of the outside of our next paper (i. e. — pages 1st, 4, 5 & 8th.) 
to be corrected. It contains some excellent matter — especially 
the "Gray Light No. 4" on the "Origin of evil;" a subject which 
has always puzzled the wisest heads in the world. There is like- 
wise a good letter signed "A Christian." I know not who is the 
writer of the letter, tho' I might know if I thought it worth the 
trouble of enquiring. The Grey Light is a communication from 
N. York by mail — I wish you would occasionally make extracts 
from our Gazette & especially the 2 Nos. of the "Grey Light." * * * 

I am at present, as I have been, a boarder (now at 64 cents a 
week) with my old friends the young baker, 22 years of age, & his 
young wife, about 20, where I am as comfortably situated with re- 
gard to diet as cd reasonably be expected. Their house is situated 
on the main street, about 200 yards from my lodging. We have 
no occasion to be governed by the ringing of the bell for meals, 
but I find it convenient for us all to take our breakfast at 8 — our 
dinner at | past 12 & our supper at dark. They have been uni- 
formly kind, & attentive to my convenience, & I believe we are 
mutually pleased with each other. * * * 

We have heard nothing yet from Mr. 0[wen] — the word how- 
ever now is, that the river havg risen considerably we shall hear 
his voice in the Steeple house next Sunday. 

The weather continues so warm that I have taken off 
two blankets from my bed. You may tell Mr. Harris that the 
Doctor's sick list contains about 20 names — and he will observe 
that is a much greater number than ever were sick at the same time 
in Zanesville or any where else except Harmony. — The force of 
prejudice is astonishing to those who have never attended to its 
effect on mental vision. I have lately reed, from Neef a curious 
letter on this subject. — 

Wednesday morng. The weather continues uncommonly 
warm, we have scarcely seen the face of the Sun for the last 6 or 
7 days, — the thermometer on Monday morn stood at 61 — and 
judging by my feelings it is about the same now. A good deal 
of rain has fallen — but the ground is now dry tho' the sky con- 
tinues cloudy? — If this warm weather continues much longer 
we may expect to hear some musqueto music. 

Wed. evg. — The weather has changed, and we have again 
enjoyed the splendid light of the sun — the evening is clear & the 
sky again presents a brilliant assemblage of stars. This is the 



William Pelham. 405 

evening on which our town meetings are weekly held, but they 
ceased to interest me as soon as the cold weather commenced. I 
prefer sitting here in my comfortable little room, and scribbling 
what may, or perhaps may not interest you. The report today 
was that Mr. Owen was actually seen yesterday at Mt. Vernon 
with a company of 32 persons on their way to Harmony. "A 
plague on all liars" say I — for if this had been true he would 
have been here by noon this day. * * * 

Upon looking over my pass-book just now I find a balance of 
$24.29 in my favor. — From this must be deducted the charge 
against me for washing, at the rate of 16 cents a doz. and for 
postage, since my franking privilege ceased. 

Thursday noon. The weather has again become sharp, cold 
and clear, and the glorious sun shines out most brilliantly — No 
news of Mr. 0[wen] yet. 

Friday morng. Cloudy again with rain & thunder! — I have 
the pleasure of saying that Mr. 0[wen] is here— he arrived yester- 
day evg. accompanied only by a Russian lady whom he acci- 
dently found somewhere below Stubenville on her way to New 
Harmony. An assembly of almost the whole population met 
in the Steeple house about 7 o'clock — Mr. 0[wen] entered & taking 
his stand in the pulpit expressed the pleasure and joy he felt to 
be among us. I have not time to give you a sketch of his dis- 
course which he soon closed. He earnestly recommended Unity 
& brotherly love. He said that he had left his company behind 
proceeding in a boat which contained more learning than ever was 
before contained in a boat. He did not mean Latin & Greek & 
other languages but real substantial knowledge. It contained 
some of the ablest instructors of youth that cd be found in the 
U. S. or perhaps in the world. I was pleased with his manner 
as well as his matter. I have not yet been introduced to him, 
preferring to wait till the bustle is over. He is to give a lecture 
next Sunday in the forenoon. In noticing his passing through 
Z. you do not say (in the 0. Republic) that he gave a lecture. 
I hope, however, you saw and spoke to him. 

Your truly affectionate father, 

Wm. Pelham. 

N. Harmony, Friday Jan. 27, 1826. 
My dear Son, 

Yesterday evening I reed your acceptable letter of Jan. 8 
with 2 Ravenna Papers but no O. Repub. At the same time I 



406 Early Travels in Indiana. 

reed, your long looked for letter of the 31st Oct!! which appears 
to have been missent to Peoria 111. and forwarded from thence on 
the 12th inst. * * * 

When I commenced writing this I intended, if possible to fill 
the sheet but I now begin to suspect it will not be in my power, 
for I have at this moment 4 visotors in my room, talking to me 
and to one another about the New Constitution which is about to 
be formed. As soon as this is accomplished this preliminary 
Society will be dissolved and we shall immediately commence a 
Cummunity of Equality & mutual cooperation. I would willingly 
give you some account of the proceedings which have already 
taken place with this view. Since his return Mr. Owen has de- 
livered frequent lectures, and yesterday evening a committee of 
7 was chosen by ballot to draw up a Constitution and a set of 
Rules & Regulations to be submitted to the Members of the present 
Society, article by article. Some of my friends thought proper 
to run me for this committee, and I received 44 purely unsolicited 
votes — the highest number for any person was 136 — (Mr. Owen 
himself) — and the lowest successful number of votes was 63. 
In fact I did not know (& cared not at all) — that my name was 
thought of, till yesterday about noon & I assure you I speak 
sincerely in saying that I am glad that the number of votes in 
favor of electing me did not reach the point of election. I was 
by no means desirous of being placed in the Committee. As 
soon as things are settled I will write you an acct. of them, unless 
I shall have the supreme satisfaction of seeing you here. Since 
the rect. of your letters I have had no time to read them attentive- 
ly, & my chief purpose in writing this is to inform you of their 
coining to hand. 

Wednesday night 10 o'clock. 

Since the date of the above I have been so constantly occupied 
that I have had no opportunity of continuing my journal for your 
information. Besides the weather has been so cold, that a great 
part of my time has been consumed in protecting myself against 
its effects. This day however, it has moderated considerably & 
I am now sitting in my room scribbling what I think may be 
interesting to you. 

This evening was appointed to report the draft of the Con- 
stitution prepared by the Committee appointed for that purpose. 
It is in print & I shall enclose a copy in the Gazette directed to 
the Ohio Repub. But you are to consider it as a proposal only 
not yet acted upon by the Society. A plan of Arrangement of 



William Pelham. 407 

the affairs of the Society was also presented to the meeting and 
ordered to be printed. If this be done in time I will also enclose 
that. The more I see of Mr. Owen the more I am convinced of 
his prudence, wisdom, integrity and enlarged benevolence. The 
purity of his views is unquestionable, whatever may be said by the 
enemies of the New Social System. Every article of this Con- 
stitution is to undergo a thorough investigation in a public 
assembly of the Society when the utmost freedom of speech is not 
only tolerated but solicited and encouraged. Young and old are 
equally invited to express their sentiments, and the common 
sense & common feeling of the Society decide on their propriety. 
This is a delightful state of society, and such as I have long enter- 
tained in idea, but never expected to see realized. It will yet 
be some time, perhaps a week or two before the Society will be 
able finally to determine on their constitution & code of laws. 

The persons who have lately arrived are Mr. Wm. Maclure of 
Philad. reputed to be immensely rich, and certainly devoted to the 
principles of this Society. I have had several interviews and 
conversations with him and his manners and sentiments are in 
direct opposition to those of all other wealthy men of whom I have 
any knowledge, excepting only Mr. Owen himself. Besides him 
we have Mr. Fiquepal & Madam Fretageot, both Pezzalozzian 
teachers, — Mr. LeSueur an eminent designer, Mr. Say, Dr. 
Troost, a distinguished mineralogist — and several other men of 
Science. Mr. MaClure has put into my hands a catalogue of 
French books and philosophical apparatus now at New Orleans 
on their way to this place amounting in value to 100,000 francs 
and weighing abt 50 tons. He wished me to make a fair transcript 
of the invoice in a book he had provided for the purpose. I shall 
find some difficulty in doing this for want of a good French dic- 
tionary — but I will accomplish it. 

Thursday Forenoon. 

By the last mail I reed, a letter from Neef, — he is anxious to 
be among us, but cannot yet bring matters to bear — Mr. MaClure 
told me yesterday that he wrote to him by the last mail, urging 
him to come on immediately whether he brings his family and 
movable property or not, and in the latter case to make arrange- 
ments for their following him, for that he was already a Member. 
This letter of Mr. MaClure's I expect will settle his mind, and we 
shall probably see him in a week or two. 

The plan of the proposed Constitution is in the hands of all 
the members, and will undergo a thorough investigation. My 



408 Early Travels in Indiana. 

mind during the last two weeks has been in a state of such con- 
stant excitement, as to be painful, and this you will easily conceive 
when you consider how inactive both in mind and body I have 
long been previous to my coming hither. I feel now that I want 
quietness and rest, and I scarcely expect any, until I am appointed 
Librarian which will in all probability be my permanent occu- 
pation. Mr. Owen and all the members of the Committee, be- 
sides a considerable part of the population appear to think ma 
most fitted for such employment, and it exactly squares with my 
own inclination. 

The bell is now ringing for dinner, immediately after which I 
must go the Printing Office & assist Mr. Palmer in making up at 
least 300 papers to be sent by mail. If I have the oppy. of making 
any addition to this letter I will embrace it, but I rather think it 
will not be in my power. The warm weather will soon return & 
I anxiously hope it will bring you along. — 

Thursday night. I have just inclosed in a wrapper seperate 
from the usual inclosure which Mr. Palmer directed to the "Ohio 
Repub. Zanesville, O." a duplicate No. 19 of the Gazette with the 
proposed Constitution & Plan of Arrangement. 

These are busy times. Meetings are held almost every night 
in the Steeple House; and at the farthest every second night the 
bell is rung at | past 6 and at 7 no vacant seat can be found.— 
I have hitherto attended them all — but this evening I shall take 
my rest, as I expect the business will chiefly be some verbal 
criticisms on the Constitution and proposals to amend the phrase- 
ology — Everyone gives his sentiments freely, and it is really 
remarkable that so little uninteresting matter is brought forward. 
Some of our mechanics are truly eloquent, and none absurd. 
It would be no amusement to you if I were to give you my crude 
remarks on the proposed constitution, for I have not had time 
to read it attentively, — but I certainly do anticipate some con- 
siderable alterations in the style of it. — Several other drafts will 
be offered to the consideration of the Society and which of them 
will ultimately be preferred, it is impossible at present to say. 

It is now between 8 & 9 & I shall go directly to bed — so, good 
night, my dear boy, & let me still cherish the hope of seeing you 
here when the season is favorable. 

Wednesday Feb. 8", 1826. 
My dear Son, 

The Constitution, of which I sent you a printed sketch, has 



William Pelham. 409 

undergone a thorough examination and discussion; and was 
recommitted to the Constitutional Committee who again reported 
it, with considerable alterations and amendments. After these 
were fully discussed, and some further amendments made the 
Society finally adopted a Constitution, which would have ap- 
peared in this day's paper, if it could have been prepared in season. 
There being no printed copy, I cannot present you with the articles. 
It has been transcribed into a book, and 300 names have already 
been subscribed to it. There will be very few, if any dissentients 
among the members of the Preliminary Society. 

This evening is appointed for the election of three important 
officers, viz. Secretary, Treasurer & Commissary, and it is ex- 
pected that the organization of the Community will be completed 
next week. Every department will be arranged so as to produce 
a united effort to furnish every practicable means of comfortable 
subsistence to every individual. Hitherto, there has been much 
irregularitjr of effort, the consequence of which nearly paralyzed 
the energies of the population, but at length I see the way clear, 
and I see the utter impossibility of such a state of things again 
recurring. The several parts of the great machine will be so ad- 
mirably adapted to each other, as to effect the most valuable 
purposes. The experience I have gained convinces me I was right 
in coming here, in preference to going to any of the Communities 
professedly formed on Mr. Owen's principles in other parts of 
the country. During the last 8 months the want of organization 
and arrangement has caused much perplexity and difficulty, and 
the introduction now of order and regularity into the several 
departments will be comparatively easy. I anticipate that in 6 
months the New Harmony machine will go like a piece of clock 
work. The preceeding errors are noted and will be avoided. 
In consequence of the great change which has been just made, 
I should not be surprised to see it announced in some of the 
Eastern papers, with great glee that Mr. Owen's visionary project 
on the banks of the Wabash has utterly failed, &c &c. tho nothing 
can be further from the truth — for in reality one third of it is 
accomplished — and we are just entering on the second 3d and the 
next step — (when we are prepared for it) will be into the Village 
of Equality and Independence. He is an extraordinary man — 
a wonderful man — such a one indeed as the world has never 
before seen. His wisdom, his comprehensive mind, his practical 
knowledge, but above all, his openness, candor & sincerity, have 
no parallel in ancient or modern history. Do not think I am 



410 Early Travels in Indiana. 

dreaming, for in fact, I have closely attended to his language and 
movements since his return. 

I earnestly expect to see you here early in the spring when you 
will have opportunity of seeing, of hearing & judging for your- 
self. There is now here a young married man from a distant 
part of this State. He came about a month ago and has resided 
at the Tavern at the expense of 3 dollars a week for himself and 
his horse. He has felt so deeply interested in the measures 
preparatory to the formation of the New Community that he 
could quit us until he saw its accomplishment. We have spent 
a good deal of time together & I expect he will shortly set out on 
his return for the purpose of bringing his wife & child & 4 other 
families who will accompany him, if he can obtain a previous 
assurance that they will be received. 

Thursday afternoon. — The election was not held yesterday 
evening, as I had expected it would be. It will probably take 
place this evening. It is generally thought that Mr. Lewis will 
be Secretary, and Wm. Owen Treasurer, the Commissary is rather 
more doubtful. 

There is — Thursday night — I have been to the P. 0. and got 
the 0. Repub. of Jany. 21, with letters from Col. Chambers, 
Mr. Harris and Mr. Neef & none from yourself. There seems to 
be a great improvement in the expedition of the mail. Col. C's 
letter is dated Jan. 22d & Mr. Harris' is dated 24th. Tho after 
all it seems to require 12 or 14 days to come fr. Z. to H. Neef s let- 
ter bears the postmark of Louisville Jan. 30". By the bye, do 
not omit to call at the P. 0. in Louisville on your way hither. 
You will -probably find a letter there tho I am not certain. If you 
can contrive to see Mr. Neef he would be most happy to meet 
with you. He has a daughter in Louisville whom yo*u may find by 
enquiring of my friend Mr. Taylor, the Post Office Clerk. Tell 
Col. Chambers I will not fail to answer all his inquiries as soon as 
possible, but he must not be impatient, for these are busy times 
for every one in New Harmony. If he will have patience till 
warm weather I shall better be able to satisfy him. The pro- 
ceedings of the Convention in forming the Community Constitu- 
tion with the Constitution itself will be in the next paper and I 
will send him a copy. I think I informed you, and I wish you 
would mention to Col. Chambers & Mr. Harris that soon after 
Mr. Owen's return he was followed by his son Robert Dale Owen, 
Dr. Price & Mr. Wm. MaClure of Philadelphia, Mr. Whitwell, 
Mr. LeSueur, Mr. Say, all men of extensive scientific knowledge, 



William Pelham. 411 

Mr. Fiquepal and Madam Fretageot first rate teachers on the 
Pestalozzian plan. There are now at New Orleans on their way 
hither a vast collection of books, philosophical apparatus & musical 
instruments weighing upwards of 50 tons & the freight of which 
will cost 10 to 1200 dollars. In Harmony there will be the best 
Library & the best School in the United States. 

10 O'clock P. M. — The election is again postponed till to- 
morrow evening, to give further time for the members to form 
their judgment. My own, indeed, is already formed, and I 
earnestly hope the election may fall on Mr. Lewis, Wm. Owen, 
and Richardson Whitby, who came here from a society of shakers 
in Kentucky, and brought with him a practical knowledge of the 
order and regularity, and system, by which that society has 
distinguished itself. This is an anxious time, — (not with a view 
to a final success and of our principles, which must infalliably 
succeed sooner or later) but with a view to the speedy accom- 
plishment of the purposes for which we are associated. It is 
therefore important that our first selection of agents be made with 
the greatest circumspection, and clue appreciation of the qualifica- 
tions of the persons choosen to carry into effect the principles 
which we advocate and support. Forseeing that I shall have no 
opportunity of continuing this letter tomorrow, and unwilling 
to send you any blank paper, I may as well endeavor to fill the 
remainder of my sheet with such matters as occur to me now. 

You will easily conceive the effect produced on the minds of 
our citizens when Mr. Owen, after some days examination of the 
State of things here, proposed the immediate formation of a 
Community of Equality and mutual cooperation. The subject 
was debated with the utmost freedom, which he encouraged by 
constant efforts to make every one speak his real sentiments 
wheather favorable or unfavorable to his proposal. After a full 
and verily, a free discussion the proposal was accepted, and we 
have since been constantly engaged in devising the means by 
which it can be effected. Next week after your receiving this you 
will see the constitution and plan of arrangement, and you will 
perceive that every feature bears the stamp of genuine democracy, 
not the false democracy of the office seekers of Zanesville. 

\ past ten. Mr. Bosson has just come in and brought me 
Mr. Peters' kind & affectionate letter of Jan. 16th. * * * Good- 
night, Dr William. Wm. Pelham. 



412 Early Travels in Indiana. , 

Feb. 23, 1826.— Friday. 
My Dear William — 

I have snatched up the first sheet of paper I could lay my hands 
on (for want of time to seek a better one) to acknowledge the re- 
ceipt of yours of Feb. 5 — 7, postmarked Feb. 7 which came to 
hand yesterday evening. I cannot at present enter into par- 
ticulars, but I have enquired about the Steamboat charges. The 
result is that from Cincinnati to Louisville the charge is probably 
4 dollars & from Louisville to Mt. Vernon 8 dollars — perhaps 
something less. 

Our affairs still remain in an unsettled state, the consequence 
of which is much inconvenience in a variety of ways. There is 
more to be done at once than can be to place things on the right 
footing. Three days ago Mr. Owen informed me that Mr. Jennings 
had declined the editorship of the paper any longer, and he, (Mr. 
Owen) wished me to undertake it. I answered him that I con- 
sidered that duty a very important one, and I did not conceive 
myself by any means adequate to the task. He said that I should 
have assistance when I required it. But I know full well the 
difference between promising & performing, however as he seemed 
to expect it of me, I prepared the 2 editorial articles in the last 
Gazette, and shewed them to him, before they were inserted. 

Your suggestion concerning a direct rout to Indianapolis, is 
well worthy of attention. It shall be communicated to Mr. Owen, 
and measures, shall, if possible be put in train to effect the object 
in view. * * * 

I have not time to write more, but will endeavor to send you 
another letter next week. 

Your truly affectionate Father, 

Wm. Pelham. 

I have had a smart touch of the prevailing Influenza but am 
now recovering — it has pulled me down considerably. — My face 
is thin and pale — I believe I have lost 10 pounds of flesh within the 
last 4 or 5 weeks — but I expect the approach of warm weather 
will restore me. 

Thursday Afternoon, Mar. 16", 1826. 
My dear William. 

I have just finished helping Mr. Palmer, (according to custom) 
to make up our mails and I have a few minutes left before I shall 
be called upon to open the mail, Mr. Schnee being absent. About 
3 or 4 weeks ago Mr. Owen accosted me with a wish that I would 



William Pelham. 413 

undertake to conduct the Gazette as Mr. Jennings had declined 
it on account of his health. I answered that I considered it an 
important concern, and that I was not competent to the task. 
To make a long story short, he urged it and I merely acquiested. 
In this new capacity I have done as well as I could, though not so 
well as I wished. How long this will continue to be my occupation 
is uncertain. Dr. Buchanan of Shelbyville, Ky. has at last been 
written to. to be the editor, but our hopes of his coming are very 
slim. I shall be heartily glad to get rid of this burden as soon as 
possible. 

Since I last wrote to you very considerable changes have taken 
place in our affairs, and the prospect is now daily improving. 
Mr. Owen is indefatigable in his endeavors to introduce economy, 
frugality, industry, equality, and other practices essential to the 
success of his principles. In the meantime I do not doubt you 
very frequently hear the most unfavorable accounts of this place; 
but you need not fear a dissolution of this Society, for it cannot 
happen. Various modifications have been, and probably will be 
made, without touching the foundation, which stands on a rock, 
not to be shaken by priestcraft or any other worldly craft. 

You will perceive that I have given a new complexion to the 
Gaz. in discouraging those long-winded metaphysical disquisi- 
tions with which Mr. J. was wont to fill its columns. There are 
some able pens employed in the service of the Gaz. and when wt 
get in order I am in hopes the paper will become more useful than 
it has hitherto heen. You will understand that my criticisms on 
the paper are entirely confidential. I just hear the Mail Stage horn 
at a distance. 

Friday Afternoon. — Miscellany. The mail yesterday was 
unusually small. I reed, neither a letter nor an Ohio Repub. I 
shall anxiously look for you during the whole of next month. I 
would wish you to deposite in your memory all you hear of us either 
good or bad, though I am aware your mind will not be overlooked 
with reports of the former description. It might not be amiss to 
make notes, to assist yr memory. The fare from Cincinn to 
Louisville is about 4 dollars, from L. to Mt. Vernon about 6. 
Mr. Neef is expected to be here this evening or tomorrow. 

I would willing communicate with you further, if I did not feel 
too cold & uncomfortable & moreover had a convenient situation 
for writing. I should like you to come alone if you do not ac- 
company Daniel Ferson. 

Farewell my dear Son — Let me have the supreme satisfaction 



414 Early Travels in Indiana. 

of seeing you in April at furthest. In the meantime present me 
most kindly to Mr. Peters & Mary and all other friends. 

Wm. Pelham. 

The following letter from Wm. Creese Pelham written a few weeks 
before his Father's death, gives some information in connection with the 
schools and Educational Society of New Harmony. 

New Harmony, Wednesday 10 January 1827. 
My Dear Father 

I was unavoidably detained in school longer this evening than 
I wished and cannot write you as much as I wished. Bolton and 
myself have several times agreed to come out to you but have been 
detained by "counteracting circumstances" such as rainy days 
and cold days &c but we shall be with you next Sunday or the 
Sunday following I think. — 

We go on in the same old way, changing every thing, some- 
thimes before we have an opportunity to find out its benefits. 
In the internal arrangements of our society no very considerable 
changes have been made. Dunn & Johnson have left us. We 
have received between 30 & 40 children from Mr. Owen's Com- 
munity as day scholars at No. 2. Mr. McCall has a class and 
Mr. Brown, they come as day scholars at eight dollars per year. 
All the other children attend at Madam's at No. 5, where some 
are well satisfied with their progress and others the contrary as 
usual. Dr. Embree, a young man from Cincinnati delivers 
lectures to them on physiology and dissects pigs and dogs &c for 
their information. 

Phiquepal has taken his boys entirely to himself and lives in 
the Church and hall. Jones and his wife are part of his community 
and Simms &c. The Carpenters, Shoemakers and all persons 
not employed in teaching the children have removed from the 
Church. Thirwell has taken all his tools &c home. Phiquepal 
has stopped his boys from making shoes for the community, 
which created some dissatisfaction. 

A resolution was passed a short time since by our society for- 
biding the use of the Hall for dancing &c, without special permis- 
sion of the society. This week, on the application of Miss Caroline 
Tiebout, one of our members, a resolution was passed for a ball 
this evening, but on the earnest representation of Phiquepal that 
it was impossible to use the Hall for dancing without interfering 
with his arrangements, the resolution was repealed, and we need 
expect no more balls in the Hall unless they be on Sunday after- 



William Pelham. 415 

noon as proposed by Mr. Owen, but which meets with great 
opposition. 

Phiquepal's boys sleep in the rooms formerly Lesueur and 
Troost's in the Hall and go to bed at eight and rise at four when 
they receive one of their lessons, a lecture I believe from Phiquepal. 
He has his school room which is likewise his eating room &c 
covered with skeletons, bones, arithmometers &c &c so that it 
looks more like a museum than a schoolroom. 

The prospect of our leaving here in the spring brightens. I 
earnestly hope we may not be disappointed. Dr. Price writes 
from Cincinnati that Neville can be purchased of Gen. Neville 
with 2600 acres of excellent land for $15000. The Gen. wishes 
to become a member of the community. A part of the property 
which is rented produced to the Gen. on an average of 35 bush, 
of corn per acre being one third of the actual produce. A new 
steam engine which cost $2600 was put in the mill last year, 
(a saw and grist mill) there are several good brick houses &c &c. 
The improvements put on the place by Piate cost $24000, since 
which Gen. Neville has expended several thousand, — but all this 
is not talked of publicly yet, — a meeting was held at Thirwell's 
last evening on the subject and mem. furnished Lees who is 
going up the river shortly. Dr. Price writes he has no doubt 
but the money can be raised at any time in Cincinnati and con- 
sidered as a speculation it is the greatest one ever offered and noth- 
ing but the General being such a devoted community man could 
ever induce him to make the offer &c. 

I believe our Rope factory burned down before you were 
here last, and No. 4 was on fire yesterday but little damage was 
done. Our Society is still tearing down the log buildings for 
firewood, and the women sometimes cannot agree among them- 
selves who is the cook. Burton and Beal were the cooks at the 
Granary last week. The dining tables have all been removed 
from the Granary into the sitting room at the Green House. 
Three tables accomodate all who eat there. The reason for this 
was that the Granary was cold and Phiquepal having taken his 
boys &c away left but few who might be more comfortably accomo- 
dated in the sitting room — the room East of that now used for 
our meetings. Tiebout has resigned his office of storekeeper. 

Our Scientific Journal has not yet been commenced but the 
plates for it are engraving and preparations making. The 
Printing press &c have been removed to the Infirmary or old 
carpenter shop. 



416 Early Travels in Indiana. 

Say was married the other day to Lucy Sistare, they went off 
. to a place beyond Springfield. * * * 

Your aff. Son 

Win. Creese Pelham. 

A letter from William Owen to William Pelham of Zanesville, 0. 

Harmonie, Indiana 
22— January 1825 
Sir- 
In my Father's absence I have received your letters dated the 
1— & 24 — of last month. 

My father sailed up the river from Mount Vernon about 10 
days ago, in company with Mr. Rapp and 70 or 80 Harmonians 
who were on their way to Economy, a property lately purchased 
by them near Pittsburg. My Father intends proceeding to the 
City of Washington without delay, hoping to come into communi- 
cation there, with most of the leading minds in the States. As 
soon as he has made known, as far as he considers necessary, the 
leading features of his plans, he will then return to this place as 
quickly as possible, in order to complete the arrangements neces- 
sary to the formation of a Society here, founded on the Principles, 
which he has so long advocated; for which purpose he purchased 
this estate from Mr. Rapp, a few days before his departure. 

I am highly gratified to learn that you have been pleased by 
the perusal of the Dublin Journal, containing an account of my 
Fathers proceedings while in that City. 

At present we have no further publication here; but we are in 
expectation of receiving several shortly from Europe. When 
they arrive I am sure my Father will have much pleasure in 
giving you every information on the subject. 

As it is intended to form an establishment here with the least 
possible loss of time, I fear my Father will be prevented from 
seeing you at Zanesville, before his return to this town; but I am 
sure he will take the earliest opportunity of cultivating a personal 
acquaintance with you. 

It is proposed that a Society be formed here, on the Principle 
of united production and consumption, to be composed of persons 
practicing all the most useful occupations necessary to the well 
being of a complete establishment, to whom lodgings, food 
clothing, attendance during sickness and a good education for 
their children will be secured. The profits to accumulate in 
order to form a new Community on the Principle of complete 



William Pelham. 417 

equality, as soon as a sufficient sum shall be realized. In case of 
expulsion or Voluntary Departure each family to be entitled to 
draw out all the property they may have brought in with them, 
and to receive in addition whatever the Directors of the establish- 
ment may consider reasonable. 

We expect a number of useful tradesmen to come out from 
Europe in November or December and that we shall be joined by 
many others both from the Eastern States and from this neighbor- 
hood. 

I shall forward your letter to Washington City by tomorrow's 
post. My Father, I think, will be with us again early in March. 
We shall be happy to see you here whenever you cam make it 
convenient to leave home and I have no doubt, my Father will 
endeavor to make his arrangements to visit you if possible, on his 
return Westward. 

With best thanks for your good wishes, believe me 
Your Obt, Servt. 

Wra. Owen. 



From Travels through North America, during the year 1825 
and 1826, by His Highness, Bernhard, Duke of 
Saxe-Weimer Eisenach [1828], Vol. II., pp. 105- 
124. 

Bernhard, Karl, Duke of Saxe-Weimer. 

Duke Bernhard tells us that the idea of visiting America occupied his 
mind almost from the earliest years, the chief reason being "I wished to see 
the new world; the country; the people; their conditions and institutions; 
their customs and manners." But due to the exactions of the military life, 
this desire was not granted until rather late in years. Finally in 1825 the 
opportunity came, and due to the friendship that existed between himself 
and the king of the Netherlands, the latter provided passage for him on a 
royal sloop of war — The Pallas. 

Duke Bernhard spent fifteen months in this country. By training he 
was a keen observer, and his accounts therefore are of more than usual 
interest. 

The Wabash, a very beautiful river, rises not far from the 
sources of the Miami of the Lakes, and meanders through one of 
the most fertile districts of the west. At its mouth, it is about 
two hundred and fifty yards broad, and is navigable about 
four hundred miles. The Wabash forms the boundary between 
the states of Illinois and Indiana, the right bank belongs to the 
former, the left to the latter state. About evening, the steam- 
boat landed Mr. Huygens and myself on the right bank at Mount 
Vernon, a place established about two years ago, whence we pro- 
posed to go by land to New Harmony. Mr. Hottinguer left us, 
as he pursued his voyage in the steam-boat; I parted very reluc- 
tantly from this esteemed fellow traveller, who possessed many 
good qualities, above all others, one seldom found in his country- 
men, great modesty. 

Mount Vernon lies upon a high bank, one hundred and twenty- 
six miles from New Orleans, and eight hundred and three from 
Pittsburgh. It is a favourable situation for trade, laid out on 
an extensive plan, but has only frame houses, and at most three 
hundred inhabitants. It is the new capital of Posey county. 
A prison was finished for the use of the county; a court-house was 
about to be built. We formed an acquaintance with a physician 
established here, and a travelling merchant. The roots of the 
felled trees remained yet in the streets of the town, the woods 



Karl Bernhard. 419 

began close behind the houses; nay, the latest built were en- 
circled by them. 

On the following morning, 15th of April, we hired a two-horse 
wagon, to carry us to the village of New Harmony, which is six- 
tern miles distant from Mount Vernon, and lies on the left shore 
of the Wabash. The road passed through a hilly country, 
thickly grown with green-leaved trees. The way was made very 
bad by former rains, and the most miry places were mended with 
logs, forming a grievous causeway;* over a little stream, called 
Big creek, we crossed a tolerable wooden bridge. About half 
way is Springfield, at first made the capital of Posey county, 
which, however, afterwards was changed to Mount Vernon, as 
I have mentioned before. In Springfield the county gaol still 
remains, also a brick court-house, and about ten wooden houses, 
two of them are taverns. As the road was very bad, and the 
horses went very slow, I walked at least ten miles, and arrived 
at New Harmony, before the carriage. As soon as you clear the 
woods, you have a very handsome view of the place. It lies in a 
valley, not far from the Wabash. The woody and low banks of 
this river, were at present, in the neighbourhood of New Harmony, 
overflowed. From the roots of trees still remaining, it was visible, 
that this country had been covered with wood but a short time 
back. 

In fact, it is but eleven years since Mr. Rapp with his society, 
after they had disposed of Harmony in Pennsylvania, moved 
here, and felled the first tree to found New Harmony in a country 
inhabited only by wolves, Indians, bears, rattlesnakes, &c. 

The hills immediately next to the place, are already cleared- 
of timber of the larger kind; they are converted into vineyards, 
and partly into orchards. Farther off are meadows and fields to 
the right, and to the left fruit and vegetable gardens, carefully 
enclosed by palisades. New Harmony itself, has broad unpaved 
streets, in which good brick houses appear alternately, with framed 
cabins and log houses: the streets are regular, running at right 
angles. We took up our quarters in the only tavern there, be- 
longing to the community; it was passable. 

Rapp's society, called from their former residence, the Har- 
monites, consisted of Wurtemburgers. Their early history is 
known, and perhaps, when I visit this society from Pittsburgh in 
their new establishment, "Economy," I may find an opportunity 

♦["These log turnpikes are better known by the name of "corduroy roads."] 

TRANS. 



420 Early Travels in Indiana. 

to say more concerning them. Rapp sold New Harmony in 
the year, 1825, to the Englishman, Robert Owen, and left there 
with his people on the 5th of May, to go up the Ohio to Economy. 
Mr. Owen was originally engaged in manufactures, and possessed 
a large cotton factory at New Lanark, on the Falls of Clyde, ten 
miles from Glasgow in Scotland, where he had, by the adoption 
of a new system of education and formation of character, changed 
a collection of one thousand rude labourers into a community of 
industrious beings. His system, and his ideas upon the situation 
of human society, as well as the improvements that are capable 
of being made, he has divulged in a series of essays, which are 
collected, and appear in print under the name of a new view of 
society. They conclude with the project of a constitution for a 
community formed on his system. 

Mr. Owen is an enemy to all sects, the spirit of which has 
generated so much evil under the imposing name of religion. He 
allows each person liberty to believe in what he may consider to 
be good; so that a pure Deism is the peculiar religion of his ad- 
herents. On this account he was very obnoxious to the prevail- 
ing sects in Great Britain, and accordingly his system could not 
extend itself there. He was therefore induced to turn this atten- 
tion to the United States, and particularly to the western part of 
the Union, where, as he says, there is less hypocrisy of religion 
prevailing than to the east. He then purchased New Harmony 
from Mr. Rapp, and commenced his establishment in the month 
of May last. As he laid the foundation of it entirely on perfect 
equality and community of property, many enthusiasts in these 
principles from various parts of the Union joined themselves to 
him; and also a number of vagabonds and lazy worthless persons, 
from all parts of the worlds, that would willingly live well at the 
public expense, who had drank away the little money, if they 
brought any at all, at the tavern, and who would not work, but 
desired to say a great deal. Mr. Owen had gone to England on 
account of business in the month of Juty, and during his absence, 
a complete anarchy had been introduced into the new community. 
At the end of October he arrived from England at New York on 
his return, gave lectures there, in Philadelphia, and in Washing- 
ton, upon his system, made some proselytes in Philadelphia, and 
came back to New Harmony. He lamented over his people, and 
brought the situation of anarchy in which they had fallen before 
their eyes so plainly, with the consequences resulting therefrom, 
that they invested him with dictatorial authority for one year. 



Karl Bernhard. 421 

In the eastern states there is a general dislike to him. It was 
thought unadvised that he issued a proclamation to the Americans 
on his last arrival in New York, in which he told them, that among 
many virtues they possessed great faults, among which he alluded 
to an ill-directed propensity to religious feelings, and proposed 
himself as their reformer in this respect. I heard at that time 
unfavourable expressions from persons in the highest public 
offices against him; and one of them gave Mr. Owen to under- 
stand very plainly that he considered his intellects rather deranged.* 
In one family alone, where theory took place of experimental 
knowledge, did I hear conversation turn to his advantage. 

After all this, I came with the utmost expectation to New 
Harmony, curious to become acquainted with a man of such 
extraordinary sentiments. In the tavern, I accosted a man very 
plainly dressed, about fifty years of age, rather of low stature, 
who entered into a conversation with me, concerning the situa- 
tion of the place, and the disordered state in which I would find 
every thing, where all was newly established, &c. When I asked 
this man how long before Mr. Owen would be there, he announced 
himself, to my no small surprize, as Mr. Owen, was glad at my 
visit, and offered himself to show every thing, and explain to me 
whatever remained without explanation. As the arrangement 
calculated for Rapp's society was not adapted to his, of course 
many alterations would naturally be made. All the log houses 
still standing in the place, he intended to remove, and only brick 
and framed edifices should be permitted to remain. Also all 
enclosures about particular gardens, as well as all the enclosures 
within the place itself, he would take away, and only allow the 
public highways leading through the settlement to be enclosed. 
The whole should bear a resemblance to a park, in which the sepa- 
rate houses should be scattered about. 

In the first place, Mr. Owen carried me to the quondam church 
of Rapp's society; a simple wooden building, with a steeple of 
the same materials, provided with a clock. This church was at 
present appropriated to joiner's and shoemaker's shops, in which 
the boys are instructed in these mechanic arts. 

Behind the church stands a large brick edifice, built in the 
form of a cross, and furnished with a species of cupola, the purpose 

*[This is perhaps, the most charitable idea that can be formed of the actions of 
such reformers, as well as of a "lady heretofore mentioned, who has unsexed herself, 
and become so intoxicated with vanity, as enthusiastically to preach up a "reformation" 
in favour of the promiscuous intercourse of sexes and colours, the downfall of all 
religion, and the removal of all restraints imposed by virtue and morality!] — -TRANS. 



422 Early Travels in Indiana. 

of which is unknown. Rapp, they say, had dreamed three times 
that this building should be erected, and therefore he had it done; 
but it is thought, and I believe correctly, that he only did this to 
keep his society in constant employment, so that they could have 
no leisure to reflect upon their situation, and dependence upon 
him. His power over them actually extended so far, that to 
prevent his society from too great an increase, he forbid the 
husbands from associating with their wives. I also heard here 
a report which I had already been apprised of in Germany, that 
he had himself castrated a son who had transgressed this law, for 
the sake of an example, and that the son had died under the opera- 
tion. Over one of the entrances of this problematical edifice, 
stands the date of the year 1822, hewed in stone; under it is a gilt 
rose, and under this is placed the inscription Micah. 4 v. 8. The 
interior of the house forms a large hall, in form of a cross, the ceil- 
ing is supported by wooden pillars. Mr. Owen has devoted the 
hall to the purposes of dancing, music, and meetings for philo- 
sophical discussions. He told me that he intended to have the 
ends of the cross, both of the grand saloon as well as those of the 
hall under the roof, divided off by partitions, so as to use them for 
school-rooms, for a library, for a cabinet of natural history, of 
physical objects, &c. 

Mr. Owen then conducted me to Rapp's former dwelling, 
a large, well-built brick house, with two lightning rods. The man 
of God, it appeared, took especial good care of himself; his house 
was by far the best in the place, surrounded by a garden with a 
flight of stone stops, and the only one furnished with lightning- 
rods. Mr. Owen, on the contrary, contented himself with a 
small apartment in the same tavern where I lodged. At present, 
the offices, and the residence of Mr. M'Clure, the associate of 
Mr. Owen, arc in Rapp's house.* 

Mr. M'Clure is a man distinguished for learning, who has 
published a geological chart of the United States. He told me 
that he was in Germany in the year 1802, and also at Weimar, 
where he had become acquainted with the literati residing there. 
I was introduced by him to a native of Alsace, of the name of 
Neef, a rather aged man, who had the superintendence of the 
boys. Mr. Owen's two eldest sons were also here shown to me, 
pupils of Fellenberg, who is greatly respected. Afterwards Mr. 
Owen made me acquainted with Mr. Lewis, secretary of the society 

*[It is understood that Mr. M'Clure has long since given up all connexion with the 
New Harmony bubble.] — TRANS. 



Karl Bernhard. 423 

from Virginia, and a relation of the great Washington. He was 
already pretty far advanced in years, and appeared to have united 
himself to the society from liberal principles, as far as I could 
judge from our short conversation. Another acquaintance that 
I made, was with a Mr. Jennings, from Philadelphia, a young man, 
who was educated as a clergyman, but had quitted that profes- 
sion to follow this course of life, and had united himself to Mr. 
Owen. He intended, nevertheless, to leave this place again, and 
return back to Philadelphia. Many other members have the 
same design, and I can hardly believe that this society will have a 
long duration.* Enthusiasm, which abandons its subjects but 
too soon, as well as the itch for novelty, had contributed much 
to the formation of this society. In spite of the principles of 
equality which they recognize, it shocks the feelings of people of 
education, to live on the same footing with every one indiscrim- 
inately, and eat with them at the same table. 

The society consisted, as I was informed, of about one thou- 
sand members; at a distance of two miles are founded two new 
communities. Till a general table shall be instituted, according to 
the fundamental constitution of the society, the members are 
placed in four boarding-houses, where they must live very fru- 
gally. Several of the most turbulent, with an Irishman who wore 
a long beard, at their head, wished to leave the society immediately 
to go to Mexico, there to settle themselves, but where their sub- 
sistence will be procured with as much difficulty. 

In the evening Mr. Owen conducted me to a concert in the 
non-descript building. Most of the members of the society were 
present. The orchestra was not numerous, it consisted at first 
only of one violin, one violoncello, one clarionet and two flutes. 
Nevertheless the concert was surprisingly good, especially as the 
musicians have not been together a year. The clarionet player 
performed particularly well, and afterwards let us hear him on the 
bugle. Several good male and female vocalists then took a part, 
they sang among other things a trio accompanied by the clarionet 
only. Declamation was interspersed among the musical per- 
formances, Lord Byron's stanzas to his wife after their separation 
were extremely well recited. Between the two parts of the con- 
cert the music played a march, each gentleman gave a lady his arm, 
and a promenade took place, resembling a Polonaise with pretty 
figures, sometimes in two couples, sometimes in four; two ladies 

*By late newspapers it appears that the society actually dissolved itself, in the 
beginning of the year 1827. 



424 Early Travels in Indiana. 

in the middle, the gentlemen separated from the ladies, then again 
all together. The concert closed with a lively cotillion. I was, 
on the whole, much amused; and Mr. Huygens took an active 
share in the dancing. This general evening amusement takes 
place often in the week; besides, on Tuesday, there is a general 
ball. There is a particular costume adopted for the society. 
That for the men consists of wide pantaloons buttoned over a 
boy's jacket, made of light material, without a collar; that of the 
women of a coat reaching to the knee and pantaloons, such as 
little girls wear among us. These dresses are not universally 
adopted, but they have a good appearance. An elderly French 
lady, who presides over the department of young mothers, and 
the nursing of all the very small children, stuck by my side during 
a large portion of the evening, and tormented me with her phil- 
osophical views. All the men did not take a share in the dance, 
i. e. the lower class, but read newspapers, which were scattered 
over the side-tables. 

The public house in which we lived was conducted on account 
of the society. General Evans was looked for, who was to keep 
the house; in the mean time it was directed by the physician of 
the society, Dr. M'Namee, from Vincennes. Among the public 
buildings I remarked two of which the lower part was strongly 
built with rough stone, and provided with loop-holes. The 
larger of these was the granary, and it was reasonably thought 
that Rapp had this built as a defensive redoubt for his own people. 
At the first period of his establishment in this country he had not 
only had the Indians, but also the rude people known under the 
general title of backwoodsmen, who not only saw the establish- 
ment of such a society with jealous eyes, which they knew would 
be wealthy in a short time, but also entertained a grudge against 
Rapp's unnatural rules of chastity. 

On the morni ; ng of the 14th of April, I strolled about the place 
to look round me. I visited Mr. Neef, but found his wife only at 
home, a native of Memmingen, in Swabia. Her husband was in 
the act of leading the boys out to labour. Military exercises form 
a part of the instruction of the children. I saw the boys divided 
into two ranks, and parted into detachments marching to labour, 
and on the way they performed various wheelings and evolutions. 
All the boys and girls have a very healthy look, are cheerful and 
lively, and by no means bashful. The boys labour in the field 
and garden, and were now occupied with new fencing. The 
girls learn female employments; they were as little oppressed as 



Karl Bernhard. 425 

the boys with labour and teaching; these happy and interesting 
children were much more employed in making their youth pass 
as pleasantly as possible. Madam Neef showed the school-house, 
in which she dwelt, and in which the places for sleeping were 
arranged for the boys. Each boy slept on a cot frame, upon a 
straw bed. 

We went next to Rapp's distillery: it will be removed alto- 
gether. Mr. Owen has forbidden distilling also, as well as the 
use of ardent spirits. Nothwithstanding this, the Irishmen here 
find opportunities of getting whiskey and fuddling themselves 
from the flat boats that stop here, &c. We saw also a dye-house 
and a mill set in motion by a steam-engine of ten horse-power. 
The engine was old arfd not in good order, Mr. Owen said however, 
he hoped to introduce steam-mills here in time from England. 
From the mills we went to the vineyard, which was enclosed and 
kept in very good order. I spoke to an old French vine-dresser 
here. He assured me that Rapp's people had not understood the 
art of making wine; that he would in time make more and much 
better wine, than had been done heretofore. The wine stocks 
are imported from the Cape of Good Hope, and the wine has an 
entirely and singular and strange taste, which reminds one of 
the common Spanish wines. 

We went again to the quondam church, or workshop for the 
boys, who are intended for joiners and shoemakers. These boys 
sleep upon the floor above the church in cribs, three in a row, and 
thus have their sleeping place and place of instruction close to- 
gether. We also saw the shops of the shoemakers, tailors and 
saddlers, also the smiths, of which six were under one roof, and 
the pottery, in which were two rather large furnaces. A porce- 
lain earth has been discovered on the banks of the Mississippi, 
in the state of Illinois, not far from St. Louis. Two experienced 
members of the society, went in that direction, to bring some of 
the earth to try experiments with, in burning. The greater part 
of the young girls, whom we chanced to meet at home, we found 
employed in plaiting straw hats. I became acquainted with a 
Madam F — , a native of St. Petersburg. She married an Ameri- 
can merchant, settled there, and had the misfortune to lose her 
husband three days after marriage. She then joined her husband's 
family at Philadelphia, and as she was somewhat eccentric and 
sentimental, quickly became enthusiastically attached to Mr. 
Owen's system. She told, me however, in German, that she 
found herself egregiously deceived; that the highly vaunted 



426 Early Travels in Indiana. 

equality was not altogether to her taste; that some of the society 
were too low, and the table was below all criticism. The good 
lady appeared to be about to run from one extreme to the other 
for she added, that in the summer, she would enter a Shaker 
establishment near Vincennes.* 

I renewed acquaintance here with Mr. Say, a distinguished 
naturalist from Philadelphia, whom I had been introduced to, at 
the Wistar Party there; unfortunately he had found himself 
embarrassed in his fortune, and was obliged to come here as a 
friend of Mr. M'Clure. This gentleman appeared quite comical 
in the costume of the society, before described, with his hands 
full of hard lumps and blisters, occasioned by the unusual labour 
he was obliged to undertake in the garden. * 

In the evening I went to walk in the streets, and met with 
several of the ladies of the society, who rested from the labours of 
the day. Madam F — was among them, whose complaints of 
disappointed expectations I had listened to. I feared still more 
from all that I saw and heard, that the society would have but a 
brief existence. I accompanied the ladies to a dancing assembly, 
which was held in the kitchen of one of the boarding-houses. 
I observed that this was only an hour of instruction to the unprac- 
tised in dancing, and that there was some restraint on account of 
my presence, from politeness I went away, and remained at home 
the remainder of the evening. About ten o'clock, an alarm of 
fire was suddenly raised. An old log building used as a wash- 
house was in flames, immediately the fire-engine kept in a dis- 
tinct house, was brought and served by persons appointed to that 
duty. They threw the stream of water through the many aper- 
tures of the log-house, and quickly put a stop to the fire. In a 
quarter of an hour, all was over. Since the houses in the place 
all stand separately, there is nothing to fear from the extension of 
fire, unless in a strong wind. The houses, however, are all covered 
with shingles. 

On the 15th of April, I went into the garden back of Rapp's 
house to see a plate or block of stone, which is remarkable as it 
bears the impression of two human feet. This piece of stone was 
hewed out of a rock near St. Louis, and sold to Mr. Rapp. School- 
craft speaks of it in his travels, and I insert his remarks, as I have 
found them correct. "The impressions arc to all appearance 

♦[According to the report of some females, who wvre induced to visit New Harmony, 
and remained there for some time, any situation much above abject wretchedness, 
was preferable to this vaunted terrestrial paradise.] — TRANS. 



Karl Bernhard. 427 

those of a man standing upright, the left foot a little forwards, 
the heels turned inwards. The distance between the heels by an 
exact measurement was six and a quarter inches, and thirteen and 
a half between the extremities of the great toes. By an accurate 
examination, it will however be ascertained, that they are not the 
impression of feet, accustomed to the use of European shoes, 
for the toes are pressed out, and the foot is flat, as is observed in 
persons who walk barefoot. The probability that they were 
caused by the pressure of an individual, that belonged to an un- 
known race of men, ignorant of the art of tanning hides, and that 
this took place in a much earlier age than the traditions of the 
present Indians extend to, this probability I say, is strengthened 
by the extraordinary size of the feet here given. In another re- 
spect, the impressions are strikingly natural, since the muscles 
of the feet are represented with the greatest exactness and truth. 
This circumstance weakens very much the hypothesis, that they 
are possibly evidences of the ancient sculpture of a race of men 
living in the remote ages of this continent. Neither history nor 
tradition, gives us the slightest information of such a people. 
For it must be kept in mind, that we have no proof that the people 
who erected our surprising western tumuli, ever had a knowledge 
of masonry, even much less of sculpture, or that they had in- 
vented the chisel, the knife, or the axe, those excepted made from 
porphyry, hornstone or obsidian. The medium length of the 
human male foot can be taken at ten inches. The length of the 
foot stamp here described, amounts to ten and a quarter inches, 
the breadth measured over the toes, in a right angle with the 
first line is four inches, but the greatest spread of the toes is four 
and a half inches, which breadth diminished at the heels to two 
and a half inches. Directly before these impressions is a well 
inserted and deep mark, similar to a scroll of which the greatest 
length is two feet seven inches, and the greatest breadth twelve 
and a half inches. The rock which contains these interesting 
traces, is a compact limestone of a bluish-gray colour." 

This rock with the unknown impressions are remembered as 
long as the country about St. Louis has been known, this table is 
hewn out of a rock, and indeed out of a perpendicular wall of 
rock. 

The garden of Rapp's house was the usual flower-garden of a 
rich German farmer. In it was a green-house, in which several 
large fig trees, an orange, and lemon tree stood in the earth. Mr. 
Owen took me into one of the newly-built houses, in which the 



42S Early Travels in Indiana. 

married members of the society are to dwell. It consisted of two 
stories, in each two chambers and two alcoves, with the requisite 
ventilators. The cellar of the house is to contain a heating ap- 
paratus, to heat the whole with warm air. When all shall be 
thoroughly organized, the members will alternately have the 
charge of heating the apparatus. Each family will have a cham- 
ber and an alcove, which will be sufficient, as the little children 
will be in the nursery, and the larger at school. They will not 
require kitchens, as all are to eat in common. The unmarried 
women will live together, as will also the unmarried men, in the 
manner of the Moravian brethern. 

I had an ample conversation with Mr. Owen, relating to his 
system, and his expectations. He looks forward to nothing less 
than to remodel the world entirely; to root out all crims; to abolish 
all punishments; to create similar views and similar wants, and in 
this manner to avoid all dissension and warfare. When his 
system of education shall be brought into connection with the 
great progress made by mechanics, ami which is daily increasing 
every man can then, as he thought, provide his smaller neces- 
saries for himself, and trade would cease entirely! I expressed a 
doubt of the practicability of his system in Europe, and even in 
the United States. He was too unalterably convinced of the 
results, to admit the slightest room for doubt. It grieved me to 
see that Mr. Owen should allow himself to be so infatuated by his 
passion for universal improvement, as to believe and to say that 
he is about to reform the whole world; and yet that almost every 
member of his society, with whom I have conversed apart, 
acknowledged that he was deceived in his expectations, and ex- 
pressed their opinion that Mr. Owen had commenced on too 
grand a scale, and had admitted too many members, without the 
requisite selection! The territory of the society may contain 
twenty five thousand acres. The sum of one hundred and twenty 
thousand dollars was paid to Rapp for this purchase, and for 
that consideration he also left both his cattle, and a consider- 
able flock of sheep behind. 

I went with the elder Doctor M'Xamee, to the two new estab- 
lished communities, one of which is called No. 2, or Macluria; 
the other lately founded, No. 3. No. 2, lies two miles distant 
from New Harmony, at the entrance of the forest, which will be 
cleared to make the land fit for cultivation, and consists of nine 
log houses, first tenanted about four weeks since, by about eighty 
persons. They are mostly backwoodsmen with their families, 



Karl Bernhard. 429 

who have separated themselves from the community No. 1, in 
New Harmony, because no religion is acknowledged there, and 
these people wish to hold their prayer meetings undisturbed. 
The fields in the neighbourhood of this community were of course 
very new. The community No. 3, consisted of English country 
people, who formed a new association, as the mixture, or perhaps 
the cosmopolitism of New Harmony did not suit them; they left 
the colony planted by Mr. Birkbeck, at English Prairie, about 
twenty miles hence, on the right bank of the Wabash, after the 
unfortunate death of that gentleman,* and came here. This is 
a proof that there are two evils that strike at the root of the young 
societies; one is a sectarian or intolerant spirit; the other, national 
prejudice. No. 3, is to be built on a very pretty eminence, as 
yet there is on'y a frame building for three families begun. 

After we had returned to New Harmony, I went to the orchard 
on the Mount Vernon road to walk, and beheld, to my great 
concern, what ravages the frost had committed on the fruit blos- 
soms, the vines must have been completely killed. The orchards 
planted by Rapp and his society are large and very handsome, 
containing mostly apple and peach trees, also some pear and cherry 
trees. One of the gardens is exclusively devoted to flowers, 
where, in Rapp's time, a labyrinth was constructed of beech 
tree hedges and flowers, in the middle of which stood a pavilion, 
covered with the tops of trees. 

I afterwards visited Mr. Neef, who is still full of the maxims 
and principles of the French revolution; captivated with the 
system of equality; talks of the emancipation of the negroes, and 
openly proclaims himself an Atheist. Such people stand by 
themselves, and fortunately are so very few in number, that they 
can do little or no injury. 

In the evening there was a general meeting in the large hall, 
it opened with music. Then one of the members, an English 
architect of talent, who came to the United States, with Mr. Owen 
whose confidence he appeared to possess, and was here at the 
head of the arranging and architectural department, read some 
extracts from the newspapers, upon which Mr. Owen made a very 
good commentary; for example, upon the extension and improve- 
ment of steam-engines, upon their adaptation to navigation, and 
the advantages resulting therefrom. He lost himself, however, 
in his theories, when he expatiated on an article which related to 

*He was drowned in the Wabash, which he attempted to swim over on horseback. 



430 Early Travels in Indiana. 

the experiments which had been made with Perkins's steam-gun. 
During these lectures, I made my observations on the much 
vaunted equality, as some tatterdemalions stretched themselves 
on the platform close by Mr. Owen. The better educated mem- 
bers kept themselves together, and took no notice of the others. 
I remarked also, that the members belonging to the higher class 
of society had put on the new costume, and made a party by them- 
selves. After the lecture the band played a march, each gentle- 
man took a lady, and marched with her round the room. Lastly, 
a cotillion was danced: the ladies were then escorted home, and 
each retired to his own quarters. 

I went early on the following morning, (Sunday,) to the 
assembly room. The meeting was opened by music. After this 
Mr. Owen stated a proposition, in the discussion of which he spoke 
of the advance made by the society, and of the location of a new 
community at Valley Forge, in Pennsylvania, and another in the 
state of New York. A classification of the members was spoken 
of afterwards. They were separated into three classes, first, of 
such as v undertook to be security for the sums due Mr. Owen and 
Mr. M'Clure, (that is, for the amount paid to Rapp, and so ex- 
pended as a pledge to be redeemed by the society,) and who, it 
desirous to leave the society, must give six months previous 
notice; secondly, of such as after a notice of fourteen days can 
depart; and, lastly, of those who are received only on trial. 

After this meeting, I paid Mr. M'Clure a visit, and received 
from him the French papers. Mr. M'Clure is old, childless, was 
never married, and intends, as is reported, to leave his property 
to the society. Afterwards I went with Mr. Owen, and some 
ladies of the society, to walk to the cut-off, as it is called, of the 
Wabash, where this river ha^ formed a new channel, and an island, 
which contains more than a hundred acres of the best land; at 
present, however, inundated by water. There is here a sub- 
stantial grist-mill, erected by Rapp, which was said to contain 
a very good set of machinery, but where we could not reach it 
on account of the water. We went some distance along the 
river, and then returned through the woods over the hills, which, 
as it was rather warm, and we could discover no pathway, was 
very laborious to the ladies, who were uncommonly alarmed at 
the different snakes we chanced to meet. Most of the serpent 
species here are harmless, and the children catch them for play- 
things. The poisonous snakes harbouring about here, are rattle- 
snakes and copperheads; these, however,, diminish rapidly in 



Karl Bernhard. 431 

numbers, for it is a common observation, that the poisonous 
serpents, like the Indians and bears, fly before civilization. The 
rattlesnakes have a powerful enemy in the numerous hogs, be- 
longing to the settlers, running about the woods, which are very 
well skilled in catching them by the neck and devouring them. 

In the evening I paid visits to some ladies, and witnessed 
philosophy and the love of equality put to the severest trial with 
one of them. She is named Virginia, from Philadelphia; is very 
young and pretty, was delicately brought up, and appears to have 
taken refuge here on account of an unhappy attachment. While 
she was singing and playing very well on the piano forte, she was 
told that the milking of the cows was her duty, and that they were 
waiting unmilked. Almost in tears, she betook herself to this 
servile employment, deprecating the new social system, and its 
so much prized equality. 

After the cows were milked, in doing which the poor girl was 
trod on by one, and daubed by another, I joined an aquatic party 
with the young ladies and some young philosophers, in a very 
good boat upon the inundated meadows of the Wabash. The 
evening was beautiful moonlight, and the air very mild; the beauti- 
ful Miss Virginia forgot her stable sufferings, and regaled us with 
her sweet voice. Somewhat later we collected together in ths 
house No. 2, appointed for a school-house, where all the } r oung 
ladies and gentlemen of quality assembled. In spite of the equality 
so much recommended, this class of persons will not mix with the 
common sort, and I believe that all the well brought up members 
are disgusted, and will soon abandon the society. We amused 
ourselves exceedingly during the whole remainder of the evening, 
dancing cotillions, reels and waltzes, and with such animation as 
rendered it quite lively. New figures had been introduced among 
the cotillions, among which is one called the new social system. 
Several of the ladies made objections to dancing on Sunday; we 
thought however, that in this sanctuary of philosophy, such preju- 
dices should be utterly discarded, and our arguments, as well as 
the inclination of the ladies, gained the victory. 

On the 17th April, a violent storm arose, which collected such 
clouds of dust together that it was hardly possible to remain in 
the streets, and I remained at home almost all day. I received 
a visit from a Mr. Von Schott. This person, a Wurtemburger by 
birth, and brother of lady Von Mareuil, in Washington, has settled 
himself seven or eight miles from New Harmony, and lives a real 
hermit's life, without a servant or assistant of any kind. He was 



432 Early Travels in Indiana. 

formerly an officer in the Wurtemberg cavalry, took his dis- 
charge, and went, from pure enthusiasm, and over-wrought 
fanaticism, to Greece, to defend their rights. As he there dis- 
covered himself to be deceived in his anticipations, he returned to 
his native country, and delivered himself up to religious super- 
stition. To extricate himself, in his opinion, from this world 
plunged in wretchedness, he accompanied his sister to the United 
States, came to Indiana, bought a piece of land from Rapp, by 
whom he asserted he was imposed upon, and had difficulties to 
undergo, since he knew nothing of agriculture. He lived in this 
manner in the midst of the forest with a solitary horse. A cruel 
accident had befallen him the week before, his stable with his 
trusty horse was burnt. He appeared to be a well-informed man, 
and spoke well and rationally, only when he touched upon re- 
ligious topics, his mind appeared to be somewhat deranged. He 
declared that he supported all possible privations with the greatest 
patience, only he felt the want of intercourse with a friend in his 
solitude. 

To-day two companies of the New Harmony militia, paraded 
with drums beating, and exercised morning and afternoon. They 
were all in uniform, well armed, and presented an imposing 
front. 

I was invited to dinner in the house, No. 4. Some gentlemen 
had been out hunting, and had brought home a wild turkey, 
which must be consumed. This turkey formed the whole dinner. 
Upon the whole I cannot complain either of an overloaded stomach 
or a head-ache from the wine affecting it, in any way. The living 
was frugal in the strictest sense, and in nowise pleased the elegant 
ladies with whom I dined. In the evening I visited Mr. M'Clure 
and Madam Fretageot, living in the same house. She is a French- 
woman, who formerly kept a boarding-school in Philadelphia, and 
is called mother by all the young girls here. The handsomest and 
most polished of the female world here, Miss Lucia Saistare and 
Miss Virginia, were under her care. The cows were milked this 
evening when I came in, and therefore we could hear their per- 
formance on the piano forte, and their charming voices in peace 
and quiet. Later in the evening we went to the kitchen of No. 3, 
where there was a ball. The young ladies of the better class kept 
themselves in a corner under Madam Fretageot's protection, and 
formed a little aristocratical club. To prevent all possible 
partialities, the gentlemen as well as the ladies, drew numbers 
for the cotillion, and thus apportioned them equitably. Our 



Karl Bernhard. 433 

young ladies turned up their noses apart at the democratic dancers, 
who often in this way fell to their lot. Although every one was 
pleased upon the whole, yet they separated at ten o'clock, as it 
is necessary to rise early here. I accompanied Madam Fre- 
tageot and her two pupils home, and passed some time in conversa- 
tion with Mr. M'Clure on his travels in Europe, which were 
undertaken with mineralogical views. The architect, Mr. Whit- 
well, besides showed me to-day the plan of this establishment. 
I admired particularly the judicious and economical arrangements 
for warming and ventilating the buildings, as well as the kitchens 
and laundries. It would indeed be a desirable thing could a 
building on this plan once be completed, and Mr. Owen hopes 
that the whole of New Harmony will thus be arranged. 

On the following clay I received a visit from one of the German 
patriots who had entered the society, of the name of Schmidt, 
who wished to have been considered as first lieutenant in the 
Prussian artillery, at Erfurt. He appeared to have engaged 
in one of the political conspiracies there, and to have deserted. 
Mr. Owen brought him from England last autumn as a servant. 
He was now a member of the society, and had charge of the cattle. 
His fine visions of freedom seemed to be very much lowered, for 
he presented himself to me, and his father to Mr. Huygens, to be 
employed as servants. 

Towards evening, an Englishman, a friend of Mr. Owen, Mr. 
Applegarth, arrived, who had presided over the school in New 
Lanark, and was to organize one here in all probability. After 
dinner I went to walk with him in the vineyard and woods. We 
conversed much concerning the new system, and the consequences 
which he had reason to expect would result, &c. and we discovered 
amongst other things, that Mr. Owen must have conceived the 
rough features of his general system from considering forced 
services or statutory labour; for the labour imposed upon persons 
for which they receive no compensation, would apply and operate 
much more upon them for their lodging, clothing, food, the educa- 
tion and care of their children, &c. so that they would consider 
their labour in the light of a corvee. We observed several labour- 
ers employed in loading bricks upon a cart, and they performed 
this so tedious and disagreeable task, as a statutory labour im- 
posed on them by circumstances, and his observation led us to 
the above reflection. I afterwards visited Mr. M'Clure, and 
entertained myself for an hour with the instructive conversation 
of this interesting old gentleman. Madam Fretageot, who ap- 



434 Early Travels in Indiana. 

pears to have considerable influence over Mr. M'Clure took an 
animated share in our discourse. In the evening there was a ball 
in the large assembly room, at which most of the members were 
present. It lasted only until ten o'clock, in dancing cotillions, 
and closed with a grand promenade, as before described. There 
was a particular place marked off by benches for the children 
to dance on, in the centre of the hall, where they could gambol 
about without running between the legs of the grown persons. 

On the 19th of April, a steam-boat came down the Wabash, 
bound for Louisville on the Ohio. It stopt opposite Harmony, 
and sent a boat through the overflow of water to receive passengers. 
I was at first disposed to embrace the opportunity of leaving this 
place, but as I heard that the boat was none of the best, I deter- 
mined rather to remain and go by land to Mount Vernon, to wait 
for a better steam-boat there. We took a walk to the community 
No. 3. The work on the house had made but little progress; 
we found but one workman there, and he was sleeping quite at 
his ease. This circumstance recalled the observation before 
mentioned, concerning gratis-labour, to my mind. We advanced 
beyond into the woods, commencing behind No. 3: there was 
still little verdure to hs seen. 

On the succeeding day, I intended to leave New Harmony 
early; but as it was impossible to procure a carriage, I was obliged 
to content myself . I walked to the community No. 2, or Macluria, 
and farther into the woods. They were employed in hewing down 
trees to build log houses. The wood used in the brick and frame 
houses here is of the tulip tree, which is abundant, worked easily, 
and lasts long. After dinner I walked with Mr. Owen and Madam 
Fretageot, to community No. 3. There a new vegetable garden 
was opened; farther on they were employed in preparing a field 
in which Indian corn was to be sown. This answers the best 
purpose here, as the soil is too rich for wheat; the stalks grow 
too long, the heads contain too few grains, and the stalks on 
account of their length soon break down, so that the crop is not 
very productive. The chief complaint here is on account of the 
too great luxuriancy of the soil. The trees are all very large, 
shoot up quickly to a great height, but have so few, and such weak 
roots, that they are easily prostrated by a violent storm; they also 
rot very easily, and I met with a great number of hollow trees, 
in proportion. I saw them sow maize or Indian corn, for the 
first time. There were furrows drawn diagonally across the 
field with the plough, each at a distance of two feet from the other; 



Karl Bernhard. 435 

then other furrows at the same distance apart, at right angles 
with the first. A person goes behind the plough with a bag of 
corn, and in each crossing of the furrows he drops six grains. 
Another person with a shovel follows, and covers these grains 
with earth. When the young plants are half a foot high, they are 
ploughed between and the earth thrown up on both sides of the 
plants; and when they are two feet high this operation is repeated, 
to give them more firmness and to destroy the weeds. There 
is a want of experienced farmers here; the furrows were badly 
made, and the whole was attended to rather too much en amateur. 

After we returned to Madam Fretageot's, Mr. Owen showed 
me two interesting objects of his invention; one of them con- 
sisted of cubes of different sizes, representing the different classes 
of the British population in the year 1811, and showed what a 
powerful burden rested on the labouring class, and how r desirable 
an equal division of property would be in that kingdom. The 
other was a plate, according to which, as Mr. Owen asserted, 
each child could be shown his capabilities, and upon which, after 
a mature self-examination, he can himself discover what progress 
he has made. The plate has this superscription: scale of human 
faculties - and qualities at birth. It has ten scales with the follow- 
ing titles: from the left to the right, self-attachment; affections; 
judgment; imagination; memory; reflection; perception; exci- 
tability; courage; strength. Each scale is divided into one hun- 
dred parts, which are marked from five to five. A slide that 
can be moved up or down, shows the measure of the qualities 
therein specified each one possesses, or believes himself to possess. 

I add but a few remarks more. Mr. Owen considers it as an 
absurdity to promise never-ending love on marriage. For this 
reason he has introduced the civil contract of marriage, after the 
manner of the Quakers, and the French laws into his community, 
and declares that the bond of matrimony is in no way indis- 
soluble. The children indeed, cause no impediment in case of a 
separation, for they belong to the community from their second 
year, and are all brought up together. 

Mr. M'Clure has shown himself a great adherent of the 
Pestalozzian system of education. He had cultivated Pesta- 
lozzi's acquaintance when upon his travels, and upon this recom- 
mendation brought Mr. Neef w r ith him to Philadelphia, to carry 
this system into operation. At first it appeared to succeed 
perfectly, soon however, Mr. Neef found so many opposers, 
apparently on account of his anti-religious principles, that he 



436 Early Travels in Indiana. 

gave up the business, and settled himself on a farm in the woods 
of Kentucky. He had just abandoned the farm to take the head 
of a boarding-school, which Mr. M'Clure intended to establish 
in New Harmony. Mr. Jennings, formerly mentioned, was 
likewise to co-operate in this school; his reserved and haughty 
character was ill suited for such a situation, and Messrs. Owen 
and M'Clure willingly consented to his withdrawing, as he would 
have done the boarding-school more injury, from the bad reputa- 
tion in which he stood, than he could have assisted it by his 
acquirements. An Englishman by birth, he was brought up for a 
military life; this he had forsaken to devote himself to clerical 
pursuits, had arrived in the United States as a Universalist preach- 
er, and had been received with much attention in that capacity 
in Cincinnati, till he abandoned himself with enthusiasm to the 
new social syste?n, and made himself openly and publicly known as 
an Atheist.* 

I passed the evening with the amiable Mr. M'Clure and 
Madam Fretageot, and became acquainted through them, with 
a French artist, Mons. Lesueur, calling himself uncle of Miss 
Virginia, as also a Dutch physician from Herzogenbusch, Dr. 
Troost, an eminent naturalist. Both are members of the com- 
munity, and have just arrived from a scientific pedestrian tour 
to Illinois and the southern part of Missouri, where they have 
examined the iron, and particularly the lead-mine works, as well 
as the peculiarities of the different mountains. Mr. Lesueur has 
besides discovered several species of fish, as yet undescribed. 
He was there too early in the season to catch many snakes. Both 
gentlemen had together collected thirteen chests of natural 
curiosities, which are expected here immediately. Mr. Lesueur 
accompanied the naturalist Perron, as draftsman in his tour to 
New South Wales, .under Captain Baudin, and possessed all the 
illuminated designs of the animals which were discovered for the 
first time on this voyage, upon vellum. This collection is unique 
of its kind, either as regards the interest of the objects represented, 
or in respect to their execution; and I account myself fortunate to 
have seen them through Mr. Lesueur's politeness. He showed me 
also the sketches he made while on his last pedestrian tour, as 
well as those during the voyage of several members of the society 
to Mount Vernon, clown the Ohio from Pittsburgh. On this 
voyage, the society had many difficulties to contend with, and 

*[He is at this time advertising a boarding school in the western country, on his 
own account, which is to be under his immediate superintendence.] — TRANS. 



Karl Bernhard. 437 

were obliged often to cut a path for the boat through the ice. 
The sketches exhibit the originality of talent of the artist. He 
had come with Mr. M'Clure in 1815, from France to Philadelphia, 
where he devoted himself to the arts and sciences. Whether 
he will remain long in this society or not, I cannot venture to 
decide.* 

* * * From the want of a church in Mount Vernon, the meet- 
ing was held in the court-house. It was a temporary log-house, 
which formed but one room. The chimney fire, and two tallow 
candles formed the whole illumination of it, and the seats were 
constructed of some blocks and boards, upon which upwards of 
twenty people sat. The singing was conducted by a couple of 
old folks, with rather discordant voices. The preacher then rose, 
and delivered us a sermon. I could not follow his discourse 
well, and was very much fatigued by my day's walk. In his 
prayer, however, the minister alluded to those who despise the 
word of the Lord, and prayed for their conviction and conver- 
sion. This hint was evidently aimed at the community in New 
Harmony and the new social system. In the sermon there was 
no such allusion. Probably the discourse was one of those, 
which he knew by heart; which he delivered in various places, 
and admitted of no interpolations. The service lasted till ten 
o'clock at night. 

* * * Eleven miles and a half higher, we saw Evansville 
upon an eminence upon the right shore, still an inconsiderable 
place, but busy; it being the principal place in the county of 
Vandeburg, in the state of Indiana, lying in the neighbourhood 
of a body of fertile land, and is a convenient landing place for 
emigrants, who go to the Wabash country. Upon the same shore 
are seen several dwellings upon the fresh turf, shaded by high 
green trees. Close below Evansville, a small river called Big 
Pigeon creek falls into the Ohio. In its mouth we saw several 
flat boats, with apparatus similar to pile-driving machines. 
These vessels belong to a contractor, who has entered into an 
engagement with the government, to make the Ohio free and clear 
of the snags and sawyers lying in its current. This work was 
discharged in a negligent manner, and the officer to whom the 
superintendence was committed, is censured for having suffered 
himself to be imposed upon. 

*[He lias left it some time since, as well as Dr. Troost.l — TRANS. 



From Recollections of the last ten years, passed in occa- 
sional residences and journeyings in the valley of the 
Mississippi, by Timothy Flint [1826], pp. 54-60. 

Flint, Timothy. 

Perhaps the foremost authority on the early life and history in the 
Mississippi Valley was Timothy Flint. He was born in Massachusetts, in 
1780. Graduating from Harvard, he entered the ministry, but later resigned — 
1814 — and entered upon missionary work. His territory was extensive, 
covering the greater part of the Mississippi valley. At different times, his 
headquarters were at Cincinnati, St. Louis and New Orleans. His extensive 
travel brought him in contact with all classes of people, in all aspects of 
society. He saw the first steamboat that descended the Mississippi river. 
He witnessed the rapid changes occurring in the West following the close of 
the second war with England. When his "Recollections" were published, 
they were read with keen interest. His efforts were directed toward bring- 
ing the people of the west together and acquainting them with each other. 
The important feature of his work was that most of it was original. This 
made it one of the most dearly prized accounts of the early western life. 

Having exhausted the immediate interest of the most promi- 
nent objects of curiosity in Cincinnati and its vicinity, at the 
commencement of March, I set out on a proposed tour through 
the state of Indiana, on its front upon Ohio, and then crossing 
the Ohio, to return to my family, through the state of Kentucky. 
The weather was mild, and the buds of the trees and shrubs were 
beginning to swell. The previous weather, from the tenth of 
December, had been more than usually severe. The mercury 
had frequently fallen below cypher. The people had a way of 
accounting for this as they had for many other calamities, by saying, 
that the hard winter had been imported by the Yankees, of whom 
unusual numbers had arrived the preceding autumn and winter. 
The Big Miami was the limit on the front, between the state of 
Ohio, and the then territory of Indiana. General Harrison's 
fine plantation is in the delta, which this river makes with the 
Ohio. Having crossed this river into Indiana, I found myself on 
the vast and fertile bottom made by the two rivers. I descended 
this bottom to Lawrenceburg, at this time one of the principal 
villages in the territory. The soil here, and for a considerable 
distance on all sides, is highly fertile, but exposed to inundation, 
which, together with its having a character for unhealthiness, 

(438) 



Timothy Flint. 439 

has hitherto kept this place in the back ground. The position 
evidently calls for a considerable town. 

I here obtained letters of introduction through the territory, 
and the next morning I plunged into the deep forest below this 
town. I remember well the brightness and beauty of the morn- 
ing. A white frost had covered the earth the preceding night. 
Dense white banks of fog, brilliantly illuminated by a cloudless 
sun, hung over the Ohio. The beautiful red-bird, that raises 
its finest song on a morning like this, was raising its mellow 
whistle among the copses. Columns of smoke rose from the cabins 
amidst the trees into the higher regions of the atmosphere, a 
cheerful accompaniment to all similar scenery, and which has 
impressed me, in its echoes ringing and dying away in the dis- 
tant forests, as having a very peculiar effect in the deep bottoms 
of the Ohio and Mississippi, is the loud and continued barking 
of the numerous packs of dogs that are kept there. They evi- 
dently feel animated by the cheering influence of such a morning, 
feel that these vast forests are their proper range; and by these 
continued barkings that echo through the woods, they seem to 
invite their masters to the hunt and the chase. 

On the margin of a considerable stream, whose name, I think, 
is the Hogan, a sufficiently barbarous name, I encountered the 
first bear that I had met in the woods. He seemed as little dis- 
posed to make acquaintance with me, as I with him. 

In this whole day's ride, I was continually coming in view of 
new cabins, or wagons, the inmates of which had not yet sheltered 
themselves in cabins. Whenever my course led me from the bot- 
toms of the Ohio, I found the bluffs, which invariably skirt the 
bottoms, very ridgy, and the soil but indifferent, and of what is 
here classed as second rate, and covered generally with a species 
of oak, called post oak, indicating a cold, spungy, and wet soil; 
into which, softened as it was by the frost coming out of it, my 
horse sunk at every step up to the fetlocks; yet in this com- 
paratively poor and ridgy soil, I could hear on all sides the settler's 
axe resounding, and the dogs barking, — sure indications, that the 
land had been, as the phrase is, "taken up." 

Few incidents, that occur to me as matters of interest, remain 
on my memory of this long trip on the Indiana shore. Most 
of the newly arrived settlers that I addressed, were from Yankee 
land. As usual, I refer you to books, that treat professedly 
upon that subject for precise geographical information. The 
inhabitants tell me, that, noth withstanding I see so much ordinary 



440 Early Travels in Indiana. 

land in this extent upon the Ohio, there are vast bodies of the 
richest land in it, particularly up the Wabash and its waters, 
where the prairies in the vicinity of Fort Harrison are said to 
vie with the richest and most beautiful of the Illinois and Missouri. 
The greater portion of the fertile lands was as yet unredeemed 
from the Indians. The country was evidently settling with 
great rapidity. The tide of emigration from the northeast was 
setting farther west. Ohio had already received its first tide 
and the wave was rolling onward. The southern portion of the 
emigration seemed to entertain no small apprehension, that this 
also would be a Yankee state. Indeed the population was very 
far from being in a state of mind, of sentiment, and affectionate 
mutual confidence, favourable to commencing their lonely condi- 
tion in the woods in harmonious intercourse. They were form- 
ing a state government. The question in all its magnitude, 
whether it should be a slave-holding state or not, was just now 
agitating. I was often compelled to hear the question debated 
by those in opposite interests, with no small degree of asperity. 
Many fierce spirits talked, as the clamorous and passionate are 
accustomed to talk in such cases, about opposition and "resistance 
unto blood." But the preponderance of more sober and re- 
flecting views, those habits of order and quietness that aversion 
to shedding blood, which so generally and so honorably apper- 
tain to the American character and institutions, operated in these 
wildernesses, among these inflamed and bitter spirits, with all 
their positiveness, ignorance, and clashing feeling , and with all 
their destitution of courts, and the regular course of settled laws 
to keep them from open violence. The question was not long after 
finally settled in peace. 

From the observations, which I made, which were however 
partial, and confined to the southern front of the state, I should 
have placed this state, in point of qualities of soil, behind Ohio, 
Illinois or Missouri. But it is here a general impression, that this 
state had large districts of the most fertile character. These 
tracts are admitted, as a melancholy drawback, appended to 
this great advantage, to be sickly. At the time I am writing, 
this state is supposed to contain nearly three hundred thousand 
inhabitants, a rate of increase considerably more rapid, than that 
of the states still farther west. It has a very extended front on 
the Ohio, extends back to the lakes, and its central outlet is the 
Wabash, a river highly favourable to boat navigation. At a 
considerable distance up this river is Vincennes, which, when I 



Timothy Flint. 441 

was there was the principal village in the state. It is situated 
pleasantly on the Wabash, surrounded by a beautiful and ex- 
tensive prairie. This place is now surpassed by Vevay, which 
has grown to be a considerable town. It possesses circumstances 
of peculiar interest. When I was there, the village had just 
commenced. I was lodged in the house of a respectable Swiss 
gentleman, who had married a wife from Kentucky. Such are 
the unions that result from bringing together the mountaineers of 
Switzerland, and the native daughters of the west. The people 
were prompt and general in attending divine service. The next 
evening, there was a warned meeting of the inhabitants, and the 
object was to locate the town-house, a market, and first, second 
and third streets. I attended the meeting. The night was 
dark and rainy. The deep and rich bottom, the trees of which 
had but just been cut down, was so muddy, that my feet sunk at 
every step in the mud. Huge beech and sycamore trunks of 
trees so impeded these avenues and streets, that were to be, that 
I doubt if a chaise could have made its way, by day light and the 
most careful driving, amidst the logs, when you hear about 
market-houses, and seminaries, and streets No. 1, 2, and 3, in 
the midst of a wilderness of fallen logs, you will have some 
idea of the language appropriate to a kind of speculation, almost 
peculiar to this country, that is to say, town-making. You will 
infer from this, too, what magnificent ideas these people have 
with respect to the future. I learned in recently ascending the 
Ohio, that these splendid anticipations are now realized, that 
the town-house, market, and streets actually exist, and that 
instead of huge sycamore trunks, they have now blocks of brick 
buildings. Its relative position, with respect to the state, and to 
Cincinnati and Louisville, is favourable to its future advance- 
ment. 

But what gave peculiar interest to this place was, that it was 
the resort of a flourishing colony from Vevay in Switzerland. 
Although this people could not bring here their glaciers and their 
Alps, in affectionate remembrance of their ancient home, they 
have brought hither their vines, their "simulatam Trojam," 
their Vevay on the Ohio in the midst of American forests. I had 
seen vineyards in Kentucky on a small scale. But this experi- 
ment on such a noble scale, so novel in America, was to me a most 
interesting spectacle. I was delighted with the frank and amiable 
character of the inhabitants, giving me back the images and recol- 
lections of them, from early reading. At that time they princi- 



442 Early Travels in Indiana. 

pally cultivated a blue grape, which, I think, they called the "cape 
grape." The wine from that grape was not pleasant to me, 
though connoisseurs assured me, that it only wanted age to be a 
rich wine. A position more unlike that, in which they had culti- 
vated the wine in their own country, could scarcely be found. 
There they reared it on sharp declivities of gravelly soil, levelled 
in terraces. It was here on a bottom of a loamy and extremely 
rich soil, on a surface perfectly level, and at the foot of a high 
bluff. The vine grows here, indeed, in the rankest luxuriance, 
and needs severe pruning. It overloads itself with an exuber- 
ance of clusters, which still want the high and racy flavour of the 
grape of the hills of Switzerland. But they are introducing other 
vines, particularly the sweet water-grape of Madeira. The culti- 
vation is understood at this time to be in a very prosperous 
state. From what I have seen, I believe it would prosper still 
more, if they should cultivate a grape, more indigenous to the 
soil; the "pine woods" grape of Louisiana, or the rich grape of 
Texas. 

At a small town at the mouth of Kentucky river, I crossed into 
that state. 



From A condensed geography and history of the western 
states, or the Mississippi valley, by Timothy Flint 
[1828], Vol. II., pp. 136-172. 

INDIANA. 

Length, 250. — Breadth, 150 miles. Between 37° 47' and 
41° 50' N. Latitude; and 7° 45' and 11° W. longitude. Bounded 
north by Michigan territory and lake. West by the state of 
Illinois. South by the Ohio, which divides it from -Kentucky; 
East by the state of Ohio. 

The whole of this state belongs to the valley of the Ohio, or 
lake Michigan. It is the first of the states, in advancing towards 
the east, and the north, where nature seems to have divided her 
surface between prairie and wood land. The greater proportion 
of this state is clearly timbered country. Here, too, we first 
find the number and manners of northern people predominating 
among the immigrants. Here we first discover, in many places, 
a clear ascendency of New England dialect, manners and popula- 
tion. Here, too, we discover the natural tendency of this order 
of things, and this class of immigrants rapidly, and yet silently 
to fill the country with inhabitants. Missouri and Illinois have 
occupied a greater space in public estimation, in newspaper 
description, and in general notoriety. The immigration to those 
states has been with four or six horse wagons, with large droves 
of cattle, with considerable numbers of negroes, and composed 
of immigrants, who had name and standing, who were heads of 
families, when they removed, and whose immigration was ac- 
companied with a certain degree of eclat. Of course the immigra- 
tion of a few families was attended with circumstances, which 
gave it public notoriety. The immigration to this state has been 
generally of a different character. It has been for the 
most part composed of young men, either unmarried or 
without families. It has been noiseless, and unnoticed. But 
the difference of the result strikes us with surprize. While the 
population of neither of these states exceeds 80,000, the population 
of this state, at this time, is supposed to exceed 200,000. 

Face of the country, soil, &c. The South front of this state is 
skirted with the usual belt of river hills, bluffs and knobs, known 
here by the name of "Ohio hills." They occupy a greater or 

(443) 



444 Early Travels in Indiana. 

less distance from the river; sometimes leaving between their 
base and the river, a bottom of two or three miles in width; and 
sometimes, and for no inconsiderable part of the whole length of 
the southern boundary, they tower directly from the waters of 
the Ohio. They have a thousand aspects of grandeur and beauty, 
often rising higher, than 300 feet above the level of the river; and 
the eye of the southern traveller, ascending the Ohio, which has 
been used to rest on bottoms boundless to vision, on swamps and 
plains, and regions without a rock or a hill in the scenery, never 
tires, in surveying these beautiful bluffs, especially in the spring, 
when their declivities are crimsoned with the red bud, or whitened 
with the brilliant blossoms of the dog wood, or rendered verdant 
with the beautiful May apple. 

A range of knobs, stretching from the Ohio to White river of 
the Wabash, forms the limits of the table lands, that separate 
the waters of the Ohio from those of White river. North of the 
Wabash, between Tippicanoe and Ouitanon, the Wabash hills 
are precipitous, and a considerable extent of country is rough and 
broken. There are, in different parts of the state, considerable 
extents of country that may be pronounced hilly. Such is the 
south front of the state to a considerable distance from the Ohio. 
There are not such extensive plains in this state, as in Illinois. Nor are 
there any hills to vie in height with those back of Shawneetown. 
But, with some few exceptions, the greater proportion of this 
state may be pronounced one vast level. To particularize the 
level tracts would be to describe three fifths of the state. The 
prairies here, as elsewhere, are uniformly level. The wide extent 
of country, watered by White river, is generally level. The 
prairies have the usual distinction of being high, and low, swampy 
and alluvial. For a wide extent on the north front of the state, 
between the Wabash and lake Michigan the country is generally 
an extended plain, alternately prairie and timbered land; with 
a great proportion of swampy lands, and small lakes and ponds. 
The prairies are no ways different from those of Illinois. They 
are alike, rich, level, and covered with grass and flowering plants. 
Some of them, like those of Illinois and Missouri, are broader 
than can be measured by the eye. Their divisions are marked 
off, wherever streams cross them, by belts of timbered land. All 
the rivers of this state have remarkably wide alluvions. Every 
traveller has spoken with admiration of the beauty and fertility 
of the prairies along the course of the Wabash, particularly of 
those in the vicinity of Fort Harrison. We have heard competent 



Timothy Flint. 445 

judges, who have had opportunities of comparison, prefer the 
prairies on this part of the river, both for beauty and fertility to 
those of the Illinois, and the upper Mississippi. Perhaps no part 
of the western world can show greater extents of rich lands in 
one body, than that extent of the White river country, of which 
Indianapolis is the centre. — Judging of Indiana, from travelling 
through the south front, from twelve to twenty miles from the 
Ohio, we should not, probably, compare it with Ohio or Illinois. 
But now, that the greater part of the territory is purchased of 
the Indians, and that all is surveyed, and well understood, it is 
found, that this state possesses as large a proportion of first rate 
lands, as any in the western country. With some few exceptions 
of wide and naked prairies, the divisions of timbered and prairie 
lands are more happily balanced, than in other parts of the western 
country. Many rich prairies are long and narrow, so that the 
whole can be taken up, and yet timber be easily accessible by all 
the settlers.— There are hundreds of prairies only large enough 
for a few farms. Even in the large prairies there are those beauti- 
ful islands of timbered land, which form such a striking feature in 
the western prairies. The great extents of fertile land, the happy 
distribution of rivers and springs may be one reason for the 
unexampled rapidity, with which this state has peopled. Another 
reason may be, that being a non-slaveholding state, and next 
in position beyond Ohio, it was happily situated to arrest the tide 
of immigration, that set beyond Ohio, after that state was filled. 

But as one of the chief objects, in such a work as this, must 
necessarily be, to point out the relative position and quality of 
the first rate lands, we shall, perhaps, be least likely to confuse 
the reader, by adding a few remarks in a single view, upon the 
qualities of the soil, upon the several rivers, and near the several 
towns, which we shall describe in the progress of our remarks. 
The forest trees, shrubs, plants and grasses do not materially 
differ from those of Illinois and Missouri. There is one specific 
difference that should be noted. There is a much greater pro- 
portion of beech timber, which increases so much, as we advance 
east that in Ohio, it is clearly the principal kind of timber. This 
state is equally fertile in corn, rye, oats, barley, wheat and the 
cereal gramina in general. Vast quantities of the richer prairies 
and bottoms are too rich for wheat, until the natural wild lux- 
uriance of tendency in the soil has been reduced by cropping. 
Upland rice has been attempted with success. Some of the warm 
and sheltered valleys have yielded, in favorable years, consider- 



446 Early Travels in Indiana. 

able crops of cotton. No country can exceed this in its adapted- 
ness for rearing the finest fruits and fruit bearing shrubs. Wild 
berries, in many places are abundant; and on some of the prairies, 
the strawberries are large, rich and abundant. It is affirmed, 
that in the northern parts of this state in the low prairies, whole 
tracts are covered with the beautiful fowl-meadow grass, poa 
pratensis, of the north. It is a certain and admitted fact, that 
wherever the Indians, or the French have inhabited, long enough 
to destroy the natural prairie grass, which, it is well known, is 
soon eradicated, by being pastured by the domestic animals, 
that surround a farmer's barn, this grass is replaced by the blue 
grass of the western country, which furnishes not only a verdant 
and beautiful sward, but covers the earth with a perfect mat of 
rich fodder, not unlike the second crop, which is cut in the northern 
states, as the most valuable kind of fodder. For all the objects 
of farming, and raising grain, flour, hemp, tobacco, cattle, sheep, 
swine, horses, and generally the articles of the northern and 
middle states, immigrants could not desire a better country, than 
may be found in Indiana. In the rich bottoms in the southern 
parts, the reed cane, and uncommonly large ginseng are abun- 
dant. 

Climate, &c. Little need be said upon this head; for this 
state, situated in nearly the same parallels with Illinois and Mis- 
souri, has much the same temperature. That part of it, which is 
contiguous to lake Michigan, is more subject to copious and fre- 
quent rains; and being otherwise low and marshy, much of the 
land becomes too wet for cultivation. Some have described the 
country and climate, near lake Michigan, as productive and 
delightful. — Neither the soil, timber, nor the experiments of the 
inhabitants, that have attempted cultivation here, justify these 
descriptions. For a considerable distance from the lake, sand 
heaps covered with a few stinted junipers, and swept by the cold, 
dreary and desolating gales of the lake, give no promise of a fine 
country or climate. But beyond the influence of the lake breeze, 
the climate is cool, mild and temperate. The state in general is 
somewhat less exposed to the extremes of heat and cold, than 
Illinois. 

In point of salubrity, we can do no more than repeat the re- 
marks, which have so often been found applicable to the western 
country in general, and which from the nature of things must 
apply to all countries. The high and rolling regions of this state 
are as healthy, as the same kind of lands is found to be in the other 



Timothy Flint. 447 

parts of the United States. The wet prairies, the swampy lands, 
the tracts that are contiguous to the small lakes and ponds, deep 
and inundated bottoms, intersected by bayous, generate fever and 
ague, and autumnal fevers, and create a bilious tendency in all 
the disorders of the country. The beautiful prairies above 
Vincennes, on the Wabash, in the neighborhood of fort Harrison 
and Tippicanoe, are found to have an unfavorable balance against 
their fertility, the beauty of their appearance, and the ease, with 
which they are cultivated, in their insalubrity. That the settlers 
in general have found this state, taken as a whole, favorable to 
health, the astonishing increase of the population bears ample 
testimony. 

The winters are mild, compared with those of New England, 
or even Pennsylvania. Winter commences, in its severity about 
Christmas, and lasts seldom more than six weeks. During this, 
time in most seasons, the rivers, that have not very rapid currents, 
are frozen. Though winters occur, in which the Wabash can 
not be crossed upon the ice. About the middle of February, the 
severity of winter is past. In the northern parts of the state 
snow sometimes, though rarely, falls a foot and a half in depth. 
In the middle and southern parts, it seldom falls more than six 
inches. Poach trees are generally in blossom early in March. 
The forests begin to be green from the 5th to the 15th of April. 
Vast numbers of flowering shrubs are in full flower, before they 
are in leaf, which gives an inexpressible charm to the early ap- 
pearance of spring. Vegetation is liable to be injured both by 
earty and late frosts. 

Chief towns. Character of the country, in which they are situ- 
ated, &c. None of the western states have shown a greater 
propensity for town making, than this. — Nature has furnished 
it with so many delightful sites for towns, that their very fre- 
quency subtract from the importance of any individual position. 
In no part of the world has the art of trumpeting, and lauding 
the advantages, conveniences and future prospects, of the town 
to be sold, been carried to greater perfection. To mention, in 
detail, all the villages, that have really attained some degree of 
consequence, would only furnish a barren catalogue of names. 
We will mention the chief of these on the Ohio, in descending 
order, beginning with Lawrenceburg on the southeastern angle 
of the state. 

This town is the seat of justice for the county of Dearborn. 
It stands on the north bank of the Ohio, twenty-three miles below 



448 Early Travels in Indiana. 

Cincinnati, and two below the Big Miami, which is the eastern 
limit of the state. This town is in the centre of a rich and deep 
bottom. The ancient village was built on the first bottom, 
which was frequently exposed to inundation. It is not uncommon 
for the water to rise four or five feet above the foundations of the 
houses and stores, in which case the inhabitants remove to the 
upper story, and drive their domestic animals to the hills. Visits 
and tea parties are projected in the inundated town; and the ve- 
hicles of transport are skiffs and periogues. — The period of the 
flood, from ancient custom, and from the suspension of all the 
customary pursuits, has become a time of carnival. The floods, 
instead of creating disease, wash the surface of the earth, carry 
off vegetable and animal matter, that would otherwise putrify, 
and are supposed to be rather conducive to health than other- 
wise. The old town, built on the first bank, had been stationary 
for many years. New Lawrenceburg has been recently built 
on the second bank, and on elevated ground, formed by the bank 
of Tanner's creek. Since the commencement of this town, few 
places have made more rapid progress. — Many of the new houses 
are handsome; and some of them make a splendid show from the 
river. Its position, in relation to the river, and the rich adjacent 
country, and the Big Miami is highly eligible. It has a number of 
respectable commencing manufactories, and promises to be a 
large town. 

Aurora is a new village, at the mouth of Hogan creek, four 
miles below, on the Ohio. It contains between sixty and seventy 
dwellings. Rising Sun, thirteen miles below Lawrenceburg, 
occupies a beautiful position on the Ohio, and is a village some- 
thing larger, than Aurora. 

Vevay is the seat of justice for Switzerland county, and is 
situated eight miles above the point, opposite the mouth of 
Kentucky river, and forty-five miles below Cincinnati. It con- 
tains between two and three hundred houses, a court house, jail, 
academy, a printing office, from which issues a weekly journal, a 
branch of the bank of Indiana, and some other public buildings. 
This interesting town was commenced in 1804, by thirty Swiss 
families, to whom the United States made a grant, under par- 
ticular and favorable stipulations, of a considerable tract of land, 
to patronize the cultivation of the vine. The patriarch of this 
colony was a Swiss gentleman of the name of J. J. Dufour, who 
has continued an active and intelligent friend to the town ever 
since. The colony soon received considerable accessions from 



Timothy Flint. 449 

the mountains of Switzerland. In grateful remembrance of their 
native hills, and to create in the bosom of their adopted country 
tender associations with their ancient country, they named their 
stream Venoge, and their town Vevay. Messrs. Dufour, Morerod, 
Bettens, Siebenthal, and others, commenced the cultivation of 
the grape on a large scale. This cultivation has gone on steadily 
increasing. An hundred experiments have been since commenced, 
in different points of the West. But this still remains the largest 
vineyard in the United States. — We have witnessed nothing in 
our country, in the department of gardening and cultivation, 
which can compare with the richness of this vineyard, in the 
autumn, when the clusters are in maturity. Words feebly paint 
such a spectacle. The horn of plenty seems to have been emptied 
in the production of this rich fruit. We principally remarked the 
blue or Cape grape and the Madiera grape. The wine of the 
former has been preferred to the Claret of Bordeaux. The fruit 
seems to have a tendency to become too succulent, and abundant. 
It is now supposed that some of our native grapes will more 
easily acclimate to the country and soil, and make a better wine. 
These amiable, industrious and intelligent people are constantly 
profiting by the benefit of experience. This species of agriculture 
already yields them a better profit than any other practised in 
our country. They are every year improving on the vintage of 
the past. They are the simple, amiable, and intelligent people 
that we might expect from the prepossessions of early reading, 
from the vine clad hills of Switzerland. They are mostly protes- 
tants in their worship. They happily compound the vivacity of 
the French with the industry of the Germans. Like the former, 
they love gaiety and dancing. Like the latter, they easily fall in 
with the spirit of our institutions, love our country and its laws; 
intermarry with our people, and are in all respects a most amiable 
people. They have a considerable number of professional men 
in Vevay; a public library, a literary society, and many of the 
comforts and improvements of a town. Mr. Dufour has dis- 
tinguished himself by agricultural publications, particularly upon 
the culture of the vine. This industrious people have created 
some manufactures peculiar to themselves, particularly that of 
straw bonnets. The position of the town is extremely fortunate, 
in relation to the back country, and the other interior large towns. 
It is equi-distant from Lexington, Louisville and Cincinnati, 
being forty-five miles from each. 

Madison, still lower on the Ohio, is considered to be nearly 

T— 29 



450 Early Travels in Indiana. 

equi-distant between Louisville and Cincinnati. It was com- 
menced in 1811, and is about the size of Vevay; and is perhaps 
still better built, than that town. It is central to a great extent 
of flourishing back country; and is one of the most pleasant and 
thriving towns in the state. 

New London, ten miles lower on the river, and Charlestown, 
twenty-nine miles lower, and two miles back from the Ohio, are 
small villages. The land about the latter town was a grant of 
gratitude from Virginia to the brave general Clark, and his sol- 
diers, for their achievements at the close of the revolutionary war. 

Jeffersonville is situated just above the falls of Ohio. — The 
town of Louisville on the opposite shore, and the beautiful and 
rich country beyond, together with the broad and rapid river, 
forming whitening sheets and cascades from shore to shore, the 
display of steam boats, added to the high banks, the neat village, 
and the noble woods on the north bank, unite to render the scenery 
of this village uncommonly rich and diversified. It is a consider- 
able and handsome village with some houses, that have a show of 
magnificence. It has a land office, a post office, a printing office, 
and some other public buildings. It was contemplated to canal 
the falls on this side of the river; and a company with a large 
capital was incorporated by the legislature. In 1819, the work 
was commenced, but has not been prosecuted with the success, 
that was hoped. — The completion of the canal on the opposite side, 
will, probably, merge this project, by rendering it useless. — One 
of the principal chutes of the river, in low water, is near this shore; 
and experienced pilots, appointed by the state, are always in 
readiness, to conduct boats over the falls. Clarksville is a small 
village just below this place. 

New Albany is the seat of justice for Floyd county; and is 
four and a half miles below Jeffersonville. The front street is 
three quarters of a mile in length, and makes a respectable appear- 
ance from the river. Many steam boats, that can not pass the 
falls, are laid up for repair at this place, during the summer. It 
has a convenient ship yard for building steam boats. It is a 
thriving and busy village. 

Fredonia, Leavenworth, Rockport, and Evansville occur, as 
we descend the Ohio. The last, is a village of some consequence. 
It is the landing place for immigrants, descending the Ohio, for 
the Wabash. It is at the mouth of Big Pigeon creek, fifty-four 
miles south of Vincennes, and forty-five above the mouth of the 



Timothy Flint. 451 

Wabash. — Being about half way between the falls of Ohio and 
the mouth, it is a noted stopping place for steam boats. 

Corydon, the seat of justice for the county of Harrison, was 
for a considerable time the political metropolis of the state. It 
is distant twenty-three miles from Jeffersonville, and thirteen 
from the Ohio. It is situated in the forks of Indian creek. North 
of the town, spreads an extensive region of barrens full of sink 
holes, and lime stone caves. 

Salem is on a small branch of Blue river, thirty-four miles 
north of Corydon. It is a very nourishing county town, and 
contains more than 100 houses. Brownstown, Paoli, and Wash- 
ington are interior county towns. The following towns are on 
the Wabash, as we descend the river. Above Tippicanoe is the 
old French post of Ouitanon. It is at the head of boatable navi- 
gation on the river, in the centre of what was recently the country 
of the savages. Its origin dates back nearly 100 years. — The 
inhabitants are a mixture of French and Indian blood. Merom 
is on a high bluff of the Wabash, opposite La Motte prairie, in 
Illinois. It is in the centre of rich and beautiful prairies. It has 
peopled with great rapidity. Terre Haute is situated two miles 
below fort Harrison, as its name imports, on a high bank of the 
Wabash. It is a growing and important village. Shakertown, 
fifteen miles above Vincennes, contains a community of the indus- 
trious people, called, Shakers, and exhibits the marks of order 
and neatness, that are so characteristic of those people every- 
where. 

Vincennes is, after Kaskaskia, the oldest place in the western 
world. It was settled in 1735, by French emigrants from Canada. 
They fixed themselves here in a beautiful, rich and isolated spot, 
in the midst of the deserts of the new world. For an age they 
had little intercourse with any other people, than savages. Their 
interests, pursuits and feelings were identified with them. Their 
descendants are reclaimed from their savage propensities; and 
have the characteristic vivacity, amiableness, and politeness of 
the French people everywhere. It is distant 150 miles above the 
mouth of the Wabash; and fifty-four from the nearest point of 
the Ohio. It has improved rapidly of late; and is said to contain 
more than 300 houses, a brick court house and hotel, a jail, a 
respectable building for an academy, a Roman catholic and a 
presbyterian church, a land office, a post office, two printing 
offices, from one of which is issued a respectable gazette, a bank, 
and some other public buildings. It is situated contiguous to a 



452 Early Travels in Indiana. 

beautiful and extensive prairie, 5,000 acres of which are culti- 
vated as a common field, after the ancient French customs. It 
was for a long time the seat of the territorial government, and 
still has more trade, than any other place in the state. The plat 
of the town is level, and laid off with great regularity. The 
houses have extensive gardens back of them, filled, after the French 
fashion, with crowded fruit trees. It is accessible, for the greater 
part of the year, by steam boats ; and is a place of extensive supply 
of merchandize to the interior of the state. Volney, who visited 
this place not long after the setting up of the Federal government 
here, gives a very graphic and faithful account of the appearance 
of this place, and the adjoining country, of the French inhabitants 
and their manners. At the same time, he presents a revolting 
picture of the manner, in which the Americans had treated them. 
He represents them to have been plundered, and insulted by the 
Kentuckians, soon after the close of the revolutionary war. Per- 
haps he had not learned, that Vincennes had been, for a long time, 
a nest of savages, from which they fitted out their murderous 
expeditions; and that it was natural, that the Kentuckians, who 
had suffered so much from them, should be disposed to retaliate 
upon the people, who had harbored them. He represents them, 
subsequently, to have been cheated out of their lands by the 
Americans. Their ignorance, he says, at this time was profound. 
But little more than half their number could read, or write; and 
he avers, that he could instantly distinguish them, when mixed 
with the Americans, by their meagre and tanned faces, and their 
look of poverty and desolation. However just this picture may 
have been in 1796, it is all reversed now. — Most of the inhabitants 
have an air of ease and affluence; and Vincennes furnishes a Dleas- 
ant and respectable society. 

Harmony, fifty-four miles below Vincennes, and something 
more than 100 by water above the mouth of the Wabash, is the 
seat of justice for the county of Posey. It is situated on the east 
bank of the river, sixteen miles from the nearest point of the Ohio, 
on a wide, rich, and heavily timbered plateau, or second bottom. 
It is high, healthy, has a fertile soil, and is in the vicinity of small 
and rich prairies; and is, on the whole, a pleasant and well chosen 
position. It was first settled, in 1814, by a religious sect of Ger- 
mans, denominated Harmonites. They were emigrants from 
Germany, and settled first on Beaver creek in Pennsylvania. 
They moved in a body, consisting of 800 souls, to this place. 
Their spiritual and temporal leader was George Rapp; and all 



Timothy Flint. 453 

the lands and possesions were held in his name. Their society 
seems to have been a kind of intermediate sect between the 
Shakers and Moravians. They held their property in common. 
Their regulations were extremely strict and severe. In their 
order, industry, neatness, and perfect subordination, they resem- 
bled the Shakers. They soon erected from eighty to one hundred 
large and substantial buildings. Their lands were laid off with 
the most perfect regularity, and were as right angled, and square 
as compass could make them. They were wonderfully successful 
here, as they had been in other places, in converting a wilderness 
into a garden in a short time. They had even the luxury of a 
botanic garden and a green house. Their great house of assembly, 
with its wings and appendages, was nearly an hundred feet square. 
Here they lived, and labored in common, and in profound peace. 
But from some cause, their eyes were turned from the rich fields, 
and the wide prairies, and the more southern and temperate 
climate of the Wabash towards Beaver creek, the place, where 
they had first settled. While they were under the influence of these 
yearnings, the leader of a new sect came upon them. — This was 
no other than Robert Owen of New Lanark, in Scotland; a pro- 
fessed philosopher of a new school, who advocated new principles, 
and took new views of society. He calls his views upon this sub- 
ject "the social system." He was opulent, and disposed to make 
a grand experiment of his principles on the prairies of the Wabash. 
He purchased the lands and the village of Mr. Rapp, at an expense, 
it is said, of 190,000 dollars. In a short time there were admitted 
to the new establishment from seven to eight hundred persons. 
They danced, all together, one night in every week, and had a 
concert of music in another. The Sabbath was occupied in the 
delivery and hearing of philosophical lectures. Two of Mr. 
Owen's sons and Mr. M'Clure, joined him from Scotland. The 
society at New Harmony, as the place was called, excited a great 
deal of interest and remark in every part of the United States. 
Great numbers of distinguished men in all the walks of life wrote 
to the society, making enquiries, respecting its prospects, and 
rules; and expressing a desire, at some future time, to join it. 
Mr. Owen remained at New Harmony, but little more than a 
year; in which time he made a voyage to Europe. The fourth 
of July, 1826, he promulgated his famous declaration of "mental 
independence." The society had began to moulder before this 
time. He has left New Harmony, and "the social system" seems 
to be abandoned. It is to be hoped, that this beautiful village, 



454 Eakly Travels in Indiana. 

which has been the theatre of such singular and opposite experi- 
ments, will again flourish. 

Brookville is a pleasant and a very considerable village, in the 
folks of the beautiful river White water. It is noted for the num- 
ber and enterprize of its mechanics and manufacturers. A num- 
ber of its public and private buildings are of brick, and are respect- 
able. It has grist mills, saw mills, carding machines, a printing 
office, and numbers of the common mechanic shops, where the 
usual articles of city manufacture are made for exportation. 
The town and the public square are on a fine and commanding 
level. — The streets are so situated, that they are easily kept clean. 
The position of the town, its salubrity, the clearness and coldness 
of its waters, and the adjoining scenery give this place uncommon 
advantages for manufactures. The enterprising inhabitants have 
not failed to avail themselves of these advantages. The sur- 
rounding country is finely timbered, and watered. The soil is 
rich and productive; and has acquired reputation for the excellence 
of its tobacco. It is at once extensive and .populous. This village 
can not fail to become a considerable town. The number of 
houses exceeds one hundred. 

Harrison is situated on the north shore of White water, eight 
miles from its mouth, eighteen north-east [south-east] of Brookville, 
and in the centre of an excellent body of land. — The village is 
divided between the jurisdiction of Ohio and Indiana. In the very 
rich and extensive bottoms, that surround this village, are found 
great numbers of Indian mounds. They contain large quantities of 
human bones, in all stages of decay. Indian axes, vases, and 
implements of war and domestic use, abound in them. In the 
bottom of most of them are found brands, coal and ashes; indica- 
tions, from which antiquarians, have inferred, that they were 
places of sacrifice, and that the victims were probably human. 

Paoli, Mount Sterling, Washington, Princeton, Salisbury, 
New Lexington, Charleston, Salem, Brownston, &c. are seats of 
justice to their several counties, and are places of greater or loss 
importance. In a country, where every year produces new towns, 
some of them of considerable importance, and where the scene 
of cultivation, population and improvement, is shifting under the 
eye of the surveyor and traveller, it can not be supposed, that 
this is, by any means, a complete list of the towns, that have 
arisen, and are continually springing up, in this rapidly populating 
state. It is as complete, as is attainable by our means at present. 
We close the list with the political metropolis of the state. 



Timothy Flint. 455 

Indianapolis. This town, situated on the west [east] bank of 
White river, has had as rapid a growth, as any one that has arisen 
in the western country. It is in the centre of one of the most 
extensive and fertile bodies of land in the western world; nearly 
central to the state, on White river, and at a point accessible by 
steam boats, in common stages of the Wabash. No river in 
America, according to its size and extent, has greater bodies of 
fertile land, than White river. The country is populating about 
this town with unexampled rapidity. The town itself has grown 
up like the prophet's gourd. But a few years since, and it was a 
solid and deep forest, where the surprised traveller now sees com- 
pact streets and squares of brick buildings, respectable public 
buildings, manufactories, mechanic shops, printing offices, busi- 
ness and bustle. Such is the present aspect of Indianapolis, 
which is supposed to contain between two and three hundred 
houses. It will, probably, become one the largest towns between 
Cincinnati and the Mississippi. 

The river Chicago empties into lake Michigan, near the terri- 
torial limits of Indiana and Illinois. Its harbor is the south- 
western extremity of that lake. Fort Dearborn, where the bloody 
tragedy of September, 1815, was enacted by the Indians, in the 
massacre of its garrison, was, until recently, a military post of 
the United States. It has lately been abandoned. At the mouth 
of this river is the only harbor on the lake for a great distance; 
and when ever a canal shall unite the Illinois with the lake, it 
will become a place of great commercial importance. 

Indians. Until recently, they owned the greater part of the 
fertile lands in this state. Most of these lands have lately been 
purchased of them by treaty. The names of the tribes, as they 
used to be, convey little idea of their present position and num- 
bers. Great numbers of them have emigrated far to the west, on 
White river and Arkansas. Others have strayed into Canada, 
or towards the sources of the Mississippi, and their deserted place 
are rapidly filling with the habitations of white men. Their 
names, as they used to be, are Mascontins, Piankashaws, Kicka- 
pbos, Delawares, Miamies, Shawnees, Weeas, Ouitanons, Eel 
rivers and Pottawattomies. Their present numbers can not 
exceed four or five thousand souls. It is an unquestionable evi- 
dence of the fertility of the country in the interior of Indiana, 
that it was once the seat of the most dense Indian population in 
the western country. — The Indians invariably fixed in greatest 
numbers, where the soil was fertile, the country healthy, and the 



456 Early Travels in Indiana. 

means of transport on water courses easy and extensive. Such 
countries abounded in fish and game, and such was the country 
in question. The Indians in this country were invaded, in 1791, 
by general Wilkinson. He destroyed their principal town. It 
contained 120 houses, eighty of which were roofed with shingles. 
The gardens and improvements about it were delightful. There 
was a tavern with cellars, bar, public and private rooms; and the 
whole indicated no small degree of order and civilization. The 
prophet's town, destroyed by general Harrison in November, 
1811, was a considerable place. 

Game and Fish. The interior and northern parts of this state 
are abundantly stocked with game. Bears, and especially deer, 
abound. Wild turkeys have been supposed by some to abound 
as much on the waters of White river, as they do in the settled 
regions. Hundreds are sometimes driven from one corn field. 
Prairie hens, partridges and grouse abound on the prairies, and 
in some seasons, wild pigeons are seen here in countless numbers. 
Where they roost, the limbs of the trees are broken off in all 
directions by their numbers. Venomous snakes and noxious 
reptiles are sometimes seen, especially in the vicinity of ledges of 
rocks. The rattle snake and the copper head are the most numer- 
ous and dangerous. The streams, and especially those that com- 
municate with lake Michigan, are abundant in fish of the best 
qualities. The number and excellence of the fish, and the ease, 
with which they are taken, are circumstances of real importance 
and advantage to the first settlers, and help to sustain them, until 
they are enabled to subsist by the avails of cultivation. 

Minerals and Fossils. There are salt springs in different 
parts of the state. We do not know, that any of them are worked 
to much extent. The salt has hitherto been chiefly brought from 
the United States' Saline, back of Shawneetown, or from the 
Salines of Kenhawa.— Stone coal of the best quality is found in 
various places. — Native copper has been discovered in small 
masses, in the northern parts of the state. "Iron ore is also dis- 
covered in some places. But in general it is a country too level 
to be a mineral one. Although from the first settlement of the 
country, it has been asserted, that there is a silver mine near 
Ouitanon. 

Antiquities. We have seen, that this state possessed a numer- 
ous Indian population. Their mounds, their sepulchres, their 
runined villages, the sward of blue grass, which indicates in times 
nearer, or remote, the position of an Indian village, their imple- 



Timothy Flint. 457 

ments of war and agriculture, dug up by the spade, or turned up 
by the plough, strike us on all sides, as we travel through this 
state. They can not but excite deep and serious thoughts in a 
reflecting mind. — French traditions relate, that an exterminating 
battle took place in a spot, which is now designated by two or 
three small mounds, near where fort Harrison now stands. The 
battle was fought between the Indians of the Mississippi, and of 
the Wabash. The prize of conquest was the lands, which were 
adjacent to the field of battle. A thousand warriors fought on 
each side. The contest commenced with the sun, and was 
fought with all the barbarity and desperation of Indian bravery. 
The Wabash warriors were victorious with seven survivors; and 
the vanquished came off with only five. 

Curiosities. Like Alabama and Tennessee, this state abounds 
with subterranean wonders, in the form of caves. Many have 
been explored, and some of them have been described. One of 
them, extensively known in the western country by the name 
of 'the Epsom salts cave,' merits a particular description. We 
shall give it in the words of a letter communicated to the American 
Antiquarian Society, by John H. Farnham, Esq. 

'Your letter, requesting a description of my Epsom salts cave 
has come to hand. From the particulars enumerated in your 
request, the information on each point must necessarily be very 
limited. 

'The cave is situated in the north-west quarter of section 27, 
in township No. 3, of the second easterly range in the district of 
lands offered for sale at Jeffersonville. — The precise time of its 
discovery is difficult to ascertain. I have conversed with several 
men who had made several transient visits to the interior of the 
cave about eleven years ago, at which time it must have exhibited 
a very interesting appearance, being, to use their own phraseology, 
covered like snow with the salts. At this period, some describe 
the salts to have been from six to nine inches deep, on the bottom 
of the cave, on which lumps of an enormous size were interspersed, 
while the sides presented the same impressive spectacle with the 
bottom, being covered with the same production. Making liberal 
allowances for the hyperbole of discoverers and visitors, I can 
not help thinking that the scenery of the interior at this time was 
highly interesting, and extremely picturesque. I found this 
opinion upon conversations with general Harrison and major 
Floyd, who visited the cave at an early period, and whose intelli- 



458 Early Travels in Indiana. 

gence would render them less liable to be deceived by novel 
appearances. 

'The hill, in which the cave is situated, is about 400 feet 
high from the base to the most elevated point; and the prospect 
to the south-east, in a clear day, is exceedingly fine, commanding 
an extensive view of the hills and valleys bordering on Big Blue 
river. The top of the hill is covered principally with oak and 
chestnut. The side to the south-east is mantled with cedar. 
The entrance is about midway from the base to the summit, and 
the surface of the cave preserves in general, about that elevation ; 
although I must acknowledge this to be conjectural, as no experi- 
ments have been made with a view to ascertain the fact. It is, 
probably, owing to this middle situation of the cave, that it is 
much drier than is common. 

'After entering the cave by an aperture of twelve or fifteen 
feet wide, and in height, in one place, three or four feet, you 
descend with easy and gradual steps into a large and spacious 
room, which continues about a quarter of a mile, pretty nearly 
the same appearance, varying in height from eight to thirty feet, 
and in breadth from ten to twenty. In this distance the roof is, 
in some places, arched; in others a plane; and in one place, par- 
ticularly, it resembles an inside view of the roof of a house. At 
the distance above named, the cave forks; but the right hand 
fork soon terminates, while the left rises by a flight of rocky 
stairs, nearly ten feet high, into another story, and pursues a 
course at this place nearly south-east. Here the roof commences 
a regular arch, the height of which from the floor, varies from five 
to eight feet, and the width of the cave from six to twelve feet; 
which continues to what is called the creeping place, from the 
circumstance of having to crawl ten or twelve feet into the next 
large room. From this place to the 'Pillar,' a distance of about 
one mile and a quarter, the visitor finds an alternate succession 
of large and small rooms, variously decorated; sometimes mount- 
ing elevated points by gradual or difficult ascents, and again 
descending as far below; sometimes travelling on a pavement, or 
climbing over huge piles of rocks, detached from the roof by some 
convulsion of nature; and thus continues his route, until he arrives 
at the pillar. 

'The aspect of this large and stately white column, as it comes 
in sight from the dim reflection of the torches, is grand and im- 
pressive. Visitors have seldom pushed their enquiries farther 
than two or three hundred yards beyond this pillar. This column 



Timothy Flint. 459 

is about fifteen feet in diameter, from twenty to thirty in height, 
and regularly reeded from the top to the bottom. In the vicinity 
of this spot are some inferior pillars of the same appearance and 
texture. Chemically speaking, it is difficult for me to say what 
are the constituent parts of these columns, but lime appears to 
be the base. Major Warren, who is certainly a competent judge, 
is of opinion that they are satin spar. 

T have thus given you an imperfect sketch of the mechanical 
structure and appearance of the cave. It only remains to men- 
tion its productions. 

'The first in importance is the sulphat of magnesia, or Epsom 
salts, which, as has been previously remarked, abounds through- 
out this cave in almost its whole extent, and which, I believe, has 
no parallel in the history of that article. This neutral salt is 
fouiid in a great variety of forms, and in many different stages of 
formation. Sometimes in lumps, varying from one to ten pounds 
in weight. The earth exhibits a shining appearance, from the 
numerous particles interspersed throughout the huge piles of dirt 
collected in different parts of the cave. The walls are covered in 
different places with the same article, and re-production goes on 
rapidly. With a view to ascertain this fact, I removed from a 
particular place every vestige of salt, and in four or five weeks the 
place was covered with small needle-shaped crystals, exhibiting 
the appearance of frost. 

'The quality of the salt in this cave is inferior to none; and 
when it takes its proper stand in regular and domestic practice, 
must be of national utility. With respect to the resources of 
this cave, I will venture to say, that every competent judge must 
pronounce it inexhaustible. The worst earth that has been tried, 
will yield four pounds of salt to the bushel; and the best, from 
twenty to twenty-five pounds. 

'The next production is the nitrate of lime, or salt-petre earth. 
There are vast quantities of this earth, and equal in strength to 
any that I have ever seen. There are also large quantities of the 
nitrate of allumine, or nitrate of argil, which will yield as much 
nitrate of potash, or saltpetre, in proportion to the quantities of 
earth, as the nitrate of lime. 

'The three articles above enumerated, are first in quantity 
and importance; but there are several others, which deserve 
notice as subjects of philosophical curiosity. The sulphat of 
lime, or plaster of Paris, is to be seen variously formed; ponder- 
ous, crystalized and impalpable or soft, light, and rather spongy. 



460 Early Travels in Indiana. 

Vestiges of the sulphat of iron are also to be seen in one or two 
places. Small specimens of the carbonate, and also the nitrate 
of magnesia, have been found. The rocks in the cave principally 
consist of carbonate of lime, or common lime stone. 

'I had almost forgotten to state, that near the forks of the 
cave are two specimens of painting, probably of Indian origin. 
The one appears to be a savage, with something like a bow in 
his hand, and furnishes the hint, that it was done when that 
instrument of death was in use. The other is so much defaced, 
that it is impossible to say what it was intended to represent. 

'Benjamin Adams.' 

Roads, Canals, Improvements, &c. The same provisions are 
made here, as in most of the other western states for the improve- 
ment of roads and the making of bridges. In the summer and 
autumn, the passing in this state is tolerable, from the circum- 
stance of the levelncss of the lands. Few of the roads are much 
wrought, or kept in good repair. There are ferries on all the 
great waters of passing. The roads, during the winter and spring, 
are excessively deep and heavy. The national road will pass 
through the centre of this state touching at Indianapolis. None 
of the western states afford greater facilities for canals. We 
have seen, that great numbers of ponds and lakes here connect 
both with the waters of the Mississippi and the lakes; and afford 
the spectacle of canals, commenced by nature. A canal, beside 
that mentioned, as having been commenced at Jeffersonville, 
has been proposed to connect the waters of the Wabash with 
those of the Miami of the lake, uniting that river with the lakes; 
and 100,000 acres of land have been appropriated by congress 
for that object. 

That spirit of regard for schools, religious societies and insti- 
tutions, connected with them, which has so honorably distin- 
guished the commencing institutions of Ohio, has displayed itself 
also in this state. There are districts, no doubt, where people 
have but just made beginnings; and where they are more anxious 
about carrying on the first operations of making a new establish- 
ment, than about educating their children. But it ought to be 
recorded to the honor of the people in this state, that among the 
first public works in an incipient village, is a school house, and 
among the first associations, that for establishing a school. 
Schools are of course established in all the considerable towns and 
villages in the state. In many of the compact villages, there is 



Timothy Flint. 461 

a reading room, and a social library. — The spirit of enquiry, 
resulting from our free institutions, is pervading the country, 
and a thirst for all kinds of information is universal. Highei 
schools, as academies and colleges, are in operation or contem- 
plation. This state will soon take a high place among her sister 
states, in point of population. It is hoped and believed, that her 
advance in intellectual improvement, and in the social and 
religious institutions will be in corresponding proportion. The 
only endowed college, with which we are acquainted, is fixed at 
Vincennes. 

Constitution and Government. This state was admitted into 
the Union in 1816. The constitution does not differ essentially 
from that of the other western states. — Where it does differ, it 
is in having a more popular form, than the rest. The governor is 
elected for three years; and is eligible six years out of nine. The 
judiciary is composed of a supreme and circuit courts. 

The judges of the supreme court are appointed by the governor, 
and have appellate jurisdiction. The circuit courts are to be 
held by one judge and two associates — the former to be appointed 
by the legislature, and the latter by the people; all to be held for 
the term of seven years. All free white males, of twenty-one years 
and upwards, that are citizens of the United States, are admitted 
to the elective franchise. 

History. All the striking historical events, that relate to the 
country, which is now the state of Indiana, have either been 
related in the general history of the Mississippi valley, or remain 
to be more properly related under the history of Ohio, in which 
country, under the name of the North Western Territory, it was 
originally included. — It has been the scene of a number of bloody 
contests at different periods. The country on the Wabash was 
early visited by French traders, or hunters from Canada. The 
settlement of Vincennes, dates back as far as 1702. The first 
settlement was composed of soldiers of Louis XIV. They were, 
for more than an age, almost separated from the rest of man- 
kind; and had, in many respects, assimilated with the savages, 
with whom they intermarried. In the time of the American 
revolution, they manifested a disposition so unequivocally favor- 
able to it, that the general government ceded to them a tract of 
land about Vincennes, at the close of that war. — The sparse 
population in this then wilderness, suffered severely from the 
savages, until the peace, which was restored by the treaty at 
Greenville. The Indians still owned the greater portion of the 



462 Early Travels in Indiana. 

territorial surface. In the year 1811, in consequence of their 
depredations and murders, a military force was sent against them; 
and they were defeated, and compelled to sue for peace. The 
bloody battle of Tippicanoe has already been related. Since the 
peace they have been quiet, and have ceded the greater part of 
their lands to the United States. In 1801, Indiana was erected 
into a territorial government. During the late war the tide of 
immigration was almost completely arrested. Many of the set- 
tlements were broken up by the savages. Immediately on the 
termination of that war, the tide set strongly again, through 
Ohio, to this state; and population poured in upon the woods and 
prairies. It has been filling up with almost unexampled rapidity, 
since that time. It suffered severely along with the other western 
states by the change of times, that occurred after the close of the 
war. The same foolish, or iniquitous system of spurious banks, 
or relief laws, was adopted here as in the states farther west; and 
with the same results. The bank of New Lexington was a notori- 
ous scheme of iniquity; and was one of the first bubbles, that 
burst in this young community. Though the people did not 
immediately take warning, they were among the first, that dis- 
carded all the rediculous temporizing expedients of relief, and 
restored a sound circulation. 

The progress of the state in population and prosperity, some 
years past, has been uniform. It will now, probably, have 250,000 
inhabitants; and in 1830, 300,000. If we could present a scenic 
map of this state, exhibiting its present condition, it would 
present us a grand and very interesting landscape of deep forests, 
wide and flowering prairies, thousands of log cabins, and in the 
villages, brick houses rising beside them. We should see chasms 
cut out of the forests in all directions. We should see thousands 
of dead trees surrounding the incipient establishments. — On the 
edges of the prairies, we should see cabins, or houses, sending up 
their smokes. We should see vast droves of cattle, ruminating 
in the vicinity of these establishments, in the shade. There 
would be a singular melange of nature and art; and to give inter- 
est to the scene, the bark hovels of the Indians, in many places, 
would remain intermixed with the habitations of the whites. 
But the most pleasing part of the picture would be to see inde- 
pendent and respectable yeomen presiding over these great 
changes. The young children would be seen playing about the 
rustic establishments; full fed and happy, sure presages of the 
numbers, healthfulness and independence of the coming generation. 



From The Christian Traveler, by Isaac Reed [1828], pp. 
70-94, 96-97, 120-22, 131-34, 137-41, 144-49, 177- 
84,211-15,216-30. 

Reed, Isaac. 

It is a pleasure to turn from the more or less critical accounts given by 
foreigners who travelled in our midst, to the narrative of one who was truly 
American in birth and sympathy. No traveller had such an opportunity to 
study the real conditions that existed along the frontier as did the missionary 
ministers. In 1816 the Presbyterian Societies of New England sent a number 
of Missionaries to Indiana. The most noted of these were Isaac Reed and 
William W. Martin. Like the Methodist circuit riders, they travelled all 
over the state. They therefore were in a position to give a valuable detailed 
survey of the religious and social conditions then existing. The following 
observations are from the pen of Mr. Reed. 

LETTER XIX. 

Madison, Jefferson Co., Indiana, July 29, 1818. 

My dear C , 

My last was from the Rev. Mr. Cleland's, of Mercer, Ken- 
tucky, where I remained over Sabbath, and on the 22d inst. in 
company with Mr. C. started for this place. We stopped at 
noon, at a decent cabin, and found they had a bible. The woman 
said she was a great sinner, and was very attentive to what we 
said to her. She seemed willing to learn, but very rarely hears 
preaching. We put up at night, with a religious family on the 
north edge of Shelby Co. Leaving it early the next morning, 
we breakfasted near Newcastle, and soon after passed through 
the town. This is the seat of justice of Henry Co. It is built on 
the southern declivity of a hill, contains a population of about 
800, and is surrounded by a fertile and populous country. It is 
wholly destitute of religious society. I thought this field needs 
culture, and said to my companion, that it ought to receive 
religious attention, and would be, I thought, a favourable mis- 
sionary station. In these parts thought I, and wrote it in my 
journal, "There remains yet very much land to be possessed." 
We made little stop the rest of the day, being anxious to reach 
this that night; and just at sun-set we came down to the Ohio 
river, which is here half a mile wide. Crossing over, we came 
into Madison, and put up with Mr. D. M'Clure. In my travels 



464 Early Travels in Indiana. 

in Kentucky, which have included about 700 miles, I have learned 
much of its religious state. This is truly low, though it is thought 
better than a few years since. There are many which wear the 
Baptist's name, but they have neither the knowledge, order, nor 
the apparent piety of the Baptists in the northern states. The 
Methodists are not very numerous, and the Presbyterian cause 
and interest is low. There are some precious people, whom I 
highly respect: they are walking in the ordinances of God, and 
sighing over the abominations of the land, in which their lot is 
cast. And there are some faithful ministers, who are zealous 
for the cause of the Redeemer. But they are so few, — they are 
so very few, — more than 30 counties, containing an immense 
population, are without a single Presbyterian minister. Several 
of these counties have in them little churches, but they have no 
pastors. Poor souls, how I pity them. Since I came into the 
state, most of my time has been spent with such. I hope some 
good has arisen, and will arise from it. 

I am now, for the first time, on the north side of the Ohio. 
This town lies on its bank. We are come here to preach the 
glorious Gospel, and Mr. C. is to administer the Sacrament. 
More at a future time. Your's, &c. 



LETTER XX 

New-Albany, September 5, 1818. 
My dear C , 

In Madison and the country about it, I spent six weeks. 
Some account of this time, and my labours in it, I am now about 
to give my friend. My former letter closed with our arrival in 
Madison, and just at the eve of a sacramental occasion. On that 
occasion the meeting lasted four days. — I preached three times, 

and Mr. C three. Saturday, it rained profusely; but 

Sabbath the weather was good, and the attendance very numer- 
ous. The attention seemed also fixed and solemn. 

During the sacrament, many were in tears. There were five 
tables, and about 80 communicants. Several addresses at the 
table were long and affecting. I preached at evening, and Mr. 
C gave an exhortation. It was a very superior one; show- 
ing the excellence of Christianity from its effects. He was ani- 
mated and very pathetic. He is a devout man, and has a great 
gift in extemporary speaking. The next morning was very 
rainy, but the people convened at 10 o'clock, and Mr. C 



Isaac Reed. 465 

preached an able and instructive discourse, and the meeting was 
closed. He set out for home t^ie same day, and I came six miles 
down the river with W. D. Esq., where, much fatigued, I remained 
through the next day. 

July 29th. — I was this morning at Mr. G. L.'s; who lives on 
high ground, beautifully overlooking the Ohio. He is an intelli- 
gent and pious man of the Associate Reformed Church. After 
dinner, I started for Graham's Fork, a settlement in Jennings 
county. The country through which I passed, is new; but the 
log houses are scattered along near the road. The distance is 
13 miles, and I reached there just before sun-set. Put up with 
Mr. S. Graham, where I am to preach to-morrow. He seems a 
good man, and was with his wife at the late sacrament inMadi- 
son. They have a little church collected here of 17 members. 
Oh! that their number may soon be increased, and this wilder- 
ness blossom as the rose, and become vocal with the praises of 
God. Oh! that the Rose of Sharon may be known and prized 
by these new settlers of the western wilds. 

July 30th. — The weather was very showery, but a consider- 
able number of people came to meeting, to whom I preached for 
about an hour, from the text, "Fear not, little flock, for it is your 
Father's good pleasure to give you the kingdom." They were 
very attentive, and it looked as though the fields were white, 
ready to the harvest. O Lord, send forth labourers into thy 
harvest! 

July 31st. — Preached at 9 o'clock this morning, in the same 
place, and to nearly the same congregation as on yesterday. 
Their attention was silent and good. It was a pleasure to preach 
to them, they seemed so highly to prize it. I left them on my 
return at 11 o'clock. The late rains had raised the rivers, and 
the waters were very high. Fording was somewhat difficult, but 
I succeeded in crossing, and returned to the neighbourhood of 
W. D. Esq., near the Ohio. 

Sabbath, Aug. 2d. — I preached for the first time in the open 
woods. The collection of people was considerable, much greater 
than could get into the school house, — meeting house they have 
none. I felt considerable freedom in preaching from the text, 
"They that be whole need not a physician; but they that are sick." 
Near evening I held a society, or conference meeting at Mr. D.'s, 
and it was very well attended. 

Aug. 5th. — I rode into Madison, and spent the afternoon with 

T— 30 



466 Early Travels in Indiana. 

some religious people there, and went home at night with J 
Ritchie, Esq., an elder in the church, living out of town. 

Aug. 6th. — Went to Mr. C.'s, another elder in the church, who 
is a very sedate and good man. He was raised in Rockbridge, 
Virginia, and he told me much concerning a revival of religion in 
that county in the days and ministry of old Parson Graham. The 
Rev. Dr. Alexander of Princeton, was one of the converts. 

Sabbath, Aug. 9th. — Preached again in Madison. The day 
was warm and pleasant, but the place of preaching bad. It was 
a little, old log court-house. In the morning it was crowded, and 
numbers were out of the doors; but in the afternoon, there were 
not so many. 

Aug. 13th. — I felt happy to-day in meeting at W. Dunn's, 
Esq., the Rev. O. Fowler, Missionary from Connecticut. We 
had been acquainted there when students of divinity; and were 
licensed by the same association. It was now very pleasant to 
meet him in these new settlements. At 5 P.M., we attended 
meeting together, and found a school-house filled with people, 
waiting to hear. I preached, and he prayed after sermon. In 
prayer, he was able, devout, and solemn. The people gave very 
good attention, and he is to preach to them the next Sabbath; 
whilst I make another trip to Graham's Fork. We remained 
together over night. Oh! that many like him may be sent into 
the harvest in these parts. 

Aug. 14th.— I left brother F , and rode to G.F.K.: 

stopped by the way at Mr. M'C.'s, and conversed awhile with 
the family upon religion, and appointed to preach a lecture there 
as I return on Monday. They had just buried a little son, and 
the mother seemed serious. 

Aug. 15th. — Preached at Mr. S. Graham's, at 2 P.M., and 
after preaching, rode to Mr. Miller's, five miles up the fork, 
where I held a conference in the evening with his family and a 
few neighbours. 

Sabbath, Aug. 16th. — There is no house in the neighbourhood 
large enough to hold the people, which it was expected, would 
be at preaching today. They had, therefore, some days before, 
fixed a stand, and made seats in the woods. The place was well 
chosen, and the arrangement discovered good taste. Time for 
preaching came, and I went forth into the woods, and preached 
two sermons to a considerable congregation, who were very still 
and attentive. The blue arch of heaven was my canopy, and 
the forest trees were thick on either hand. I was strengthened 



Isaac Reed. 467 

and encouraged, and in the afternoon spoke more easily than in 
the morning. Here again, let me say, "Hitherto the Lord hath 
helped me." I desire to rejoice that ever I came over into this 
State, and that I came out to see this poor people, who so much 
loved the preached gospel, but who have had so little, since they 
settled here. I am the second Presbyterian minister, who has 
visited them; but Mr. F. is to follow me in two weeks. 

Monday morning, took an affectionate leave of these simple- 
hearted people, where a number of young persons are seriously 
impressed. May the Lord bring them to know Him, and give 
them peace in believing. Rode in the rain, and at 11 o'clock 

preached at Mr. M'C- 's. Next day, with brother Fowler, 

rode to Madison, and attended the formation of the Madison 
Bible Society. In this meeting, we both addressed the people. 
Eighty four members signed the constitution, and $96 were paid 
into the hand of the treasurer. The occasion was, to most of 
the people, altogether new; they were attentive, and seemed to 
take a deep interest in the subject; and when they retired from 
the meeting, a smile lighted up their countenance, and bespoke 
good will to fill the breast. The cause is the Lord's. — It is to 
diffuse more widely his own book, and he seemed to smile on the 
efforts of his people. 

Sabbath, Aug. 23. — A beautiful day; I preached again two 
sermons in the old log court-house; the attention of the people 
seemed very good. The sermon in the afternoon was accommo- 
dated to encourage the people to build a meeting-house, for which 
.they are making an effort. The text was Neh. ii, 20: "The 
God of heaven he will prosper us, therefore, we his servants will 
arise and build." 

Aug. 29th. — I have been this week 18 miles into the country, 
north east of M. and preached two sermons, and visited a few 
scattered Presbyterian families, and this afternoon met with a 
few ladies and assisted them to form a religious Tract Society; 
they have had opposition, but the thing is accomplished; it is a 
good work, and though few, they are engaged about it. May the 
Lord bless and prosper them! 

Aug. 30th. — This day being Sabbath, I preached again two 
sermons in Madison. The congregation was small. 

Sept. 1st. — Preached a lecture in the school-house, near W. 
Dunn's, Esq. where the attendance and attention were very good. 

Sept. 3d. — Left this settlement and rode 24 miles, through a 
thinly settled country to Charlestown, the seat of justice of Clark 



468 Early Travels in Indiana. 

county. Here I called on the Rev. Mr. Todd, and tarried with 
him over night. Charlestown is a considerable place, and seems 
fast improving. 

Sept. 4th. — Left Mr. Todd's this morning and went to Jeffer- 
sonville, 13 miles; this is on the bank of the Ohio, opposite the 
mouth of Bear-Grass creek. I found there Mr. Webster, a col- 
lege acquaintance, who was an officer in the late war; he was in 
the battle of Bridgewater, near the falls of Niagara, where he 
was wounded, and left for dead on the field of battle. He was 
shot through the right cheek, and the ball lodged in the back 
part of the neck; being taken up after the battle, it was extracted, 
and he recovered; after this he read law, and has been some time 
in practice. In the afternoon I rode to New Albany, four miles 
further down the river. To this place I had a letter of introduc- 
tion, and put up with Mr. J. Scribner, an elder in thePresbyterian 
church. 

LETTER XXI 

New Albany, Ind., Oct. 4th, 1818. 



My dear C , 

I have been steadily in this place, visiting the people, preach- 
ing, and attending to ministerial duties near five weeks. I have 
preached twice every Sabbath, till the present, when the Rev. 
Mr. Fowler preached in the morning, and administered the sacra- 
ment of the Lord's Supper. I have also attended one evening 
prayer-meeting each week. I have also attended several funerals. 
The last has been the most sickly month in the year; many have, 
been ill, and six or seven have died since I came here. 

This is a new place, having been laid out into town lots but 
five years. At that time it was thickly covered with heavy tim- 
ber. It is now rude in appearance, and has few good houses, but 
is fast improving, and contains 700 inhabitants; its situation is 
eligible, being high above the river, and lying along its bank. 
The surrounding country is of a rich soil, but thinly settled, and 
little improved. The town is two miles below the Falls of the 
Ohio; its religious character is low, but gaining. There are two 
small societies, a Presbyterian and a Methodist. In the Presby- 
terian the communicants are 13. In looking over my journal, I 
find the following, written a few days after I first came into the 
town. "I am here in this new country. I have come to this 
town; why it is I know not; but Divine Providence has so ordered 
it. that I may be submissive! heartily inclined to do my duty 



Isaac Reed. 469 

whilst I stay. And that I may daily feel myself the Lord's 
servant, and be about my master's business! This evening we 
begin to hold the monthly concert of prayer in this place. O 
may my heart be engaged, and it be a good time to the Lord's 
people here! It is a sweet and refreshing consideration, to think 
how many others, in various parts of the world, are, at the same 
time, engaged in the same way. Thy kingdom come, Lord! 
and may the whole earth be filled with thy glory. Amen." 

I have been in this place as long as I intended, at my first 
coming, and am now ready to depart on the morrow, having to 
meet the Presbytery of Transylvania, in Mercer, Ky. next 
Wednesday. Your's, &c. 

LETTER XXII. 

New Albany, Nov. 5th, 1818. 



Mr Dear C— , 

After several weeks absence, and travelling through a con- 
siderable part of Kentucky, I am again at this place, and at the 
request of the people, have concluded to settle here, at least for 
the present; they need help, and I wish to help them. But I 
will look back awhile, and give some account of my late tour. 

October 5th.- — It was late this morning before I got away from 
New Albany, and I was detained an hour at the ferry; before I 
set out, the trustees put in my hand $30, as a reward for my serv- 
ices. No people in this western country have treated me so gen- 
erously. Passing through Louisville, and taking the Frankfort 
road, I put up at an inn, eight miles short of Shelbyville. Here 
I found a liberally educated and pious young man of Fairfield, 
Conn, on his way home, after spending ten months in this state, 
teaching in a private family. 

Oct. 6th. — Travelled in company with the young man above 
mentioned till afternoon, when our roads parted. At night I 
reached within six miles of the place of the meeting of the Pres- 
bytery. 

Oct. 7th. — Met the Presbytery at its opening in New Provi- 
dence meeting-house. The Rev. J. Howe, of Greene co. preached 
the sermon, after which Presbytery constituted, and adjourned 
to meet to-morrow. I lodged with the Rev. Thomas Clelland, 
where I had the company of Messrs. Howe and Nelson. 

Oct. 8th. — Presbytery took me under their care, and con- 
cluded to grant me an examination, and if approved, to ordain 
me next Saturday. The examination commenced this P.M. 



470 Early Travels in Indiana. 

October 9th. — The examination continued, and I preached my 
trial sermon; it was on the docrine of justification. The examina- 
tion is sustained, and public notice given of ordination to-morrow. 

Oct. 10th. — My feelings were pleasant, this morning, as I 
rose from bed, and engaged in morning duties. I was solemn 
while thinking of what a few hours would bring me to pass through : 
— the day was warm and the weather fair: — it was a day for which 
I had long wished, — to which my aims and my hopes had long 
directed: for it was the day when, by the laying on of the hands 
of the Presbytery, I was to be fully invested with ministerial 
office and authority. The morning was now come, and I rejoiced 
with thanksgiving: — the sermon was preached by the Rev. J. B. 
Lapsley, from 2 Cor. x. 4, — "For the weapons of our warfare are 
not carnal, but mighty through God, to the pulling down of 
strong holds." It was a very able sermon; and in the prayer 
before it, he was both able and fervent. The ordination prayer 
was offered by the Rev. J. Howe, presiding bishop; and the right 
hand of fellowship given, first by him, and then by each of the 
ministers: — He also gave the charge; it was scriptural and very 
solemn: — solemn, indeed, was the whole of the transaction, though 
very weak in health, I was greatly supported in spirit, and my 
mind kept even through the whole. This was the most momen- 
tous day of my life. And now, Lord, I am thine, for ever thine, 
nor would my purpose move: — so I thought while the ordination 
lasted: — so I think whilst I record it. 

Oct. 11th. — This is a sacramental Sabbath in this place. The 
congregation was very large; the preaching excellent; and the 
whole service especially solemn: many were in tears: a goodly 
number of young people were, I trust, truly convicted. Three 
young men, brothers, were admitted; one married man and a 
young woman were baptized. 

Oct. 13th. — I preached, and Mr. Cleland, immediately after 
me, when the meeting closed. On the 13th, we set out. for the 
Synod at Lexington: on our way, the conversation turned on a 
ministerial facility, of introducing and keeping up religious con- 
versation in company, and on common occasions, as means of 
doing good. He said, there are three ways, one of which he 
embraced, according to the time, disposition of persons, or other 
circumstances; always aiming at the benefit of the person or per- 
sons present. One way is, direct and personal address, question- 
ing, exhorting, and reasoning; the next is, whatever be the sub- 
ject introduced, so to shape the conversation as to make it lead 



Isaac Reed. 471 

into religion; and then it may be most personal and serious, with- 
out difficulty, and generally without offence. The third way is, 
to converse directly with one person, with a view and aim to 
interest, impress, and instruct another person present, who takes 
no other part than to listen to it. He is judged by many to have 
a happy gift this way, and has been a very popular and successful 
minister. To this, I might add my own conviction, formed on 
experience, of the special benefit of the two latter, both in making 
the desired impression, and securing the good will of the person, 
whose benefit is sought. He preached at night in the house 
where we stayed. 

Oct. 14th. — The Synod met in Lexington, and the Rev. Mr. 
Cunningham preached the opening sermon; when Synod con- 
stituted, and adjourned to meet next day. Its sessions continued 
from day to da}^ and closed on the 19th; there was preaching 
every evening, and a missionary sermon on Saturday; after which, 
a free conversation was held on the state of religion within the 
bounds of the Synod. In this it appeared that there have been 
special revivals of religion in some congregations. In Harrison 
county, two hundred communicants have been added to the 
church, the last year; between ninety and one hundred in Paris; 
one hundred and thirty in Concord; forty four in New-Provi- 
dence in Harodsburgh. At this session, Synod resolved to estab- 
lish, on Christian principles, a new college, to be called the col- 
lege of Kentucky, and located at Danville. 

Oct. 20th. — Left Lexington, and travelled in company with 
Messrs. J. Lyle and N. H. Hall, to the Rev. Mr. Nelson's, near 
Danville; and next day to Springfield. 

Oct. 22d. — Visited again my much-esteemed friend Mrs. Reed, 
where I spent the day in a very cheerful and pleasant manner. 
Next day rode to Lebanon, to attend a sacrament in Hardin's 
creek congregation: the meeting commenced the day before, and 
I preached to-day. 

Oct. 24th. — This day, being Sabbath, the congregation was too 
large for the meeting-house, and they retired to a grove, where 
the Rev. Mr. Lyle preached, and the sacrament was adminis- 
tered: the attention seemed solemn; five new members were 
added: — I preached again this evening; next day Mr. Cleland 
preached, and the meeting was closed. I returned the same even- 
ing to Springfield, and left there the next day; from this, my 
journey was very pleasant through Nelson and Jefferson counties, 
Kentucky, to this town, which I reached the evening of the 29th 



472 Early Travels in Indiana. 

of October. I was expected by the people, who had raised a 
salary for a year, by subscription, and sent after me to Lexington, 
requesting my immediate return, and settlement with them: — 
to this I have consented ; viewing it as the direction of Providence, 
for my usefulness in the ministry. Here I preached last Sabbath, 
to a considerable congregation of attentive hearers, and here I 
expect to reside, at least for a season; using my endeavours to 
serve my generation, by the will of God, in the ministry of the 
Gospel. That I may be enabled to do this, and rightly divide 
the word of truth to this people, I devoutly implore the influence 
and guidance oi" the Holy Spirit. may the Lord bless this little 
church, and increase it; — bless this town and reform it; — refor- 
mation is greatly needed. 

Thus, my early and much-esteemed friend, have I been led 
on from step to step, and from place to place, by Divine Provi- 
dence. Surely he hath led in a way, which I knew not; and he 
hath guided me with his eye; — he hath preserved me from dan- 
gers seen and unseen; — he hath kept me from death; and, in the 
midst of sickness, hath given me to speak a word to comfort the 
distressed: — he hath led me to a people, whom I knew not; and 
given me favour in their sight; — wherefore, let my heart praise 
him; — let my pen honour him; — let me take the cup of salvation, 
and call on the name of the Lord ; — the Lord is my helper and my 
shield;— let me not fear while my trust is in him; neither in the 
wilderness nor "in the city full;" — but may it be my constant aim 
to serve, and thus to glorify him, in the Gospel of Jesus Christ, 
to which, by his Spirit and Providence, he has called me. And 
you, my friend, you know of his mercies, and will help me to 
praise him. And let me request that I may even share in your 
prayers, and that the people of these western regions, who are 
so destitute of the regular preaching of the Gospel, may also be 
often in your mind, when you look to the mercy-seat. 

May the peace of God fill your heart, — may you be the 
honoured instrument of winning souls to the blessed Saviour, — 
and finally, with all the redeemed, that blood-washed throng, 

rest in his holy kingdom; is the ardent prayer of, dear C , 

your early, your constant, and your affectionate friend. Farewell. 

Isaac Reed. 



Isaac Reed. 473 

PART II. 



RESIDENCE AND LABOURS AT NEW-ALBANY. 

At New-Albany I became located in October, 1818. The 
engagement was for one year. The salary was $500. As a place, 
its morals were low; its general society was rude, and much of it 
profane. There were some pious persons, but their number was 
small, and even these were not well known to each other, nor 
united. There was a small Presbyterian church of fifteen mem- 
bers, and a small Methodist society. The inhabitants were from 
various parts of the older settled country: — some were from Con- 
necticut — more from New-Jersey, some from Massachusetts, 
some from Pennsylvania, numbers from Kentucky, and some 
from Ireland. The place itself was about five years old, but its 
inhabitants had been very few till within two years: it had now 
a *steam saw-mill, several stores, mechanics' shops, &c, and a 
boat yard for the building of steam-boats. Over most of the 
town-plot, lay thickly, the large trunks of trees which had been 
felled, but were not removed. This plot is upon the bottom lands 
of the Ohio river, a mile and a half below the falls. The forest 
trees had been thick and large, and many of the poplars of immense 
size. There was a little frame covered in for a Methodist meet- 
ing-house; — the Presbyterians had none; — and the only school- 
house was a miserable log one. In this state of things my year 
commenced with that people. I undertook with this Presby- 
terian society with an intent to remain with them, if the Lord 
should so direct, and rear the society from its weak and low condi- 
tion, till it should become a numerous, respectable, and strong 
society. And in this review after eight years of absence, I am 
rather surprised that I succeeded so well, and did so much, than 
that I did not succeed better and -do more. It was a strained 
effort on the part of the society, which was made to obtain me. 
One man subscribed $75, another $60, another $30. The church 
had been but lately formed, and had three elders, neither of them 
experienced respecting their office. Many of the people were 
poor: numbers came there with some relics of better condition, to 
retrieve their fortunes. The place had a sickly character. Num- 
bers were single men just setting out in life; — some as merchants, 
others as mechanics. The buildings were mostly crude; either 
logs or frames just capable of being occupied by families. The 



474 Early Travels in Indiana. 

families were too numerous for the buildings, and were therefore 
cramped for room. With this people, thus circumstanced, I 
commenced single handed. There was not an installed minister 
of the Presbyterian church in the state; and, by God's blessing, 
I kept the ground, defended and fortified the post, and won some 
from without, to come into the garrison. This year was one of the 
most unremitted, intense and painful watchfulness of any year 
of my life. I often felt the weight and pressure of my situation. 
My hope was in God, and he sustained me. I set myself to 
instruct the church — to win the attention of my hearers, and to 
become acquainted with the people. It was not long before the 
grocery shops, which were kept open on the Sabbath when I came 
here, were closed upon that holy day. A respectable number 
attended meeting on the Sabbath. The meetings were held under 
great inconveniences: sometimes in the old school-house, and 
sometimes in private houses. The church members became gradu- 
ally better known to each other and more united. The church 
also increased slowly, till September, 1819: then a number *of 
young people became deeply and anxiously impressed with a 
concern for their salvation: this issued in the hopeful conversion 
of several in a short time. A few weeks afterwards nine were 
added to the church in one day. This may seem small in other 
places, but it was great here. Some others were added to the 
church from time to time till the number came to be thirty-five 
before my leaving it. My year of contract was now out, and the 
society was incompetent to renew the salary. The largest sub- 
scriber was dead, and his estates deeply involved with debts. 
The times seemed changing for the worse. Many of the society 
were considerably embarrased with debts. My heart was with 
the people. I had thought, this is my home, and here will I 
build my house. I delayed with them till December; but found 
it necessary at that time to remove. It was trying to quit this 
ground; to leave my plans of improvement; to leave my flock — 
numbers of which were young and tender lambs, just beginning 
to be reckoned of the flock of Christ: — but it seemed necessary, 
and I felt that I must submit. In this year a meeting house was 
built by my society. A Sabbath school society was formed in 
the place, and a school of sixty scholars gathered and instructed. 
This was the first Sabbath school society ever formed in the State. 
The same year the Methodist society at New-Albany was 
increased; and just before the close of the year, a Baptist society 
was commenced. 



Isaac Reed. • 475 

My travels this year were not extensive. In the fall of 1818, 
I made a tour to Frankfort, Kentucky, and in my return was 
well nigh being drowned in attempting to ford a small river, which 
had been suddenly raised by a great rain the preceding night. 
It was immensly rapid. After breaking the girth of my saddle, 
and being carried a little below the ford, I" succeeded in getting 
out on the same side I went in. I then turned back and took 
another road. Another tour was to attend a meeting of the 
Louisville Presbytery, held at Livonia, in the interior of the 
settled parts of Indiana. The others were chiefly of a mission- 
ary character. Up to this time I had been a volunteer for the 
Gospel in the Western states. I now began to be in the commis- 
sion of the Missionary Society of Connecticut. Their first com- 
mission was sent me this year. It was issued in January 1819, 
and I received it in February of the same year. But I did noth- 
ing under it till May, when I spent eight days in the two next 
counties down the Ohio river from New-Albany. In this tour 
travelled 95 miles, visited and spent the Sabbath with a little 
chinch at Corydon, county seat of Harrison county, and then the 
place for the residence of the Governor, and the holding the 
sessions of the State Legislature. This church was gathered the 
preceding winter by the Rev. John F. Crow, and consisted of 
seven members. From Corydon, I went down the Ohio river to 
Leavensworth, and Fredonia, two little towns of Crawford county, 
just commencing, and lying upon the Ohio river. Neither of 
these had been visited by any Presbyterian minister before. In 
this tour I preached seven times — held one meeting of the Cory- 
don church session, and received one new member. 

In June, I made a tour to some medicinal springs in Mercer 
county, Kentucky; and was absent from New-Albany between 
three and four weeks. In this tour I assisted at two sacramental 
meetings. The first was held in a grove near Springfield, in 
Washington county, Kentucky. The attendance was great, and 
the attention appeared favourable. In this county are two 
Presbyterian churches supplied by one minister. A large part 
of the population are Roman Catholics. The other was held in 
a beautiful little grove near a meeting house, about two miles 
from Harodsburg. The attendance was great. The ministers 
were the Rev. Thomas Clelland, the pastor, and the Rev. J. F. 
Crow, of Shelby county. The state of feeling seemed to be lively. 
A few persons made a Christian profession. About twenty have 



476 Early Travels in Indiana. 

done this in the three places which this pastor tends upon, since 
last October. 

From the springs in Mercer, I went to Lancaster, in Garrard 
county, and spent the next Sabbath; and returned the following 
week to New-Albany, by way of Frankfort, Shelbyville, and 
Louisville, having travelled about 240 miles. 

At an earlier time the same season, I assisted at a sacramental 
meeting of three days with the Rev. John F. Crow, at a place 
called Fox-Run, near Shelbyville, in Shelby county. Here also 
the Sabbath meeting was held in a grove. The only reason why 
these meetings were held in groves, was because the meeting 
houses were not competent to contain the people. This is very 
generally the case at sacramental meetings in these parts. 

In August I attended ,a second meeting of the Louisville 
Presbytery. This was held at New-Lexington, Indiana. There 
I fulfilled an appointment which had been assigned to me at the 
spring session. This was to preach a sermon at the installation 
of the Rev. John M. Dickey, now settling at this place, in connec- 
tion with another eight or nine miles distant. This was the first 
Presbyterial settlement of a minister in the State. The installa- 
tion was on Saturday, and the sacrament of the Lord's Supper 
followed the next day. Meeting on both days, and Monday also, 
was held in the wood, under the shade of forest trees. 

From this place I went on to Madison, about 16 miles further 
up the Ohio river. There I greeted again the friends which I 
had made in my labours the preceding year. I also did the same 
in the settlement of Dunn and Logan, 7 miles below. These 
people had showed me some acts of religious friendship. They 
were my first acquaintance in Indiana. Their manners were 
plain and easy, Christian and friendly; and they were peculiarly 
dear to me. This is the same place which now embraces the 
society of my friend, the Rev. J. F. Crow: and they have now a 
commodious stone meeting house. At that time they were a 
part of the church at Madison, and had no meeting-house. 

On my way from New-Lexington, a young man was my travel- 
ling companion, who lived near Madison. He was now a pro- 
fessor of religion, and in the communion of the Madison church. 
His views were now turned towards qualifications for the gospel 
ministry. He informed me that his attention had been greatly 
excited when hearing me preach in that settlement, the preceding 
year. The first time I ever preached in the woods, he heard me; 
and was greatly impressed with the text, and the whole sermon. 



Isaac Reed. 47.7 

The text was Matt. ix. 12 — They that be whole need not a physician, 
but they that are sick. That young man is now, 1827, a gospel 
minister in Indiana. At Madison I met with the Rev. Thomas 
C. Searle. He had just arrived there under the patronage of the 
Missionary Society of young men in New- York city. The next 
year he became settled as pastor, and died there, in the autumn 
of 1821. I returned by way of Charlestown, where I preached at 
night during the term of the circuit court. 

In September, I went into the interior of the State: travelled 
through several counties, and preached in different places, and 
made an arrangement to distribute bibles in some. These bibles 
were the remains of a society, which has been formed at Jeffer- 
sonville by the agency of the Rev. Samuel J. Mills and the Rev. 
Daniel Smith, while what is now the State of Indiana, was a 
territory; and I think it was while Col. Posey was Governor. In 
the new and frontier counties of Monroe and Owen, I spent 
nearly two weeks. In both these counties I found some Pres- 
byterian families. In Monroe county, a church was gathered 
and constituted at Bloomington, the county seat. This was the 
first church formed by my ministry. From this I returned by 
way of Livonia, and saw the Rev. Wm. W. Martin, who had 
located there. 

A slow fever had commenced upon me in this tour, and it 
rose daily; but when I had reached New- Albany, by medicine 
and a blessing, it was speedily removed. The fall Session of the 
Louisville Presbytery followed soon. This was held at Shelby- 
ville in Kentucky: and the Synod soon after at Danville. These 
were both attended in their time and place: and the attendance 
of the latter, led to the formation of a new relation of life. There 
I first saw the companion of my future life. She was a widow's 
daughter, then resident at that place; but had lately come there. 
Her family were of the second Presbyterian church in the city of 
Philadelphia. But having suffered from misfortunes, they had 
removed to Kentucky. Here, under the name of their mother, 
the three daughters taught a female boarding school. 

When the Synod had closed its sessions, I returned by way of 
Frankfort and Shelby ville; and was immediately most assiduously 
employed in my little society till the 20th of December, when I 
took my final leave of that society as its minister. 

This is a year to be remembered in the history of my life. It 
was a year on which much depended. God himself was my 
teacher. I held a station in which much was needed, and from 



478 Early Travels in Indiana. 

which much was expected: — it. was a station, for which the activ- 
ity of youth and the wisdom of long experience were requisite. 
My health was weak, but my mind was active, and my efforts 
were not intermitted, and they were in many things successful. 
In this year I also published a piece in the Weekly Recorder, a 
religious paper of the quarto form, edited by the Rev. John 
Andrews, at Chillicothe, respecting Indiana, under the title, 
"The budding of the Wilderness, or a Gospel light dawning in 
Indiana." 



Some Extracts from, Correspondents in this year, addressed to the 
Rev. Isaac Reed. 

The first was from the Post Master at New-Albany, and sent 
to the writer of this narrative, when at Lexington, Kentucky, 
attending Synod. 

New-Albany, Oct. 10th, 1818. 
Dear Sir, 

With pleasure I inform you, that we have succeeded with 
our subscription so far, as to enable us to engage with you, and 
ensure you five hundred dollars a year for the present, and will 
thank you to make arrangements accordingly, and come as soon 
as convenient. 

I am respectfully, your friend and brother, 

Joel Scribner. 

A third extract is taken from a letter of the Rev. Orin Fowler, 
then a Missionary in Indiana. 

Carlisle, Jan. 12th, 1819. 
My dear Sir, 

I have just returned from a tour up the Wabash, as far as 
Fort Harrison. Your letter is received, and read with pleasure; 
and shall now be answered. That you are in usual health — that 
you have reason to hope you will yet be well at New- Albany; I 
am rejoiced to hear: but that you have unexpected difficulties, 
grieves me. May the Lord, the fountain of knowledge and con- 
solation, give you wisdom, which is profitable to direct; and the 
blessed influences of his Spirit, to comfort you, and make you 
instrumental of great good, in that part of the vineyard, where 
you are called to labour. It appears that God, in his righteous 
providence, has removed from this state of probation, one of 



Isaac Reed. 479 

your parishioners, Mr. Nathaniel Scribner. May this dispensa- 
tion be sanctified to his friends and fellow-citizens, that you may 
all finally have cause to say; 'It was good for me to be afflicted.' 
Since I left you, my health has been, as usual, very good. I 
have preached very often; almost every day; and have found the 
people generally attentive to know the word: though the diffi- 
culties and discouragements of a missionary in this part of the 
State, are much greater than in the eastern and middle parts of 
it. I have been on a tour to Monroe county (Bloomington 
county seat) which was very fatiguing; — have been up the 
Wabash river to Fort Harrison, and preached in nearly every 
neighborhood in these several directions. After three or four 
weeks, the Lord willing, I propose to return to my old field of 
labour, and from thence to my native land. It is my present 
intention to return to the east, upon the old wilderness route 
through Virginia. From you, I hope to obtain some informa- 
tion of importance, relative to this route. That the consola- 
tions of the Holy Spirit may be ever yours, and the blessings of 
heaven attend your labours, is the prayer of your brother, 

O. Fowler. 
Rev. I. Reed. 

I went through Shelby county, and crossed the 
Ohio river at the mouth of Harrod's creek, twelve or thirteen 
miles above Louisville. Left Charlestown a few miles to the 
right, and passed through Salem, Indiana. Thus far I had the 
company of one of the elders in my church. Thence I travelled 
alone. I reached Bloomington Saturday. Rode twenty miles 
without my breakfast, and then found the family where I stopped 
to obtain it, without bread, meat, or flour, — they had potatoes, 
and on these I made a good meal. At Bloomington I spent the 
Sabbath with the little church, which I had formed in the year 
1819, and preached twice. They were still vacant, and but little 
increased. The Lord's Supper had been twice only dispensed 
to them since its constitution. Two men had moved in, who were 
ruling elders in other places, and were chosen such by this church. 
For the election of the second, the church was together when I 
arrived. 

Monday, Nov. 5th. — I went on from Bloomington to Owen 
county. Found, after some difficulty, my way to the residence 
of Mrs. Reed's relations. Most of them were in health, and 
elated at seeing me; but her uncle, who had made the purchase, 
and moved the family there, and who was the head of Mrs. 



480 Early Travels in Indiana. 

Young's family, had been sick with a fever, and was now slowly 
recovering. The rest were cheerful, and seemed in good hopes. 
They seemed in the midst of the woods, and had not a cleared 
field in sight. In this county a little church had been gathered, 
and constituted the year before, by the Rev. Mr. Dickey. They 
held Sabbath meetings about five miles from these our relatives. 
I preached at Mr. Holmes' the day after my arrival, and for this 
church the following Sabbath: and that week, in company with 
my brother-in-law, went through the woods by the forks of the 
Eel river, to the Land Office of Terre Haute, about fifty miles. 
There I entered a half quarter section of land joining upon that 
bought by Mr. Holmes. Returned and preached at Mr. Holmes' 
Wednesday night, from Philippians iv. 19. — "My God shall supply 
all your need, according to his riches in glory, by Christ Jesus." 
A text which was chosen in consequence ci" the situation of the 
family, and their many privations here in this wilderness; and it 
was received like a meal, to go in its strength many days. The 
next day I forded White river and returned to Bloomington, 
twenty miles. 

I was now ninety miles from New-Albany, where I had sent 
an appointment by mail, to be the next Sabbath; and I had but 
two days to ride it in. Left Bloomington Friday morning, and 
put up for night at Orleans, having travelled forty miles. — 
Saturday morning I was up and started at daylight, and rode 
fourteen miles to breakfast, and at eight o'clock in the evening 
reached New Albany, about fifty miles. As I passed over the 
height of the Knobbs, about four miles before entering the town, 
a scene of the strong sublime opened to my view. It was star 
light, with a clear air, and the sky was brilliant and glowing. 
Beneath, over the broad vale of the Ohio river, rested thin clouds 
of a smoky and damp atmosphere. And all this grandeur and 
beauty were heightened by the stillness and silence of the night, 
and the solitude of the observer. The writer's mind was filled 
with adoring admiration, while he gazed in silence and reflection 
as he descended from these heights. The next day was Sabbath, 
and was spent at New-Albany in preaching again to that people; 
but, ah! there had been many and sad changes since I had lived 
there: — some were removed from the church by death; — some 
were removed away from the place; — some had turned aside to 
ungodliness; — a few were steadfast and abiding here; these were 
mourning over the desolations and the abominations: — I was sad 
to see the low estate of Zion here. Their meeting-house was 



Isaac Reed. 481 

burnt; but there was something' which was cheering to me still 
in all this wretchedness; it was this: — a number of the young con- 
verts, who had been admitted by my ministry, were still cleaving 
to the Lord, and following his ways. From New-Albany I made 
my way to Mercer county, Kentucky, and found my wife and 
child in health; the night after my arrival there, there fell a deep 
snow, which kept me from returning to Nicholasville the next day: 
I omit to send you the particulars of my journal, 
that I may have room to give you an account of Indiana as a 
missionary field; I think it an encouraging field, could it be sup- 
plied soon: it contains 140,000 inhabitants; these inhabitants are 
settled along the Ohio river more than three hundred miles, 
including its windings: up the Wabash river, from its mouth, two 
hundred miles; and up the west line of the Ohio State, one hundred 
and thirty or more miles: settlements are contained in all parts 
between these three boundary-lines. The north part of the State 
is not yet settled; and but lately purchased of the Indians: the 
east part of the State from the Ohio line down the Ohio river, to 
a point directly opposite the mouth of the Kentucky river; and 
to a line running thence due north is included within the bounds 
of the Synod of Ohio. I know not how many Presbyterian 
churches there are in this district; it is among the oldest settled 
parts of the State; it is about forty miles wide from east to west; 
but whatever may be the number of churches, there are but two 
Presbyterian ministers, and neither have a pastoral charge. 
From this line, proceeding westward, the whole remainder of the 
State belongs to the Synod of Kentucky; this is a tract of about 
one hundred miles from east to west; and many parts of it are 
thickly settled: all this territory is in the bounds of the Louis- 
ville Presbytery; and in it all, there are only five Presbyterian 
ministers of the General Assembly; one of these is nearly super- 
annuated; of this number, three only are settled pastors; one of 
these has one, another two, and the third three stated places for 
their preaching: besides these six churches, which are thus par- 
tially supplied with preaching, the whole of the rest of the country 
is missionary ground; and in it there are now fourteen infant 
Presbyterian churches; several of these have been gathered and 
planted; and all of them have been watered by missionaries; of 
these, the missionaries from the Connecticut society, have borne 
their full share; and if the country could be well supplied with 
missionaries, who could spend a year or more among the new 
settlements, or who could be settled in them, after the plan of 



482 Early Travels in Indiana. 

many in the western reserve part of Ohio; labouring the fourth 
part or more of his time as the pastor to some church; and the 
rest of the time as a missionary; there is a fair prospect that new 
churches would be rapidly forming. I have travelled consider- 
able in new settlements in other parts, besides Indiana; but I 
have never found so great numbers, who seem to be religiously 
inclined, and who are professors of some sort, as in Indiana; 
there are all the kinds, regular and irregular, orthodox and heresy 
of the older States. 

In some parts, these professions are gathered into societies, 
and have the ordinances; in other parts they are scattered here 
and there without being so gathered. You therefore see the need 
there is of missionaries, and of missionaries who are faithful men, 
able also to teach others; and these places must be supplied by 
missionaries, or they must remain unsupplied: the settlers in 
general are poor; and the churches have from ten to fifty communi- 
cants, male and female; a few have over fifty, and numbers have 
not over twenty, and some less. These people are without money; 
and but little stock. They are opening, with their own labour, 
farms, where the land is heavily timbered; they are living in mud- 
walled log cabins. What can these people do towards settling 
ministers, who must be supported by their salaries? — what can 
they do? — in money they cannot do hardly any thing; the older 
churches, therefore, must send them missionaries, and help them 
to creep, till they can stand and go alone: or, ah me! their brethern 
perish without the gospel; and the neglect of their poor brethern 
will be upon them. 

I wish to raise for the poor inhabitants of Indiana, the Mace- 
donian cry; "Come over and help us."" Brethern, I tell you what 
I know; I speak of what I have seen; and the eagerness of those 
poor people, to hear the gospel and to attend upon the appoint- 
ments of your missionary; and the thankful prayers, (which he 
heard some of them offer,) are still fresh in his recollection; and 
they plead with him to plead with his older brethren, the trus- 
tees of the Connecticut society, to send them help, as they may 
have ability. Brethern, you have here the map of the country 
before you; it has only seven Presbyterian ministers; and it has 
140,000 inhabitants; these are scattered over an area of country, 
three times as large as Connecticut; and what makes it still more 
important is this, — a vast tract of first-rate land has been lately 
brought into market, and is now fast filling up with people, from 
nearly all the other States. In my late tour, I was within the 



Isaac Reed. 483 

bounds of this new purchase, and preached two sermons in it; 
and if it shall please the trustees to continue my appointment, I 
contemplate removing there in less than a year, to endeavour to 
build up a little church in Owen county, and to labour as a 
missionary: I shall then be in the heart of the State, and of the 
mission ground; and I think I could do more good in the church 
there than where I now am. 



RETURN TO INDIANA — DESIGN OF THAT RETURN— LOCATION ON 

THE FRONTIER RESIDENCE AND MINISTERIAL LABOURS OF 

NEAR FOUR YEARS — WITH OBSERVATIONS ON THE COUNTRY — 
ITS RELIGIOUS CHARACTER, WANTS, ENCOURAGEMENTS, AND 
PROSPECTS — WITH THE NAMES AND PLACES OF THE CHURCHES 
FORMED BY HIS MINISTRY. 



It was the 25th of September, 1822, when we departed from 
Nicholasville in our migration to the frontier settlements of 
Indiana. This journey was 200 miles; and the way led through 
Frankfort, Louisville, New- Albany and Bloomington: — Owen 
county, and the place of location in it, being 20 miles beyond the 
last named of these places. A four-horse team went with our 
stuff, and Elinor and myself travelled in my one horse dearborn. 

The design of this remove has been partly exhibited in part 
third, in the letter to the Rev. Dr. Flint, secretary of the Con- 
necticut Missionary Society. 

It was partly to enjoy the society of family relatives; but it 
was principally, on my part, to take the blessing of the gospel, 
in its ministry, to the needy and the destitute, and to maintain 
and preserve them there. In my former travels I had seen, meas- 
urably, the condition of the country. I knew that Presbyterian 
people were thinly scattered in it. I saw the settlements of the 
country were spreading very rapidly, and that none of our min- 
isters were venturing a location on the frontiers. I saw, that to 
keep our people and to instruct their children, churches must be 
formed, and in some measure supplied. I saw also, that some 
minister must go before in this service; that his example and his 
influence might induce others to venture out and follow into 
these needy new settlements. I saw also, that the field needed 
that some minister of some experience should commence this self- 
denying and laborious service, for the good of the church and the 



484 Early Travels in Indiana. 

salvation of souls. And as none others had given themselves up 
to settle in those new parts of the state, the writer resolved to 
venture forward and lead in this way. 

His scheme for improvement was this: — To locate with a little 
infant church already formed, to instruct them and encourage 
them; — to appropriate the one-half of his ministerial labours to 
their benefit; and to receive from them in return, as much salary 
as they should be able to raise, paid in their personal labour, or 
in the produce of their farms. The balance of his time he held, 
to be devoted to missionary service; and his plan and his practice, 
was to spend alternately one week at home, and the next abroad; 
and certain places were selected for these missionary labours, 
either to strengthen and nourish, and increase some churches, 
which were already begun, or to prepare the way and establish 
new ones. And such was the state of the country and the man- 
ner of its settlements, that these places were distant from each 
other, and most of them distant from the writer's residence and 
charge. The consequence was, that to be punctual in the attend- 
ance of his appointments, and to keep up the hopes of the Presby- 
terian people, subjected him to a vast deal of riding. Respecting 
this plan and this field of action, before his removal from Kentucky, 
he wrote to a friend, a student of theology at Princeton, "that it 
opened to the view of his mind such a field for Christian enter- 
prise and usefulness, as almost raised him above himself." 

At this time, this was theory, but theory which had been 
formed from much observation, and with some knowledge of the 
country, and it soon became practice. 

It was the first week in October when we arrived in Owen 
county, Indiana. 

My place was new and covered with timber. — A tenement 
was to be prepared; I found much difficulty to obtain labour from 
the people, they being hurried with their own work. As far as 
my own personal labour could supply this dificiency, it was sup- 
plied. But still, with all my efforts, much was lacking; my build- 
ing progressed slowly, and to increase my difficulty, the winter 
closed in early. We entered our house the week before Christ-: 
mas, and occupied it that winter, without a loft, with no plaster- 
ing of the chinking, between the logs, a.bove the joice plates, and 
with a large wooden chimney place cut out of the end of the house, 
and built up a little above the mantle piece. 

Wood was plenty, and well it need to be, for a situation like 
that. Yet many were the comforts which were mingled with 



Isaac Reed. 485 

those difficulties, though the trial sat heavily on my Elinor. And 
indeed, I have often wondered since that time, how I could have 
ever had resolution enough to have voluntarily brought myself 
into that situation. But now necessity pushed us on, and hope 
cheered us with the return of spring, and a better prospect in the 
future. Nor do I remember that I ever felt a wish that I had not 
ventured upon this service. It always appeared to me to be 
worthy of my trials in it. This winter of 1822 and '23 I did not 
go beyond the bounds of the county, except a few times into 
Monroe, and to supply at Bloomington. 

Before the spring meeting of Presbytery, which was held at 
Charlestown, 105 miles distant, a call was made out by the 
Bethany church in Owen county, to obtain my ministerial labours 
for one half of the time. I attended the Presbytery and accepted 
the call, when the arrangements were made for an installation in 
August. Soon after my return from this Presbytery, I began to 
open regularly upon my plan of missionary labour. About the 
time of my removal from Kentucky, the Rev. David C. Proctor 
engaged for a year at Indianapolis, for three-fourths of his time, 
and soon after he engaged to supply the remaining fourth part of 
his time at Bloomington. These places are 52 miles apart. In 
passing from one to the other of these places, he usually came by 
my house. It was not before July of this year that the way 
became prepared to constitute a church at Indianapolis. My 
first visit to that place was through many perils of waters by the 
way, in company with Mr. Proctor, the 3d of July. On the after- 
noon of the 4th I preached to the Presbyterian friends at a cabi- 
net maker's shop; and at the same place on the morning of the 
5th, I presided as moderator, in the formation of the church at 
Indianapolis. The same day two other ministers arrived; the 
next day was the Sfobbath, and there were four ministers with 
this new-formed church. This was now the second year of the 
settlement of this town. In the same month I made my first 
tour through the churches and settlements near the Wabash above 
Terre Haute, and visited the newly located town of Crawfords- 
ville. In this tour, I passed a night in the woods, without human 
company, or other light than that made by the lightning. 

In August, I went to a sacrament in Knox county, and first 
saw Vincennes; this was about 85 miles from my residence, 
nearly south west; — here has been a Presbyterian minister for 
many years well nigh alone, keeping a Presbyterian post near 
the old French military post of Vincennes. To this place I was 



486 Early Travels in Indiana. 

invited by the resident minister to assist him in a sacramental 
meeting to be given on Friday. — In October, I again attended 
Presbytery; (this session was held at Shelby ville, Kentucky;) 
and from Presbytery went on to Synod at Lexington; this was a 
travel of 150 miles to attend Presbytery, and 200, or very nearly, 
to attend Synod. After the Synod, I visited Nicholasville, 
White Oak, and Danville; preached again on the Sabbath to my 
congregation of Nicholasville, and a number of times in the 
county; this is the last time of my being in those places. That 
meeting of Synod divided the Louisville Presbytery, and formed 
a new one in Indiana; this had been an object greatly desired by 
the members in Indiana. The new one was, at my suggestion, 
named "Salem Presbytery." In this name I regarded its Scrip- 
tural signification; — its first mating was not held till the follow- 
ing April. 



In April, 1824, the Salem Presbytery had its first meeting. 
This was held in the town of Salem. That meeting I attended, 
and was one of the committee to form rules for its regulations, 
and times of meeting. I also drew up the report respecting the 
state of religion within its bounds. In this I endeavoured to give 
a brief outline of the country, with its need of increase of minis- 
ters. This report was designed for the general assembly at 
Philadelphia, whither it was sent. A copy was also sent to Hart- 
ford, Connecticut, and published in the Connecticut Observer. 

Immediately after Presbytery, I spent some days, by special 
request, in the south part of Washington county, to form a church ; 
this church was formed and named "Bethlehem." I think its 
members were 14; to this church I administered the sacrament the 
day after its formation. Early this spring was printed my first 
little book; this was a tract of twelve pages with this title, "The 
Christian's Duty;" of this, I published an edition of a thousand 
copies. Most of these I have either distributed gratuitously or 
sold, and I have reason to believe they have been useful. This 
year I also constituted two other Presbyterian churches, and 
revived, by God's blessing, a third. The first of these was 
gathered at Crawfordsville in June, and revisited and the sacra- 
ment administered in September. The other was over the Wabash 
river, in Edgar county, Illinois. This was over 70 miles west- 
ward from my residence. It was not till after a third application 
that I was able to go. 



Isaac Reed. 487 

At the time of that visit, there seemed a special divine influence 
on the minds of several. Returning from that place, I came 
through a relic of a church formed just upon the line of the two 
states, by the Rev. N. B. Denow. It had now but one ruling 
elder and nine or ten members; but here the spirit of the Lord 
seemed to be moving on the minds of numbers. I held a sacra- 
ment for them and others on the east side of the Wabash river, 
in the village of Terre Haute, on Thursday in the week, and five 
were received into this little church, and, from that time it has a 
blessed season of revival till its numbers were seventy. Its first 
name had been "Hopewell," but at my suggestion, it was changed 
to New Hope. Of this tour and these things, a letter was pub- 
lished in the Western Luminary, printed at Lexington, Kentucky, 
under the title of "Good News from the Frontiers." 

In the fall of 1823, the Rev. D. C. Proctor left Indiana, and 
located in Kentucky. From this time, the particular care of the 
church at Bloomington and at Indianapolis, fell upon me, till the 
arrival of the Rev. Mr. Bush at the latter place in the summer of 
1824, and the Rev. Mr. Hall at Bloomington near the same time. 
Neither sacraments nor baptism were performed in either, but 
by my ministry. My travels in this year, 1824, were 2,480 miles. 
I attended sixteen sacramental meetings, in which I either had 
the whole ministerial labours, or assisted with others; examined 
about forty persons, who were received into the communion of 
the church; nine of these where I was pastor. Baptised eight 
adults and sixty-one children. 

The fall session of our Presbytery was held at Charlestown. 
At this was granted the first licensure, which ever took place in 
the Presbyterian church in Indiana. At this meeting, the writer 
acted as moderator; as he did also in the first ordination the fol- 
lowing March. In the spring session of the Presbytery of 1825, 
which was held at Washington, the writer preached the opening 
sermon, and the following week he preached the ordination ser- 
mon at Bloomington, when the Rev. B. R. Hall was ordained and 
installed over the church at Bloomington. In this year there 
were six ordinations in the Presbyterian church in Indiana. Four 
of these I attended and took a part; — at the first, which was the 
Rev. Geo. Bush at Indianapolis; as moderator, I gave out the 
appointments to the others, and took the address to the congre- 
gation on myself. At the second, which was this at Bloomington, 
I preached the sermon. At the next, which was the Rev. Alex- 
ander Williamson as evangelist, I was not present. At the fourth, 



488 Early Travels in Indiana. 

which was the Rev. T. H. Brown, over the Bethlehem church, I 
preached the sermon. At the fifth, which was the Rev. Stephen 
Bliss as evangelist, and which took place at Vincennes, I gave the 
charge to the evangelist. 

This was at a meeting of the Presbytery, held in connexion 
with the annual meeting of the Indiana Missionary Society; this 
was a society in which I felt a great interest. It was formed by 
the brethren in Indiana, in the summer of 1822; whilst I was in 
Kentucky I became a member of it, at its first anniversary, 1823, 
and received a commission to perform eight weeks of missionary 
labours. A part of these weeks of labour were performed. That 
anniversary I was not able to attend. 

The second anniversary, which was held in August, 1824, I 
attended, and made myself and my wife life members, by the 
payment of 10 dollars for each. The next year, was this time at 
Vincennes, when I made my oldest child a life member by the 
payment of 10 dollars more, and before leaving Indiana, in 1826, 
I made another child a life member by the payment of 10 dollars 
more; I also interested myself much in the increase of its funds 
by others, and with some success; particularly was this the case 
at Bloomington, Charlestown, Indianapolis, and Terre Haute, 
and from a female friend in Green county. I looked upon it as 
a means which promised great good to the needy churches in 
Indiana, and its meetings were seasons of much satisfaction to 
my mind. The last of these meetings which I was favoured to 
attend, was that in August, 1825, where, in connexion with another 
brother, I drew up its report and prepared it for the press. In 
the summer also of this year, I published two sermons in one book. 
One of these was a New- Year's sermon to the young people of 
Owen county, the other, the ordination sermon at Bloomington. 
This sermon also the Salem Presbytery had printed, at Lexington, 
Kentucky. A little book of my preparing, called "Conversations^ 
on Infant Baptism, mainly abridged from a work of Charles 
Jaram, A.M., of England." This abridgment had been first 
made, when I resided at Nicholasville; it was now revised the last 
winter, and submitted to our Presbytery in its session at Bloom- 
ington in April. By them it was adopted, and a resolution passed 
to publish it. It was published in an edition of 1000 copies. 
These were sold, as far as I have known, very readily. 

This year my missionary labours were principally bestowed 
upon certain settlements in Green county, which lay south west 
of my residence, and upon several settlements in Putnam county, 



Isaac Reed. 489 

which lay west, and upon three settlements in Johnson county, 
which lay north east. My effort was, to found a Presbyterian 
church in each of these counties; and though there were many 
impediments and few members, and in two of them, these few 
members lived very distant from each other, yet the Lord blessed 
my labours. These members were brought together, and a 
church was constituted in each county. The one in Green was 
formed in July, with three male and two female members. This 
is the smallest number of which I have ever formed a church; and 
it seems that a blessing has been in it, for, before I left the State, 
in 1826, it had increased to twelve members. This society 
seemed to form a connecting link between the upper and the lower 
Presbyterian churches near White river. Before this there was 
no Presbyterian church between my own in Owen county, and 
Washington in Davies' county, about 70 miles. This new formed 
one was in the intervening county, and about the middle way 
between the others. Upward upon, or near White river, the 
nearest was Indianapolis, 45 miles above my place. The church 
formed in Putnam county, formed a connecting link between 
the Presbyterian churches on White river and those on the 
Wabash; it being about middle way between them, and the road, 
from both Indianapolis and Bloomington, pass through the 
county seat of Putnam. 

To form this church required much previous labour in preach- 
ing, visiting, and travel. The preparation was commenced the 
preceding year, and the church was constituted in August of this 
year, with twelve members; four of these were received by 
examination. 

In September of this year, I visited the churches of Paris and 
New Hope, west of the Wabash: from the former I had received 
a Macedonian call, when at Presbytery at Vincennes: and, as 
said Nehemiah of the king of Persia, / had set than a time, and in 
this time, as the Lord would have it, I came to condole with 
them in their affliction, at the death of a missionary, who had 
been with them from the spring till the middle of July, and by 
whom they had been greatly blessed. The Lord owned his 
ministry with them, and they loved him. Soon after he left 
them to return to his friends in New-York state, he was taken 
sick at Vincennes, and died about the middle of August. His 
name was John Young, about 28 years old, and he had been 
about eight months living in the State. To both these congre- 
gations, I preached a funeral sermon respecting his death; they 



490 . Early Travels in Indiana. 

requested its publication, and provided the means; it was printed 
at Indianapolis in October. 



I have thought my readers would like to have introduced a 
short specimen of my journal. I begin with my last missionary 
tour, before my leaving the service and the State, in 1826. The 
notices are short, and the journal is as follows. 

April 11th, 1826. — Left home on a mission tour. Mrs. Reed 
and Mr. Dayhoff were with me. There was a great freshet in 
White river. We had to ride about fifteen miles to get nine. 
Passed the first night at Spencer. This is a little place, which 
improves but slowly. 

April 12th.- — Crossed White river by a ferry, and made our 
way downward upon the East side. The creeks on the west side 
being impassable from back water out of White river. On this 
side, too, the low bottoms were under water, and the back water 
filled the mouths of all the creeks. Often we could not keep the 
road, but had to make through the woods — to climb the steep 
points of the hills, and cross over the guts. Two creeks we crossed 
upon fallen trees. We had first to strip our horses, and drive 
them through swimming; then to walk the log, and carry over 
our saddles, great coats, and saddle-bags — catch our horses — 
remount, and make our way through the woods and brush. 
Rode about thirty miles, which took up the whole day. 

April 13th. — Crossed White river, by another ferry, a distance 
of three quarters of a mile. When the water is within the river 
banks the ferry is not above ten rods. The water has been three 
feet higher with this rise than was the preceding. Got a late 
breakfast at Mr. Ingersol's, near the river; then crossed the 
prairie to Mr. Dayhoff's. He was now my travelling companion, 
and had been to Owen to attend the Presbytery, as a ruling elder 
from the White river church in Green county. This made a ride 
of eight miles to-day. Preached at night at his house on Scaffold 
Prairie: it was a small congregation. The settlement is very 
small. The attention seemed good. This and surrounding set- 
tlements are an encouraging field for missionary labour. 

April 14th. — Spent the morning at Mr. Dayhoff's, partly 
writing in my journal; then rode five miles to Nine Mile Prairie. 
This settlement has six families — visited two, and catechized one 
of them. Preached at night; very good attendance, and still 
attention. 



Isaac Reed. 491 

April 15th. — Returned to Scaffold Prairie — visited two fam- 
ilies, and preached at night. This is a very needy missionary 
tract. 

April 16th, Sabbath. — Rode seven miles and preached two 
sermons at a school-house, called "Fairplay" School-house. The 
attendance and attention were pretty good. In this neighbour- 
hood there are some of the advocates of Robert Owen's new 
system of society — visited two families. 

April 17th. — Returned to Scaffold prairie — was this day very 
weak, being much overdone. 

April 18th. — Copied the records of the White river church, 
which I had constituted the last summer with five members. It 
was now increased to twelve members. It has had no supplies 
but the few visits which I have made. Wrote a man his will 
to-day. 

April 19th. — A very high and strong wind to-day. Started 
this morning, Elinor with me, and our infant child, and rode 
about five miles on our way toward Terre Haute, but the wind 
was so strong, and the way so wet, that we returned to Mr. Dayhoff 's. 
Read in Josephus' History the wars of the Jews. 

April 20th. — Mrs. Reed concluded to stay behind, and let me 
go up the Wabash without her. Travelled thirty-four miles, — 
most of the way was through wet clay prairies. It was seventeen 
miles to the first house, then six miles to the next. Spent the 
night at Terre Haute. 

April 21st.- — Called to see two young men, merchants, whose 
younger brother died last night. Saw the corpse: the case was 
pleurisy ; — the disease was violent and rapid — lasted just twenty- 
five hours. After this, I rode thirty-four miles, and crossed the 
Wabash river into Vermillion county. On my way to-day, I 
had to ferry across Raccoon creek. The young man who tended 
and worked the flat, used considerable profane language. I was 
silent till we were over, and then, as I handed him the ferriage 
money, looking him in the face, I said, "I have one request to 
make of you, Sir; it is, that the next man you ferry over, shall 
not hear you swear." The man looked confused, and was silent. 

April 22d. — Rode eight miles in Vermillion county, and 
visited one family. Appointed to preach to-morrow at a log 
school-house, in the central part of the county. I was this day 
very ill with a severe cold deeply seated in my head. I think the 
prospect is good of getting a church here. O Lord, strengthen 
'me to the work. 



492 Early Travels in Indiana. 

April 23d, Sabbath.— Rode four miles to the school-house, and 
preached. Then, three miles further, to visit a family and pass 
the night, the woman being a member of the church in Vigo 
county. The Lord be praised: I have been supported to-day, 
and feel much better this evening than I did in the morning. I 
am now on the bank of the Little Vermillion river. 

April 24th. — Rode four or five miles, and visited two families. 
In one of these were two church members, but no appearance of 
religion at the other. 

April 25th. — Rode three miles and preached in a private house, 
near the Big Vermillion river; there was only a small attendance. 

April 26th. — Rode nine miles and preached at a house on Big 
Vermillion prairie. It was a very beautiful place, and an atten- 
tive congregation. Visited three families. 

April 27th. — Visited three families, and rode five miles. 

April 28th. — Rode four miles, and visited two families. In 
one of these I examined four persons for church membership. 
Two of these were an old couple, who have been 40 years married; 
they are about 70 years old. Two were young women daughters 
of this old couple. This family is from Pennsylvania. 

April 29. — Preached a sermon on family religion, and baptised 
an infant child. I then set apart and constituted a new church; 
called for the river and county, "Vermillion church." It consists 
of four male and nine female members. Four of them were 
received by examination, the other nine had been members in 
other places. I also wrote a subscription paper for this new 
congregation. 

Sabbath, 30th April, 1826. — This was a lovely day in weather 
and in worship at this place. — Preached at Mr. Thompson's, near 
the south bank of the Big Vermillion, and near the west bank of 
the Wabash. After sermon, administered the Lord's supper to 
the new church of Vermillion. Received one member by letter, 
making fourteen members in all. Rode 9 miles to lodge that 
night. 

May 1. — Re-crossed the Wabash, and rode 38 miles down the 
river in my returning way. Lodged about five miles below Terre 
Haute, at Mr. Caldwell's. This family is friendly, and Presby- 
terially attached, but not pious. 

May 2. — This was a very rainy day. I had appointed to be 
back where I had left Mrs. Reed to-day, and to preach there 
to-morrow. — The first part of the day, the rain was light, but 
increased. Rode 32 miles without stopping, the last 13 miles in 



Isaac Reed. 493 

a very fast rain; was thoroughly drenched, but reached my 
destined place some time before night; found my wife and child 
well, with all the friends at Mr. Dayhoff's. 

May S.-*-Clear and pleasant; felt a little dull and sore, from 
my hard and wet ride; read some in Josephus; preached at 4 
o'clock, P. M.; had a small and attentive congregation; went 
about half a mile to lodge; visited two families to-day. 

May 4. — Remained with friends at Scaffold priairie; attended 
meeting with a Methodist travelling preacher; exhorted and 
prayed after his sermon, read in Josephus. 

May 5. — A clear, but very windy day; rode 32 miles back the 
same road which I had rode the second. Mrs. Reed was now 
with me. We had some difficulties from high waters in the wet 
prairies. We were in some times up to the saddle skirts for several 
roods; but were mercifully preserved and enabled to reach the 
house I designed to reach. 

May 6. — Rode five miles to Terre Haute; expected to preach 
there at 12 o'clock, preparatory to the Lord's supper the next 
day; but no congregation assembled; concluded not to have the 
sacrament the next day; preached at night to a small congrega- 
tion in the court house. In the afternoon, ascended into the 
cupola of the court house, from which is an extensive and beau- 
tiful view, embracing the whole of fort Harrison prairie, with the 
skirting forests, the farms and buildings. 

Sabbath, May 7. — A lovely day; preached at 11 o'clock in the 
court house; a large congregation. I was much pleased to find 
this town so still on the Sabbath. 

Its order is greatly improved in two years. But still it is 
without any religious society. A Methodist now preaches here 
two Sabbaths in each month. The professors of religion, whom 
I expected to meet here, live at a distance from the town. 

'May 8. — Rode six miles in the morning. It rained a little; 
then crossed the Wabash about 5 miles; visited and prayed with 
a sick woman. She was supposed to be dying: she was sensible, 
patient, and pious: — numbers were there watching to see her 
expire. Thence I rode to New-Hope meeting house, 5 miles, 
and preached at 4 o'clock, P. M.; had about forty hearers, who 
were very attentive; returned across the Wabash 4 miles. — The 
whole ride to-day, 20 miles. Twice crossed the Wabash by a 
ferry. It is high, and overflows its banks in many places. 

May 9. — Retraced the way to Scaffold prairie, about 33 miles, 
Mrs. Reed with me. There was a great rain the last night. 



494 Early Travels in Indiana. 

And this, so soon after others, made the roads very wet. Much 
of our way was under water. The course was through low clay 
prairies. We stopped but once, and then only half an hour. 

May 10.— Weak from the fatigue of yesterday. Left Mrs. 
Reed, and rode about 13 miles: visited three families; returned and 
preached on Scaffold prairie at night, to a small congregation of 
attentive hearers; but there was one traveller, who, I have been 
told, is an avowed and strong deist. 

May 11. — Rode 12 miles to-day. Did not preach, but 
appointed to preach on Nine Mile prairie to-morrow. 

May 12. — Rode 10 miles to-day; preached at Mr. A's, at Nine 
Mile prairie. The meeting was well attended. The settlement 
is made up of five or six families. 

May 13. — Spent the day at Mr. D.'s, and preached at night. 

Sabbath, May 14. — Preached at Mr. D.'s on the death of 
Christ. Had a very attentive congregation. I am encouraged 
in my labours here. The beginning was very small, but it has 
grown. After the meeting, I asked the family the questions of 
the shorter catechism. 

May 15.- — Started for home. Had to swim our horses over 
Fish creek, and cross in a canoe; rode 34 miles, make one stop, 
and reached home just at dusk, and found our friends in our 
house, and the child we had left with them, well. 

In this tour I had been absent 34 days; preached sixteen times; 
had two seasons of asking the shorter catechism to families; 
baptised one child; gathered and constituted a church; adminis- 
tered the Lord's supper; visited and prayed with one dying per- 
son; made twenty-eight visits in families, and travelled 394 miles. 



Churches in Indiana. 

The following "Sketches of the former history, and present 
religious state of Indiana," were made by the Rev. Isaac Reed, 
in the winter of 1826. 

My first introduction into Indiana, was in July, 1818. At 
that time there was a Presbyterian church at Madison, and a 
minister there; but not its pastor. Indeed, there was no pastor 
in any Presbyterian church in the State. Down the Ohio river 
from Madison, was Pisgah church. This was a little church in 
a country settlement formed by the Rev. James M'Gready. At 
Charlestown,'^County seat of Clarke county, was a small church 



Isaac Reed. 495 

and resident minister. At New-Albany, was a little church of 
twelve members, formed by the Rev. D. C. Banks. From this 
down the Ohio river to the State line at the mouth of the Wabash, 
there was no church, and no minister. In the direction towards 
Vincennes, there was a little church at Blue river, and another at 
Livonia, both formed by Mr. M'Gready.— In these two last men- 
tioned, and another at Salem, the Rev. Wm. W. Martin preached 
at that time. At Washington, Davis county, was a little church, 
which the Rev. J. M. Dickey had supplied for a time, but was 
then about to leave it. In Knox county, and near Vincennes, was 
a small church, supplied by the Rev. S. T. Scott. Thirty miles 
higher up the Wabash river, was a little church, supplied by the 
Rev. J. Balch, an aged man. Besides these, the Rev. Nathan B. 
Derrow was in the State, as a missionary from the Connecticut 
Missionary Society; and had formed two little churches; one in 
Jennings, and one in Jackson counties. The Rev. Orin Fowler, 
another Missionary from Connecticut, came into the State this 
summer, and remained till the next spring. He organized three 
churches. He was diligent and popular, and appeared to do much 
good. 

The writer stopped at New- Albany in September, and engaged 
to supply there for a year, in October. He had come as a volun- 
teer, at his own charges, into Kentucky the preceding year. In 
December, a little church was formed at Corydon, at that time 
the seat of government of the Stajte, by the Rev. J. F. Crow. 
All these places, churches, and ministers, were in the bounds of 
the Louisville Presbytery, and of the Kentucky Synod. In 
August, 1819, the Rev. J. M. Dickey was installed pastor over 
the united congregations of New-Lexington and Pisgah. This 
was the first installation in the Presbyterian church, ever held in 
the State. The same summer, the Rev. Thomas O. Searle came 
to Madison, and the Rev. N. B. Derrow left the State. About 
this time, the Rev. J. Balch died. The writer also having ful- 
filled his year at New-Albany, left the State in December, and 
went into Kentucky. A young man, missionary from the Board 
of Missions of the General Assembly, was in the State for six 
months; the last of the former, and the first part of this year: 
and two others for a like term the following winter and spring. 
In 1820, Mr. Searle became pastor at Madison, and Mr. Martin 
was installed pastor at Livonia. A new church, named Hanover, 
was formed and united with the Madison church. In the Autumn 
of 1821, Mr. Searle died at Madison. He was pious, active, and 



496 Early Travels in Indiana. 

eminently useful. In the autumn of 1822, the writer returned 
to the State, a missionary from the Connecticut Society, with his 
family, and settled in Owen county, upon White river. The same 
time the Rev. D. C. Proctor, missionary from the Connecticut 
Society, engaged for a year at Indianapolis, the new seat of 
government of the state. The following winter, the Rev. C. C. 
Beatty performed a mission tour of four months, along the 
Wabash river; and formed three churches. He was sent by the 
General Assembly. In the spring of 1823, the Rev. J. F. Crow 
removed from Kentucky, to the Hanover church. 

He and the writer were both installed in their respective con- 
gregations this year. The Rev. Ezra H. Day came to New- 
Albany in the summer of 1822. He preached there a year, and 
died in September, 1823. The following winter, Joseph Trimble, 
missionary from the General Assembly, came into the State. He 
fulfilled a mission of six months, and engaged to become settled 
at Madison. The Presbytery was called to ordain and install 
him; but found him, on the day of meeting, on his death-bed. 
He died the same day which was set for his ordination. He was 
very diligent, and highly useful. The Salem Presbytery, the first 
Presbytery in the State, was formed by the Synod of Kentucky, 
in October, 1823, and held its first meeting in April, 1824. 

The first candidate for the ministry licensed in the State, was 
Mr. T. H. Brown, at Charlestown, October, 1824. The first 
ordination, was that of the Rev. George Bush, at Indianapolis, 
March 5, 1825. Since that, five other ministers have been 
ordained, and three of them installed. The Rev. S. T. Scott 
has also been installed pastor at Vincennes. The churches have 
been increased from twelve, the number in 1818, to forty-two, 
the present number. There was a Missionary Society formed in 
August, 1822; and in 1824, and part of — 25, it employed, for a 
short time, six missionaries. In October, 1825, the Synod of 
Kentucky divided the Salem Presbytery, and formed two new 
ones; viz. the Wabash Presbytery, and the Madison Presbytery. 
In August, 1825, Mr. John Young, missionary for the General 
Assembly died, at Vincennes, having just finished a mission of 
six months: he was very active, and is greatly lamented. — Such 
have been the trials, such the increase, and such the enlarge- 
ments of the church in Indiana. And may her Master say to 
her, increase, increase, and possess the land. 



Isaac Reed. 497 

indiana the country for christian effort and the field 

OF HOPE. 

No. I. 

The State of Indiana lies between the States Ohio on the east, 
and Illinois on the west; the Ohio river on the south, and Lake 
Michigan and Michigan territory on the north. It is in one of 
the happiest latitudes in the Union. Stretching from 37 cleg. 
50 min. to 41 cleg. 48 min. north latitude; and from 7 deg. 40 min. 
to 11 deg. west longitude from Washington. It is without a 
mountain, and has scarcely a swamp over which a man cannot 
ride on horseback. It has much low lands, which at some sea- 
sons are wet. Its river banks are low and they overflow widely. 
It has much high, rolling and dry lands. The writer's residence 
has been for years in the central part, in Owen county, and his 
travels have been over almost every part which is either settled 
or begun to settle. In these rolling lands springs of the very 
best water are plenty; and many of them are very large. In its 
flat lands good water is easily obtained by digging. The lands 
near the Ohio river are in many parts broken; but as you leave 
the Ohio and advance into the interior, the good tracts become 
larger and the soil richer; and the same, as you ascend up the 
Wabash and White rivers. These are elegant streams. The 
Wabash traces the western part, and the two White rivers the 
central parts of the State. They furnish a water conveyance for 
the produce of the country to the Ohio river, and thence to New- 
Orleans. Steam-boats ascend the Wabash in the spring. In 
the spring of 1826, some ascended as high as the mouth of Tippe- 
canoe river. The Indians are almost wholly gone from the state, 
and the white settlements are very rapidly extending up the rivers 
towards their source. The State has 54, organized counties, con- 
taining an average of 20 or 24 miles square. Each of these 
counties has a seat of justice and county business, called the 
Town, and the other settlements are called the country. In the 
Town are the stores, the taverns, the doctors, the lawyers, and 
numbers of the mechanics of the county. The population is ;i 
mixture from almost every quarter; but mainly from south of the 
Ohio river. Interest has drawn most; to be in new count lies 
has induced others, and to get away from negro slavery, has 
influenced not a few in their removes from the slave-holding states. 
There are many from Ohio, and some from the northern states, 
but their numbers are few. 



498 Early Travels in Indiana. . 

Their religions are avowedly Christian, but of all the different 
sects in the Union. And a very large part are professors of 
religion in some society. There are many meetings, and there 
is much of family prayer. Indeed, I believe there is much of 
religion — much of experimental Christianity in this new state. 
There are many assumed preachers, but there are but few truly 
competent gospel preachers; at least they are few in proportion 
to the population, and the extent of settled country. 

My next Number shall be upon its government, and its increase 
of population, since my going into it, in the summer of 1818, and 
its character for health. Respectfully yours, 

Isaac Reed. 

No. II. 
The Government. 

This, like the other States of the Federal Union is Republican. 
It became a State government in 1816. Almost all manner of 
offices are made immediately by the election of the people. Every 
freeman, except persons of colour, is entitled to vote for the 
Governor and representation in both branches of the Legislature. 
Its Senators are chosen for four years. It representatives are 
chosen for one year. And its Governor is chosen for three years. 
Its Legislature, in both branches, meets annually. Its Senators 
in the Congress of the United States — its President Judges of 
judicial districts: its Judges of the Court of Appeals, and some of 
its State officers, such as the Secretary of State, Treasurer, and 
Auditor, are elected by the Legislature. The Judges of the Court 
of Appeals, or the supreme court of the State, are three. And. 
this court is held twice each year in the seat of government. The 
judicial districts are five, and there is a president judge to each 
of these districts. Associated with him, in holding court in each 
county, are two, chosen by the freemen of the county, and called 
associate judges of the circuit court. This court has both criminal 
and civil jurisdiction. And it answers to Oyer and Terminer, and 
common pleas. 

The county court consists of all the magistrates in the county, 
or rather of all those who attend in the county seat, at the time 
set, for holding the court. These determine respecting county 
regulations; such as building court houses and jails, making town- 
ships, granting roads, assessing and collecting taxes, granting 
tavern licenses, &c. Each county has its clerk of the circuit 



Isaac Reed. 499 

court, and recorder, chosen by the electors in the county. These 
are two distinct offices, but they are frequently held by the same 
individual. 

From the office of the County Clerk, must be issued the cer- 
tificates for solemnizing marriage, between the persons therein 
named. And to the same office must a return certificate be 
made, by the person who solemnizes a marriage. Ordained and 
licensed preachers of the gospel, of all denominations, judges of 
the courts, and county magistrates, are legally authorized to 
solemnize marriage. In each of the judicial districts, the presi- 
dent judge goes round his circuit, and holds a court in each county, 
twice a year. His salary is $700 a-year, the Governor's salary is 
$1000 a-year, and the Secretary of State's salary $400 a-year. 
The State has three congressional districts, each of which elects 
one representative to congress. Such is a brief outline of the 
government of Indiana. Its present and permanent seat of 
government is Indianapolis; — a fast rising and flourishing town, 
delightfully situated on the east side of White river, just below 
the junction of Fall creek. To this place the government was 
removed from Cory don in the winter of 1826. 

Its Increase of Population. 

My first entrance into Indiana was from the State of Ken- 
tucky, in the character of a volunteer Preacher of the Gospel, 
with no patronage but from on high. I then travelled, and had 
travelled the whole preceding year at my own charges. This 
entrance was in the month of July. And by turning to my jour- 
nal for the time, I find that I crossed the Ohio river at Madison, 
and first put my feet upon the north shore the 23d of July, 1818. 
At that time, as near as I could learn, the population of the State 
was about 100,000. When the United States census was taken 
in 1820, it was between 140,000 and 150,000. Since that time, 
it has increased very rapidly. At present it equals, and prob- 
ably exceeds 200,000. Eight years has then given an increase of 
near 100,000 population, and this in a State which is but ten 
years old. 

Its Health. 

Like all large tracts of country, its character for health differs 
in different parts. It is a State, almost precisely similar to the 
State of Ohio. There are parts which are sickly: there are parts 
which are healthy: and there are parts which have a mixed 



500 Early Travels in Indiana. 

character. It is equally favourable in health, with the State of 
Ohio; or with the State of New- York, westward from the village 
of Utica. The hilly and rolling lands, and parts of the State, are 
healthy. The flat lands, and river bottoms, are sickly. My 
residence with my family of almost four years, was without once 
employing a physician; and I would have no more fears of sick- 
ness in that settlement, than in Connecticut. But pretty exten- 
sively, the inhabitants are prone to bilious diseases, and strangers 
have to require a seasoning. This, Sir, is its character for health. 
And I have made these observations from an acquaintance of 
eight years; and five years entire residence in the State. 

Isaac Reed. 
Moriah, N. Y., Feb. 18th, 1827. 

No. III. 

Principal Towns. 

Madison is a brick built commercial town. It lies on the 
north bank of the Ohio river, 80 miles below Cincinnati. It has 
about 1200 population. It is a point of deposite and trade, for 
an extensive interior of fertile country. Charlestown is near 30 
miles lower down the Ohio river, and is four miles back from it. 
It is brick built, and nearly the size of Madison. Both places 
are county seats. They have each a Presbyterian church and 
minister. — Jeffersonville is 14 miles south-west from Charles- 
town: it lies on the Ohio river, nearly opposite Louisville. Here 
is the location of the State Prison. This is a trading village, but 
not large. New-Albany, 4 miles below Jeffersonville, is the first 
village below the falls of the Ohio. The population is about 800. 
On the Ohio, below New-Albany, the only villages of note, are 
Leavenworth and Evansville; the latter is near the lower corner 
of the State. They are not large, but increasing. — On the 
Wabash river, are Vincennes, an old military Post, called "Post 
Vincent." It was originally settled by the French, and numbers 
of French are still there. It is situated upon a delightful, small, 
dry prairie. It is improving. The population is about 1000. — 
Sixty miles higher, up the Wabash, is Terre Haute, a handsome 
little village of white buildings. It has a great deal of mercantile 
business, and about 300 population. In the interior of the State 
is Salem, county seat of Washington county, 30 miles from the 
Ohio river. — Bloomington, in Monroe county, about 90 miles 
from the Ohio river. This is a thriving town of about 400 or 



Isaac Reed. 501 

500 population, and the location of the State Seminary. — Indi- 
anapolis is about 50 miles northward of Bloomington. This is 
the permanent seat of the State Government, and has 800 popu- 
lation. The first sale of its lots was in the autumn of 1821; and 
it was then mainly covered with thick woods. About it is a wide 
extent of first rate lands, and though so young in settlement, the 
population is becoming dense. The town has three religious 
societies; a well finished Presbyterian meeting-house, and settled 
minister. In May, 1826, there was a Sabbath school of 85 boys 
and 87 girls. The attention to good order and to religion is 
favourable. — In the east part of the State is Richmond, a small 
but neat town, inhabited principally by Friend Quakers. There 
is held th^ir yearly meeting. — In the south-east part is Brook- 
ville, seat of justice of Franklin county, and Lawrenceburg of 
Dearborn county, and Vevay of Switzerland county. And there 
are in the State a number more, which are nearly equal to some 
of these. 

Literature. 

The State is not districted: and the common schools arc gen- 
erally of a low character, when compared with the schools of the 
Northern States. Here and there is found a district, where the 
school is well supported, and well taught. The schools are nearly 
all taught by men. It is a rare thing to see a woman teaching 
school. There are a good many men of public education in the 
State, graduates from different colleges. There are many people 
of common school education; but there are also many men, and 
many women, who cannot read at all. In Indianapolis there is a 
common school, on a fine plan, and well supported. There are 
a few Academies in different parts, but they are not distinguished. 
There is one College in its incipient state, located at Bloomington. 
It is the State Seminary. It is taught by a Presbyterian minister, 
of superior attainments, and distinguished character. It is 
richly endowed in lands, which, as yet, are not much productive. 

Respectfully, &c. 
Moriah, N. Y. March 19, 1827. Isaac Reed. 

No. IV. 
My last number introduced the state of learning in Indiana. 
I believe there are more men of public education in the profes- 
sions of law and medicine, than would be expected abroach in the 
State so young. The ministers also of the Presbyterian church 



502 Early Travels in Indiana. 

are such men, and but few of the other denominations are such. 
Among the common people, many are found possessing much 
intelligence, and who, in older States, have been men of active 
business. The state of learning is also on the advance. But 
there are many of the people without even a common school 
education. When I began first to distribute Religious Tracts, in 
different parts, I found I often gave, or was about to give tracts, 
to persons who could not read. Afterwards, when I was about 
to give tracts to strangers, I first asked them whether they could 
read, before I offered them the tracts. 

Its Benevolent Institutions. 

The first of these is the Indiana Missionary Society, formed 
in August, 1822, and designed to aid in supplying the destitute 
with the preaching of the gospel and Christian sacraments in the 
bounds of the State. Its funds are small, but it has employed 
several missionaries for a few months at a time. Of those mis- 
sionaries the writer is one. While in the State, he perseveringly 
and successfully endeavoured to advance the Institution. He 
looks back to it now with satisfaction and intense interest. — ■ 
The next is the Sabbath School Society. The writer believes the 
first Sabbath School in the State, was commenced by his efforts 
at New Albany, in 1819. From that time they increased and 
commenced in different places. They have become numerous, 
not merely in the towns and villages, but in country neighbour- 
hoods and in new settlements. The writer has often addressed 
them in missionary tours, and sometimes in log school houses — 
sometimes in little cabins, and once in the woods without a house. 
— In October, 1825, a Constitution was formed and Society con- 
stituted, to be called the State Union Society. It was to have its 
first anniversary at Indianapolis in August, 1826. The writer 
was one of the committee which formed the constitution. — There 
are a number of County Bible Societies: of these the Madison 
Bible Society has, I believe, been the most efficient. The writer 
made an address at its formation at Madison, in the summer of 
1818. — A Presbyterian Education Society was commenced in the 
Salem Presbytery in its session at Charlestown in October 1824, 
and made its first report in October, 1825; and then adjourned to 
meet at Indianapolis in August, 1826, to form a State Society. 
In the Missionary Society, the Sabbath School Society, and the 
Education Society, it is but just to say of the Presbyterian min- 
isters, they have led the way; they have been the pioneers and 



Isaac Reed. 503 

the active agents. Few as they are, besides doing their utmost 
to preach and to minister in their own congregations, the partial 
supply of four times as many destitute congregations has come 
upon him, and the whole weight of the formation and leading 
support of these Benevolent Institutions. These ministers are 
a company of men who fear not difficulties — who shrink not from 
service — and who love as brethren. The writer loves them as his 
fellow-labourers in the field of Christian enterprise, and the vine- 
yard of the Lord. His heart is with them — his prayers are for 
them; may they still pursue and overcome in the strength of the 
Lamb. 

Its Religion. 

The Methodists and the Baptists are both numerous. There 
is one or two societies of the Associate Presbytery or Seceders; 
two or three societies of the Reformed Presbytery or Covenanters; 
one Roman Catholic; one of the Shakers; a good many societies 
of Quakers; many of the Cumberland Presbyterians; many of the 
New Lights, and fifty of the Presbyterian churches in connexion 
with the General Assembly. Of these churches, the writer has 
constituted eight, and one in Illinois, nine in all. And he has 
laboured in, and tried to cherish and strengthen many of the 
others. Sometimes he has administered the Lord's Supper 14 or 
16 times in a year, and not more than 4 of these in his own society. 
Through summer heat and rains — through winter cold, winds and 
snows, early and late, he has sought after the wandering sheep of 
his Saviour's flock. He has found them in the wilderness, gathered 
them into the fold, and fed them for Christ. For the last four 
years his travels in this service exceed 2000 miles a year. In one 
year he baptized 8 adults and 61 children, and received about 50 
persons into church-membership by examination. And why has 
he left this field? Just because the Lord has called him away, 
and bid him occupy in another. But he loves that field still. 
And he loves to direct others in the way to it. It is a field, long 
and broad and goodly. And many may find a place to labour 
there. Isaac Reed. 

Moriah, N. Y. March 21, 1827. 

No. V. 

I thought I had done with these numbers, but my last was 
written in a pressure of other things; and I found I had omitted 
to say any thing of the !*ospitality which abounds, and may be 



504 Early Travels in Indiana. 

considered as characteristical in Indiana. I have seen it in almost 
all parts of the State, in near a hundred different settlements; 
and I therefore believe it is general. Travelling expenses at the 
houses of entertainment, are low. But there is much of true 
hospitality ; such hospitality as I have rarely seen in the Northern 
States. There is much equality among the people, especially in 
country neighbourhoods. There is less absolute and suffering- 
poverty, than I have ever seen in so large a country; and a man 
is an idle and lazy fellow, if he does not soon get a farm of his 
own. There are very few who are rich; and it is not easy to get 
rich there. It is very easy to lay out money, but very difficult 
to get it back again. Money is scarce, and prices are low. Provi- 
sions for bread and meat are abundant; and the people seem to 
love the opportunity to have a neighbour or a stranger to be with 
them at their meals; and also to share with them the safety and 
the comforts of their house for the night. This hospitality may 
be found almost any time, but more especially at the times of 
large meetings — such as "a sacrament," with the Presbyterians — 
Quarterly and Camp-meetings with the Methodists — Associa- 
tions with the Baptists, and Camp-meetings with the Cumber- 
land Presbyterians. No one withholds going to any of these 
meetings, for fear of expense for himself or his horse. If he be 
not known in the neighbourhood, he is invited to some house as 
a stranger, and treated as a friend. Frequently five or six goto 
the same house, and they all seem as welcome as the members of 
the family. 

This leads me to disclose some customs about holding meet- 
ings, existing there, which may seem a peculiarity in the northern 
states. As the Presbyterians there are chiefly from the southern 
states, they have brought with them the customs of the Presby- 
terians of Virginia and Carolina; and these have brought them 
from the mother church in Scotland. One of these customs is, to 
have a sacramental meeting consist of several successive days, 
including a Sabbath. At this meeting it is common to have a 
plurality of ministers. It is in this way that the ministers keep 
up a system of exchange. You assist me, and I assist you in 
return. The meeting begins either Friday or Saturday, and 
closes Monday; — Sabbath is the communion. Preaching each 
day is at the same place, which is either a meeting-house, or a 
stand in some piece of woods; and often where there is a meeting- 
house, the house is so small, and the assembly so large, that they 
have to go to the woods. The congregation consists of the people 



Isaac Reed. 505 

of the congregation, where the meeting is held, and numbers, from 
others round about. One or two sermons is preached each day, 
and frequently some at night in neighbourhoods. On the Sabbath 
a sermon is preached before communion, called "the action ser- 
mon." Then the other minister rises and introduces the com- 
munion service according to the Directory. He then gives out 
the institution hymn; and as they are singing that, the ministers 
go to the table, and as many communicants as can sit on each 
side of it. The table is a long one. The minister who preached 
the sermon, sits at the table; and the other gives thanks and 
breaks and gives out the bread, and the cup. The ruling elders 
serve at the table. When all have received, another hymn is 
sung; and while singing, these withdraw, and the table fills again. 
Then the other minister serves, and the first communes. In like 
manner, if there are more ministers, and if there are more tables, 
till all are served. I have sometimes seen five settings: I have 
myself served at three, when no other minister was with me. 
Monday they assemble early, and dismiss about midday. This 
practice leads the Christians to know and love one another, all 
round a large tract of country, and cherishes this spirit and prac- 
tice of hospitality. When in missionary service, I have held 
sacramental meetings; I have sometimes seen members from six 
different Presbyterian churches, and all destitute. Some of these 
came 25, and others 30 miles, purposely to attend the meeting. 
In some cases, I have seen women who walked 10 miles, to be at 
such a meeting; one of these was a young woman, in 1823, who 
was awakened at the meeting; and the next year, at another 
similar meeting, I received her to communion. With the Metho- 
dists, their sacraments are held at their quarterly meetings, and 
their camp-meetings. The Cumberland Presbyterians, who are 
much like the Methodists in doctrines and manners, but who 
hold to the Presbyterian form of government, have their sacra- 
ments at camp-meetings. This is a young, but fast increasing 
sect. They have had being as denomination, only about sixteen 
years, and they have now 11 Presbyteries, and are very widely 
spread. They have lately founded a college in the lower parts 
of Kentucky. Their preachers travel upon circuits by two and 
two, like the Methodists. All these large meetings tend to extend 
the acquaintance of the Christians of the country, and to foster 
and continue the hospitality of the people. 

Isaac Reed. 
Moriah, N. Y. March 27, 1827. 



From Travels in North America in the years 1827 and 1828, 
by Captain Basil Hall [1829], Vol. III., pp. 386- 

388. 

Hall, Basil. 

Captain Hall, a British naval officer and writer, was recognized as one 
of the most widely travelled Englishmen of his day. He had not only visited 
the greater part of the British possessions, but in 1815, accompanied Lord 
Amherst on an expedition to China. In 1827 he made a tour of Canada and 
the United States, his object being "to see with my own eyes how far the 
sentiments prevalent in England with respect to that country (America) 
are correct or otherwise." The notes of his travels were published in 1829, 
and occasioned adverse criticism in the United States because of their out- 
spoken and somewhat supercilious comments. 

On the 27th of May, we entered the State of Indiana, where 
we found a very different sort of travelling from that we had met 
with in the delightful Prairies. The country is hilly nearly all 
the way, the roads execrable, and the carriages made as rigid as 
if they had been cast in one piece of metal. This is quite neces- 
sary, I admit, considering the duty they have to go through. 
One other refinement in these vehicles I must mention. In every 
other part of the Union we found at least one door, though very 
rarely two, in any stage-coach. But upon this occasion, where so 
large an opening was a weakness that could not be afforded, the 
passengers had nothing left for it — females as well as males — but 
literally to mount the coachman's seat by aid of the wheel, and 
then scramble in at the front as well as they might. The only 
one of our party who particularly relished this primitive method 
of stowage was the child, who was enchanted with the variety of 
traverses which she was exposed to before reaching the seats 
within. 

During this rugged journey, we were never exposed to those 
privations as to food that we had met with sometimes in the South, 
for provisions of all kinds were in abundance. I cannot say, 
however, that my observations go to confirm the accounts I have 
read of the intelligence, and highmindedness, as it is affectedly 
called, of the thinly scattered inhabitants of those new countries. 
I did not expect, indeed, to find any great polish of manners in 
the backwoods, but I must say, that although we met with no 
inhospitality, we encountered so many instances of coldness and 
gruffness, that I have no wish again to exchange the obligations 

(506) 



Basil Hall. 507 

and entanglements of civilisation for the selfish freedom of the 
forest. 

It is not that the inhabitants of those countries are ill-natured 
— quite the reverse — they seem always most willing to oblige 
when prompted so to do. But what I complain of is the want 
of habitual politeness — the spontaneous desire to be civil and 
useful. And I strongly suspect, that such is the inevitable con- 
sequence of people living far apart, and trusting exclusively to 
their own exertions for their support. The same class of things 
which limit the range of their good offices, limit also their means 
of acquiring knowledge, tend to rivet prejudices, and to augment 
ideas of self-importance. To talk, therefore, of people so circum- 
stanced, being possessed of any remarkable degree of intelligence, 
is to declare the existence of a moral or rather a political miracle, 
of which civil society presents no example. 

On the 29th of May, having passed through the State of 
Indiana, we recrossed the Ohio to Louisville in Kentucky. Next 
day we embarked in a steam-boat for Cincinnati in the State of 
Ohio, which we reached on the 31st, having occupied twenty- 
three hours in a passage of 150 miles, against the current. 



From A years 1 residence in the United States of America, 
by William Cobbett [1828], Part 3, pp. 276-292. 

COBBETT, WlLLiAM. 

Mr. Cobbett was by training a soldier and had spent several years in 
the English garrisons. But his "heart passion was to possess a farm and 
cultivate gardens." And in order to see just what could be accomplished in 
this line, he migrated to America in 1817 and settled on Long Island. There 
he spent one year, and undertook on a very extensive scale the art of garden- 
ing. He apparently achieved success, and found time to take several trips 
inland. His observations are interesting because they contain accounts of 
what the farmers and gardeners were actually doing, and not what they hoped 
to do. Mr. Cobbett was greatly interested in the possibilities he found here, 
but felt it necessary to return to his native country and re-enter the military 
service. 

June 16th.— Left Cincinnati for Louisville with seven other 
persons, in a skiff about 20 feet long and 5 feet wide. 

June 17th. — Stopped at Vevay, a very neat and beautiful 
place, about 70 miles above the falls of the Ohio. Our visit here 
was principally to see the mode used, as well as what progress 
was made, in the cultivation of the vine, and I had a double curi- 
osity, never having as yet seen a vineyard. These vineyards are 
cultivated entirely by a small settlement of Swiss, of about a 
dozen families, who have been here about ten years. They first 
settled on the Kentucky river, but did not succeed there. They 
plant the vines in rows, attached to stakes like espaliers, and 
they plough between with a one-horse plough. The grapes, 
which are of the sorts of Claret and Madeira, look very fine and 
luxuriant and will be ripe in about the middle of September. 
The soil and climate both appear to be quite congenial to the 
growth of the vine: the former rich and the latter warm. The 
north west wind, when it blows, is very cold, but the south, 
south east, and south west winds, which are always warm, are 
prevalent. The heat, in the middle of the summer, I understand, 
is very great, being generally above 85 degrees, and sometimes 
above 100 degrees. Each of these families has a farm as well as 
a vineyard, so that they supply themselves with almost every 
necessary and have their wine all clear profit. Their produce 
will this year be probably not less than 5000 gallons; we bought 
2 gallons of it at a dollar each, as good as I would wish to drink. 



William Cobbett. 509 

Thus it is that the tyrants of Europe create vineyards in this new 
country! 

June 18th. — Arrived at Louisville, Kentucky. The town is 
situated at the commencement of the falls, or rapids of the Ohio. 
The river, at this place, is little less than a mile wide, and the 
falls continue from a ledge of rocks which runs across the river 
in a sloping direction at this part, to Shipping-port, about 2 miles 
lower down. Perceiving stagnant waters about the town, and an 
appearance of the house that we stopped at being infested with 
bugs, we resolved not to make any stay at Louisville, but got 
into our skiff and floated down the falls to Shipping-port. We 
found it very rough floating, not to say dangerous. The river of 
very unequal widths and full of islands and rocks along this short 
distance, and the current very rapid, though the descent is not 
more than 22 feet. At certain times of the year the water rises 
so that there is no fall; large boats can then pass. 

At Shippingport, stopped at the house of Mr. Berthoud, a 
very respectable French gentleman, from whom we received the 
greatest civility during our stay, which was two nights and the 
day intervening. 

Shippingport is situated at a place of very great importance, 
being the upper extremity of that part of the river which is 
navigable for heavy steam-boats. All the goods coming from the 
country are reshipped, and every thing going to it is un-shipped, 
here. Mr. Berthoud has the store in which the articles exporting 
or importing are lodged: and is, indeed, a great shipper, though 
at a thousand miles from the sea. 

June 20th. — Left the good and comfortable house of Mr. 
Berthoud, very much pleased with him and his amible wife and 
family, though I differed with him a little in politics. Having 
been taught at church, when a boy, that the Pope was the whore 
of Babylon, that the Bourbons were tyrants, and that the Priests 
and privileged orders of France were impostors and petty tyrants 
under them, I could not agree with him in applauding the Bor- 
oughmongers of England for re-subjugating the people of France, 
and restoring the Bourbons, the Pope, and the Inquisition. 

Stop at New Albany, 2 miles below Shippingport, till the 
evening. A Mr. Paxton, I am told, is the proprietor of a great 
part of the town, and has the grist and saw-mills, which are 
worked by steam, and the ferry across the river. Leave this 
place in company with a couple of young men from the western 
part of the state of New York, who are on their way to Tennessee 



510 Early Travels in Indiana. 

in a small ferry boat. Their whole journey will, probably, be 
about 1,500 miles. 

June 21st. — Floating down the river, without any thing in 
particular occurring. 

June 22nd. — Saw a Mr. Johnstone and his wife reaping wheat 
on the side of the river. They told us they had come to this spot 
last year, direct from Manchester, Old England, and had bought 
their little farm of 55 acres of a back-woodsman who had cleared 
it, and was glad to move further westward, for 3 dollars an acre. 
They had a fine flock of little children, and pigs and poultry, and 
were cheerful and happy, being confident that their industry and 
economy would not be frustrated by visits for tithes or taxes. 

June 28rd. — See great quantities of turkey-buzzards and 
thousands of pigeons. Came to Pigeon Creek, about 230 miles 
below the Falls, and stopped for the night at Evansville, a town 
of nine months old, near the mouth of it. We are now frequently 
met and passed by large, fine steam-boats, plying up and down 
the river. One went by us as we arrived here which had left 
Shipping-port only the evening before. They go down the river 
at the rate of 10 miles an hour, and charge passengers 6 cents a 
mile, boarding and lodging included. The price is great but the 
time is short. 

June 24th. — Left Evansville. This little place is rapidly 
increasing, and promises to be a town of considerable trade. It 
is situated at a spot which seems likely to become a port for 
shipping to Princeton and a pretty large district of Indiana. I 
find that the land speculators have made entry of the most eligible 
tracts of land, which will impede the partial, though not the final, 
progress of population and improvement in this part of the state. 

On our way. to Princeton, we see large flocks of fine wild tur- 
keys, and whole herds of pigs, apparently very fat. The pigs are 
wild also, but have become so from neglect. Some of the inhabi- 
tants, who prefer sport to work, live by shooting these wild tur- 
keys and pigs, and indeed, sometimes, I understand, they shoot 
and carry off those of their neighbours before they are wild. 

June 25th. — Arrived at Princeton, Indiana, about twenty 
miles from the river. I was sorry to see very little doing in this 
town. They cannot all keep stores and taverns! One of the 
storekeepers told me he does not sell more than ten thousand 
dollars value per annum : he ought, then, to manufacture something 
and not spend nine tenths of his time in lolling with a segar in 
his mouth. 



William Cobbett. 511 

June 26th.- — At Princeton, endeavouring to purchase horses, 
as we had now gone far enough down the Ohio. While waiting 
in our tavern, two men called in armed with rifles, and made 
enquiries for some horses they suspected to be stolen. They told 
us they had been almost all the way from Albany, to Shawnee 
town after them, a distance of about 150 miles. I asked them 
how they would be able to secure the thieves, if they overtook 
them, in these wild woods; "0," said they, "shoot them off the 
horses." This is a summary mode of executing justice, thought 
I, though probably the most effectual, and, indeed, only one in 
this state of society. A thief very rarely escapes here; not nearly 
so often as in more populous districts. The fact was, in this case, 
however, we discovered afterwards, that the horses, had strayed 
away, and had returned home by this time. But, if they had been 
stolen, the stealers would not have escaped. When the loser is 
tired, another will take up the pursuit, and the whole country is 
up in arms till he is found. 

June 27th. — Still at Princeton. At last we get suited with 
horses. Mine costs me only 135 dollars with the bridle and sad- 
dle, and that I am told is 18 dollars too much. 

June 28th. — Left Princeton, and set out to see Mr. Birkbeck's 
settlement, in Illinois, about 35 miles from Princeton. Before 
we got to the Wabash we had to cross a swamp of half a mile 
wide; we were obliged to lead our horses, and walk up to the knees 
in mud and water. Before we got half across we began to think 
of going back; but there is a sound bottom under it all, and we 
waded through it as well as we could. It is, in fact, nothing but 
a bed of very soft and rich land, and only wants draining to be 
made productive. We soon after came to the banks of the great 
Wabash, which is here about half a mile broad, and as the ferry- 
boat was crossing over with us I amused myself by washing my 
dirty boots. Before we mounted again we happened to meet 
with a neighbour of Mr. Birkbeck's, who was returning home; 
we accompanied him, and soon entered into the prairie lands, up 
to our horses' bellies in fine grass. These prairies, which are 
surrounded with lofty woods, put me in mind of immense noble- 
men's parks in England. Some of those we passed over are called 
wet prairies, but, they are dry at this time of the year; and, as 
they are none of them flat, they need but very simple draining 
to carry off the water all the year round. Our horses were very 
much tormented with flies, some as large as the English horse-fly 
and some as large as the wasp; these flies infest the prairies that 



512 Early Travels in Indiana. 

are unimproved about three months in the year, but go away 
altogether as soon as cultivation begins. 

Mr. Birkbeck's settlement is situated between the two 
Wabashes, and is about ten miles from the nearest navigable 
water; we arrived there about sunset and met with a welcome 
which amply repaid us for our day's toil. We found that gentle- 
man with his two sons perfectly healthy and in high spirits: his 
daughters were at Henderson (a town in Kentucky, on the Ohio) 
on a visit. At present his habitation is a cabin, the building of 
which cost only 20 dollars; this little hutch is near the spot where 
he is about to build his house, which he intends to have in the 
most eligible situation in the priairie for convenience to fuel and 
for shelter in winter, as well as for breezes in summer, and will, 
when that is completed, make one of its appurtenances. I like 
this plan of keeping the old loghouse; it reminds the grand chil- 
dren and their children's children of what their ancestor has done 
for their sake. 

Few settlers had as yet joined Mr. Birkbeck; that is to say, 
settlers likely to become "society;'" he had labourers enough near 
him, either in his own houses or on land of their own joining his 
estate. He was in daily expectation of his friends, Mr. Flower's 
family, however, with a large party besides; they had just landed 
at Shawnee Town, about 20 miles distant. Mr. Birkbeck informs 
me he has made entry of a large tract of land, lying, part of it, 
all the way from his residence to the great Wabash; this he will 
re-sell again in lots to any of his friends, they taking as much of 
it and wherever they choose (provided it be no more than they 
can cultivate), at an advance which I think very fair and liberal. 

The whole of his operations had been directed hitherto (and 
wisely in my opinion) to building, fencing, and other important 
preparations. He had done nothing in the cultivating way but 
make a good garden, which supplies him with the only things that 
he cannot purchase, and, at present, perhaps, with more economy 
than he could grow them. He is within twenty miles of Harmony; 
in Indiana, where he gets his flour and all other necessaries (the 
produce of the country) and therefore employs himself much 
better in making barns and houses and mills for the reception 
and disposal of his crops, and fences to preserve them while 
growing, before he grows them, than to get the crops first. I have 
heard it observed that any American settler, even without a 
dollar in his pocket, would have had something growing by this 
time. Very true! I do not question that at all; for, the very 



William Cobbett. 513 

first care of a settler without a dollar in his pocket is to get some- 
thing to eat, and, he would consequently set to work scratching 
up the earth, fully confident that after a long summering upon 
wild flesh (without salt, perhaps,) his own belly would stand him 
for barn, if his jaws would not for mill. But the case is very 
different with Mr. Birkbeck, and at present he has need for no 
other provision for winter but about a three hundredth part of 
his fine grass turned into hay, which will keep his necessary horses 
and cows: besides which he has nothing that eats but such pigs 
as live upon the waste, and a couple of fine young deer (which 
would weigh, they say, when full grown, 200 lb. dead weight) that 
his youngest son is rearing up as pets. 

I very much admire Mr. Birkbeck's mode of fencing. He 
makes a ditch 4 feet wide at top, sloping to 1 foot wide at bottom, 
and 4 feet deep. With the earth that come out of the ditch he 
makes a bank on one side, which is turfed towards the ditch. 
Then a long pole is put up from the bottom of the ditch to 2 
feet above the bank; this is crossed by a sort pole from the other 
side, and then a rail is laid along between the forks. The banks 
were growing beautifully, and looked altogether very neat as 
well as formidable; though a live hedge (which he intends to have) 
instead of dead poles and rails, upon top, would make the fence 
far more effectual as well as handsomer. I am always surprised, 
until I reflect how universally and to what a degree, farming is 
neglected in this country, that this mode of fencing is not adopted 
in cultivated districts, especially where the land is wet, or lies 
low; for, there it answers a double purpose, being as effectual a 
drain as it is a fence. 

I was rather disappointed, or sorry, at any rate, not to find 
near Mr. Birkbeck's any of the means for machinery or of the 
materials for manufactures, such as the water-falls, and the min- 
erals and mines, which are possessed in such abundance by the 
states of Ohio and Kentucky, and by some parts of Pennsylvania. 
Some of these, however, he may yet find. Good water he has, 
at any rate. He showed me a well 25 feet deep, bored partly 
through hard substances near the bottom, that was nearly over- 
flowing with water of excellent quality. 

July 1st. — Left Mr. Birkbeck's for Harmony, Indiana. The 
distance by the direct way is about 18 miles, but, there is no 
road, as yet; indeed, it was often with much difficulty that we 
could discover the way at all. After we had crossed the Wabash, 
which we did at a place called Davis's Ferry, we hired a man to 



514 Early Travels in Indiana. 

conduct us some part of the way through the woods. In about 
a mile he brought us to a track, which was marked out by slips 
of bark being stipped off the trees, once in about 40 yards; he 
then left us and told us we could not mistake if we followed that 
track. We soon lost all appearance of the track, however, and 
of the "blazing" of the trees, as they call it; but, as it was useless 
to go back again for another guide, our only way was to keep 
straight on in the same direction, bring us where it would. Hav- 
ing no compass, this nearly cost us our sight, for it was just mid- 
day, and we had to gaze at the sun a long time before we dis- 
covered what was our course. After this we soon, to our great 
joy, found ourselves in a large corn field; rode round it, and came 
to Johnson's Ferry, a place where a Bayou (Boyau) of the Wabash 
is crossed. This Bayou is a run out of the main river round a 
flat portion of land, which is sometimes overflowed: it is part of 
the same river, and the land encompassed by it, an island. 
Crossed this ferry in a canoe, and got a ferry-man to swim our 
horses after us. Mounted again and followed a track which 
brought us to Blaek River, which we forded without getting wet, 
by holding our feet up. After crossing the river we found a man 
who was kind enough to shew us about half a mile through the 
woods, by which our journey was shortened five or six miles. 
He put us into a direct track to Harmony, through lands as rich 
as a dung-hill, and covered with immense timber; we thanked 
him, and pushed on our horses with eager curiosity to see this 
far-famed Harmonist Society. 

On coming within the precincts of the Harmonites we found 
ourselves at the side of the Wabash again; the river on our right 
hand, and their lands on our left. Our road now lay across a 
field of Indian corn, of, at the very least, a mile in width, and 
bordering the town on the side we entered; I wanted nothing 
more than to behold this immense field of most beautiful corn to 
be at once convinced of all I had heard of the industry of this 
society of Germans, and I found, on preceeding a little farther, 
that the progress they had made exceeded all my idea of it. 

The town is methodically laid out in a situation well chosen 
in all respects; the houses are good and clean, and have, each one, 
a nice garden well stocked with all vegetables and tastily orna- 
mented with flowers. I observe that these people are very fond 
of flowers, by the bye; the cultivation of them, and musick, are 
their chief amusements. I am sorry to see this, as it is to me a 
strong symptom of simplicity and ignorance, if not a badge of 



William Cobbett. 515 

their German slavery. Perhaps the pains they take with them 
is the cause of their flowers being finer than any I have hitherto 
seen in America, but, most probably, the climate here is more 
favourable. Having refreshed ourselves at the Tavern, where 
we found every thing we wanted for ourselves and our horses, 
and all very clean and nice, besides many good things we did 
not expect, such as beer, porter, and even wine, all made within 
the Society, and very good indeed, we then went out to see the 
people at their harvest, which was just begun. There were 150 
men and women all reaping in the same field of wheat. A beau- 
tiful sight! The crop was very fine, and the field, extending to 
about two miles in length, and from half a mile to a mile in width, 
was all open to one view, the sun shining on it from the West, 
and the reapers advancing regularly over it. 

At sun-set all the people came in, from the fields, work-shops, 
mills, manufactories, and from all their labours. This being their 
evening for prayer during the week, the Church bell called them 
out again in about 15 minutes, to attend a lecture from their 
High Priest and Law-giver, Mr. George Rapp. We went to 
hear the lecture, or, rather, to see the performance, for, it being 
all performed in German, we could understand not a word. The 
people were all collected in a twinkling, the men at one end of 
the Church and the women at the other; it looked something like 
a Quaker Meeting, except that there was not a single little child 
in the place. Here they were kept by their Pastor a couple of 
hours, after which they returned home to bed. This is the quan- 
tum of Church-service they perform during the week; but on 
Sundays they are in Church nearly the whole of the time from 
getting up to going to bed. When it happens that Mr. Rapp 
cannot attend, either by indisposition or other accident, the 
Society still meet as usual, and the elders (certain of the most 
trusty and discreet, whom the Pastor selects as a sort of assistants 
in his divine commission) converse on religious subjects. 

Return to the Tavern to sleep; a good comfortable house, well 
kept by decent people, and the master himself, who is very intelli- 
gent and obliging, is one of the very few at Harmony who can 
speak English. Our beds were as good as those stretched upon 
by the most highly pensioned and placed Boroughmongers, and 
our sleep, I hope, much better than the tyrants ever get, in spite 
of all their dungeons and gags. 

July 2nd.— Early in the morning, took a look at the manufac- 
turing establishment, accompanied by our Tavern-keeper. I 



516 Early Travels in Indiana. 

find great attention is paid to this branch of their affairs. Their 
principle is, not to be content with the profit upon the manual 
labour of raising the article, but also to have the benefit of the 
machine in preparing it for use. I agree with them perfectly, 
and only wish the subject was as well understood all over the 
United States as it is at Harmony. It is to their skill in this way 
that they owe their great prosperity; if they had been nothing 
but farmers, they would be now at Harmony in Pennsylvania, 
poor cultivators, getting a bare subsistence, instead of having 
doubled their property two or three times over, by which they 
have been able to move here and select one of the choicest spots 
in the country. 

But in noting down the state of this Society, as it now is, its 
origin should not be forgotten ; the curious history of it serves as 
an explanation to the jumble of sense and absurdity in the asso-- 
ciation. I will therefore trace the Harmonist Society from its 
outset in Germany to this place. 

The Sect has its origin at Wurtemberg in Germany, about 40 
years ago, in the person of its present Pastor and Master, George 
Rapp, who, by his own account, "Having long seen and felt the 
decline of the Church, found himself impelled to bear testimony 
to the fundamental principles of the Christian Religion; and, 
finding no toleration for his inspired doctrines, or for those who 
adopted them, he determined with his followers to go to that 
part of the earth, where they were free to worship God according 
to the dictates of their conscience." In other words (I suppose), 
he had long beheld and experienced the slavery and misery of 
his country, and, feeling in his conscience that he was born more 
for a ruler than for a slave, found himself imperiously called upon 
to collect together a body of his poor countrymen and to lead 
them into a land of liberty and abundance. However allowing 
him to have had no other than his professed views, he, after he 
had got a considerable number of proselytes, amounting to seven 
or eight hundred persons, among whom were a sufficiency of 
good labourers and artizans in all the essential branches of work- 
manship and trade, besides farmers, he embodied them into a 
Society, and then came himself to America (not trusting to Provi- 
dence to lead the way) to seek out the land destined for these 
chosen children. Having done so, and laid the plan for his route 
to the land of peace and Christian love, with a foresight which 
shows him to have been by no means unmindful to the temporal 
prosperity of the Society, he then landed his followers in separate 



William Cobbett. 517 

bodies, and prudently led them in that order to a resting place 
within Pennsylvania, choosing rather to retard their progress 
through the wilderness than to hazard the discontent that might 
arise from want and fatigue in traversing it at once. When they 
were all arrived, Rapp constituted them into one body, having 
every thing in common, and called the settlement Harmony. 
This constitution he found authorised by the passage in Acts, 
iv. 32, "And the multitude of them that believed were of one 
heart, and of one soul : neither said any of them that aught of the 
things be possessed was his own, but that they had all things com- 
mon." Being thus associated, the Society went to work, early 
in 1805, building houses and clearing lands, according to the 
order and regulations of their leader; but the community of stock, 
or the regular discipline, or the restraints which he had reduced 
them to, and which were essential to his project, soon began to 
thin his followers and principally, too, those of them who had 
brought most substance into -the society; they demanded back 
their original portions and set out to seek the Lord by themselves. 
This falling off of the society, though it was but small, compara- 
tively, in point of numbers, was a great reduction from their 
means; they had calculated what they should want to consume, 
and had laid the rest out in land; so that the remaining part were 
subjected to great hardships and difficulties for the first year or 
two of their settling, which was during the time of their greatest 
labours. However, it was not long before they began to reap 
the fruits of their toil, and' in the space of six or seven years their 
settlement became a most flourishing colony. During that short 
space of time they brought into cultivation 3,000 acres of land 
(a third of their whole estate), reared a flock of nearly 2,000 
sheep, and planted hop-gardens, orchards, and vineyards; built 
barns and stables to house their crops and their live stock, gran- 
aries to keep one year's produce of grain always in advance 
houses to make their cyder, beer, and wine in, and good brick or 
stone warehouses for their several species of goods; constructed 
distilleries, mills for grinding, sawing, making oil, and, indeed 
for every purpose, and machines for manufacturing their various 
materials for clothing and other uses; they had, besides, a store 
for retailing Philadelphia goods to the country, and nearly 100 
good dwelling-houses, of wood, a large stone-built tavern, and, as 
a proof of superabundance, a dwelling-house and a meeting-house 
(alias the parsonage and church) which they had neatly built of 
brick. And, besides all these improvements within the society, 



518 Early Travels in Indiana. 

they did a great deal of business, principally in the way of manu- 
facturing, for the people of the country. They worked for them 
with their mills and machines, some of which did nothing else, 
and their blacksmiths, tailors, shoe-makers, &c. when not 
employed by themselves, were constantly at work for their neigh- 
bours. Thus this everlastingly - at - work band of emigrants 
increased their stock before they quitted their first colony, to 
upwards of two hundred thousand dollars, from, probably not 
one fifth of that sum. What will not unceasing perseverance 
accomplish? But, with judgment and order to direct it, what 
in the world can stand against it!* 

In comparing the state of this society as it now is with what it 
was in Pennsylvania, it is just the same as to plan; the temporal 
and spiritual affairs are managed in the same way, and upon the 
same principles, only both are more flourishing. Rapp has here 
brought his disciples into richer land, and into a situation better 
in every respect, both for carrying on their trade, and for keep- 
ing to their faith; their vast extent of land is, they say, four feet 
deep of rich mould, nearly the whole of it, and it lies along the 
banks of a fine navigable river on one side, while the possibility 
of much interruption from other classes of Christians is effectually 
guarded against by an endless barricado of woods on the other 
side. Bringing the means and experience acquired at their first 
establishment, they have of course gone on improving and 
increasing (not in population) at a much greater rate. One of 
their greatest improvements, they tell me is the working of their 
mills and manufacturing machines by steam; they feel the advan- 
tage of this more and more every year. They are now preparing 
to build a steam boat; this is to be employed in their traffick with 
New Orleans carrying their own surplus produce and returning 
with tea, coffee, and other commodities for their own consump- 
tion, and to retail to the people of the country. I believe they 
advance, too, in the way of ornaments and superfluities, for the 
dwelling-house they have now built their pastor, more resembles 
a Bishop's Palace than what I should figure to myself as the hum- 
ble abode of a teacher of the "fundamental principles of the 
Christian Religion." 

The government of this society is by bands, each consisting 
of a distinct trade or calling. They have a foreman to each 
band, who rules it under the general direction of the society, the 

*A more detailed account of this society up to the year 1811, will be found in Mr. 
Mellishe's Travels, Vol. 2. 



William Cobbett. 519 

law-giving power of which is in the High Priest. He cannot, 
however make laws without the consent of the parties. The 
manufacturing establishment, and the mercantile affairs and 
public accounts are all managed by one person; he, I believe, is 
one of the sons of Rapp. They have a bank, where a separate 
account is kept for each person; if any one puts in money, or has 
put in money, he may on certain conditions as to time, take it 
out again. They labour and possess in common; that is to say, 
except where it is not practicable or is immaterial, as with their 
houses, gardens, cows and poultry, which they have to themselves, 
each family. They also retain what property each may bring on 
joining the concern, and he may demand it in case of leaving the 
society, but without interest. 

Here is certainly a wonderful example of the effects of skill, 
industry, and force combined. This congregation of far-seeing, 
ingenious, crafty, and bold, and of ignorant, simple, superstitious, 
and obedient, Germans, has shown what may be done. But their 
example, I believe, will generally only tend to confirm this free 
people in their suspicion that labour is concomitant to slavery 
or ignorance. Instead of their improvements, and their success 
and prosperity altogether, producing admiration, if not envy, 
they have a social discipline, the thought of which reduces these 
feelings to ridicule and contempt: that is to say, with regard to 
the mass; with respect to their leaders one's feelings are apt to 
be stronger. A fundamental of their religious creed ("restraining 
clause," a Chancery Lawyer would call it) requires restrictions 
on the propagation of the species; it orders such regulations as 
are necessary to prevent children coming but once in a certain 
number of years; and this matter is so arranged that, when they 
come, they come in little flocks, all within the same month, per- 
haps, like a farmer's lambs. The Law-giver here made a famously 
"restraining statute" upon the law of nature! This way of 
expounding law seems to be a main point of his policy; he by this 
means keeps his associates from increasing to an unruly number 
within, while more are sure not to come in from without; and, I 
really am afraid he will go a good way towards securing a monopoly 
of many great improvements in agriculture, both as to principle 
and method. People see the fine fields of the Harmonites, but, 
the prospect comes damped with the idea of bondage and celibacy. 
It is a curious society: was one ever heard of before that did not 
wish to increase! This smells strong of policy; some distinct view 
in the leaders, no doubt. Who would be surprised if we were to 



520 Early Travels in Indiana. 

see a still more curious society by and bye? A Society Sole! 
Very far from improbable, if the sons of Rapp (for he has children, 
nevertheless, as well as Parson Malthus) and the Elders were to 
die, it not being likely that they will renounce or forfeit their 
right to the common stock. We should then have societies as 
well as corporations vested in one person! That would be quite 
a novel kind of benefice! but, not the less fat. I question whether 
the associated person of Mr. Rapp would not be in possession of 
as fine a domain as many good things as the incorporated person 
of an Archbishop: nay, he would rival the Pope! But, to my 
journal. 

Arrive at Princeton in the evening; a good part of our road 
lay over the fine lands of the Harmonites. I understand, by the 
bye, that the title deeds to these lands are taken in the name of 
Rapp and of his associates. Poor associates: if they do but rebel! 
Find the same store-keepers and tavern-keepers in the same 
attitudes that we left them in the other day. Their legs only a 
little higher than their heads, and segars in their mouths; a fine 
position for business! It puts my friend in mind of the Roman 
posture in dining. 

July 3rd. — At Princeton all day. This is a pretty consider- 
able place; very good as to buildings; but is too much inland to 
be a town of any consequance until the inhabitants do that at 
home which they employ merchants and foreign manufacturers 
to do for them. Pay 1 dollar for a set of old shoes to my horse, 
half the price of new ones. 

Jidy 4th. — Leave Princeton; in the evening, reach a place very 
appropriately called Mud-holes, after riding 46 miles over lands 
in general very good but very little cultivated, and that little 
very badly; the latter part of the journey in company with a 
Mr. Jones from Kentucky. Nature is the agriculturist here; 
speculation instead of cultivation, is the order of the day amongst 
men. We feel the ill effects of this in the difficulty of getting oats 
for our horses. However, the evil is unavoidable, if it can be 
really called an evil. As well might I grumble that farmers have 
not taken possession as complain that men of capital have. 
Labour is the thing wanted, but, to have that money must come 
first. This Mud-holes was a sort of fort, not 4 years ago, for 
guarding against Indians, who then committed great depreda- 
tions, killing whole families often, men, women and children. 
How changeable are the affairs of this world! I have not met 
with a single Indian in the whole course of my route. 



William Cobbett. 521 

July 5th.— Come to Judge Chamber's, a good tavern; 35 miles. 
On our way, pass French Lick, a strong spring of water impreg- 
nated with salt and sulphur, and called Lick from its being resorted 
to by cattle for the salt; close by this spring is another still larger, 
of fine clear lime-stone water, running fast enough to turn a mill. 
Some of the trees near the Judge's exhibit a curious spectacle; a 
large piece of wood appears totally dead, all the leaves brown 
and the branches broken, from being roosted upon lately by an 
enormous multitude of pigeons. A novel sight for us, unaccus- 
tomed to the abundance of the back-woods! No tavern but this, 
nor house of any description, within many miles. 

July 6th. — Leave the Judge's, still in company with Mr. Jones. 
Ride 25 miles to breakfast, not sooner finding feed for our horses; 

this was at the dirty log-house of Mr. who has a large 

farm with a grist mill on it, and keeps his yard and stables ancle 
deep in mud and water. If this were not one of the healthiest 
climates in the world, he and his family must have died in all 
this filth. About 13 miles further, come to New Albany, where 
we stop at Mr. Jenkins's, the best tavern we have found in 
Indiana, that at Harmony excepted. 

July 7th. — Resting at New Albany. We were amused by 
hearing a Quaker-lady preach to the natives. Her first words 
were "All the nations of the earth are of one blood." "So," said I 
to myself, "this question, which has so long perplexed philoso- 
phers, divines and physicians, is now set at rest!" She proceeded 
to vent her rage with great vehemence against hireling priests and 
the trade of preaching in general, and closed with dealing out large 
portions of brimstone to the drunkard and still larger and hotter 
to those who give the bottle to drink. This part of her discourse 
pleased me very much and may be a saving to me into the bar- 
gain; for, the dread of everlasting roasting added to my love of 
economy will (I think) prevent me making my friends tipsy. A 
very efficacious sermon! 

July 8th.- — Jenkins's is a good tavern, but it entertains at a 
high price. Our bill was 6 dollars each for a day and two nights; 
a shameful charge. Leave New Albany, cross the Ohio, and pass 
through Louisville in Kentucky again, on our way to Lexington, 
the capital. Stop for the night at Mr. Netherton's, a good tav- 
ern. The land hitherto is good, and the country altogether 
healthy, if I may judge from the people who appear more cheer- 
ful and happy than in Indiana, always excepting Harmony. Our 
landlord is the picture of health and strength: 6 feet 4 inches 
high, weighs 300 lb. and not fat. 



From The Americans as they are; described in a tour 
through the valley of the Mississippi, by the author 
of "Austria as it is" [1828], pp. 31-42, 58-60, 66-71. 

Postel, Karl. (Pseudonym Charles Sealsfield) 

To the political thinkers of Europe, the period of the "twenties" during 
the last century witnessed a very important transition in our nat on's develop- 
ment. If we are to believe the contemporary accounts, the Europeans 
were taken by surprise when they read the significant warning couched in 
the Monroe Doctrine, issued in 1823. And when John Quincy Adams- gave 
it still greater force, a few observers began to inquire into the reason for this 
sudden" evolution of a world power. Many came to study our society and 
institutions first hand. Among them was one Karl Postel, who had travelled 
extensively over Central Europe, and had written a creditable work entitled 
"Austria as it is." His observations in America were confined largely to the 
region of the Ohio and Mississippi valleys. While his notes are somewhat 
brief, the reader can feel certain that they are his own, and his conclusions 
are drawn from actual experience. 

Vevay, in Indiana, became a settlement twenty years ago, by 
Swiss emigrants, who obtained a grant of land, equal to 200 
acres for each family, under the condition of cultivating the vine; 
they accordingly settled here, and laid out vineyards. The orig- 
inal settlers may have amounted to thirty; others joined them 
afterwards, and in this manner was founded the county town of 
New Switzerland, in Indiana, which consists almost exclusively 
of these French and Swiss settlers. They have their vineyards 
below the town, on the banks of the river Ohio. The vines, 
however, have degenerated, and the produce is an indifferent 
beverage, resembling any thing but claret, as it had been repre- 
sented. Two of them have attempted to cultivate the river 
hills, and the vineyards laid out there are rather of a better sort. 
The town is on the decline; it has a court-house, and two stores 
very ill supplied. The condition of these, and the absence of 
lawyers, are sure indications of the poverty of the inhabitants, if 
broken windows, and doors falling from their hinges, should 
leave any doubt on the subject; they are, however, a merry set 
of people, and balls are held regularly every month. In the 
evening arrived ten teams laden with fifty emigrants from Ken- 
tucky, going to settle in Indiana; their reasons for doing this 
were numerous. Although they had bought their lands in Ken- 
tucky twice over, they had to give them up a third time, their 

(522) 



Karl Postel. 523 

titles having proved invalid; but still they would have remained, 
had it not been for the insolent behaviour of their more wealthy 
neighbours, who, in consequence of these emigrants having no 
slaves, and being thus obliged to work for themselves, not only 
treated them as slaves, but even encouraged their own blacks to 
give them every kind of annoyance, and to rob them — for no 
other reason than their dislike to have paupers for neighbours. 

My landlord assured me that at least 200 wagons had passed 
from the Kentucky side, through Vevay, during the present sea- 
son, all full of emigrants, discouraged from continuing among 
these lawless people. 

The state of Indiana, which I had now entered, begins below 
Cincinnati, running down the big Miami westward to the big 
Wabash, which separates this country from the Illinois. To the 
south, it is bounded by the Ohio; to the north, by lake Michi- 
gan; thus extending from 37° 50" to 42° 10", north latitude; and 
from 7° 40", to 10° 47", west longitude. Like the state of Ohio, 
it belongs to the class coming within the range of the great valley 
of the Mississippi. It exhibits nearly the same features as the 
state of Ohio, with the exception, that it approaches nearer to 
the Mississippi than its eastern neighbour, and is the second slope 
of the eastern part of the valley of the Mississippi : it declines more 
than Ohio, being but 250 feet above lake Erie, and 210 feet above 
lake Michigan, which is one hundred feet less in elevation than 
the state of Ohio. Two ridges of mountains, or rather hills, 
traverse the country; the Knobs, or Silver-hills, running ten 
miles below Louisville, in a north-eastern direction, and the 
Illinois mountains appearing from the west, and running to the 
north-east, where they fall to a level with the high plains of lake 
Michigan. These hills have a perfect sameness. The climate is 
rather milder than that of Ohio. Cotton and tobacco are raised 
by the farmers in sufficient quantities for their home consump- 
tion. The growth of timber is the same as in Ohio. The vallies 
are interspersed with sycamores and beeches; and below the falls, 
with maples, and cotton and walnut-trees. The hills are covered 
with beech, sassafras, and logwood. This state, though not 
inferior to Ohio in fertility, and taken in general, perhaps, superior 
to it, has one great defect. It has no sufficient water commun- 
ication, and thus the inhabitants have no market for their 
produce. There is not in this state any river of importance, the 
Ohio which washes its southern borders excepted. A scarcity of 
money therefore is more severely felt here, than in any other 



524 Early Travels in Indiana. 

state of the Union. This want of inter-communication, added to 
the circumstance that the state of Ohio had already engrossed 
the whole surplus population from the eastern states, had a preju- 
dicial effect upon Indiana, its original population being in general 
by no means so respectable as that of Ohio. In the north-west 
it was peopled by French emigrants, from Canada; in the south, 
on the banks of the Ohio, and farther up, by Kentuckians, who 
fled from their country for debt, or similar causes. 

The state thus became the refuge of adventurers and idlers of 
every description. A proof of this may be seen in the character 
of its towns, as well as in the nature of the improvements that 
have been carried on in the country. The towns, though some of 
them had an earlier existence than many in Ohio, are, in point 
of regularity, style of building, and cleanliness, far inferior to 
those of the former state. The wandering spirit of the inhabi- 
tants seems still to contend with the principle of steadiness in the 
very construction of their buildings. They are mostly a rude 
set of people, just emerging from previous bad habits, from whom 
such friendly assistance as honest neighbours afford, or mutual 
intercourse and good will, can hardly be expected. The case is 
rather different in the interior of the country, and on the Wabash, 
the finest part of the state, where respectable settlements have 
been formed by Americans from the east. Wherever the latter 
constitute the majority, every necessary assistance may be 
expected. 

For adventurers of all descriptions, Indiana holds out allure- 
ments of every kind. Numbers of Germans, French, and Irish, 
are scattered in the towns, and over the country, carrying on the 
business of bakers, grocers, store, grog shops, and tavern keepers. 
In time, these people will become steady from necessity, and con- 
sequently prosperous. The number of the inhabitants of Indiana 
amounts to 215,000. Its admission into the Union as a sovereign 
state, dates from the year 1815 to 1816; its constitution differs in 
some points from that of Ohio, and its governor is elected for the 
term of three years. 

Madisonville, the seat of justice for Jefferson-county, on the 
second bank of the Ohio, fifty-seven miles above its falls, contains 
at present 180 dwelling-houses, a court-house, four stores, three 
inns, a printing office — with 800 inhabitants, most of them Ken- 
tuckians. The innkeeper of the tavern at which I alighted, does 
no credit to the character of this people. He was engaged for 
some time in certain bank-note affairs, which qualified him for an 



Karl Postel. 525 

imprisonment of ten years; he escaped, however, by the assistance 
of his legal friends, and of 1000 dollars. The opportunity of tes- 
tifying his gratitude to these gentlemen soon presented itself. 
One of his neighbours, a boatman, had the misfortune to possess 
a wife who attracted his attention. Her husband knowing the 
temper of the man, resolved to sell all he had, and to move down 
to Louisville. Some days before his intended departure, he met 
Sheets in the street, and addressed him in these words: "Mr. 
Sheets, I ought to chastise you for making such shameful pro- 
posals to my wife:" so saying, he gently touched him with his 
cane. Sheets, without uttering a syllable, drew his poniard, and 
stabbed him in the breast. The unfortunate husband fell, 
exclaiming, "Oh, God! I am a dead man!"- — "Not yet," said 
Sheets, drawing his poniard out of the wound, and running it a 
second time through his heart; "Now, my dear fellow, I guess we 
have done." This monster was seized and imprisoned, and his 
trial took place. His countrymen took, as might be expected, a 
great interest in his fate. With the assistance of 3000 dollars, he 
even this time escaped the gallows. I read the issue of the trial, 
and the summons of the jury, in the county paper of 1823, which 
was actually handed to me in the evening by one of the guests. 
But a more remarkable circumstance is, that the inhabitants con- 
tinue to frequent his tavern. At first they stayed away for some 
weeks; but in less than a month the affair was forgotten, and his 
house is now visited as before. 

The road from Madison to Charleston, leads through a fertile 
country, in some parts well cultivated. The distance from Madi- 
son is twenty-eight miles. It is the chief town of Clark county, 
and seems to advance more rapidly than Madison, the country 
about being prety well peopled, and agriculture having made 
more progress than in any part of the state through which I had 
travelled. I found it to contain 170 houses and 750 inhabitants, 
five well stored tradesmen's shops, a printing office, and four inns. 
The town is about a mile distant from the river, on a high plain. 
When I arrived, the court was going to adjourn, and I hastened 
to the court-house. The presiding judge and his two associate 
judges were in their tribune, and the parties seated on boards 
laid across the stumps of trees. One of the lawyers having con- 
cluded his speech, the defendant was called upon. The gentle- 
man in question, whom I took for a pedlar, stood close by my side 
in conversation with his party, holding in his hand half an apple, 
his teeth having taken a firm bite of the other half. At the 



526 Early Travels in Indiana. 

moment his name was called, he walked with his mouth full, up 
to the rostrum, and kept eating his apple with perfect indiffer- 
ence. "Well," interrupted the judge impatient of the delay; 
"what have you to say against the charge? You know it is high 
time to break up the court, and I must go home." The gentle- 
man at the bar now pocketted his apple, and having thus aug- 
mented the store of provision which he probably kept by him, 
looked as if he carried two knapsacks behind his coat. "It strikes 
me mightily" — was the exordium of this speech, which in point 
of elegance and conciseness was a true sample of back-wood 
eloquence. Fortunately the speaker took the judge's hint; in less 
than half an hour he had done — in less than one hour the jurymen 
returned a verdict, the county transactions were finished, and the 
court broke up. 

From Charleston to Louisville, the distance is fourteen miles. 
The lands are fertile. Several very well looking farms shew a 
higher degree of cultivation, especially near Jeffersonville. There 
the road turns into an extensive valley formed by the alluvions of 
the Ohio. Jeffersonville, the seat of justice for Floyd-county, 
three quarters of a mile above the falls of the Ohio, was laid out 
in 1802, and has since increased to 160 houses, among which are 
a bank, a Presbyterian church, a warehouse, a cotton manufac- 
tory, a court-house, and an academy, with a land office, for the 
disposal of the United States' lands. The commerce of the 
inhabitants, 800 in number, is of some importance, though checked 
by the vicinity of Louisville, and by the circumstance, that the 
falls on the Indiana side are not to be approached, except at the 
highest rise. Two miles below this town, is the village of Clarks- 
ville, laid out in 1783, and forming part of the grant made to 
officers and soldiers of the Illinois regiment. It contains sixty 
houses and 300 inhabitants. New Albany, a mile below Clarks- 
ville, has a thousand inhabitants, and a great deal of activity, 
owing to its manufactory of steam engines, its saw mills and the 
steam boats lying at anchor and generally repairing there. It is 
a place of importance, and though hitherto the resort of sailors, 
boatmen, and travellers, who go down the river in their own boats, 
it is annually on the increase. 

The Ohio is generally crossed above the falls at Jeffersonville. 
The sheet of water dammed up here by the natural ledge of rocks 
which forms the falls, expands to 5,230 feet in breadth. The falls 
of the Ohio, though they should not properly be called falls, can- 
not be seen when crossing the river, and the waters do not pour 



Karl Postel. 527 

like the falls of Niagara over an horizontal rock down a consider- 
able depth, but press through a rocky bed, about a mile long, 
which spreads across the river, and causes a decline of twenty- 
two feet in the course of two miles. When the waters are high, 
the rocks and the falls disappear entirely. Seen from Louisville 
at low water, they have by no means an imposing appearance. 
The majestic and broad river branches off into several small 
creeks, and assumes the form of mountain torrents forcing their 
way through the ledge of rocks. When the river rises, and only 
three islands are to be seen, the immense sheet of water rushing 
down the declivity at the rate of thirteen miles an hour, must 
afford a magnificent spectacle. At the time I saw it, the river 
was lower than it had been for a series of years. 

Troy, the seat of justice for Crawford county, in Indiana, was 
the first place we visited. It has a court-house, a printing-office, 
and about sixty houses. The inhabitants seem rather indolent. 
On our asking for apples, they demanded ten dollars for half a 
barrel; the price for a whole one in Louisville being no more than 
three dollars. We advised them to keep their apples, and to 
plant trees, which would enable them to raise some for them- 
selves; and to put panes of glass in their windows, instead of old 
newspapers. The surrounding country is beautiful and fertile. 
Farms, however, become more scarce, and are in a state of more 
primitive simplicity. A block cabin not unlike a stable, with as 
many holes as there are logs in it, patches of ground planted with 
tobacco, sweet potatoes, and some corn, are the sole ornaments 
of these back-wood mansions. We purchased, below Troy, half 
a young bear, at the rate of five cents per pound. Two others 
which were skinned, indicated an abundance of these animals, 
and more application to the sport than seems compatible with 
the proper cultivation of these regions. The settlers have some- 
thing of a savage appearance: their features are hard, and the 
tone of their voice denotes a violent disposition. Our French- 
man was bargaining for a turkey, with the farmer's son, an ath- 
letic youth. On being asked three dollars for it, the Frenchman 
turned round to Mr. B., saying: "I suppose the Kentuckians take 
us for fools." "What do you say, stranger," replied the youth, 
at the same time laying his heavy hand across the shoulders of 
the poor Frenchman, in rather a rough manner. The latter 
looked as if thunderstruck, and retired in the true style of the 
Great Nation, when they get a sound drubbing. We remarked 
on his return, the pains he took to repress his feelings at the 



528 Early Travels in Indiana. 

coarseness of the Kentuckians. He was, however, discreet enough 
to keep his peace, and he did very well; but his spirit was gone, 
and he never afterwards undertook to make a bargain, except 
with old women, for a pot of milk, or a dozen of eggs, &c. 

About a hundred and fifty houses, built on the Swabian plan, 
with the exception of Mr. Rapp's former residence — a handsome 
brick house — presented themselves to our view. We were intro- 
duced to one of the managers, a Mr. Shnee, formerly a Lutheran 
minister, who entered very soon into perticulars respecting Mr. 
Owen's ulterior views, in rather a pompous manner. This set- 
tlement, which is about thirty miles above the mouth of the big 
Wabash, in Indiana, was first established by Rapp, in the year 
1817, and was now (in the year 1823), purchased by Mr. Owen, 
of Lanark, for the sum of 150,000 dollars. The society is to be 
established on a plan rather different from the one he has pursued 
in Scotland, and on a larger scale. Mr. Owen has, it is said, the 
pecuniary means as well as the ability to effect something of impor- 
tance. A plan was shown and sold to us, according to which a 
new building of colossal dimensions is projected; and if Mr. Owen's 
means should not fall short of his good will, this edifice would 
certainly exhibit the most magnificent piece of architecture in 
the Union, the capitol at Washington excepted. This palace, 
when finished, is to receive his community. According to his 
views, as laid down in his publications, in the lectures held by 
him at Washington and at New York, and as stated in the verbal 
communications of the persons who represent him, he is about 
to form a society, unshackled by all those fetters which religion, 
education, prejudices, and manners have imposed upon the 
human species; and his followers will exhibit to the world the 
novel and interesting example of a community, which, laying 
aside every form of worship and all religious belief in a supreme 
being, shall be capable of enjoying the highest social happiness 
by no other means than the impulse of innate egotism. It has 
been the object of Mr. Owen's study to improve this egotism in 
the most rational manner, and to bring it to the highest degree 
of perfection; and in this sense he has published the Constitu- 
tion, which is to be adopted by the community. It is distributed, 
if I recollect rightly, into three subdivisions, with seventy or 
more articles. — Mechanics of every description — people who have 
learned any useful art, — are admitted into this community. 
Those who pay 500 dollars, are free from any obligation to work. 
The time of the members is divided between working, reading, 



Karl Postel. 529 

and dancing. A ball is given every day, and is regularly attended 
by the community. Divine service, or worship of any kind, is 
entirely excluded; in lieu of it, moreover, a ball is given on Sun- 
day. The children are summoned to school by beat of drum. 
A newspaper is published, chiefly treating of their own affairs, 
and of the entertainments and the social regulations of the com- 
munity, amounting to about 500 members, of both sexes, com- 
posed almost exclusively of adventurers of every nation, who 
expect joyful days. The settlement has not improved since the 
purchase, and there appeared to exist the greatest disorder and 
uncleanliness. This community has since been dissolved as was 
to have been expected. The Scotchman seems to have a very 
high notion of the power of egotism. He is certainly not wrong 
in this point; but if he intends to give still greater strength to a 
spirit which already works with too much effect in the Union, it 
may be feared that he will soon snap the cords of society asunder. 
According to his notions, and those of his people, all the legis- 
lators of ancient and modern times, religious as well as political, 
were either fools or impostors, who went in quest of prosperity 
on a mistaken principle, which he is now about to correct. Scotch- 
men, it is known, are sometimes liable to adopt strange notions, 
in which they always deem themselves infallible. I am acquainted 
with an honorable president of the quarter-sessions, who, as a 
true Swedenborghian, is fully convinced that he will preside again 
as judge in the other world, and that the German farmers will be 
there the same fools they are here, who he may continue to cheat 
out of their property. Great Britain has no cause to envy the 
United States this acquisition. We stayed at this place about 
two hours, crossed the Wabash, and took the road to Shawnee- 
town, through part of Mr. Birkbeck's settlement. The country 
is highly cultivated, and the difference between the steady Eng- 
lishman of the Illinois side, and the rabble of Owen's settlement, 
is clearly seen in the style and character of the improvements 
carried on. 



From Remarks made on a tour to Prairie du Chien, 1829, 
by Caleb Atwater [1831], p. 205. 

Atwater, Caleb. 

Caleb Atwater is best known as Ohio's First Historian. He was one of 
the most versatile men produced in the old northwest: minister, lawyer, 
educator, legislator and antiquarian. He was born in Massachusetts in 1778, 
graduated from Williams College, came west when thirty-seven years old, 
and settled in Circleville, Ohio. Always public spirited, he supported im- 
provements of every nature, and personally urged a system of public educa- 
tion. 

He was the best informed man of his age on western antiquities and 
archeology. His knowledge extended over many years of investigation 
made from New York to the Mississippi River. 

In May 1829, President Jackson appointed Atwater as one of the three 
commissioners to treat with the Winnebago Indiana on the upper Mississippi. 
While on this trip, Mr. Atwater kept a personal diary of all his observations, 
and from these, the following extracts are taken. 

VINCENNES 

Stands on the east bank of the Wabash, surrounded by fertile 
lands. It is an old town, for the western country, having been 
settled about the same time with St. Louis, Rock Island, Prairie 
du Chien, and Kaskaskia, as I have already stated in a former 
page. Vincennes contains more than fifteen hundred people, 
who certainly appear very well to a stranger. The houses were 
mostly new ones, and everything I saw here made a very favorable 
impression. I tarried at Clark's Hotel, and take a pleasure in 
recommending the house to other travellers. 

Leaving this beautiful town in the stage for Louisville, I 
reached that town in two days. The first twenty miles from 
Vincennes, was over a good road and through a delightful country 
—the remainder of the rout was over as undulating a surface as 
I ever saw. 

Indiana is rapidly setling with an excellent population. The 
face of the country is undergoing a change in its external appear- 
ance — the forest is disappearing before the industrious husband- 
man — the state of society, considering the newness of the country, 
is good, and in numbers, wealth and improvements of all kinds, 
Indiana is only ten, or at most, only about twelve years behind 
Ohio. Next to the latter, Indiana is most rapidly improving of 

(530) 



Caleb Atwater. 531 

any western state, at this moment. To any one emigrating from 
the Atlantic states westwardly, though Ohio would best suit him, 
in all respects, yet Indiana is decidedly next in advantages of all 
sorts. The soil and climate are about the same in both states — 
the people nearly the same, and their interests, feelings and views, 
precisely the same. These states may be considered as Pennsyl- 
vania and Maryland, extended from the Atlantic ocean to the 
Wabash river. They are one and the same people, and so may 
they ever act and feel towards each other, in Congress — at home 
and abroad. 



From Personal Reminiscences of Charles F. Coffin, of 
Wayne County, Indiana, from 182 A to 1833. 

Coffin, Charles F. 

Charles F. Coffin was born in North Carolina in 1823. He was brought 
by his parents to Wayne County, Indiana, in 1824, and resided in that county 
for sixty years. He died in Chicago, Illinois, August 9, 1916. 

He was a man of unusual ability. For twenty-seven years he was 
Clerk of Indiana Yearly Meeting of Friends. He was a prominent banker 
and was closely associated with his friend, Governor Oliver P. Morton, in 
the financial affairs of the state during the Civil War. He was offered the 
position of Commissioner of Indian affairs under President Grant, and after- 
ward Comptroller of Currency, but he declined both. He was a pioneer in 
prison reform and was one of the originators of the Woman's Prison of 
Indiana. 

He possessed a very clear, accurate, historical mind, and wrote a number 
of valuable historical articles pertaining to local history. 

I was brought by my parents to Wayne County in 1824. As 
I was only one year old, of course I can give no personal recollec- 
tions at that early date,, but I have a very distinct recollection 
of the latter part of this period mentioned in this letter. 

The County was comparatively new, although settlements 
had been made in most parts of it and in some places for a good 
many years. There was a large emigration from North and South 
Carolina, especially of Friends, who settled in different parts of 
the County. The main body of them at Richmond and immedi- 
ate vicinity; others at Fountain City in the north part of the 
County; others at Economy in the northwest part of the County 
and others in the neighborhood of Milton in the west part of the 
County and a few in the vicinity of Centerville in the central part 
of the County. Large improvements were made at all these 
places. There was also considerable emigration from Kentucky 
and Tennessee which settled principally in the southeast and 
central parts of the county. Very few New England or Eastern 
people were amongst these early emigrants. The country in my 
first recollections was still thickly wooded except small clearings 
around each homestead and the woods were grown up with under- 
brush and vines of various kinds. 

The wild animals had principally been exterminated before 
my recollection and there were no Indians in the County. Some 
of them frequently visited the county in the earliest settlements, 

(532) 



Charles F. Coffin. 533 

but it is not known that any of them ever permanently resided 
within its limits. The houses of the new settlers were of their 
own build; — at first Cabins, succeeded then by small hewed log 
houses interspersed occasionally with cheap frame buildings which 
ultimately took the place of the others. The streams were nearly 
double the size that they are at present, during most of the year, 
large reservoirs of water in the woods and swamps furnishing a 
continued supply to keep their volume up. The clearing up of 
the country has caused great change in this respect and reduced 
the size of the streams most of the year, but causes them to swell 
very largely during freshets and heavy rains. The first settlers 
had very few comforts and lived in an exceedingly rough and 
simple way, mostly upon Hog and Hominy and upon corn bread, 
as corn was raised the first thing after the clearing of a piece of 
ground. Along all the streams were soon built small mills which 
supplied the local demands of the community and also saw mills 
which furnished lumber for improvements. There was a vast 
amount of fine walnut timber, especially in the bottom of the 
west fork of Whitewater River, where my father first settled, near 
what is now the town of Milton. This timber was used lavishly 
because it was easily split into rails and greatly wasted. In sub- 
sequent years it became exceedingly valuable and every remain- 
ing tree was carefully protected until a market was found for it. 
The early settler was generally of the younger and vigorous class 
of people, but there was much sickness; chills and fever and 
severe fevers prevailed, especially along the water courses. 
There are no records of the mortality but there is no doubt that 
it was very great and in many instances great suffering ensued 
from the want of proper medical treatment and care and of proper 
food. I remember well of hearing my Father speak of a severe 
attack of fever which he had when living in a cabin on the bank 
of the West Fork of the Whitewater River which came very 
nearly taking his life, and the great difficulty experienced by my 
Mother when recovery commenced in getting anything suitable 
for a fever patient to eat. The difficulty connected with the 
terrific labor involved in clearing the trees from a new country 
and opening farms was vigorously and cheerfully met by the set- 
tlers. Great personal kindness abounded; they assisted each 
other in every way possible. There was a great deal of traveling 
through the community of persons out in search of homes. Hotels 
were not much known and every private house was opened freely 
to the traveler. There was no roads except as trees were cut 



534 Early Travels in Indiana. 

away by the first settlers. The streams were unbridged and 
often impassable, always during a freshet and as the roads were 
largely shaded they remained wet a great deal of the years and 
became almost impassable at times — a large proportion of that 
time they were muddy and disagreeable to travel over. There 
were very few, if any carriages in the county in these days. The 
people rode on horseback mostly, or in their wagons. During 
the latter part of the time the comforts of the community 
increased, farms became better opened and roads were somewhat 
improved though still very bad. Merchants established little 
stores at various points where they kept a few drygoods and 
groceries. Some of the towns had commenced growing and 
improvements were increasing in them. A few brick houses were 
erected but not many until after the period mentioned. All of 
the groceries and drygoods used had to be hauled in wagons from 
Cincinnati, a distance of 60 to 70 miles and large four horse 
wagons passed over the route frequently occupying three or four 
four days in the passage. Salt and other necessaries were brought 
in the same way. Products of the farms were driven to market, 
such as hogs, cattle etc. Cincinnati was the great commercial 
point of the whole country. Orchards had been planted and in 
many places were bearing fine crops of fruit, especially of apples. 
The fresh virgin soil produced a very fine article of fruit. 

There were but few schools and no general public school sys- 
tem. A teacher was employed for three months of the year and 
such children as could be spared from home were sent to him. 
They were of a primitive kind and not of the highest type but 
very useful in their results. In the neighborhood of Friends it 
was made a special point to open what was called "A Friend's 
School," and they were kept at all the meeting places in the 
county. There were different religious denominations which 
mostly located by a kind of natural affinity near to each other, 
Methodist, Baptist, Presbyterian etc. The pioneer preachers of 
the county, however, were Methodists who spread over the 
whole land. They traveled on horseback and lived with the 
people in their method of life and were indefatigable in establish- 
ing churches and elevating the people. Their influence was 
exceedingly good. In other places where there were no special 
religious influences there grew up a class of people who disre- 
garded the Sabbath, attended no place of worship and their 
children mostly became a very undesirable part of the community. 



Charles F. Coffin. 535 

The mails were carried first on horseback, then in small 
wagons or carriages, during the muddy season of the year were 
taken with great difficulty through the land. Postage was from 
six and one-quarter cents to twenty-five counted in Spanish coin 
which was the current coin of the country at the time, namely, 
6|, 12^ and 25 cents. But money was exceedingly scarce 
and the settlers managed to do with a great deal less than would 
be possible at the present time. 



From Diary and Recollections of Victor Colin Duclos. 
Copied from the original manuscript by Mrs. Nora 
C. Fretageot, New Harmony, Ind. 

Duclos, Victor Colin. 

Mr. Duclos came from France in 1823 at the age of five. In his recol- 
lections he describes his attendance at William Maclure's school in Phila- 
delphia, the visit of Lafayette, and his departure for New Harmony to join 
the Owen colony in 1825. From Pittsburgh to Mt. Vernon, Ind., the trip 
was made by the Ohio River and the company is known as the "Boat load 
of knowledge." The passenger list included the names of Thomas Say, 
Charles A. Lesueur, Robert Dale Owen, Gerald Troost, Joseph Neff and 
Madame Fretageot. The account of New Harmony life is brought down 
to the year 1834. 

I am a native of France and was born in Paris, May 22, 1818. 
I left there in the early part of the year 1823 with my aunt, 
Madam Marie D. Fretageot, to attend a School of Industry 
established by Mr. William Maclure in Philadelphia, Pa. We 
started from Havre in a sailing vessel in March, 1823, and were 
six weeks on the voyage. On board this vessel, who intended 
to make this school their home, were Madam Fretageot, her son 
Achilles E. Fretageot, a Swiss named Balthazar, Charles A. 
Lesueur, two French students, my brother, Peter L. Duclos, 
myself and several others. We arrived in New York in May, 
and went to Philadelphia in June.- The school house was situ- 
ated on the Schuylkill road about one mile from the city. It was 
a large fine brick building with a very large arched door in the 
centre. Surrounding the school building, were the most beau- 
tiful pleasure ground immaginable. This was William Maclure's 
"School of Industry." 

In the year 1824, while at this school in Philadelphia, General 
Lafayette made his last visit to the United States. He visited 
our school, and in his review, all of us marched in single file in 
front of him, and he gently laid his hand on our heads and told 
us to be good boys. General Lafayette was a man about 5 ft. 
9 in. in highth and spare built. His hair was long and very gray. 
He wore a black broadcloth frock coat. If the Almighty God 
should have dropped into the city at that time he could not have 
been more highly worshipped than was General Lafayette. This 

(536) 



Victor Colin Duclos. 537 

was about 76 years ago, and I imagine that I can to this day 
feel the gentle tap on my head from that noble man. 

In the year 1824, Mr. Robert Owen, a gentleman from Scot- 
land, purchased all of the interests of the Rapp Society in Posey 
County, Indiana, including the town of Harmonie where he, in 
a short time, founded the noted Owen Community. Somewhat 
later than this, William Maclure bought an interest in the prop- 
erty and concluded to remove his School of Industry to New Har- 
mony from Philadelphia. Therefore the early part of the year 
1825 was occupied in building a large keel boat at Pittsburgh, 
Pa. This boat being well fitted with rooms and otherwise properly 
arranged for the comfort of the passengers and crew, we moved 
to Pittsburgh by means of wagons and carriages. The boat con- 
tained the leading members of talent of the school, and was 
therefore styled the Boat load of knowledge, and named the 
Philanthropist. 

In the fall of the year 1825 we started from Pittsburgh down 
the Ohio River to Mt Vernon, Ind. from thence to New Har- 
mony. As well as I can remember the names of those on the 
boat, with incidental remarks concerning them, are about as 
follows:— 

Madam Fretageot and son, A. E. Fretageot, Allan Ward, 
Mark Penrose, Phiquepal d' Arusmont — who afterwards married 
Francer Wright — Charles A. Lesueur, artist and naturalist, 
Thomas Say, naturalist, M. Chase, chemist, Mrs Chase, artist 
and musician, Cornelius Tiebout, artist and engraver, Miss Lucy 
Sistaire, and two sisters — Miss Lucy afterwards married Thomas 
Say- — Virginia Dupalais and her brother, John Beal, wife and 
daughter Caroline — baby — William Maclure, Captain McDonald 
of the Isles, Balthazar, a Swiss, Charles Falque, Amedie Dufour, 
Peter L. Duclos, Victor C. Duclos, Miss Tiebout, age 10, — last 
five pupils of Phiquepal — Mr. Speakman and family, Robert 
Dale Owen, Gerard Troost, chemist and geologist, Robert Owen 
came part way with them. Mme. Fretageot was employed by 
Mr. Maclure to superintend the school, while the scientific gen- 
tlemen and some of the others were professors in the new School 
of Industry he was to establish at New Harmony 

Cincinnati was the first place of importance at which we 
landed. There was at that time very few buildings between 
3d street and the river. We traveled very slowly for the reason 
that we did not run the boat nights, and many delays were occa- 
sioned by the wind being too high for our boat to be handled. 



538 Early Travels in Indiana. 

During the trip while the boat was thus delayed, many of the 
party would spend their time in hunting, fishing and in scientific 
investigations. Fish and game abounded, so that a large portion 
of our subsistance was derived from these sources. 

On reaching Louisville the weather was very windy and cold. 
Here we stopped for some time in order to find a "Falls pilot", to 
buy provisions, etc. In passing over the Falls we had a narrow 
escape from wrecking the boat. Soon after leaving Louisville, 
the ice came rushing down the river and pushed the boat out into 
the woods. Here we were compelled to stay three or four weeks. 
One of our party while out hunting broke his leg by falling off a 
rail fence, and two of the French students broke through the ice 
while skating and came near drowning. As soon as possible after 
the ice broke up, we launched our boat and continued our journey. 

About the middle of January, 1826, we arrived at Evansville. 
At that time it was but little more than a flat-boat landing, the 
settlement consisting of a few small log cabins. On our arrival 
at Mt Vernon about the last week in January, 1826, we were 
transferred by wagons. Thus we finally reached our destination 
on the scene of the former home of the Rapp Society, the home 
of the new Owen Community, and the location of our new School 
of Industry. 

To give some idea of the value and importance of the property 
belonging to the Rapp Society previous to the sale of Mr. Robert 
Owen, it is necessary to describe in detail the territory and the 
great amount of improvements, in building and in the productive 
and manufacturing interests of the society in the town and 
vacinity. During their occupancy, considering the short time in 
which this vast amount of work was performed the results were 
remarkable. Coming in 1814 and removing in 1824-5, begin- 
ning in the unbroken forest, in the short space of ten years they 
cleared about 4000 acres of land, built the town, containing com- 
fortable homes of brick and frame, large granaries of wood and 
stone, oil mills, grist mills, sawmills, distilleries, and factories for 
the various branches of manufactures they engaged in. 

The property consisted of about 3,000 acres of land surround- 
ing and including the town site. This being on what is called 
the second bottom, a narrow strip of lower land between it and 
the river and stretching out into a wide low valley to the north, 
a range of hills on the south and east, and the low land of the 
Cut-off River to the west. Judging from the location of the 
principal buildings, the town was laid off in the form of a square, 



Victor Golin Duclos. 539 

bordered by North, South, East and West Streets. The Main 
Street extended from the entrance of the Mt. Vernon wagon road 
to the foot of the hills north to North Street, with a wagon road 
from thence to the ferry landing on the Wabash River. One 
square west of Main Street was west Street, and to the east were 
Brewery and East Streets. The principal street leading east and 
west was Church Street, connecting on the east with the wagon 
road leading to Princeton and Evansville. North of Church 
were Granary and North Streets, to the south, Tavern, Steam 
Mill, and South Streets. The streets were named from the loca- 
tions and after the buildings situated thereon. Thus Church St. 
from the old German Church, the old Fort or granary gave its 
name to Granary St. Brewery St. from the brewery, and so on. 

In the town and surrounding suburbs there were a great many 
rudely constructed log cabins which were the homes of these 
industrious people in the first years of the settlement, many 
without floors and undoubtedly built for temporary use while 
the more substantial buildings were being erected. In the town 
limits were constructed about twenty substantial two story brick 
buildings, which with a few exceptions were built east and west 
on the corners of the blocks. There were about the same number 
of frame buildings two stories in heighth. The dwelling houses 
both frame and brick were built after the same design with the 
door opening into the yard, the houses being on the line of the 
streets, making the corners of the blocks. Most of the houses 
are still in use though the majority have been remodeled. 

On the west of Brewery, between Church and Granary Sts. 
was a one story frame building about 30 x 60 ft. which was 
used as a hospital, now in use as a warehouse. On the north 
west corner of Main and Tavern streets was the Rapp Tavern, 
a two story frame about 30 x 60 ft fronting on Main Street. 
In the rear of this on Tavern Street was a two story brick of 
about the same dimensions. On the north of the brick was a 
large double porch in which was located the stairway for both 
buildings. In after years this property was used for many pur- 
poses and was known as the "White House," the upper and rear 
parts being used as a tenament house, now known as the Monitor 
Saloon, but in the early history of the town it was called the 
"Yellow Tavern". (Burned Aug. 1908) 

Within the block east of Main and between Tavern and Church 
Sts, was a two story brick about 40 x 60 ft. built east and west, 
and within the block south of this was a building about 30 x 40 



540 Early Travels in Indiana. 

(still in use. 1902), the first story of stone, the second of brick. 
On the corner of Church and Brewery Sts. was a large frame 
livery stable. On the south east corner of Main and Church 
Sts. was a pit for whip-sawing the lumber first used in the con- 
struction of the buildings. These buildings were mostly used as 
dwellings for single families. 

For school buildings the larger buildings were used. In 
reference to a class of buildings of special note that were num- 
bered from 1 to 5, it is not definitely known what purpose they 
were constructed for. A study of position and internal arrange- 
ment, surroundings, etc. will offer some suggestions as to their use. 

No. 1 stood east of West Street on the corner of West and 
Steam Mill Streets (N.E.) was a two story brick about 40 x 70 
ft. with a hallway on both floors, the whole length of the build- 
ing. Contained sixteen large rooms. 

No. 2, on the east side of Main between Church and Granary 
"Str. was a three story brick 40 x 70 ft. with a kind of mansard 
roof, two stories of brick and the third formed by the mansard 
roof. The entrance was on an alley opening into a hall extending 
from end to end, with rooms on both sides in each story opening 
into the hallways. East of this was a large building used for a 
kitchen. 

No. 3 was situated about the center of the block on the south 
side of Church, between Main and Brewery Sts. similar in size 
and construction to No. 1. It is built off the line of the street 
about ten feet. Runs north and south, the entrance on Church 
Street. 

No. 4, same as No. 1-3, on Church Street, North side between 
brewery and East Street. 

No. 5 was the home of George Rapp, the founder of the 
society. It was located on the Northwest corner of Church and 
Main Streets, about 30 feet back from both streets. It was of 
brick, two stories in highth, with a one story ell on the west. 
The foundation was about four feet in highth, of dressed sand- 
stone. A porch or verandah extended the whole length on the 
south and east sides, with large stone steps to each entrance. 
On each floor there were large halls leading east and west. This 
building was destroyed by fire about the year 1842, (1844), 
supposed to have been the work of an incendiary. 

A few feet north of No. 5 was a large oak tree. Tradition 
tells us that this spot was the camping ground of those members 
of the society who were the first to spend the night in this locality, 



Victor Colin Duclos. 541 

and ever after during their residence here, it was a favorite spot 
for the society band to meet and discourse sweet music. 

The place of worship during the last few years of their resi- 
dence here was a building constructed from plans of George Rapp 
and conceived by him in a dream. This was a two story brick 
building constructed in the year 1822, but the internal arrange- 
ment was never carried out. It stood on the northwest part of the 
block on Church Street between Main and West Streets. It was 
planned so that the interior at the pulpit represented a large cross. 
The dimensions of the centre square was about 40 feet, and each 
wing the same. (Mr. Dransfield has written in parenthesis 
"This is not exact as the wings were 50 feet in width, and the 
interior square was about 70 feet each way.") The centre roof 
was supported by four columns about eighteen inches in diameter 
and twenty-five feet in highth (really two feet in diameter), each 
turned by hand from one stick of timber, of cherry, poplar, or 
walnut. These columns stood on a large moulded base of the 
same wood, about forty feet in highth from the foundation. In 
the centre of the building was a large dome, encircling which was 
a balcony at times used as a band stand. The entrances to each 
wing were large stone foundations with the semi-circular stone 
steps. The second and third steps were moulded on the edge. 
The north door, which was the principal entrance, was of cherry. 
The doorway was of carved stone capped by a cornice terminat- 
ing in a gable in the panel of which was carved a rose, gilded, 
with a reference to it taken from the Bible, carved in the stone. 
The other doorways were also of stone but more simply finished. 

The old church built about 1815 stood east of this on the same 
lot and was a two story frame with six large arched windows on 
the sides, and two in the end, with round windows in the gables. 
A belfry 20 x 20 feet and 20 feet above the roof was built on 
the east end. This had large slatted windows in each side and 
contained one large and one small bell. A clock room, hexagonal 
in shape was built above the belfry. On the northeast of this 
was a clock face about eight feet in diameter, and a similar one 
on the southeast. Within this room was a clock gearing occupy- 
ing a space of about six (ft?) square and the same in highth. 
This was arranged to strike the hours on the large bell and the 
small bell to note the quarter hours. These bells could be heard 
a distance of seven miles, and were the two finest ones in the 
state at that time, (went to Concinnati). The church steeple 
was built above the belfry. 



542 Early Travels in Indiana. 

As a protection against Indians and known as the Fort was 
a building 40 x 70 feet south of , Granary between Main and 
West Streets. The first story was of rough stone, the walls about 
two feet in thickness with six port holes on either side and two on 
each end. The windows were barred with iron. The second and 
third stories were of brick. The two lower floors were laid with 
tile about nine inches square, probably with the object of pre- 
venting them being fired from the outside. The third story in 
the attic was floored with wood. The roof was what is known 
as a hipped roof and was very strongly built and covered with 
large tiles 7 x 12 inches, with hooks on the under side to lap 
over the lathing. There were three doorways, one on the north, 
south and east. The doors were very thick and strong and were 
securely fastened by enormous locks, and also barred as an addi- 
tional security. At the south end of this was a kitchen with a 
subterranean passage way connecting the cellar with the interior 
of the Fort. But this has never been substantiated. (There was 
no cellar to this building, but when it was torn down to build the 
"new laboratory", a small arched chamber about six feet wide 
and eight feet long was found.) 

On the same block, fronting on Church Street was a green- 
house about 20 x 40 feet, supported on rollers with lower 
foundation timbers twice the width of the house. On these were 
rails on which the grooved rollers travelled, allowing the build- 
ing to be moved back and forth. In each side of the house was 
a liberal supply of glass windows, and the room was heated with 
the old style of tinplate stoves. Within this house w r ere grown 
many kinds of tropical fruits, flowers, ferns, etc. 

Within the same block and west of this was a press house, a 
one story frame about 30 x 36 feet. Here was located the 
cider and wine press, a large wooden screw with a large lever to 
operate it. The apples were reduced to pulp by a large circular 
stone pivoted in the centre. This stone was twelve inches in 
thickness and about six feet in diameter. It was revolved on a 
shaft and travelled in a circle probably twenty feet in diameter 
in a stone trough, in this the apples are shovelled and crushed by 
the revolving stone until in condition for the press. 

The brickyard was at about the distance of two blocks south 
of South Street on the east side of the Mt. Vernon road near 
where Murphy Park is located. 

West of this was the rope walk, west side of the road. This 
was not enclosed except to protect the machinery. Southwest 



Victor Colin Duclos. 543 

of this and to the north of the road, leading to the Cutoff River 
was their Labyrinth. Within a circle of about 140 feet in diam- 
eter there were formed concentric circles with growth of hedge 
plants, presenting an intricate pathway leading to a small block 
house in the centre. The house was built of blocks of wood 
about twelve inches long pointed at one end. These were placed 
with the pointed ends outward to form a circular wall. The 
arrangement was such that it was almost impossible for anyone 
not accustomed to the construction to find their way to the build- 
ing or to its interior. 

At the northwest intersection of Brewery and North Streets 
was a frame building used for a brewery. In connection with 
this was a tread wheel built on a platform about twelve feet 
high. Within the wheel a dog or other small animal was used 
to furnish power to pump water. 

On the south side of Steam Mill Street between Brewery and 
East Streets were two frame buildings about 40 x 45 feet, 
three stories high. The one to the west was used for a cotton 
mill, the other as a store house. The cotton mill was driven by 
steam power and contained a complete outfit of cotton manu- 
facturing machinery. The mill was operated after the Germans 
left until destroyed by fire in 1826. 

East of East Street between Tavern and Steam Mill Streets 
were two large three story frame hip-roofed granaries about 
50 x 80 feet. In the attic of one of them was a large tread 
wheel about fourteen feet in diameter in which cattle or other 
heavy animals were used to create power for elevating grain. 

Other buildings used for warehouses, etc. were located in 
different parts of the town. About forty acres of land west and 
south of the town were planted in orchards (nearer sixty) and 
vinyards. On the hills east of the Mt Vernon road was a large 
vinyard of about eighteen acres, and east of this large orchards. 
The sight of these orchards was enough to impress the mind of 
anyone of the ability and industry of this remarkable society. 

South of the Labyrinth was a large locust grove. East of the 
Mt .Vernon road were a number of log cabins. To the west of 
the road but on the hills were many black locust trees evidently 
set out to supply material for fence posts. 

On my arrival here the only flouring mill in this locality was 
the one built by the Germans on the east bank and near the 
mouth of the Cut-off River about two miles southwest of town. 
The building was a three story frame. It was run by water power, 



544 Early Travels in Indiana. 

containing four run of stones. About two miles southeast of 
town, located on Gresham Creek was an oil mill driven by water 
power. There was also a distillery on the same stream below 
and north of the Princeton road. Near this and east of the Creek 
were many log cabins. This was Community No. 2. No. 3 was 
west of the Creek at the foot of the hills. 

When we arrived the scholars of the Maclore school went to 
the Neef boarding school in No. 2 until No. 5 was prepared for 
them. Then Madam Fretageot assumed controll as superin- 
tendent. In the No. 5 building painting, drawing, engraving 
and type-setting along with the common branches were taught. 
The painting and engraving department was in the assembly hall. 
In the old German frame church, with its belfry containing the 
town clock, shoe making was conducted on quite a large scale. 
In other buildings in the western and northern parts of the town, 
different branches of manufactures were conducted, so that the 
scholars could work at any trade they wished. 

In No. 5 we would study from an early hour, frequently 
beginning at three A.M. until eight, and from one P.M. to three 
P.M. The remainder of the mornings and afternoons would be 
devoted to work at the various trades. 

West of No. 5 was a building in which our meals were served. 
For breakfast we had an allowance of one and a half pints of 
milk, one large spoonful of molasses and as much corn meal mush 
as we wished. At noon we would have meat and vegetables, for 
supper we would return to mush and milk. At first we had 
coffee for breakfast but later Mme. Fretageot thought that was 
too extravagant, so henceforward we were only allowed coffee 
Sunday mornings. Two Mexican boys attended the school, who 
were sent from Mexico by William Maclure. James-Louis, aged 
10, and Sevalla, 8. They could not speak English and when 
they wanted to know if the next day was Sunday they would say 
"Tomorrow coffee?" and if answered in the affirmative their joy 
would be unbounded. After the close of the school they were 
sent back to Mexico and a few years later Sevalla was killed by 
brigands while driving a stage coach near the City of Mexico. 
Louis was never heard from after his arrival in his native home. 

The pupils would alternately assist in the kitchen, stirring 
the mush, preparing the vegetables, washing dishes, etc. also 
milk the cows and attend to the horses and other stock. An inter- 
meddling Dutchman, named Kreutz, assisted in the care of the 
stock, whose overbearing ways made him very obnoxious to the 



Victor Colin Duclos. 545 

boys who were daily brought in contact with him. One day I 
was out in the yard milking and was unfortunate enough to be 
kicked over by the cow who also as a parting act of good friend- 
ship, stepped on my foot which I resented by striking her three 
or four times with the milking stool. The Dutchman saw me 
tanning the cow and commenced abusing me. He also threat- 
ened to thrash me. I told him I would not milk another cow. 
He though I called him "A d— — old sow." He picked up a 
clapboard and started after me. I ran for the house yelling for 
help, as I reached the door the whole school was up greatly 
excited. They let me in and closed the door on my pursuer. 
The teacher wanted to know what it was all about. The Dutch- 
man told her what he thought I had called him, but with a full 
explanation I came out all right. 

A Swiss, named Baltazzar, a kind of an artist had a room in 
the south east corner of No. 2, and had made a large oil painting 
of the old Rapp church. It was hanging on the wall of his room 
and some of the boys decided that his lines were not perpendicu- 
lar, so they drew on one side a number of men with poles against 
it to push it into position and a number on the opposite side pull- 
ing on ropes fastened to the eaves, pulling at it. When he saw 
what they had done he was so angry that he surely would have 
killed the guilty parties had he been able to find out who they 
were. Another trick played on Balthazzar (spelled several ways) 
was then he and Mike Craddock quarrelled. He sent Mike a 
challenge to fight a duel which was accepted and it was decided 
that pistols should be used, distance — -five paces. Seconds were 
appointed who decided that blank cartridges should be used, and 
that Craddock should fall at the first fire. So early in the morn- 
ing the parties repaired to a secluded spot in the old orchard and 
the men took their positions and glared at each other while the 
seconds carefully loaded the pistols. Tom Cox, one of the 
seconds, instructed the principals that the signal to fire should be 
the dropping of a handkerchief, and that the result of this fire 
should settle the matter. To this the principals agreed. Their 
weapons were handed them and the signal given. There was 
scarcely any difference in the reports of the two weapons. Bal- 
thazzar was apparently unhurt, but Craddock staggered, dropped 
his pistol, clapped his hand to his heart, and fell backward appar- 
ently dead. It was a most realistic performance. His seconds 
rushed up, opened his coat and pronounced him dead. Bal- 
thazzar was frightened almost to death. He cried "For God's 

T— 35 



546 Early Travels in Indiana. 

sake, run for a doctor." At this Craddock burst out laughing 
Balthazzar saw he was the victim of a practical joke, altho much 
chagrined, he was well satisfied as to the outcome. He was very 
sensitive oyer it when the subject was brought up and finally 
returned to Europe, and as he said "to the company of gentlemen." 

One morning at the breakfast table we were all seated on a 
row of benches at either side of the table, and the mush placed 
near one of the rows so the scholars could help themselves. A 
young man, wishing more mush, lifted his foot over the seat and 
placed it down in the hot mush that happened to be directly 
behind him. He jumped about four feet high and yelled like a 
wild Indian, dancing over the floor he scattered the hot mush in 
every direction. 

One of our teachers, Mr. Lesueur, was a fine artist. He 
taught drawing and painting, and did a great deal of artistic 
work outside of the school. He and Thomas Say spent most of 
their leisure in the woods or in the river searching for shells and 
catching fish which they painted and described. Mr. Lesueur 
also devoted some of his time to painting scenes for the Theatre. 
One notable scent, on the south end of the old Hall was for the 
play of William Tell. It was still in good preservation when the 
building was torn down in 1874. It is related that one of his 
scenes represented a forest and the work was so artisticly exe- 
cuted that many of the audience thought they were real trees. 
The first piece put on the stage was The Maid and the Magpie. 
One scene represented a church with steeple and belfry. The 
maid arranged the table on the stage. 

Mr. Lesueur constructed a magpie and operated it so that it 
flew down while the maid was absent and took a spoon from the 
table, up to its nest in the belfry, then returned and flew back 
with another spoon. The spoons were missed and the maid 
accused of the theft. After having been put on trial, she was 
condemned to death. The day of execution arrived. The execu- 
tioner, supported by a double file of soldiers, marched in. The 
belfry man goes up in the belfry to toll the bell and finds the 
spoons in the magpie's nest. One of our teachers, Mrs Chase, 
took the part of the maid. About one year afterwards, Mr. 
Lesueur was called back to France by the French government 
and on his arrival there he was granted a large pension for valu- 
able services rendered on various exploring expeditions. 

One of our teachers was a copper plate engraver named 
Tiebout, who instructed the scholars in the art. Mrs Tiebout 



Victor Colin Duclos. 547 

also taught in the schools. They had two children who were 
pupils, one, a daughter, about twelve years old who in later years 
married a man named Cologne, the other a son about nine. Mr. 
Tiebout died here and was buried in the Woods' graveyard. 

Mr. Thomas Say was a fine gentleman and the scholars thought 
a great deal of him, in fact he was beloved by the whole com- 
munity. I spent a part of almost every day at his home on the 
northwest corner of Granary and West Streets. 

Our clothing was quite an item with us. The costume of the 
men and boys consisted of a jacket made quite large, pleated 
back and front with a band at the waist to which the pantaloons 
were buttoned. These were made to fit loosely and had no 
pockets. This formed our summer suit. 

One summer, while in swimming, at the ford of Gresham 
Creek, where the old covered bridge spans the stream, with the 
other boys, I left my suit up on the bank and lingered in the 
water after the other boys had dressed and gone. When I came 
out I could not find my clothes. On looking around, a saw a 
cow about thirty yards off with something hanging from her 
mouth. I discovered it was a leg of my lost pants which she 
was trying to dispose of. So I put on my little jacket and chased 
her around the common until I managed to secure a hold on about 
six inches of the leg. I pulled them out but they were in a sad 
condition. I took them to the Creek and washed them out the 
best I could and put them on and went home. For a long time 
after that I went by the name of "chawed breeches." 

About the year 1830, a young man named Oliver Evans came 
to town, and about a year later married Miss Louisa Neef, a 
daughter of one of our principal teachers. Mr Evans built a 
foundry north of North Street and east of Main. In connection 
with the foundry was a plow factory. Working on the building 
of the foundry, was a carpenter, named Chambers. He made a 
mortise on the wrong side of a stick of timber. He stood with 
his foot on the timber studying how to remedy the error, his 
elbow on his knee and his chin resting on his hand. A man com- 
ing up from the river noticed his preoccupied situation and asked 
him if he had the toothache, he said "yes", so the man said he 
would send Dr. Thompson down to pull it. The Doctor hastened 
down and found Chambers still resting as the man had found 
him. The Doctor asked him if he wanted it extracted he said 
"no" but he would like him to pull out this hole and put it on 
the other side of the timber. Dr. Thompson was very wrothy. 



548 Early Travels in Indiana. 

He said "y es > yes, Chalmers, I will make you pay for this", and 
sure enough, he did. 

The Evans foundry made the first cast plows that were made 
in the state, but he found he could buy the castings in Pittsburgh 
for about what the pig iron would cost delivered in New Harmony. 

The flouring mill at the Cutt-ofT was owned by Mr. Maclure 
and the miller was named Pennypacker. He was a man of great 
strength, and very proud of showing what he could do. One of 
his feats was to hang a 56 pound weight on his little finger and 
write his name with his arm extended full length. He would 
carry a barrel of flour under each arm. Mr. Pennypacker would 
come to the school to pay his rent. He frequently had to take 
two or three yoke of oxen and plow out the head of the Cut-off 
to get enough water to run the mill. 

There was a fire engine left here by the Germans that was 
used for protection against fire. It was arranged to be worked 
by eighteen men and was supplied with water by buckets. It 
was made by Pat Lyon in Philadelphia about 1804 and is still in 
use by the town. 

About 1834, a gentleman, Prince Maximillian, visited the 
town. He had with him three or four scientific men. He 
traveled under the name of Baron Brownsburg. While here he 
had a room in the northwest corner of No. 2, on the second floor. 
I was with him nearly every day and often accompanied him as 
a guide in his rambles over the country. Mr. B. asked me one 
day to get a skift and take him over on Fox Island. I did so, 
and fired his gun, frequently, but with poor success. 



INDEX 



A 
ACADEMIES, page 

Vincennes Academy described by Thomas in 1818 105 

AGRICULTURE, 

See Products. 

adaptability of Wabash country noted by Hutchins in 1778. . . 8 

described by Mackenzie 245 

extensive and profitable 200 

growing potatoes in lower Wabash valley 72, 103 

perfected in colony at New Harmony, 1828 514 

poor state in Ohio Valley noted by Thomas in 1816 46 

products grown in state 195, 230 

progressive methods of eastern emigrants described by Thomas 

in 1816 62 

rice 81 

rotation of crops practiced by Shakers in 1816 73 

ANARCHY, 

prevailing at New Harmony during absence of Robert Owen. . . 420 

ANDERSON'S RIVER, 

described by travelers 137, 213, 218 

ANIMALS, 

See Cattle, Hqrses, Sheep, Wild Animals. 

ANTIQUITIES, 

abundant in Indian mounds 456-457 

bone of mammoth found 62 

described by Brown in Western Gazetteer 162 

APPAREL, 

See Dress. 

APPLEGARTH, MR., 

associate of Robert Owen at New Harmony 433 

AREA, 

of state given by Darby 191 

given by Mackenzie 244 

given by Warden 216 

ARMY WORM, 

ravages noted by Thomas in 1816, and 1818 76, 114 

ASHE, THOMAS, 

biographical sketch 25 

ASSOCIATE PRESBYTERY OR SECEDERS, 

one or two societies existing in Indiana in 1827 503 

£549) 



550 Index 

ASSOCIATE REFORMED CHURCH, page 

mentioned by Reed 465 

ATTORNEYS, 

See Lawyers. 
ATWATER, CALEB, 

biographical sketch 530 

AURORA, 

described by travelers 204, 448 

B 
BACKWOODSMEN, 

See Hospitality. 

described by Birkbeck 178, 180 

hardships described by Mason 23G, 237 

BAILEY, BENJAMIN, 

mentioned by Forster 261 

BALTHAZAR, 

associate of Robert Owen at New Harmony 537, 545 

BANKS, 

at Vincennes, in 1818 105 

at Vincennes described by Brown in Western Gazetteer 160 

Madison bank chartered in 1814 ■ 106 

New Lexington bank bubble 462 

system at New Harmony 519 

BANKS, REV. D. C, 

organized Presbyterian church at New Albany 495 

BAPTISTS, 

church formed at New Albany, 1819 474 

conducting Indiana school at Fort Wayne 250 

numerous in Indiana in 1827 503 

prevailing sect in 1818 according to Birkbeck 188 

BARON BROWNSBURG, 

incognito of Prince Maximilian on his visit to New Harmony . . 548 

BATTLE OF TIPPECANOE, 

reasons leading up to expedition by Thomas in 1816 75 

BAYOUS, 

existence in Vincennes region noted by Thomas in 1816 87 

BEAL, JOHN, 

associate of Robert Owen at New Harmony 537 

BEARS, 

See Game. 

existence in early Indiana times 79 

furnishing abundant meat, 1828 527 

BE ATT Y, REV. C. C, 

Presbyterian missionary organized churches along Wabash 
River, 1822 496 

BEEF, 

prices paid at Vincennes in 1816 103 



Index 551 

bees, page 

not native to Indiana country 114 

BELL, JOHN, 

mentioned by Forster 267 

BENEVOLENT INSTITUTIONS, 

reviewed briefly by Reed, 1827 502-503 

BERNHARD, KARL, 

biographical sketch 418 

BETHANY CHURCH, 

in Owen County, supplied by Isaac Reed, 1822 485 

BETHLEHEM CHURCH, 

organized in Washington County by Presbyterians, 1824 486 

BIBLE SOCIETIES, 

formed in several counties, 1818-1827 502 

BIG BLUE RIVER, 

described by travelers 137, 213, 218 

BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES, 

Ashe, Thomas 25 

Atwater, Caleb 530 

Bernhard, Karl, Duke of Saxe-Weimer 418 

Birkbeck, Morris 171 

Bradbury, John 35 

Brown, Samuel R 136 

Cobbett, William 508 

Coffin, Charles F 532 

Cutler, Jervasse 37 

Dana, Edmund 197 

Darby, William 191 

Duclos, Victor Colin 536 

Flint, Timothy 438 

Forster, William 256 

Hall, Basil 506 

Hebert, William 327 

Hutchins, Thomas 7 

Imlay, George 9 

Mackenzie, Eneas 244 

Mason, Richard Lee 235 

Melish, John 29 

Pelham, William 360 

Postel, Karl 522 

Reed, Isaac 463 

Teas, Thomas Scattergood 246 

Thomas, David 42 

Volney, Constantine Francois 17 

Warden, David Baillie 216 

BIRDS, 

See Game. 

cranes 116 

crows 116 

hawks 117 

kinds noted by Thomas ................. y. .80, 116 

parroquets noted and described by Thomas in 1816 45 

pelicans 116 



552 Index 

BIRDS — Continued. page 

pigeons 49, 337, 456, 521 

prairie chickens 81,117 

robins 117 

swans 116 

turkey-buzzards and pigeons in great numbers, near Evans- 
vilie, 1828 510 

BIRKBECK, MORRIS, 

biographlal sketch 171 

BIRKBECK'S COLONY, 

in Illinois described by Cobbett 511-513 

BLACK RIVER, 

described in Western Gazetteer, 1817 140 

BLACKFORD, ISAAC, 

cashier of Vinceunes Bank in 1818 105 

BLISS, REV. STEPHEN, 

ordained as evangelist for Presbyterian church at Vincennes, 

1825 " 488 

BLOOMINGTON, 

college called State Seminary, taught bv a Presbyterian minister, 

1827 501 

Presbyterian church established by Isaac Reed, 1819 477 

BLUE GRASS, 

luxuriant growth noted by Bradbury, 1809-1811 35 

BLUE RIVER, 

See Big Blue River. 

meeting place of Society of Friends 265 

BOARDING HOUSES, 

See Taverns. 

BOAT LOAD OF KNOWLEDGE, 

applied to colony of educators who traveled down the Ohio from 
Pittsburg to Mt. Vernon, for New Harmony 537 

BOTANICAL CHARACTERISTICS, 

country boi'dering upper Ohio 44 

dodder noted by Thomas in 1816 65 

Drake's calendar of Indiana flora 110 

growth of columbo at Ft. Harrison noted by Thomas in 1816. . . 95 

hollyhocks 74 

iron weed 133 

jimson weed 67 

list of plants in Wabash Valley noted by Thomas in 1818 126 

of Indiana country noted by Bradbury in 1809-1811 35 

of Shakertown region noted by Thomas in 1816 74 

plant life noted by Imlay in 1793 10 

red trumpet flower noted by Thomas in 1816 63 

wild roses 66 

reed cane, cotton, rice and indigo 169 



Index 553 

BOUNDARIES, page 

given by Brown in Western Gazetteer, 1817 136 

by Dana, 1818 198 

by Darby 191 

by Flint 443 

by Thomas 100 

by Warden 216 

BRADBURY, JOHN, 

travels in Indiana territory in 1809-1811 35 

BRIARES, 

location and description in letter of soldier in 1791 16 

BRICKMAKING, 

output at New Harmony in 1825 394 

BROOKVILLE, 

described by travelers 149-150, 202, 223, 454 

place of publication of Plain Dealer 105 

BROUETTE RIVER, 

described in Western Gazetteer, 1817 140 

BROWN, SAMUEL R., 

biographical sketch 136 

Immigrant's Directory, published in Western Gazetteer, 1817 . 136-170 

BROWN, T. H. REV., 

first Presbyterian minister licensed in Indiana, 1824 496 

ordained for Presbyterian Church at Bethlehem, 1825 488 

BROWNSTOWN, 

described by Dana, 1819 209 

BUFFALOES, 

non existence noted by Thomas in 1818 116 

BUILDINGS, 

of brick and wood, at Vincennes, 1819 211 

BUSH, REV. GEORGE, 

first Presbyterian minister ordained in Indiana, at Indianapolis, 

1825 496 

of Indianapolis mentioned by Reed, 1823 487 

C 
CALENDARS, 

Drake's floral calendar 110 

CAMPING, 

necessary outfit for a night in the woods 179, 248 

CANADIAN VOLUNTEERS, 

described in Western Gazetteer 161 

dissatisfaction of early settlers with privileges 79 

CANALS, 

effect of completion of New York canal upon commerce in Indi- 
ana 243, 251 

letter by Capt. James Riley concerning possibility of canal be- 
tween Wabash and Miami .* 241-242 

proposed on the Ohio River and from the Wabash River to the 
Miami 207, 221, 450, 460 



554 Index 

CANE, PAGE 

abundant growth in Wabash country noted by Thomas in 1818. 133 

CANOES, 

described by Teas 247 

CANT PHRASES, 

used by Western settlers noted by Thomas in 1818 132 

CATALPA, 

existence in Indiana doubted by Thomas 127 

CATHOLICS, 

at Vincennes mentioned by Forster 257 

CATTLE, 

adaptability of Wabash country noted by Hutchins in 1778 ... 8 

droves for Baltimore market seen by Thomas in 1816 49 

fattened easily and cheaply 252 

grazing possibilities noted bv Imlay in 1793 10 

prices at Louisville 1806-1811 29 

tendency to murrain disease noted by Thomas in 1818 119 

CAVES, 

causes explained by Thomas in 1816 56 

courses of subterranean streams noted by Thomas in 1816 55 

Epsom salts cave described by Flint yielding nitrates, salt- 
petre, plaster of Paris, and sulphate of iron 197, 457-460 

existence noted by Cutler in 1812 41 

CELIBACY, 

observed by Harmony society 332 

by Shakers 337 

CENSUS, 

enumeration of people at Vincennes in 1816 102 

in 1816 106 

of 1810 and 1815 compared 200-201 

of 1820 given by Mackenzie 245 

population of Harmony colony in 1825 333 

CENTREVILLE, 

described by Dana, in 1819 202 

CEREALS, 

See Corn, Grains, Products, Wheat. 

CHALYBEATE SPRINGS, 

found near Jeffersonville 221 

CHARLESTON, 

described by travelers, 1828 157, 525 

CHARLESTOWN, 

described by Dana, 1819 206 

mentioned by Reed 467 

surrounded by land granted to George Rogers Clark by Vir- 
ginia 450 

CHASE, M., 

associate of Robert Owen at New Harmony 537 



Index 555 

CHEMIN RIVER, page 

described in Western Gazetteer, 1817 141 

CHERRIES, 

growth noted by Thomas in 1816 42 

CHICAGO RIVER, 

described by travelers 167, 220 

CHILDREN, 

in Robert Owen's society at New Harmony 424, 435 

CHURCHES, 

See Various Denominations. 

at New Harmony built by Rapp Society 334, 369, 541 

at Vincennes in 1818 105 

Bethany church in Owen county 485 

Bethlehem church in Washington county 486 

forms of religious services at New Harmony 370 

in Indiana, review by Isaac Reed, 1826 494 

Pisgah church near Madison 494 

CINCINNATI, 

climate 1 10 

described by Birkbeck 171-72, 174-75 

CIPPECAUGHKE, 

predecessor of Vincennes 101 

CIRCUIT PREACHERS, 

description of service at New Harmony in 1825 380 

CLARK COUNTY, 

described by Brown in Western Gazetteer 156 

CLARK, GEORGE ROGERS, 

land grant from Virginia, near Charlestown, mentioned by Flint. 450 

CLARKSVILLE, 

described by travelers 26, 30, 39, 157 

CLELAND, REV., 

mentioned by Reed 470 

CLIMATE, 

at Vincennes in 1818 106, 107 

Cincinnati in 1818 and previous years 110 

comparison of Ohio Valley with Atlantic states Ill 

described by travelers 18, 32, 147, 168-69, 217, 244, 446 

effect upon health, noted by Thomas in 1818 120 

in Salem neighborhood noted by Thomas in 1816 54 

CLOTHING, 

manufacture by early inhabitants noted by Imlay in 1793 10 

COAL, 

existence below Ft. Harrison noted by Thomas in 1818 129 

existence in Paoli neighborhood noted by Thomas in 1816 57 

existence noted by Bradbury in 1809-1811 36 

found in quantities 221 

mine opened in New Purchase in 1816 89 



556 Index 

COBBETT, WILLIAM, page 

biographical sketch 508 

COFFEE, 

prices at Vincennes in 1816 . 103 

COFFIN, CHARLES F., 

biographical sketch 532 

COLLEGE, 

at Bloomington called State Seminary taught by Presbyterian 

minister, 1827 501 

COLLOQUIALISMS, 

salutation "Stranger" common 66 

unusual pronunciation of words noted by Thomas in 1818 132 

use noted by Thomas in 1816 47 

COLUMBO, 

growth at Ft. Harrison noted by Thomas in 1816 95 

COMMERCE, 

See Trade. 

COMMITTEE, 

functions in settlement of disputes at New Harmony 382 

to revise New Harmory constitution 406 

COMMUNITY, 

See Harmony Colony; New Harmony. 

arguments in favor by Hebert 340 

farming of 5 : 000 acres by French near Vincennes 452 

observations of Hebert 338-39 

of goods tenet of Harmony Society 258, 453 

plan for formation of society by Hebert 353 

various organizations on Owen plan 375 

CONSTITUTION, 

adoption of New Harmony constitution in 1826 406, 408 

model for communistic society by Hebert 353 

CONSTITUTION OF INDIANA, 

approved by Darby 159 

briefly reviewed by Reed 498 

mentioned by Flint 461 

origin and brief statement of its provisions by Warden 224-229 

COPPER, 

brought to Ft. Harrison by Indians in 1817 129 

existence noted by Imlay in 1793 11 

supposed to exist in Raccoon creek neighborhood 129 

COPPERAS, 

found near Silver Creek 221 

CORN, 

adaptability of soil to raising noted by Imlay in 1793 10 

in Wabash country to raising noted by Hutchins in 1778. 8 

description of planting by Bernhard 434 

growth in neighborhood of Vincennes noted by Volney in 1804. 18 

methods of planting in prairie sod noted by Thomas in 1816 ... 98 

price at Louisville in 1806-1811 29 

at Vincennes in 1816 103 

in White River country in 1816 63 



Index 557 

CORYDON, PAGE 

described by travelers 158, 208-9, 451 

list of newspapers in 1818 ' 105 

CORYDON INDIANA GAZETTE, 

letter written by Capt. James Riley, describing topography of 

Indiana 241-243 

letter written by John Vawter describing topography ......... 239 

COTTON, 

adaptability of soil to raising noted by Imlay 9 

growth in Vineennes settlement noted by Volney in 1804 '. . . . . . 18 

produced in southern Indiana 217 

raised by Shakers at Shakertown in 1816 72 

COUNTIES, 

fifty-four organized in 1826 197 

population according to census of 1815 . . 201 

population and chief towns in 1810 223-224 

population of the five counties of the state in 1810 191 

COURT HOUSE, 

at Vineennes described by Thomas in 1816 106 

insanitary conditions 185 

COURTS, 

description of court scene by Volney in 1804 19 

settlement of disputes by committee at New Harmony 382 

CRANES, 

described by Thomas in 1818 116 

CRAWFISH, 

described by Thomas in 1818 118 

CRAWFORDSVILLE, 

Presbyterian church organized in 1824 486 

CREEKS, 

Little River, St. Marie, Pomme, Pine, Redwood, Rejoicing, Ver- 
million, Jaune, Little Vermillion, Erabliere, Duchet's, Breu- 
ette, Chemin, Big and Little Kennomic, Theakiki and Kick- 
apoo mentioned by travelers 214, 218-220 

Tanner's, Wilson's, Hogan's, Laughry's, Arnold's, Grant , Indian, 
Silver, Wyandot, Piqua, Beaver, Sinking, etc., mentioned by 
travelers 213, 218 

CRIMINALS, 

character of early settlers in lower Ohio valley as noted by 
Ashe in 1808 26 

CROPS, 

See Agriculture; Products. 

CROW, REV. J. F., 

organized Presbyterian church at Cory don in 1818. 495 

CROWS, 

destructive tendencies noted by Thomas in 1818 116 

CUMBERLAND PRESBYTERIANS, 

several societies existing in Indiana in 1827 503 



558 Index 

CUTLER, JERVASSE, page 

topographical description of Indiana Territory in 1812 37 

D 
DANA, EDMUND, 

biographical sketch 197 

DANCING, 

custom at New Harmony 370 

dresses worn by women at balls in New Harmony 387 

frequent occurrences at New Harmony in Robert Owen's So- 
ciety 381, 431, 433-434, 453, 529 

interference by Phiquepal 414 

DARBY, WILLIAM, 

biographical sketch 191 

D'ARUSMONT, PHIQUEPAL, 

associate of Robert Owen at New Harmony 537 

DAY, REV. EZRA H., 

Presbyterian pastor at New Albany, 1822 496 

DAYHOFF, MR., 

near White River mentioned by Reed 490 

DEARBORN COUNTY, 

described by Brown in Western Gazetteer 148 

DEARBORN GAZETTE, 

published at Lawrenceburg in 1818 105 

DECHE RIVER, 

described in Western Gazetteer, 1817 138 

or Decke described by travelers 214, 219 

DEER, 

existence in Early Indiana times 79 

DELAWARES, 

in western Indiana 145 

DERROW, REV. NATHAN B., 

Presbyterian missionary organized churches in Jennings and 
Jackson counties, 1818 , 495 

DICK, JOSHUA, 

mentioned by Forster 262 

DICKEY, REV. JOHN M., 

of New Lexington, mentioned by Reed 476 

pastor of Presbyterian church at Washington, about 1818 493 

DISCUSSION, 

high character of debates at New Harmony 408 • 

DISEASE. 

fevers and ague 95, 119 

insanity unknown 188, 232 

pear lash as a remedy 123 

preventive precautions suggested by Thomas in 1818 121 

remedies 123 

small-pox 188 

reflections of Thomas in 181S on causes 119 

varieties noted by Thomas in 1818 118 



Index 559 

DISTILLERIES, page 

built by Harmonist Society at Harmony 517 

of the Rapp Society at New Harmony removed by Robert Owen. 425 

DISTRIBUTION OF WEALTH, 

criticism of inequality 387 

DODDER, 

plant noted and described by Thomas in 1816 65 

DRAINAGE, 

by rivers and streams 212-215, 217 

of Dearborn county by many streams 204 

DRAKE, 

calendar of flora 110 

DRESS, REPP'S 

adopted by Rwkel't 'Owen's society at N«w Harmony 336, 424 

simplicity of early settlers noted by Thomas in 1816 TTT 58 

worn by women at balls in New Harmony 387 

DRIFT WOOD BRANCH, 

described in Western Gazetteer, 1817 138 

DRUNKENNESS, 

among Indians living near Vincennes 181 

summary methods of dealing with drunkards at New Harmony . . 381 

DRY GOODS, 

prices at Vincennes in 1816 103 

DUCHAT, RIVER, 

described in Western Gazetteer, 1817 140 

DUCLOS, PETER L. 

associate of Robert Owen at New Harmony 537 

DUCLOS, VICTOR COLIN, 

biographical sketch 536 

DUELLING, 

oath of militia officers to suppress 126 

DUFOUR, AMEDIE, 

associate of Robert Owen at New Harmony 537 

DUFOUR, J. J., 

member of Swiss colony at Vevay 448 

DUNN, W., 

mentioned by Reed 466 

DUPALAIS, VIRGINIA, 

associate of Robert Owen at New Harmony 431, 537 

DWELLING HOUSES, 

at New Harmony 419, 422, 428, 434, 453, 517-518, 539-540 

cabins described by travelers 236, 237, 256, 261, 264, 521 

construction described by Brown in Western Gazetteer 159 

in Wayne County described in recollections of Coffin 533 

of brick and wood, at Vincennes, 1819 211 

scarcity at New Harmony noted by Pelham in 1825 393 

windowless cabins at Troy, 1828 527 



560 Index 

DYES, PAGE 

red dyes for cotton from earth deposit 59 

EDUCATION, 

See Library Schools. 

conditions in State in 1827 501-502 

literary society at Vevay, 1817 155 

Pestalozzian system introduced by Mr. McClure and Mr. Neef 

in Robert Owen's society at New Harmony 435, 537 

Presbyterian Education societies formed, 1818-1826 502 

system introduced by Robert Owen 420 

EEL RIVER, 

described by travelers 138, 215, 220 

ELK, 

existence in early Indiana times 79, 116 

EMBREE, DR., 

lecturer on physiology at New Harmony 414 

EMIGRANTS, 

guide, published by Darby, 1818 191-196 

precautions advised by Thomas in 1818 119-124 

EMIGRANT'S DIRECTORY, 

by Samuel R. Brown, 1817, published in Western Gazetteer. 136-170 

EMIGRATION, 

extent noticed by Bradley in 1806-1811 36 

EPSOM SALT, 

found in a cave in southern Indiana 197, 222, 457-60 

ERABLIERE RIVER, 

described in Western Gazetteer, 1817 140 

EVANS, OLIVER, 

associate of Robert Owen at New Harmony 547 

EVANSVILLE, 

described by travelers 212, 437, 450 

landing place for travelers to Vincennes 113 

EWING, N., 

land officer at Vincennes in 1816 and host to Thomas 84, 85 

President of Vincennes bank in 1818 105 

P 

FALLS, 

in White river described by Thomas in 1816 63 

PALLS OF THE OHIO, 

described by travelers 30, 40 

FALQUE, CHARLES, 

associate of Robert Owen at New Harmony 537 

FARLOW, JOSEPH, 

mentioned by Forster 264 



Index 561 

FARMERS' AND MECHANICS' BANK, page 

in Madison, 1817 156 

FENCES, 

Birkbeck's mode, in Illinois, commended by Cobbett, 1828. . . . 513 

FERRIES, 

at Raccoon Creek, Vermillion County 491 

Davis's Ferry over Wabash 513 

Johnson's Ferry over a bayou of the Wabash 514 

on Embarras River described by Forster 259 

over Wabash described by Forster 258, 260 

FEVER AND AGUE, 

prevalence noted by Thomas in 1818 119 

FEVERS, 

prevalence in Wabash country in 1816 95 

FINANCES, 

of state treasury 230 

FIQUEPAL, MR., 

See Phiquepal. 
FISH, 

abound in northern streams 456 

kinds noted by Thomas in 1818 117 

plentiful supply in Great Kennomic 223 

prices at Vincennes in 1816 103 

unhealthfulness of fresh fish as a diet, noted by Thomas in 1818. 123 

warning by Thomas in 1818 against fishing in warm weather. . . 122 

FLINT. 

existence of gun flint noted by Thomas in 1816 44, 97 

FLINT, TIMOTHY, 

biographical sketch 438 

FLOODS, 

affecting Lawrenceburgh 202 

effect of early floods on trees 91 

Wabash valley 146 

FLOWERS, 

See Botanical Characteristics. 

cultivation by German colony at Harmony regarded as symptom 
of simplicity and ignorance 514 

FLY-FLAPPER, 

construction described by Thomas in 1816 79 

FOOD, 

See Hospitality. 

caution of Thomas as to diet in 1818 to new settlers 122 

meats 196 

price of flour at Louisville in 1825 367 

price of pork and other foods at Vincennes, 1816 103 

prices at Vincennes in 1816 103 

FORDS. 

necessary and dangerous 237 

T— 36 



562 Index 

FOREST FIRES, page 

described by Mason 238 

FORSTER, WILLIAM, 

biographical sketch 256 

FORT DEARBORN, 

garrison destroyed in 1812 232 

FORT HAMILTON, 

location and description 14 

FORT HARRISON, 

described by Thomas in 1816 96 

description of prairie of same name by Thomas in 1818 131 

garrison about 1810 232 

FORT KNOX, 

located by Thomas in 1816 69 

FORT ST. MARY'S, 

described by Teas 252 

FORT WAYNE, 

described by Capt. James Riley 241, 243 

described by Teas 250 

distance from Vincennes noted by Thomas in 1818 135 

mentioned by Warden 232 

notes of Thomas of trip from Vincennes in 1818 135 

FORTS, 

fortified building at New Harmony built by Rapp Society 541 

fortified houses described by Thomas in 1816 51 

FOWLER, REV. ORIN, 

letter to Isaac Reed, from Carlisle, Ind., 1819 478-486 

FRANKLIN COUNTY, 

described by Brown in Western Gazetteer 148 

FREDERICKSBURG, 

described by Mason 236 

FREDONIA, 

described by Dana, 1819 209 

FRENCH GRANTS, 

in the Wabash country 77 

FRENCH LICK, 

described by travelers 60, 521 

FRENCH SETTLERS, 

at Vincennes, characteristics 184, 451, 461 

complaint of treatment after American ascendency 20, 21 

description by Volney in 1804 20 

followed the Indians on Indiana soil 233 

location described by Hutchins in 1778 8 

longevity of early settlers of Vincennes. 113 

titles in Vincennes region confirmed by United States 101 

uncertainty as to time of settling Vincennes 101 



Index 563 

FRETAGEOT, MADAME, PAGB 

associate of Robert Owen at New Harmony 407, 432, 434, 537 

FRIENDS, 

See Society of Friends. 
FROSTS, 

season in Vincennes region noted by Thomas in 1818 108 

FRUITS, 

See Orchards. 

adaptability of soil in southwestern Indiana to growth 65 

noted by Imlay in 1793 10 

adaptability of Wabash river soil noted by Hutchins in 1778 .... 8 

cherries noted by Thomas, 1816 42 

grapes 114, 133, 230, 441, 449, 508 

orchards at Shakertown in 1816 72 

persimmons 115 

productiveness mentioned by Forster 266 

strawberries 98, 108 

varieties grown described by Warden 230 

FUNERALS, 

simplicity at New Harmony 382 

FUR TRADE, 

extent noticed by Hutchins in 1778 8 

G 
GAME, 

See Wild Animals. 

bears and deer 79, 527 

deer, bears, wolves and various birds 223 

described by Brown in Western Gazetteer 168 

elt 79, 116 

plentiful 158-9, 236, 247, 456 

prairie chickens 81, 1 17 

varieties noted by Imlay in 1793 10 

GARDENS, 

description of gardens at Harmony by Hebert in 1825 336 

gardening described by Cobbett, 1828 508-513 

thrifty at New Harmony, 1828 514 

GEOGRAPHY, 

of Indiana given by travelers, 244-245, 443-462 

GEOLOGICAL FORMATION, 

country adjacent to upper Ohio noted by Thomas in 1816 45 

country in Knob region noted by Thomas in 1816 50, 51 

country in neighborhood of Paoli noted by Thomas in 1816. ... 56 

French Lick region described by Thomas in 1816 60 

Indiana country noted by Bradbury in 1809-1811 35 

GIBSON COUNTY, 

described by Brown in Western Gazetteer 162 

GILL'S PRAIRIE, 

described by Thomas 87, 125 

GINSENG, 

described by Brown in Western Gazetteer 149 

grown near Fort Wayne 251 

on Whitewater River 222 



564 Index 

GLAUBER'S SALTS, page 

existence noted by Thomas in 1816 47 

found in cave near New Albany 222 

GOPHERS, 

existence noted by Thomas in 1816 65 

GOVERNMENT, 

comments upon by Mackenzie 245 

by Reed, 1818 498 

GRAHAM, S., 

mentioned by Reed 465 

GRAINS, 

See Agriculture; Corn; Wheat. 

adaptability of Wabash country soil noted by travelers 8, 9 

animals injurious to grains 230 

crops described by Brown in Western Gazetteer 151 

for food, stock and distilleries grown in State 195 

grown in central Indiana 445 

prices at Louisville in 1806-1811 29 

at Vincennes in 1816 103 

GRAND PRAIRIE, 

described by Thomas in 1816 77 

GRAPES, 

grown abundantly at Vevay 441, 449, 508 

by Harmony Colony 336 

in Wabash country 114, 133 

• grown near Vevay degenerated in quality 522 

varieties grown described by Warden 230 

GRASS, 

luxuriant growth of blue grass noted by Bradbury, 1809-1811. . 35 
native and blue grass 446 

GREAT KENNOMIC RIVER, 

described by B-* >wn in Western Gazetteer 167 

GREAT SALINE, 

location noted by Cutler in 1812 38 

GREEN COUNTY, 

Presbyterian church organized, 1825 488-489 

H 

HALF-MOON SPRING, 

described by Thomas in 1816 57 

HALL, B. R. REV., 

ordained for Presbyterian church at Bloc mington, 1825 487 

HALL, BASIL, 

biographical sketch 506 

HARDENSBURGH, 

described by Dana, 1819 . . ' 204 

HARDWARE, 

prices at Vincennes in 1816 103 



Index 565 

HARMONY, 

See Community; New Harmony. page 

described by Brown in Western Gazetteer 162 

surrounding land 189-190 

HARMONY COLONY, 

account of Rapp's society by Bernhard 421-422 

agriculture and manufacturers 231 

business methods and colony management 331 

chiefly settled by Germans from Wirtemburg 328 

described by Brown in Western Gazetteer 162 

by Dana, 1819 212 

by Hebert 327 

by Thomas in 1818 125 

description of church in course of erection in 1825 334 

of dress worn by members 336 

of Rapp's home* by Pelham in 1825 378 

gardens described by Hebert in 1825 336 

habits of industry 330, 331 

home of Rapp described by Hebert in 1825 328 

industries noted by Thomas in 1818 125 

location at Harmony noted by Thomas in 1818 125 

love for music noted by Hebert in 1825 335 

manufactures 336 

members regarded as priest-ridden by Hebert 333 

method of government by the Rapps 332 

not hospitable to printers 331 

number of members in 1825 333 

objection to use of English language by Rapp 333 

origin and history given by Cobbett 516 

religious views of members 329 

value of buildings and improvements sold to Robert Owen 538 

views and practices as to marriage 330 

vineyards described by Hebert in 1825 336 

HARRISON, 

described by Brown in Western Gazetteer 151 

described by travelers as situated in both Ohio and Indiana 454 

Indian mounds and surroundings described by Dana 204 

HARRISON COUNTY, 

described by Brown in Western Gazetteer 157 

HARRISON, GENERAL WM. HENRY, 

destroyed Indian town, 1811 456 

estate in Harrison County 157 

estate in Knox County. 159 

plantation mentioned by Flint 438 

HARRISON'S PURCHASE, 

described by Warden 231 

HAT FACTORIES, 

number at Vincennes in 1816 102 

HAWKIN'S TAVERN, 

described by Birkbeck 178 

HAWKS, 

existence noted by Thomas in 1818 117 



566 Index 

HEALTH, page 

climatic conditions affecting 446-447 

conditions in certain seasons 186 

conditions throughout the state described by Reed, 1827. . . .499-500 

diseases mentioned 118-121 

of settlers, described by Birkbeck 176-77 

HBBERT, WILLIAM, 

account of visit to Harmony colony in 1825 327 

biographical sketch 327 

plan for communistic society 353 

views on communistic societies 338, 340 

HELIANTHUS, 

growth in Wabash country noted by Thomas in 1818 133 

HENDERSON, 

description of town by Ashe in 1808 27 

HILLS, 

described by Brown in Western Gazetteer, 1817 141-42 

HINDOSTAN, 

described by travelers 237, 256 

HISTORY, 

of settlement of Indiana described by Warden 232 

HOGGETT, MOSES, 

mentioned by Forster 261, 262 

HOLLYHOCKS, 

existence in Quakertown neighborhood noted by Thomas in 1816. 74 

HONEY CREEK PRAIRIE, 

described by Thomas in 1816 94 

HORSES, 

breeds noted by Hutchins in 1778 8 

sale price, 1828 ■ 511 

salivation produced by eating certain plants 58 

tree stripping practice noted by Thomas in 1816 46 

HORSETHIEVES, 

summary mode of vengeance, 1828 511 

HOSPITALITY, 

abundant at Tavern in New Harmony, 1828 515 

described by Mason 235 

fare at supper at Dr. McNamee's in 1825 403 

food served to travelers 237-238, 246, 249, 264, 479, 506, 533 

mentioned by Forster 262, 263 

of backswoodsmen 256, 266 

of Lebanon, described by Birkbeck 171 

of settlers taxed by travelers, described by Birkneck 177 

sleeping accommodations poor 259 

tavern rates at New Harmony 375 

at Vincennes in 1816 103 

to travelers, in Wayne County . • • 533 

tribute paid by Isaac Reed to this eharactei'istic in Indiana, 

1827 503-505 

unfavorable criticism of Captain Hall, 1827 506-507 

of Thomas in 1816 43 

very meagre, as described by travelers 236-237 



Index 567 

HUNT, ABNER, page 

mentioned by Forster 262 

HUTCHLNS, THOMAS, 

biographical sketch 7 

topographical description of county in 1778 7 

I 
IMLAY, GEORGE, 

biographical sketch 9 

topographical description of Indiana country in 1793 9 

IMMIGRATION, 

into Indiana 462 

from Kentucky, through Vevay, for settlement in Indiana 523 

to and from western lands, through Vincennes 257 

to Indiana noiseless, but steady and rapid 443 

INDTAN BATTLES, 

ambush attacks on white settlers 76 

attack against Indians led by General Harrison, 1811, 1813. . . . 234 

led by General Wilkinson, 1791 233 

provision wagons for relief of Ft. Harrison 90 

described by Brown in Western Gazetteer 162 

description of campaign against Indians in 1791 11-17 

description of fortified houses by Thomas in 1816 52 

expeditions against, described bv Brown in Western Gazetteer, 

1817 ... 143 

exterminating battle found on ground occupied bv Fort Harri- 
son 233, 457 

reasons leading up to expedition at Tippecanoe by Thomas in 

1816 75 

INDIAN CLAIMS, 

described by Brown in Western Gazetteer 170 

INDIAN CREEK, 

described in Western Gazetteer, 1817 137 

INDIAN KENTUCKY RIVER, 

described in Western Gazetteer, 1817 137 

INDIAN MOUNDS, 

antiquities abundant 456-57 

found at Harrison 152, 204, 454 

in Franklin County described by Warden 229 

in Vincennes neighborhood described by Thomas in 1816 84 

on Wabash River 162 

INDIAN RELICS, 

described by Brown in Western Gazetteer 154 

INDIAN VILLAGES, 

destroyed by General Wilkinson and General Harrison 456 

INDIANA, 

area, population, rivers, productions as given by Darby, 1818. . 191 

boundaries and area given by Warden 216 

INDIANA CENTINEL, 

published at Vincennes in 1818 105 

INDIANA GAZETTE, 

published in Corydon, in 1818 105, 158 



568 Index 

INDIANA HERALD, page 

published at Corydon in 1818 105 

INDIANA MISSIONARY SOCIETY, 

formed at Presbytery in 1822 488, 502 

INDIANA REGISTER, 

published at Vevay in 1818 105, 155 

INDIANA REPUBLICAN, 

published at Madison in 1818 105 

INDIANA TERRITORY, 

boundary recitals by Ashe in 1808 25 

by Cutler in 1812 37 

description by Melish, 1806-1811 32 

nature of government noted bj' Melish in 1806-1811 33 

INDIANAPOLIS, 

consideration of route from New Harmony 412 

described by Flint as of very rapid growth 455 

fine common school in 1827 501 

Persbyterian church formed, 1822 485 

surrounded by very rich lands 445 

INDIANS, 

See Indian Battles. 

depredations described by Brown in Western Gazetteer 160 

described by Brown in Western Gazetteer 163-164 

description of tribes in Vincennes country by Volney in 1804 ... 22 

first settlers in Indiana 232 

friendliness with early Quaker settlers 54 

history of their occupation of Indiana 461-462 

in and around Fort Wayne, 1820 250 

living near Vincennes, their dress and habits 181 

location of Miami village on Eel river by Thomas in 1818 135 

near Wapaughkonnetta 253 

owners of land in central Indiana 217 

pensions received 249, 253 

pernicious effects from use of intoxicants 96 

price obtained for lands in Indiana sold to United States, 1795. . 233 

remains of wigwams found by Thomas in 1816 100 

retaliation for murder of Pottawotamie chief 75 

schools, 1820 250 

tribes and numbers described by Flint 455 

tribes frequenting Western Indiana, described by Brown in 

Western Gazetteer, 1817 145 

tribes noted by Hutchins in 1778 8 

INDIGO, 

raised by Shakers at Shakertown in 1816 72 

INDUSTRIES, 

See Manufactures; Mills. 

followed at New Harmony in Robert Owen's society. . . . 394, 425, 433 

lack of industry described at Princeton, by Cobbett, 1828 510 

INFLUENZA, 

prevalence at New Harmony in 1826 412 

INGERSOL, MR., 

near White River mentioned by Reed 490 



Index 569 

INHABITANTS, 

See Emigrants; Settlers. page 

commended by Atwater, 1831 530 

predominance of former inhabitants of Kentucky in south- 
western Indiana 65 

unfavorable criticism of characteristics by Postel 524 

INNKEEPERS, 

See Taverns. 
INSANITY, 

unknown 188, 232 

INSECTS, 

army worm 76 

bees 114 

causing great annoyance 246, 252, 384, 509, 511 

INTOXICATING LIQUORS, 

drunkenness among Indians 181 

ineffectual laws governing sale to Indians 249 

manufactured at Harmony by Rapp society 425, 517 

at Vevay 449 

manufactured in State, 1818 196 

pernicious effects noted by Thomas in 1816 96 

prices at Vincennes, 1816 103 

summary method of dealing with drunkards at New Harmony . . 381 

Avarning against use in writings of Thomas in 1818 122 

IRON ORE, 

deposits in Paoli neighborhood noted by Thomas in 1816 60 

found on White River 221 

IRON WEED, 

growth in Wabash country noted by Thomas in 1818 133 

J 
JACKSON COUNTY, 

described by Brown in Western Gazetteer 158 

JAILS, 

description by Thomas in 1816 46 

log jail at Vincennes in 1816 106 

JEFFERSON, 

description of town by Ashe in 1808 25 

JEFFERSON COUNTY, 

described by Brown in Western Gazetteer 156 

JEFFERSONVILLE, 

described by travelers 29, 39, 157, 206-7, 223, 450, 526 

JENNINGS, REV. MR., 

associate of Robert Owens at New Harmony 423, 436 

character of service at New Harmony .376, 379, 386, 387 

pastor and officer of New Harmony infantry 370, 373, 395, 399 

JIMSON WEED, 

existence at Vincennes noted by Thomas in 1816 67 

JUSTICE, 

suborned in criminal trials, according to Postel, 1828 525 



570 Index 

K 

KATHTIPPACAMUNCK, page 

Indian battle in 1791 12 

nature of surrounding country 14 

KENAPACOMAQUA, 

Indian battle in campaign of 1791 13 

KENNOMIC RIVER, 

described in Western Gazetteer, 1817 141 

KENTUCKY, 

predominance of former inhabitants in southwestern Indiana. . 65 

KICKAPOO INDIANS, 

in western Indiana, 1817 145 

residence near Fort Ouiatanon noted by Hutchins in 1778 8 

their towns the objective of Indian expedition of 1791 13, 14 

KICKAPOO RIVER, 

described in Western Gazetteer, 1817 141 

KNOBS, THE, 

country from Knobs to east branch of White River 134 

described by Thomas in 1816 50 

views of Volney as to geological formation 50 

KNOX COUNTY, 

described by Brown in Western Gazetteer 159 

most populous part of state in 1819 224 

L 
LABYRINTH, 

at New Harmony, built by Rapp Society 543 

LAFAYETTE, MARQUIS DE, 

description of his last visit to Philadelphia by Duclos 536 

LAKES, 

bordering Indiana, described by Samuel R. Brown in Western 

Gazetteer, 1817 136 

numerous in northern Indiana 215, 220 

LAND, 

near Harmony, described by Birkbeck 189-190 

price described by Birkbeck 172-73 

prices in Wabash valley in 1818 130 

price of improved lands in 1817 168 

sale and prices 145, 230-231 

value in the Paoli neighborhood in 1816 59 

value in Vincennes region in 1816 83 

varieties and fertility 439-440 

LAND OFFICES, 

irregularities in the sale of public lands at Vincennes 187 

LATITUDE AND LONGITUDE, 

given by Flint 443 

given by Postel 523 

given by Reed 497 

given by Mackenzie 244 



Index 571 

LAUNDRY WORK, page 

prices at New Harmony in 1826 405 

LAWRENCEBURG, 

described by Flint as affected by floods 438 

described by travelers 148, 202, 223, 447 

place of publication of Dearborn Gazette 105 

LAWRENCEVILLE, 

described by Forster 259 

LAWYERS, 

number at Vincennes in 181G 102 

LEBANON, 

described by Birkbeck 171 

LESUEUR, MONS, 

eminent naturalist and associate of Robert Owen at New Har- 
mony 407, 436, 537, 546 

LETTERS, 

by William Pelham written in 1825 and 1826 360 

LEVEE, 

necessity of construction pointed out by Thomas in 1818 132 

proper pronunciation of word 135 

LEWIS. MR., 

associate of Robert Owen at New Harmony 422 

LIBRARY, 

at Vevay in 1817 155 

catalogue of books brought into New Harmony by Maelure. . . . 407 

circulating libraries proposed for New Harmony 374 

consignment of books by Mr. Owen for New Harmony library . . 400 

limited in number and extent in 1818 . 196 

Vincennes in 1818 105 

LICENSURE, 

first granted in Indiana to T. H. Brown at Presbytery in Charles- 
town, 1824 487 

LINDLEY, J., 

impressions of this Quaker leader by Thomas in 1816 54 

LITERARY SOCIETY, 

at Vevay in 1817 155 

LITTLE BLUE RIVER, 

described by travelers 213, 218 

LITTLE RIVER, 

described in Western Gazetteer, 1817 137, 139 

LITTLE VERMILLION RIVER, 

described in Western Gazetteer, 1817 '. 140 

LIVERPOOL, 

village described by Thomas in 1816 65 

LIVONIA, 

meeting of Louisville Presbytery, 1818 475 



572 Index 

LONGEVITY, page 

of inhabitants of Vineennes noticed by Thomas in 1818 113 

LOST RIVER, 

existence and characteristics noted by Thomas in 1816 55 

in Orange county described by Dana 197 

LOUGHERY'S CREEK, 

described in Western Gazetteer, 1817 136 

LOUISVILLE, 

described by Cobbett, 1828 509 

by Volney in 1804 19 

prices of commodities noted by Melish 29 

M 
McCLURE, D., 

mentioned by Isaac Reed 463 

McCLURE, WILLIAM, 

associate of Robert Owen at New Harmony 422, 430, 435 

removed his School of Industry from Philadelphia to New Har- 
mony 537 

estimate of character by Pelham 407 

MACLURIA, 

No. 2 society founded by Robert Owen 428, 434 

Mcdonald, captain, 

associate of Robert Owen, at New Harmony 537 

McGREADY, REV. JAMES, 

organized Presbyterian church at Pisgah 1818, at Blue River and 
Livonia 494 

MACKENZIE, ENEAS, 

biographical sketch 244 

McNAMEE, DR., 

associate of Robert Owen at Nee Harmony 424 

MADISON, 

described by travelers 46, 205, 206, 449, 464 

place of publication of Indiana Republican 105 

MADISON PRESBYTERY, 

formed in 1825 496 

MADISONVILLE, 

described by Postel, 1828 524 

MAILS, 

carried horseback and by wagons. 535 

routes leading to New Harmony in 1825 401 

MAIZE, 

See Corn. 

MAMMOTH, 

reflections of Thomas on bone found in western Indiana 62 



Index 573 

MANNERS AND CUSTOMS, page 

described by Mason 235-236 

by Warden 232 

of farmers described by Birkbeck 174 

of people of Indiana with stangers, gruff and impolite, 1827. . . . 506 

MANUFACTURES, 

See Mills. 

at Brookville 454 

at New Harmony by Robert Owen's society 421, 516, 517, 528 

at Vevay 449 

extent noticed bv Imlay in 1793 10 

at Vincennes in 1816 102 

of leather goods and furniture in State, 1818 196 

value in 1810 231 

MAPLE SUGAR, 

manufacture noted by Thomas in 1816 59 

MARKET HOUSES, 

number at Vincennes in 1816 102 

MARKETS, 

for Indiana products, 1817 165 

Natchez and New Orleans markets for Indiana products 196 

MARRIAGE, 

See Celibacy. 

ceremony described by Birkbeck 174 

civil contract and French laws introduced by Robert Owen in his 

society at New Harmony 435 

requirements for solemnization, 1818 499 

MARTIN, REV. WM. W., 

pastor of Presbyterian church at Salem 495 

MASCONTIN RIVER, 

described in Western Gazetteer, 1817 138 

MASON, RICHARD LEE, 

biographical sketch 235 

MASSASSINWAY RIVER, 

described by travelers 135, 137, 215, 219 

MAUMEE RIVER, 

described by travelers 241 

MAXIMILLIAN, PRINCE, 

account of visit to New Harmony 548 

MEATS, 

grown in the State, 1818 196 

MEDICINAL SPRING, 

near Jeffersonville, described in Western Gazetteer. ; 157 

MEDICINES, 

suggestions as to use by Thomas in 1818 123 

MEETINGS, 

frequency at New Harmony 408 

of Friends in vicinity of Paoli 54 



574 Index 

MELISH, JOHN, page 

biographical sketch 29 

MERCHANDISE, 

money only accepted at Vincennes in 1816 102 

MEROM, 

described by travelers 124, 210, 451 

METHODISTS, 

assemblage of members at New Albany in 1825 398 

at Vincennes mentioned by Forster 257 

church at New Albany, 1818 408, 473 

numerous in Indiana in 1827 503 

pioneer preachers over entire state 534 

services at New Harmony in 1825 380, 388 

MIAMI INDIANS, 

description by Volney in 1804 22 

in western Indiana 145 

numbers in 1820 249 

village on Eel River 135 

MIAMI OF THE LAKES, 

See Matjmee River. 

described in Western Gazetteer, 1817 140 

MIAMI RIVER, 

described by travelers 241 

MICA SLATE, 

existence noted by Thomas in Vincennes region in 1816 69 

MILFORD MEETING-HOUSE, 

near Milton, mentioned by Forster 267 

MILITARY DRILL, 

by the boys in Robert Owen's society at New Harmony ....:.. 424 

MILITARY EXEMPTION, 

custom of New Harmony society to pay fine in lieu of service . . . 258 

MILITIA, 

drill of New Harmony infantry company 382, 388 

oath of officers to suppress duelling 126 

organization of company at New Harmony 374, 395, 432 

use of Sunday for drills and parades at New Harmony 399 

MILLS, 

at New Harmony built by Rapp Societv 543 

at Vincennes, 1819 211 

floating grist mills in Ohio noted by Thomas in 1816 42 

in Brookville, on the Whitewater river and in Lawrenceburgh . . 202 

in New Albany, 1819 208 

steam mill at Harmony in 1818 126 

toll exacted by floating mills 135 

toll for grinding at horse mills in 1818 135 

MILLS, REV. SAMUEL J.. 

of Jeffersonville mentioned by Reed 477 

MINERAL SPRINGS, 

French Lick visited by Thomas in 1816 60 



Index 575 

MINERALS, page 

described in Western Gazetteer 170 

existence noted in topographical survey of Hutchins in 1778. ... 8 

found in Indiana 11, 47, 129, 221 

iron ore 60, 221 

nitre 47 

salt 147 

salt, coal, copper, silver and iron found 456 

salt-petre 197, 222, 457-60 

MINISTERS. 

circuit preachers 380 

of Presbyterian church men of learning, 1827 502 

MISSIONS, 

Indiana as a missionary field, 1818 481-483 

work of Isaac Reed for the Presbvterian church 463-505 

work of William Forster for the Society of Friends, 1821 . . . .256-267 

MONTHLY MEETINGS, 

of Friends in vicinity of Paoli 54 

MORRIS, JACOB, 

mentioned by Forster 266 

MOSQUITOES, 

annoyance of New Harmony settlement noted by Pelham 384 

MOUNT VERNON. 

arrival of Pelham in 1825 367 

described by Bernhard 418 

river port on Ohio for New Harmony 537 

source of unf avorable reports on New Harmony society 375 

MUDDY FORK OF WHITE RIVER, 

described in Western Gazetteer, 1817 138 

MUSIC, 

devotees in Harmony colony 335 

in Robert Owen's society at New Harmony 423 

MUSQUITON INDIANS, 

residence near Fort Ouiatanon noted by Hutchins in 1778. ... 8 

MUSSELS, 

use for lime noted by Thomas in 1818 118 

N 
NAMES, 

sameness of names of towns noted by Thomas in 1818 125 

NAVIGABLE WATERS, 

described by Brown in Western Gazetteer 165 

described by Reed 497 

enumerated by Warden 220-221 

insufficient, according to Postel, depriving Indiana of a market. 523 

Potoka river 128 

Wabash River 37, 112, 418 

White River 112, 146 



576 Index 

NAVIGATION, page 

boats moved by horses on deck 363 

description of Ohio river steamboat of 1825 361 

extent on Ohio River in 1810 31 

over Falls of the Ohio 30 

profanity of steamboat men in 1825 362 

NEEF, MR., 

associate of Robert Owen at New Harmony 422, 424, 429, 435 

NEGROES, 

See Slavery. 
NEHESAWEY INDIANS, 

likeness to people of Tartary 17 

NEW ALBANY, 

described bv travelers 157, 207-208, 235, 450, 46S, 473, 521, 526 

first Sunday School formed, 1818 474 

religious conditions, 1818 480 

NEW HARMONY (OWEN COLONY), 

See Harmony (Rapp Colony). 

absence of ceremony in social greetings 369 

agriculture perfected in this colony, 1828 514 

amount of allowances to member 396 

announcement of publication of newspaper 376 

applications for membership 372, 401 

arrival of Mr. Owen, January, 1826 405 

'"Boat Load of Knowledge" migrating from Pittsburgh to the 

colony down the Ohio 407, 537 

business methods at public store 371 

character of committee in charge in Owen's absence 375 

character of instructors brought over by Mr. Owen in 1826. . . . 405 

character of tavern keeper 402 

charges at tavern 375 

circulation of Gazette 395 

colony described briefly by Forster _ 258 

comparative youth of members of community in 1825 400 

conditions in community in 1827 described by Wm. Creese Pel- 
ham 414 

constitution, discussion and adoption 406, 408 

dances and concerts 381 

described by Bernhard 419 

described by Flint 452 

described by Pelham in 1825 378 

editorial methods in Gazette office 399 

effect of Mr. Owen's visit in 1826 409 

forms of religious service 370 

functions of committee in settlement of wages of employes 382 

gardens, farms and institutions described by Cobbett, 1828. .514-520 

Gazette devoted primarily to propaganda 396 

how memberships acquired 394 

ideas as to individual wealth 392 

letters of William Pelham in 1825 and 1826 360 

liberality of expression of beliefs 377 

location and description of church 369 

methods of life 373 

method of reimbursement of retiring members of community. . 394 

methods of selecting employments 372 

misrepresentations by religious sects 398 

offer of enterprise by Owen to society 365 

officers under constitution adopted in 1826 409 

organization of militia company 374 



Index 577 

NEW HARMONY— Continued. page 

organization of societies at other places 374 

principle of self support 393 

provisions against scheming adventurers 397 

reasons for unfavorable reports of community . 375, 383, 393, 394, 401 

scarcity of house room in 1825 393 

scarcity of provisions for winter of 1825-1826 381 

serious tone of every day conversation 371 

simplicity of funeral ceremonies 382 

summary methods of dealing with drunkards 381 

tolerance of religious beliefs 378 

value of buildings and improvements sold to Robert Owen . . 538-539 

wages allowed for work 389 

weather in January, 1826 404 

in winter of 1825 398 

working hour schedule 394 

NEW LEXINGTON, 

described by travelers 48, 156 

meeting of Louisville Presbytery, 1819 476 

NEW LIGHTS, 

several societies existing in 1827 503 

NEW PURCHASE, 

entry by Thomas in 1810 88 

NEW SWITZERLAND, 

described by travelers 154, 522 

NEWBY, THOMAS, 

mentioned by Forster 266 

NEWCASTLE, 

described by Reed as destitute of religious society 463 

NEWSOME, THOMAS, 

mentioned by Forster 266 

NEWSPAPERS, 

announcement of publication of NeAV Harmony Gazette, and 

first issue 376, 387^ 

character of contents of New Harmony Gazette 396, 404* 

circulation and subscription price of New Harmony Gazette. . . 395 

description of press used at New Harmony 384 

editorial method in New Harmony Gazette office 381, 385, 399 

exchange of New Harmony Gazette 384, 395 

list of papers in Indiana in 1818 105 

offer of editorship of New Harmony Gazette to Wm. Pelham. . 412 
published at Brookville, Vevay, Lexington, Corydon and Vin- 

cennes, 1819 232 

published at Vevay, 1828 448 

NINE MILE PRAIRIE, 

small settlement mentioned by Reed 490 

NITRE, 

existence noted by Thomas in 1816 47 

O 
OATH, 

militia officers to suppress duelling 126 

T— 37 



578 Index 

OFFICERS, page 

under constitution of New Harmony community in 1826 409 

OHIO RIVER, 

bottom described by Birkbeek 176 

channel described by Brown in Western Gazetteer 157 

description of bordering lands by Imlay in 1793 9 

description of falls at Jeffersonville 526 

efforts to clear Channel 437 

extending on boundary 472 miles 212, 218 

improvement of falls, described by Brown in Western Gazetteer. 168 

navigation over Falls of the Ohio 30, 31 

value of canals around rapids described by Dana, 1819 207 

water highway from Cincinnati to New Orleans 182-183 

OPOSSUMS, 

described by Thomas in 1818 116 

ORANGE COUNTY, 

described by Brown in Western Gazetteer 158 

ORCHARDS, 

See Fruits. 

at New Harmony 517 

in Wayne county 534 

planted by Rapp at New Harmony 429 

OUITANON, 

a small fort described by Warden 224 

described by travelers 8, 451 

OUITANON INDIANS, 

residence near Fort Ouitanon noted by Hutchins in 1778 8 

OWEN COUNTY, 

organization of churches 479-4S4 

OWEN, ROBERT, 

account of arrival at Baltimore 397 

arrival at New Harmony, January, 1826 405 

character of address on arrival at New Harmony 405 

colony and social system described by Postel 528-529 

by Flint ■ 453 

confidence in his ability evinced by community 393 

departure from Harmony with Rapp in 1825 416 

endorsement of community idea by Hebert 339 

estimate of character by Pelham 407, 409 

explanation of system to members of congress 398 

offer of New Harmony establishment to society 365, 393 

purchaser of New Harmony, and leader of colony 420-436 

story of his colony by a boy educated therein 537-548 

view of society 340 

OWEN, ROBERT DALE, 

account of arrival at Baltimore in 1825 397 

associate of Robert Owen at New Harmony 537 

reading of writings as part of religious service at New Harmony 379 

reorganization of New Harmony School 399 



Index 579 

OWEN, WILLIAM, page 

authorship of articles in New Harmony Gazette 396 

conduct of religious service at New Harmony 383 

description by Pelham in 1S25 * 383 

estimate of ability bv Pelham in 1825 400 

letter to William Pelham in 1825 416 

P 

PANTHER'S CREEK, 

described in Western Gazetteer, 1817 140 

PAOLT, 

described by Dana, 1819 209 

PAORY INDIANS, 

description by Volney in 1804 22 

PARKE, B., 

entertainer of Thomas in 1816 86 

PARROQUET, 

description by Thomas in 1816 45 

destroyers of wheat 59 

favorite residence in French Lick countrv 60 

habits noted by Thomas in 1816 80 

PAWPAW, 

described by Thomas 59, 115 

PEAR LASH, 

use as medicine recommended by Thomas in 1818 123 

PECAN TREES, 

contrasted with other nut bearing trees by Thomas in 1816. ... 91 

described by Thomas 90, 1 15 

existence in Shakertown vicinity noted by Thomas in 1816. ... 73 

PEGG, JAMES, 

mentioned by Forster 268 

PELHAM, WILLIAM, 

becomes member of New Harmony society 373 

description of New Harmony in 1825 378 

employment in New Harmony with public store and newspaper 

372, 377 

invitation to New Harmony in 1825 416 

letters written in 1825 and 1826. . 360 

offer of editorship of New Harmony Gazette .* 412 

plans for publication of New Harmony Gazette 379 

PELHAM, WILLIAM CREESE, 

letter on schools and educational society of New Harmony. . . . 414 

PELICANS, 

existence in Indiana noted by Thomas in 1818 116 

PENNYPACKER, MR., 

mentioned by Duclos as the miller at the Cutt-off 548 

PENROSE, MARK, 

associate of Robert Owen at New Harmony 537 

T-38 



580 Index 

PENSIONS, page 

received by^Indians 249, 253 

PERRY COUNTY, 

described by Brown in Western Gazetteer 163 

PERSIMMON, 

fruit described by Thomas in 1818 115 

PESTALOZZIAN PLAN, 

adoption for school work at New Harmony 411 

PETOKA RIVER, 

See Potoka River. 

PETRIFACTIONS, 

existence in country between Ohio and Wabash rivers 134 

existence noted at Vincennes by Thomas in 1816 68 

PHIQUEPAL, PROF., 

teacher at New Harmony 407-414 

PHYSICIANS, 

number at Vincennes in 1816 102 

PIGEONS, 

countless numbers found in Indiana 456 

deadening trees at roosting place 521 

description of flight by Hebert in 1825 337 

massacre described at roosts by Thomas in 1816 49 

PINE CREEK, 

described in Western Gazetteer, 1817 140 

PISGAH CHURCH, 

near Madison, 1818 494 

PITTSBURGH, 

source of supplies of dry goods, hardware, etc., 1818 196 

PLAIN DEALER, 

published at Brookville in 1818 105 

PLANTS, 

See Botanical Characteristics. 

POMME RIVER, 

described in Western Gazetteer, 1817 139 

POPULATION, 

in 1826^iven by Flint 440 

of Indiana in 1828 given by Flint 443 

given by Postel in 1828 524 

increase from 1818 to 1826 499 

of counties in 1815 147 7^ 

of Indiana, 1817 168 

in 1818 • • 191 

of thirteen counties in 1810. . onnloni 

rapid increase, given by counties 200-201 

PORCUPINES, 

existence in Indiana noted by Thomas in 1818 lib 

PORK, . in „ 

prices paid at Vincennes in 1816 •• 1U ^> 



Index 581 

PORTAGES, page 

between different rivers in northern Indiana, used by French and 

Indians 193-194 

between rivers in Indiana, 1817 165-67 

letter by Capt. James Riley concerning possibility of canals be- 
tween Wabash and Miami 241-242 

POSEY COUNTY, 

described by Brown in Western Gazetteer 163 

POST VINCIENT, 

location described by Hutchins in 1778 8 

POST OUIATANON, 

described by Hutchins in 1778 8 

POST ST. VINCENT, 

location noted by Imlay in 1793 9 

POSTAGE, 

614 to 25 cents in Spanish coin 535 

POSTEL, KARL, 

biographical sketch 522 

POTATOES, 

adaptability of soil in lower Wabash Valley for growth 72 

prices paid at Vincennes in 1816 103 

POTOKA RIVER (OR PETOKA), 

described by travelers 138, 213, 219 

navigability noted by Thomas in 1818 . 128 

POTTER'S CLAY, 

found in abundance 221 

POVERTY, 

of backswoodsmen, described by Mason 236, 237 

PRAIRIE CHICKENS, 

described by Thomas 81, 117 

PRAIRIE SQUIRREL, 

described by Thomas in 1816 78 

PRAIRIE WOLF, 

described by Thomas in 1816 78 

PRAIRIES, 

attractiveness described by Birkbeck 188-189 

described by Dana as river and upland 198 

described by Brown in Western Gazetteer, 1817 142-146 

beauty and fertility described by Flint 444 

observations by Thomas in 1815 on fertility of soil 131 

proper pronunciation of word 135 

theories for existence advanced by Thomas 64, 77, 78 

PRESBYTERIAN EDUCATION SOCIETY, 

formed at Presbytery and later for State, 1818-1826 502 



582 Index 

PRESBYTERIANS, page 

at Vincennes mentioned by Forster 257 

church at New Albany, 1818 468, 473 

church at Vincennes 485 

churches in Indiana 1818 481-505 

fifty churches existing in Indiana in 1827 503 

Ministers 476, 487, 488, 493, 495, 496, 502 

Salem Presbytery formed in 1823 . 486 

send missionaries Isaac Reed and William W. Martin through- 
out Indiana 463-505 

PRICES, 

See Food. 

of food stuffs in 1817 146 

of lands, animals and food stuffs in 1817 231 

of public lands 130, 161 

PRINCETON, 

described by travelers 113, 162, 182, 186, 211, 520 

limestone in vicinity 129 

preponderance of Kentuckians noted by Thomas in 1818 113 

PRINCIPAL TOWNS, 

enumerated and described by Reed, 1827 500-501 

PRINTING, 

inconsiderable in the State in 1818 196 

number of offices at Vincennes in 1816 102 

PROCTOR, REV. DAVID C, 

mentioned by Reed, 1822 485 

PRODUCTS, 

See Coal; Minerals. 

cotton 9, 18, 72, 217 

dves 59 

ginseng 149, 222, 251 

grass 35, 446 

grown in the State, 1818 133, 195 

indigo 72 

maple sugar 59 

of Indiana described by Flint 445 

by Postel 523 

tobacco .'.8, 11, 18, 59, 151, 217, 454 

vegetables, grains and fruits described by Dana 200 

PROFANITY, 

of steamboat men in 1825 362 

PRONUNCIATION, 

levee 135 

prairie 135 

Vincennes 135 

Wabash 135 

words in Wabash country 132, 135 

PROPHET, THE, 

assembly of forces noted by Melish 32 



Index 583 

PUBLIC LANDS, page 

belonging to United States near Fort Wayne, 1820 251 

dissatisfaction with privileges granted Canadian volunteers .... 79 

French grants 77 

in Indiana sold by Indians to United States 233 

land officers at Vincennes in 1816 83 

open to settlement 1819 and 1820 . 237, 242 

prices and sales described by Brown in Western Gazetteer 161 

prices in Wabash Valley in 1818 130 

titles in New Purchase in 1816 88 

title of French settlers confirmed by United States 101 

PUBLICATIONS, 

religious books by Isaac Reed, 1825 488 

PUTAWATOMY INDIANS, 

in western Indiana 145 

PUTNAM COUNTY, 

Presbyterian church organized, 1825 488-489 

PYANKISHAW INDIANS, 

description by Volney in 1804 . 22 

residence near Fort Ouiatanon noted by Hutchins in 1778 8 

Q 

QUAKERS, 

See Society of Friends. 

QUARRIES, 

described by Brown in Western Gazetteer . 146 

whetstone quarry in French Lick vicinity noted by Thomas in 

1816 60 

R 
RABBITS, 

brown rabbit noted by Thomas in 1816 . . . .* 79 

RAISIN RIVER, 

described in Western Gazetteer, 1817 140 

RAPP, GEORGE, 

work at Harmony commented upon by Cobbett, 1828 515-520 

RAPP SOCIETY, 

See Harmony Colony. 

REDWOOD CREEK, 

described in Western Gazetteer, 1817 140 

REED CANE, 

grown in southern Indiana 446 

REED, ISAAC, 

biographical sketch 463 

REFORMED PRESBYTERY OR COVENANTERS, 

two or three societies existing in Indiana in 1827 503 

REGISTRATION, 

of applicants for membership in New Harmony community .... 672 



584 Index 

REJOICING RIVER, page 

described in Western Gazetteer, 1817 138 

RELIGION, 

Baptists prevailing sect, number of churches 232 

conditions described by missionary Isaac Reed 463-605 

conditions described by William Forster of the Society of 

Friends . .256-67 

conditions in New Albany in 1818 480 

different sects represented in Indiana. 1826 497, 503 

lack of it, reason for separation of No. 2 colony from Robert 

Owen's society at New Harmony 428-429 

religious disputations at New Harmony 370 

tolerance of beliefs at New Harmony 378 

RELIGIOUS LIBERTY, 

insisted upon in Robert Owen's colony at New Harmony 420 

RELIGIOUS OBSERVANCE, 

See Sabbath Observance. 
form of service of Rev. Jennings at New Harmony 379 

RELIGIOUS SERVICES. 

held at Mount Vernon 437 

itinerant preachers at New Harmony 380 

RELIGIOUS SOCIETIES, 

See Churches. 
RICE, 

adaptability of soil to cultivation of mountain rice 81 

RICHARD'S CREEK, 

described in Western Gazetteer, 1817 139 

RICHMOND, 

described by Forster, 1822 268 

RILEY, CAPT. JAMES, 

letter to Corydon Gazette describing topographical conditions 
in Indiana 241-243 

RISING SUN, 

described by travelers 42, 148, 204, 448 

RIVER PRAIRIES, 

described by Brown in Western Gazetteer, 1817 142 

RIVERS, 

described by travelers 136-141, 212-215, 217-220 ,239-40 

effect of clearing ground on size, in recollections of Coffin 533 

Ohio, Wabash, Illinois and Maumee given by Darby 192-193 

ROADS, 

corduroy, described by Bernhard 419 

leading from Vincennes 232 

provisions for improvements 460 

ROBINS, 

existence noted by Thomas in 1818 117 



Index 585 

ROCKY RIVER, page 

described by travelers 139. 214. 219 

ROMAN CATHOLICS, 

one church existing in Indiana in 1827 503 

S 
SABBATH OBSERVANCE, 

at New Harmony 431 

at Presbyteries, Camp-Meetings or Conferences, 1827 505 

at Terre Haute in 1826 493 

at Vincennes in 1818 106 

described by Reed 464-472 

in Robert Owen's colony at New Harmony 453, 515, 529 

lax in neighborhoods without churches 534 

parade and drill of New Harmony militia 399 

SABBATH SCHOOL SOCIETY, 

organized in 1825 and called State Union Society 502 

ST. JOSEPH'S OF LAKE MICHIGAN, 

described by travelers 140, 215, 220 

ST. JOSEPH'S OF THE MIAMI, 

described by travelers 220 

ST. JOSEPH'S RIVER, 

described by travelers 140, 241 

ST. MARIE RIVER, 

described in Western Gazetteer, 1817 139 

ST. MARY'S RIVER, 

described by travelers 247, 252 

possibility of canal to Wabash River 242 

ST. VINCENNES, 

described by Cutler in 1812 38 

SAISTARE, MISS LUCIA, 

associate of Robert Owen at New Harmony 432 

SALEM, 

described by travelers 52, 158, 209, 451 

SALEM PRESBYTERY, 

formed for Indiana, 1823 486 

SALISBURY, 

described by travelers 154, 202 

SALIVATION, 

of horses by eating grasses and plants 58 

SALT, 

existence at French Lick noted by Thomas in 1816 60 

manufacture at New Lexington in 1816 49 

mines described by Brown in Western Gazetteer 147 

prices at Vincennes in 1816 103 

SALT-PETRE, 

found in great quantities in a cave in southern Indiana 

197, 222, 457-460 



586 Index 

SALT SPRINGS, page 

found on Wabash River and Salina creek 222 

in Jefferson County, 1817 156 

location in Paoli neighborhood noted by Thomas in 1816 57 

location noted by Cutler in 1812 38 

existence in Wabash country noted by Ashe in 1808 28 

existence noticed by Hutchins in 1778 8 

SALUTATIONS, 

"stranger" common form noted by Thomas in 1816 66 

SARSAPARILLA, 

grown near Fort Wayne 251 

SAWKIE INDIANS, 

description by Volney in 1804 22 

SAY, THOMAS, 

associate of Robert Owen at New Harmony . . . 407, 426, 537, 546, 547 

marriage and removal from New Harmony 4"16 

SCHNEE, MR., 

associate of Robert Owen at New Harmony 528 

SCHOOL OF INDUSTRY, 

taught by Maclure and Madam Fretageot at New Harmony . . . 544 

SCHOOLS, 

See Academies; Education. 

adoption of Pestalozzian method at New Harmony 411 

at Vincennes in 1818 105 

by Society of Friends at Fort St. Mary's 253 

common schools taught by men, 1827 501 

established very early in each settlement 460 

few and without system, according to recollections of Coffin . . . 534 

few public schools, many private, 1818 195 

for Indians at Fort Wayne, 1820 250 

instructors brought by Mr. Owen to New Harmony in 1826 .... 407 

letter of William Creese Pelham on New Harmony schools .... 414 

reorganization by Robert Dale Owen at New Harmony 399 

SCOTT, REV. S. T., 

Presbyterian pastor at Vincennes about 1825 496 

SCRIBNER, JOEL, 

of New Albany, mentioned by Mr. Reed 468, 478 

SEARLE, THOMAS C, 

of Madison, mentioned by Reed 477 

Presbyterian pastor at Madison, 1819 495 • 

SETTLERS, 

See Emigrants. 

characteristics outlined by Birkbeck 184-185 

French and Indians at Vincennes, 1817 160 

in Indiana, described by Birkbeck, 1818 176 

SHAKERS, 

appearance in New Harmony community 397 

characteristics noted by Thomas in 1816 72 

one church existing in Indiana in 1827 503 

reflections of Thomas in 1816 on principles of society 71 

settlers at Shakertown on the Wabash 451 



Index 587 

SHAKERTOWN, PAGE 

described by travelers, 71 451 

SHANESVILLE, 

described by Teas 252 254 

SHAWANOESE INDIANS, 

in western Indiana I45 

SHEEP, 

attempts to raise merino sheep described by Birkbeck 175 

raised at New Harmony * 5^7 

SHELBY RAVEN, 

Lewis's Tavern described by Eorster 256 

SHIPPINGPORT, 

described by Cobbett, 1828 509 

effect of drouth on skipping [ 235 

SILVER, 

found near Ouitanon 28, 38, 221 

SISTAIRE, LUCY, 

associate of Robert Owen at New Harmony 537 

SKUNKS, 

existence in Indiana noted by Thomas in 1818 116 

SLAVERY, 

at Vincennes mentioned by Forster 257 

condition as noted by Thomas in 1816 '.'.','.'. 85 

discussion of its incorporation into state government 440 

mentioned by Mackenzie 245 

number of slaves in territory noted by Melish in 1806-i8li 34 

prices of slaves in Louisville in 1806-1811 29 

SMALL-POX, 

means used for its extermination 188 

SMITH, REV. DANIEL, 

of Jeff ersonville, mentioned by Reed 477 

SNAKES, 

at New Harmony 430 

common in wooded lands 223 

described by Brown in Western Gazetteer .146, 170 

in Orange County 158 

kinds noted by Thomas in 1816 82 

poisonous and others found 53, 456 

SNOW, 

depth at Vincennes in seasons prior to 1818 108 

sleighing season noted by Thomas in southern Indiana in 1816- 

1818 110 

SOCIETY, 

attempt to unify all classes at New Harmony. 431 

conditions described by Birkbeck, 1818 188-189 

impressions of Ashe in 1804 26 

impressions of Volney in 1804 17 

impressions of Melish, 1806-1811 .' 29 

manners and character in 1819 described by Warden 232 

promulgated by Robert Owen at New Harmony 420 



588 Index 

SOCIETY OF FRIENDS, page 

customary to open a "Friend's School" at all meeting places. . . 534 

immunity from violence at hands of Indians 54 

monthly meetings in vicinity of Paoli 54 

numerous in Wayne County 532 

owner of grist mill at Fort St. Mary's 253 

settlement near Salem noted by Thomas in 1816 53 

several societies existing in Indiana in 1827 503 

woman preacher at New Albany, 1828 521 

work of minister William Forster through Indiana, 1821 256-267 

SOIL, 

around Fort Wayne described bv Capt. James Rilev 243 

described by travelers " . 18, 32, 144-47, 236 

fertility indicated by denseness of Indian population in early 

days .•;•••; •. 455 

nature of soil in Vincennes vicinity noted by Thomas in 1816. . 68 

of southern Indiana, given by Warden 216 

of the praries unusually fertile 198-200 

views on fertility by Thomas in 1818 130 

SPEAKMAN, MR., 

associate of Robert Owen at New Harmony 537 

SPRING CPEEK PRAIRIE, 

described by Thomas in 1816 96 

SPRINGFIELD, 

described by Bernhard 419 

SPRINGS, 

See Salt Springs. 

chalybeate 221 

Half-moon spring 57 

in southern Indiana, large enough for water power 197 

medicinal 157 

sulphur 60 

SQUIRRELS, 

varieties noted by Thomas in 1816 78 

SIAGE COACHES, 

made without doors in 1827 506 

STALAGMITES, 

existence in country between Ohio and Wabash river 134 

STATE SEMINARY, 

located at Bloomington, taught by a Presbyterian minister, 1827. 501 

STATE UNION SOCIETY, 

organized in 1825 for promoting Sabbath Schools 502 

STATES, 

boundary suggestion by Imlay in 1793 9 

STEAM MILLS, 

at New Harmony 517-518 

at Vincennes, 1818. 184 

erection at Vincennes in 1816 ' 106 

in Robert Owen's society at New Harmony 425 



Index 589 

STEAMBOATS, page 

description of Ohio river boats in 1825 361 

dimensions of largest in world in 1819 at Shipping Port 235 

navigation of Wabash forecast by Thomas in 1818 112 

on the Ohio River, passenger tariff, 1828 510 

STEEPLE HOUSE, 

meeting place in New Harmony 404, 405, 408 

STONE, 

See Quarries. 

found in Jefferson County, 1817 156 

unusual formation purchased by Mr. Rapp and placed at New 
Harmony 426-427 

STRAWBERRIES, 

growth in country above Ft. Harrison noted by Thomas in 1816. 98 
ripening season in Vincennes region noted by Thomas in 1818. . 108 

SUBTERRANEAN STREAMS, 

existence and characteristics noted by Thomas in 1816 55 

in Orange county 197 

SUGAR, 

adaptability of country for raising and manufacture noted by 

Imlay in 1793 10 

prices at Vincennes in 1816 103 

SULPHUR SPRINGS, 

existence in French Lick neighborhood noted by Thomas in 
1816 60 

SUNDAY SCHOOLS, 

first one formed at New Albany, 1818 474 

SWAMPS, 

near Wabash River need drainage 511 

possibility of affording water power 242 

SWANS, 

existence in Indiana noted by Thomas in 1818 Ho 

SWEET POTATOES, 

adaptability of soil in lower Wabash country for growth 72 

SWISS COLONY, 

at New Switzerland, described by Brown in Western Gazetteer. 154-5 
at Vevay , grape growers 448, 508 

SWITZERLAND COUNTY, 

described by Brown in Western Gazetteer 154 

T 

TANNER'S CREEK, 

described in Western Gazetteer, 1817 136 

TANNERIES, 

business at Vincennes in 1816 10^ 



590 Index 

TAVERNS, page 

at New Harmony, 1828 515 

at Shelby Raven described by Forster 256 

Clark's Hotel at Vincennes recommended by Atwater 530 

criticism on uncleanliness by Thomas in 1816 43 

Hawkins', described by Birkbeck 178 

in New Harmony, described by Bernhard 419 

Jenkins's at New Albany, makes exorbitant charge, 1828 521 

Judge Chamber's 521 

number and rates at Vincennes in 1816 102, 103 

Pumpkin Vine keeper at New Harmony 402 

rates and customs at New Harmony in 1825 386, 404 

TEA, 

growth noted by Thomas in 1816 94 

prices at Vincennes in 1816 103 

TEA KETTLE BRANCH OF WHITE RIVER, 

described in Western Gazetteer, 1817 138 

TEAS, THOMAS SCATTERGOOD, 

biographical sketch 246 

TERRE HAUTE, 

described by travelers 211, 451 

establishment described by Brown in Western Gazetteer 161 

Presbyterian church visited by Isaac Reed, 1824 487 

TERRE HAUTE PRAIRIE, 

described by Thomas in 1816 94 

THEAKAKI RIVER, 

described in Western Gazetteer, 1817 141 

THERMOMETER, 

register at Vincennes, 1816-1818 107 

THOMAS, DAVID, 

travels in Indiana country in 1816 42 

TIEBOUT, CORNELIUS, 

associate of Robert Owen at New Harmony 537, 546 

TIPPECANOE RIVER, 

described in Western Gazetteer, 1817 32, 139, 214, 220, 244 

TOBACCO, 

adaptability of soil to raising noted by Hutchins in 1778 8 

adaptability of soil to growth noted by Imlay in 1793 11 

crops described by Brown in Western Gazetteer 151 

culture by Lindley noted by Thomas in 1816 59 

grown at Brookville 454 

growth in Vincennes settlement noted by Volney in 1804 18 

produced in southern Indiana 217 

TODD, REV., 

mentioned by Reed 468 

TOPOGRAPHY, 

along the Ohio River described by Dana, 1819 208, 210 

as given by Dana 198-199 

country from Knobs to east branch of White river 134 

Indiana country in letter by soldier in Indiana campaign of 1791. 15 



Index 591 

TOPOGRAPHY— Continued. page 

Indiana country by Bradbury in 1809-1811 35 

of Indiana described by travelers 7, 9, 17, 

25, 29, 37, 141-146, 194, 216, 244, 245, 328, 439, 443-62, 497, 523 

of lands in southern Indiana described by John Vawter 239 

similarity to Tartary noted by Volney 17 

TOWNS, 

beginnings and origin of names 183 

in the State described briefly by Darby, 1818 194-195 

sameness of names noted by Thomas in 1818 125 

TRADE, 

at stores and by traders 182-183 

described by travelers 245, 251 

flat boat trade with New Orleans, 1806-1811 33 

forms of barter at New Harmony in 1825 371 

fur trade 8 

hampered by lack of water communication, according to Postel 

; 523-524 

money only accepted at Vincennes 102 

trading with Canada, the East and New Orleans 231 

TRANSPORTATION, 

methods noted by Hutchins in 1778 8 

methods noted by Imlay in 1793 11 

Ohio river passenger rates in 1825 368 

in 1826 412 

rates to Vincennes in 1816 103 

river transportation between Detroit and Wabash country 28 

TRAVEL, 

by blazed trails difficult, 1828 514 

difficulties encountered in the backwoods 187, 262, 263 

horseback, and over poor roads, in recollections of Coffin 534 

in Indiana in 1827 rough and without conveniences 506 

necessity of attention to feet of horses 52 

TREATY OF GREENVILLE, 

making peace with Indians 461 

purchase of lands in Indiana from Indians 233 

TREES, 

described by Brown in Western Gazetteer 150 

enumerated trees described by Warden 222 

found in Indiana, described by Postel 523 

helianthus 133 

in Orange County 158 

in southern Indiana described by John Vawter 239-240 

kinds found in Ohio Valley noted by Thomas in 1816 43 

in Paoli neighborhood in 1816 59 

in Wabash country in 1778 7 

near Fort Wayne 251 

paw paw 59, 115 

pecans 73, 90, 91, 115 



persimmon. 



115 



pine and cedar in Wabash country 114 

use and abuse of forests in early days 533 

TRIALS, 

default of justice in criminal trials described by Postel, 1828 . . . 52o 



592 Index 

TRIMBLE, REV. JOSEPH, page 

Presbyterian missionary at Madison from General Assembly, 
1823 496 

TROOST, DR.GERARD, 

eminent naturalist and associate of Robert Owen at New Har- 
mony 407, 436, 537 

TROY, 

described by Postel 527 

TRUMPET FLOWERS, 

indigenous growth noted by Thomas in 1816 63, 69 

TUMULI, 

» See Indian Mounds. 

U 
UNITED STATES LAND OFFICE, 

See Public Lands. 
at Vincennes 159 

UPLAND PRAIRIES, 

described by Brown in Western Gazetteer, 1817 142 

V 
VAWTER, JOHN, 

letter to Corydon Gazette describing topographical conditions 
in Indiana 239 

VEGETABLES, 

grown at New Harmony 336, 434, 514 

VENOGE RIVER, 

described in Western Gazetteer, 1817 137 

named from a river in Switzerland 449 

VERMILLION COUNTY, 

Presbyterian church organized in 1826 492 

VEVAY, 

location noted by Thomas in 1816 46 

place of publication of Indiana Register 105 

Swiss colony described by travelers 155, 205, 224, 441, 448, 522 

vineyards described by Cobbett, 1828 508 

VIGO, COL., 

part in capture of Vincennes by Clark 101 

VILLAGES, 

Browston, Brownstown, Charleston, Fredonia, Hanover, Hart- 
ford, Leavenworth, Leavenworthville, Mount Sterling, New 
Lexington, New London, Paoli, Princeton, Rockport, Salem, 
Salisbury, Shakertown, Washington and Wilmington, de- 
scribed by travelers 205, 206, 210-12, 450, 454 



Index 593 

VINCENNES, page 

academy described by Thomas in 1818 105 

banks in 1818 105 

business habits in 1818 106 

churches in 1818 105 

described by Flint as next to the oldest city of the west 451 

described by travelers .. 19, 32, 67, 106, 159, 211, 224, 245, 440, 530 

distances from important points 106 

enumeration of lines of business in 1816 102 

erection of steam grist and saw mill in 1818 106 

freight rates to Vincennes in 1816 103 

health conditions, surroundings and inhabitants 180-182, 184 

irregularities in the sale of public lands at the land office 187 

library in 1818 105 

list of newspapers in 1818 105 

list of plants in neighborhood by Thomas in 1818 126 

location and description 106 

longevity of inhabitants noted by Thomas in 1818 113 

market prices for grain, meats and goods in 1816 103 

named in honor of Capt. St. Vincent 101 

natural advantage 194-195 

nature of crops in vicinity noted by Volney in 1804 18 

number of schools in 1818 105 

part in American capture taken by Vigo 101 

population in 1818 106 

Presbyterian church visited by Isaac Reed 485 

proper pronunciation of name 135 

religious conditions described by Forster 257 

settlement dated at 1702 by Flint 461 

successor of Indian town of Cippecaughke 101 

surroundings described by Thomas in 1816 66 

tavern prices in 1816 103 

uncertainty as to first settlement 101 

views on future of town by Thomas in 1816 67 

VINEYARDS, 

at New Harmony 517 

grown by Swiss colony at Vevay 508 

Harmony colony vineyards described by Hebert in 1825 336 

VOLNEY, CONSTANTIN FRANCOIS, 

topographical description of Indian country in 1804 17 

views as to Knobs in geological history 50 

VON SCHOOT, MR., 

hermit living near New Harmony 431 

W 
WABASH, 

proper pronunciation noted by Thomas in 1818 135 

WABASH PRESBYTERY, 

formed in 1825 496 

WABASH RIVER, 

described by travelers 

7, 9, 18, 27, 32, 37, 137. 213, 218, 242, 244, 258, 383, 418, 440 

description of country traversed by soldiers in Indian campaign 

of 1791 16 

improvement of falls, described by Brown in Western Gazetteer. 168 

list of plants in valley catalogued by Thomas in 1818 126 

navigation possibilities noted by Thomas in 1818 112 

quality of water noted by Thomas in 1818 112 

tendency to overflow 115 



594 Index 

WAGES, page 

amount allowed in New Harmony •community 389 

WAR, 

reflections on devastating influence by Thomas in 1816 83 

WARD, ALLEN, 

associate of Robert Owen at New Harmony 537 

WARDEN, DAVID BAILLIE, 

biographical sketch 216 

WARWICK COUNTY, 

described by Brown in Western Gazetteer 163 

WASHINGTON, 

described by travelers 210, 256 

WASHINGTON COUNTY, 

described by Brown in Western Gazetteer 158 

WATER, 

See Wells. 

caution about use by Thomas in 1818 122 

caution by Thomas against drinking water saturated with sul- 
phate of lime 123 

filtration of drinking water suggested by Thomas in 1818 122 

on prairies, bad 247 

quality in Wabash river 112 

scarcity described by Teas 251-252 

springs and wells abundant 497 

WAYNE, GENERAL ANTHONY, 

tribute by Capt. James Riley 241 

WAYNE COUNTY, 

described by Brown in Western Gazetteer 154 

recollections of Coffin 532 

WEAWS, 

in western Indiana 22, 145 

Indian battle in 1791 12 

WEBSTER, MR., 

of Jefferson ville, mentioned by Mr. Reed 468 

WELLS, 

described by travelers 53, 149, 223, 247 

WESTERN GAZETTEER, 

emigrants' guide, by Samuel R. Brown 136-170 

WESTERN SUN, 

published at Vincennes 105, 160 

WHEAT, 

absence from crops noted by Volney in 1804 18 

adaptability of soil to raising noted by Hutchins in 1778 8 

noted by Imlay in 1793 10 

immense fields harvested by men and women at New Harmony, 

1828 515 

prices at Louisville in 1806-1811 29 

price at Vincennes in 1816 103 

time of harvest in Vincennes region noted by Thomas in 1818. . 108 



Index . 595 

WHETSTONES, page 

existence in French Lick vicinity noted by Thomas in 1816 .... 60 

WHITE RIVER, 

chief tributary of Wabash noted by Melish, 1806-1811 32 

described by Darby as branch of Wabash 192 

described by travelers 18, 138 

forks named and described by travelers 213, 214, 219 

icy condition described by Forster 264 

navigability noted by Thomas in 1818 112 

valley described by Flint 444 

WHITEWATER RIVER, 

described by travelers 140, 212, 220 

mentioned by Forster as a meeting place 268 

WILD ANIMALS, 

See Game. 

deer in early Indiana times 79 

elk 79, 116 

gophers 65 

injurious to grains 230 

kinds noted by Thomas in 1818 116 

opossums 116 

porcupines 116 

prairie wolf described by Thomas in 1816 78, 223 

rabbits 79 

skunks 116 

squirrels 78 

wolves.. 79, 116 

WILD FOWLS, 

kinds noted by Thomas in 1818 117 

WILD FRUITS, 

varieties in Wabash country noted by Thomas in 1818 114 

WILD ROSES, 

described by Thomas in 1816 66 

WILD TURKEYS, 

scarcity noted by Thomas in 1816 81 

WILKINSON, GENERAL, 

destroyed large Indian town, 1791 12, 456 

WILLIAMS, JESSE, 

mentioned by Forster •• • • 267 

WILLIAMSON, REV. ALEXANDER, 

ordained for Presbyterian church as evangelist, 1825 487 

WINE, tt 

adaptability of Wabash country to making noted by Hutchms 

in 1778 8 

made at New Harmony 425 

made in abundance at Vevay 449 

prices at Vincennes in 1816 103 

WOLVES, 

existence in early Indiana times 79 

kinds noted and described by Thomas in 1818 116 



596 Index 

WOOL, PAGE 

attempts to raise merino sheep described by Birkbeck 175 

WYANDOT CREEK, 

described in Western Gazetteer, 1817 137 

Y 
YELLOW-BANK CREEK, 

location noted by Ashe in 1808 27 

YOUNG, JOHN, 

Persby terian missionary died at Vincennes, 1825 489 



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